That Susana Balbo has been a pioneering force in Argentine (and South American) wine goes without saying.

Her talent as a winemaker, entrepreneurial spirit, resilience in the face of many challenges and the way in which she has reframed the possibilities for women in the wine industry make her one of the sector’s most respected names.

Which explains her worthy inclusion in Decanter’s Hall of Fame in 2024.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Susana Balbo’s eight vintages of Signature White Blend

Landmark year

Serendipitously – and rather symbolically – the bestowment of Decanter’s lifetime achievement award coincided with the 25th anniversary of Balbo’s eponymous project, founded in 1999 as Dominio del Plata. Her winery and range now bear her name – appropriately, for hers are wines with a very personal imprint.

Beyond the Hall of Fame recognition, the quarter-century anniversary was marked by the release of a special library edition of Cabernet Sauvignon from the flagship Nosotros range.

However, rather than merely celebrating her achievements, Balbo used the landmark year to consider the evolution of one of her now best-known – and itself pioneering – wines, the Signature White Blend.

A vertical tasting of all vintages since the inaugural 2016 provided an opportunity to consider the wine’s evolution and potential, as well as its meaning for South American wine more broadly.

Indeed, if South America has now firmly established itself as a safe source of fine red wine – of consistent quality, expressiveness and collectability – the full potential for premium whites is yet to be fully unleashed. But a revolution is afoot, with Balbo’s Signature White Blend a strong step forward – for the path it has opened and questions it has raised.

Balbo herself recognises that the Signature White Blend is a work in progress; a journey of learning – as ever – and discovery that shows a humble recognition of work yet to be done.

Embracing the challenge

The genesis of a Bordeaux-inspired white blend was a visit by Tim Atkin MW to Balbo’s winery in Mendoza.

‘Chatting to Susana Balbo one day, I bemoaned the relative shortage of good white blends in Argentina,’ explains Atkin.

Wouldn’t there be potential to produce an age-worthy wine, Argentine in its essence, to rival the world’s best whites and match the country’s great reds? ‘So a week later, we sat down with a Sémillon from Mendel, a Sauvignon Blanc from Giuseppe Franceschini and her own Torrontés and played with some components for fun.’

Not one to shy away from a good challenge and always driven by great curiosity (creative as well as technical) Balbo set out to add the experiment to her aptly-named Signature range.

‘Little did I imagine that she would go ahead and make a wine based on our cuvée. Not only that, she improved on it,’ Atkin continues.

Queen of Torrontés – and much more

Having started her career in the cradle of Torrontés Riojano, in Cafayate (Salta), and often referred to as the ‘Queen’ of Argentina’s flagship white variety (see latest releases of her Signature Barrel Fermented and Late Harvest iterations for proof), Balbo was well placed to make the best of the variety’s aromatic and textural potential, alongside classical French counterparts.

Balbo says that blending is the winemaker’s greatest skill; the ability to produce something that is more than the sum of its parts. The signature White Blend indeed shows how Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon can work to each other’s benefit: the florality of Torrontés outlined by Sauvignon’s herbaceousness; the woolly weight of Sémillon (especially with some years in bottle) lifted by the aromatic vividness of its counterparts; the zesty scalpel of Sauvignon softened by the barrel-aged Torrontés and unctuous Sémillon.

‘Textural’ is a word often used to describe this wine. Texture is indeed central to the identity of the wine, a product of multiple, complementary factors. The Sémillon and Sauvignon grapes undergo pre-fermentative maceration; Sauvignon and Torrontés are fermented in oak, where they are kept on the lees for two months; the final blend ages for up to six months in barrel (60% of which new).

The subtle phenolic grip at the core of this wine is key to its medium-term development, showing particularly well in vintages 2018 to 2020.

Vintages 2016 and 2017, with the weighty, nutty depth of Sémillon emerging more vividly, suggest there’s great potential for this to become a wine designed to be drunk with even more time in bottle.

Leveraging further potential

Which left me wondering whether Balbo is treading too carefully. Could Torrontés be brought to the forefront, especially in vintages where Sauvigon Blanc tends to dominate the aromatic palette and the wine therefore seems a bit more removed from its place? Is there perhaps potential for more ageing in barrel?

Some vintages seem to suggest that the marrying of the blend and the textural potential would benefit from a bit more wood. And moving the dial into slightly more oxidative territory might add an interesting depth of field. If so, more extended macerations might add complexity without loss of elegance.

Such questions would not be asked, however, if the wine did not show, already, the character, poise and evolution potential of a great white. Atkin says that since its first vintage, the Signature White Blend ‘has gone on to become one of South America’s finest and most distinctive whites’.

‘The first one was good, of course, but since then she’s refined the blend and improved the quality. I’m proud to have inspired her to make something so good.’

Curiosity and anticipation is how we’ll wait to see how Balbo takes it further.

Susana Balbo Signature White Blend – all released vintages scored and tasted:

Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. 

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Susana Balbo is a winemaking force of nature. This was confirmed by a recent tasting in London of her premium barrel-fermented Torrontes wines.

Torrontes is one of those grapes which, along with South Africa’s Pinotage, many wine consumers shy away from. Yet Balbo is passionate in her belief that great Torrontes can be made to compete with fine Chardonnay from Burgundy, as well as Gruner Veltliner and Germany’s finest dry Riesling.

Up until now, I would admit to being in the group of wine-drinkers who found Torrontes initially ‘interesting’ and different on the nose; but I would rarely, if ever, go back for a second glass. As a result of Balbo’s groundbreaking work, I am now having to review that stance.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for seven top Susana Balbo Torrontes wines worth seeking out

The Susana Balbo Barrel Fermented Signature Torrontes is a refined, graceful and intriguing wine, with a hint of the vivid florality found in the variety but in a restrained style. The wine is 100% fermented in barrel, but the oak influence manifests itself purely in terms of a creamy, silken texture without adding any of the smoky, orange zest characters often imparted by time in wood. Acidity is precise and focused, with surprising concentration on the palate indicating that these are wines destined for ageing.

Falling for Torrontes

Balbo has many impressive entries on her winemaking CV. In 1981 she became Argentina’s first female oenologist (finishing top of the class) and proceeded to make an impact in what, at the time, was a hugely male-dominated industry. After struggling to find work in her home of Mendoza, Balbo accepted a job at Michel Torino in Cafayate, where she stayed for almost a decade.

It was at Cafayate where Balbo became intrigued by the Torrontes grape. ‘Torrontes from Cafayate is totally different to that at Finca Paraje Altamira’, explains Balbo, referring to the sub-region of Uco Valley.

‘Cafayate has a sub-tropical climate with the harvest normally taking place in mid-March, but the warmth is balanced by altitude, with vines planted between 1,600-2,700m,’ she continues.

Going solo

Moving back to Mendoza in 1990, Balbo spent several years consulting in Europe before returning to work at Catena Zapata. There she oversaw the construction of Catena’s iconic winery and married general manager Pedro Marchevsky.

The couple founded Dominio del Plata in 1999 in Lujàn de Cuyo, with Balbo initially focused on producing high-quality Cabernet – still very much a love of hers today. She divorced several years later and finally bought-out Marchevsky in 2012, before renaming the business Susana Balbo Wines.

In addition to her work in the winery, Balbo has been president of Wines of Argentina three times, as well as spending some time in politics. She has also become a figurehead for female empowerment across the country. She has been a driving force for sustainability whilst championing an organic approach to wine production.

New horizons

Having successfully established Susana Balbo Wines, Balbo decided to focus on additional projects – with a strong desire to show the potential of the Torrontes grape. She obtained cuttings from the best vineyards in Cafayate in 2003, planting a new vineyard in 2005 in Altamira.

Balbo notes: ‘Altamira is the same latitude as Bordeaux. The soils are limestone/calcareous and temperatures are on average 20-22℃. As a result, harvest here is usually at least a month behind Cafayate.’

Finca Paraja Altamira – the source of the Barrel Fermented Signature Torrontes – is planted at 1,150m and lies 128km south of Mendoza. The soils here are poor in organic content and free-draining. Sandy loam soil is interspersed with calcium carbonate deposits and colluvial stones of varying sizes.

Balbo explains that a key part of the philosophy behind making barrel-fermented Torrontes was driven by her own palate, which is particularly sensitive to bitter notes. ‘The extreme climate of Cafayate increases the bitterness in the grape,’ she says.

