There is a version of Napa Valley that can seem faintly ridiculous when you are 24.

The $299-$1,300 (£225-£1,000) hotel room. The $125/£95 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon. The tasting appointment requiring a credit card, an advance reservation, and perhaps a working vocabulary of vine clonal selections and fermentation techniques.

None of this is necessarily what you came for, and at this point in your life you may not know Cabernet Franc from Cabernet Sauvignon anyway – and that is entirely fine.

Your first trip to Napa Valley does not need to be a pilgrimage to its grandest estates. In fact, it probably should not be.

Come to understand why this unusually compact stretch of northern California became one of the world’s great wine regions, but also to eat absurdly good food, go shopping, sit by a pool, stay out later than the winemakers do, and discover that Napa offers a host of interesting wines beyond Cabernet Sauvignon.

Visit Napa Valley is an excellent resource for anyone planning a visit

Insider tips

One such vintner, who has managed to gravitate between high-end Napa Cabernet and a slew of posh wines that are turning up at parties where 20-somethings seem to multiply, would be Josh Phelps – no relation to the founder of the Joseph Phelps brand (producer of $358/£269 Insignia).

Josh grew up in St. Helena and today owns Grounded Wine Co., which produces wines priced from $14/£11 to around $73/£55 per bottle.

He also makes Ad Vivum with his dad, Chris Phelps (and that’s a $197/£148+ wine you buy when you’re in your 30s or 40s).

His advice to 20-somethings is straightforward: ‘The focus of your visit to Napa should be on the wine, but that doesn’t mean blowing your budget on tasting fees. Even if you can't afford a ton of tastings, you can still enjoy Napa, Yountville, St. Helena, and Calistoga – they’re all small, accessible towns to walk around in, and there are casual options for dining in all of these great places,’ he says.

The trick is to do Napa, just not the Napa designed for those who drive (and paid for) a $167,000 Audi RS e-tron GT performance.

Understanding the cost

Napa is expensive, but coming out of the trip with your bank account still in good shape is entirely possible.

Visit Napa Valley puts the average wine tasting at about $40/£30, while noting that fees can range from around $20/£15 to more than $200/£150 for elaborate tours, classes and food experiences.

Two formal winery appointments can therefore swallow $100/£75 or more before you have even bought a bottle, eaten lunch or hailed a ride share.

One mid-level, sit-down, proper winery tasting and one truly casual wine experience is plenty, particularly if you are still learning what you like.

Spend the rest of the day exploring Napa Valley’s small towns.

Finding accommodation

Accommodation is a trickier line item, and rates fluctuate dramatically by season and day of the week. But deals do exist.

Napa Winery Inn, for example, has advertised direct rates from about $137/£103, with complimentary breakfast and parking. Splitting a two-queen room among friends changes the maths considerably.

Phelps suggests choosing your location according to your company. ‘If you are with your parents, Solage up in Calistoga is probably the most young and hip of the swankier Napa resorts,’ he says.

Its outdoor Picobar and pool scene make it one of the livelier luxury options up-valley.

With friends, Phelps points to the retro-styled Calistoga Motor Lodge, or suggests staying in downtown Napa, where more affordable hotels put restaurants, tasting rooms and bars within walking distance.

Another option is to prioritise a kitchen over a bathrobe. RiverPointe Napa Valley has studios with kitchenettes and one-bedroom units with full kitchens.

Shop for dinner, open some of the bottles you discovered that day and eliminate both the restaurant bill and the question of who is driving home.

The power move, meanwhile, is make friends with someone whose parents own a house in the Valley, and who are welcoming to their kids’ friends – because their local connections, presumably awesome and spacious kitchen, and crash-pad luxury make for a safe, fun way to stay in prime wine country while keeping costs in check.

Just make sure to offer to chip in for cleaning and groceries.

Taste somewhere that doesn't feel like homework

The key word in your 20s is accessibility – and not simply financial accessibility.

Visit Napa Valley has put together a useful list of wineries that offer tastings at $50 or less and downtown tasting experiences across five cities in Napa but here are few personal favorites to consider:

Matthiasson is an excellent place to discover that Napa wine can be serious without any tasting pomp and circumstance – no quiet sanctity of someone’s idea of wine tasting church.

Tastings are held outdoors, at picnic tables, overlooking the family's Phoenix Vineyard in Oak Knoll, and run around 75 minutes and include five or six wines.

The current fee is about $75/£55. You may encounter Cabernet Sauvignon, but also Ribolla Gialla, Chardonnay and other varieties that make a persuasive argument against the idea that Napa begins and ends with big red wine.

Bella Union offers a more social, highly designed version of Napa. Its introductory Taste of Bella experience costs $65/£48 for four wines with chef's snacks, while walk-ins are welcomed when space allows.

And then there is Raymond Vineyards, where subtlety is not really the brief. Jean-Charles Boisset's theatrical streak runs through rooms filled with crystal, crimson décor and sensory installations.

Tastings begin around $75/£55 (and they offer a complimentary welcome tasting for first-time visitors on Thursdays and Sundays).

If your only conception of a wine tasting involves sniffing corks, tasting out of barrels, and somebody whispering about soil, Raymond will upend that stodgy notion in the blink of an eye and the pop of a cork.

In Calistoga, Tank Garage Winery channels the spirit of its restored 1930s petrol station into a range of lip-smacking, one-off California blends ($40/£30 for a four-wine tasting). The labels are provocative, creative collages that call to mind the brilliance of Dave Phinney’s Orin Swift labels (I'm thinking of Machete).

Winemaker Bertus van Zyl experiments with unusual grape combinations, skin contact and carbonic maceration, and the garage’s ‘rock-n-roll’ atmosphere makes it an inviting stop for 20-somethings. If there is one wine club you join in your 20s, it might be their MADE Wine Club, which comes with some pretty cool perks, like customizable releases and members-only wines and events.   

For something more old-school, Phelps recommends V. Sattui in St. Helena. Its entry-level Mercato tasting is around $43/£33 for five wines, but the real draw for the budget-conscious visitor is its marketplace and 2.5 acres of picnic grounds, where you can settle in with wine and provisions bought on site.

‘It's a great, inexpensive way to try out the wine and Napa Valley lifestyle,’ says Phelps.

Taste exploration

Do one or two such tastings, not four in a day.

And don't come to Napa in your 20s believing that buying wine means buying strictly Cabernet Sauvignon.

Drink Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Ribolla Gialla, sparkling wine and rosé!

Buy two bottles you loved rather than joining a wine club because somebody just poured you six tastes and you are feeling like you should drop some cash.

Tasting is tasting to see what you like. To learn.

Remember, your 20s are for forming your tastes, not acquiring allocations.

Also, a word to the wise: if there is one thing you learn in your 20s while wine tasting, learn to love the process of tasting, savouring, and spitting wine.

Don't attempt to drink every pour; because you’ll only ever end up on the floor.

And in the moment when you're cut off, sprawled on the sidewalk and no ride will take you home – not cool.

Eat extremely well, casually

One of Napa's great peculiarities is that even casual food can make you wonder why lunch at home is so disappointing.

Gott's Roadside in St. Helena (and downtown Napa) is a classic starting point: burgers, fries, tacos, shakes, beer and Napa wine, with sprawling picnic tables, a pet-friendly section, and no reservation required.

In downtown Napa, Oxbow Public Market works particularly well for groups because nobody needs to agree on anything.

Among its tenants is Loveski, Christopher and Martina Kostow's self-described ‘Jew-ish’ deli. Christopher Kostow led The Restaurant at Meadowood when it held three Michelin stars; here, the considerably more casual menu runs to house-made bagels, matzo ball soup, pastrami, Reubens and brisket sandwiches.

Then there is the wonderfully Napa phenomenon of a destination hot dog at a petrol station. Honor Market in Yountville is an upscale market, wine shop and filling station where the hot dog costs about $9/£7.

If you have rented somewhere with a kitchen, take advantage of it. Under-Study in St. Helena combines a bakery, patisserie, butcher counter and bottle shop.

Likewise, Oakville Grocery is another Napa institution for sandwiches, pizza, and other fine food and wine.

Pool your money, buy bread, meat, cheese, produce and something local to drink, invite your friends round and have the local house party you probably weren't going to get invited to anyway.

Explore the towns

Napa Valley is only about 30 miles/48 kilometres long, and some of the pleasure at this age comes from not having every hour booked.

Downtown St Helena is compact enough to wander between boutiques, cafés and restaurants.

Calistoga has its own walkable centre at the northern end of the valley, while downtown Napa City offers the greatest concentration of shops, restaurants, tasting rooms and bars (we’ll see you at Cadet or Compline).

Two wheels are another good way to slow things down. The Napa Valley Vine Trail now has 33m/53km of completed, free-to-use walking and cycling trail, including a section connecting Napa with Yountville and the recently completed 8m/13km stretch between St. Helena and Calistoga.

The latter is mostly flat, running through vineyards and past Bothe-Napa Valley State Park.

Eventually, the Vine Trail will extend 47m/76km from the Vallejo Ferry Terminal all the way to Calistoga. There remains a gap between Yountville and St. Helena – for now.

If you need a break from wine, Bothe itself has more than 10m/16 kilometres of trails through redwoods, Douglas fir and madrone forest. You can hike or bike-in for free and the parking fee is $10.

Down-valley, you can also kayak or paddle board the Napa River.

Getting outdoors is one of Napa Valley's great pleasures, but a trip here doesn't have to become a hiking or camping holiday simply because you're in your 20s and travelling on a budget.

Napa after dark

This is where having a Napa native on speed dial helps. The valley gets sleepy quickly after sunset, but there’s an admirably simple up-valley strategy: find the local dive bar.

Having made his mark on them in his 20s, Phelps has the best insight for this. 'Each town has its dive bar: Susie's in Calistoga, Ana's Cantina in St. Helena, and Pancha's in Yountville, which is probably my favorite. Those are three classic, fun dive bars.'

Susie's stays open until 2:00am, while Ana's remains a Main Street St. Helena locals' haunt.

Pancha's is Phelps's pick of the three. This legendary Yountville dive closed for several years before reopening in late 2025 thanks to grape grower Ren Harris and his wife, Marilyn, alongside partners Paul and Suzie Frank, with Scott Lewis. If you’re aiming for that 2:00am shift, Uber or Lyft there and back, or have a designated driver.

For greater concentration, however, base yourself downtown where you can hit some of the more affordable tasting experiences.

You can do a downtown Napa bar crawl and wind up at Cadet Wine & Beer Bar, which stays open until midnight Monday to Thursday, and 1:30am on Fridays and Saturdays, with electronic house music DJs and other music regularly part of the program.

‘The scene is a little younger than you might expect,’ says Phelps, who is known to do pop-ups there.

Then there is JaM Cellars, a wine bar and live-music venue with JaMSessions running Thursday to Sunday.

Nearby, the restored 1937 Uptown Theatre draws touring rock, blues, jazz, folk, country and comedy acts.

Parting advice

Don’t spend the trip pretending to be older than you are (unc). You have decades ahead for cult Cabernet, grand tasting rooms and three-hour lunches.

For now, taste what you can afford. Drink wines with grape names you have never heard of before.

Get the $9 hot dog. Find the dive bar. Go hear a band. Buy two bottles you genuinely loved. Sit by the pool. Stay out late.

And should your parents call from a swanky up-Valley resort wondering where you are, tell them not to worry.

You figured Napa out already.

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Sorting whisky by region, and particular characteristics, is a familiar rubric in Scotch. If it’s from Islay, it’s likely to be heavily peated. A Lowland malt should be light and grassy. Speysiders often feature rich Sherried notes. Scotland’s regional whisky framework is supported by centuries of history and practice.

American single malt, however, is much younger, gaining recognition in US regulations only in 2025. It may seem premature to discuss regional characteristics, but in fact there are several areas of the country developing distinct styles.

‘Unlike with wine, it’s not just terroir,’ says Nora Ganley-Roper, head blender of American whiskey independent bottler Lost Lantern Whiskey, which created the first American vatted malt. ‘It's a combination of factors – specific choices that are made by a number of distilleries in certain regions.’

With the US landmass covering 9.06 million square kilometres, its topography ranging from the lofty peaks of the Rocky Mountains to sea-level and below, and its climates spanning tropical to arctic and everything in between, considering regional differences makes sense. There’s a lot of ground to cover – literally – so let’s start exploring.

Pacific Northwest

The very first American single malt came out of Oregon in the mid-1990s: McCarthy’s, made at Clear Creek Distillery. In the 2000s, the category began to grow, driven largely by distillers who came from the region’s robust brewing culture.

‘That leads to more focus on barley cultivars and being particular about different malt houses with their available range of styles,’ says Portland, Oregon-based Miles Munroe, founder of Grimoire Whiskey and blender for Westward Whiskey, adding that ‘most of the best barley grown in the US for beer and whiskey grows right here.’

Distillers in the Pacific Northwest, including Westland and Copperworks, almost universally lauter their wash – separating the sweet liquid wort from the solid grain husks and malt – a practice that’s uncommon in traditional American whiskey, where fermentation and distillation happen on the grain.

Many also work with local farmers to grow heirloom and experimental barley varieties, sending the harvest to local malting houses, and some mature in native Oregon white oak, also known as Garry oak (Quercus garryana), as well. The result of these choices: whiskies that are radically diverse in flavour but equally reflective of the culture, and agriculture, of their origin.

Desert Southwest

The climate of the American Southwest can be extreme, with temperatures exceeding 35℃ in summer yet, in some places, dropping well below 0℃ in winter – and always dry. These conditions set up a unique environment for maturing single malt, yielding intense, concentrated oak flavours after a short period of time, regardless of cask type. (It’s rare for a whiskey from this region to exceed four or five years of age.)

An additional element of flavour comes from the use of mesquite-smoked malt, pioneered in 2011 by Whiskey Del Bac in Tucson, Arizona, whose founder, Stephen Paul, built a custom malting machine to control the process in-house. Later, commercial options spread the practice to New Mexico’s Santa Fe Spirits and Andalusia Whiskey Co in Texas. The latter uses other woods as well – as do distilleries such as Balcones; layering flavours from apple and oak, for example, creates barbecue character in their powerful, punchy malts.

Whiskey heartland

America’s traditional whiskey region spans Kentucky and Tennessee, where bourbon and rye reign supreme. Even here, though, single malt is putting down roots, following its elder siblings’ template: grain-on fermentation, distillation in column stills, and maturation in new charred oak, sometimes followed by a finishing cask. For Jack Daniel’s, the process also includes charcoal mellowing.

‘That was a really important element for us,’ says Master Distiller Chris Fletcher. ‘We needed to produce something that felt uniquely Jack. Ultimately, we felt sending our single malt through 10 full feet of charcoal, just like our Tennessee whiskey, helped amplify its sweet character and soften some of its earthy notes.’ Besides Jack, bourbon behemoths like Bulleit and the James B Beam Distilling Co, with Clermont Steep, have also jumped aboard the single malt train.

Rocky Mountains

Ganley-Roper calls this style ‘high altitude’, thanks to the impact the Rocky Mountains (averaging 1,800-4,400m in elevation) have on maturation. ‘Because at altitude water evaporates so much more quickly, you get a density of flavour without it being dominated by oak,’ she explains.

Distilleries such as Stranahan’s, Laws Whiskey House and Boulder Spirits all display that characteristic flavour density, amplified when maturation takes place in new charred oak. Many of these producers also employ locally grown and malted barley – a ready commodity thanks to the region’s longstanding beer industry – and dilute their spirit with pure Rocky Mountain snowmelt.

Emerging regions

Elsewhere in the country, some areas are worth watching. The East Coast maritime climate, with humid, hot summers and cold winters, has a distinct impact on single malts like those made at Triple Eight Distillery on Nantucket. Further inland, mountain regions like Southern Appalachia and remote New England may also begin to cohere into a recognisable style.

The Great Plains and Midwest are agricultural powerhouses, ripe for more farmer-driven expressions of single malt like those made at Cedar Ridge Distillery in Iowa. And nascent trials of American peat, mostly limited to the Pacific Northwest, have sketched out tantalising possibilities of even more new styles.

Six Regional American single malts to try

Andalusia Stryker

Texas

Everything’s bigger in Texas, including this single malt smoked with oak, mesquite and apple wood, which bursts out of the glass like the billowing aroma of perfectly cooked brisket, just off the coals. Sweet and smoky on the palate, with a mouth-filling intensity, it achieves balance and restraint with a freshening herbal character. Alcohol 50%

Boulder Bottled-in-Bond American Single Malt

Colorado

High-altitude maturation emphasises bold stone fruit and cacao notes, with integrated spice throughout the nose and richly textured palate. In accordance with Bottled-in-Bond rules, the whiskey was distilled in a single season and aged for at least four years. Alc 50%

Jack Daniel’s Oloroso Sherry Cask Single Malt

Tennessee

Jammy berries, dark chocolate, leather, coffee bean and earthy oak lend gravitas to the dry spice and light, grain-driven body of the underlying malt. It’s a straightforward pour, much like its Tennessee whiskey sibling. Alc 45%

Westland Flagship American Single Malt

Washington

Aromas of sea salt, shortbread and lightly smoked malt give way to a palate of toasted oak, salted caramel and pecan-and-chocolate-chip cookies. Made with speciality malts and several cask varieties, including oloroso and American oak, with pleasing balance to satisfy repeat pours. Alc 46%

Westward Whiskey Milestone

Oregon

While each annual release is deliberately different, the house character always shines through: rich tropical fruit drizzled with marzipan, undergirded by earthy barrel char and rippling spice. A masterwork of blending from Miles Munroe that shows off the distillery’s range. Alc 43%

Whiskey Del Bac Dorado Single Malt

Arizona

Distillery founder Stephen Paul endeavoured to create a whiskey that captured nighttime in the Sonoran desert, and this mesquite-smoked single malt nails it. Redolent of a gently crackling campfire on the nose, the palate sings with zippy black pepper and chillies, grilled stone fruit and fragrant sage. Alc 46%

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At approximately 43°N, Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula sits on a parallel remarkably close to New York’s Finger Lakes, at roughly 42°N.

These two regions are neighbours in an eastern corridor of cool-climate viticultural areas, linked by water from the Great Lakes to the Finger Lakes, Hudson River and Atlantic Ocean.

Follow that arc from Ontario’s Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County to New York’s Finger Lakes, Hudson River Region and Long Island, and a compelling story emerges.

Across this interconnected landscape, producers are giving Cabernet Franc an increasingly important role, moving it from a traditional blending partner to a wine that, on its own, can offer a captivating expression of place.

‘For years, Cabernet Franc was the grape we blended away. Now it’s the one we’re most excited to bottle on its own,’ said Gabriella Macari MW, a co-founder of Cab Franc Forward, a producer-led movement to champion the grape.

‘Sommeliers and red wine lovers are discovering its charm and its range, from bright and perfumed to serious and ageworthy.’

Cabernet Franc by way of water

Long associated with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in Bordeaux-inspired blends, Cabernet Franc has often played a supporting role to its more famous offspring. Yet it is also one of Cabernet Sauvignon’s parents.

Across this cool-climate corridor, it is increasingly stepping out of that shadow, asserting its own identity.

That personality is expressed through incredible range. Cabernet Franc gives winemakers room for interpretation, producing wines that can be light and fragrant or deeper and more structured.

In its finest expressions, the variety shows a common thread of vibrant flavours, freshness and finesse, while remaining unmistakably Cabernet Franc across very different sites.

Water is one of the defining threads connecting this eastern wine corridor. The Great Lakes, Finger Lakes, Hudson River and Atlantic Ocean moderate temperature extremes and extend growing seasons even while the varied soils, topography, exposure and vineyard decisions create distinct expressions from one region to the next.

Canada

Niagara Peninsula: Freshness and Structure

The Niagara Peninsula is at the centre of Ontario’s Cabernet Franc story. The variety is Ontario’s most planted red grape, with approximately 1,400 acres (567ha) under vine across the province’s three primary appellations.

While smaller plantings exist in Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County, Niagara accounts for the vast majority.

Niagara’s diversity of soils and mesoclimates allows the variety to move across a broad stylistic spectrum.

Cooler sites produce wines marked by bright red fruit, herbs and vibrant acidity, while warmer sites and favourable vintages can deliver darker fruit, greater concentration and more substantial structure.

At its best, Niagara Cabernet Franc occupies an intriguing space between Loire freshness and Bordeaux structure: aromatic and savoury, yet capable of depth, texture and ageability.

Its versatility here extends well beyond still red wines. Cabernet Franc remains an important component of blends, while producers also use it for icewine and in a few examples of traditional-method Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine.

For Thirty Bench Wine Makers in Beamsville Bench, that combination is central to the variety’s appeal.

‘Cabernet Franc has so much personality. When managed well in the vineyard, it can truly demonstrate both the vintage and the region in which it is grown,’ says head winemaker, Emma Garner. ‘In Ontario, it can achieve optimal ripeness while retaining vibrant acidity, with rich, velvety tannins and the structure to age.’

Increasingly, producers see Cabernet Franc as one of the grapes best suited to express Niagara terroir.

Beyond Niagara

Ontario’s other two wine regions demonstrate just how dramatically Cabernet Franc can change with climate and site.

East of Niagara, on the north side of Lake Ontario, Prince Edward County offers a cooler, more tension-driven expression.

Its limestone-rich soils and marginal growing conditions favour wines defined by freshness, mineral character, floral aromatics and savoury complexity.

At the opposite end of Ontario’s spectrum, Lake Erie North Shore benefits from greater heat accumulation and a longer growing season.

Its warmer conditions can produce richer, more fruit-driven Cabernet Franc, with darker fruit, fuller texture and greater concentration.

United States

Finger Lakes: Precision and Purity

South of Lake Ontario, in New York, the Finger Lakes provide another major anchor for Cabernet Franc. It is the state’s most planted red vinifera variety, with an estimated 638 acres (258ha) across the state’s wine regions.

Its growing importance helped inspire the Cab Franc Forward collective, which is positioning Cabernet Franc as New York’s flagship red grape.

The Finger Lakes region has the state’s largest concentration of plantings. Its deep glacial lakes moderate temperatures and help create a long, slow growing season while preserving acidity.

This produces a compelling style of Cabernet Franc that combines red and dark berries with herbs, spice, floral character and fine tannins. The style has a Loire-like sensibility, but the wines remain distinctly rooted in the Finger Lakes.

The team at Forge Cellars has increasingly explored Cabernet Franc through individual vineyard bottlings.

‘Cabernet Franc gives us a particularly clear expression of our region,’ says managing partner, Rick Rainey.

‘We’re still learning what the Finger Lakes can do, and that exploration is what makes it so exciting. As we work with different vineyards, we’re increasingly interested in how Cabernet Franc can express the character of each site without imposing a regional identity.’

