One hot summer day in early September 2021, I was helping Early Mountain Vineyards with the harvest.

We were processing Petit Manseng grapes and winemaker Ben Jordan wanted to show me something he and assistant winemaker Maya Hood White were working on.

He walked up to an old shipping container and opened the large heavy doors. Inside were mats and tables, with more Petit Manseng lined up on the mats.

I had read about this in my wine studies. In Italy, it is known as ‘appassimento’ where grapes are picked early to maintain their acidity, then dried ventilated rooms to concentrate the sugars.

I had never seen it done in Virginia, but Petit Manseng’s naturally high acidity made this an interesting experiment.

Innovations like these are common at Early Mountain. Today, they have an award-winning method known as ‘perpetual lees stirring’.

This was a creation of Maya Hood White, now the head winemaker at the winery.

The winery has one barrel, known as the ‘perpetual lees barrel’, which was started in 2017. The lees, spent yeast cells from fermentation, remain in the barrel every year.

Using the lees impacts more depth and savoury complexity to the younger wines. As of 2026, there are nine total vintages in the barrel. And the team has no intention of stopping anytime soon.

‘I want to be doing this for 100 years. We’re actually starting another perpetual programme to build on the volume’, said Jon Ruel, President of Early Mountain.

‘The cells are constantly breaking down and regenerating, so you don't know exactly how much of any one vintage is in there, but it gives the wine a unique personality,’ added Hood White.

While they were not the first winery to bring the grape to the state, they are a pivotal part of the grape’s position among white varieties.

Early success with Petit Manseng

Petit Manseng was first planted in Virginia by Dr. Tony Wolf of Virginia Tech University in 1987.

Dennis Horton of Horton Vineyards planted the grape just two years later in 1989 after working with wine consultant Alan Kinne. The grape thrived almost immediately.

Shannon Horton, the daughter of Dennis and current general manager of the winery, explained: ‘Alan said: “It has thick skins, loose clusters. We need that for humidity. It's like a natural rot repellent.” And Dad [Dennis] said: "Okay, let's put it in”.’

Horton eventually won the renowned Virginia Governor’s Cup in 2019 for its Petit Manseng, a rare win for a white wine.

Though Horton was technically the first winery to plant the grape, Shannon credits Virginia wine pioneer Michael Shaps for the inspiration behind their dry expression of the wine.

Shaps recalled: ‘Horton was doing the off-dry style, I took it to dry, and then Early Mountain really honed in on promoting that and featuring it.

'Early Mountain developed its Petit Manseng after making it here at my facility. It’s been fantastic to see the industry evolve over my 32 years here.’

Today, more than 179 acres (72 hectares) of Petit Manseng are planted across the state.

It is the second most planted white grape, and the third-highest planting of the grape worldwide.

The case for Petit Manseng as Virginia’s signature grape

Early Mountain took the baton for Petit Manseng from Horton and Shaps at its inception.

The winery has since become a symbol for why the grape could be a signature for the state.

Everyone starts with excitement for Petit Manseng as a near-perfect match for the climate here.

‘The looser clusters, thicker skins, its natural resistance to disease, along with the ability to maintain acidity in a region with warm nights is viticulturally compelling,’ noted Early Mountain's Ruel.

Horton added: ‘The other thing about the grape that makes it built for Virginia weather is that it can take rain and not change its chemistry. It will hold its sugars, it will hold its acid. It’s a very resilient variety for our climate.’

Since then, wineries have recognised the grape as a clear favourite. More than 60 wineries, nearly 20% of all wineries in the state, have Petit Manseng available.

In the most recent Governor’s Cup , the 34 bottles of Petit Manseng received medals.

The state remains focused on the customer as well. The team at Early Mountain discussed how customers are often looking for new interesting wines, and Petit Manseng is perfect for that.

Shaps also discussed the tasting room experience and how it is the primary selling mechanism for the state, no matter what grape we are focused on.

Newcomers in the state have also taken up the grape’s cause. Woodbrook Farm Vineyard planted its first vines in 2022 and was recognised in this year’s Governor’s Cup case for its 2024 Petit Manseng.

Novella Wines, a low-intervention label based in Monticello, kicked off its brand with a 100% Petit Manseng.

These wineries prove that Petit Manseng is no longer a successful experiment but a way to express Virginia’s voice in the industry.

Virginia Petit Manseng: 7 to try

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When consumers step into a Virginia winery, the array of options can be overwhelming. Tastings often feature around six wines, typically three white and three red, usually including a few favoured varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.

However, unlike most established American wine regions, Virginia hasn’t yet settled on a flagship grape that serves as its signature.

But, maybe, it doesn’t need one.

This is because, in most of these tastings, the experience will culminate with a red blend. Many of these are ‘Meritage‘ blends, a term coined in the United States for wines made using Bordeaux’s ‘noble grapes.’

These blends have become a true calling card for Virginia, a testament to both the unique vineyard conditions and the winemaker’s ability to answer every challenge vintage to vintage.

Scroll down for the best examples of contemporary Virginia Meritage

Why Blending Works in Virginia

Virginia’s viticulture is unique in a couple of important ways. Firstly, its climate is moderate, humid, and subtropical.

This means it can experience warmer temperatures than classic European regions, especially during summer, and generally receives more rainfall than top US wine-growing areas along the West Coast.

Vintages here can vary dramatically year-to-year. For instance, the 2023 and 2024 vintages were relatively dry and warm, yielding some of the best wines in recent history.

In contrast, 2022 saw significant challenges from powdery mildew, the threat of Hurricane Ian and spotted lantern flies, while 2021 contended with damaging spring frosts and downy mildew.

One might assume the pandemic was the primary issue in 2020, but a remarkable 13 hurricane events made that year even more challenging for grape growers. This variability underscores the necessity of blending to achieve consistent quality.

Secondly, Virginia’s focus on European-style blends is deeply rooted in its history.

A Bit of Wine History

While Virginia has emerged as a significant player in American wine over the past 30 years, viticulture here dates back to before the country’s founding.

As many may know, America’s third president, Thomas Jefferson, harboured ambitions to establish Virginia as a premier wine-producing region after his travels in France.

He even enlisted Italian winemaker Philip Mazzei to cultivate European grapes and form Virginia’s first wine company.

Although the American Revolution literally trampled this early experiment (in 1778 many of the vines were reportedly destroyed by horses running amok), the historic site where it all began is now home to Jefferson Vineyards.

This early aspiration to emulate Bordeaux remains an important influence.

Commitment to quality

Today, these red blends are a signature of Virginia’s world-class wines. The state’s commitment to quality is evident in annual competitions like the Virginia Governor’s Cup, a statewide competition.

Blind-tasted by a judging panel, gold medal-winning wines are eligible for the prestigious Governor’s Cup Case, with the top-scoring wine being the overall winner.

This year, out of 155 gold medalists, 89 were red wines, nearly 60%. Of those, 42 were blends, with 22 formally designated as Meritage blends.

At Decanter‘s most recent World Wine Awards, nine wines from Virginia received accolades. Seven of them were red wines, and four of those were blends.

While white wines are increasingly building a strong reputation in the state, these red blends consistently stand out as the category through which Virginia truly makes its name.

What’s Ahead for Virginia Red Blends

Though Virginia doesn’t claim a single signature grape, it has successfully cultivated a distinct identity through the Meritage blend.

These wines expertly leverage the state’s warm, humid summers and its long, if sometimes challenging, winemaking history.

At their best, these blends demonstrate a clear path to producing consistent, world-class wines in Virginia, year after year.

Virginia Meritage: 10 wines to find

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In June, big news shook the Virginia wine world: the Bouygues family, owner of Bordeaux second-growth Château Montrose, bought RdV Vineyards, marking its first acquisition outside of France.

RdV Vineyards, named for the founder Rutger de Vink, stood in as a ‘first growth’ for Virginia, with a small production of highly allocated wines each costing close to £200.

Not only does the deal testify to the triumph of the state’s quality Bordeaux varieties, but it also reflects the fine wine market’s belief in the future of Virginia viticulture.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 20 Virginia white wines

While much of the state’s acclaim has focused on its reds, many winemakers are betting on whites as the next success story. Having tasted through nearly 100 bottles myself, I feel the industry has good reason to feel optimistic.

A ‘Petit’ surprise

In newer wine regions, Bordeaux varieties often get planted first. Global pricing and prestige for Cabernet Sauvignon and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, entice winemakers with the promise of grape brand recognition. However, when it comes to whites, Bordeaux varieties don’t always suit the site.

Sauvignon Blanc has found its footing in many places in Virginia (and plantings continue to grow), but grapes that have prospered commercially and qualitatively run the gamut. Chardonnay and Viognier have been fruitful for the longest time, but a grape variety of relative international obscurity has rapidly risen to the top: Petit Manseng.

White grapes comprised 38% of the state’s plantings, with a significant jump in Petit Manseng since 2015 of more than 40 hectares. In 2022 Petit Manseng saw a 8.5ha (12%) increase in plantings over 2021 alone.

From the foothills of the Pyrenees in southwest France, Petit Manseng migrated across the Atlantic Ocean to alight in Charlottesville. Tony Wolf, a professor of viticulture at Virginia Tech, brought the grape from Jurançon in 1987 to test its suitability in the state’s humid, wet weather.

Today, on a plateau of a western slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Jeff White of Glen Manor likes the variety for its small, thick-skinned clusters, likening the resulting wines to Vouvray, made from Chenin Blanc.

A fit for the climate

‘Though it has different aromas, its high acidity and big flavours plus a little sweetness, for me, suggests that Virginia Petit Manseng can age similar to Vouvray – around 10 to 20 years,’ he says.

White believes it’s a great climate-proof grape for the state. ‘It fits Virginia well with our humidity and usual overabundance of rain. Tiny berries, loose clusters and tough skins hold up well to our environment. It’s the only variety I grow where I haven’t seen botrytis develop,’ he says.

Indeed, in my 20 recommended wines below, five are single-varietal Petit Mansengs and a sixth features it in a blend. In the past decade, winemakers have not only figured out best practices for farming it but also how to make compelling, complex wines.

Virginia Petit Manseng ranges between 14% and 15% ABV, tasting of pineapple, ripe peach and apricot, and finishing with a distinct salted caramel tang. Some even develop a Sherry-like nuttiness through micro-oxygenation during maturation in barrels.

Chardonnay can still shine

While Petit Manseng has developed a signature Virginia taste, Viognier and Chardonnay express site and winemaking more transparently.

Several knockout Chardonnays made my list. While Chardonnay has traditionally fared well in Virginia, quality and style have been uneven enough to avoid anointing it the state’s flagship white. In fact, Chardonnay plantings have gone down.

The likely reason ties to the site’s specifics: soil, climate, and exposure. While Chardonnay was long seen as capable of growing anywhere, great Chardonnay requires unique conditions to thrive. With years of trial and error, several wineries have nailed that formula; others have replanted with different grapes.

‘Identifying the right vineyard for each variety is key,’ says Early Mountain winemaker Maya Hood White. ‘Chardonnay benefits from well-drained soils and good exposure. But it is also very sensitive to frost and is usually the first variety hit in those years,’ she says.

Jim Law of Linden Vineyards is often considered the father of the state’s top Chardonnay. ‘Chardonnay becomes more interesting in cooler regions, notably higher-elevation sites found in the Shenandoah Valley and around the Blue Ridge Mountains,’ he says.

Law believes in extended bottle ageing before release. The current vintage for his Avenius Chardonnay is 2020.

However, Law remains deeply attuned to climate change. He shares email updates with members on his climate change trial plantings. Of 22 varieties, Fiano has grabbed his attention.

‘Fiano consistently produces stellar fruit. I have also been impressed with Barboursville’s Fiano. We are debating taking Fiano to the next level by planting a commercially sized block,’ he says.

Climate change and varietal adaptation

To his point, Barbourville’s Fiano also made my top 20 list. The winery has staked a claim with Italian varieties – unsurprising given it is one of the estates in the Veneto-based Zonin1821 portfolio. Barbourville’s winemaker Luca Paschina is also a third-generation winemaker from Alba in Piedmont.

In addition to an elegant Fiano, the winery produces an excellent Vermentino, another grape being trialled in warm regions for its adaptability to drought conditions.

Though Virginia is a mid-Atlantic state prone to downpours, especially during hurricane season, it also suffers long spells of heat and water scarcity, seen both this year and in 2023.

Many winemakers recognise the urgent need to adapt over next few decades. Grapes falling out of favour for some, though still capable of excellent wines, include Viognier.