Barrel philosophy

Although Balbo knew that fermentation in oak would be a way to enhance texture and complexity, she was concerned that traditionally produced barrels would add additional levels of bitter, burnt characters to her wines.

The groundbreaking answer came when Balbo attended an Australian Wine Research Institute conference in the mid-1990s. One of the papers discussed treating wooden staves with extremely hot air (close to 200℃) as an alternative to using fire in the production of top-quality barrels. Balbo returned enthused, persuading a close friend who ran a Chilean cooperage to introduce this new technology to South America.

Despite being fermented in new 500-litre French barrels, there is virtually no discernible oak flavour in any of the Torrontes vintages. The palate feel is rounded and soft, with a beautifully silken texture. The wines bear a lot of similarities to top Rhône valley whites, but without the evident oak notes.

Balbo’s barrel-fermented Torrontes is certainly the finest example of the grape I have tasted. But there is an even more exciting project looming, from vines planted at the extreme limits of viticultural production in Gualtallary. This small-production Torrontes (known simply as Blanco de Gualtallary) may reach the UK in the autumn and will turn heads – partly for its high retail price but, more importantly, for the way it has elevated Torrontes to new heights.

Susana Balbo Torrontes: seven wines to try

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Pablo Rivero is the sommelier and owner behind award-winning Parrilla Don Julio steakhouse in Buenos Aires. He was named Latin America’s Best Sommelier 2022 in the inaugural prize by the World’s 50 Best in November 2022.

‘Like many Argentines, I have family in Mendoza, so wine was always on the table, at lunchtime and over dinner, at home.’

‘When I started working at Parrilla Don Julio as a 20-year-old, I fell in love with the ageing and cellaring of wines, processes that would transform them into something better: I love playing with the effects of time. And, as soon as sommellerie became a career option, I was part of the first class to study at the Escuela Argentina de Vinos in 2002.’

‘My earliest drinking memory is my grandfather giving me a glass of wine and soda to try, and watching him squirt the fizzy water into the glass. I’d watch those hypnotic and tempting bubbles and always remember that beautiful intense red colour.’ 

‘It’s an incredibly joyful moment for Argentine wine to have one of its own named the first Latin America’s Best Sommelier 2022 by the World’s 50 Best. While I’m the face of a large team, there are eight sommeliers as well as numerous wait staff without whom there would be little success. It’s hugely satisfying because it validates all the important work we do in the salon and it also serves as recognition of Argentine wine, which is precisely what our work is based upon and it’s wonderful to know that our efforts are worthy of this prize.’

‘Three memorable vintages are the 1959 Trapiche Broquel from Agrelo in Luján de Cuyo, a red made in a gigantic 70,000-litre oak foudre. It’s highly complex, with oxidative ageing and veil of flor; it still has plenty of life in it.’ 

‘Then there’s the Bodega Tupungato Gruta Azul 1969; it was the first wine to name the Tupungato district on a label, although the winery doesn’t exist any more.’

‘As for contemporary vintages, I’m really thrilled by Per Se La Craie 2019 by Edgardo del Pópolo and David Bonomi, which comes from Gualtallary. This Uco Valley region is the one that excites me the most right now, especially the wines coming out of El Monasterio and La Cautiva.’

‘At home I enjoy opening Criollas, Moscatels and Patagonian Pinot Noir, as well as Pinot Noir from other cool climates. I tend to go for lighter, more simple reds at home with my family and friends.’

‘Recommending wines to guests at Don Julio is the most entertaining part of my work. We pay attention to what a guest is after, through their words and gestures, and combine that with what they are going to order. We decipher what they want, consider the possibilities we have in the cellar, and return to the guests with their desire in a bottle or glass. That game, the back and forth, the decoding, the vertigo that each situation brings and whether we can satisfy it, is the most beautiful aspect of our profession, and I love it.’ 

‘One pairing I always enjoy is skin-contact Torrontés with a really medium-rare bife de cuadril (rump steak). It’s a lean and tasty cut, and is simply perfect with the grip this particular style has. I have a lot of fun with it.’

‘To ensure that our hospitality at Don Julio is always fantastic, I stick to three rules. The key being love for what we do; the second, collaborating with the guests who come to dine under our roof; and the third is the continual attention we accord every detail.’

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When she graduated as Argentina’s first female oenologist, Susana Balbo set the tone for the trailblazing career that followed. The last four decades have witnessed her propel the industry forward as a three-times president of Wines of Argentina, consult for the biggest names in the business, and build her own eponymous bodega. One of the country’s most respected winemakers, she says: ‘I’m the architect of my own life.’

Winemaking hasn’t been her only focus. In 2015, Balbo neatly sidestepped into politics, tackling territory far removed from barrel tasting at her winery in Agrelo, Mendoza. Today, however, she presides over her family-run bodega, which celebrated its 20th anniversary last December, the inspiration that guides Argentina’s undisputed first lady of wine and ‘Queen of Torrontés’.

The daughter of linen manufacturers from Córdoba who made their home in Guaymallén, wine wasn’t part of Balbo’s world despite growing up in Greater Mendoza. ‘My parents were modest people who sold embroidered tablecloths door to door. It wasn’t until the 1980s, as I was graduating, that they bought a vineyard for my brother as he didn’t want to follow in their footsteps.’

Susana Balbo at a glance

Born Mendoza, 1956

Education Universidad Don Bosco, Mendoza

Career Graduated as Argentina’s first woman oenologist in 1981; three-times Wines of Argentina president; national deputy for Mendoza province; W20 Argentina chair; president of Susana Balbo Wines

Family Children José, 35, and Ana, 33; three grandchildren

Other interests Keen horsewoman and gardener who loves reading and playing with her grandchildren, and practises yoga

Starting out

Undertaking an oenology degree was a process of elimination for the bright 17-year-old, given that Argentina was on the brink of a dictatorship. ‘I wanted to study nuclear physics in Patagonia, but because the social situation was unstable, my parents wouldn’t let me move there – or to San Juan to study chemistry – so I went for oenology.’

The first woman in Argentina ever to graduate in oenology – and at the top of her class – in 1981, she fast encountered hurdles trying to enter the profession. ‘I learned a huge amount as a laboratory head but loved being in the bodega. I wanted to make wine, but as a woman I was only offered lab jobs in Mendoza.’

Following six months of rejections, she then applied for an oenology position requiring three years’ experience and the ability to speak English at Michel Torino in Cafayate; the talented 23-year-old was hired over 86 others. Balbo says: ‘It was a stroke of luck, because I had a great academic record, but certainly couldn’t speak a word of English.’

Filled with youthful enthusiasm, she set off on the 870-mile, one-way journey. ‘Cafayate was a tiny village with a bar, a church – and nothing else. A diesel tank supplied electricity and was switched off at 10pm; phoning Mendoza via an operator took eight hours. It was very basic,’ she says.

Nine years in Cafayate naturally left their mark: on a personal level, she met and married José Lovaglio Saravia and gave birth to her children José and Ana. Professionally, she threw herself into giving Torrontés a serious identity, overhauling it from table wine to a premium product.

‘I was a multi-tasking mum, working 16-hour days. Ana would sleep in a tiny buggy and José in a llama wool blanket; they were always with me,’ she says. ‘Michel Torino was a great learning curve; the days flew by as I was involved in everything, including rebuilding the adobe winery,’ she adds. ‘Torrontés was usually sold in demijohns, but the owner wanted to make high-quality wine and export it. I learned to love it and applied my creativity to make a wine with an international profile. My colleagues called it feminine and not like Torrontés, but it was Cafayate’s first export and served on [former US airline] Pan Am’s first-class menu – a sign that this was the right path.’

Back to her roots

When she returned to Mendoza a decade later, it wasn’t in the blaze of glory one might expect. After Michel Torino was sold, Balbo was owed a year’s salary. Disputes with her brother over the family vineyard led to her walking out – ‘he didn’t respect me as an oenologist’ – then she and José were swindled on a project. ‘We lost almost everything.’

Owning a winery remained a pipe dream, and to stay afloat Balbo began consulting. In characteristic trendsetting style, she was the first Argentinian oenologist to be contracted abroad, working 10 European harvests before becoming a permanent fixture at Catena Zapata, overseeing construction of its pyramid bodega and as exports director; second husband Pedro Marchevsky was general manager. In 1999, she and Marchevsky founded Dominio del Plata together, but their oenological visions clashed – she plumped for quality over quantity, while he wanted to make easy-drinkers.