The appeal of Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc is its precision. These are wines that can be elegant without being slight, revealing layers gradually while maintaining verve and freshness.

Long Island and the Hudson River Region

Beyond the Finger Lakes, New York offers two other distinctive interpretations of Cabernet Franc.

Long Island, shaped by the Atlantic Ocean and Long Island Sound, produces a more maritime style, with darker fruit, supple tannins and greater texture balanced by freshness.

The Hudson River Region has very few plantings but is increasingly interesting, with the river moderating the climate.

Cabernet Franc’s winter hardiness and relatively early ripening, which let it ripen fully before autumn cold sets in, make it a natural fit.

One Variety, Many Voices

The most exciting development across Ontario and New York State is not simply that Cabernet Franc grows successfully here, but that producers are confident in allowing it to stand alone.

‘Over 25 years, we’ve learned that Cabernet Franc shines when you don’t force it,’ says Jessica Otting, winemaker at Tawse and sister winery Redstone.

‘Careful canopy management gives us ripe fruit with real complexity, and gentle extraction preserves its natural elegance. It’s about embracing what Cabernet Franc is, not trying to make it something it isn’t.’

These neighbouring wine regions are not trying to recreate the Loire or Bordeaux. Instead, each reveals its own nuances of the same grape, shaped by its lakes, soils and sites.

The parallels, then, are geographic, viticultural and philosophical.

Separated by a border but connected by water, climate and latitude, Ontario and New York are writing a fascinating chapter for Cabernet Franc.

12 cool-climate North American Cabernet Francs

Wines from Ontario are listed first then those from New York

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After nine trial blends at 35,000 feet, Jesse Katz found the one. Led by Cabernet Sauvignon, the Sonoma County red blend showed plush fruit balanced by tannins and freshness, without trading the unmistakable terroir of Farrow Ranch in Alexander Valley.

That wine, Air and Vine, represents an unusual collaboration between Katz of Aperture Cellars and United Airlines. The 2024 blend is scheduled to be served in Polaris business class in 2028.

As a frequent flyer of United, I first noticed a bounce in the wine programme from the passenger seat. I normally abstain from alcohol when flying, but in March, I started asking for full pours. Wines from Heitz Cellar, Domaine Serene, Catena and VIK started appearing in rotation. The shift was pronounced enough that I started asking questions.

Finding creative ways to build the best wine lists

Aaron McMillan, United’s managing director of hospitality programmes, told me the shift was deliberate. ‘When you think about luxury travel, premium travel, the investments customers are making to have this experience on board, you can’t neglect one part and leave the wine programme behind,’ he said. ‘It’s got to keep pace with everything we’re doing.’

This change coincides with the carrier’s debut of its Elevated Interiors and Studio Polaris seats on its new Boeing 787s, upgrades meant to make United more competitive on high-profile international routes.

Developing a wine programme to match poses challenges at scale. According to McMillan, a typical wine rotation lasts three months and can require 6,000 to 7,000 cases, limiting the airline’s access to smaller producers.

United has tried shorter runs instead. VIK, for example, appeared for only one month.

Partnering with a winemaker on a custom wine offers another way – fun yet practical – around the constraint of sourcing a sufficient volume of a finished wine in advance.

Tackling the challenges of wine at altitude

So why Katz, a bright star on the Sonoma scene? It turns out his relationship with United predates Air and Vine. Growing up in Colorado, he travelled with his father, photographer Andy Katz, to vineyards and wine regions around the world, often on United.

‘I truly would not be a winemaker if it was not for my father’s art and travel,’ Katz said.

Aperture began supplying Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc for Polaris, which eventually led to the idea of creating a wine designed for inflight service.

On a flight from New York to San Francisco in September, Katz tasted a line-up of components under the same conditions in which passengers would drink the finished wine.

For example, Katz said, dry cabin air mutes aromatics and fruit, while making acidity, tannin and texture more apparent. Tasting the blend again on the ground immediately afterward showed the reverse effect. Aromas opened up and the fruit became more intense.

‘Tasting at altitude directly shaped the proportions of the final blend,’ said Katz, who landed on 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 6% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

‘There were unique elements … that were more present at 35,000 feet that I was able to lean into or blend away from’, he added, making the wine ‘more layered and complex for this unique environment’.

Flying the wine-friendly skies

Other US carriers have also been revisiting premium-cabin wine. American Airlines began refreshing its wine list in May with a crop of well-known California labels.

This October, Delta relaunched its Delta One wine programme with Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson. Heavy on classics like Napa Valley’s Silver Oak and Patz & Hall, Champagne Taittinger and Cune Rioja Reserva, the selections were blind tasted by SkyMiles members before being finalized.

United’s Studio lineup now typically encompasses eight wines, including a Laurent-Perrier Champagne and a Port. But its changes extend beyond what is poured.

On aircraft with Elevated interiors, Polaris menus now include a perforated tasting sheet. Pull it from the pocket in the back of the menu and select up to three wines to compare side by side. An inflight tasting flight.

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Napa Valley traces its wine-growing roots to the 19th century and is today home to some of California’s most celebrated producers, not to mention great restaurants and picturesque vineyard landscapes.

Cabernet Sauvignon is a benchmark variety of the modern era, as reiterated in Decanter correspondent Jonathan Cristaldi's recent review of Napa's star-studded 2023 vintage.

Cabernet displays different sides to its character across the region, which includes 17 sub-appellations – American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) – nested within the wider Napa Valley AVA.

And this isn't the whole story, of course. Both red and white wines thrive across the region, which has more than 34 different grape varieties planted, according to trade body Napa Valley Vintners.

Take our 12-question quiz below to test your knowledge of Napa Valley's vineyards, history and wineries.

Take our Napa Valley wine quiz

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Covering 3.4 million acres – well more than California’s Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Mendocino county wine regions combined – the Willamette Valley is vast.

Too vast, objected the US Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms back in 1982, when vintner David Adelsheim petitioned to make the region its own American Viticultural Area.

But Adelsheim pushed back. Which part of the Willamette Valley, he asked, didn’t they want to include in the Willamette Valley?

In the end, that cool logic prevailed. Today, the Willamette Valley AVA stretches nearly 150 miles, from north of Portland to south of Eugene.

The southern Willamette: The same, but different

A staggering majority of the Willamette Valley’s wineries sit in its northern half, with most clustered between Salem and Portland.

But the Pacific Ocean–influenced weather throughout the valley is remarkably uniform, and distinctive soils abound.

So does the north possess some kind of magic that works wonders on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and other grapes?

‘There’s nothing you can do there that you can’t do here,’ says Andrew Smith, a well-known consulting winemaker based in Eugene.

The differences, he and others contend, are historical, cultural and commercial.

After Eyrie Vineyards garnered international attention for its Dundee Hills Pinot Noirs, wine talent and investment flowed into the north. A wine mecca was born – one with easy access to the significant Portland market.

In the south, the sparse vineyards are still spaced out by miles of Christmas tree farms and hazelnut orchards. That nascence thrills winemaker Drew Voit, who sought out fruit from the Cheshire area when he founded his Harper Voit label.

‘The south will have the same evolution as the north, but the wheels turn slow,’ he says. ‘People didn’t know Ribbon Ridge either … until they did.’

The southern Willamette gets its own sub-AVA

Dieter Boehm moved to Oregon in 1976, after escaping Communist East Germany by way of Czechoslovakia, then cutting through two fences at the Austrian border. In 1984, he founded High Pass Winery in the foothills of the Coast Range.

Rich in prized Bellpine marine sedimentary soils and shielded from Pacific winds by 3,425-foot-high (1,044-meter) Prairie Mountain, the area merited its own sub-AVA, Boehm and his neighbours knew.

But naming it proved difficult. The US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau rejected ‘Prairie Mountain’ for their own arcane reasons, and the petitioners couldn’t agree on an alternative.

Boehm, weary of the process, ploughed ahead with a new name, taken from the waterway that winds through the area before joining the Willamette River. On 10 November 2021, the Lower Long Tom AVA was approved.

The name had few fans, but the approval was a win, and Boehm is confident the controversy will fade.

‘Ultimately’, he says, ‘we have to prove with our product that we’re distinct.’

An obsessive pursuit of place

Antiquum Farm’s Stephen Hagen dresses like the farmer he is, but his choppy hair and tattooed arms hint at a punk core.

‘Stephen farms like he doesn’t know what a concession is,’ says Voit. ‘He doesn’t just not cut corners – he disavows their existence.’

It’s easy to get Hagen talking about the ‘massive disconnect’ between the lofty language of terroir and widely followed vineyard practices – especially fertilisation.

‘I don't understand how we say we make wines of place, but we’re using potassium sulfate that comes from the southeastern United States,’ he remarks.

Vines subsist on nutrients absorbed from the soil, with fungal colonies helping the root system along, Hagen explains; fertilising them ‘breaks the communication chain’ between soil and plant.

So in 2007, he quit. Now he uses a rotational, intensive grazing system, letting pigs, sheep and poultry do the work of adding nutrients naturally.

Hagen’s zeal for terroir purity might border on obsession, but that’s not to say he’s 100% uncompromising.

He does age his wines in French oak barrels – a dalliance with an Oregon cooper didn’t work out – but don’t think it doesn’t bother him.

The three Bs: South Willamette’s A-list

Three well-established wineries, two of them in Lower Long Tom, are doing the south Valley proud.

Brigadoon, led by second-generation winemaker Matt Shown, is producing excellent acid-driven dry whites, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling and the Suzanne Elizabeth blend of four varieties, a tribute to Shown’s blind, four-foot-eleven, tough-cookie of a grandmother.

In 2018, Benton-Lane winery was acquired by Huneeus Vintners (owners of Napa icon Quintessa and Sonoma Coast Pinot pioneer Flowers), and their young winemaker, Amael Orrego, is making his mark.

‘If you make a change and nobody notices’, he says, ‘I don't think you did a good job changing things.’

Orrego cut Pinot Gris and rosé from the Benton-Lane lineup – to the chagrin of many longtime customers – and has focused the range on one Chardonnay and three Pinot Noirs, all estate-grown. The uptick in quality is impossible not to notice.

Nearby Broadley Vineyards, just outside Lower Long Tom, has long been one of the area’s most coveted labels: From 1994 to 2019, riding critical praise, they sold much of their production through futures.

The commercial climate is very different now, but under the leadership of second-generation vintner Morgan Broadley, the winery remains outstanding.

King Estate: Bigger and biodynamic

In 2022, stalwart winery King Estate established a foothold in Lower Long Tom by acquiring the 70-acre (28ha) Pfeiffer Vineyard, one of its longtime grape sources.

King Estate, symbolically at least, stands at the southern limit of the Willamette Valley: In 2016, the winery succeeded in having the AVA’s border redrawn to include its 1,033-acre (418ha) site, which is the largest Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyard in North America.

Though some still grumble about the well-resourced winery’s inclusion, few question King Estate’s value to the Willamette Valley or its commitment to responsible farming.

‘I have a lot of respect for their ethos,’ says Antiquum’s Hagen, who appreciates the care that King Estate puts into farming nearby Pfeiffer. ‘They’ve been really good neighbours.’

The Headwaters: A wine region by any other name

In the Willamette Valley, the distance between the north and south is real. The division, however, need not be.

Capitello Wines’ Ray Walsh, a widely respected winemaker who came from New Zealand in the 1990s to work at King Estate, doesn’t much care for the ‘south’ framing.

The word has too many negative connotations. So he’s coined an alternative.

‘As I’ve always told people, we’re the headwaters of the Willamette,” he says. ‘This is where it starts.’

10 Southern Willamette wines to try

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The scenic mountain city of Boulder, Colorado, is surrounded by steep hiking trails and bisected by a burbling creek. It boasts an abundant farmers’ market and a population of gorgeous, globally ranked cyclists and runners. But do I go to Boulder for these wholesome things? Er, no. I go there to drink wine.

Alas, in January 2027, my Boulder secret (go for the hiking, stay for the wine!) will spill out. Because, after four decades in Park City, Utah, the Sundance Film Festival will move to Boulder, bringing 85,000 dilettantes to the best little wine town in the US.

Attendees will surely notice the move away from the US’s most draconian alcohol-control state. Utah, a retail monopoly, marks up every wine 88.5% over cost, while in Colorado, retailers and restaurateurs can set their own prices.

In fact, Colorado’s most distinctive regulation arguably makes the scene richer: elsewhere in America, wine enthusiasts can pay a corkage fee and bring their own bottles to restaurants. Colorado prohibits BYOB dining, which encourages the kind of deep wine programs one sees in Europe, where corkage isn’t the norm.

I learned this from Bobby Stuckey, who, as a freshly minted Master Sommelier, left Napa Valley’s The French Laundry 22 years ago to open a fine-dining destination in Boulder focused entirely around the cuisine and wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeast Italy. 'I remember my mentor Thomas Keller going, “Bobby, what are you doing? This is nuts,”' Stuckey recalls.

And yet, over the decades, Stuckey and his team have hosted countless visiting winemakers, launched the Frasca Hospitality Group and spearheaded the annual Festa del Chianti Classico in Denver.

Frasca acolytes have graduated to prominent posts across the US, as well as filling Boulder’s other restaurants with wine lists that call for reading glasses, an aperitif and 20 minutes of full concentration.

In an enclave with a population of just 70,000 (not counting the 38,000-odd university students), where shorts and trail shoes are standard attire, it’s astonishing that Stuckey’s flagship Frasca Food and Wine is regularly packed with diners dressed to the nines and swooning over Schioppettino.

So, who are all these high-mountain fine-wine enthusiasts? Boulder isn’t a posh ski outpost with a captive audience of high-spenders, after all.

Stuckey cites the density of biopharma, aerospace and tech employers here. ‘You have all these super-well-read, educated people, and they travel,’ he points out. (My take: a numbers geek is a ready-made wine geek.)

Case in point: wine critic Jeb Dunnuck was drawn to Boulder by a job at Ball Aerospace (now part of BAE Systems). ‘Once an engineer, always an engineer,’ Dunnuck says with a grin. Using his engineering knowhow, he coded the complex database for his subscription wine business back in 2008.

In a classic example of the wine synergy here, Dunnuck poached his senior editor from Stuckey. ‘We would have to taste like 150 wines a day,’ Dunnuck recalls. ‘I reached out to Bobby and said, “Would any of your young team members like to come support that?” and Audrey Frick came over.’

Unlike transplants Stuckey and Dunnuck, Boulder native Brett Zimmerman MS represents the city’s longer institutional memory. Local retailers Wayne Belding MS and Sally Mohr MS helped Zimmerman study for his MS exams, and in turn he took over their business when they were ready to retire.

In addition to running Boulder Wine Merchant, which offers regular producer tastings, Zimmerman founded the Boulder Burgundy Festival in 2011.

Beyond the strong dining scene, he sees the alpine terrain as key to understanding the endemic culture of connoisseurship. ‘Quality of life is important to people in Boulder,’ he explains. ‘Whether it’s biking, climbing, skiing or sharing time with friends,’ the ideal accompaniment is ‘a great bottle of wine’.

In my glass this month

It’s a shame many US regions prohibit wineries from serving their own estate-grown food. Happily, Oregon’s Columbia River Gorge is rich with farm-to-table winery dining.

In July, at Hiyu Wine Farm, I revelled in fava bean, mint and ricotta alongside their Aesalon 2023, a field blend of Spanish and Portuguese white and pink varieties. And at Analemma, the Mosier Hills Syrah 2022 (US$60 Analemma Wines) simply must be consumed with the house lamb bolognese. Come for the wine, stay for the food.

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The chill of fall always makes me need a glass of something with more substance than a summer wine – something that suits an evening of indulgence or a night of reflection in front of a fire.

Good thing we have autumn releases from some of the West Coast’s top names in wine: Appassionata, Inglenook, L’Aventure, Pym-Rae Tesseron Estate, Quintessa and Vérité.

It can be hard to pin down ‘official’ release dates for US wines, as they differ between the states, the UK and elsewhere in the world, not to mention between mailing-list members and the general public.

But each of the wines below was introduced at La Place de Bordeaux’s fall 2026 ‘hors Bordeaux’ campaign for notable wines from outside the region.

Though American, many of these wines do have a connection to Bordeaux or other parts of France, either through their founder, winemaker or source of inspiration.

Some of our experts’ new reviews below provide a sneak peek of wines still to come, while other wines are available right now. (We did not include the 2023 Napa Cabernets that we reviewed earlier in our vintage report.)

Either way, these picks are worth tracking down on winery websites or at your favourite merchant carrying high-end California and Oregon wines.

White Wines from Napa Valley

Here’s an early head’s up on the latest vintage of Illumination, a complex, layered Napa Valley white that is one of my favourite Sauvignon Blancs of all time.

Quintessa winemaker Rebecca Wineburg (yes, her career was seemingly preordained) crafts this blend – Sauvignon Blanc from the Huneuus family’s biodynamic estate in eastern Rutherford, Sémillion (the Bordeaux influence) and the Sauvignon Musqué clone – with an extraordinary attention to detail.

The most fascinating thing about Wineburg’s approach is the variety of fermentation vessels – French oak (new and neutral), acacia and stainless-steel barrels, plus egg-shaped concrete – that she uses to coax out depths of textural, aromatic and flavour complexity rarely seen in California Sauvignon Blanc.

Inglenook’s Blancaneux is a bit of a rarity in Napa’s Rutherford appellation, prime real estate for Cabernet Sauvignon and its companion blending varieties.

The winery is best known for its flagship Rubicon, a classic Left Bank Bordeaux-style blend, but has made this signature white since 1999.

Blancaneux looks to the Rhône Valley for inspiration, bringing together three white varieties – Viognier, Marsanne and Roussane – from estate vineyard blocks that get morning sun but afternoon shade to preserve acidity in the grapes.

The vineyard blocks, blend percentages and amount of new oak versus neutral fermentation and aging vessels changes from vintage to vintage, but Bordeaux-trained director of winemaking Philippe Bascaules and his team deliver a consistently high-quality California interpretation of a Rhône white.

The 2024 vintage has reached Europe, but the 2025 is now available in the US.

Napa Cabernet with a French accent

Pym-Rae is Château Pontet-Canet by way of Napa’s Mount Veeder AVA: Bordeaux varieties, mature vines, biodynamically farmed, but on steep slopes at cool, high elevations of 500 to 600 meters.

Bordeaux’s Tesseron family – Alfred, Justine and Noé – acquired the late actor Robin Williams’s former estate, kept the vineyard name and moulded it in their vision.

Famed consultant Michel Rolland, who died in March 2026, was brought on to help shape the Pym-Rae wines.

Now estate manager Jérôme Ledit carefully tends to the property, overseeing the detailed work, such as hand harvesting, manual destemming and the use of 40 small concrete fermentation vats.

These allow for close study of each plot, so the team can fine-tune the farming and winemaking practices, as well as make more nuanced selections for the always-distinctive final blend.

Bordeaux blends from a Sonoma viewpoint

French winemaker Pierre Seillan has honed decades of experience in Gascony, the Loire and Bordeaux into his approach at Verité, an elite Sonoma project he created with the late Jess Jackson of Jackson Family Wines. (The two also partnered on Château Lassègue in St. Emilion.)

Seillan’s daughter, Hélène, has since joined him as assistant winemaker.

The five Bordeaux grape varieties they use in the Verité blends are sourced from 50 micro-sites across four appellations: Bennett Valley, Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill and Knights Valley.

Each site is harvested and fermented separately in oak barrels with toast levels customized to the lots.

The 2023 growing season in Sonoma County was long and cool, allowing for slow, even ripening, and the portfolio’s three reds – the Merlot-dominant La Muse, the Cabernet Sauvignon-based La Joie and the Cabernet Franc–led Le Désir – show freshness and balance.

Regularly earning scores of 95 and up, these are stunning in 2023.

A Paso twist on Syrah and Grenache

South of Napa and Sonoma, in Paso Robles AVA, Stephan Asseo crafts remarkable Rhône-style reds.

Though he initially started off by creating a wine estate in Bordeaux, he became frustrated with the restrictions there and longed for more freedom.

After much exploration, he landed on Paso’s hilly west side and started L’Aventure, whose name speaks for itself. His daughter Chloe has since joined the family business and is now general manager.

With more than 51 hectares of rolling hills, Asseo has a lot of blocks to play with for different varieties and expressions.

His Syrah–based reds are exciting and seductive: The flagship Estate Reserve and Optimus both mix Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, showing the creativity that led him to this region.

In a more typical Rhône expression, the Côte à Côte is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre with a California spin.

A Rare Pinot Noir from Oregon

It’s unusual enough to have a German winemaker working with Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, but Ernst Loosen’s Appassionata project is all the more unique for not releasing its wines until they have some extra years of maturity.

Named after Beethoven’s piano sonata, Appassionata encompasses three ‘movements’ of Pinot Noir, with Fortissimo the last to be released, after 10 years in barrel and bottle.

Loosen first started this project in 2005 as a limited-edition bottling with J Christopher Wines.

Later, he acquired a property in the Chehalem Mountains and planted it from 2010 to 2014 with nearly seven hectares of Pinot Noir and 1.2 hectares of white varieties.

The 2016 vintage is considered exceptional in the Willamette Valley, early and warm, but not hot, so the Fortissimo provides an excellent opportunity to see how well the wines have aged.

11 fall fine wine releases from the US

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Terroir, or sense of place', is one of wine’s most enduring ideas. While many drinkers equate it with soil and climate, indigenous-owned wineries across California offer a broader interpretation of what terroir can mean.

Drawing on long-standing traditions of stewardship and care for the land, these producers are expanding the conversation around sustainable farming while crafting distinctive wines and visitor experiences.

At Bellacana Vineyards, owned by the Dry Creek Rancheria Band of Pomo Indians, the vineyard – whose name combines ‘beautiful’ in Italian and ‘river’ (‘cana’) in Southern Pomo – is part of a much older story.

The tribe has 55 hectares (138 acres) planted in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, and Lisa Lellis, board member and tribal member, describes the property as more than a vineyard.

When she looks across the vines, she also sees wildlife, a salmon run and native plants and oak trees that fed her ancestors.

'The vineyard is really the newest chapter in a much older relationship with this place,' she says.

A centuries-old introduction to wine

That idea that a vineyard can be incorporated into a much older relationship with the land is important when considering California’s wine history.

While indigenous tribes foraged from wild grapevines, Spanish missionaries began planting the first recorded wine grape varieties in the state and making wine in the 1770s, as part of the Mission system.

Often left out of that story are the native hands that planted and tended those vines.

For Chris Lobo of Native Hands Wines, that history is personal. His ancestors, members of the Juaneño Band of Mission Indians, Acjachemen Nation, built the mission at San Juan Capistrano.