Two decades ago, Viognier might have been approaching flagship status, but given its propensity for lower acidity, it’s become a site-sensitive variety, too.

While Virginia, like the rest of the world, must adjust to more erratic weather conditions and possibly a new climate paradigm, the state’s whites have never been better. Site-driven Chardonnay, rich Petit Manseng, bright Sauvignon Blanc, and a clutch of increasingly impressive Italian white grapes all demonstrate the state’s breadth of sites and winemaking talent.

Virginia white wines: 20 to try

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Virginia’s RdV Vineyards has been acquired by Eutopia Estates, set to be the new brand name for the Bouygues family’s wine portfolio and which includes Château Montrose in Bordeaux.

Under the deal, RdV Vineyards will also be renamed Lost Mountain. It has been named after its founder, Rutger de Vink, since being established in 2006.

It is the Bouygues family’s first winery purchase outside France. While several Bordeaux estate owners have purchased properties in California, the deal also reflects RdV’s success with ‘Bordeaux’ grape varieties in Virginia.  

Its 37.6-hectare (93-acre) estate has 7.3 hectares (18 acres) of vineyard, of which 50% is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, with 22% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot.

Wines include ‘American grand cru’ Lost Mountain and also Rendezvous, with production of around 1,200 and 1,000 cases per year respectively, according to a press statement.

Financial details of the acquisition deal haven’t been disclosed, although RdV founding winemaker Joshua Grainer MW will continue at the estate, as both winemaker and MD.

Pierre Graffeuille will be CEO and president of the new-look Lost Mountain.

Graffeuille is CEO of Montrose and also MD of the Bouygues family’s SCDM wine business, now to be known as Eutopia Estates and which also includes Château Tronquoy in Bordeaux, Clos Rougeard in the Loire Valley and Domaine Rebourseau in Burgundy. Charlotte Bouygues is leading Eutopia’s strategic development.

RdV’s oenological consultant Eric Boissenot is highly respected for his work with many top Bordeaux châteaux, especially on the Left Bank, while the group also works with well-regarded viticulture consultant Jean-Philippe Roby.

Both were named in the team set to take the group forward into its new Lost Mountain chapter.

Brothers Martin and Olivier Bouygues have business interests in telecoms, construction and media, and the family had an estimated fortune of €3.75bn (£3.16bn) in 2023, according to French magazine Challenges.

Montrose was the brothers’ first winery purchase, in 2006. They have invested significantly in the estate, including by renovating its cellars.

Recently released Montrose 2023 was rated 98 points by Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent, Georgie Hindle, making it one of the top-rated wines of this still-in-barrel vintage.

Alongside the wineries mentioned above, Eutopia Estates also includes Distillerie de la Métairie in Cognac and a truffle farm in Chinon, Loire Valley, named La Truffière de Cément.

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Gerhard Bauer, 73, faces up to 20 years in federal prison after pleading guilty to a mail fraud scheme, which saw him steal from his employer.

Bauer was the CEO and president of the unnamed international company’s US subsidiary, and his activities raised suspicion.

Prosecutors said that he created fake invoices and wrote company cheques in order to steal the funds. Investigators spoke to the company’s current CEO, who said that the business ‘would not purchase any of these items or services in its ordinary course of business’.

The US Attorney’s Office revealed that Bauer used almost $1.5m in embezzled funds to build Otium Cellars and Goose Creek Farms in Purcellville, Virginia.

According to the court statement of facts, Bauer also used the company’s money to buy hundreds of bottles for his winery in 2017.

He used $357,683 to pay off his credit card debt, according to the affidavit, and he also spent $146,416 on a relative’s private school tuition at the exclusive Foxcroft School in Virginia.

The farm was set up to raise and sell Hanoverians, a horse breed of German origin. Otium Cellars was sold in 2021.

The Loudoun County Sheriff’s Office and the US Secret Service’s Washington Field Office helped with the investigation.

Bauer was arrested and charged with mail fraud. US District Judge Leonie M. Brinkema accepted his guilty plea.

He is scheduled to be sentenced in November. Bauer faces a maximum penalty of 20 years in prison, but actual sentences for federal crimes are typically less than the maximum penalties.

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Today, vintage variation and prices challenge the Virginia wine industry. This is exacerbated by the fact that the region is a gateway for many new American wine drinkers. The region’s producers deserve legitimacy, and they’ve earned it.

Still, cultivating a loyal clientele willing to pay $40-$60 (£31-£47) per bottle year in and year out remains challenging in a developing market.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of Virginia red wines from the 2019-2021 vintages

Differing vintage conditions, avoiding for the moment generalisations about the impact on quality, has long been accepted in Europe’s great wine regions.

However, America’s east coast producers contend with a few domestic problems: competition from the wealth of reliably ripe and consistent red wines streaming out of the West Coast and the high local cost of production. These domestic concerns are further compounded by the amount of qualitative and quantitate international reds coming into the country from South America (Chile, Argentina) and the Mediterranean (Italy, Spain, France).

This makes vintage variation, which can swing wildly given the humid growing conditions on the eastern seaboard, a challenge for a wine region attempting to gain a foothold and create for itself a sense of style. Especially because so many of their clients are still getting to know the subtleties of wine.

Virginia’s key regions either sit close to Washington D.C. and its corresponding cost-of-living sprawl, or they lay near the gentleman farms and equestrian estates of old money elites found south of Middleburg down to Albemarle County near the University of Virginia. It’s just not a cheap place to make wine – it’s too beautiful, too historic and too wealthy.

Virginia’s last few vintages detail this conundrum with clarity.

Style remains elusive

For many, 2019 proved one of those rare seasons of warmth and aridity that lowered the collective blood pressure of the industry. At the same time, it allowed winemakers the freedom to hang grapes longer and take liberties with oak, extraction, and style. Some of the best wines from 2019, tasted for this report, made the top list. Many of them also ring up at over USD 50 a bottle.

Consumers were finally sold on Virginia’s rightful place at the peak of the quality pyramid, willing to pay premium prices for structured, complex red wines from 2019. Then 2020 hit with frost and rain. Now they had to be coaxed into appreciating lighter, softer, luminous styles immediately after. Given that restraint and elegance are trending in wine tastes, that’s not an impossible pivot.

Virginia winemakers must work hard, stay vigilant, and remain agile. Fortunately, the state can ripen myriad varieties with its warm climate and mix of altitudes, exposures, and soil types, allowing producers to hedge against vintage unknowns. Varietal Tannat, Petit Verdot, and Blaufränkisch look especially promising in a sea of classic red Bordeaux varieties. Several examples stood out in this tasting.

Some vintners would argue that knowing one’s soil and topography comes first in the quality pursuit, while climatic influences fall second. To that point, one winemaker spoke about the arrogance of 2019’s lovely weather. Observing how ‘we pushed the fruit too far, let it hang too long. That was a luxury, and I revelled in it. But we learned from our mistake in a great vintage how to make better wine in a less desirable vintage.’

Here’s a brief look at the current three vintages on the market.

Virginia: Regional Profile plus the 10 best wines to seek out

The 2019 vintage

Following a notoriously fraught harvest in 2018 (heavy rain, hurricanes, tornadoes, and flooding), winemakers welcomed the relatively easy conditions in 2019. Spring arrived without the bite of frost ushering in drier weather throughout summer and fall. Warmer weather led to fuller, structured red wines. Firm and velvety with ripe tannins. Many hailed it as a superb vintage. Now, with several years of maturity, that proclamation seems true. The 2019 class, especially the Bordeaux-style red blends, show remarkable integrity and longevity.

The 2020 vintage

Producer fears of a warm spring triggering early budburst, then decimated by a late frost, were realised in 2020. There was damage throughout Piedmont, in some cases severe. Overall, the growing season was cooler than in 2019. It was a robust tropical storm season, with 13 storms reaching hurricane strength. They ravaged southern Piedmont and the southeast, while Shenandoah Valley remained relatively dry. Overall, this should be an excellent vintage for white wines.

Red wines fared differently by region and appellation but also by site-specific vineyards and grape variety. Tayloe M.B. Dameron, wine director for Upper Shirley, located in the newly formed Virginia Peninsula AVA, says they had a dry season. This let them hang fruit longer for perfect phenolic ripeness, despite their location in the southeast between Richmond and Norfolk.

Upper Shirley grows Tannat, a disease-resistant grape showing great promise as a flagship for Virginia due to its full-body, dark and earthy flavours, and age-worthiness. As proof of its staying power, the 2017 Upper Shirley Tannat made this list, still bearing primary fruit and tannic grip.

Melanie Natoli, the winemaker for Cana Vineyards in Middleburg, dealt with more challenging conditions, noting heavy rain in August, with high winds and hail. More rain came at harvest, coupled with disease pressure. ‘Each season, it gets a little less scary. Learning to work with mother nature is the key to success since we’re making wine together.’

Despite the personal challenges of winemakers, I had a clear line in my notes: the best red wines of 2020 were more mid-weight in body. They offered freshness, fruity brightness, and youthful accessibility with lower alcohols. Essentially, they’re an expression of style, not a reflection of good or bad quality, and they are well worth seeking out.

The 2021 vintage

Generally, the season was hot and dry, with several storms of notable severity. The aridity helped offset the spread of downy mildew, which thrives in Virginia’s humid clime. Several regions calculated modest losses after late spring frost. Overall, yields fell, but quality, for many, matched the 2019 vintage.

Though just bottled, the red wines ‘show great promise and balanced profiles,’ according to Natoli.

Only a few 2021 red wines were submitted for this report, but what I tasted hit the sweet spot of energy and purity. Keep an eye out for this vintage to hit the market.

Vintage reports offer a mere glimpse at the big picture. If anything, they serve as insight into vintners’ struggles to marry the business and labour of wine with artistry in the cellar.

Dameron says they get creative with blending during vintages with less fanfare. ‘We try different oak regimens and try to hold the red wines back in the cellar longer. We are just now experimenting with co-fermentation with Viognier,’ he says.

This brings the story back to managing consumer expectations. Most Virginia wineries are small and needn’t court big markets to sell inventory. Direct-to-consumer (DTC) remains an important sales channel. Still, it’s also the closest a winery comes to connecting with the end consumer, emphasising the development, and nurturing of those relationships.

Emily Hodson, winemaker at Veritas Vineyard, believes wine drinkers have matured in two positive ways. ‘The “go local” movement and evolving consumer appreciation for wine as something “grown, not made,” have helped in less desirable vintages,’ she says.

‘I think consumers are much more understanding of vintage-to-vintage variation and are enjoying the story more than about everything being the same all of the time,’ she says. 

As the region continues to develop and the consumer base alongside it, there is a strong potential for the challenges that Virginia’s vintage variation presents to become a strength.

Vintage Virginia 2019-2021: top red wines to try

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Boela Gerber is heading to the United States for a new adventure in the heart of the Monticello AVA in Charlottesville, Virginia.

He will be taking over as the winemaker at Southwest Mountains Vineyards, a new winery located in the Keswick area of Albemarle County.

Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Viognier, Petit Manseng, Grüner Veltliner, Merlot and Cabernet Franc are among the varietals being produced there.

It marks an exciting new chapter for Gerber, who took over as winemaker at Groot Constantia in January 2001, six years after graduating from Stellenbosch University with a degree in oenology and viticulture.

He emerged as one of the most tireless and passionate champions of high-end South African wine, and he also spent two years chairing the Cape Winemakers Guild.

Gerber said it had been an honour and a privilege to work at Groot Constantia – the oldest wine estate in South Africa – for more than two decades.

The winery is famed for its high-quality reds, including Shiraz, Merlot, Pinotage and the Gouverneurs Reserve blend.

‘It has been career-defining to be a part of the winemaking team that played a leading role in establishing Groot Constantia as a producer of fine wines among local and international consumers and in being an ambassador for South Africa’s oldest wine-producing farm, with its rich heritage and history,’ said Gerber.

‘Leaving was not an easy decision to make, but I am very excited about this new adventure in the heart of the scenic Monticello AVA in central Virginia.

‘Groot Constantia and the team will always have a special place in my heart, and I am incredibly proud of what we have achieved. I know that the team – under the guidance of Floricius Beukes, Groot Constantia’s viticulturist, Jean Naudé, and the new winemaker – will continue to excel in the years ahead.’

Gerber will now head to Virginia to start work at Southwest Mountains Vineyards, which plans to open this summer.

There are more than 350 wineries in Old Dominion, and it is the eighth-largest wine producing state in America.