Going solo ‘By 1999, I really wanted to start my own project so I rented an old winery. Two years later, I bought 22ha in Agrelo due to my desire to make quality wine, plus it was considered the best zone for Cabernet Sauvignon, my favourite red; it was also a hub for prestigious winemakers’ projects. I had the chance to build in El Peral, but it was too far away because I had to do the school run. Agrelo was just nine miles from home and made for a good central grape reception point,’ she says.

Leaving Catena in 2002, when Argentina was in full economic crisis, was a risky decision but, ever the entrepreneur, Balbo threw herself into producing small quantities of the fine wine she’d longed to produce, such as Signature and Nosotros, with Crios launching that same year, drawing on her ingenuity to make her dream a reality. Says daughter Ana: ‘She drew up the blueprints [for the winery] on our kitchen table herself, because there wasn’t enough money to hire an architect.’

Balbo adds: ‘I bought high-quality grapes and started selling 15,000 cases a year. Little by little, I started building – and that was the best thing that could happen. When you have an entrepreneurial spirit, it’s hard to stop.’ After she and Pedro divorced, Balbo acquired the financial backing to buy him out and, by 2012, Dominio del Plata was rebranded Susana Balbo Wines (SBW).

For six years, Balbo lived and breathed every moment at the red-roofed winery. ‘The platforms were close to my bedroom, so the pumps were my lullaby,’ she recalls. It wasn’t until UC Davis graduate José joined in 2011, followed by business administrator Ana a year later, that SBW welcomed the second generation into the fold. Balbo adds: ‘I never pressured them to do so, but it was a great source of pride when my children joined the company.’ Edgardo Del Popolo arrived as general manager in 2013, and today more than 100 people are employed across the winery, vineyards and restaurants.

‘It was initially hard to separate the roles of boss and mother, so I brought in Edy as a buffer. Family businesses aren’t always easy to run – and family is the most important thing to me – but working together is fantastic. We’re a team and everyone has their own project: José heads exports and manages the La Carrera vineyard, while Ana is head of marketing and brilliant at hospitality.’

Global stage

In 2006, Balbo was elected president of Wines of Argentina for the first of three terms, and she set about helping Argentina to make a name for itself. ‘A 2004 export market study showed we were the fifth-largest producer, yet sold 95% domestically. As we didn’t exist in foreign consumers’ minds, we could create a unique character on the world stage.

‘It was also essential to show buyers our riches and let them fall in love with our pure skies, crystal water and beautiful vineyards; and we invented Malbec World Day.’ It paid off: in 2019, exports were 26.5%, according to the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (INV).

Stepping aside from winemaking in 2015 to sit as a national deputy in the lower house of the Argentine National Congress for one term, Balbo also chaired Argentina’s W20 group focusing on female empowerment. ‘I got involved in politics to give something back to society and help create a better country so my grandchildren don’t feel they have to migrate for work. But I found it hard to make changes.’

A slew of honours have been bestowed upon her over the past few years, including the BRAVO Lifetime Achievement Award (honouring her work to propel Latin America onto a global stage), but gongs also embrace winery staff, she says. ‘A pat on the back is great and, though I’m the face, these achievements have a positive impact on everyone at SBW.’

After four decades making wine all over the world, Balbo’s philosophy today is simple: ‘My priority is to plant the appropriate variety in the appropriate place and make transparent, honest wines that express the place they’re from. Eighty percent of our grapes come from the Uco Valley: we have 36ha in Gualtallary, and long-standing relationships with producers in Vista Flores, Los Chacayes and Paraje Altamira, plus we’re converting all 57ha to be 100% organic.’

As for the next 20 years, the focus is sustainability and, ever the innovator, Balbo is bringing a new project to life. She says: ‘My mum is 89, so longevity is on my side. I’d certainly love to see one of my three grandchildren become involved at SBW. I hope to see Mendoza commit to organic vines and improving must quality, which means better supporting our producers. It’s also a concern that the domestic market with its [43%] inflation isn’t profitable.’ As for her latest project: ‘I’m building a boutique hotel in Chacras de Coria – it’s quite the investment, but it’s my way of moving forward.’

See all Decanter scores and tasting notes for Susana Balbo wines here

South American white wines have undergone a more radical transformation this century than in any other period in the continent’s history. Changes have been driven by numerous factors. The search for cooler spots to mitigate the effects of climate change, combined with increasing self-confidence, has led producers to explore progressively more marginal conditions, while the need to offer consumers diversity is encouraging producers to consider alternative varieties. Additionally, there has been a desire to preserve local heritage, prompting producers to explore old vineyards.

As wine drinkers become increasingly curious, astute and interested in less familiar grape varieties, unusual styles and unique stories, South American producers are responding with enthusiasm and the landscape is changing rapidly.

New territory

On both sides of the Andes the boundaries of viticulture are moving towards higher altitudes, closer to the sea and further south.

In Mendoza, Argentina, some of the Precordillera (Andean foothills) vineyards in La Carrera and Uspallata boast altitudes surpassing 2,000m. In the desert-like conditions of Jujuy, Argentina’s northernmost viticultural region, vineyards have been established at altitudes above 3,300m, with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Torrontés Riojano planted alongside red varieties.

Chilean producers are also heading to the hills. In the Elqui Valley, Viña Falernia has planted Pedro Ximénez in one of the country’s highest vineyards, at 2,070m. Altitude also features in Brazil. In the southern part of the country, Santa Catarina state, vineyards have been planted at 1,300m. Sauvignon Blanc has real potential in this region, and a producer to look out for is Vinícola Thera.

For decades, cooling coastal breezes have been an important ally to Chilean producers. Some of the best white wines made in Limarí, San Antonio, Leyda, Casablanca and Colchagua Costa benefit from their proximity to the Pacific ocean, which is one of the reasons why Viña Errázuriz decided to establish vines in Aconcagua Costa.

Argentinian producers have similarly begun to establish vineyards near the coast. Trapiche developed Chapadmalal, south of Buenos Aires, while Matías Michelini has recently joined a project at Bahía Bustamante, 1,500km south of the capital, where vines have been planted just metres from the sea.

In Uruguay, Bodega Garzón has included Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Semillon in its Maldonado vineyards, 18km from the Atlantic.

There has been a rush towards marginal climates in the south of the continent. In Argentina, Patagonia has attracted the interest of many producers despite challenging conditions that include low rainfall, howling winds and the threat of frost. Alejandro Bulgheroni started Otronia winery, a project in Capitán Sarmiento, Chubut, where Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay were planted at parallel 45.33°S. The concept of pushing the vine to the limit to achieve the best results does seem to have its benefits, and Otronia Chardonnay already features among the country’s best.

In Chile, the lack of support for development of viticulture from the local Mapuche population, the country’s largest ethnic group, most of whom live in the south, has historically hindered expansion south of Bío Bío. Additionally, the threat of excessive humidity discouraged producers from crossing the line until Viña Aquitania set up vineyards in Traiguén, Malleco Valley, 650km south of Santiago in 1995. Plantings have since then expanded around Malleco and extended to Osorno, more than 900km south of Santiago, where Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay have shown potential. Miguel Torres, Casa Silva and Viña Trapi del Bueno are achieving remarkable results in this area.

Exploring diversity

Although South American countries cannot claim the levels of diversity of countries such as Italy or Portugal, there is a growing number of grape varieties and styles for wine lovers to explore. In Argentina, white grapes account for 18.36% of plantings. Three types of Torrontés (Riojano, Sanjuanino and Mendocino) dominate, accounting for almost 10,000ha of the 36,400ha planted to white varieties. Torrontés can perform well and demonstrate versatility at different price points, and there is a trend towards toning down its aromatic exuberance. Producers are picking earlier to obtain more delicate citrus notes, retain freshness and achieve lower alcohol while maintaining its personality.

Torrontés responds well to fermentation on the skins and adapts itself to judicious use of oak. In Calchaquí Valley, in Argentina’s north, high-altitude vineyards are responsible for some of the best examples, including those from Bodega Colomé, located in Salta province, and Bodega El Porvenir in Cafayate, also Salta. Zuccardi Serie A and Susana Balbo are also excellent examples. Torrontés is able to retain its personality and offer value even at lower price points. One producer achieving consistently good results is Bodega La Riojana.