Hundreds of his family members are buried there, and it has been the site of marriages, baptisms and funerals for generations of his family.

‘The mission system has been an extremely sensitive topic‘, he says, ‘But I don’t have the luxury to not talk about it.’

Rather than avoiding that history of coercion and exploitation, Lobo, who can trace his lineage for nine generations through the mission’s sacramental records, wants to bring greater historical accuracy to the story.

An ancient connection to the earth

For indigenous producers, re-establishing a relationship with the land does not necessarily begin with planting a vineyard.

At Séka Hills, owned by the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation, agriculture is at the centre of the tribe’s enterprises.

In their Patwin language, 'séka' means 'blue', referring to the Blue Hills along the west side of the Capay Valley in the tribe’s homeland, northwest of Sacramento.

Jim Etters, the Nation’s director of land management, has spent 23 years working with the Tribal Council to develop agricultural operations that include almonds, tomatoes, olives, wine grapes and other crops, as well as cattle ranching.

The tribe has 11ha (29 acres) planted to grapes, but does not handle winemaking.

Etters reports monthly to a committee of 15 tribal citizens who share their vision and insight.

He describes the Nation’s relationship with the land as ‘unlike anything I’ve ever seen – it’s bigger’.

He has been on walkabouts with tribal elders. ‘To walk with them, and to watch them, as they look over the landscape, it’s really something special,’ he says.

Terroir as a living ecosystem

That idea of interconnectedness also informs the wines of Tara Gomez, a member of the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians and owner of Camins 2 Dreams with her wife, Mireia Taribó.

The couple makes minimal-intervention wines, partnering exclusively with organic, biodynamic and regenerative vineyards in San Benito and Santa Barbara counties, with a focus on Sta Rita Hills.

For Gomez, terroir extends beyond soil, climate and geography. It also includes animals, farmers and vineyard workers, as well as the generations that came before.

The goal is not simply to take from the land, but to work in harmony with it and give back.

Darin Winton, owner and winemaker at Cellar 13 Winery in Livermore, is one-quarter Cherokee and a registered, voting member of the Cherokee Nation.

Winton looks at the vineyard holistically as an ecosystem rather than something to be controlled.

When dealing with pests, he does not want to eradicate one species – squirrels, for example – only to harm another animal such as owls, which play a role in the vineyard environment.

On the label and in the tasting room

Culture also shapes how these wineries tell their stories. At Séka Hills, the checkered pattern incorporated into the logo references the basketry for which the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation is known.

Bellacana’s logo centers on a Pomo basket based on an actual basket from the tribe, incorporating grapes to represent abundance, along with oak branches and acorns. The native oaks are part of the landscape around the vineyard, and acorns were an important food source for the tribe’s ancestors.

At Cellar 13 Winery, Winton incorporates Cherokee names for the wines and original label artwork by his uncle, John Balloue.

Native Hands gives each wine an English name and a Native name, with the labels representing a time, place, ceremony or position of the Mission Indians before first contact. Lobo’s grandmother was one of the last fluent speakers of Uto-Aztecan from the Takic Branch.

At Camins 2 Dreams, Gomez approaches the visitor experience through ‘restorative hospitality’, a core element of her tribe. It is about welcoming people into their space, sharing what they have, and sending them home with something they learned.

‘I try to incorporate my culture in a way that feels natural and not forced,’ Gomez says.

For her, language and the stories behind the wine names offer a way to share a little of her Chumash culture and where she comes from.

Perhaps that is another way of thinking about sense of place. It is not simply what you can taste in a glass, or what you can measure in soil, climate and geography.

It can also be the history, people, language and relationships that connect a vineyard to the place where it grows.

7 California wines from Indigenous wineries

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Knox Alexander and Isabelle Clendenen inherited more than a family winery. Au Bon Climat, founded by their father, the late Jim Clendenen, helped establish Santa Barbara County as a serious source of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, building a reputation far beyond California.

Now, the siblings are carrying that legacy forward while finding distinctly different places within it.

International markets have long been central to Au Bon Climat, known to fans simply as ABC.

Today, around 45% of sales are exports, with Japan its largest international market, followed by the UK. For Knox and Isabelle, that international identity was part of childhood.

‘Dad could be away travelling for as many as 200 days a year,’ Isabelle remembers. ‘He’d always bring back stories and souvenirs from the places where he was introducing Au Bon Climat to the world.’

One destination in particular captured Isabelle’s imagination.

Learning Japanese

Her fascination with Japan began with little figurines her father brought home from his travels.

Eventually, she convinced him to take her along. There, she found herself surrounded by people eager to interact with her, but with whom she could barely communicate.

She returned to California determined to learn Japanese.

Jim released the first vintage of Isabelle, his barrel-selection Pinot Noir named for his daughter, in 1995, when Burgundy remained the benchmark for Pinot Noir and the influence of Parker-era criticism reinforced the prestige of French fine wine.

By the time Isabelle began travelling to Japan around 2007, Japanese wine lovers were beginning to look beyond Burgundy for more affordable expressions of cool-climate Pinot Noir. Au Bon Climat offered precisely that kind of alternative.

That connection shaped what came next. Isabelle majored in Japanese, and spent a semester in Japan working with one of ABC’s distributors.

She realised then that a life in wine did not necessarily mean following her father into the cellar; it could be built around language, relationships and creating shared experiences. Isabelle joined Au Bon Climat full time in 2018.

‘I wouldn’t speak Japanese without wine, and I wouldn’t be in the wine industry without Japanese,’ she says.

The call to action

Today, Isabelle is one of ABC’s principal faces in Japan, strengthening distributor relationships and hosting wine dinners and events.

She says Japan’s share of the winery’s sales has roughly doubled, from 7% to 15%.

While Isabelle found her place at ABC by following the winery outward, Knox arrived at his role from almost the opposite direction.

Growing up in Santa Barbara wine country, where seemingly everyone was a winemaker or connected to the industry, Knox became ‘numb to the concept’ and initially wanted something different.

He journeyed through an odd sequence of experiences before finding his way back to wine: working security at a concert venue and, while studying journalism at Temple University’s campus in Japan, picking up voice-acting gigs for commercials and a video game.

Jim’s death in 2021, during Knox’s junior year, brought things to a crossroads.

‘That was a call to action for me’, he says, ‘a realisation that I had the opportunity to take part in something that was beyond just me, a continuation of a legacy.’

The succession question

After graduating, Knox returned for his first harvest in 2022 and has since worked alongside winemakers Marc Piro and Sarah Atwood in production.

Knox resists the expectation that a new generation must remake a family winery in its own image.

‘I think about this business as a passing of the torch,’ he says. ‘It’s the same flame and all.’

While Isabelle describes herself as a ‘crystallised version of Dad’, venturing outward to build within, Knox expresses succession differently – at home and in the cellar.

Asked where he hopes ABC will be in 10 or 20 years, he answers: ‘Hopefully the same, just with a few more grey hairs.’

Au Bon Climat remains committed to freshness and acidity in its wines, barrel fermentation for its whites, French oak for the barrels and the food-friendly style on which Jim built its reputation.

But preservation does not mean keeping everything in amber. Isabelle’s less romantic example of generational change?

‘The first thing I did was finally update our company website,’ she laughs.

A reassuring presence

Abroad, the evolution is more substantial. ABC has produced private labels for distributors in China, Japan, Denmark and the UK, while food, language and personal relationships increasingly shape how the wines are presented.

The siblings grew up with wine and food intertwined, particularly through the famously diverse daily winery crew lunch their father established.

Today, Isabelle carries that tradition into wine dinners around the world, pairing her namesake Pinot Noir with crispy duck bao (steamed buns) in China; Hildegard with matsutake gohan (seasoned rice with wild mushrooms and dashi) in Japan; and Los Alamos Chardonnay with tom kha gai (coconut milk chicken soup) in Thailand.

For the Clendenens, taking Au Bon Climat forward is less about reinventing their father’s wines than finding new places for them.

‘We aren’t rushing to mechanise our production. We aren’t straying away from our utilisation of French oak,’ Knox says.

‘We’ve realised these are the wines that we love, just like Dad did. In a world that is constantly changing, I think it’s somewhat reassuring to have something that stays the same.’

10 Au Bon Climat wines to try

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California vintner Jean-Charles Boisset has acquired Artesa Estate from Raventós Codorníu, adding one of Carneros’ most distinctive winery properties to a Napa and Sonoma portfolio that includes Raymond Vineyards, Flora Springs, Buena Vista Winery and DeLoach Vineyards, among others. Financial terms of the deal were not disclosed.

The acquisition includes the 350-acre (142ha) property, with 155 acres (63ha) planted across Napa’s Los Carneros and Mt. Veeder appellations, along with Artesa’s distinctive pyramid-shaped winery.

The deal’s timing has a striking historical parallel. Spanish producer Raventós Codorníu established Codorníu Napa amid another difficult period for the US wine industry. Reporting on the winery’s opening in September 1991, the Los Angeles Times noted falling wine sales and mounting surpluses, while questioning the timing of a $23 million investment in a new winery devoted exclusively to sparkling wine.

A sparkling wine producer’s legacy lives on

Thirty-five years later, Boisset is investing in the same property against a remarkably similar backdrop. US wine sales by volume fell by an estimated 2% in 2025, according to Silicon Valley Bank’s 2026 State of the US Wine Industry report. The sector continues to contend with excess inventory and softer demand, while the report also indicated declining tasting-room visits among smaller, hospitality-focused wineries. (The same day the Artesa sale was announced, historic Sonoma winery Gundlach Bundschu filed for Chapter 11.)

‘The challenges facing our industry are real. But my responsibility is to look beyond this moment and help create the future we believe in. America has given me the freedom to dream. These investments express my love for this nation, this state, for Napa Valley, and my commitment to its next chapter in wine,’ France-born Boisset told Decanter.

The Artesa acquisition follows another substantial Napa investment for Boisset. In July, he and his wife, winemaker Gina Gallo-Boisset, reopened Flora Springs Winery in St. Helena after an extensive redesign that incorporated more than five million hand-laid glass mosaic tiles.

Sergio Fuster, CEO of Raventós Codorníu, called Boisset ‘the ideal custodian’ for Artesa, saying his knowledge of the local market would help ‘unlock Artesa’s extraordinary potential even further, while ensuring the continuity of its legacy’.

The vision for Artesa’s future

Originally called Codorníu Napa, the sparkling wine producer was renamed Artesa as its emphasis expanded to still wines, including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the Spanish varieties Albariño and Tempranillo. Boisset intends to build on that sparkling wine history under the Artesa name and through his JCB Collection (which makes nearly two dozen bubblies), while continuing to develop its still wines.

‘Artesa brings extraordinary cooler-climate vineyards, a sparkling wine heritage and an estate home for JCB where my Burgundian roots meet my California dreams,’ Boisset told Decanter. (From Burgundy’s winemaking Boisset family, he and his sister founded Domaine de la Vougeraie before he invested in Sonoma County, with the 2003 purchase of DeLoach.)

Boisset also plans to develop Artesa as a cultural destination combining wine, architecture, nature and contemporary art. Its dramatic hilltop winery, designed by Barcelona architect Domingo Triay, is a stunning visual draw for visitors.

‘The business vision begins with exceptional wines’, Boisset told Decanter. ‘Art, nature, architecture and hospitality broaden the invitation, giving new audiences reasons to discover wine and build a lasting connection with our estates’.

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Fine wine prices have been pretty flat in 2026, although some top names are up slightly over 12 months after a gentle rally in late 2025, said Geraint Carter of international merchant Bordeaux Index and the LiveTrade online trading platform.

Data on prestige Champagne, one of the better-performing market segments, illustrates the point (see table, below). Miles Davis of Vinum Fine Wines offered a similar sentiment: ‘I think overall prices are stable, but it’s still a buyer’s market,’ he said.

‘You can still get deals.’ Vinum saw a notable uptick in Champagne sales in July, Davis said, led by Salon; other top sellers included Cristal Rosé, Krug and Jacques Selosse.

At Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, the multi-region Liv-ex 1000 index was up 1.2% in 12 months to 30 July. Its Champagne 50 sub-index outperformed, rising 0.9% in July and 2.6% in a year.

It was also up 8.7% in five years, although it hasn’t been a straight road.

For example, Liv-ex analysed Salon and said the 2012 vintage was ‘trading actively’ at £7,000 to £8,000 (12x75cl, in bond), noting it was released in 2021 at £5,800 and swiftly climbed to £13,300 before a subsequent market downturn.

Carter said top-tier Champagne has ‘taken its pain’, adding: ‘It’s a great time to be a Champagne buyer with such quality out there.’

Yet, he doesn’t expect prices to surge in the near-term, citing ongoing available stock levels. One general area to watch this autumn is the US auction scene.

Charles Antin, global head of auctions at Zachys, told Decanter that recent sales have been exceptionally strong.

‘We are having to revise our estimates upwards to keep up with a buoyant market, which is a strong sign for sellers.’

Zachys’ mid-year review reported a surge in demand for ‘super second’ Bordeaux this year, including Château Montrose, and stronger collector thirst for leading California wines.

The Bordeaux Index view

Fine wine & spirits specialist Bordeaux Index kindly sponsors this section of Decanter, and provides its view on the market here every issue. It can be found at bordeauxindex.com

Champagne conundrum

The Champagne market finds itself in an awkward, if familiar, position. After the manic exuberance of 2020-2022 and the swingeing correction that followed, prestige Champagne prices have settled into what has the makings of a prolonged rut.

At the mass-market end, things are arguably even less comfortable, with consumption and shipments continuing to decline.

The priority, more than ever, is getting consumers drinking again. In this context, price hikes ought to be off the table. This is not an easy message for the Champenois.

Costs have risen substantially over the past decade, while the increasingly extreme weather of recent years is a clear warning that, over the longer term, Champagne will need higher prices simply to compensate for the volatility of a more challenging production environment.

But that’s longer-term. For now, the stellar vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020 are working through the system and will add considerable supply at the prestige end.

Total volumes may be falling, but that doesn’t automatically create pricing power when demand is, at best, flat and existing stocks remain plentiful.

The finer end cannot indefinitely act as a cash cow for shortcomings in the broader market.

Champagne rarely volunteers restraint; more often, the market imposes it. For now, keeping a lid on prices and getting corks popping ought to be the overwhelming priority.

Higher prices may be inevitable, but not yet.

Auction record for Judgement of Paris wine

A new world record auction price for a California wine that shot to fame in the 1976 Judgement of Paris tasting 50 years ago has been announced by Christie’s.

A bottle of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Stag’s Leap Vineyard (SLV) Cabernet Sauvignon 1973 sold for $22,500 (£16,657), including buyer’s premium, at a Christie’s online auction of wines sourced directly from the Napa Valley producer’s cellars.

That’s a record auction price for the wine, which eclipsed a pre-sale high estimate of $6,000 in the Los Angelesbased sale, Christie’s said.

The 1973 vintage is famous for having outshone top Bordeaux reds in the Judgement of Paris blind tasting organised by Steven Spurrier and Patricia Gallagher in the French capital in 1976.

Half a century later, supplies are relatively scarce. A Christie’s spokesperson told Decanter that, after this year’s 50th anniversary celebrations, there will be 19 bottles of the SLV Cabernet Sauvignon 1973 left at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

Another lies alongside a Californian white wine star of the same tasting, Chateau Montelena 1973, in the Smithsonian collection of American historical artefacts.

Juan Muñoz-Oca, estates director at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, said the recent Christie’s auction result is ‘a powerful testament to the enduring legacy of the 1973 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon and the vision of our founder Warren Winiarski’.

In 2022, Heritage Auctions sold a bottle of the wine for $12,300, a record auction price at the time.

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Washington is the second-largest wine-producing state in the US, with more than 35,000 acres (14,160 hectares) of grapes, nearly 1,000 wineries and 300 growers farming around 80 grape varieties within 21 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).

It makes some of the finest wines in the country, as well as some of the best values.

But how well do you know the state’s geography, appellations, key grape varieties and prominent wineries?

There’s a lot of ground to cover (literally) in Washington wine so we picked 12 questions for a quick snapshot. Challenge yourself with our latest quiz.

Take Decanter's Washington wine quiz

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Judges: Jonathan Cristaldi, Jenica Flippo and Cara Patricia

By any measure, this was a very strong showing for Napa blends, with half the field of 76 rated Outstanding or Exceptional, and all bar four scoring 90 points or more, confirmation that the valley’s long, cool 2023 growing season delivered structured reds (and a few whites) with complex flavours and expressive personalities.

‘There’s good concentration and freshness here,’ Jenica Flippo noted of one top performer – a refrain that echoed across a full day of blind tasting.

Critical to note, these wines fall mostly in the luxury-to-super-luxury tier, priced from US$50 to $100, with one third of the blends above $100 per bottle, so the calibre of submissions was high.

‘I was prepared for a parade of heavyweight Napa wines,’ Flippo admitted at the close of the tasting.

However, she added: ‘I found many wines that truly impressed me and upended my expectations, leaving me genuinely excited about the 2023 vintage.’

While the results were remarkably consistent, the blends were consistently variable, showing how far the ‘Napa red blend’ category has expanded beyond yesterday’s Left Bank Bordeaux-inspired ‘Meritage’ wines.

Napa Valley blends: Panel tasting scores

76 wines tasted blind

Exceptional 2

Outstanding 36

Highly recommended 34

Recommended 3

Commended 1

Learn more about Decanter's blind-tasting process and scoring system.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry, still Napa Valley wines, 2023 reds or 2024 whites, made using more than one grape variety and not labelled as a single-varietal wine

‘This is a wine that can bring Millennials and Gen Z back to Merlot’

Cabernet Sauvignon still led half the wines, but the panel also tasted Merlot-driven cuvées, Sangiovese ‘SuperTuscan’ style wines, Zinfandel field blends, even Tempranillo and a Syrah-Mourvèdre that Cara Patricia likened to ‘a Napa take on a Côtes du Rhône’.

Another Merlot-led red, from Patel, prompted Patricia’s boldest claim: ‘This is a wine that can bring Millennials and Gen Z back to Merlot.’

Where the judges aligned, they aligned emphatically; Miner Family’s The Oracle drew scores within a point of each other.

On the other hand, ripeness proved a dividing force. With the wines’ alcohol levels spanning 12.9% to a heady 16.2%, the panel split over where ripeness tips into excess.

Hill Family Estate’s Like a Hawk at 14.8% alcohol was downright delicious to me; but Patricia noted, ‘I taste the winemaking more than the wine’.

While the number of 2024 whites submitted was small and focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, they held their own in the ratings.

At every price tier, the judges found blends of genuine, pure fruit character, ample structure, freshness and energy.

The judges

See all notes and scores from the Napa Valley blends tasting

19 top Napa Valley blends: Wines that scored 96+ points

Wines were tasted blind

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On 15 July 2026, a single bottle of 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon sold at Christie’s for $22,500 (£16,724) – nearly four times its $6,000 high estimate.

Six weeks earlier, I drank another bottle from the winery’s dwindling library reserves.

It’s one thing to know the story of a wine that changed the course of its region’s history; it’s quite another – and deeply humbling – to taste it.

On 4 June at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars with owner Marchese Piero Antinori, Antinori CEO Renzo Cotarella, Stag’s Leap winemaker Marcus Notaro and two other prominent wine journalists, I was granted the opportunity to drink a couple of glasses of the 1973 Cabernet that is preserved in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History – a bottle that was named among the ‘101 Objects that Made America’.

At the time of our tasting, only 19 bottles reportedly remained at the winery.

Opening a wine time capsule

The wine earned its place in history on 24 May 1976, in a blind tasting of French and California wines organized in Paris by Steven Spurrier and Patricia Gallagher.

With mostly French experts judging, the 1973 S.L.V. finished first among 10 Cabernets from California and Bordeaux.

Notaro took on the task of opening the wine and, with the help of a Durand wine opener and a steady hand, extracted a beautifully intact cork.

Decanting the rare wine was just as nerve-racking, but everyone’s shoulders relaxed at the first sight of the still-dark robes of ruby red wine cascading down the glass, with only subtle bricking in the colour – the first hint that it was in impeccable condition.

Notaro also passed around an original copy of the Time magazine issue in which George Taber’s 'Judgment of Paris' piece appears.

I was shocked to see how short it was: just one column, four paragraphs, nearly run off the page and into the spine by a giant Armstrong Tires advertisement.

‘California defeated all Gaul’, declared the copy, yet astonishingly, in the fourth paragraph, Taber incorrectly identified the winning Stag’s Leap vintage as ‘1972’ instead of 1973!

What of it, I marvelled. A mere footnote, lost to the history of whatever the print circulation was for that one issue.

The full story of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars began when founder Warren Winiarski tasted Nathan Fay’s homemade 1968 Cabernet Sauvignon from the vineyard next door.

In that sample, he found the proof he needed that this corner of Napa could produce Cabernet worthy of fine wine.

Winiarski bought an adjoining prune orchard in 1970 and planted what became Stag’s Leap Vineyard, or S.L.V.

What did the 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet taste like?

As we sipped the ’73, each marvelling over it in our own way, Cotarella explained that the Judgment of Paris–winning wine had come from the third crop of grapes off the new vineyard.

'Young vines can produce extraordinary fruit at that stage, when yields remain naturally low and balanced, before their fourth-leaf ambitions outrun their still-developing roots,' he said.

As for the wine itself, extraordinary scarcely describes what wafted out of my glass. The 1973 offered up rich tobacco, charcuterie and black truffle notes, with sumptuous loamy earth, currant fruit and white pepper.

Yet its defining quality was freshness: a saline acid tension that made the wine feel not merely alive but positively energised.

Drunk with plates of shaved fennel, Hokkaido sea scallops with tarragon beurre blanc, and hanger steak with espresso jus, it kept gathering energy rather than surrendering it.

An accompanying bottle of 1987 S.L.V. was softer, warmer and fleshier, with resolved tannins, incense and currants.

The 1999 S.L.V. offered minty freshness, black fruit and rich tobacco, its beautiful density carried by featherweight tannins.

Together they made a persuasive case that Napa Cabernet’s reputation for longevity should not rest on one miraculous bottle.

Antinori acquired a 15% stake in Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in 2007 and became its sole owner in 2023.

During the luncheon, we also drank the 98-point 2023, the first vintage produced under full Antinori ownership; the wine struck Notaro as distinctly ‘Margaux-like’ with its perfumed violets.

Cotarella, reflecting on the reference to Bordeaux, said simply: ‘We are farmers. We have to control our vineyards to control our quality and style.’

If you could save time in a bottle …

I wish so many of you could have the opportunity to drink something as beautiful as the ’73 S.L.V. And, truthfully – you can.