The Monticello AVA was established in 1984 after six growers petitioned the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms to designate a Monticello viticultural area, which is named after the estate of former US president Thomas Jefferson.

It spans five counties and 320,000 hectares, straddling the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains. There are 40 wineries in the AVA.

‘We are happy for him as he takes on this new role and flies the South African flag proudly on the global stage,’ said Groot Constantia chief executive Jean Naudé.

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Central Virginia boasts America’s original winemaking history. Thomas Jefferson famously acquired vineyards and attempted at-home winemaking at Monticello during the late 18th century. The region is ripe with vineyards often right next to former battlefields and other places of significance to American history.

Beyond its rich history, Central Virginia offers an ideal wine getaway for nearly any traveller. For urban dwellers looking for a bit of action, the ‘Downtown Mall’ of Charlottesville offers a plethora of great places to eat and drink. Travellers looking to experience the outdoors will enjoy the area’s surrounding mountain landscapes – perfect for hiking, skiing or cycling.

History buffs will take delight in the nearby Civil and Revolutionary War sites, period-inspired festivals, and more.

From a viticultural perspective, it’s no surprise why grape growing has taken off in Virginia, particularly within Central Virginia. The eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains create ample hills and valleys dominated by granite-based clay soils – perfect for cultivating a slew of both vinifera and hybrid varieties.

A long, 200-day growing season allows the fruit to reach peak phenolic maturity, while large diurnal temperature swings keep acidity in the berries fresh and abundant.

For those looking to enjoy the best that Central Virginia’s winemaking scene has to offer, we recommend posting up in downtown Charlottesville as a home base. You can use the city’s central location as a jumping off point. Renting a car will offer the most affordable and accessible means of transportation, though hiring a driver for the day (we recommend Albemarle Limousine Service) offers a hassle-free and safe way to enjoy wine tastings.

Best of all, Central Virginia’s moderate daytime temperatures make visiting anytime of year pleasant, though we find the most exciting times to be around bud-break (spring) and harvest (late September through October).

A tasting tour

With over 300 wineries across the state, there’s certainly no shortage of places to go when planning a wine-focused trip to Virginia. As with any region, we recommend going in with a loose plan and a few must-hit places – leaving some flexibility for spontaneity. However, no trip to Virginia wine country is complete without a visit to Early Mountain Vineyards.

Although relatively young, this iconic Madison-based winery has been making waves across both viticulture and vinification realms since its early days in 2005. Now spearheaded by forward-thinking winemaker Maya Hood White, this unmissable estate is putting out some of Virginia’s most exciting and thoughtfully-crafted wines.

Pours range from experimental pét-nats to Bordeaux-inspired blends and beyond. Stay for lunch, grab a seat on the expansive outdoor patio, or simply post up at the tasting room counter and get lost in conversation with the winery’s knowledgeable team.

After a morning spent at Early Mountain Vineyards, hitting Hark Vineyards (approx. 25-min drive) is an excellent way to spend some time before returning to downtown Charlottesville. Founded by Aaron and Candice Hark just a few years back, this new-to-the-scene winery specialises in affordable, easy-drinking wines that are perfect for popping on the large outdoor space and enjoying with a view. Be sure to sample a few of winemaker Jake Busching’s private label wines while on site. 

Located closer to Charlottesville is Stinson Vineyards, an equally unmissable stop for wine lovers of all palate preferences and knowledge levels. Tucked away in the Blue Ridge Mountains, this family-owned estate is spearheaded by husband-and-wife team Rachel and Nathan.

Longtime lovers of French wines – and inspired by the great ‘garagiste’ wines of France – the couple focuses on Bordeaux and Loire Valley grape varieties. Stinson implements generous whole cluster use and sur-lie ageing in the cellar, often experimenting with skin-contact vinification and a variety of ageing vessels (concrete, amphora, etc.).

It’s impossible to talk about Virginia’s winemaking scene without mentioning Michael Shaps – the unofficial godfather of modern day vinification across the state. After enrolling in oenology school in Beaune in 1990, Shaps worked harvests in Puligny-Montrachet before moving to Virginia to take a role at Jefferson Vineyards in 1995. He went on to launch a number of Virginia-based brands (including King Family Vineyards) and officially opened his own winemaking operation in the heart of Meursault in 2004.

Three years later, in 2007, Shaps founded Virginia’s Michael Shaps Wineworks. In addition to crafting his own thoughtfully-made wines (including his noteworthy varietal Viognier and Petit Manseng), Shaps now services numerous clients at his custom crush facility.

Situated just 15 minutes from downtown Charlottesville is King Family Vineyards. A family-owned and operated winery located in the heart of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. After producing just 480 cases during its inaugural 2000 vintage, today, King Family Vineyards crafts over 10,000 cases of wine annually.

Overseen by Rhône-born winemaker Matthieu Finot, King specialises in high-quality wines which highlight the unique growing sites and micro-terroirs of Virginia’s Monticello AVA. (Note: Finot recently began his own eponymous side project, Domaine Finot, which is an absolute must-try when in town.) 

Finish off the journey with a 15 minute drive west to Veritas. Enjoy a bottle of wine in the stunning, fireplace-equipped tasting room. The winery’s vintage, traditional-method sparkling may just be the best bottle of bubbles coming out of Virginia today.

My perfect day in Charlottesville

Morning

Start the day with a simple-yet-filling breakfast sandwich at Blue Moon Diner, one of the city’s most beloved establishments. Enjoy an egg and cheese on a biscuit in a classic American diner. The setting has serious retro vibes, with unlimited coffee refills to boot. Head across the street to Quirk for an early check in (if possible). Peruse the on-site art gallery and gift shop laden with locally-produced goods, then head next door to Quirk Café for a large coffee to go.

Grab your rental car or meet your driver and trek up to Early Mountain Vineyards. Grab a curated flight of Early Mountain wines or spring for a regional Virginia-focused tasting. These feature wines from both Early Mountain and nearby estates. Enjoy a seasonal lunch of small plates and mains at the tasting room dining room, or dine al fresco.

Afternoon

On the way back from Early Mountain, hit another vineyard or take some time to enjoy Charlottesville’s Downtown Mall. Grab a cocktail at The Whiskey Jar or get your caffeine fix at Mudhouse Coffee Roasters. Snag some locally-crafted souvenirs at Rock Paper Scissors or peruse the shelves at New Dominion Bookshop – the oldest independent bookseller in the state of Virginia. For those looking for a palate cleanser, head to Champion Brewing Company or South Street Brewery for some refreshing, locally-produced pints.

Evening

For a late-afternoon dose of wine tasting, head to Michael Shaps Wineworks Extended, accessible from downtown Charlottesville in 5 minutes by car. Taste through Shaps’ delicious line-up of Virginia-based wines, and for curious French wine fans, be sure to peruse his line-up of French imports.

Post-tasting, head back to Quirk, drop off any acquired bottles, then head a few doors down to Public Fish & Oyster for one of the best daily happy hours (4-6pm) in town. For pre-dinner craft cocktails in a true speakeasy, it’s The Alley Light, located on one of the side streets of the Downtown Mall.

After a long day of tasting and drinking, head to Belmont-based Tavola – arguably the best restaurant in town. Delicious homemade pasta and authentic Italian fare (don’t skip the eggplant parmigiana). Post dinner, grab a late night bottle at Crush Pad, Charlottesville’s best wine bar/shop, located on the Downtown Mall. For a last late-night cocktail before bed, take in the views at the rooftop bar at Quirk Rooftop Bar.

Your Charlottesville address book: Where to eat, drink and visit

Eat

Tavern & Grocery  The building was home to the first African American-owned business in Charlottesville and is now a cosy, rustic venue known for contemporary American cuisine.

Café Frank Classic French restaurant and apéritif joint in downtown Charlottesville serving up homemade cuisine and tasty drinks.

The Nook Long-standing diner establishment with Charlottesville roots dating back to the 1950s, known for traditional breakfast favourites, cosy indoor booths and ample sidewalk seating.

Mockingbird Newly reopened restaurant in the Belmont neighbourhood beloved for hearty, belly-filling southern fare.

The Southern Crescent Belmont-based, family-owned restaurant meshing traditional fare from Louisiana, the Caribbean and other parts of the American south. Excellent bar programme (known for its tropical tiki cocktails) and tons of outdoor seating. 

Oakheart Social Located just outside of the Downtown Mall, this bustling, modern eatery is known for its New American-inspired fare, craft cocktails and spacious outdoor terrace. Reservations recommended.

Little Star Modern American meets Mexican meets Spanish in the best possible way at this world-class eatery; bar space is small yet fierce, reservations recommended.

Drink

Mudhouse Coffee Roasters Award-winning coffee shop beloved by locals known for responsibly-sourced beans and a variety of caffeinated beverages.

Lightwell Survey Co-founded by Ben Jordan (formerly of Early Mountain Vineyards), this self-proclaimed ‘unique, new era’ winery is crafting thoughtful, experimental wines from a handful of off-the-beaten path varieties.

Lost Saint Charming speakeasy bar located in the basement of Tavern & Grocery – open Thursday to Sunday. 

Visit

Ix Art Park Non-profit art organisation with regular immersive exhibitions – a place meant to inspire and support art education for all. Don’t miss the outdoor farmers’ market on Saturdays. 

Carter Mountain Orchard Local mountainside orchard just outside of downtown Charlottesville known for fruit picking, a country store and a variety of local produce and baked goods (as well as breathtaking views).

How to get there

Main airport: Charlottesville Albemarle Airport (CHO)

Additional Airports: Richmond International Airport (125km), Washington Dulles International Airport (168km)

Train: Charlottesville Amtrak Station

Driving Distance: Richmond to Charlottesville – approx. one hour (105km), Washington DC to Charlottesville – approx. 2 hours 45 minutes (185km)

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Virginia wine-growers, already suffering Covid-related tourism and restaurant losses in April 2020, were dealt a further blow when frost hit in May. Workers battled an extended cold snap with bonfires, smudge pots, wind machines and helicopters. The result was minor frost damage for all and major devastation for some.

Any remaining optimism withered like so many young buds when freezing temperatures a week later cost vulnerable sites their entire 2020 vintage. As of early September, those who survived had the possibility of an otherwise solid harvest.

Scroll down to see Jason Tesauro’s 10 best wines from Virginia

It’s an apt case study in topsy-turvy perseverance: hope for the best, prepare for the worst. Or, as Virginia’s longest-tenured viticulturist, Barboursville Vineyards’ Fernando Franco, put it: ‘Just another challenging, beautiful Virginia vintage.’

‘Emerging’, ‘up and coming’, ‘under the radar’ – each term has found its way into a trendy headline about Virginia – a tourist draw state that lies in the heart of America’s Atlantic east, sharing borders with North Carolina to the south, Maryland to the north, and Washington DC across the Potomac river. Some 18 years after the late Michael Broadbent MW first touted Virginia in his column in this magazine, and 10 years after making countless ‘rising star’ and ‘regions to watch’ lists, Virginia is betting on something more bankable than transient novelty: transportive quality.

Slow burner

Even if you’ve never visited central Virginia, smooth Cabernet Francs convey in their warm, earthy cassis the iron-rich red clay from ancient Blue Ridge foothills of oxidised greenstone; in northern Virginia, elegant Chardonnays and Bordeaux blends whisk you along steep granite slopes and well-drained sandstone; and Shenandoah Valley, protected from wind and rain by Allegheny mountain ranges to the west, impel you up to cooler climate varieties thriving in limestone at elevations that bolster acidity and minerality.

Virginia’s wine timeline stretches back to when colonists planted vines in the early 1600s. But it’s a chronology of fits and starts, wars and pestilence, native varieties and hybrids, tobacco and teetotalling, until the 1970s. That’s when an idea first hatched by Thomas Jefferson in 1807 – Vitis vinifera flourishing in Virginia – at last reached commercial viability.

Yet it wasn’t until the late 1990s that anyone outside the region really knew or rightly cared. By the mid-2000s, serious critics were noting legitimate standouts; then came the 2010s, a decade that saw Virginia’s popularity explode – the new darling of sommeliers, critics and tourists.