Argentina is a reliable source of entry-level Chardonnay, the second most-planted grape variety in the country at 5,921ha. Trivento achieves admirable results at this level.

Chardonnay is also responsible for some of Argentina’s best whites. Consumers looking to trade up can find many producers, including Andeluna, Bodega Atamisque, Finca Flichman and Bodega Catena Zapata, which makes an outstanding example from its Adrianna vineyard in Gualtallary, worthy of comparison with any world-class Chardonnay.

There is more to explore than just these two varieties. Consumers who enjoy lighter, refreshing styles can search for Bodega Norton, which makes an elegant Gruner Veltliner as well as a bright and pure Sauvignon Blanc. Zorzal offers a racy, focused and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc in its Eggo range called Blanc de Cal. Those who prefer more exuberant and richer styles could explore Viognier from Bodega Lagarde, which claims to be the pioneer of this variety in Argentina. The grapes are sourced from vineyards planted in 1989 in Luján de Cuyo and display excellent varietal character while retaining elegance and freshness.

Argentinian diversity does not end here. There are other great examples of varietal wines, including Fiano (Bodega Caelum), Malvasia (Escala Humana), Verdejo (Familia Zuccardi), Pinot Grigio (Finca La Celia) and Chenin Blanc (Michelini i Mufatto).

White blends are becoming increasingly fashionable in Argentina. At the entry level, Torrontés blends offer good value, especially alongside Riesling or Chardonnay. However, real excitement is found at higher price points. Matías Riccitelli makes Blanco de La Casa, offering incredible personality and laser-sharp freshness by blending Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Semillon. Matervini produces an outstanding example of a richer style by co-fermenting Marsanne and Viognier before ageing in oak. Judging by recent success, wine lovers can expect more exciting blends in years to come.

Chile has built its reputation on offering excellent-value varietal wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, which dominate plantings with 15,300ha and 11,200ha respectively. Price-sensitive shoppers are well served by Chile, with many of the large players such as Santa Carolina and Concha y Toro doing an admirable job.

At the mid-premium level there are too many producers to mention – although Viña Casablanca must be highlighted for winning a DWWA Gold medal in 2019 with its Nimbus Sauvignon Blanc. Further excitement is found at the premium end with many producers throughout the country making exceptional Chardonnay, from Concha y Toro’s Amelia in Limarí in the north, to Viña Aquitania’s Sol de Sol in Malleco in the south.

Chile offers other excellent varietal wines, including Albarino (Vinos G2), Riesling (Cono Sur), Sauvignon Gris (Casa Marin), Viognier (Tabalí), Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer (Morandé), and recently País (Bouchon), among others. Producers in Chile are also demonstrating creativity through blends. Adventurous consumers can explore Cono Sur’s Gewürztraminer-Viognier-Riesling blend under the great-value Bicicleta label. At the mid-premium level, Morandé offers Bestiario, an excellent blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. For audacious consumers, A Los Viñateros Bravos has an outstanding blend of Semillon and Muscat called Granítico Blanco from a small parcel of old vines in Itata.

Old vine revival

In fact, old vines of less fashionable varieties such as Semillon, Moscatel and Corinto (believed to be Chasselas), historically planted and destined for bulk wines, are experiencing a revival. Viñas Inéditas Terroir Sonoro winemaker Juan José Ledesma’s Moscatel de Alejandría grown in Itata, and J Bouchon’s Granito Semillon from Maule, both made from vines of at least 70 years old, are sublime examples.

Old-vine Semillon has also been rediscovered in Argentina. Matías Riccitelli sources fruit from an ungrafted vineyard planted in Rio Negro in the 1960s and turns it into one of Argentina’s most exciting white wines. Producers all over Argentina are paying attention to old vines, including Torrontés. Bodega El Esteco makes an outstanding example from a Calchaquí Valley vineyard planted in 1945. This is a positive trend that will help to reverse the demise of some wonderful old vineyards that are scattered all over the continent and often overlooked.

Vine age features less in Brazil and Uruguay, with even the best wines of Uruguay made from comparatively young vines. Albarino has been producing good results. The Galician variety was introduced by Bodega Bouza in 2001 and planted by Bodega Garzón in 2006.

The success of these producers has started a trend that looks set to continue. It is highly likely that Albarino plantings will increase ahead of other varieties in the coming decade and be a welcome addition to the Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc that have been planted for decades and perform well in the hands of competent producers such as Daniel Pisano and Familia Deicas.

Brazil focuses its production on red and sparkling wines as there is low consumption of white wine in the domestic market. However, there is respectable diversity, with Albarino, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Malvasia, Muscat, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Semillon, Verdejo and Viognier planted alongside Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

Brazilian producers are not able to compete with their South American neighbours at the entry-level price points due to high domestic taxation and labour costs. At the top end there is no iconic white wine yet, but in the mid-premium category there are producers worthy of attention, such as Don Guerino, Guaspari and Pizzato, which makes Legno, by far the country’s best Chardonnay.

The way ahead

South American producers are pushing boundaries and discovering new terroir. There is also a growing sense of responsibility towards protecting old vineyards, while the adventurous spirit of South Americans is driving plantings of new varieties. At the same time, younger producers are coming to the fore, injecting fresh ideas to expand the knowledge of the experienced old guard.

The overall result is increased diversity, enthusiasm and optimism, and there is a palpable sense of excitement. There has never been a better time to explore the white wines of South America, which, generally speaking, over-deliver in terms of quality and value, at all price points.

Judging by recent developments, the next decade will be even more exciting.

Top South American white wines to try

Argentina’s reputation for high quality Malbec can sometimes draw the focus from the diverse set of wines being produced in the country.

Variety of terrain, from floodplains to mountain heights, has allowed a wide range of other exciting grapes to flourish, and more and more quality examples are available reasonable prices.

Malbec is represented below – how could it not be? – but there are also wines from several other varieties to seek out, including Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris and Torroentes. All the wines were tasted by Decanter‘s expert tasting team.

Exciting Argentinian wines to seek out

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Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release South American whites priced £10-£40 in the UK made from any white grape, and whose proportion of Chardonnay and/or Sauvignon Blanc does not exceed 50%

The Verdict

By Patricio Tapia

To think beyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc is not unusual when discussing South America’s white wines. It’s true, both Chile and Argentina – and to a lesser extent Uruguay – have already managed to capture the attention of critics and the public with some very good examples of both mainstream grapes. However, there is life beyond the big two, and this tasting has shown that this life can hold great excitement.

‘The tasting dispelled a couple of prejudices – firstly, that Chile’s white wines are all about French grape varieties; and secondly that Argentina is essentially red wine country,’ said panel member Anthony Rose, while for Waitrose buyer Daphne Teremetz: ‘There is a world of variety beyond Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay in South America, much as I value these noble varieties, with a huge array of terroirs to discover too.’

Scroll down to see the top wine tasting notes & scores

Good examples of Argentinian Torrontés – especially those coming from high-altitude vineyards in the north of the country – were among the stars here. The evolution of this grape, which has moved from rustic and bitter towards much more friendly and fruity wine styles, has been spectacular in the last decade.

‘I believe that Torrontés has real potential to grow in acclaim and appeal as long as salinity is kept in check, allowing the peachy generosity of the variety to shine,’ Teremetz said.

Chile, for its part, has had a long relationship with Riesling, since it was first imported into the country towards the middle of the 19th century. However, it has always been in the shadow of other grapes. In the tasting, this was the Chilean variety that interested us most, with delicious and refreshing examples on show, all born on the rolling hills of Leyda in the San Antonio Valley, facing the Pacific Ocean. Pay attention to this grape, which is quietly becoming the best alternative for those who are bored with Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.

But if you want something more unusual, you should consider another maritime zone, this time on the other side of the continent, on the cool shores of Garzón, facing the Atlantic in Uruguay: a new destination for Albarino. Although today just a handful of wineries produce this grape, the results are very promising, as we were able to see thanks to two juicy examples highlighted in this tasting, made by Bodega Garzón and Bouza.