Find a red wine that you love and store as many bottles as you can, in a cool, darkened place, for as long as you can stand it, if for no other reason than to share a glass with your grandchildren when they come of legal drinking age.

From Napa’s recent decades of wine, I would keep drinking and cellaring 2013 and 2021 for their profound structure and concentration; 2016 and 2019 for their black fruit and loamy earth richness; and 2018 and 2023 for their marriage of concentration and freshness.

As for the 1973 S.L.V., if allowed one final wine before shuffling off this mortal coil, I might choose it.

It was that good.

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As California led the United States to its best year ever at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), the state also marked several milestones in 2026 – including one of its wineries earning Best in Show for its third consecutive year.

‘This year's judging demonstrated the overall high quality coming from the US, giving it a well-earned place in the global wine pantheon,’ said James Tidwell MS, who serves as DWWA Regional Chair for the USA and Central America.

In all, California wineries took home 162 medals – a record for the state – across all categories: Best in Show, Platinum, Gold, Silver and Bronze.

‘The US wine story is becoming broader and more interesting’, commented DWWA Panel Judge Bree Stock MW.

While California’s benchmark varieties reigned in the top tiers of the awards, she said, ‘One of the most exciting developments was seeing newer and less conventional varieties perform with real credibility and a clear sense of place/purpose’.

‘California's Assyrtiko and Moschofilero entries showed freshness and salinity’, she added, ‘with aromatic floral interest, suggesting that the conversation around US wine quality is expanding beyond the classics’.

Grapes from Italy, southwest France and Spain – including Albariño, Cortina, Tannat, Teroldego and Vermentino – all also earned medals.

A three-peat: Clos du Val takes the top award, again

Founded in Napa Valley in the 1970s and now in its third generation of family ownership, Clos du Val earned a Best in Show medal for the third year in a row – and for the second time with its Yettalil blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot from the Stags Leap District. Last year, Clos du Val captured the top accolade with its 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc.

DWWA judges called the 2023 Yettalil ‘powerful and persuasive’ and a wine of ‘notable finesse’, illustrating the strengths of the ideal vintage in Napa Valley; the wine should easily age for a decade or two.

Three’s a charm: The Platinum elite wines

Clos du Val also notched 97 points and a Platinum medal for its 2024 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, which the judges said showed ‘superb varietal expression, shaped by thoughtful barrel influence and aromatic precision’.

California led the country in Platinum medals, with three in total, at 97 points each.

Among them was AvinoDos, with its ‘sumptuous’ 2022 Blanc De Blanc Extra Brut from Los Carneros. It's only the second US sparkling wine ever to receive Platinum at DWWA, after Chandon’s Etoile Brut in 2025.

Representing a new generation of wineries in Napa Valley, AvinoDos is based within the city of Napa, in a business park known as the Grape Crusher District for its collection of boutique wineries.

Owners Dan and Julie Dexter source their grapes only from growers with plots totalling 3.6 hectares or less – a size that, under Napa regulations, prohibits the growers from opening their own wineries.

New Mendocino County producer Brashley, started in 2017 by Ashley and Bram Palm, also impressed the judges with its 2023 Hacienda Sequoia Pinot Noir from an organically farmed vineyard surrounded by redwoods in the cool-climate Anderson Valley. The judges called it ‘a sophisticated Pinot Noir with a European accent.’

‘It’s a thrilling thing for a winery as small as we are’, said Ashley Palm. ‘To know that it was blind tasted so many times and it ended up where it was, it just blows me away. It helps confirm what we are doing – doing everything organically, doing everything by hand.’

Brashley winemaker Ashley Holland added, ‘For Anderson Valley, I know the appellation belongs on the world stage. I’ve worked so many places around the world. It is truly a phenomenal site for Pinot Noir.’

She describes the 0.8-hectare (2 acres), dry-farmed Hacienda Sequoia site, which sits on 100,000-year-old sandstone, as singular.

‘I knew when the wine was fermenting that it was really extraordinary. We used to waft the top of the fermentor because it smelled so good’.

Golden State Gold medals: Values and firsts

California collected 13 Gold medals in 2026, with two of the wines receiving 96 points from the judges: Sonoma County winery Marimar Estate’s ‘plush and zesty’ 2024 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley and Napa Valley producer Nichelini’s ‘vivid’ 2023 Petite Sirah. Nichelini’s 2024 Reserve Zinfandel earned another Gold and 95 points.

The state also secured the country’s only one of the 35 Top Value Gold medals given out this year, honouring the best wines globally in the under £15 (or $20) category.

That went to the plump, juicy 2025 Sonoma County rosé (95) from Angels & Cowboys, a winery founded in 2014 by Israel-born Yoav Gilat, who has started a handful of wine brands to fill what he saw as a gap in the market: high-quality California wines for $20 or less.

Angels & Cowboys winemaker Ondine Chattan described her reaction as one of ‘elation and gratitude’ that their delicate rosé, which she says has a ‘distinctive fruity/savoury interplay’, was recognized by the judges.

‘It is so rewarding to have one of my wines appreciated and understood for its style,’ she said, adding that she is grateful for ‘all our grape growers and winery team members who assisted at every step of the process to deliver the style and quality we set out to produce’.

Three other wines were designated as Value Golds at 95 points: Clos du Bois’s ‘indulgent’ 2024 California Chardonnay, Asda’s ‘gorgeous’ 2024 Exceptional Zinfandel from Lodi and Mina Mesa’s ‘flamboyant’ 2024 Zinfandel from Paso Robles region, which brought the region another Gold medal after an earlier win in 2022.

The Cienega Valley AVA, in western San Benito County within the Central Coast, celebrated its first DWWA Gold medals with Eden Rift’s 2023 Terraces Chardonnay, which has a ‘gorgeous penetrating acidity’, and ‘deeply concentrated’ 2023 Lansdale Slope Pinot Noir.

In another indication of the exceptional quality of Napa’s 2023 vintage, three varietally labelled Cabernet Sauvignons earned Golds: Navigator with its 2023 Napa Valley bottling, SOM’s 2023 Beckstoffer Bourn Vineyard selection from St. Helena and kosher wine producer Herzog Wine Cellars’s 2023 Special Edition from Rutherford.

On the Sonoma Coast, Three Sticks earned the award with its ‘deftly crafted’ 2024 Gap’s Crown Chardonnay.

A global guide to excellence: Decanter’s annual wine awards

Launched 23 years ago, DWWA has become the world’s largest wine competition, recognised as a global standard for quality.

The Awards combine international reach with a commitment to sustainability, a transparent tasting process and unsurpassed judging expertise. Of the 245 judges in 2026, more than one-third of them were Masters of Wine or Master Sommeliers.

‘The results of Decanter World Wine Awards are valuable because they provide both consumers and producers with a trusted and easily recognisable guide to quality in a crowded global wine market,’ explained DWWA Co-Chair Ronan Sayburn MS.

DWWA awards five tiers of medals: the 50 Best in Show – which represented just 0.3% of wines tasted this year – then Platinum and Gold (all scoring 95+ points), Silver and Bronze. In 2026, US wines won a total of 466 medals – nearly double the country’s previous highest tally.

Although California, Oregon and Washington remain the leading states, the 2026 awards reflected the diversity of wine within the US.

Texas took home its first Gold medals with four wines that show what the state can achieve with Portuguese, Spanish and southwestern French reds: Souzao, Tannat, Tempranillo and a Tempranillo-Petit Verdot blend.

Virginia added five more Golds, following two strong years in 2025 and 2024, with Cabernet Franc and Viognier among the standouts, along with blends containing Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Pennsylvania also achieved its third straight year with a Gold medal – this time for a Chambourcin, a hybrid grape that does well in cooler climates. Wineries in Massachusetts, Missouri, Colorado and North Carolina claimed Silver medals.

The full list of 2026 winners from around the world can be found at awards.decanter.com.

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Sure, the United States hasn’t been making wine since ancient times from vineyards studiously plotted out over the centuries by monks. But the country has packed plenty of wine accomplishments into its 250 years of existence, thanks to all the European settlers who couldn’t tolerate life in the New World without a good drink.

From the earliest explorers to more recent immigrants, people have turned to both native grapes and imported European varieties to see which can make the best wines ‘from California to the New York island’.

While the most important events in the founding of our country were fuelled by imported wine, American winemakers and viticulturists have since proven sceptics wrong, shocked French wine judges, resurrected near-dead wineries and lured prestigious European wine companies into expanding to the States.

How much do you know about US wine history, from the colonial era up to the early 1990s? Find out with our 14-question challenge.

Take our US wine history quiz

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No stranger to sweltering New York summers, Sydney Fusto finds relief in zesty, high-acid wines. 'You want something that’s going to really wake up your palate and get your saliva moving, and the key is really fresh, zippy acidity,' she says.

With regards to seasonal food pairings, Fusto shares her love of Sauvignon Blanc, especially when sipped with citrus, cilantro, or anything with a hint of spice (think ceviche, crudo, and other raw bar favorites). If grilled meats and veggies are on the menu, she looks to darker-hued rosés and chillable reds, especially those made from Grenache, Gamay, and other high-acid varieties.

For crisp summer produce, crunchy pickled veggies, or when she’s really not sure what she’s in the mood for, Fusto usually lands on easy-drinking bubbles.

'When I don’t know what to drink, I reach for something sparkling,' she says, highlighting the versatile and spunky personality of Prosecco.

From budget-friendly bubbly to refreshing whites, rosés and chillable reds, Fusto’s following bottle recommendations promise to keep you satiated all summer long.

Fusto's five wines to sip this summer

Sommariva Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut NV

'When it's 100+ F in New York and I'm sticking to my clothes, I am not looking to think too hard, ball out, or show off–I want bubbles that are easy-going, juicy and straightforward,' she says. The answer? An ice-cold bottle of high-quality Prosecco, particularly the Superiore Brut NV from Sommariva. 'It has the lip-smacking tart juiciness of a fresh Granny Smith apple, delicate white floral aromas and zingy acidity to keep everything playful and bright,' Fusto says. 'Think of it like the sparkling equivalent of a refreshing glass of lemonade. It’s so pleasurable, you could drink it all day long–no need to be super cerebral about this.'

Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024

In the words of Fusto, haters need not apply here. 'Sauvignon Blanc is "that girl" and always will be,' she says, citing the signature herbaceousness and distinct citrus notes synonymous with wines made from it. Additionally, Fusto notes that Sauvignon Blanc-based wines typically have high acidity, making them perfect for summer fare, as well as cracking open and sipping solo on a hot day. 'I’ve been drinking Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc nonstop, and I even pour it by the glass at Manhatta – yes, I said New Zealand,' she says, highlighting the wine’s unique, savory curry leaf and Thai basil aromas, as well as its long, salty finish. 'It’s a showstopper,' she affirms.

Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2023

Rosé and summer go hand in hand, and for Fusto, Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2023 has become a go-to. Crafted entirely from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape, this vibrantly colored wine oozes with flavors of pomegranate, sour cherry, blood orange, and Mediterranean herbs–though don’t let its dark hue fool you. Contrary to the numerous myths surrounding rosé, darker-hued bottles don’t mean sweet or heavy. 'The wine is lifted and drinkable like a white, but has more stuffing and concentration than a lighter, less extracted rosé style,' she says. 'I highly recommend it with barbecue.'

Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024

During her time at Cote, Fusto discovered her passion for pairing rosé and grilled meats, especially less rich cuts. 'I used to be more or less indifferent to rosé, as I would typically reach for a chilled red if I wanted some substance; however, I’ve since come to enjoy the summer spoils of a juicy grilled skirt or hangar steak with a darker, more full-bodied rosé,' she says, emphasizing that textured, fuller-bodied expressions produced with a bit more extraction – like Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024 – work best here. Crafted from a Mourvèdre-dominant blend, the wine’s structured body and complex notes of red fruits, juicy citrus, and salty sea air come to life when paired with equally savory summer meats.

Domaine Giacometti 'Sempre Cuntenu' 2024

Come warm weather months, Fusto reveals that Manhatta’s customers can’t get enough of chillable reds, though not all bottles are created equal. 'A chillable red wine should have a higher acidity-to-tannin profile (or softer tannins in general) and a fruit-forward, juicy flavor profile,' she says. While Beaujolais is a classic option, she’s been reaching for light Corsican reds made from the Sciacarello grape. 'This bottle offers a great bang for your buck and absolutely sings with a chill,' she says, stating that wine has become a non-negotiable fridge staple for her. 'It's great with food, it's great alone. Sempre Cuntenu literally translates to "happy wine" in the Corsican dialect, and I couldn't agree more.'

Summer is made for exploration

Above all, Fusto states that summer is one of the best times to experiment with regions and varieties, thanks to the season’s light-hearted, laid-back nature.

Currently, she’s diving deeper into the wine regions of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, as well as the appellations of coastal California. 'There are a ton of premium producers in these areas, and you’re also going to get a lot more value for your money,' she says. 'Trust me, there are so many bangers to be found at solid entry points.'

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Driving the highways just west of Washington, D.C., you’ll see monuments and museums on one side, corporate offices and government buildings on the other. But after a short while, the offices become trees, the monuments become cascading mountains. You end up on a dirt road, among vines, views and stillness.

A wine weekend in Northern Virginia is one where you can do it all. That sounds like a big statement, but Northern Virginia has a distinct advantage over many other U.S. wine regions: geographical convenience. Flying into Dulles International Airport places visitors within a 20- to 30-minute drive of premium wineries in Loudoun County and the Middleburg AVA. This makes the region one of the most accessible wine destinations in the country.

The proximity to D.C., brings with it a level of flexibility for itineraries, especially for groups who want to intersperse wine tasting with other activities. Visitors can spend the morning tasting distinctive wines, enjoy a museum or nature in the afternoon and experience fine dining in the evening. This seamless partnership between rural agribusiness and urban nightlife makes for a weekend worth a trip.

Virginia wine and fine dining are big draws

In 2024, Virginia attracted nearly 45 million visitors who spent more than $35bn across the state, putting it in the top 10 of U.S. tourism economies. Food and beverage made up nearly 30% – nearly $10 billion – of total spending that year. Northern Virginia accounted for close to half of both the food and beverage spending (around $4.2bn) and total spending (about $16bn).

“For the most part, a traveler wants to know, ‘Where can I go drink wine, enjoy beautiful scenic views, and find fun things to do nearby?’ For us, it's about selling the experience and why we're different,” said Juliana Thomas, director of communications for the Virginia Tourism Corporation. She and her team build itineraries that give travellers a way to experience all of the things the state has to offer, even when wine is the main focus of the trip.

‘There are some really unique spots that pair beautifully with a sophisticated wine audience,‘ Thomas noted about Northern Virginia. ‘I think of the National Sporting Library and Museum in Middleburg, staying at the Goodstone Inn, or eating at the historic Red Fox Inn & Tavern or the nationally recognised Red Truck Bakery. There is so much to discover right next to the vineyards.‘

Wineries to suit many interests: from Bull Run to Stone Tower

Northern Virginia is now home to more than 110 wineries, accounting for more than a third of the state’s 300-plus wineries and encompassing some of its top names. The region spans the area from the Potomac River west to the Blue Ridge Mountains, including Loudoun and Fauquier Counties and beyond. The land is diverse, with elevations from 400 feet to 1,900 feet and soils ranging from greenstone and granite along the mountains to sand, silt and shale farther east.

Working together, winegrowers and producers have helped the area evolve. ‘Ten years ago, our focus was entirely on baseline quality, ensuring wines weren't flawed or structurally reduced. Today, the shift is phenomenal,’ says Aimee Henkle, owner of Lost Creek Winery and treasurer of the Loudoun Wineries & Winegrowers Association. As Loudoun County expands to 50 wineries, the organization is now focused on telling a more nuanced story – one focused on subregional identity and a sense of place.

Wineries in Northern Virginia are as diverse as they are accessible, serving a range of interests. For the wine lover who is passionate about history, the Winery at Bull Run is perfect, sitting between a battle post and wartime hospitals from the two major Battles of Bull Run during the Civil War. The winery offers a wide array of varietal wines and blends, including Cabernet Franc and Norton, a hybrid grape first grown in Virginia.

A visit to Stone Tower winery feels like leaving D.C. for Napa Valley. Its unobstructed views of the Blue Ridge Mountains allow the 400-acre property to dazzle visitors. The views are matched only by the impressive hospitality of the friendly, knowledgeable staff, who host ‘somminar’ wine education events in the evening. Stop in for a tasting or grab a glass of their estate sparkling wine, Chardonnay or Nebbiolo.

Northern Virginia’s fine-wine history: Linden Vineyards

After Prohibition, Virginia didn’t begin to rebuild its wine industry until the mid-1970s. Pioneers like Italy-born Gabriele Rausse, who planted vitis vinifera to help launch Barboursville Vineyards near Charlottesville, and Burgundy-trained winemaker and consultant Michael Shaps, who also opened the first contract winemaking facility in the state in 2007, paved the way for the modern era in Northern Virginia.

When Linden Vineyards opened in 1988 in the Blue Ridge Mountains, it helped define the state’s style and chart a path forward. Founder and winemaker Jim Law is known as the architect of modern Virginia wine. He pushed the state away from casual, tourism-focused operations towards the terroir-driven, scientific standards that drive the state’s winemaking today, introducing site-specific viticulture and single-vineyard wines.

Law also mentored notable Northern Virginia winemakers, including Rutger de Vink of the famed RdV Vineyards (now under French ownership and renamed Lost Mountain) and Jeff White of Glen Manor.

Today, Linden boasts 72 acres under vine, spread across three properties. The space continues to focus more on quiet, educational, immersive experiences rather than entertainment and events. Check out their Hardscrabble Chardonnay, Petit Manseng and Bordeaux blends. The Chardonnay vines sit on well-drained, volcanic-based greenstone, which gives the wine a distinct minerality and the complexity and structure to age for a decade or more.

A new generation of winemakers: Walsh Family

The contributions of Law, Rausse and Shaps ushered in a new wave of winemakers, including Matthieu Finot of King Family Vineyards and Maya Hood White of Early Mountain Vineyards in the Charlottesville area. In Northern Virginia, this second generation is well represented by Nate Walsh of Walsh Family Wines.

Walsh Family clearly takes inspiration from Linden, focusing on expressing the local terroir and bringing it into the tasting room with side-by-side comparisons that make it clear why site-specific viticulture matters to the end result. ‘For example, we bottle our Sauvignon Blanc from different vineyard sites. When guests taste the wines and experience those differences firsthand, it’s a light-bulb moment. Terroir shifts from being an abstract wine term to something tangible and easy to understand,’ says Walsh Family founder Sarah Bryant Walsh and Nate’s wife.

For an intriguing tasting experience, compare the following two pairs at Walsh. For whites, look for the Sauvignon Blancs from the Bethany Ridge and Twin Notch Farm vineyards. Bethany Ridge sits on shallow, stony soils and its wines tend to be ripe and more textured, while Twin Notch’s silty loam results in a leaner, crisp and aromatic profile. For reds, try the mineral-driven, structured Cabernet Franc from Dutchman’s Creek against the softer, more fruit-forward version from Twin Notch Farm.

Going high-end and more exclusive: Crimson Lane

As the D.C. metro area consistently ranks as one of the wealthiest regions in the country, that has created a demand for luxury experiences and elevated tasting spaces. Wineries like Crimson Lane are working to meet this demand.

This winery is uphill from Linden Vineyards, with 160 acres of forest and views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The tasting room is clean, sleek and modern, designed by Napa-based architects to distinguish itself from other wineries in the state.

Visiting Crimson Lane requires a reservation, with a maximum of six guests per reservation, ranging from $45 tastings to a $110 tasting of the full portfolio. The winery focuses on low-yield, high-elevation grape growing, only producing about 4,000 cases per year, which go to wine club members and special events. The winery is known for its rich, bold, red blends, Collina and Parral. Both boast concentrated dark fruit, with ripe tannins and acidity that provides a great balance.

Crimson Lane serves as a compelling example of the contrasts in Northern Virginia wine country, with its proximity to the big-city amenities of D.C. and the charms of small-town life near the Blue Ridge Mountains.

While wine lovers can spend hours exploring the area’s sense of place through the vineyards and in their glasses, they can also keep their whole family or group of friends happy enjoying Virginia hospitality, American historical and cultural sites, music, hiking and other nature activities. This combination turns a wine weekend into an unforgettable adventure for all.

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The Texas High Plains does not look like most visitors’ idea of wine country. It is broad, flat and exposed, a place of cotton fields, caliche soils, hard winds, spring frost and summer hail. For many wine drinkers, the region may barely register at all. Yet this high, dry plateau around Lubbock and Brownfield grows more than 80% of the grapes that become Texas wine.

Far to the south, in the pastoral rolling limestone hills around Fredericksburg, visitors sip those wines under live oaks and string lights, often unaware that a bottle of Texas wine frequently begins in one landscape and is sold in another. The industry is unusually dependent on relationships between growers and wineries separated by more than 644 kilometres.

‘The High Plains is just such a wonderful place’, says Remi Immler, head winemaker at Becker Vineyards, one of Texas Hill Country’s legacy wineries and a significant buyer of High Plains fruit. ‘You have this high, dry, desert climate where you can grow a lot of wonderful varieties: Italian, Spanish, Bordeaux and really beautiful whites. They all just do so well up there’.

Texas wine has been called ‘emerging’ for so long that the word has begun to obscure more than it explains. Today, with stronger ratings from critics and growing international recognition, the state’s wine industry is better understood as established but still misunderstood. The question is whether the long-distance agricultural system behind its quality can endure.

Better grapes, but lower demand

That system has always required trust. Grapes grown in the High Plains shape wines poured in Hill Country tasting rooms, and relationships built over years on handshakes and repeated harvests have long held the system together.

During the early years of the pandemic, many Texas wineries saw sales surge as consumers bought more wine to drink at home. ‘From 2020 into early 2023, we couldn’t keep wine on the shelf’, says Ron Yates, owner of Ron Yates Wines and Spicewood Vineyards. Wineries bought grapes aggressively, growers responded to that demand, and higher prices followed. Then consumer sales softened, inventories backed up, and growers had fruit in the vineyard with fewer buyers ready to commit.

‘The irony is that 2025 might be one of the best vintages we’ve ever seen in Texas’, Yates says. ‘It was cooler, the storms dropped the temperatures at the right time, we didn’t add a single grain of tartaric acid, and yet a lot of that beautiful fruit struggled to find a buyer’.

The weather this spring may have countered that two-year dip in demand. A freeze across both the High Plains and Hill Country on 17 March significantly lowered yields, particularly among white varieties. Several growers and winemakers see the short crop as a painful but potentially useful reset, helping bring supply back into balance.