Virginia at a glance

Producers: More than 300 wineries and 400 vineyards

Area under vine: 1,515.5ha (average vineyard size 6ha)

Annual production: 90,840hl (2019)

AVAs (in descending order of importance): Monticello, Middleburg, Shenandoah Valley, Northern Neck, Williamsburg, Virginia’s Eastern Shore, Rocky Knob, North Fork of Roanoke

Key varieties (in descending order of vineyard area): Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Vidal Blanc, Petit Verdot, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Norton, Petit Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Tannat

Key soils: Clay (central VA), granite (northern VA), limestone (Shenandoah Valley) Climate Humid, warm to hot climate, 8cm-10cm average monthly rainfall, notable vintage variation

Source: Virginia Wine Board

In 2013, Virginia’s stars were Bordeaux blends. Eight years on, it’s a far more varied slate: delicate sparklers, adventurous whites, a panoply of rosés, beguiling reds and terrific sweets. Tannat and Petit Verdot shine here. So does Viognier: ‘It’s the one Virginia wine that I can pick out blind,’ says Nadine Brown, an influential sommelier who ‘turned to Virginia for more Old World-style wines than you find in California’.

Quiet confidence

There’s daring in the air. It’s not youthful arrogance, but a quiet confidence born of trial and error. Even outlier vintages such as 2020 have historic comparisons from which growers and makers draw wisdom and technical cues. That it has taken decades instead of centuries speaks to the collegial spirit of collaboration. There is still surprise, but veterans here are too smart to be flummoxed, too grounded to be cocky and too much in love with their land to be dispirited by the weather.

Emily Pelton, head winemaker at Veritas Vineyard & Winery, says: ‘I love seeing the progression of our winemakers in reacting beautifully from one drastically different vintage to the next. Hot-dry, cool-wet, cool-dry – you name it. We’re rolling with it and showing off our vintages unabashedly.’

Virginia is a constellation of tiny viticultural areas; in part, because varied topography, soil composition and microclimate deter mega-vineyards. There are eight recognised AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), but three main geographic regions: northern Virginia, central Virginia and Shenandoah Valley. At 110,780km2, the state comprises almost the same surface area as Bulgaria, yet produces only about one-tenth of the wine (total Bulgarian wine production was 1.04m hl in 2018, according to international wine industry body the OIV).

Total output in 2019 reached 90,840hl – less than half of Greece’s total of about 2m hl (according to EU Commission estimates). The number of wineries has doubled to more than 300 in the past decade, though the area under vine increased only by about 20%, the Virginia Wine Board says, while yield averages remain below 49hl/ha.

A rich mix

Virginia is too heterogenous to be a two-grape champion like Burgundy. Instead, there’s an A-Z spice rack of pure vinifera and hybrids available for fine-tuning to site, like a game of rock-paper-scissors: earlier-ripening varieties beat autumn chill, thicker-skinned varieties trump the rains, and hybrids best most pests. In the cellar, creative blends (red and white) are coping mechanisms in the face of vintage variance. ‘Look at the region as the many different microclimates it is,’ says Swati Bose, co-owner of Flight Wine Bar in Washington DC. ‘Virginia is experimenting and discovering its potential. I’m excited to see focus on vineyards and varied terroir, not one defining variety and style.’

This is all driven by a shift toward understanding wine from the ground up. Jim Law, wine-grower behind Linden Vineyards, explains: ‘Rather than the old “hail Mary” approach of site selection, people are talking about the soil/site/vine/quality relationship. It took the Europeans hundreds of years, but I’m hoping that in the information age we can move faster. The key to progress is not cleverness in the cellar, but wise vineyard establishment decisions.’

Giant leap

Fly into Dulles International Airport and you can go from tarmac to Tannat in under an hour. Northern Virginia’s Loudoun County is touted as ‘DC’s wine country’: with binoculars, to the southeast you can see the Washington Monument from Bluemont Vineyard’s panoramic terrace. Given the proximity and variety of new wineries and experiences, this is the most exciting corner of Virginia and among the most intriguing in US wine.

‘Over the past five years, Virginia wine has taken a giant leap in quality, more than any other span in history,’ says Christine Vrooman, owner of Ankida Ridge Vineyards. She points to ‘improved viticulture, new varieties, recognition of place, more sophisticated winemaking, and plantings in higher elevations’.

‘I’m really optimistic about the potential in Shenandoah Valley,’ says winemaker Michael Shaps. ‘Great dirt, climate, value – and people!’ Vrooman agrees: ‘Climate change is driving growers to high-elevation viticulture – cooler climates, slopes and porous, rocky soils. The desire for mountain fruit has become a “thing”. Varieties thought not to grow in Virginia are now gaining recognition for high quality when grown at elevation.’ Ankida Ridge’s Pinot Noir, which is grown at 550m, is a prime example.

Where else can you start an evening with crisp blanc de blancs, shift to unctuous Petit Manseng and finish with a heady Tannat? During the Covid-19 pandemic, Virginia’s wine industry was deemed ‘essential business’. Now, gourmands and would-be world travellers who once pooh-poohed wineries in their own backyard are curing cabin fever with day-trips into Virginia wine country. East Coast Americans who envy their counterparts in the Mediterranean are – at last – embracing their own Blue Ridge bounty, and this wine culture is hitting stride in synchrony.

Some say that the best Virginia can do hasn’t even been planted yet. Until then, there are already so many things producers can count on while being adventurous. Vineyards mature, growers wisen, winemakers innovate, wines improve – this makes it a golden time to drink Virginia wine.

Virginia wine: 10 names to know

Ankida Ridge Vineyards 

From the moment the Vrooman family staked out a tiny vineyard in Amherst in central Virginia (far from the proven soils of the Monticello AVA and higher in altitude than anyone thought wise), friends and lovers of Pinot Noir alike had fingers crossed. It might be a quest to track down their wines, but it’s worth it if you succeed.

Barboursville Vineyards 

This pioneer of modern Virginia winemaking is the New World outpost of an Old World stalwart – Italy’s Zonin family. Piedmont-born Luca Paschina, the winemaker for more than 30 years, blends a farmer’s humility, a chef’s palate and a winemaking acumen in full artistry. Octagon is the flagship red blend of this central Virginia estate, but a litany of Italian varieties shine.

King Family Vineyards

Crozes-Hermitage-born winemaker Matthieu Finot brings authenticity, expertise and character to one of central Virginia’s most esteemed wineries. He’s won the big awards and earned the industry’s respect with charm, a consistently excellent portfolio and no hubris. Don’t miss his Cabernet Franc, Meritage, Crosé rosé and a standardbearer Viognier.

Lightwell Survey Wines 

In partnership with sommelier/ restaurateur Sebastian Zutant and winemaker Ben Jordan of Early Mountain Vineyards (a next-wave gem in its own right), this hip winery in Shenandoah Valley is unapologetic in its use of curious varieties from high elevations in provocative blends. Cool, raw wines with great labels and real personality.

Linden Vineyards

In Virginia, any fanatical devotion to vineyard sites might as well be nicknamed ‘the Jim Law of the Land’. When other wineries welcomed buses, concerts and weddings, Linden doubled down on soil care and meticulous plant material selection. It shows in a precise line-up of vineyard-designated wines that express the undeniable promise of northern Virginia.

Stinson Vineyards

Many central Virginia producers are family-based, but this one is next-level. Winemaker Rachel Stinson is married to Ankida Ridge’s Nathan Vrooman. She makes quirky, fun, garagiste-style wines in her dad’s reclaimed three-car garage. Try her terrific Tannat and some bold experiments: Mourvèdre rosé, Rkatsitelli orange wine, and Sauvignon Blanc fermented in a concrete egg.

The Vineyards & Winery at Lost Creek

Aimee and Todd Henkle bought this northern Virginia property in 2012. Their wine immediately burst onto the scene as a showcase of Loudoun County fruit grown with sustainable practices and kid-glove treatment in the cellar: Linden Vineyards whole-cluster pressing, extended macerations and slow fermentations. The reds show tremendous depth and restraint where it counts.

Veritas Vineyard & Winery

A true family affair, started by two Brits: former neurologist Andrew Hodson and his wife, Patricia. Their daughter Emily is the winemaker and son George the general manager. Besides a killer sparkler, dynamic Viognier and sleek reds, the central Virginia estate has a gorgeous inn boasting fine English hospitality and a terrific chef.

Virginia Wineworks 

Winemaker Michael Shaps has one foot in central Virginia and another in Burgundy (Maison Shaps). Two continents, but one style: finesse. Look for Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, an excellent Meritage and his late-harvest Raison d’Etre. He also produces solid quaffers under the Wineworks label and consults for scores of other Virginia producers.

Walsh Family Wine 

Arguably the most exciting wines in northern Virginia right now. Wine-grower husband Nathan and wine-educator wife Sarah make outstanding modern wines with real passion and a minimalist approach in Loudoun County. Unlike boutique producers whose wines can only be found at the cellar door, Walsh ensures theirs get a place on restaurant wine lists and in the wider marketplace.

Scroll down to see Jason Tesauro’s 10 best Virginia wines

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The 1,800-hectare (4,500 acres) estate in has the potential to house Virginia’s largest vineyard, should the new owners wish to begin a major planting project, said the listing by Daniel Heider and Justin DiFranco of TTR Sotheby’s International Realty.

There are just 8ha (20 acres) of vines at present, but a further 61ha (150 acres) have been ‘prepared for vineyard expansion’, says the listing.

There is also a working craft brewery, 26 family rental properties, several event spaces, a recently constructed 12,000-square-foot mansion, 20 lakes, a go-kart track and ‘miles of private river frontage’.

If sold at close to the asking price, the Wall Street Journal reported that the property would become Virginia’s most expensive home.

Neighbours include the Monticello estate of Thomas Jefferson fame, lying around 25 minutes away by car near, plus several well-known vineyard estates, including Dave Matthews’ Blenheim Vineyards.

Known as Mt. Ida Reserve, the property is also around three times larger than the nearby Trump Winery & Estate, according to the listing.

It says that part of the estate was once owned by Bernard Arnault, CEO of the LVMH luxury goods empire that today includes Krug Champagne and Château d’Yquem.

Sotheby’s said the current owner of the estate has invested nearly $100m over almost two decades to transform the property.

According to the listing, ‘The income producing estate is perfect for a family compound, corporate retreat, flagship corporate campus or long-term investment.

‘Alternatively, the property is a prime candidate for a conservation and/ or stream impact easement offering significant tax benefits.’

Virginia has cultivated vineyards since 1619, but recent decades have seen rapid development on the state’s wine scene, as Decanter contributor Jill Barth noted in this introductory guide to the region.

Top grape varieties include Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

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Social distancing and the continued lockdown of bars and restaurants may put a dampener on usual Fourth of July festivities. But fireworks or not, you can still celebrate Independence Day with some great American wine.

With California responsible for 81% of all US wine – making it the world’s fourth-largest wine producer – it’s likely that Golden State wines will be the foundation of many a party this Saturday.

But for the full patriotic stars and stripes experience, branch out and toast American independence with wines from the great states of Oregon, Washington, New York, Virginia and Texas.

We’ve selected a dozen Independence Day wines, from a delicious Long Island fizz to an award-winning Loudoun County sweet wine. Or try a High Plains Tempranillo, a Yakima Valley Chenin Blanc as well as classic Pinots from the Willamette Valley.

And if your Fourth of July party isn’t complete without some top California bottles, try these Rhône-style California wines for under $50. Otherwise, search through our extensive wine database for your perfect American wine – red, white and blue-chip.

Fourth of July wines: beyond California

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For the first time in 15 years, a sweet wine took top honours at Virginia’s 38^th annual Governor’s Cup Wine Competition.

In another first, 868 Estate Vineyards’ Vidal Blanc Passito 2017 is the only wine from 100% Loudoun County fruit to have won Virginia’s premier wine award.

In five of the past 10 years, the Governor’s Cup has gone to a red blend from Central Virginia, which includes the Monticello AVA.

This year 19 judges, headed by Master of Wine Jay Youman, tasted and rated 530 wines from more than 300 Virginia wineries. Over half of the 64 gold-medal winners (those scoring 90 points or more) were red blends, mainly of Bordeaux varietals.

The top-scoring dozen wines win a place in the Governor’s Case, which this year includes a Tannat blend, a Vermentino and another sweet wine from the hybrid Vidal Blanc variety.

Virginia resident and wine importer Bartholomew Broadbent was a judge. His father, the late Michael Broadbent, was one of the first to shine a spotlight on the state’s wines following a visit in 2002.

The Governor’s Case and overall Governor’s Cup winner were announced at a gala in late February, just ahead of the lockdown imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic.

Yes, there were black ties and speeches, but the after-party took place at a bowling alley. Nothing strikes down fustiness quite like winemakers and sommeliers in funny shoes.

It’s a fitting image for Virginia’s new role. No longer a trying-to-impress upstart and not yet a too-cool-for-school untouchable, the state finds itself on self-assured middle ground.