Another of our discoveries was the high standard of the Semillons we tasted. This is a grape that had fallen into oblivion in Argentina and Chile, but today it is the object of a refreshing revival on both sides of the Andes. Creamy and friendly, spicy and fresh, this new wave of Semillons has both the quantity and the quality to become a category to consider when talking about the new South American whites. ‘On the whole, I found the diversity of grape varieties beyond the usual suspects of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to be substantially greater than anticipated,’ said Rose. ‘Having said that, I wouldn’t say I was bowled over by the overall quality – and yet, at the higher echelons, to have 30-odd wines at silver medal level is a promising result for “alternative varieties”, for want of a better expression.’

In summary, this was an unexpected and enjoyable tasting of a selection of wines that invite you to venture out and try the likes of Torrontés, Riesling or Albarino, but also Moscatel, Roussanne, Marsanne and Sauvignon Gris – altogether a great example of diversity from the South American wine scene.

The scores

• 89 wines tasted
• Exceptional 0
• Outstanding 0
• Highly Recommended 32
• Recommended 50
• Commended 3
• Fair 2
• Poor 1
• Faulty 1

The judges

Anthony Rose

Rose writes a weekly wine column for The Independent and is a regular contributor to Decanter, as well as a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Australia. Accolades include three Glenfiddich Wine Writer of the Year awards and a Louis Roederer International Columnist award. His own blog is at www.anthonyrosewine.com.

Patricio Tapia

Tapia graduated with a degree in journalism in Santiago, before attending Bordeaux University to study winemaking. His several books include Wines for Great Occasions, The Wines of Colchagua Valley and TodoVino, as well as his annual Descorchados guide to wines of Argentina, Chile, Brazil and Uruguay.

Daphne Teremetz

Teremetz is a wine buyer for Waitrose, responsible for its ranges from South America, Bordeaux, Alsace and Regional France. She began in ladies tailoring at Marks & Spencer, moving to Spar UK where she garnered acclaim for her improvements to its wine range, before moving to Waitrose in 2016.

About South American whites

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc have led the way, but South America’s landscape is shifting again, says Patricio Tapia, as interest rises anew in what alternative varieties can add to the mix…

See all 89 wine tasting notes & scores here

There was a time when the panorama of South American white wines was limited to one grape, the perfumed and robust Moscatel de Alejandría, the grape that the Spanish conquerors brought to that side of the world at the beginning of the 15th century. Moscatel and, later, Torrontés (a cross between the red Listán Prieto and Moscatel, made in Argentina) were the only white varieties in South America for almost 350 years. Things changed in around the middle of the 19th century, when the first imports of European grapes included Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Riesling. Right after this new wave, Muscat and Torrontés were left aside, giving way to the new reign of these varieties which brought flavours that seemed much more elegant and sophisticated, by the standards of those times. The old Moscatel and its cousin Torrontés were both relegated to country wines, consumed in taverns.

However, by the end of the 1980s, everything would change again. The fashion for Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay around the world at that time would lead to producers again doing away with the old (notably Semillon and Chenin Blanc) to concentrate on the new. In Chile, for example, towards the end of the 1980s there were less than 2,000ha planted with Sauvignon Blanc; today there are more than 15,000ha. Semillon, by contrast, fell from more than 3,000ha towards the end of the 1980s to barely 800ha planted in that country today.

It was similar in Uruguay, though on a much smaller scale. The madness for Sauvignon Blanc meant that a rich varietal vista was put aside. Today, however, vines such as Viognier and, above all, Albarino are being rescued.

Variety revival

The current landscape of white grapes in South America is largely dominated by Sauvignon and Chardonnay – however, in the last decade there has been a revival of ancient vines. Semillon is a good example. Once the finest source of white grapes, it practically disappeared from the wine map. Today, however, it is the subject of an incipient revival in Argentina and Chile. And although the number of hectares it covers is not high (in Argentina, for example, there are only 700ha of Semillon against more than 6,000ha of Chardonnay), these new wines have come to offer diversity in the white South American panorama and to break the duopoly of Chardonnay and Sauvignon.

The same goes for Moscatel de Alejandría in Chile or Torrontés in Argentina. Moscatel is enjoying a brilliant second life, thanks to old vines planted in the south of Chile, while Torrontés has been shifting in style from that of a rustic white to a wine radiant in freshness and generous in aromas. Today there are about 10,000ha of Torrontés planted; it is the most important white variety in Argentina and one of the best sources of whites in South America.

Where to go in search of diversity

If you are interested in going beyond Chardonnay or Sauvignon in South America, you should set off for the coasts of Uruguay, where just a few hectares planted with Albarino are delivering the best white wines in that country today. These are vineyards that face the Atlantic in the charming and very tourist-friendly Maldonado Bay.

To find the best Argentinian Torrontés, you should without doubt head to the north, to the Calchaquí Valleys, in zones such as Cafayate or Salta. There, at almost 2,000m high, the new wave of Argentinian Torrontés is being born, offering complex and perfumed, refreshing whites.

For Muscat of Alexandria, the best source – over centuries – has been the Itata Valley in southern Chile. Today a new generation of winemakers has returned to focus their attention on this grape, producing delicious and exuberant Moscatels, often with some skin contact, as dictated by local tradition.

For the best Argentinian Semillon, Mendoza and, above all, the Uco Valley offer old vines that give spicy and juicy whites; while if you are interested in Riesling, the place to look is the cold coasts of San Antonio in Chile, where the breezes of the Pacific Ocean give rise to crunchy and mineral examples.

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In partnership with Castilla y Léon

Discover the history and the wine of Toro DO in Castilla y Léon...

In partnership with Castilla y Léon

History Royal cellars and dodging phylloxera

The Toro Denominación de Origen (DO) is named for the town of the same name, found in the Zamora province of northwest Castilla y Léon, just 40 miles from the Portuguese border.

The Duero river flows through Toro, connecting it to the neighbouring wine regions of Rueda and Ribero del Duero.

The Romans brought Vitis vinifera vines to Toro, arriving circa 210 BC. By the Middle Ages, Toro was renowned for its wine production and it was reportedly favoured by the highest in the land, filling the cellars of Spanish kings.

The DO claims it was even taken to the New World by Christopher Columbus, due to the robust wine’s ability to withstand long sea voyages.

When phylloxera hit Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century, Toro held a unique advantage in its poor sandy soils and arid climate, which provided some defence against the parasite. The region exported wine to badly affected areas of France during this period.

Toro still grows ungrafted pre-phylloxera bush vines today and many are over 80 years old.

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Wine Tempranillo

Tempranillo reigns supreme in Toro, offering a new expression of the wine compared to nearby Ribero del Duero or Rioja. As with many Spanish wine regions, Tempranillo goes by its local name here: Tinto de Toro.

Although there is no historical link between the DO’s name and its style of wine, critics often liken the best examples of Tinto de Toro to a Spanish bull — dark, sleek and richly muscular.

Toro’s summers are typically short, but during this season it becomes one of the hottest and driest wine regions in Spain, with only 350-400mm of rain each year and temperatures pushing 40°C.

In these conditions, altitude is key and the majority of Toro’s vineyards are planted between 620 and 750 metres above sea level.

Nevertheless, wineries must battle to keep alcohol levels down and DO regulations make allowances for up to 15% abv.

Toro does produce some rosé, or rosado, wine, made predominantly from a blend of Tempranillo, Grenache and occasionally Malvasia. Most of the white wine production is left to its neighbour, Rueda, but Verdejo and Malvasia is also grown here.

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Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon have both found a unique place in Argentina and its wine history from their vineyards high up in the Andes...

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Beyond Torrontes: Discover Argentinean white wines

The rise of Sauvignon Blanc

The case of Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, has become a special phenomenon in Argentina. After having had a low profile for decades, it is now on the rise. The most curious thing is that its area of cultivation has not varied much, and it is grown from the north to the south of the country with very good results.

For example, and as might be expected, the highest concentration is found in Mendoza, especially in Valle de Uco. In this region, the vineyards of Sauvignon Blanc climb up to 1,400m in search of the climate that ensures correct ripening without sacrificing freshness.

The profile of these wines resembles those of New Zealand and the Casablanca Valley, but with a moderate and balanced expression, with crisp acidity and a fruity profile. Just look out for Zorzal Eggo Blanc de Cal 2016, Sophenia Synthesis 2016 and Salentein Single Vineyard San Pablo 2016 to check its potential in Mendoza.