This is the paradox defining the High Plains right now. The region is not struggling because Texas failed to improve. Many winemakers argue the opposite: the best High Plains fruit is better understood, better farmed and more important than ever. But quality alone cannot stabilise a farming economy.

The pressures of High Plains viticulture

High Plains grapegrowers have always faced weather challenges. Spring frost, hail, wind, drought and synthetic pesticide drift from nearby row-crop agriculture are part of the region’s reality. But recent pressure has come as much from the market as from the sky. Wineries with excess inventory have pulled back on grape purchases. Multi-year contracts have become less common. Some buyers wait until harvest to see what fruit can be found on the spot market at a lower price.

For Katy Jane Seaton of Farmhouse Vineyards, that uncertainty directly affects how she farms. ‘The High Plains is always going to carry on quality for the same old reasons’, she asserts. ‘We’re a region of generational farmers. Many of these families farmed row crops for generations before planting vineyards. It’s agriculture for a living, here’.

But agriculture requires planning and capital. At Farmhouse, fully contracted blocks receive the premium program: nutrition, hand work, pruning and detailed canopy care. Blocks with likely buyers get solid but reduced attention. Uncontracted fruit receives only enough care to keep vines healthy.

‘If it was contracted, you got an A-plus farming plan’, she says. ‘If it wasn’t contracted, we give nutrition down the drip line, and that’s it’.

From one of the state’s largest and most diverse High Plains properties, Akhil Reddy of Reddy Vineyards sees the same fragility. His father, Vijay Reddy, planted the family’s first vines near Brownfield in 1997 and later added a winery. Akhil grew up around the farms, became a dentist, built practices, and eventually returned full-time to vineyard and winery life. Today, the vineyard spans just under 162 hectares, with 38 grape varieties.

For Reddy, diversity is both ambition and insurance: the dozens of varieties, clones and more than 100 blocks are designed to absorb Texas volatility. Freeze, hail, heat and market shifts rarely affect everything equally.

Still, he is candid about the economics. ‘It’s extremely hard to farm and to make a profit’, Reddy says. ‘And then it’s extremely hard to make really great wine, but you can only do that with really great fruit. And what’s even harder is selling the wine’.

Looking beyond Texas’ borders

If wine does not sell, grapes do not sell; if grapes do not sell, vineyards lose investment. For Reddy, one answer is professionalization. The handshake culture of earlier decades no longer feels sufficient, so he now uses formal grape contracts, including deposits to ensure buyers have ‘skin in the game’.

Connor Wilmeth, vineyard manager at Lahey Vineyards, is also pushing beyond old assumptions. At 33, he oversees roughly 405 hectares of vines and brings a row-crop marketing background to grapes. Much of his crop goes to wineries such as McPherson Cellars and Becker Vineyards, but he has also been driving to East Coast states, introducing Texas grapes, juice and wine to buyers that already source from California and South America. For many East Coast buyers, Texas also offers a shorter freight route than California.

‘I try to apply my experience in the row-crop industry’, Wilmeth says. ‘I was on the board of a cotton marketing cooperative that merchandises cotton all over the world, and for me the question was, why are we only selling grapes locally’?

He understands the importance of strengthening Texas wine, but he also has a business to run. Rather than leaving fruit to rot when local demand softens, Wilmeth argues that Texas should compete where it has advantages: its proximity to eastern markets and its broad range of prestigious vinifera grape varieties.

That idea has support from Kim McPherson of McPherson Cellars, one of the few prominent producers making wine in the High Plains itself. After decades working with regional growers while building a brand that sells beyond the tasting room, McPherson argues that the next chapter depends on wider distribution and wines that can compete outside the state’s local markets.

Seeking a succession plan

Several growers who helped build the High Plains’ reputation are now trying to transition out of the business. Jet Wilmeth of Wilmeth Family Vineyards is retiring; Andy Timmons of Lost Draw Cellars has reduced the acreage he farms; and families such as the Binghams and Newsoms are considering how to carry important vineyard sites into the next phase.

Neal Newsom, whose vineyard has long been regarded by winemakers as one of the state’s benchmark sites, is not pessimistic. Last year, he says, was one of his worst for moving fruit, but demand has improved.

‘I’m not worried about the industry’, says Newsom. ‘This is at least my third or fourth rodeo when it comes to these types of challenges. It’s going to come back; it is already happening’.

His personal question is succession. Over 70 years old, he wants to slow down without walking away, ideally by finding a working partner with enough local presence and financial resources to help carry the vineyard forward.

For wineries that depend on Newsom fruit, the transition is critical. Mike Nelson, winemaker and co-founder of Ab Astris, considers Newsom one of the state’s benchmark farmers. ‘Growers like Neal Newsom prove what’s possible in the High Plains’, he says. ‘But that old guard is aging out, and we need others to continue his level of work’.

Making and keeping connections

Despite this pullback from pioneering growers, others, such as Tony and Madonna Phillips of Phillips Vineyard, are choosing to stay in. Last year, despite a substantial decrease in demand, the Phillipses were able to place their 2025 crop.

‘It took a lot of phone calls and emails, but we found a home for every grape in our vineyard,’ Madonna Phillips says.

For Tony, grapes remain different from other crops such as cotton or peanuts. ‘When you grow and sell cotton, you have no connection to where that cotton ends up’, Phillips says. ‘The grapes we grow show up as wine in a bottle, often with our vineyard name on it. We can share that with friends and family’.

That emotional connection helps explain why many High Plains growers still believe the work is worth doing.

Chris Brundrett, CEO and co-founder of William Chris Vineyards, sees the current market as a correction, not a collapse. The best growers and most committed wineries will align more closely. But he also warns wineries against exploiting the short-term situation. ‘It’s a buyer’s market today, but that’s not going to last forever’, Brundrett says. ‘How we got to where we are today isn’t by win-lose on the grower side. It’s got to be win-win’.

Immler, 29, brings a younger voice to that same idea. Her focus at Becker in the years ahead is on direct communication: honest reports from growers, honest feedback from wineries, and earlier conversations when weather, quality or cash flow change the plan. ‘It has to be built on relationships’, she says.

For Texas wine to keep moving forward, the Hill Country and High Plains must remain connected not only by refrigerated trucks and purchase agreements, but by a shared understanding of what each side makes possible.

The correction in the High Plains is real. Yet it is also revealing the industry’s strengths: growers willing to rethink markets, families choosing to commit to the difficulty of managing vineyards, wineries still betting on High Plains fruit, and a younger generation interested in building something durable.

Texas has already shown it can make compelling wine. Its next test is whether the long-distance relationships underlying those wines can become as mature as the best bottles now suggest.

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Robert Mondavi has done it again – or rather, his enduring vision has. The man himself died in 2008, at 94, more than four decades after a falling-out with his brother pushed him to leave the family’s Charles Krug winery and start his own – a move considered radical, verging on foolhardy, to some in Napa Valley at the time.

Six decades later, the same instinct is on display again, this time backed by a far bigger check.

Robert Mondavi Winery has reopened its original Oakville estate after a three-year renovation that owner Constellation Brands calls the most significant transformation of the property since it was founded in 1966. That’s not an overstatement.

The doors officially opened on 20 April 2026, timed to the winery’s 60th anniversary. Constellation has not confirmed the final cost, but industry estimates have put the investment at around US$200 million.

I attended the opening celebration, capped off with a humble performance by Grammy–winning singer-songwriter John Legend, and came away with one clear impression: even with hundreds of guests moving through the property that night, the redesigned space retained a cozy, upscale intimacy that is difficult to engineer at such scale.

In the weeks around the event, I also interviewed the winery’s key figures separately – head winemaker Kurtis Ogasawara, winemaker emerita Geneviève Janssens, director of vineyard operations Blake Wood and brand marketing director Peggy Hemphill – and became the first wine critic to taste with Ogasawara inside the new cellar.

A wine cellar built for precision and site expression

The new To Kalon Cellar introduces optical sorting, gravity-flow systems, temperature-controlled fermentation vessels and rooms for warming or cooling barrels, allowing for smaller, more precise lots from the estate’s 178-hectare portion of To Kalon Vineyard, which gained CCOF organic certification in 2023.

This fancy new winery is missing one big thing (well, a few big things): the 16-ton oak vats that were used for more than three decades to ferment and age Mondavi’s top Cabernets, including lots from To Kalon.

They were repurposed into the wooden ceilings throughout the facility.

‘We’ve added smaller stainless steel and concrete tanks to be able to isolate vineyard blocks and sections at ideal ripeness’, Ogasawara said. ‘Our goal is to push ourselves every vintage and continue to make wines that stand beside the greatest in the world’.

The cellar also puts production on display for visitors, he added, and has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the vineyard: ‘Guests can see harvest activities firsthand and get a better understanding of what it takes to craft wines.’

To Kalon Vineyard itself is undergoing a renovation of sorts. ‘We are replanting a portion of the vineyard this year, about four percent’, said Blake Wood, director of vineyard operations.

‘We’ve replanted a bit more than one-third of the vineyard in the past decade now, focusing on highlighting the various micro-terroirs’.

Individual stars

The To Kalon grapes are now split across four labels under the Constellation umbrella: Robert Mondavi Winery, Schrader Cellars and Double Diamond (both led by winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown), and To Kalon Vineyard Company (Tony Biagi).

Each operates independently, with its own picking decisions.

‘There are blocks that are exclusive to one another and some blocks that we share’, Ogasawara said. ‘We taste each other’s wines and share different perspectives to ensure we are staying on top of our game’.

Janssens, who trained under Robert Mondavi himself, still sits in on blending. ‘Geneviève joins blending sessions to give her thoughts and holds us accountable’, Ogasawara said.

‘It's amazing to have her experience and palate in the room to ensure we are following what Robert Mondavi had intended’.

Architecturally, the project, led by Aidlin Darling Design with interiors by BAMO, preserves architect Cliff May's original arch and tower while adding a new hospitality wing: the light-filled Vineyard Room and terraces for most guests, the restored Tower Library and Barrel Room for private tastings, and the new To Kalon Collective tasting room.

Outside, a linear water feature echoes the valley’s old agricultural aqueducts, and landscaping by Surfacedesign folds the property into its surroundings so thoroughly that indoors and outdoors barely feel separate.

Tasting fees don’t break the bank

Perhaps the smartest innovation is in the decision not to charge extortionist fees to visitors in a region where entry-level tastings often carry luxury price tags and fees can range from $85 to $300.

For the Mondavi wines, Hemphill explained: ‘Our tasting experiences range from $60 to $150 per person. We also welcome walk-in guests for any of our experiences, as availability allows’.

The signature culinary offering, The Mondavi Table, is a three-course, family-style, wine-and-food pairing for $95 per person – notably affordable for a chef-driven, estate menu in Napa Valley today.

‘We believe true luxury is defined by the quality of the experience, not by exclusivity’, Hemphill said.

The To Kalon Collective is the newest experiential room, where the focus is entirely on the iconic vineyard rather than a single producer and private tastings cost $180 to $195.

‘Most people only ever experience [To Kalon Vineyard] through a single producer or a single wine,’ Hemphill said.

‘The To Kalon Collective brings together wines sourced from To Kalon Vineyard, including Robert Mondavi Winery alongside Schrader Cellars, Double Diamond and the To Kalon Vineyard Company, to tell a broader story about place’.

The idea, she explained, is to provide context – showing how vineyard blocks, farming and winemaking philosophy shape different wines from one renowned vineyard.

Blending winemaking and culture

When pressed again about the renovation costs, Hemphill shifts the focus of the question: ‘For us, it’s about creating an exceptional experience for our guests that can continue to raise the bar for hospitality here in Napa, much the way Robert Mondavi did when he first opened this winery’.

That’s the point. Yes, they ‘want this winery to continue to stand the test of time’, and yes, they want to ‘honour our legacy’, and yes, they want to ‘deliver against the values and vision under which the winery was founded’, and all that marketing speak.

But the real reason – even if they can’t express it themselves – is that they want people to come back to Napa and have an experience that creates real memories, without walking away wondering if they spent too much money.

Pointedly, the reopening comes during a challenging moment for the wine world, with an ongoing barrage of reports about falling consumption and industry layoffs, amplified by anecdotal conversations re-hashing those doom-and-gloom stories.

‘I flatly reject the idea that wine culture is heading for extinction’, said Hemphill. ‘What we are witnessing right now isn’t a funeral; it’s a massive cultural evolution. The next generation of consumers doesn’t want the stuffy, velvet-rope exclusivity of the past. They want authenticity, values that align with their own, and incredible, unpretentious experiences’.

The reopening is meant to make Mondavi ‘that loudspeaker for Napa’ again, she said, by ‘blending world-class winemaking with contemporary [wine] culture.’

Passing the winemaking baton

Another momentous shift for Robert Mondavi Winery is the passing of the torch to winemaker Kurtis Ogasawara, who is not only one of the nicest people you’ll meet in Napa Valley, but one of the most humble.

Ogasawara has spent more than a decade working in the cellars alongside Janssens, who was named director of production at Opus One in 1989 and director of winemaking at Mondavi in 1997.

‘He understands that a great winemaker doesn’t try to force their own signature onto a legendary terroir’, Janssens says of Ogasawara, ‘but rather listens to the land to bring out its purest elegance and power. There is no one more deeply rooted in our winemaking philosophy than Kurtis to lead us forward’.

Tasting with Ogasawara in the new cellar gave me a front-row seat to his frame of mind. Yes, he has big shoes to fill. Huge shoes, in fact. But he’s more than ready – confident and sure of himself.

And, to extract a new era of wines from Mondavi’s grape sources, he has a new cellar full of shiny new tanks and concrete vats designed to emphasise fruit – or, more fittingly, place.

‘I see it as continuing the mission to create wines that stand beside the greatest in the world’, Ogasawara said.

‘I have worked with and learned from some of Napa Valley’s best winemakers, from Geneviève Janssens and Andy Erickson to Thomas Brown and Tony Biagi. I promise to never settle and keep pushing to see what else we can accomplish’.

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Oregon and Washington helped lead the United States to its best performance ever at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) in 2026, with an Oregon Pinot Noir earning one of only 50 Best in Show medals awarded globally. In addition, a Washington winery claimed its second consecutive Platinum award – the second vintage in a row that its Cabernet Franc has notched that honour.

The Awards helped solidify the reputations of two established Pacific Northwest appellations in particular, as their wines showed ‘a strong level of consistency’, according to Oregon-based DWWA Panel Judge Bree Stock MW. ‘Oregon’s best Pinot Noirs were very compelling, particularly from established Willamette Valley sub-AVAs such as Dundee Hills, where the wines showed aromatic definition, layered spice and the capacity to age’.

The Washington wine submissions showed ‘real strength and perform well, with Walla Walla Valley standing out for Cabernet Franc and Syrah that has depth, savoury complexity and a clear regional voice’, Stock added. ‘Royal Slope Riesling was another bright point’.

Oregon excellence: Pinot Noir, Cabernet and white wines

Domaine Serene, one of Oregon’s top producers, took home Best in Show – given to just 0.3% of the nearly 17,000 wines tasted in 2026 – for its 2023 Aspect Pinot Noir. The wine is sourced from the winery’s highest-elevation estate vineyards in the Dundee Hills, one of Willamette Valley’s prime winegrowing appellations. In fact, every one of the previous three Best in Show winners from Oregon (in the 2016, 2020 and 2023 competitions) has been a Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills.

The judges gave Aspect a score of 97 points, noting its ‘impressive craftsmanship’, ‘outstanding fruit’, supple palate and ‘textbook Dundee Hills aromatics of cherry cola and sassafras’. Domaine Serene also earned a Gold medal and 96 points for its ‘seductive’ 2023 Grace Vineyard Pinot Noir, a single-vineyard bottling from its Evenstad Estate, as well as Silver medals for three other Pinot Noirs and two sparkling wines.

To be recognised with a collection of medals ‘is deeply meaningful to our entire vineyard and winemaking team’, said Michael Fay, Domaine Serene’s vice president of winemaking and viticulture. ‘These awards reflect our commitment to wines expressing the character of the Dundee Hills and Willamette Valley while representing the world-class quality Oregon brings to Pinot Noir and sparkling wine. This recognition gives us an important opportunity to introduce more consumers to our wines and the remarkable region we are proud to call home’.

Another 2023 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, an ‘elegant’ and ‘stylish’ selection from Alexana’s sustainably farmed estate vineyard, won a Platinum medal, scoring 97 points. ‘I see it as a high water mark for us,’ said general manager Jeff Lewis.

‘It’s the coalescence of so many things’ – including the work of new head winemaker Tresider Burns, new director of viticulture Drew Herman, the estate’s conversion to organic farming and a shift in winemaking approach.

Being recognised as ‘one of the great wines of the world’, Lewis added, ‘is a validation of the direction in which our team – in terms of farming and winemaking – had been evolving after 20 years, continuing to push ourselves in a really meaningful way to make wines of unique personalities that express what we feel is so special about Alexana and the Dundee Hills’.

Oregon wineries also collected three other Gold medals, for a total of four, including for Amaterra’s excitingly complex 2022 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (96 points) and Watermill’s rich, supple 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (95) from The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater in Walla Walla Valley, where Bordeaux varieties and Syrah thrive. And bhn’s compelling, layered, off-dry Oregon Riesling 2023 (95) became the first orange wine from the state to receive Gold at DWWA.

In all, the state racked up 72 medals, a new high.

Washington wine winners: Walla Walla and Wahluke Slope reds

Washington winery Echolands earned a Platinum for its ‘lush,’ ‘harmonious’ 2023 Blue Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Franc (97), from one of the coolest sites on the Washington side of Walla Walla Valley. This follows the same wine’s Platinum success last year for the 2022 vintage – quite an achievement for a winery that was founded in 2018 and released its first wines in 2020.

‘The Walla Walla AVA is an incredible place in the world to grow winegrapes’, said Echolands winemaker and general manager Brian Rudin. ‘There is a great diversity of options for winemakers: the higher-elevation, cooler and silt-laden slopes are a sweet spot for Bordeaux varieties, especially when aromatics and elegant textures are the goal’.

The state also saw its strongest-ever Gold medal performance in 2026, with five diverse wines achieving that honour. ‘Washington State continued to have a strong showing with their characteristic powerful styles of wine,’ said James Tidwell MS, DWWA Regional Chair for the USA and Central America. Its medal total for the year came to 46.

While most of the Washington winners were red wines, Echolands’ harmonious 2024 Frenchman Hills Vineyard Block 1 Riesling (96) became the first Gold medal winner from the Royal Slope AVA. ‘We’ve always revered these two vineyards [Blue Mountain and Frenchman Hills] as the best-suited sites in Washington for their respective varieties’, commented Rudin.

UpWest’s 2023 Syrah (95) secured another first: Gold for Washington’s Wahluke Slope appellation.

Two Washington icons also took home Gold. L’Ecole No. 41 demonstrated the benefit of working with a suite of mature vineyards with its 2022 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (95), from vines averaging more than 20 years old. That was just one of its four medals. Like Echolands, Spring Valley Vineyards put Cabernet Franc in the foreground in its 2023 Uriah (96), a blend with 40% Merlot, also from Walla Walla Valley.

Walla Walla’s parallel strength with red Rhône varieties was on display in the robust, meaty Francisca’s Vineyard Syrah 2023 (95) from Hoquetus Wine Co., a tiny producer with a wide range of wines, from Riesling to Roussanne and Nouveau-style Syrah to amphora-fermented Mencía.

Decanter’s annual awards: a guide to global wine standouts

Launched in 2004, DWWA is widely regarded as the global benchmark for wine quality based on its rigorous tasting process, its international reach and the expertise of its judges (245 of them in 2026, more than one-third of them Masters of Wine or Master Sommeliers). ‘With so many choices available, consumers often look for reassurance when selecting a bottle, and the DWWA medals help simplify the decision’, commented DWWA Co-Chair Ronan Sayburn MS.

Twenty-three years on, DWWA has become the world’s largest wine competition, awarding medals in five tiers: the 50 Best in Show, then Platinum and Gold (all scoring 95+ points), followed by Silver and Bronze.

In 2026, US wines won a total of 466 DWWA medals – nearly double the country’s previous highest tally. With two Best in Show wines, five Platinum and 32 Gold (one in the Top 35 Value Golds list), this is the biggest haul of top-tier medals the country has brought in at the competition.

Although California, Oregon and Washington continue to dominate, Texas took home its first Gold medals, while Virginia and Pennsylvania both achieved their third consecutive years with Gold medals. Wineries in Massachusetts, Missouri, Colorado and North Carolina claimed Silver medals.

The full list of 2026 winners from around the world can be found at awards.decanter.com.

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Washington is a winemakers’ playground. Unburdened by strict rules, they can freely experiment with grape varieties, wine styles, vine-growing practices and blends to produce some of the most impressive wines in the US.

Here, Rhône varieties such as Syrah are transformed into wines that don’t mimic their predecessors, but rather express their own regional character or follow winemakers’ unbridled imaginations.

‘You’re free to make your own wine the way you choose,’ says Brian Rudin, winemaker and general manager of Echolands Winery, a two-time Decanter World Wine Awards Platinum winner that also makes multiple Syrah bottlings.

‘You don’t need to make it the way your grandparents did.’

Syrah has been a leader among these experiments since it was planted in Washington 40 years ago, with a rapidly developing range of styles true to the terroirs of the Walla Walla Valley, Red Mountain AVA and beyond.

The grape variety appeals to winemakers and wine lovers for creating approachable, food-friendly wines with ripe fruit flavours, complexity and general lushness.

The rise of Washington Syrah

‘Syrah can be a good introductory wine to newcomers – and we certainly need newcomers – but, at the same time, satisfy the needs of the most advanced wine aficionado,’ says Dick Boushey, a pioneering Washington grapegrower.

‘Syrah’s diversity and adaptability are its strengths. Syrah can take the increased heat that we have seen up and down the West Coast. So, it is a variety that is sustainable for the future.’

The first Washington Syrah plantings are credited to Mike Sauer and his family in 1986, in their Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley.

By contrast, Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced to the state in 1941, with Merlot following in 1965, according to the Washington State Wine Commission, bringing the state renown with bottlings from the likes of Leonetti Cellars and Quilceda Creek.

However, Syrah is now a close competitor with Merlot for the second most-planted red variety, with more than 6,300 hectares to Cabernet’s 19,400+ hectares.

Besides being bottled as a single-varietal wine, Syrah is also used in many blends with other Rhône varieties or Cabernet, a decisive factor in its growth.

Producers such as Columbia Winery and now-closed McCrea Cellars encouraged the early plantings of Syrah, while the bold, modern wines from the likes of K Vintners and Cayuse Vineyards helped put Washington Syrah on the radar of a wider range of wine drinkers.