While red blends will always make sense in this state, with its mercurial climates and variable vintages, quality is expanding beyond the familiar styles and varietals of yore – as well as expanding beyond the reliable terroirs of Central Virginia.

Virginia’s 2020 Governor’s Case

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A new age for Virginia wines

Ramiiisol is what happens when you mix the foresight of President Thomas Jefferson that the US (and Virginia) could make wines to equal the best in the world, with the inspiration of Montalcino producer Gianfranco Soldera and the high-level science of its owners.

The three ‘i’s in the name refer to owner Robert Hefner III, and Alberto Antonini, the winery’s renowned consultant winemaker, pronounces it by extending the vowel a bit – Ramee-eesol.The ‘Ram’ comes from the first letters of Robert And MeiLi, his wife. Sol is, obviously, sun. In the logo, MeiLi’s brushstroke under the ‘iii’ makes it signify ‘mountain’, as in Virginia’s Blue Ridge foothills.

‘We made it up,’ says Robert, at the global launch of the winery and its two Cabernet Francs, at an intimate lunch at the Hefner’s London home in Cheyne Row.

Controversial Case Basse winemaker Gianfranco Soldera, who died aged 82 in February 2019, was a formative influence on the Hefners. They went to Tuscany to taste wine in 2005, and ‘Soldera stood out,’ says Robert. He talked to them of the importance of micro-ecosystems, of frogs and insects and of all those details in the making of great wine. ‘We went back every year. And we bought a property in the US eight years later.’They thought of Italy or France, ‘but neither of us speaks Italian or French’; they thought of Napa, but Napa is very thoroughly controlled and, says Robert, ‘I’m a free thinker. I learnt that from Soldera. I like the East Coast; it’s handy for travelling to London [where they have a house] and for my business [he’s a geologist and geophysicist]. We found a property in Virginia and 18 months later we bought it and we went for it.’

What they have today is 10ha of vines, mostly the mature Cabernet Franc that was already there, plus younger Cabernet Franc that replaced some badly planted Chardonnay. And there’s Nebbiolo too. The vines grow in decomposed red granite soils as part of a polyculture of forests, lakes, streams and wildflower meadows – that’s the Soldera influence – in a humid maritime climate with filtered light

They call their estate the ‘Ramiiisol terratorium’ of which vines are just one part: it’s a holistic approach that aims to achieve Jefferson’s goal of making wines in Virginia to equal any in the world. Renowned Chilean consultant Pedro Parra advised on the vineyards and the planting, digging more than 50 three-metre pits to study the soils.

The Hefners built an underground, solar-powered winery equipped with oak vats, casks and concrete eggs. There’s no fining, no filtration and no small new oak, and all the fermentation is with wild yeasts. It’s a small-scale operation, overseen by Virginian winemaker Robbie Corpora, and Robert can’t see it growing more than about 20,000 bottles a year.

Antonini was also greatly influenced by Soldera, and about 10 years ago began more and more to do less and less in the winery. ‘Robert says Soldera told him to forget everything he’d ever learnt. And what Soldera told me 35 years ago is what I’m doing now.’

Ramiiisol Vineyards debut releases

Virginia has cultivated vineyards since 1619, a long history for an American wine region, but the past 20-30 years have seen real development. Here are producers to watch and a selection of wines to try, plus news of a potential AVA...

Old world meets new world

It’s said that Virginia wine is one of the places where the old world meets the new world.

Matthieu Finot is winemaker at King Family Vineyards in Crozet; his 2014 Meritage won the prestigious 2018 Governor’s Cup. A native of Crozes Hermitage in France’s Rhône Valley, Finot works with Rhône, Bordeaux and Burgundian varieties.

Finot says that working in Virginia, is a ‘mix between freedom and tradition.’

Virginia’s ability to plant outside of appellation rules is beneficial, as growers are able to cultivate ancestral varieties as well as grapes that thrive in Virginia’s relatively hot and humid climate—candidates for the future with climate change.

‘We are a fairly new wine region so we need this freedom to explore, research and refine our combination of terroir and variety,’ says Finot.

‘But we are not reinventing the wheel—we just want to produce great wines.’ For Finot, this means wines with restraint, balance, subtlety and complexity.

New AVA on the horizon

The Williamsburg Winery has been pursuing a petition to form a new American Viticultural Area (AVA) for the Virginia Peninsula, a sector comprised of counties James City, York, New Kent, Charles City.

The state is already home to six AVAs, but Williamsburg has argued that Virginia Peninsula experiences distinctly higher temperatures and less rainfall than other growing environments in Virginia. The preservation of colonial history along the Virginia Peninsula trail is also culturally relevant, the winery has said.

The governing body Alcohol Tobacco Trade and Tax Bureau (TTB) has accepted the petition as ‘perfected’, which is generally a good sign that the designation will be awarded. There are currently 242 AVAs in the United States and new appellations become official in a trickle—one new AVA was established in 2017 and two in 2018.

 See also: Jason Tesauro’s at-a-glance guide to Virginia wine areas

A variety of varieties

Virginia is the sixth largest US state for wine grape production, with Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Viognier and Petit Verdot among the most-planted.

Emily Hodson, of Veritas Vineyard and Winery, told Decanter columnist Andrew Jefford in 2015 that Viognier could have a bright future in Virginia, with around 80 growers working with the variety. Viognier likes the extra hang time in September and is thick-enough skinned to withstand autumnal rains, she said at the time.

Particular interest is currently being paid to Petit Verdot, a variety that boasts solid tannic structure while being outwardly floral.

Often used in Bordeaux blends – sometimes called ‘Meritage’ wines – Petit Verdot is considered by some in Virginia as a peer to Cabernet Sauvignon in bold blends or even as a single varietal wine.

Also watch for Tannat, Albariño and Petit Manseng, all of which can handle Virginia’s humid summers and are seen as rising stars.

A selection of Virginia wineries to seek out:

• Barboursville Vineyards
• Michael Shaps Wineworks
• Ingleside Vineyards
• RdV Vineyards
• Early Mountain Vineyards
• Boxwood Estate Winery
• Linden Vineyards
• Delaplane Cellars
• King Family Vineyards
• Keswick Vineyards
• The Williamsburg Winery
• Glen Manor Vineyards
• Rosemont of Virginia
• Stinson Vineyards

Ten Virginia wines to try:

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Andrew Jefford looks at Virginia’s classic grape varieties – published 2015

Top Sonoma red wines for the cellar – published October 2018

President Donald Trump name-dropped the Virginia winery that he acquired in 2011 during a press conference on white supremacist violence in the state - but his comments don't appear to be entirely accurate.

President Trump reminded journalists of the winery he acquired in 2011 when asked whether he intended to visit Charlottesville, Virginia following the recent deadly violence that erupted around a white supremacist rally and counter-demonstration.

According to transcripts of the press conference, Trump said, ‘I own a house in Charlottesville. Does anyone know I own a house in Charlottesville?

‘It is the winery.’

He added, ‘I own actually one of the largest wineries in the United States. It’s in Charlottesville.’

The Trump winery itself has previously attempted to put some distance between its operations and the president.

Donald Trump did buy the winery in 2011, from Patricia Kluge, but it is currently run by his son, Eric Trump.

‘Trump Winery is a registered trade name of Eric Trump Wine Manufacturing LLC, which is not owned, managed or affiliated with Donald J. Trump, The Trump Organisation or any of their affiliates,’ says a disclaimer on the Trump winery website.

• See William Kelley’s tasting note on Trump winery’s vintage sparkling wine

Plus, it is debatable as to whether the winery could count as one of the largest in the US. Annual production has been estimated at around 36,000 nine-litre cases of wine per year, equivalent to 432,000 bottles.

While that means Trump winery is among the biggest in Virginia, figures released by industry publication Wine & Vines yesterday (15 August) show that hundreds of wineries were estimated to have a higher level of production.

The publication’s analysis, updated in July 2017, said that there were 65 US wineries producing more than half-a-million cases and a further 263 ‘medium’ wineries producing more than 50,000 cases annually.

California accounts for nearly 90% of US wine production.

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Sommelier Jason Tesauro opens up a few bottles in the name of research and reports on experiments with ageing Virginia wines.

What do we know about how Virginia wines age?

‘To join the pantheon of great wine regions, Virginia needs roots and ageability’

Last October , the Michelin Guide added Washington DC as the fourth American city to earn its own little red book.

It has taken decades, but the DC food scene has evolved to offer world-class restaurants.

And but a cork’s throw away, whether by coincidence or conspiracy, Virginia wine is evolving in lock-step with Capitol region cuisine as serious and varied stuff worth exploring.

This article was first published in Decanter magazine: Subscribe here

It’s one thing to be the new kid on the block, but to join the pantheon of great wine regions, Virginia needs more than ratings and proficiency.

It needs roots and ageability. When I first profiled the region for Decanter in 2013, we billed Virginia as ‘America’s Old World’, praising its 213 wineries for finesse, moderate alcohol and food-friendliness.

Four years later, the count is nearly 270, and more and more labels are showing up in the UK and abroad. That’s good news if you want to drink a bottle tonight, but are these Virginia imports also worthy of cellaring?

With such a young region – grapes have been grown here since colonial times, but the modern industry is only 40 years old – there aren’t deep stores of old wines. And there’s no employee handbook for Virginia winemakers telling them which grapes to grow and for how long to cellar them. In fact, when I contacted winemakers to enquire about age worthiness, the most common response was ‘we’re still answering that ourselves’.

‘How are these older wines performing?’

To find out, I raided my own cellar and assembled library selections from many of the state’s most stalwart producers. Things remain fluid in Virginia regarding her best-suited varieties, sites, clones and such, and thus our line-up spanned four AVAs, four categories (white, rosé, red, sweet) and 18 different grapes, including one American hybrid. The big question: how are these older wines performing?

Twelve friends sat with 45 wines, nearly 30 of which from 2010 or older. Neither a random selection nor an average sampling, this was a purposeful collection of Virginia’s benchmark estates. Around the table were top winemakers and sommeliers, plus one collector and a restaurateur.

Master Sommelier Robert Jones summed up the whole flight: ‘Nothing was too old or past its prime. But many wines had simply endured.’

This is an important observation, because not all wines are intended to age and not all wines improve with age. Forgetting the wines that simply weren’t excellent to begin with, we’re left with those that survived and those that thrived. A third of the older wines benefited, showing what sommeliers call ‘tertiary development’: those post-fruit complexities of earth, nuts, florals and spice that are sweet reward for patience.

Everything else just lasted. Those other wines had enough guts and structure for a journey, but the wines weren’t better for it, merely older.

‘Two wines immediately stood out as best reds of the night,’ said Jones at the end of the tasting. We all knew which ones he meant. Linden’s Hardscrabble 2006, a Bordeaux blend that showed beautiful density; and Barboursville Vineyards’ Cabernet Franc 2006, which exuded freshness and elegant structure.

There was one more big surprise. Well, three, actually: Chrysalis Vineyards, Locksley Reserve, Norton 2000, 2001 and 2002. These rich, American hybrid wines are only a third or halfway through their life.

Overall, the wines told us much. First, Virginia is not homogenous. Climate, terrain, vintage, cellar talent – these vary more than you’d expect. Second, the wines that didn’t shine weren’t faulty from age, but from too much trickery in the cellar.

Virginia shows best when her wines exhibit natural beauty more than cosmetic work. Her best also aim for lightness and finesse, not opacity and brawn.

Most importantly, we answered the big question.

‘Based on this set,’ said Jones, ‘Virginia’s wines can absolutely age.‘Just how far, who can say. Let’s do this again in 10 years’ time, shall we?’

Jason Tesauro is an author and speaker based in Richmond, Virginia, also working as brand manager and chief sommelier for Barboursville Vineyards.

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Andrew Jefford remembers his visit to Donald Trump’s winery in Virginia, and considers boycotts old and new amid an unstable political climate across the so-called free world.

Just over a year ago, I visited Donald Trump’s Virginia winery. It was a beautiful October day of long shadows and golden sunshine; the stately mansion on the hill was prefaced by manicured lawns and sinuous drives.

At that stage, Trump was just one of a number of Republican candidates seeking presidential nomination; but by dint of the insult and affront which characterised his campaign and monopolised social media, he had already accrued media attention worth $100 million, despite having spent a mere $2 million on his campaign. Little changed subsequently, other than the figures. As readers may have heard, he won the election.