Meanwhile, in the Calchaquí Valleys, in vineyards located above 2,000m, the results are more than surprising, since the wines develop a vegetal, spicy profile of good strength and amplitude on the palate, as with Colomé Lote Especial 2016, RD 2016 and Altupalka 2016.

In the province of Jujuy, to the north and at an altitude of 2,600m, Tukma Altura 2670 Sauvignon Blanc 2015 is produced, another reason that the most curious should not stop looking.

In Río Negro, Patagonia and Chapadmalal (Buenos Aires) near the sea, one can also find good examples. In the first, the inaugural commercial crop of 2017, has just been presented with the label Wapisa, which is a spin-off from Tapiz in Mendoza. The profile is moderate, closer to a Bordeaux white. Meanwhile, in Chapadmalal the winery Costa & Pampa is already going for its third harvest with an elegant Sauvignon Blanc, with fruity aromas and an electric palate, which seduces with ease.

The comeback of Semillon

About thirty years ago, this variety was at the heart of the most consumed whites in Argentina. Then came the rise of Chardonnay and, later, Torrontés, and this caused many producers to discard Semillon.

But today it is on the rebound.

The most outstanding case is Humberto Canale Old Vines 2015, made with grapes from a fifty-year-old Patagonian vineyard, a formula that has been followed by Matías Riccitelli for his 2016 varietal, which is produced with grapes from Rio Negro.

Meanwhile in Mendoza, each year, there are more styles of Semillon from different corners of the province. For example, Roberto de la Mota makes his Mendel Semillon 2016 with Altamira grapes, as well as Finca Suárez Semillón 2016, both with an excellent volume of ripe white fruits with flowers and shades of honey. Bodega Vistalba produces its Tomero Reserva 2013 thanks to its vineyards in Tupungato.

But there are also great examples from Luján de Cuyo, such as the classic Semillón by Ricardo Santos and one produced by Nieto Senetiner with grapes from Vistalba.

The secret to the resurgence of each of these varietals is that they have developed a unique profile with their own flavour.

This content has been provided by Wines of Argentina

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Last year we read about the 'Revolution of whites in Argentina'. This trend hasn't gone away and in fact has shown us the diversity of styles that can be achieved.

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Orange wines

Matías Michelini was one of those who promoted diversity by making an orange wine out of Torrontés, a way of making white wine that side steps the conventional by fermenting the juice with the skins.

This technique creates a Torrontés which is intense, fragrant, and tannic, capable of pairing with heavy dishes, not merely as an aperitif. Best served at 14-15 degrees and preferably from a decanter in order to appreciate its aromatic palette. In markets such as South Africa several producers are making orange wines from aromatic varieties such as small grain Muscat, Chenin Blanc, and Hárslevelű.

Wines under a veil

As part of their project Per Se, Edgardo del Popolo and David Bonomi presented a Chardonnay made under a veil of flor yeast and called it Volare de Flor. This unique process is similar to that of the vin jaune from the Jura region of France and of reinterpretations of Jura wines in the New World, such as the wines of Bodegas Re in Chile and AA Badenhorst in South Africa.

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Super Whites

There are some great white blends beginning to appear. Like superheroes, they take positive attributes from different sources and get better. These blends are white varieties from the same region and/or from different provinces coming together in a bottle.

Recently I had the chance to taste the wine @michelini 2009, a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Torrontés, with a significant cellaring. The wine is complex, with a great balance between the aroma of flowers, and the freshness of the Sauvignon blanc.

Susana Balbo also produces a blend of the same strains, but in equal amounts, which will surely get people talking. It is an intense wine from the calcareous areas of Tupungato and San Carlos. Other blends equally complex include Lágrima Canela from Walter Bressia (Chardonnay and Semillon) or Tiara de Viña Alicia (Riesling, Albariño and Savagnin). A more accessible one would be Amalaya Blanco, a combination of Torrontés and Riesling.

Blends from other provinces are few and far between but in February we’ll see Saltallary 2015, an innovative blend of Sauvignon blanc from Tacuil, Salta, with Sauvignon blanc from Gualtallary prepared by Matías Michelini. The idea of this wine is to combine the aromas and expressiveness of Salta with the minerality and austerity of Gualtallary. Two provinces are joined in a bottle to create a ‘Super Wine’: a wine with power and the ability to break down barriers, a sort of ideal alchemy.

Marcelo Miras has also just released his Pinot Salvaje 2015, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Our Malbec and Torrontés are known throughout the world, and now these other new and innovative products are ready to be discovered.

Written by Paz Levinson for Wines of Argentina

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Wine is like the people who make it and drink it. It’s like the land from where it is born and it’s reflected in the people who want to be near it. Here are seven indispensable things you need to know...

Read more from Wines of Argentina here

In the planisphere of wine, Argentina occupies a curious place: neither old nor new world, each one with its own part to play. But more importantly, it offers things that are unique, not only for its terroirs but also for its people. In this article we review seven things you need to know about Argentina, its wines and its food.

Altitude, the secret.

Argentina has a handful of vineyards next to the ocean, like most growing regions of the world, but has the bulk of its vineyards between 600 and 2000 meters above sea level. This factor means that along a 1500km line of mountains several oases are developed in which the vines grow under widely varying conditions, all linked to a single factor: altitude. The altitude compensates for the latitude since, for every 150m of ascent, the average temperature drops by 1°C. So it is possible to make wines in Salta, on the Tropic of Capricorn, and in Hoyo de Epuyén on the 42º parallel south latitude. And the scenery changes from rugged mountain valleys and villages of cactus in the north, to desert plains and broad valleys in the centre, finishing off in well nourished forests or on the green coastline of the ocean. Naturally, the wines also change.

The desert, a vast landscape.

Beyond the altitude, the common denominator of Argentine wine is the desert. Since 99% of the vineyards are planted on irrigated oases. Three key points influence the wines:

1) Controlled irrigation water, the harvests are roughly coupled in volume and quality, except those years when the uncontrollable El Niño touches down;

2) The sun is a constant, producing reds with a deep red colour;

3) The breadth of the temperature range between day and night becomes a natural systole and diastole, which produces reds with structure and body. Thus, the low, warm deserts, of the East of Mendoza or the central valleys of San Juan, give aromatic reds with little structure, while the high altitude terroirs, like the Uco Valley, Luján de Cuyo and the Valleys of Calchaquíes, provide fruity reds, with good structure and natural concentration.

A long history.

Contrary to popular belief, Argentina is a country with a long history of wines. Its international position as a producer came about fairly recently, beginning in the 1990’s and especially in 2000. However, the wine regions of western Argentina such as Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, Catamarca and Salta – have been in production for 300 years. This explains why there is such a vast knowledge of the terroir and its management when making wine. The best example is Torrontés: a native variety, grown since the beginning of 1700, which is now internationally recognised.

Immigration, key component.

Between 1860 and 1930, over five million people came to Argentina, mainly from Italy, Spain and France, but also Lebanon, Poland and Germany among many other countries. They settled mainly in the east, although many migrated west in search of new opportunities. So in the span of a lifetime, Argentina developed a palette for the wine and gastronomic flavours of the immigrants. Wine was however, the key. Today, as well as Malbec, Cabernet and Merlot, it is possible to find vineyard varieties as curious as Canari, Tocai Friulano and Touriga Nacional. Along with others, they make up a very large varietal area, a natural lung for the requests that future markets will begin to ask for.

Diversity.

Precisely because of its long history, and because there are many productive oases, Argentina offers an unusual diversity of regions and wines, which the world is only now acknowledging. On the one hand, varieties and forms of cultivation; on the other, soils and climates. Thus, behind a variety like Malbec, many styles of wine are hidden if the tasting is by terroir: matte reds, spicy and powerful in Salta; violet and fruity reds in Lujan de Cuyo; deep violet reds, floral, fruity and structured in the Uco Valley; violet, slightly herbal and fruity reds in Patagonia. And all that, without going into other varieties or styles. Because Argentina offers a vast range of wines to discover.

What do Argentines drink?

With a long tradition of consumption, today we drink about 24 litres per capita per year. Mostly red, with Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon being the most popular. In the last thirty years, however, customs have changed: we went from being a country that consumed low cost wines at all meals, to one that consumes better quality and higher priced wines, with some meals. In addition to other structural changes, this generated an exportable surplus that, from the beginning of the 1990s, internationalised the Argentine taste for wine. So, today you can find everything from everyday, light reds with accessible price ranges, to high-end reds and whites. Together on the shelf with wines from many other countries.