How Washington Syrah styles differ by region

Washington’s major wine regions yield several distinctive styles of Syrah, according to Boushey.

In the warmer parts of the broad Columbia Valley AVA, the wines tend to be inky, ripe and dark – similar to bold California wines.

In cooler areas, like the foothills of Yakima Valley, the wines show more acidity, savoury notes and lower alcohol levels.

In southeastern Walla Walla Valley, where the AVA spreads across the border between Washington and Oregon, Syrah has become the signature variety of The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater.

Here, the cobblestone-filled soils become the main story, leading to wines with signature notes of earth, meat, iodine and herbs.

‘The radiant heat from the exposed basalt stones contributes greatly to the profile that Rocks wines carry,’ says Trey Busch, winemaker of Sleight of Hands Cellars, a Washington winery that owns Stoney Vines Vineyard in The Rocks. (Because the district falls entirely within Oregon, many Washington wineries end up making wines from both states.)

Busch continues: ‘The vines spend more time "shut down" during the hottest days, preserving energy and simply surviving in such a harsh climate. The vine roots also go extremely deep since there is not much soil or moisture-holding capacity.’

How Washington Syrah styles are shaped in the vineyard

Straddling the windswept ridgeline of Red Mountain, WeatherEye Vineyards makes its own Syrah and provides fruit to wineries such as Liminal and MTN/ART.

There, vineyard manager Ryan Johnson has been fine-tuning the viticulture to coax out Syrah’s best qualities. Working with a little less than three hectares of the 16-hectare vineyard planted with Syrah, he became one of the few Washington growers to use the échalas system, with each vine is trained on its own tall stake.

Since Red Mountain is hot, windy and dry, Ryan increased the vine density, creating more natural shade to protect the fruit. As a result, he gets complex, singular wines from this site.

‘Syrah is very site-driven and also very strongly influenced viticulturally,’ Johnson explains. ‘You can farm it conventionally, you can grow it like Cabernet, you can treat it in the cellar like generic reds, and you'll get a generic red wine. But if you match the right training system, the right terroir and the right clone, and then manage your irrigation and nutrition at the highest level, you’ll get that ultimate expression.’

Responding to current market demands, more young Washington winemakers are turning towards lighter wines, Syrah included.

Since 2019, Kelsey Albro Itämeri of Itä Wines has been picking the fruit she sources from Les Collines Vineyard in southeastern Walla Walla very early to avoid overripeness.

That way she doesn’t need to make water or acid additions to adjust the alcohol level and balance of the wines. As a result, Itä Syrah comes in at only 12% abv, with low levels of tannins.

‘If you want to taste the place, Syrah does an excellent job of doing that,’ says Itämeri.

‘It is also delicious. It’s a little bit wild and a little feral and has some magnetism to it. It’s not just fruity. It is also savoury. It has the edge. It makes you think. As people grow in their love of wine, they don’t just want a fruit bomb, they want a wine that is interesting.’

11 Washington-made Syrahs to try

Wine selection and tasting notes by Gwendolyn Elliott

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Auction bidders vied for a piece of American history as Christie's hosted an online auction in Los Angeles featuring lots from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, one of the California wineries that shot to fame in the the Judgement of Paris tasting 50 years ago.

A bottle of Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon 'SLV' 1973 sold for $22,500 (£16,724), including buyer's premium, far outpacing a pre-sale high estimate of $6,000.

Christie's said that's a record price for the 1973 vintage of this Napa Valley wine, famous for outshining top red Bordeaux in the 1976 tasting organised by Steven Spurrier and Patricia Gallagher.

Results helped to put California on the world wine map after a first report by George Taber in Time magazine, under the Judgement of Paris headline.

'We were delighted with today’s world record price for one of America’s truly historic wines,' said Chris Munro, Christie's head of wine, Americas, after the auction finished on 15 July.

Among other lots in the auction, 12 bottles of the Cabernet Sauvignon SLV 1974 sold for $13,750 (high estimate: $5,000). A nine-litre 'Salmanazar' bottle of the 2023 vintage, along with a private tasting, tour and dinner, fetched $4,000 (e: $4,000 – $5,000).

Objects that 'made America'

Following this year’s anniversary celebrations, there will be 19 bottles of the Cabernet Sauvignon SLV 1973 left at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, said a Christie’s spokesperson.

One bottle is preserved in the Smithsonian collection of American historical artefacts – donated by the late winemaker Warren Winiarski, alongside another of California's famous Judgement wines: Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay.

In 2013, Smithsonian named this duo among the ‘101 objects that made America’.

Juan Muñoz-Oca, estates director at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, said the recent Christie's auction result is 'a powerful testament to the enduring legacy of the 1973 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon and the vision of our founder, Warren Winiarski'.

Judgement wines surface for 50th anniversary

This year's 50th anniversary of the Judgement tasting has put a new spotlight on the wines involved.

A joint-lot offered by Montelena and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars at this year’s Auction Napa Valley charity event on 6 June featured one bottle each of the wineries' 1973 'Judgement' vintage.

The lot, which also included other wines, estate visits, a bespoke winemaking experience and one-year winery club memberships, sold for $110,000, said charity auction cohost Sotheby’s.

Looking further back, in March 2022, Heritage Auctions sold a bottle of the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon SLV 1973 for $12,300 – a record auction price for the wine at the time.

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The cool breath of February blows gently, swaying the Spanish moss draped across the arms of a live oak.

A small group has gathered at the Green-Meldrim House, a historic home in Savannah, Georgia.

Gas lanterns cast a warm glow across the threshold as we step inside the 1853 gothic revival style manor for an after-hours tour called Potable Gold.

The docent, an affable yet studious man in his mid-60s, hands us each a glass of cut crystal filled with liquid the hue of the afternoon sun. We take a sip of ambrosia, then follow him into the parlour to hear about Madeira parties in the southern states.

Madeira held a special position in the social lives of early Americans, the docent says as we take seats around a mahogany table. He offers a second pour of wine.

Candlelight flickers as we imagine men in similar rooms across the East Coast drinking the afternoon away.

The drink of a future President

For nearly 200 years, Madeira reigned as the favoured drink of the political elite. Perhaps no one embodied that national devotion more than George Washington.

Though 18th-century invoices rarely listed grape names, Washington was clear about what wine he liked.

In a 1763 letter to his island suppliers, Washington requested ‘a rich oily wine,’ which could only come from the inclusion of Malmsey (Malvasia).

Correspondence and ledgers, shared publicly on the National Archives’ Founders Online, detail Washington’s regular purchases.

An account of expenses as the Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Army logs his purchase of 108 bottles of Madeira on a single day in October 1775. Washington prosecuted a revolution without letting his supply run dry.

If Madeira could win a war, it would be the toast of victory. Every Founder filled a cup to celebrate the adoption of the Declaration of Independence on 4 July, 1776.

How Madeira became America’s wine

Madeira’s grip on America began with the island’s geography and a quirk of British law. Sitting at the nexus of the Atlantic trade winds, Madeira offered a logical provisioning stop for merchant ships headed west for the Indies and New World.

The island’s producers loaded pipes of Madeira into ship holds as ballast. Long voyages through the tropics left an unusual imprint. Heat, oxygen, and the constant rocking of the ship ‘cooked’ the wine into a new oxidised style that Americans soon loved.

A second economic advantage came from the British Parliament. Dating to the 1660s, the Navigation Acts required European goods bound for American colonies to pass through British ports on British ships.

Madeira, whether an oversight or not, eluded the provision by virtue of location. The exemption allowed Madeira to flow freely to the colonies. Bartholomew Broadbent, of the import company Broadbent Selections, believes it may have been ‘America’s first tax loophole'.

Exuberance for Madeira stretched up and down the eastern seaboard. However, the ‘south had a unique love affair with the wine,’ writes Emanuel Berk of the Rare Wine Co. Berk ranks among the foremost authorities on Madeira, having spent decades documenting its American history.

North-South divide

‘The Southern elite’s leisurely way of life allowed for liberal indulgence,’ he writes in his booklet Antebellum Nectar.

Charleston, the wealthiest city in the colonies, was thought to possess the only ‘true leisure-class society,’ admired by 18th- and 19th-century Northerners who welcomed invitations to festive repasts.

Such affairs started mid-afternoon and lasted through the evening, as hosts showed off their collections as both social currency and lubrication.

Curiously, tastes in Madeira differed between the south and the north. Casks rarely bore the name of the producer, and final style decisions fell to the buyer.

Collectors in the Northeast transferred their wine from cask to glass demijohn for extended ageing, while Southerners bottled directly from cask within a year or two of receipt, explains Berk.

The low country Carolina taste for lighter, drier wines, against the sweeter palate of the North, bred a snobbish conviction that ‘the Yankees never understood the wine,’ says Berk.

Madeira on the decline

The Madeira of the early republic bears little resemblance to the wine today. Before the 1850s, producers shipped Madeira within two or three years of the vintage.

The wine had a paler hue and tasted ‘dry and incredibly vibrant,’ says Berk.

Two crises would change that. In 1851 the powdery mildew oidium struck island vineyards, cutting production by 80%. Phylloxera followed in 1872, crippling growers for two decades.

As harvests shrank, producers held the wine in barrels. The longer time in wood gave Madeira a dark colour and nutty, caramel depth.

‘Post-Oidium, Madeira just fundamentally changed,’ says Berk. ‘It became this much more powerful, concentrated wine.’

Concurrently, the American market faded. Champagne, especially popular in Charleston, became the wine of celebration.

Then the Civil War erased the Southern market overnight. Cocktail culture poached some remaining enthusiasts before Prohibition shut the door.

By the 1920s, a wine that had defined American taste had all but vanished.

A modern revival

In 1989, Broadbent set out to reintroduce Madeira to America. Before his San Francisco tasting, few restaurants in the country served it, among them Bern’s in Tampa, known for its legendary cellar.

He poured 19 wines going back to 1845. ‘Despite a very jaded wine trade, we had a massive turn out of about 300 people,’ he says. Within a week, city restaurants sought Madeira for their wine lists.

He dealt in old vintages, including an 1845 Cossart Gordon he sold for around $60 a bottle. ‘I actually got criticised for doing my job too well,’ he says, after selling 100 cases to one buyer. That wine now fetches about $3,000/bottle.

Given the wine’s prominent position in early America, how did the country forget that connection?

Broadbent put the question to a guest in one of his seminars, a schoolteacher who offered an answer. American textbooks, she said, stripped every reference to alcohol. The Founders’ wine had been edited out of national memory.

Around the same time, Berk started Rare Wine Co. after he chanced upon hundreds of cases of 19th-century Madeira from a London merchant unloading them at a deep discount.

As he sold through that stock, he conceived of a new project. He partnered with Ricardo Freitas of Barbeito to develop the Historic Series, paying homage to the regional palates of the past, from the driest Charleston Sercial to the sweetest New York Malmsey.

Despite interest, Madeira remains far from enjoying a market comeback. While Broadbent sees the 250th story circulating, he credits tourism as a significant driver of interest.

‘Portugal has become a major tourist destination. Madeira is already swamped with tourists but within maybe four years it will be as packed as the Amalfi Coast.

'Fifteen years ago, I received maybe two people a year telling me they wanted to go to Madeira. Today I am contacted at least once a week,’ says Broadbent.

A visit to the source

While both importers sell older vintages, drinkers chasing a taste of history will find the island itself the richest ground.

Pereira D’Oliveira in Funchal, imported by Rare Wine Co., has aged wines in cask since 1850. The tasting room display of 19th-century selections provides eye candy for giddy oenophiles.

At Blandy’s, where the family’s wine lodge dates to 1824, guests can visit the museum before tasting vintages dating back to 1920.

‘It’s amazing to think how over 200 years ago, they were making wines with much more limited resources, but are also so legendary,’ says Chris Blandy, Chairman of Blandy’s Madeira.

Freitas, however, may be the island’s most forward-looking producer precisely because he looks to the past. He makes drier, more delicate wines, closer to what crossed the Atlantic in pipes than to wines made in the 20th century.

This year, Rare Wine Co. released its Declaration of Independence Madeira to mark the 250th anniversary of that seminal American moment.

Blended to reflect historical tastes, it's a wine that might have fuelled a long afternoon in a Lowcountry parlour – or an American revolution.

Madeira and America: a shared history in 10 wines

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After being walloped by what he called a ‘cosmic brick’ – a lifelong love of Pinot Noir from Burgundy – David Lett embarked on a quest to see where else, if anywhere else, this fickle grape could reach the same pinnacle of quality.

His search led him to Oregon’s Willamette Valley and, in 1965, he established the region’s first plantings of Pinot Noir.

The connection between Burgundy and Pinot’s new promised land, once merely cosmic, was now concrete.

We last reported on the France-Willamette Valley connection in 2019 and, as you might expect, much has changed.

Here’s the latest, along with reviews of 10 noteworthy Oregon wines from French-owned wineries.

New French investments and appointments: Beaux Frères and Ponzi

The famous Beaux Frères winery, founded by Michael G Etzel in the 1980s, was acquired in 2017 by French firm Maisons & Domaines Henriot.

In 2022, Henriot merged with Artémis Domaines, the fine-wine hegemon behind Bordeaux first growth Château Latour and Burgundy grand cru Clos de Tart.

Big changes ensued. Mikey (Michael D) Etzel, who had taken over winemaking duties from his father in 2017, remains Beaux Frères’ CEO and technical director, but has passed the winemaker title to Evening Land alumnus Damien Lapuyade.

Don’t let the French surname fool you: Lapuyade is a strapping American, born and raised in Napa Valley.

Lapuyade revels in the resources that Artémis provides. ‘It opens the door to all these prestigious domaines that have centuries of experience farming and growing grapes and making world-class wine,’ he says.

‘The transfer of knowledge, the cross-pollination – it’s an amazing opportunity.’

Pioneering winery Ponzi Vineyards, which was acquired by Champagne Bollinger in 2021, also looks different at the top.

Jean-Baptiste (JB) Rivail, a sharp-dressed Frenchman raised in the Rhône Valley, is now CEO of the estate, which had been headed by a Ponzi family member since its founding in 1970.

Rivail, whose own family has a nearly two-century history in the wine business, arrived with Bollinger’s checkbook and license to use it.

‘The trust they put in us is just unbelievable,’ he says. Translation: What Ponzi needs, Ponzi gets.

This is a welcome change for Max Bruening, the Ponzi veteran who inherited the winemaker role from Luisa Ponzi in 2024.

‘I didn't know what CapEx was!’ he says, noting how, before Bollinger, the winery had to make tough maintenance and investment tradeoffs.

Growing resources

Now, Ponzi has a $500,000 Bucher sorting line, new stainless steel and concrete tanks, more land, and a consulting contract with Italy-based vine consultants Simonit & Sirch, who work with elites like Burgundy’s Domaine Leroy.

‘The knowledge here in Oregon has been built on great people and cross-collaboration,’ Rivail says. ‘But international investors come with things you know are working in other regions.’

Some locals welcome the outside capital. ‘It validates everything we've been working for,’ says Josh Bergström, a homegrown Oregon vintner who studied in France and is married to a Burgundian.

‘It lends gravitas to the region, to the pioneers who knew Pinot could be great here. With other beverages taking [wine’s] market share, we need families who have been around for generations on our side.’

Not everyone is enthused. 'Neutral at best' is how independent winemaker Saul Mutchnick of Championship Bottle describes the overall effect of outside money on the Willamette Valley.

Though he acknowledges the important role such investments have played in establishing the region, Mutchnick laments how small labels often lose access to prime vineyard sites when moneyed interests move in.

He cites the Koosah Vineyard (purchased by Résonance Wines, which is owned by French stalwart Louis Jadot) and Bunker Hill Vineyard (Lingua Franca/Constellation Brands) as examples.

A two-way street: Burgundy also benefits

Burgundy has long been the world’s Pinot Noir lodestar and, at one time, inexperienced Willamette Valley vintners were eager to glean any knowledge they could from their winemaking idols. But these days, the knowledge flows both ways.

‘When we travel to Burgundy now, there’s a sense of collegiality that I don’t think used to exist,’ says Lapuyade. ‘There seems to be this mutual respect, where they’re asking as many questions to Oregon winemakers on what’s working and what’s not working.’

Véronique Boss-Drouhin, head winemaker for both Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Maison Joseph Drouhin, says the family’s Burgundy team is inspired by their Willamette Valley counterparts, noting events like the annual Oregon Pinot Camp. ‘Burgundy should have done that years ago!’

For Louis Jadot, Résonance serves as a model for effective customer relations; in 2027, the winery will host a cruise through Burgundy for its clients.

Naturally, the trip will include a visit to Jadot, and Résonance winemaker Guillaume Large will be on board.

‘How you make somebody fall in love with the wines and the brand and the story isn't through leading with the sales pitch,’ says Taylor Theis, the winery’s director of consumer sales and marketing,

Oregon Chardonnay rising: New project Atomique3

Chardonnay is on a tear in the Willamette Valley, and many vintners trace its success to Dominique Lafon, who came from Burgundy in 2007 as consulting winemaker for Evening Land.

‘He started bringing some cultural practices on how to translate this terroir,’ says Mikey Etzel, showing the locals when to pick (earlier) and how much fruit to extract (less).

Atomique3, a superb Chardonnay-only Willamette Valley label launched in the 2021 vintage, bears the influence of another Burgundy legend: Meursault’s Jean-Marc Roulot.

Atomique3’s principals – Felipe Ramirez, a Chilean who earned his Master’s degree in Montpellier in the south of France, and renowned soil expert Pedro Parra – recruited Roulot to consult.

Atomique3’s four core Chardonnays are based on soil type, which will come as no surprise to anyone who knows Parra, who has built a career on soil and even authored a book about it.

Ramirez, who drives around the Willamette Valley with chunks of basalt on the dashboard of his truck, is no less obsessed.

‘The only thing that never changes is the soil,’ he says. ‘The weather changes every year, people change, decisions change. The plans change. But the soil – you need thousands of years to see those changes.’

The Hills are still hot: Résonance, Drouhin and Nicolas-Jay

In 2022, Résonance expanded to the Eola-Amity Hills, purchasing the outstanding Koosah Vineyard, a former Christmas tree farm planted with vines in 2016.

This acquisition doubled Résonance’s Chardonnay holdings, and it now bottles a single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the site.

The same year, Domaine Drouhin purchased Methven Family Vineyards, adding to the Eola-Amity Hills presence it established in 2013, when the family purchased Roserock Vineyard (which it has now spun into the Roserock label).

The 80-acre Methven property has 30 acres of vines, but the move was largely logistical: Methven is a 15-minute drive from Roserock, which lacks a dedicated production facility.

With an existing winery, water, power and ample space, Methven ticked all the boxes. ‘We were blessed to find this place,’ says Boss-Drouhin.

The facility is now known as Roserock North, and the winemaker there is French-born Drouhin veteran Isabelle DuTartre, Boss-Drouhin’s lifelong friend and her partner in Caballus Wines, which also makes Willamette Pinot Noir.

In the Dundee Hills, Nicolas-Jay, the partnership between Jean-Nicolas Méo and Jay Boberg, acquired a 52-acre site on the AVA’s north side in 2019.

They planted 25 acres of vines and renovated the property’s barn into a production winery and tasting room. In 2026, Noah Roberts was named production winemaker.

An Oregon wine legend bids adieu

Laurent Montalieu, who came to Oregon from Bordeaux in 1988, established himself as a juggernaut over the next three-plus decades.

In 2003, he founded NW Wine Company, the Willamette Valley’s first custom-crush facility – although he prefers the term ‘custom winegrowing,’ which he believes better captures the company’s range.

Over the years, NW Wine Company grew to encompass brands like Hyland Estates and Domaine Loubejac. In 2021, Montalieu sold it in what was the largest transaction in Oregon wine history.

He retired from NW Wine Company in 2024 but is still on the board, and French-born Anne Sery is now director of winemaking.

Montalieu also remains owner and winemaker at Soléna Estate, which he founded in 2000 and named after his daughter, Soléna Andrus Montalieu.

One day the winery will be hers, but it’s hard to imagine her father sitting idle in Oregon. Says Montalieu, ‘I will never retire from Soléna’.

10 fantastique Oregon wines with a French Connection

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Humans have a strange predilection for new, young, unblemished things.

In viticulture, economics tends to reward a focus on productivity and efficiency. Visually, this is easy to recognise: uniform rows, immaculate canopies and vines farmed for quick returns.

‘A young vineyard reminds me of an army, where everyone looks the same, trained for a mission,’ says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking at Turley Wine Cellars and the winemaker behind his own label, Sandlands, in California, two brands with an explicit focus on historic vineyards.

In a recent conversation with Passalacqua, he reached for a copy of Scottish-American naturalist and writer John Muir’s My First Summer in the Sierra, where Muir writes about his observations on pines and how, while young trees are ‘very straight and regular in form,’ by 50 to 100 years they ‘begin to acquire individuality, so that no two are alike in their prime or old age.’

Old vines, Passalacqua says, do the same. Each grows to express something different from where it is planted, which, among other reasons, is what makes old vines matter and the very thing modern winegrowing was built to erase.

‘That’s the difference between agriculture and agribusiness,’ he says.

Not just the romance

The case for old vines isn't only about romance. Science is slowly supporting the claim that they can produce higher-quality wines with greater aromatic complexity and phenolic structure.

In the United States, old vines are also a living record of American wine history: the field blends planted by immigrants; the vines that survived phylloxera and Prohibition; the foundational plantings that helped establish whole regions.

Still, there’s no legal definition of ‘old vine’ in the US. The Historic Vineyard Society draws its line at 50 years for currently producing California vineyards, with at least one-third of productive vines traceable to the original planting.

The International Organisation of Vine and Wine defines an old grapevine as at least 35 years old. Either way, there isn't much left – America has only a thin and shrinking stock of truly old vineyards, and almost nothing protecting them beyond the goodwill, stubbornness and love of their growers.

Passalacqua sees old vines as a kind of measuring stick. ‘One of the important factors of old vines is they're very educational,’ he says.

‘There's something the farmers and winemakers can learn from them that you might not learn as easily from young vines.’

He also argues that much of the winemaking that exploded in the 1990s in America was built to meet a specific market demand rather than to explore terroir, and that mindset still lingers in much of the industry.

‘Modern winemakers and modern wine drinkers know what they want it to taste like,’ he says.

‘They're not embracing the character of the site. But with old vines, it's really hard not to.’

Not automatically better, but...

In a different conversation, Shauna Rosenblum, winemaker at Ridge Vineyards' Lytton Springs estate, where vines are over a century old, says old vines have ‘soul.’