Inside the Trump winery

The estate (Virginia’s biggest, at around 80 ha) was run by charming professionals, and the wines were all competently crafted, with a California rather than a European cast. The staff reported to Donald’s son, Eric Trump, whom General Manager Kerry Woolard described as “one of the best bosses I’ve ever had. Eric asks a million questions, but he will never tell you that he’s an expert, and he never over-rules what Jonathan [Wheeler, the long-term winemaker] and I decide.”

Like most US wineries, Donald Trump’s relies on Mexican workers to tend the vineyards. Nineteen of them come over from Mexico for nine months a year on the USA’s H-2A program, which allows “agricultural employers who anticipate a shortage of domestic workers to bring non-immigrant foreign workers to the US to perform agricultural labor or services of a temporary or seasonal nature.”

It was hard not to recall the winery owner’s remarks as he launched his campaign on June 14^th 2015. “When Mexico sends its people, they’re not sending their best. They’re not sending you. They’re not sending you. They’re sending people that have lots of problems, and they’re bringing those problems with us [sic]. They’re bringing drugs. They’re bringing crime. They’re rapists. And some, I assume, are good people.” I’d love to know how Donald Trump’s vineyard workers felt about those remarks as they laboured over his last two harvests. Were all 19 the sort of Mexicans which the morally unblemished Mr Trump might feel he could ‘assume’ to be ‘good’? Or did the 19 include the odd rapist?

At the time of writing, Donald Trump has not yet abandoned his promise to build a gigantic wall along the 3,100 km of USA-Mexican border, at an estimated cost of $25 billion – to be invoiced to Mexico. The rescission of his most wild and ill-considered electoral promises has, though, already begun, two months before he takes office. Historians may come to regard his election campaign as, more than anything else, an unscrupulous exercise in social-media manipulation for an age which had not yet learned to consume its social media in moderation.

2016 has been a ‘black year’

For those who believe in courtesy, tolerance, the respect of difference, in internationalism, in multi-culturalism and in helping those whose lives have been shattered by war and other forms of catastrophe, 2016 has been a black year around what was once proudly called ‘the free world’. Hungary’s president Viktor Orbán declares migrants, such as those fleeing Syria’s civil war, as “a poison” and a threat to “Europe’s Christian culture” – remarks of such perversity, theologically speaking, that I don’t know whether to laugh or cry. Turkey’s president Erdoğan is carrying out the most brutal campaign of internal repression ever undertaken by a NATO member. The president of the Philippines likens himself to Hitler and embraces extra-judicial killing. Emboldened by Britain’s planned ‘Brexit’, anti-immigrant nationalist parties across Europe are calling for the break-up of the EU, the politico-economic union which has maintained peace and stability in Europe since 1945, and brought prosperity and security to millions of European citizens.

Fresh debate over South Africa

Meanwhile, wine lovers fret as to whether they should resume their moral boycott of South African wines after a Danish documentary film reveals continuing inadequacy in farm-worker conditions in a few Cape wineries. Is there not a misjudgement of significant proportions here? Everyone wants to see progress in worker conditions on Cape wine farms; much has been achieved since 1994, even if much remains to do. South Africa, though, is a country which has accepted some 2.2 million migrants in recent years without those usually long-suffering and dispossessed people being described by successive presidents as “a poison”. Extra-judicial killing is not government policy there; in contrast to Turkey, journalists can still write what they want, and documentary film-makers film what they want, and judges decide what they want, in Johannesburg and Cape Town. As they do.

Are boycotts useful?

Should wine lovers concerned with social and racial justice consider boycotting US wine? And how about ‘Christian’ Tokaji and Egri Bikavér? What about Turkish wine? What about Sherry, the European wine region with the most investment from the Philippines? Would it not be better for European drinkers to turn their backs on perfidious English sparkling wine? What can the ordinary consumer do to register alarm and horror at the draughts of snake oil being liberally poured into political discourse, and avidly gulped down by the credulous, around ‘the free world’? Our external impact, whether we like it or not, comes primarily from our role as economic actors.

Well … no. In my view, boycotts of this sort are counter-productive and often hurt those they are designed to help. Boycotting US wines would be senseless: it was, after all, Hillary Clinton and not Donald Trump who won the Presidential election in California, Oregon and Washington, where most US wine is produced; she also, of course, has now won an astonishing two million more votes than Donald Trump across the nation. (Had these figures been reversed, Mr Trump was planning ‘revolution’.)

“We should pay credit to the Mexicans,” I heard a Napa winery owner say earlier this year. “They do everything here, they are the best workers, they work so dedicatedly; I get so angry when I hear that fool of Donald criticising the Mexicans.” Agreed, the speaker was Frenchman Christian Moueix, but many Napa owners and vineyard managers share his opinions. Drinking US wine is one of the most agreeable ways in which you might support the USA’s Mexican population against the barbs of Trump’s shrillest and most hysterical supporters.

Drink a bottle of Turkish wine before Christmas

‘No nation can be reduced to its political elite’

What is true of US wine is still more true of Turkey’s. It is hard for any of us living outside Turkey to imagine how beleaguered the nation’s wine producers (courageous of necessity) are feeling at present, and how easily circumstances might suddenly and catastrophically turn against them. Please, try to drink a bottle of Turkish Boğazkere or Őküzgözü before Christmas. Perferably both.

• See five Turkish wines to try

I have no idea how Hungary’s wine producers feel about their nation’s President — but since Tokaji is a mellowing, civilising influence, I hope that most are ashamed of his mean-spirited and unchristian defence of ‘Christian culture’, and would wish to disown it. Rodrigo Duterte is surely not the Philippino business community’s choice of President; it’s best, therefore, to carry on drinking sherry.

No nation, remember, can be reduced to its political elite, and persuasive engagement is always preferable to its opposite. After a year in which coarse and rancid language, and the coarse and rancid thinking which accompanies it, demeaned and fissured ‘the free world’, let’s hope we can drink (and argue) our way towards a more tolerant, respectful and open-hearted 2017.

More Andrew Jefford columns on Decanter.com

Credit: Andrew Jefford

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US presidential hopeful Donald Trump has used a press conference in Florida to promote his Virginia wines as the equal of any in the world.

Rival candidate for the Republican presdiential nomination, Marco Rubio, acccused Donald Trump of failing at several businesses, including Trump steaks.

So, Trump used his press conference in Florida this week to show off his commercial wares to journalists.

• Scroll down to see a clip of the press conference

He spoke for just under one minute about the businesses, and in particular his Virginia winery, where he produces Trump wines.

‘It’s the largest winery on the East Coast,’ he said. ‘I own it 100%, no mortgage and no debt.

‘It was John Kluge’s estate. He died [but] he built one of the great vineyards of all time. I mean, there’s nothing like it. It’s 2,000 acres (809 hectares) in Charlottesville, Virginia, right next to the Thomas Jefferson memorial and we’re very proud of it.

‘We make as good a wine as you can get anywhere in the world. I know the press is extremely honest so I won’t offer them any, but if they want they can take a bottle home.’

Trump’s full speech – listen from around 6mins 30seconds to hear the steak and wine comments.

Virginia wines have been gaining increasing recognition in fine wine circles.

Trump winery includes a hotel and wine tasting room, and has around 81 hectares of vines planted within the Monticello American Viticultural Area.

The estate produces sparkling, red and white wines. White grape varieties planted include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Viognier, and red varieties are the classic Bordeaux grapes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.

In December 2015, Trump was widely reported by US media as saying that he does not drink alcohol, in part following the death of his older brother, who he described as an alcoholic.

Greenhill Winery’s Blanc de Blancs and a complimentary tasting at the Virginia winery is included in this year's $200k Oscars ‘Everyone Wins’ gift bag.

The ‘Everyone Wins’ bag is handed out to nominees of the Best Actor, Best Actress, Best Supporting Actor, Best Supporting Actress and Best Director awards. This year’s recipients will include Leonardo DiCaprio, Jennifer Lawrence and Sylvester Stallone.

The gift bag, known as the ‘Swag Bag’, is full of lavish presents with the intention of cheering up those who did not win an Oscar. Although, winners still receive a bag, too.

The Blanc de Blancs 2013 is one of Greenhill’s first vintages after David Greenhill founded the estate, in the Middleburg AVA in Northern Virginia, in May 2013.

Its inclusion in the gift set is a vote of confidence for Virginia wine, which has received increased attention the past couple of years.

• READ: Andrew Jefford on Virginia wine

The Greenhill, Blanc de Blancs 2013 sparkling wine is made using the traditional method by winemaker Sébastien Marquet, who trained in oenology and viticulture in his native Burgundy.

To accompany the sparkling wine in the Oscars gift bag, Greenhill Winery is offering a complimentary tour and tasting to the Hollywood stars of their 128-acre estate. The Middleburg AVA, where the estate is located, is considered to have the best terroir in Northern Virginia for growing grapes.

Owner David Greenhill told Decanter.com, ‘I am honoured by the selection of our wines. We believe it is a true testament to the quality of Virginia wine and the wines being produced in Loudoun County Virginia.’

Greenhill’s Blanc de Blancs 2013, priced at $39, is featured alongside gifts such as a $55,000 five -star trip to Israel, a year of Audi A4 rentals worth $45,000 and some $275 Swiss made toilet paper. Slightly less extravagent gifts include a $6 ChapStick lip balm, a Dandi Patch deodorant worth $21 and a bottle of $99 maple syrup.

• READ: Decanter travel guide to Virginia

It looked as if Joaquin and I would meet in Virginia in early October. Happily, that didn’t happen.

Jefford on Monday

I was on best behaviour, of course, but the windiest Atlantic hurricane since Igor in 2010 would have thrown cars around and squashed the homes of those least able to rebuild them. In the end, Joaquin flayed itself to exhaustion in the Atlantic, though not before causing extensive damage in the Central Bahamas.

That didn’t mean Virginia escaped its attentions entirely: hurricanes travel with voluminous skirts — or kilts — of rain. Breaux is one of the state’s largest vineyards, with 42 ha planted, and as Joaquin passed it took a foot of rain (305 mm) in a day. Jenn Breaux had put out a ‘save our grapes’ mayday call the night before, having seen the way the forecast looked; hardy volunteers helped rescue the thin-skinned Merlot from the sheets of water. The thicker-skinned Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot and Cabernet stayed out for further ripening. They looked surprisingly unscathed to me in the languidly sunny days which succeeded the storm.

“Rain”, says the winemaking sage of Virginia, Jim Law of Linden, “is our biggest problem. That’s why soils matter here. If you’ve got big heavy clay, it soaks it all up.” (Breaux’s soils are granite-based sands and loams.) “You cannot be organic in Virginia unless you want to lose your fruit,” points out Rachel Martin of Boxwood Winery. The rain comes, moreover, with exasperating unpredictability. “There’s no such thing as a typical year in Virginia,” said Richard Leahy, author of Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the leading book-length guide to the state’s wines. “This is Virginia,” summarised one of the state’s winemaking pioneers, Gabriele Rausse. “She does what she wants.”

In terms of grape varieties, what exactly would the capricious Virginia like to do? The first modern-day plantings of vinifera vines came in 1973, but most of the growth has come since 1980 (there were 12 wineries in the state in 1979; now there are 270). Those first vines were Chardonnay, which still performs well here in certain locations (notably in Jim Law’s vineyards), and Bordeaux varieties and blends have been consistently successful since, despite – or perhaps because of — being as far from the Napa style ideal as it is possible to be. Thick-skinned Viognier, meanwhile, was elevated to the status of “Virginia’s signature grape” back in 2011. A brave choice. Is Viognier, I asked Gabriele Rausse, perfect for Virginia? “Nothing,” he smiled gravely, “is perfect for Virginia.”

I’ll be looking at Virginia’s ‘classical’ wines in a blog later this autumn, but for this week let me just tell you about the romantic alternative. There are two producing clusters in the state (technically a commonwealth, not a state) at present. The first is in its northern tip, close to Washington DC; the second is around the university town of Charlottesville.

OK: Jim Law says rain is Virginia’s main problem. Washington DC gets 1,036 mm of rain a year on average, and Charlottesville 1,211 mm. Are there any fine European winegrowing regions which might share similar figures?

Well, Madiran gets around 1,100 mm of rain a year, and parts of Jurançon up to 1,400 mm; both are wetter than Bordeaux, and far wetter than Burgundy. Those French sub-Pyrenean locations are cooler than the American vineyards under the Blue Ridge Mountains (Pau has a mean July temperature of 21˚C compared to around 25˚C for Washington and Charlottesville, though the average annual temperatures are almost identical, at 13.13˚C, 13.15˚C and 13.95˚C respectively); the Pyrenees, meanwhile, are a little sunnier (1877 sunshine hours annually in Pau compared to 1783 in Washington). The fit, though, looks remarkable – and, logically enough, Madiran’s thick-skinned Tannat is one of the best adapted grape varieties for rainy conditions, as are the thick-skinned, loose-bunched and small-berried Petit Manseng, as well as its slightly larger berried Gros Manseng counterpart. Might that be what Virginia wants to do?