It’s not all asado.

What catches the attention of foreigners the most with regards to Argentine culinary customs is meat and asado. And it’s true: there is a cult of asado, a ritual meeting with family and friends, a discussion of cooking techniques and the expertise of the parrillero (the person making the asado) in order to achieve the very best. However, the asado is at most a weekly gathering. Meanwhile, dry and especially fresh pastas, pizzas with mozzarella, empanadas of all kinds and milanesas, coupled with excellent quality vegetables and dairy products, make the local diet more complex. A diet which is accompanied by wines, from light rosé wines to deep reds, to aromatic and well rounded whites.

With this background, the next time a bottle from Argentina is uncorked, whether it be Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon or Torrontés, besides the usual descriptors in the glass, there will also be a more distant and full horizon from a country that has so much to give and discover, locked in their bottles.

http://blog.winesofargentina.com/what-do-you-need-to-know-about-argentina-to-know-its-wines/

Written by Joaquín Hidalgo

A Decanter.com promotion.

Unique in the world, the province of Salta, in northwestern Argentina, offers stunning mountains, giant cacti and unforgettable wines.

In the North of Argentina, almost on the border with Bolivia, there is a long chain of valleys where the vines grow under the blazing sun, on rugged slopes populated by cacti as high as an oak tree. Known as the Calchaquí Valley, the epicentre of wine is in Cafayate, the main city in the province of Salta.

At a height of around 1,700m, twenty or so wineries are producing unique red and white wines, where the rugged landscape is a key component. Visiting them involves winding dirt roads, crossing rivers with large potholes and tasting some of the most representative dishes of Argentine Creole food. In short, a three-day adventure, complete with wonderful hospitality and a hundred picture postcard views.

Starting point Salta

The colonial capital city of the province, is the starting point of the Calchaquí wine route. Getting here is easy by plane, and the first surprise is that it is set in a very green valley, a kind of subtropical forest. The vineyards are still 200km West, which is why it pays to do a night here.

The Cerro San Bernardo, which is reached by cable car, has the most complete view of the city. In the central square, look out for the Cathedral and the Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña. For its important pre-Columbian collection, the museum is a visit worth your time; where one of the most stunning exhibits is a collection of mummies discovered in the Llullaillaco volcano, at a depth of more than six thousand metres. At night, Balcarce street and its folkloric clubs, where you can listen to folklore guitar and watch traditional dance, go on until dawn.

However, it is in the food where the real journey begins. And good salteña empanadas are the perfect snack: filled with sliced meat, potatoes and red peppers, they are small and very juicy, so be careful not to stain your clothes! Also on offer are humitas, tamales, goat casseroles and goat cheeses that go extremely well with the powerful and tasty wines of the Calchaquies.

Onwards to Cafayate

The best way to travel is by car. The route is not difficult, but care should be taken. During the two hundred kilometre journey which links the city of Salta to Cafayate, Route 68 winds through hills and ravines, with greens giving way to the copper, red and russet shades of the mountain rocks. Before long, the landscape becomes less forest and more desert and is populated by huge cacti, called Cardones. On the verge of the Calchaquí Valley, in the Quebrada de las Conchas, erosion has carved the rocks into fanciful shapes: a toad, an obelisk, a friar and the most famous, Garganta del diablo or devils throat, all of which make for some great photos.

At the heart of the valley, Cafayate has sweeping views of vineyards dotted here and there which cover two thirds of the 2,933 hectares in Salta. One of the wines produced here is the celebrated Torrontés and the classic reds, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat.

Around the square of Cafayate life flows to the rhythm of slow bicycles, restaurants filled with parishioners and travellers and the craft markets. Take a walk around to buy some souvenirs and visit the Museum of the Vine and Wine, where they will explain how the terroir of the Calchaquí works and why its wines are different due to the particular temperature ranges, intense sun and alluvial soils.

Now the only thing left to do is visit some of the wineries. On foot, one can visit Vasija Secreta, the oldest of the bodegas. Then El Porvenir de Cafayate, which has a more modern style, and Bodega Nanni, a small winery which produces organic wines.

By car, on the way to Divisadero, Bodega Amalaya, is the most modern in the area, and higher still, Finca Las Nubes, from winemaker José Luis Mounier. Further South on route 40 towards Tolombón, are Finca Quara and Etchart, two very old wineries, both very important in the region. While on route 40 north, almost on the edge of town is Bodega El Esteco, with its stunning colonial buildings, it is surrounded by vineyards, and from the restaurant of its luxurious hotel, Patios de Cafayate, you can gaze out at the magnificent views.

In the area, three interesting wineries to visit are San Pedro de Yacochuya, owned by the Etchart family and French winemaker Michel Rolland. Piatelli, with very modern architecture, an excellent restaurant and panoramic viewpoint. And Domingo Molina, whose terrace offers a perfect sunset spot.

The highest vineyards

Leaving the town of Cafayate and heading north on the winding route 40, you arrive at Molinos after crossing the lunar landscape of the white and rocky Quebrada de las Flechas. Further up the road in Molinos are Bodega Colomé and Tacuil, two of the highest and most remote wineries in Argentina. The first is one of the oldest wineries in Argentina and home to the highest vineyards in the world, with breathtaking views in an untouched location, it also offers the Museo de la Luz, designed by American artist James Turrell. Tacuil, on the other hand, is a charming rustic boutique winery.

From Molinos we return to Salta via Cachi, a whitewashed village, tucked into the hillside. Among the key moments of the drive back is the Quebrada del Obispo, which descends into the forested ravines below, and will be one of the highlights to remember. It should be seen before midday to take advantage of the cloudless skies and beautiful greenery.

A curious thing happens to travellers who have visited the Calchaquí. Those who have toured its ravines, met its people and walked along its rugged geography, have an extra sense when uncorking its wines. There is nothing better than uncorking a Malbec Salteño to remember the elegant power of its wine in the rustic charm of the valley.

http://blog.winesofargentina.com/salta-vineyards-and-empanadas-in-the-shade-of-a-cactus/

Written by Alejandro Iglesias

A ripe, generous and aromatic nose with notes of peach, lychee and mandarin. The fruit is generous and sweet, with the palate boasting pineapple and further stone fruit flavours. Showing real character, bright acidity and a long, energising finish, this is a great-value introduction to the variety.

Not available in the UK or USA

Two years and two DWWA International Trophies for this producer, which has has become a standard-bearer for the high vineyards of the Calchaquí Valley, in Argentina’s Salta region. Last year it was the Don David Reserve Tannat 2012 that triumphed, but this year the winning wine is almost its polar opposite: a highly aromatic and expressive Torrontés.

El Esteco was also the most awarded Argentinian winery in last year’s Decanter World Wine Awards – and the success in both years is a significant advance in the estate’s mission to create awareness about the Calchaquí Valley’s unique natural attributes.The region, El Esteco strongly believes, is the best in the world for growing the aromatic Torrontés grape.

Why? It may be partly the altitude – more than 1,700m above sea level – and partly the continental desert climate. Whatever the factors behind its success, the result is a wine with great concentration and high-intensity aromas and flavours.

El Esteco winemaker Alejandro Pepa

To put its vision into practice, El Esteco believes in minimal intervention, allowing the terroir of the valley and the purity of the fruit to speak for themselves in the wines.

For fourth-generation winemaker Alejandro Pepa, whose vinous heritage spans the Old and New Worlds, wine started out as pure fun: helping with the harvest and winemaking, blending and tasting. ‘It was all just a game when I was a child,’ he recalls. ‘However, little by little, the playing turned into working and here I am now, lucky enough to be doing what I love for a living.’

The high-altitude vineyards of the Calchaqui Valley

Tasted against

There were no other Regional Trophies tasted in this category.

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Argentinian Torrontes under £15 went to Zuccardi, Serie A Torrontés, Salta 2013 (14%)

Tasted against:

• Alma Andin, Torrontés, Salta 2013
• Amalaya, Blanco de Corte Torrontés-Riesling, Salta 2013

Profile:

This is one of a glorious brace of Trophies for Zuccardi and its Serie A line. The A stands for Argentina Series and, in Zuccardi’s words, ‘is a way of expressing our most representative grape varieties by recognising the best growing regions specific to each, and selecting top vineyard sites along the foothillsof the Andes Mountains’.