It isn't only poetry. If you take Ridge’s old Zinfandel vines, interplanted with Petite Sirah, Carignane, Mataro and other varieties, the wines have a character that comes not from a single grape or uniform ripeness but from the tension of a historic field blend.

Rosenblum also notes the resilience older vines can develop. At Ridge, Rosenblum has watched century-old vines test positive for a disease like red blotch and simply carry on – ripening, producing – while the same virus forces young vines out of the ground.

'When you taste younger vines planted in the '90s next to old vines from 1901, there's more to it,' she says.

The vines that have come through something, in her opinion, are the more interesting ones, like people shaped by hardship and 'in it for the long run.'

Old vines are not automatically better, but time can offer something you can't manufacture: identity. And that happens to be what a lot of younger drinkers now say they want – specificity, unusual grapes, a wine with a story rather than a target flavour.

‘When you first begin your wine journey, do you care that you're drinking old vines?’ asks Rosenblum. ‘Maybe not, but then you taste the difference.’

A growing number of American winemakers are betting their reputations on old vineyards.

Labels like Bedrock, Desire Lines and Sandlands have built devoted followings, producing serious wines from grapes most drinkers couldn't name a decade ago.

They're not only preserving old vines but also perhaps teaching a generation to look beyond famous varieties and taste what old vines offer.

The eight wines below offer an entry point into dynamic and delicious bottles from old-vine vineyards in California, where most of America's old-vine acreage is planted.

Eight US wines from old vines

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Amid a sea of bad news for the wine industry, the white wine category is having a moment.

According to the 2025 SVB State of the U.S. Wine Industry report, white wine has positive growth rates by volume and now has better sales growth rates than red wine.

Similarly, data from WSWA’s SipSource revealed that, despite a broader market decline, multiple white wine categories demonstrated modest growth.

For a wine region like Paso Robles on California's Central Coast, where only 15% of the grapes planted are white, this is pertinent news.

But, despite the region being known for big, bombastic red wines, a quiet few are putting out quality white wines that are fresh, interesting, and challenging the status quo.

Going their own way

'When I started to make wine, people said to me that to succeed, you have to make red wine,' says Nancy Ulloa, owner and winemaker of Ulloa Cellars, a white wine-focused brand.

Fresh whites might not come to mind in Paso, which is notorious for its high temperatures.

This was especially apparent during the 2022 vintage, when a relentless 10-day heat spike over 40 degrees Celsius dominated the region at harvest time.

If grapes (especially white) were not picked before this spike, quality suffered. And, being so well-known for full-bodied red wines, there was historically little stylistic demand for white wines, let alone fresh ones.

Still, Paso producers are finding ways to craft wines of this style. It comes down to grape varieties, picking decisions, and winemaking technique.

Stephy Terrizzi, viticulturist and co-owner of Giornata, says: 'We make picking decisions for white grapes based more on pH than brix levels. Lower-pH grapes (meaning higher acidity) will have fresher qualities and be more zippy on the palate. In the cellar, we do not add malolactic bacteria and currently use only stainless steel and amphora for fermenting and ageing.'

Ulloa relies upon pick times, different vessels, lees stirring, and varying combinations of yeast per lot.

Working together

These approaches are leading to notable success with white wines in Paso. Giornata, with a focus on Italian varieties, is currently producing more white wines than red wines.

Dave McGee, winemaker at Monochrome, a white wine-only winery, says: 'Many customers come to our door because they are excited to try something different and new. They mention they have a stash of reds at home, but no whites.'

He also talks about Paso’s evolving culinary scene, which includes two Michelin-starred restaurants.

'White wines often pair better with the elegant, nuanced courses being offered by the top new restaurants than do the traditional big Paso reds,' he adds.

Rhône variety-focused Tablas Creek has been a pioneer in the 'lighter side' of Paso Robles since its inception in 1989, with its Patelin Blanc and Esprit Blanc consistently earning both critical acclaim and commercial success over the years.

Now, says Terrizzi: 'Paso Robles winemakers have put thought and energy into making more serious white wines that are complex and sometimes age-worthy, like Fiano and Chenin Blanc.'

McGee agrees that: 'More winemakers are now putting the same level of effort, passion, and attention to detail into their whites that they had previously reserved only for their top reds.'

And as consumer trends shift, this new-found focus is paying off.

10 fresh, summer white wines from Paso Robles

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If there's one cuvée every Champagne lover dreams of tasting at least once in their life, it's Salon. So imagine the chance to taste not one, but five vintages of this legendary wine, produced only 45 times since the house was founded in 1905.

And what an opportunity to enjoy these five wines alongside five more Blanc de Blancs cuvées from Champagne Delamotte, Salon's sister house.

This was the exclusive opportunity afforded some 80 lucky attendees who got tickets to this sold-out masterclass – the first one of the day at the 2026 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York City, held on Saturday 6 June in the beautiful surrounds of the Manhatta on the 60th floor.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the 10 Salon and Delamotte Champagnes at the DFWE NYC 2026 masterclass

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs NV (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2018 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2014 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2012 (magnum)

Delamotte, Collection Blanc de Blancs 2008 (magnum)

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2015

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2013

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2012

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2007

Salon, Cuvée S, Edition 2020, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 1997

Sister houses with distinct identities

Hosted by Cristian Rimoldi, the export director for both Delamotte and Salon, which have been part of the Laurent-Perrier group since 1988, this rare and exceptional tasting was a deep-dive into the complex and nuanced language of Chardonnay and the grands crus of the Côte des Blancs through the lens of these iconic sister houses

Through 10 remarkable and defining expressions of these outstanding terroirs, Rimoldi illustrated the commonalities between the two house’s approaches, as well as their distinct identities.

As background for the attendees, Rimoldi explained that the same technical teams are in charge of both houses, from viticulture to marketing. This allows for a nuanced understanding of the Chardonnay profile – from both owned and purchased vineyard plots – and subsequent decisions, particularly regarding the decision to release vintage cuvées.

For both houses, the wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks, but each has a different regimen regarding malolactic fermentation. It is done at Delamotte, while it is not encouraged – indeed prevented – at Salon, in order to preserve the delicate tension of the grape variety and terroir.

The dosage, made with cane sugar, is determined on a case-by-case basis, yet ranges between five grams per litre and 7.5g/L, with the exception of late disgorgements (Delamotte's Collection cuvée, and the ‘editions’ for Salon), which are brut nature, the extended bottling time providing the desired balance on the palate without the addition of sugar.

Champagne Delamotte

The first part of the tasting focused on Delamotte. One of the oldest houses in the Champagne region, founded in 1760, it specialises in Chardonnay, the grape variety at the heart of its four cuvées, where the average age of the vines is 40 years.

Champagne Delamotte also has HVE certification, which verifies its commitment to sustainable viticulture, and is moving towards organic farming trials

While it draws on the exceptional terroir of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Delamotte's philosophy, as Rimoldi told his audience, is the blending of the great crus of the Côte des Blancs. For the Blanc de Blancs NV, Avize and Oger are added to Mesnil, and for the pair of Blanc de Blancs Vintage cuvées, it is the three aforementioned crus plus Chouilly, Oiry, and Cramant.

‘We are the only house offering a blend of all six crus of the Côte,’ he emphasised. Added from 2008 onwards, Chouilly and Oiry ‘bring acidity, but also a structure similar to that of a Pinot Noir’.

The Blanc de Blancs NV is designed to be approachable, with the base vintage joined by 30% of reserve wine from the two preceding vintages, a 48-month aging period, and a more ‘inclusive’ dosage of around 7g/L.

The vintage cuvées, meanwhile, are crafted for complexity and ageing potential, and are undoubtedly the flagship of the house – albeit a discreet flagship, noted Rimoldi, often overlooked or little known by Côte des Blancs enthusiasts.

Contrasting vintage profiles

This was confirmed by comparative tastings of the 2018, 2014, and 2012 vintages. Their distinct identities were clearly identifiable – the ripeness of the 2018, the cool tension of the 2014, and the robust structure of the 2012 – especially since they were tasted in magnums. (They, like all 10 wines in the tasting, were aged under screwcap).

‘In terms of pH and ripeness, 2018 is similar to 1982,’ said Rimoldi when the topic of climate change was raised, along with its potential impact on a style as intense as Delamotte and Salon.

‘We need to take a step back and look at cycles,’ he explained. ‘We are obviously very aware of this issue. One advantage, however, is the improved health of the grapes compared to harvests that were previously very late and more complicated.

‘And we are fortunate to be on exceptional chalky terroirs with their water reserves, which are so important for the vines.’

The fact that the 2014 and 2012 were also in a period of post-disgorgement development highlighted the contrasting profiles of these vintages, both in terms of volume and aromas.

The comparison became even more interesting with the 2008 Collection. Delamotte offers late disgorgements for its Brut Vintage (dating back to 1964) as well as its Blanc de Blancs (1970, 1985, 1988, 1991, 1999, 2000, 2008).

Disgorged and then aged for barely a year, with no added dosage, the 2008 had the aromatic profile of a great Chardonnay, but with surprising power and density for a Côte des Blancs wine. A wine showing that Delamotte's vintage Blanc de Blancs is a benchmark, offering real value for money.

Champagne Salon

The second part of the tasting was devoted to the truly unique Salon Champagne. While its aesthetic – a single terroir (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger), a single vintage, a single grape variety – is no longer particularly striking today, Rimoldi reminded attendees that ‘Aimé Salon, a great lover of Burgundy, had this idea in 1905!’

Moving from the magnum format of the five Delamotte wines to the 75cl format for Salon – as well as going from the mature, brut nature 2008 Delamotte Collection to a young 2015 Salon, required particular concentration from the guests and was a true exercise for the palate.

But Rimoldi started with this latest vintage release followed by 2013, 2012, 2007, and 1997 in its 'second edition' version from 2020.

‘There is only one disgorgement when we release a vintage, and we do not indicate the date on the bottle,’ he told the masterclass.

‘However, we have decided to offer late disgorgements which we call Editions, in which case the disgorgement dates are mentioned. In terms of dosage, we are still around 5g/L to 7g/L grams, as for Delamotte, except for these late disgorgements, which are brut nature, as for Delamotte Collection.’

Making history

Only 45 vintages of Salon have been released since 1905 – 37 during the 20th century, but already eight since 2000.

Symbolic of the climatic consequences, 2015 was a sunny vintage so required less bottling time than 2014. This vintage has needed a longer time on the lees (tirage) and is still ageing ‘at a glacial pace’.

This is only the second time in Salon’s history it has made a non-chronological release. And once 2014 is out, it will also be only the second time that four consecutive Salon vintages (2012-13-14-15) will have been made, after the quadrilogy of 1946-47-48-49.Undoubtedly, the 2015 benefited from the water-retaining quality of the Mesnil chalk, mitigating the stress experienced by the vines in other Champagne areas, which can lead to vegetal bitterness on the palate.

The 2013 and 2012 vintages were remarkable examples of the Salon style, but very different profiles: 2012 with its mature, slightly more evolved structure, and 2013 with its crisp, chiselled freshness.

Salon has a reputation for closing up after a few years in the bottle and then reopening. This seems to be more the case with 2012 than 2013. The 2007, with a profile similar to the 2014, also benefited from a longer tirage period (11 years compared to the average of nine), and is now at its peak, deserving its nickname of ‘shining light’.

The masterclass concluded with a truly great 1997 (edition 2020), aged for 23 years and with no added dosage. Confirming again the importance of lees in defining texture and revealing density, the wine is surprisingly expressive.

Champagne Delamotte and Salon masterclass: 10 Blanc de Blancs cuvées

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By the time the Continental Congress formally approved the Declaration of Independence on 4 July 1776, winemaking in North America already had a relatively long and uneven history.

The earliest attempts date back to the early decades of European settlement and involved experiments with native grape species.

Typically characterised by high acidity, lower sugar levels, and distinctive flavour profiles, these native grapes produced wines markedly different from their European counterparts, prompting repeated (and often unsuccessful) attempts to establish plantings of Vitis vinifera imported from the Old World.

One of the most notable of such attempts was undertaken by Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States and passionate wine enthusiast, who planted European grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at his Monticello estate in Virginia.

Despite more than three decades of stubborn experimentation, Jefferson never succeeded in producing a reliable vintage from these vines.

Vitis vinifera’s failures in North America were long attributed to factors such as unfavourable climate, soil conditions, or poor vineyard practices, but a far more significant element at play was likely the presence of phylloxera.

This microscopic root-feeding pest native to North America that would later decimate European vineyards once inadvertently introduced there in the 19th century.

More substantial viticultural progress came with the arrival of Franciscan missionaries in the American southwest, who cultivated the Mission grape, a variety imported from Spain – via Mexico – and later identified as Listán Prieto.

This grape became the foundation of California’s early wine industry, demonstrating the region’s capacity for sustained viticulture.

Indeed, while wine production expanded across the United States, it was California that laid the groundwork for what would become the epicentre of American winemaking, driven in large part by European immigrants bringing both technical expertise and commercial ambition.

Among them were Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian who established Buena Vista in Sonoma in 1857, and German immigrant Charles Krug who founded his namesake winery in Napa Valley in 1861.

Prohibition: Time for a reset

As Europe grappled with the devastation of phylloxera towards the end of the 19th century, the United States was laying the groundwork for a constitutional alcohol ban.

Nationwide prohibition officially began in January 1920. Its impact on American wine was immediate and severe.

Most commercial wineries ceased operations altogether, bringing what had so far been a growing and increasingly ambitious industry to an abrupt halt.

Wine production, however, did not disappear entirely. Wineries such as Beaulieu Vineyard and Beringer were able to survive the dry years by producing sacramental wine for religious institutions.

At the same time, a legal loophole created a parallel informal economy centred around domestic winemaking, particularly in immigrant-heavy urban areas like New York, Chicago, and Boston.

By the time Prohibition was repealed in December 1933, only a small fraction of America’s wineries were still operational.

The industry’s entire commercial infrastructure – vineyards, distribution networks, oenological expertise, and consumer culture – had to be rebuilt almost from scratch.

California Chablis, jug wine and post-Prohibition rebirth

For much of post-Prohibition America, wine was primarily an inexpensive intoxicant, often sweet, and produced in ‘Port’ or ‘Sherry’-style expressions that bore little resemblance to their Old World counterparts.

Yet, beneath these high mass-market volumes, some producers began investing seriously in quality and in the long-term potential of American wine.

One of the most transformative moments came in 1938 with the arrival of Russian-born winemaker André Tchelistcheff at Napa’s Beaulieu Vineyard.

Widely regarded as one of the founding architects of modern Californian wine, Tchelistcheff introduced a new level of scientific rigour and technical precision to viticulture and winemaking, drawing heavily on European high standards while adapting practices to Californian conditions.

Through direct mentorship and broader industry influence, Tchelistcheff helped shape a new generation of winemakers, including figures such as Robert Mondavi, Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich of Grgich Hills, who would play defining roles in the rise of modern American wine.

Robert Mondavi, in particular, proved instrumental in reshaping the narrative surrounding Californian wine.

Rather than relying on (then common) European-inspired names such as ‘California Chablis’ or ‘Napa Burgundy’, he championed varietal labelling, placing grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay front and centre.

Mondavi also promoted wine as part of a broader cultural lifestyle connected to gastronomy, music, art, and conviviality, helping (re)position it as an aspirational product rather than a merely functional one.

By the 1970s, the United States was producing wines capable of competing with the world’s finest.

British wine merchant Steven Spurrier was sufficiently convinced of such progress that, in 1976, he organised a blind tasting in Paris pitting leading Californian wines against some of France’s most prestigious labels.

The outcome of what would become known as the Judgment of Paris stunned the audience, the jury, and the industry as a whole: Californian wines triumphed in both the white and red categories, defeating celebrated Burgundies and Bordeaux.

The tasting marked a watershed moment for American wine, securing its place on the global fine wine map and fundamentally altering international perceptions of what the country was capable of bottling.

Napa Cab and The Critics

In the years that followed this landmark moment, Californian winemaking increasingly shifted towards a style defined by power, ripeness, and opulence, producing wines marked by intense fruit concentration, elevated alcohol levels, deep extraction, and generous use of new French oak.

This evolution was strongly shaped by the rise of influential critic Robert Parker Jr, who tended to favour this bold, ripe stylistic approach, rewarding it with higher marks in his influential 100-point scoring system.

This philosophy gradually spread beyond California, in a phenomenon referred to, sometimes critically, as Parkerisation.

From Bordeaux to Tuscany and Rioja, producers increasingly embraced riper fruit, softer tannins, later harvesting, and more assertive oak regimes.

They often sought input from influential international consultants such as Michel Rolland, in pursuit of the high critic scores they felt could elevate reputation, demand, and revenues almost overnight.

As the 20th century drew to a close, the United States had entered an entirely new phase of its wine history.

No longer a country merely striving to prove its legitimacy to the global wine establishment, it had become one of the principal forces shaping its direction, aesthetics, and economic dynamics.

A multi-layered landscape

Modern American wine is a remarkably nuanced landscape, one that mirrors the equally complex history of the country itself and the multitude of cultures, migrations, and traditions that shaped its social fabric.

California continues to dominate both production volume and the premium sector, but has become far more stylistically diverse than the blockbuster Cabernet stereotype often associated with it.

Powerful Napa Cab still occupies a central place in the state’s identity, yet California today produces an extraordinary range of styles, from refined coastal Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Mediterranean varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Vermentino.

Zinfandel (arguably America’s most emblematic grape) is also being reinterpreted in more nuanced and site-specific ways.

Meanwhile, fellow West Coast states have, over the past few decades, firmly joined the race for quality wine production.

Oregon has established itself as a leading cool-climate region, particularly for elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while Washington State has earned acclaim for structured Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhône varieties, and vibrant Riesling.

On the East Coast, New York’s Finger Lakes region has steadily built a reputation for refined, high-acid, cool-climate wines, particularly Riesling and Cabernet Franc.

Centuries after Thomas Jefferson’s failed experiments, Virginia has also finally found its winemaking identity, acclaimed for Cabernet Franc and Viognier, grapes well suited to the state’s humid continental climate (though producers are successfully working across a wide range of styles and varieties).

Beyond these, quality wine is produced in almost every American state, from the Mediterranean varieties of Texas to the cool, fresh, and unexpectedly refined whites of Michigan.

Across the country, winemakers now express a striking diversity of approaches and philosophies, with an increasing emphasis on regional identity over homogenised stylistic consistency.

The story of American wine may have begun as a matter of trial and – significant – error, but in the span of a semiquincentennial it has morphed into a deliberate, confident, and increasingly self-assured expression of place, as diverse and expansive as the country itself.

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While cooler-climate regions in the US, such as Oregon’s Willamette Valley, are better known for sparkling wine, a growing cohort of Washington state winemakers have been producing fizz worthy of fireworks.

The state’s principal appellation, the Columbia Valley, is larger than the country of Belgium and a growing region of extreme diversity.

Across its microclimates, sub-appellations, and high-elevation vineyards, traditional sparkling varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir seem to grow as well as the human talent required to transform those grapes into premium wines.

As US wine drinkers prepare to celebrate the nation’s 250th birthday on the Fourth of July, here are five reasons to consider a bottle of Washington state fizz for the festivities.

Five sparklingly good reasons to choose Washington state fizz for your Fourth festivities

1. A range of prices puts Washington bubbly in reach of most buyers

Entry-level, traditional-method bottles from established Yakima-based producers such as Treveri start below $20. Newer upstart brand Tirriddis prices its value House line at just over $20 a bottle.

Gabriel Crowell, co-founder and director of winemaking at Tirriddis in Prosser, attributes this competitive edge to the state’s established agricultural infrastructure and what he calls the ‘pursuit of flavor’.

‘What makes sparkling so unique is that you have the option of flavor, but you have the possibility of being able to actually produce enough cases to get a traditional-method Pinot Gris to St Louis, Missouri.’

2. Cool-climate varieties are grown with success across the state

‘I’m always looking for the coolest spots,’ says Chris Sherry, who crafts traditional-method sparkling wines for his brand Elentone in the Woodinville wine district north of Seattle.

He sources fruit from higher-elevation vineyards within the rugged Columbia Gorge.

His preferred sites, such as Celilo on Underwood Mountain and nearby Rainmaker in White Salmon, are further west in the Gorge appellation.

These areas are closer to maritime influences from the Pacific Ocean, and benefit from more moderated temperatures as well as an extended growing season.

‘It just helps things ripen a bit more evenly,’ says Sherry.

3. Styles are suited to every taste

From natural, low-intervention styles, to extended lees ageing, or bottlings made using non-traditional grape varieties, there is something for everyone on Washington’s sparkling spectrum.

Grosgrain winemaker Matt Austin, who helped popularize pet-nat (pétillant naturel) in the state with his Red Mountain Lemberger, now produces a traditional-method wine from the variety, albeit in a largely hands-off style.

‘We still make that wine in a fairly natural way, with no fining, filtration, or cold stabilization, to keep it a little more wild and textural,’ Austin says.

4. Washington fizz is fantastically food friendly

Picnic salads, corn on the cob, burgers, barbecue: few wines are better with a variety of traditional cookout foods than Washington’s many high-acid bubblies.

In Walla Walla, Kinhaven winemaker Kasey Davenport suggests seafood with her fizz, The Four Stars.

‘We love it with oysters, Dungeness crab pasta salad, or a lobster roll.’

5. You can toast to the promise of a brighter tomorrow (like a State official)

Second-generation winemaker Christian Grieb of Treveri in Wapato, Washington, says his brand’s Blanc de Blancs Brut Zero has made its way to the nation’s capital more than once.

‘We’ve been served at the State Department on several occasions,’ Grieb says.

‘We love its mission, which is American diplomacy through American food and wine.’

10 great Washington state sparkling wines to try

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Costco's buying weight gives it access to everything from blue-chip Napa Valley estates to little-known labels sourced from coveted vineyards, and some great-value offerings we explore below.

We're all bargain hunters at heart. I might be the worst among you.

Because of my job, most of the 3,500-plus wines I taste each year are sent to me as samples.

So when it comes time to actually put my own money behind my recommendations, I'm keen to achieve three things.

The first is easy: I set my sights on a wine I know will be absolutely delicious. So delicious, in fact, that I can't rest until the bottle is empty.

The second is provenance. Where will this wine I'm buying come from? The winery itself? A retail shop? Online? A restaurant wine list?

Whatever the case, I need to know that the bottle has been properly cared for and protected from heat damage or years spent standing upright.

Finally, the price must match the quality.

I'll pay $100 for a Chardonnay. I'll spend more on Cabernet Sauvignon. I'll turn a blind eye to what I spend on Pinot Noir and Champagne.

But every now and then, I volunteer to battle the crowds for household essentials at my local Costco just so I can peruse the wine selection for a screaming deal of a wine, somewhere south of $50. Ideally, well south.