It’s possible. Gros Manseng hasn’t got going yet in Virginia, but some of the very finest wines I tasted on my recent visit were made from Petit Manseng and Tannat, especially in the highly skilled hands of Michael Shaps. The sheer intensity of Petit Manseng predisposes it to dessert-wine use at present; better dry table wines will come once Gros Manseng has arrived to lend a hand. It would be great to see some Petit Courbu sail west, too.

Don’t forget Nebbiolo, either. This is another thick-skinned grape from a land of warm, humid summers and not infrequent downpours: Alba’s average rainfall is 950 mm and its mean July temperature is 23.2˚C. Nebbiolo, too, performs superbly in Virginia, showing every sign of being happier there than it is in more arid climates. Tasting notes for some fine Virginian examples of these varieties can be found here [link to t notes given below].

Thirty years is the mere blink of an eye in terms of the revelation of terroir, but finding the right grape varieties for a place is the most important single developmental stage in that process. Nothing may be perfect for Virginia – but Tannat, Nebbiolo and Petit Manseng are beginning to look more assured here than most of their varietal peers.

Andrew Jefford’s Virginia wine tasting notes:

Petit Manseng:

King Family, Loreley 2013

An outstanding Petit Manseng made in vin de paille style, and half aged in acacia barrels, this has buttered pineapple scents and a starburst palate of apple, kiwi, mango and apricot. Spellbinding fruit detail here. 92

Linden, Late Havest Petit Manseng, 2008

Lush, multi-faceted scents (pineapple, mango, apricot, peaches — and cream) with arresting purity and complexity on the palate. And fresh, too: hard to guess this half-bottle was already seven years old. 91

Lovingston, Petit Manseng 2014

A clever dry version where the sheer intensity has been toned down a little by carbonic maceration and the addition of 10 per cent Seyval Blanc: honeyed, crunchy, pithy. A delicious aperitif style. 89

Michael Shaps, Petit Manseng, Honah Lee Vineyard 2013

Barrel fermentation here both subdues and plumps out the piercing Manseng fruit as you sniff. On the palate, by contrast, it’s crunchy, vibrant, dramatic, arresting and very pure: a Virginian dry white of rare authority. 92

Tannat

Michael Shaps, Tannat 2012

Classically gruff Tannat scents: slabby clay, spaded earth, blood. A floral note provides a little lift, too. On the palate, this is uncompromising and very true to the varietal ideal: dense, driving and richly textured, with gravedigger scents of earth, humus and leaf mould. An outstanding effort from the quietly spoken Shaps (who divides his winemaking time between Virginia and Burgundy). 93

Nebbiolo:

Barboursville, Nebbiolo Reserve 2012

Very pale, with scents of mushrooms and earth more than fruit. On the palate, this is almost austerely dry and faintly saline, yet complex and full of intrigue: apple, red plum, tobacco and crushed acorn, with a treacle and raisin note, too. Fascinating. 89

Breaux Nebbiolo

Beaux has a long track-record with Nebbiolo, and in a seven-vintage vertical the stars were the very light, pure and elegant 2002 (89); the more richly flavoured 2006, full of earthy refinement (90); and the sumptuous and deeply fruited 2007 (90). Best of all was the 2010: still freshly fruity on the nose, with cherry, currant and cola nut notes, while the palate was deep, profound, planty and unusually succulent for a Nebbiolo, with classically Italian bitter back notes (91).

Gabriele Rausse, Nebbiolo 2013

Clear and light, with red fruit and roses on the nose. Graceful rosehip and cranberry fruit with vibrant acidity and fine-drawn tannins: elegant, digestible red wine. 90

Virginia fact file:

Total planted area: 1,214ha

Number of wineries: 220 AVAs Eastern Shore, Monticello, Northern Neck, North Fork of Roanoke, Rocky Knob, Shenandoah Valley (Rappahannock is not yet an AVA) Grapes (in Monticello and Rappahannock) Viognier, Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Norton, Petit Verdot

Quick links:

– Six of the best wineries to visit

– Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

Standing on the sweeping expanse that is the front lawn of Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello estate, one can appreciate his desire to bring viticulture to Virginia. With her gentle slopes and long growing season, this southern state seems ideally suited for winemaking. Yet despite 30 years of effort, America’s third president never bottled a single vintage.

• Read more Decanter travel guides to North America

Virginian winemaking continued to suffer setbacks long after Jefferson’s death, with the onset of the Civil War and, later, Prohibition. But today’sVirginian winemakers have proven that Jefferson’svision was spot on. The Monticello AVA nowcomprises a third of Virginia’s 1,214 vineyard hectares. Of the 220 wineries, more than 20 have garnered some form of national and international acclaim for their wines. Prince William and Kate Middleton even served Barboursville’s Bordeaux blend, Octagon, at their wedding last year.

Well-kept secret

Winding down the hillside from Jefferson’s estate into the dewy lush glades below, it becomes clear why the fantastic wine touring in Virginia is awell-kept secret among the locals. Curvaceous hillsides trimmed by white fences, dotted with horses, wildflowers and pine unfold in a carpet just beneath the Blue Ridge mountain chain. Softened by time, the forested mountains anchor this pastoral landscape where llamas stand guard overflocks of sheep, and apple orchards and vineyardsline the hillsides. Tucked in along the way areantique shops, roadside farm stands, farm-to-table restaurants, and even a few brewers and distillers crafting whiskey and speciality beers. This is indeed a land of artisans; whether they’re chefs, dairy farmers or winemakers, painstaking devotion to craft is the religion here.

At the centre of the Monticello AVA is the collegetown of Charlottesville, home to the University of Virginia, which Jefferson also designed. From here, four main wine trails radiate out, making it an ideal base from which to explore. Almost every winery has a tasting room that’s open daily, no appointment necessary. Because most wineries are small and produce very limited quantities, it’s also likely that you’ll meet the winemaker in the tastingroom – pouring the wines, meeting guests and answering questions.

The main varieties here include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon,Chardonnay and Viognier. Luca Paschina, a native Italian and winemaker for the highly acclaimed Barboursville Vineyards, wears his passion for Virginia on his sleeve. ‘We have a lot to offer here – history, landscape, minimal traffic, fine cuisine, and of course good wine. In less than 25 minutes you can be at Monticello or Montpelier (President James Madison’s ancestral home), in the Blue Ridge Mountains, on a Civil War battlefield or, of course, in a winery.’

To enjoy a deeper, more rural slice of theVirginian countryside, make the short one-hourdrive north into Rappahannock County. Nestled in palpable calm, you’ll find several intimate and charming B&Bs. At the Inn at Mount Vernon Farm, beautifully appointed rooms in the family manorhouse (dating back to the 1820s) overlook the sustainable, all organic family farm. This rural outpost is also home to the region’s Forbes 5-star Inn at Little Washington, where you should allow time to enjoy what should be an unforgettable meal. Rappahannock wineries are scattered about, roughly 10 to 15 minutes apart, so it’s best to havean itinerary before you leave. Wineries here play abit more loosely with grape varieties, so expect to try everything from a late-harvest Vidal Blanc, a Port-styled Norton or a Gewurztraminer.

European-style wines

Given the fertile offerings around Monticello and Rappahannock, each day of your visit could easily contain several winery visits along with a historical detour punctuated by a fabulous meal. Try to visitin October: the foliage will be in full autumnal splendour, harvest will be winding down, and temperatures will still be mild. Visiting during the week is best, thereby avoiding the throngs that crowd the tasting rooms on the weekends. Accommodation ranges from private rental homes and basic hotels to more luxurious choices such as The Clifton Inn and Keswick Hall.

Despite her charm, the Virginian terroir is a demanding mistress. John Delmare of Rappahannock Cellars notes: ‘We learn fast whatworks and what doesn’t, and we’re still learning.The fruit is very different in Virginia and as a result the wines are more delicate than those from theWest Coast; ours are definitely more European instyle.’ And, he adds, ‘We spend far more time in the vineyard coping with rain and humidity than any West Coast grower.’

As for wine, most winemakers agree that Viognier, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are Virginia’s strongest varieties. That could easily change; the region is a mere 30 years young. Indeed, experimentation is part of the evolution in Virginian wine… and the main reason why a trip here promises to be a tasty adventure.

How to get there:

By plane to Washington DC

From Dulles International, the drive to Charlottesville is two hours, or flights to Charlottesville are 20 minutes. Otherwise, connect to Richmond, Virginia, which is an hour’s drive from Charlottesville.

Written by Katie Kelly Bell

Next page

Virginia: Six of the best wineries to visit

☆Barboursville Vineyards

The winner of more awards than any winery in the state. Try the Octagon, velvety Cabernet Franc Reserve and Barbera Reserve. Leave time to explore the historical ruins on the property and finish with a three-course tasting lunch at the winery’s Palladio restaurant.

barboursvillewine.com

☆Gray Ghost Vineyards

Winemakers/owners Al and Cheryl Kellert produce everything from award-winning late-harvest Vidal Blanc to Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Cabernet Sauvignon. Visit during harvest and you’ll be invited to pick the grapes – it’s a community effort.

grayghostvineyards.com

☆Jefferson Vineyards

This property is the original site of Thomas Jefferson’s first vineyards. Today the elegantly balanced Viognier 2010 and the Meritage 2008 are the estate’s flagship wines.

jeffersonvineyards.com

☆King Family Vineyards

Watch the Sunday polo matches on the field flanking this sprawling vineyard. Then be sure to sample French winemaker Matthieu Finot’s worldclass Petit Verdot and Seven, a Port-style Merlot, fortified with brandy and aged in bourbon barrels.

kingfamilyvineyards.com

☆Pollak Vineyards

The large tasting room here overlooks a lovely pond; mountain vistas make up the background. Award-winning Viognier and lush, integrated Merlot are stars.

pollakvineyards.com

☆Veritas Vineyards

Originally from England, owners Andrew and Patricia Hodson moved to Virginia because of the area’s beauty. Their daughter Emily, voted US Woman Winemaker of the Year in 2007, crafts balanced and artful sparkling wines, Chablis-style Chardonnay, ageworthy Bordeaux blends and Petit Verdot.

veritaswines.com

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Virginia: Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

Hotels and Restaurants

Keswick Hall

Plush accommodation including a spa set amid a golf course fringed by jogging trails. This small luxury resort showcases the state’s exceptional produce in the hotel’s award-winning Fossett’s Restaurant.

www.keswick.com

The Clifton Inn

Rooms with mountain views provide a intimate setting for a romantic escape. Make sure you find time to savour a fine meal at the restaurant – the best seats are at the Chef’s Counter where you’ll be right in the heart of the action.

www.cliftoninn.net

Inn at Mount Vernon Farm

This lovingly restored turn-of-the century home is on a hillside overlooking the sustainable farm. Before fly fishing on the private riverfront, enjoy breakfast made from farm produce.

www.theinnatmountvernonfarm.com

Blue Rock

Located on 32 rolling hectares, in picturesque Rappahannock County, Blue Rock is a new take on the classic country inn. Breathtaking views overlooking a Koi pond set against a backdrop of vineyards and the Blue Ridge Mountains, create the perfect environment to have a glass of wine, delicious dinner, or throw a dream wedding.

www.bluerockva.com

Inn at Little Washington

The area’s only Forbes 5-Star lodging and dining boasts a raft of accolades including a place in the International Herald Tribune’s ‘Top 10 Restaurants in the World’. Playful twists on luxury defines this countryside gem.

www.theinnatlittlewashington.com

Shops

Market Street Wine

Charlottesville’s oldest wine shop boasts a large selection of Virginian wines complemented by fresh pastas, and local breads and cheeses. There’s also an artisan beer selection and wine accessories.

www.marketstreetwine.com

The Virginia Shop

This purveyor of everything Virginian has it all, including local jams, coffees and chocolates. The wine selection represents Virginia well, and you can pick up a locally crafted souvenir from the Jefferson Brass Company.

www.thevashop.net

Historic Downtown Mall

This is not a typical American mall, but rather an outdoor pedestrian shopping experience complete with antique shops, booksellers, clothing boutiques, live music, cafes and wine bars.

www.charlottesville.org

Tourist trail

Monticello

Thomas Jefferson’s home is a rewarding visit for its architectural features and the intimate peek it provides into the life of a great US president. You could easily spend three hours here, so plan accordingly.

www.monticello.org

Montpelier

The estate of President James Madison – the Father of the Constitution. Tour, walk the gardens and forest trails, visit the archaeological sites or bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the views.

montpelier.org

University of Virginia

One of Jefferson’s greatest architectural achievements, embodying his vision for academics and learning. Daily tours of the beautiful grounds include visits to the Rotunda, Academical Village and Pavilion Gardens.

virginia.edu

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It doesn't get the media coverage that California does, but Virginia is tipped to be the next big thing in American wine. Jason Tesauro picks out the varieties and producers that are bringing the area to wider attention, at home and abroad.