Zuccardi was established in the 1960s with the planting of its first vineyard in Maipú by Alberto Zuccardi. Since then it has expanded into one of Argentina’s most famous labels but is still family run, with José Alberto Zuccardi as executive director, supported by his sons Sebastián, who looks after the estate’s vineyards, and Miguel, who produces olive oil, also under the Zuccardi flag.

Salta is considered the home of Torrontés, with vineyards that stretch to 3,100m above sea level. This Trophy winner hails from vineyards at 1,850m and Zuccardi believes this is integral to the wines’ character traits: ‘The altitude and diurnal temperature difference of around 25°C benefit the grape ripening process, concentrating the flavours and aromas and helping us achieve very expressive wines of outstanding quality and uniqueness.’

Written by Decanter

The spirit of this emblematically unique variety from Argentina is conveyed through the voice of women, leading characters in the industry who work hand in hand with men.

The profiles of female entrepreneurs, harvesters, winemakers, agronomists and growers build the story in a soft and delicate episode, one with the scent of a woman.

And the winner is...

Etchart, Privado Torrontés, Salta, Argentina

2010 (13.8%)

Fresh, delicate, spicy nose that is pretty and

silky. Typical fruity Torrontés characters of pears,

elderflowers and guavas, a juicy texture and

steely-dry finish. Great aperitif!

UK: £5.99; MCW

It may carry a divisive reputation, yet, happily for its fans, Torrontés goes from strength to strength. As does Etchart: this may be a new year and a new vintage, but it’s the same name and cuvée etched on the Aromatic Trophy as in 2010. This Torrontés feels like those unusually sunny English summer days. It is veryexpressive but not explosive and strikes the perfect balance between freshness and brightness. Torrontés is to Cafayate what Sauvignon Blanc is to Marlborough in New Zealand; the only difference is that the former is indigenous to Argentina. In Cafayate, with its high-altitude sunny days and cool nights, Torrontés thrives, retaining the all-important acidity and giving, at its best, wines of great intensity and complexity. If this region is not better known, it is because it is so small. When it comes to Torrontés and Cafayate, though,Etchart is well versed. Its first vineyard was planted in 1863 and is still producing grapes. Quality has been to the fore since Arnaldo B Etchart bought the winery from a relative in 1938 and set out to become synonymous with the valley.

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Written by

Wines of Argentina is commissioning a study to find out what UK consumers really think about the white grape variety, Torrontes.

Argentina’s signature red varietal, Malbec, continues to dominate wine sales, with Torrontes accounting for just 3% of exports in 2010.

Andrew Maidment, UK director of Wines of Argentina told Decanter.com the aromatic varietal had had limited success thus far because of its distinctive nature. ‘Torrontes has not gained as much ground in the UK as it could have done, as some key gatekeepers love it while others hate it.

‘We want to know what percentage of people love it and what percentage hate it. If more people love it than hate it, then it has got a future,’ he said

The consumer-focused research will include tastings of single varietal Torrontes as well as Torrontes blends, and different quality levels.The country’s three clones – Riojano, Mendocino and Sanjuanino – will be represented, as well as wines from different wine regions.

‘We want to know what sort of style people like. It is important that we understand this so we can better sell Torrontes.’

The results of the research will be announced at the Wines of Argentina annual UK trade tasting on September 14.

• Decanter will hold the third annual Tastes of Argentina event on Saturday 10 September at The Great Hall, Vinopolis. For more details and to book tickets, visit the Tastes of Argentina website.

Written by Rebecca Gibb

In these days of single-varietal familiar wines, how difficult can it be to find out about one particular grape? Very difficult, actually. Torrontés has been discovered by the Argentinians but, it appears, nobody else has taken the time or effort. So where did it come from? Again, except for a handful of specialist writers, nobody has anything to declare. One lone Spanish volume contains the following short entry: ‘Torrontés is a white variety originally from Galicia which yields wines with little body and good acidity, great personality and intense flavour. This grape is planted in Galicia and Cordoba.’

Great personality huh? Perhaps it’s worth seeking out after all. Torrontés was once quite widely grown in the region of Galicia in northwest Spain, just above Portugal. According to Spanish wine expert Gerry Dawes, in the 1400s and 1500s the town of Ribadavia was well known for its Torrontés, which sold for high prices in Europe. The grape’s next brush with fame (decades and centuries of obscurity later) came in the 1980s with the discovery of Rías Baixas. Torrontés caught a glimmer of the spotlight as it sat in the Rías Baixas blend alongside the much-vaunted Albariño, but this brush with the high life didn’t last long. The Spanish and British adoration for Albariño soon meant that Torrontés was no longer required, and although traditionalists stood firm in believing Rías Baixas to be far better and more complex with the full complement of grapes, the modern view held that Albariño was better on its own. Today Spanish Torrontés has been relegated almost solely to the wines of Ribeira.The apex of Torrontal achievement in Spain today is its contribution as 3% of the blend for Viña Mein, one of the top wines currently available from the DO. The Cooperativa Vinícola do Ribeiro in Ribadavia has about 75 hectares (ha) of Torrontés planted, but this is only some 12% of its total – compared to 310ha of Palomino and 60ha of higher quality Treixadura. Optimists are still looking forward to an Albariño-style usurping trick, with Torrontés obscuring the boring Palomino (bland grape of Jerez fame) in the region and squeezing past Treixadura in its pursuit of acclaim. Frankly though, it’s better off packing its bags and going elsewhere. Leaving behind Albillo, Loureiro, Godello, Lado, Treixadura and its other blend partners to head for Argentina is probably the best thing that Torrontés could have done. Over there, they really do love it. Despite the fact that Torrontés in Argentina may not be the same as Torrontés in Spain, it’s amazing to see a namesake keeping Chardonnay and Sauvignon so well in the Andean shade.

People began to notice Torrontés in Argentina in the 1970s, when improved quality controls filtered into the wineries and vineyards. Torrontés needs cool fermentation to preserve its amazing flavours – the stewing temperatures of pre-stainless steel would have wiped out its powerful aromatics in one hot afternoon – so it remained a workhorse blender until things got ‘cleaner’. It actually arrived in Argentina a long time before this. Some people say it came with the Jesuit missions of the 1500s, others with Spanish conquerors in the 1800s, but again nobody knows. What they first noticed was its distinctively aromatic character (peachy to some, Muscaty/grapey to others), and its heady and attractive nature. In weight and mouthfeel it’s not unlike an Alsace wine, with crispness and richness at the same time. What they next realised was that at higher yields, these qualities quickly vanished and the wine turned bland and boring – care was needed to curtail vigorous vines. Victor Marcantoni of Etchart explains: ‘One of the secrets of Torrontés is harmony in the vineyard. It’s grown in all the Argentine viticultural regions and the quality improves from south to north as conditions become cooler and growth less prolific.’ At Etchart, pruning, irrigation and fertilising is oriented towards controlling yields and Marcantoni feels it is crucial to have a close control of the leaves in order to keep the right balance of integral ripeness, avoiding bland fruit as well as anything that would make the grapes taste tart and herbal. Harvesting is manual at Etchart (from low-trained vines, where many growers still have pergolas) and grapes are transported to the winery in small containers to avoid breakage.

In the winery, Torrontés responds well to cool temperatures. Fermentation is at 15-18?C over roughly 15 days and racking is carried out at low temperatures, too. A little lees contact is generally allowed, but most winemakers prefer to let the authentic flavours of the grape show through without embellishment from yeast or oak. The winemaking also depends on terroir. In Mendoza, Argentina’s biggest wine Characteristics

White grape, light bodied, and with crisp acidity; on the nose and palate it is distinctively flavoured and perfumed. Related to Muscat. Needs cool fermentation and low yields.

In Spain

Originates in Galicia, most important in the Ribeira region. Used in blends in much of Spain, but only as a minor variety.

Wine regions: Spain

In Argentina

Best when grown at altitude, particularly in the high 1,700m vineyards of Cafayete, in northern Salta province.

Wines of Argentina

With food

The grape copes well with strong flavours such as asparagus and is perfect with fish, seafood, prawns or chicken. Cuts through cream sauces and cheese.