Inevitably, what happens is I’ll find those sub-$50, or sub-$25 deals, but on more occasions than I’d like to admit, I've walked out positively giddy over what I spent on bottles of Dom Pérignon, Cristal, and Château Pontet-Canet. Just as giddy over the six bottles of $12.99 Napa Sauvignon Blanc I bought.

Sworn to secrecy

Then there are the Napa Valley bargains that I know perhaps a little too much about — particularly the fruit sources.

All too often, when a producer is pouring a wine they believe will eventually land in a Costco bin, they'll quietly hint at the coveted vineyard source behind it, usually protected by a non-disclosure agreement.

My eyes nearly pop out of my head when I hear the price.

"Wait. That fruit, in that bottle, costs under $30? Under $20?"

"Yeah, but you can't tell anyone," is often the follow-up from the winemaker, vintner, or broker.

"Well, let me know when it hits the shelves," is usually my curt response.

This happens a lot in Napa Valley. There's simply too much of a good thing.

Great vineyards produce more fruit than the market can always absorb, and that fruit often finds its way into private labels or special bottlings made exclusively for Costco.

After all, Costco currently operates 923 warehouses, including 633 in the United States.

With that kind of nationwide footprint, they can buy at scale, creating ample opportunities for Costco to strike bargains it can pass along to consumers.

That even goes for some of Napa’s iconic labels that end up in the bins—blue-chip estates that even I’ve spotted at my local Costco in Novato, California, including a three-pack of Screaming Eagle, bottles of Opus One, and Shafer.

Or wines crafted by 100-point winemakers such as Thomas Rivers Brown (see the Caterwaul on my list below) and Benoit Touquette (Teeter-Totter).

So here's my suggestion: head to your local Costco and ask for the person who manages the wine inventory.

If you get them on the floor, tell them what styles of wine you typically enjoy and ask them to point you toward one of the best Napa bargains currently in the store.

The bottles on this list are wines I've found in Costco locations throughout the San Francisco Bay Area.

That doesn't mean you'll find every one of them at your local warehouse, and even if you do, they may not be there for long.

For now, see if you can get your hands on these eight bargains at a Costco near you. Happy hunting.

Cristaldi's Eight Napa value picks at Costco

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There's no shortage of great Pinot Noir in the world.

Obviously it all starts with Burgundy. But, equally, there are a lot more countries and regions getting their due now too.

Everywhere from New Zealand and Australia to Germany, South Africa – and the US, especially Oregon's Willamette Valley and Sonoma in California.

And as Burgundy is increasingly out of reach for most wine drinkers, these other sources of high-quality Pinot are really coming into their own.

There are exciting things happening all around, but I want to focus in particular on Sonoma.

And what I can tell you is that Sonoma not only delivers excellent Pinots but does so in a range of styles.

While this caters for many palates, it also makes Sonoma difficult to understand. But that’s precisely its appeal.

That Sonoma is large is hardly breaking news. Less obvious is how much more clearly its differences have come into focus over the past two decades, as a growing number of the county’s producers have become a lot more invested in showing just how little sense a one-size-fits-all idea of Pinot Noir makes at this scale.

Shifting styles

There has been a gradual move away from making wines that follow imported styles to a commitment to sustainable farming suited to each site.

In the cellar, there’s often a more deliberate touch, less interventionist in some cases.

The idea is not terribly complicated: a healthy, expressive vineyard plus less new oak and other manipulations means winemakers can be a lot more confident in letting the wines reflect where they come from.

Ensuring fruit is not picked overripe, and the increased use of whole bunches in fermentations to enhance freshness has also been a turning point.

Within the 19 AVAs of Sonoma, you’ll see anything from cold and fog-bound coastal vineyards to dramatic high-elevation mountain sites, warm inland pockets, windy corridors, and a remarkable variety of soils and geologic formations.

There are differences so nuanced they can sometimes be noticed just a mile apart by producers sharing the same fence line.

Which might explain the growing thirst for vineyard-designated Sonoma Pinot bottlings.

In the glass, Sonoma Pinot serves a palate looking for saline, savoury, and almost electrically tense wines, as well as generous, plush, and fruit-forward ones, through to darker and more structured versions, and a lot more in between.

Cast assumptions aside

In any case, long-held assumptions about what Sonoma Pinot Noir should taste like are worth revisiting, as the wine styles and identities are as diverse as the county is large.

That seems to serve an eclectic market quite well, with consumers always on the hunt for different things, making Pinot a ‘democratic’ grape in Sonoma.

The same region that produces wines to make collectors queue for allocations each season, also produces bottles that are just easy and delicious.

'West Sonoma Coast producers tend to draw wine collectors and more intellectually curious drinkers,' says Alex Sarovich, sommelier and wine educator.

'When it’s juicy, fruit-driven, and not overly tannic, Pinot Noir is a really good grape for easing people into the drier styles of wine,' she adds.

Trying to make a list in this context feels daunting. The wines selected here are excellent – among the best Sonoma has to offer right now – but they are not the full picture.

No list of 10 bottles could hope to capture a region this large, but together they offer a glimpse into what makes Sonoma such a compelling place to explore through Pinot Noir: a collection of exciting and often contrasting expressions.

10 Sonoma Pinot Noirs

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The final masterclass of the day at the 2026 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York began at 4pm.

Despite a full day of tasting already behind them, attendees packed the room for a retrospective look at Heitz Cellar hosted by Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy, president and CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, which owns this benchmark Napa Valley winery, among others.

The lineup of wines spanned nearly five decades, and guests were encouraged to taste while McCoy and I discussed the history of this iconic producer.

One of the more interesting topics was how little the winemaking itself has changed over the decades.

McCoy explained that Heitz continues to ferment its Cabernet Sauvignons in large neutral wooden tanks, blocks malolactic fermentation in the reds, and ages wines in large oak foudres.

The objective, he said, is to preserve freshness and 'express site character above all'.

While some American oak was used in the first few decades of Heitz’s founding, today, it’s French.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the 10 Heitz Cellar wines at the DFWE NYC 2026 masterclass

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 1979

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 1985

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 2010

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 2021

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 1999

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2013

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2021

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2015

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2016

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2021

Standouts from the line up

It was a rare opportunity for Masterclass attendees to experience mature and current Heitz releases side by side, including the 1979 and 1985 Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons.

I've tasted the 1979 Martha's Vineyard on three separate occasions, and it continues to impress for its freshness, complexity, and unmistakable aromatic profile.

The bay laurel, mint, and eucalyptus notes that have become synonymous with the wine remain remarkably vivid nearly 50 years after harvest.

Two of the three oldest wines stood out on the day: the aforementioned 1979 Martha's Vineyard as well as the 1999 Trailside Vineyard.

The 1985 Martha's Vineyard, poured from magnum, showed a touch of cellar funk on the nose, but broadened beautifully across the palate.

The younger wines were equally compelling, though still firmly in their developmental phase.

Martha's Vineyard

Located in Oakville, Martha's Vineyard remains one of Napa Valley's most famous Cabernet Sauvignon sites.

When founder Joe Heitz first put ‘Martha’s Vineyard’ on the label of his 1966 bottling, it was the first time in Napa that the name of a site appeared on a wine label.

Martha's Vineyard takes its name from Martha May, the wife of vineyard owner and grape-grower Tom May.

The Mays purchased the Oakville property in the early 1960s. The roughly 34-acre (13.7ha) vineyard is known for producing wines marked by freshness, structure, and the distinctive bay laurel and eucalyptus character that has become its hallmark (eucalyptus trees line the perimeter).

While the fruit from Martha’s was exclusively sold to Heitz for decades, McCoy revealed that, for the first time in the vineyard's history, Heitz will not purchase the entire crop from Martha's Vineyard.

'I'm excited to see what other producers do with this exceptional fruit,' he said.

Trailside Vineyard

Purchased by Heitz in 1984, Trailside Vineyard is planted to 85 acres (35.3ha) in the Rutherford AVA, divided into 16 distinct blocks, based on a diversity of soil types, of gravelly loam and clay-loam.

The site is farmed organically, with biodynamic inputs. Several Cabernet Sauvignon clones are planted, along with Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Musque clones.

Trailside often shows a rusticity and dusty mineral character of red fruits, plus notes of sage, dried herbs, and fine tannins.

The 1999 Trailside, from a small, concentrated crop, showed the power and intensity possible from the site. Judging the wine on colour alone, you would think it was produced in the last five years.

The flavours, though, were so profoundly layered with loamy earth and tobacco nuances, along with the site’s characteristic freshness, that, save for those emerging secondary notes, it was almost hard to believe the wine was 27 years old.

Linda Falls Vineyard

Linda Falls represents Heitz's mountain-expression Cabernet Sauvignon.

Purchased and planted in 2002, at 1,500 feet (457m) elevation on Howell Mountain near the Linda Falls Preserve (a popular hiking destination with locals), only seven acres of the 42-acre (16.9ha) property are planted to vines.

The volcanic soils and higher elevation produce a markedly different profile from the valley-floor vineyards.

Dark fruit, conifer accents, crushed-stone minerality, and a firmer, more robust tannic structure define the wine, marked by the freshness so characteristic of Heitz and perfectly in place with the wines, thanks to the deft cellar work of winemaker Brittany Sherwood.

The library vintages across all three vineyard sites tasted in this Decanter Masterclass offered a compelling look at the longevity of Heitz Cellar’s iconic Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Heitz Cellar masterclass: Five decades, back to 1979

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Dana Nigro is an experienced wine journalist based in New Jersey, with extensive knowledge of, and contacts in, the North American wine industry.

She will work closely with Decanter's network of correspondents and contributors to deliver authoritative reporting, expert analysis and trusted wine recommendations for Decanter's global audience.

'I am thrilled to be joining Decanter, a brand I have long admired for its rich legacy, trusted expertise and commitment to providing consumers with reliable, timely wine education and buying advice,' said Nigro.

'I look forward to working with Decanter's talented team of editors and correspondents to build on its strong presence across North America, showcasing the diversity of the wine scenes in the US, Canada and Mexico, while bringing the latest developments in the region to Decanter's global audience and introducing even more North American readers to the brand's award-winning content, events and experiences.'

Jonny Sullens, Managing Director of Decanter, added: 'Dana understands both the traditions that make wine journalism valuable and the evolving ways audiences discover and engage with content today.

'North America remains one of the most dynamic and influential wine regions in the world, and Dana's extensive network, reporting experience, and passion for the subject make her exceptionally well positioned to lead Decanter's coverage.'

Jonathan Cristaldi, who served in an ambassadorial role as Acting North America Regional Editor from April until Nigro’s appointment, remains as Decanter’s Napa Valley correspondent, a position he has held since 2021.

Riesling, sustainability… and scuba diving

Nigro spent more than 25 years with Wine Spectator in New York City, where she started as news editor, then became a senior editor for the magazine and the digital managing editor – responsible for the website, social media and apps.

She fell in love with wine while studying magazine journalism in New York’s Finger Lakes wine region, where she took advantage of the excellent wine program at Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration.

As a result, one of her passions is Riesling. Another is sustainability in wine – from the vineyard soil to the winery buildings to the bottles (and boxes).

While reporting on US wine, Nigro reported on major developments, such as the battle to legalize direct shipping up through the US Supreme Court decision in Granholm v Heald, the rise of women in California’s wine industry, and the evolution of West Coast winegrowing from its early sustainability certifications to its movement toward regenerative farming.

Before her wine career, she worked at a fine-dining restaurant, served as a reporter covering local news and the international travel industry, and taught scuba diving.

Nigro can be contacted at teamusa@decanter.com

Winemakers are trained to think in grapes and, almost always, only grapes. Most will spend their entire careers relentlessly working within that single medium, fully aware that the craft is both exciting and unforgiving.

‘In wine, you get one harvest a year. Maybe 50 in a lifetime if you’re lucky,’ says Nick Gislason, winemaker at Screaming Eagle in Napa Valley’s Oakville AVA, who has taken on beer as another pillar of his creative outlet.

The built-in limits of winemaking, including the once-a-year window to make decisions in the cellar that will define an entire vintage, don’t exist in the same way in other beverage crafts.

Beer, for example, operates on an ongoing production cycle rather than a single seasonal window, with far more room to adjust and repeat in real time.

‘[Beer] makes you better at fermentation, because we’re working with yeast every single day,’ says Gislason. Even if the grains are harvested seasonally, like grapes, beer doesn’t unfold in a single moment. One batch is fermenting while another is being brewed.

An advantage over wine, he recognises, but one that makes it a complementary craft. ‘You learn how to manage air, temperature and timing in a more dynamic way. That absolutely feeds back into winemaking.’

From grape to grain: Hanabi Lager Co

Gislason created Hanabi, a small lager-focused beer label, around 2015.

For him, beer is not a side project, but another way of thinking through the same questions: how to grow grains for flavour, how to work with fermentation, how far one is willing to push risk in pursuit of something truly high quality.

Hanabi is an absurdly serious label. Unlike most brewers, Gislason is also a farmer, and he applies the same seriousness in viticulture as to grains, farming each variety differently, paying growers regardless of yield, going as far as reintroducing an ancient, almost extinct barley used in the first-ever Pilsners as Hanabi's flagship.

'For us, flavour is number one – even if the grain costs four times more or yields less,’ he says.

The label found its first audience among wine drinkers and sommeliers – The French Laundry and Single Thread, both Michelin-starred restaurants in northern California, were early placements – where Gislason's wine background likely carried weight.

These days, however, most of its consumers (it is distributed in six different states in the US and exported to Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Japan, Taiwan and China, about 25% of its total production) are serious beer drinkers who, as he notes, ‘often have no connection to wine’.

'Beer and wine, to me, are like different instruments. Like in music, you can play to people in a wider way if you use more than just one instrument.'

Reaching a wider audience

Dan Petroski of Massican, in Napa’s St Helena, also went on to play a whole new set of instruments to reach a wider audience.

Over the course of a decade, he explored making vermouth, beer and even gin alongside his wines, building by 2019 what he called 'world Massican': a universe he wanted to open to everybody, 'not just people who love white wine'.

The vermouth came to be almost as an accident, a result of wine barrels that didn't make the final blend: juice with nowhere to go. 'You cover the flaws. You aromatise it, sweeten it, fortify it,' Petroski says. His own version of ‘when life gives you lemons’…

'I then started to build this picture of myself as the guy who knew everything about aromatising alcohol beverages,' he says.

An earnest vision. But Petroski hadn't fully anticipated how separate the concert halls were. Wine, beer and spirits, it turns out, don't share the same road to the consumer.

At the time, managing three distribution networks proved one too many for a producer like Massican. The vermouth program ended in 2022. The beer and the gin did, too.

Since then, the brand has been acquired by Gallo (2023), and the infrastructure roadblock may no longer exist, so Petroski hasn't ruled out a return: 'I love the idea of doing it again,' he says – especially now, as 'the world is drinking slightly differently'.

Vermouth, however, remains very much alive at Matthiasson Wines in Napa Valley, where Steve and Jill Matthiasson have produced their farmhouse-style version since 2011 — now distributed across the US and exported to several countries, with Japan as its largest market.

While the couple had long been fascinated by apéritifs, their vermouth also began with a wine that fermented too far. Instead of discarding it, they transformed it using botanicals, fruit and bitters grown on their property.

In many ways, it feels connected to how they think about farming and wine — just another way of telling the same story.

Whiskey and wine

At Jackson Family Wines, which owns dozens of wineries and operates its own distribution channel, the infrastructure problem doesn't exist.

With Regal, one of California's largest wine distributors – an unusual position in a system designed to keep producers and distributors apart – the company operates on both tiers.

'Having the ability to represent high-quality spirits does serve a commercial or strategic purpose,' says Christopher Jackson of Stonestreet Wines in Healdsburg, Sonoma County, which produces Stonestreet Bourbon within the Jackson Family portfolio. 'I think it's smart to talk to the consumer across multiple different beverage platforms.'

The company released two bourbons in the past two years: Stonestreet, in 2024, which it sees as a more accessible whiskey, and Mt Brave in 2025: a cask-strength, vintage-dated expression made with collectors in mind.

For Mt Brave in Napa’s Mt Veeder, winemaker Chris Carpenter approaches whiskey blending the same way he does his wines.

‘A lot of the blending is layering flavours so none are lost, but they accentuate one another,’ Carpenter says.

‘When I'm matching different wine lots to the barrels, I’m thinking about how that barrel is going to contribute to the expression of wine. I'm thinking about those same things when I'm putting these whiskeys together.’

There's a longer game, by design, being played about how credibility travels in both directions here: a wine drinker who trusts Carpenter's palate has a reason to try the bourbon, while a bourbon drinker who respects the whiskey might feel compelled to try the wines.

Blurring boundaries

Tequila, too, has begun attracting the attention of prominent winemakers.

Bordelais consultant Philippe Melka recently released the first batch of a new tequila project, Felicente, in partnership with Vincent Garry, a veteran in the barrel business, after becoming fascinated by what he describes as a moment in the category that reminded him of California wine in the 1990s: smaller producers experimenting, challenging industrial styles, and trying to redefine quality.

Still in its early stages, the project focuses on organically farmed, high-elevation agave and uses winemaking techniques to produce three styles of tequila, currently distributed across Nevada, Arizona, Georgia, Texas, and California, with plans to expand starting next year.

It’s another sign of how fluid the boundaries between premium beverage categories have become.

Learning curves

But not every beyond-wine project is driven by commercial strategy. In a more modest way, Jamie Kutch added a new line to his Kutch Wines portfolio to address a byproduct problem: wine lees that, if dumped carelessly, could poison rivers and streams.

'It clogs up and kills the fish,' he says. 'This is a sustainable way to use them.'

Kutch distills a brandy from Pinot Noir lees, aged five years in neutral Chardonnay barrels. He makes just 90 bottles a year, sold out each release, including for at least one customer who has never bought his wine.

Winemakers usually don't set out to be anything other than winemakers, and most consumers don't turn to a winery looking for anything other than wine either.

But when something else appears, it often carries the same level of care – sometimes more – than most standalone products across other beverage categories.

Winemaking standards don't end with grapes. And it turns out the exchange goes both ways. 'Every time I'm in a new project, I learn something that I bring back to my primary project,' says Chris Carpenter.

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Against the backdrop of New York City’s iconic skyline, more than 600 fine wine enthusiasts joined 52 renowned producers at Decanter’s flagship Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) making this the most successful edition of the event to date.

Held on the 60th floor of Manhatta in Manhattan’s Financial District, the event brought together wine lovers and industry leaders for a rare opportunity to taste some of the world’s most iconic wines.

Set against a breathtaking setting, this year’s DWWA Winners’ Bar showcased 28 top-scoring wines, highlighting the very pinnacle of global winemaking.

The selection featured wines awarded 95 points and above, including Gold, Platinum and Best in Show winners from the 2025 competition. The line-up showcased the breadth of today’s fine wine landscape, from established classics in Italy, France and Spain to outstanding examples of their style from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and beyond.

Four out of the 50 Best in Show winners from Decanter World Wine Awards 2025 were featured at the Winners’ Bar and were amongst the guests' favourites. The line-up included the 97-point Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France NV, Clos du Val, Cabernet Franc, Stags Leap District, California, United States 2022 and Italians Diego Morra, Del Comune di Verduno, Barolo 2021 and Donnafugata, Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria 2023.

More highlights included five Platinum medal winners, each scoring 97 points from Spain, France and South Africa and US presenting.

The event also included a fantastic lunch option with a pairing sponsored by Eola Amity Hills and Château Sideraut, an excellent opportunity for the guests to continue to enjoy the vibrant atmosphere that embedded the event.

The Encounter also featured three sold-out masterclasses led by Salon & Delamotte Champagne, leading Super Tuscan producers and Napa Valley pioneer Heitz Cellar, offering guests a deeper insight into some of the wine world’s most celebrated names.

The celebrations continued into the evening with an intimate VIP reception for producers and invited guests that enjoyed Champagne from Laurent-Perrier alongside canapés, charcuterie, artisan cheeses and dark chocolate truffles, providing a fitting finale to the day.

See below for the full list of DWWA 2025 top-scoring wines sampled at the DWWA Winner’s bar on the day:

Sparkling 

• Terre del Cima, Extra Dry, Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2023
  Gold, 95 points
• No.1 Family Estate, Cuvée Methode Traditionelle, Marlborough, New Zealand NV
  Gold, 95 points
• Barons De Rothschild, Blanc De Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France NV
  Gold, 95 points

White

• Adegas Valmiñor, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2024
  Platinum, 97 points
• Eudald Massana Noya, Avi Ton Organic Xarel·lo, Penedès, Spain 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Rohe, Sauvignon Blanc, Rapaura, Marlborough, New Zealand 2024
  Gold, 96 points
• Sother, Château De Malessert 1er Grand Cru Chasselas, La Côte, Vaud, Switzerland 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Early Mountain, Petit Manseng, Virginia, United States 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Castelfeder, Family Reserve Kreuzweg Chardonnay, Alto Adige / Südtirol Riserva, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Ambar Estate, Lustral Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, Oregon, United States 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Vignaioli Contra' Soarda, Vignasilan, Breganze, Veneto, Italy 2017
  Gold, 95 points

Red

• Khachen Wines, Areni, Vayots Dzor, Armenia 2023
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas Y Viñedos Verum, Ilusioverum Cdvin Garnacha, Rioja, Spain 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas y Viñedos Luis Saenz, Ana Sáenz, Crianza, Rioja, Spain 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Alvarez-Alfaro, Selección De Familia, Rioja, Spain 2020
  Platinum, 97 points
• Domaine Sarrabelle, In Vinum, Gaillac, Southwest France, France 2019
  Platinum, 97 points
• Hasher Family, Batrachella Pinotage, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa 2022
  Platinum, 97 points
• Château Romanin, Le Coeur, Les Baux-de-Provence, Provence, France 2019
  Gold, 97 points
• Clos du Val, Cabernet Franc, Stags Leap District, California, United States 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Echolands Winery, Blue Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State, United States 2022
  Platinum, 97 points
• Diego Morra, Del Comune Di Verduno, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2021
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Watermill, Hallowed Stones Syrah, Oregon, United States 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Samā Cellars, Bhūmi Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State, United States 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Ernie Els, Proprietor's Blend, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022
  Gold, 96 points
• Avinodos, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, California, United States 2019
  Gold, 95 points

Sweet and fortified 

• Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria, Sicily, Italy 2023
  Gold, 97 points
• Tenuta Roletto, Passito, Erbaluce di Caluso, Piedmont, Italy 2013
  Gold, 95 points
• Curatolo Arini 1875, 10 Years Old, Marsala Superiore Riserva, Sicily, Italy NV
  Gold, 96 points

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