A dashing Dutch man emerges from his slick travel trailer to pour three wines, including his own. The 2008 Château Léoville-Barton (£65) will mellow, but in its adolescence, the second growth is standoffish. Flanking it, a voluptuous 2008 Colgin IX Estate Napa Valley Red Wine (£330). Standing between these classic examples of Bordeaux austerity and California opulence, an elegant yet juicy wine from a rising star and rocky hilltop one hour west of Washington, DC. Rutger de Vink’s RdV Vineyards Lost Mountain 2009 (£50) wins the day. Not surprisingly – I later learn – Jancis Robinson scored it 18/20.

• Read more Decanter travel guides to North America

Virginia wines are coming of age at the moment when American palates are doing the same. Despite California’s global rise in the 1970s, the US of yore still treated wine as a cocktail and fast food as a treat. Enter the era of slow-food consciousness and go-local fetishism. After years of high-octane wines – and one heck of a hangover – open-minded drinkers who have tired of the density, oak and alcohol often found on the west coast are now showing interest in Virginia’s delicacy, stainless steel and food-friendliness.

Ironically, since New World obsession never caught on in England, UK critics touted Virginia even before America’s own mainstream wine press. Michael Broadbent, for instance, reported on his first ‘seriously good wine’ from Virginia (the 1998 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon 3rd Edition) in 2001. Thus, 400 years after the Jamestown Experiment, the Brits have a new Virginia outpost. ‘The English want to like American wine, and Virginia consistently delivers finesse and elegance,’ says Broadbent’s son, US-based wine importer Bartholomew Broadbent.

‘They are a perfect bridge between the west coast and Europe,’ says Jennifer Knowles, sommelier at the famed The Inn At Little Washington. It is fate: the heart of Virginia wine country lies practically at the midpoint between Bordeaux and Napa Valley. ‘Very simply,’ said Steven Spurrier during a 2012 visit, ‘Virginia makes the kinds of wines I like to drink.’

Then…

Virginia’s wine timeline begins in 1774, when Italian viticulturist Filippo Mazzei planted clippings from France, Italy and Spain at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello. The 19th-century phylloxera blight and Prohibition (1919) wiped out the wine culture until Italy’s Zonin family founded Barboursville (1976) and ushered in the modern renaissance. In the 1980s, plantings shifted from French hybrids to vinifera, and the 1990s saw Riesling and Pinot Noir bulldozed in favour of Viognier, Cabernet Franc and Bordeaux varieties. Winegrowers fine-tuned their terroir thanks to a strong oenological and viticultural research programme at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, plus support from the tourism industry, Department of Agriculture and, most importantly, a kind of open-door collaboration unheard of in Europe. ‘We try to work collectively, not protect trade secrets,’ says Matthieu Finot (below), winemaker at King Family. By the late 2000s, Virginia had emerged as the fifth-largest wine-producing state in the US, thriving outside of California’s shadow alongside Washington, New York and Oregon.

…and now

As a predominately warm region, Virginia’s long growing season combines with varied exposure, altitudes and soil types to ripen most varieties. It’s far from love at first sight, however. Striking out on his own after an apprenticeship under famed Virginia winegrower Jim Law, Rutger de Vink devoted three years and 100 test holes to identifying RdV’s stone-ridden sweet spot of poor soils where highvigour vines perform best. A soil scientist first identified it as ‘nothing but a pile of rocks’. Only three harvests later, RdV is regularly named among the state’s best producers.

‘Soil is first and climate comes second,’ says Luca Paschina, winemaker and general manager at Barboursville, Virginia’s benchmark winery. ‘My number-one advice for each grower is to gain a better understanding of their soil. Some are still planting what grows in the market, instead of what grows well on their site.’ De Vink says: ‘We set out to continue what Luca had done, what Jim had done at Linden Vineyards, the pioneers of Virginia.’

Michael Shaps, winemaking consultant for more than 30 Virginia wineries, tells clients: ‘I can’t just wave the magic wand. Put your money into vineyards, not me.’ Old World regions cannot expand, but the New World can, if only as fast as its vines. Gesturing to a denuded hilltop where he has cleared 16 hectares, George Hodson, general manager at the family-run Veritas Vineyard & Winery, says: ‘Until we get significant investment in vineyards, we’ll be a novelty.’

Virginia’s tasting rooms are filled with accents, and not just from international visitors. Nearly 40% of the state’s winemakers are French, Italian, South African or Spanish expats, imported for their passion, patience and minimalist approach. Matthieu Finot, winemaker at King Family since 2007, studied in Côte de Nuits, Bandol, Jura and elsewhere. He says: ‘We’re used to bad weather and can adapt to what’s happening. A California winemaker will not know so well how to handle rain and vintage variability.’

Hodson’s sister, Emily Pelton agrees. As winemaker at Veritas, her skills weren’t forged at UC Davis like many American oenologists, but via a Masters degree in infectious diseases – and the frosts, droughts and rains that came with the job entrusted to her by her British parents.

Veramar Vineyard winemaker Justin Bogaty says: ‘We become better from challenging years.’ Veramar’s 2011 Cabernet Franc (12.7% alcohol) shows classic varietal tartness and smokiness, though it’s a tad thinner than in drier years. ‘Not bad for 36 days of sunshine,’ Bogaty quips. He’s a UC Davis graduate making everyday wines – with whole-cluster fermentation and gentle tannins – in part because there’s no empty space in his cellar for ageing: ‘I haven’t got a corner to tuck it into.

Calling cards

‘Virginia is innovative enough to grow Petit Manseng, but traditional enough not to reinvent the wheel,’ explains Pelton. Paschina adds: ‘We have to make wines that are excellent, not just very good. That means we should know our varietal limits.’

Investment in lesser-known varieties and Bordeaux blends is paying off with world-class recognition. Virginia’s white calling card is Viognier, which can show tremendous structure and depth here. ‘We’re trying not to get it too ripe,’ explains Finot. His 2011 is generously aromatic, handled in 70% stainless steel with the remainder in neutral oak, French acacia barrels and concrete eggs. Around the state, vinification varies, but top examples undergo sur lie ageing in steel or neutral wood to preserve the nose, freshness and minerality. Those with ample acidity even hold up to cellaring. Barboursville’s rare eight and ten-yearold Viogniers show honeyed hues, silky textures and plenty of life.

There’s nearly twice as much Chardonnay planted, though it shares Viognier’s leaner tendencies, with most wines either eschewing wood or evincing Burgundian restraint. Elsewhere, Thibaut-Janisson Winery introduced major méthode Champenoise fizz to VA, while Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and sophisticated stickies made from Petit Manseng and Moscato demonstrate aptitude and even mastery, but the number of plots is still tiny. Foggy Ridge Cider is also moving the needle with outstanding estate ciders from resurrected heirloom varieties that would please VA forefathers and the mother country alike.

The defining red grape of Virginia is Cabernet Franc. Francs here are medium-bodied and earthy with black fruits and high acidity. Andrew Hodson, Veritas’ patriarch, highlights delicate tannins reminiscent of Chinon and Burgundy: ‘It should almost be called Pinot Franc instead of Cabernet Franc.’ Bartholomew Broadbent declares that ‘Virginia makes the best Cabernet Franc in the world’. It has become the litmus test for site selection and winemaking talent: if someone’s Franc is plonk, don’t blame Virginia.

Around the world, Petit Verdot is consigned to a minor role in blends to boost acidity, tannin and colour. ‘It eats oak alive,’ says Pelton, and its backbone and inky hues enliven VA clarets, but its dill, violet and raspberry are producing complex monovarietal wines too. Spurrier is wowed: ‘I’m surprised Virginia can create that elegance in such a short time with Petit Verdot.’

Best of both worlds

To be taken seriously, the real meter sticks for Virginia are its Bordeaux blends. Whether to express terroir or compensate for variation, ‘blends are a huge tool for us,’ says Finot, and the driver is Merlot: elegant, St-Émilion-like and more consistent than Cabernet Sauvignon.

While Boxwood is decidedly hands-on, famous Johnny-come-latelies like Donald Trump and Steve Case (of AOL Time Warner) are planting their flags and their wallets, delivering not sweat equity but capital investment and industry buzz. Trump Winery’s SP Brut Rosé is already garnering more ink than the boss’s pink ties.

Virginia’s emergence is promising for Old World-leaning oenophiles sometimes caught between waiting for classified crus to mature and the vain act of pairing young fruit bombs with a meal. In that context, Virginia’s quality-to-value proposition is more in line with Old World wines. ‘There’s pushback,’ says de Vink of his £50 wine, yet every RdV sells faster than you can say ‘first of original 13 colonies’, so some might even argue for raising the price.

Then again, didn’t a quibble over the price of tea once land us in hot water? At least we’ve finally returned… with wine.

Written by Jason Tesauro

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It doesn't get the media coverage that California does, but Virginia is tipped to be the next big thing in American wine. Jason Tesauro picks out the varieties and producers that are bringing the area to wider attention, at home and abroad.

Virginia at a glance

The state has 230 wineries across nine regions and seven American Viticultural Areas (AVAs – see below). Central and northern regions represent nearly 80% of production. Piedmont is characterised by well-draining red clay; the north features low-vigour silt loam over crumbling granite; Shenandoah Valley is known for its limestone skeins; in the east and along the coast, sandy loam is common.

According to the Virginia Wine Board, Chardonnay is the most popular variety, followed by Cabernet Franc.

Central Virginia Region

• Monticello AVA (38 wineries): The ‘classico’ of Virginia. Foothills along eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Northern Virginia Region

• Middleburg Virginia AVA (24 wineries): 50 miles west of Washington, DC, with Potomac River to the north and mountains on the other three sides.

Shenandoah Valley Region

• Shenandoah Valley AVA (22 wineries): the state’s largest AVA. Bounded by Blue Ridge to the east and Appalachian mountains to the west.

Chesapeake Bay Region

• Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace AVA (11 wineries): Peninsula between Potomac and Rappahannock rivers on the Chesapeake Bay.

Eastern Virginia Region

• Virginia’s Eastern Shore AVA (three wineries): Atlantic to the east, Chesapeake Bay to the west. Sea breezes and sandy soil.

Blue Ridge Highlands Region

• North Fork of Roanoke AVA (two wineries): Summer heat tempered by cool, foggy mornings
• Rocky Knob AVA (two wineries): Well-drained loam and gravel. Southern Virginia, Hampton Roads, Heart of Appalachia Three regions dotted with a dozen wineries; no AVAs.

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It doesn't get the media coverage that California does, but Virginia is tipped to be the next big thing in American wine. Jason Tesauro picks out the varieties and producers that are bringing the area to wider attention, at home and abroad.

Recent vintages

2012 Very good. Record early bud break led to early ripening. Producers who pruned performed very well.

2011 Uneven. Whites fared well, reds from northern regions ripened better than central producers who endured much September rain.

2010 Excellent. One of the driest vintages. Warmer-than-average summer led to early harvest. Balance/finesse for those who didn’t pick late.

2009 Outstanding. Wet spring, followed by a dry summer and beautiful September; hurricanes dodged in October. An even and ideal season destined to become a classic.

2008 Very good. Long growing season. Diligent canopy management and late harvest led to elegant, ageable wines.

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Middleburg, Virginia has become the state's newest American Viticultural Area.

Boxwood Estate: started AVA process

Middleburg is the seventh Virginia AVA, joining Eastern Shore, Monticello, North Fork of Roanoke, Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace, Rocky Knob, and Shenandoah Valley.

The area, 50 miles (80km) west of Washington DC, bounded by the Potomac River to the north and the Blue Ridge Mountains to the west, has ten commercial vineyards consisting of 229 acres (92ha) of vines, and 14 wineries.

The process for applying to the US government’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) was started in 2006 by Boxwood Estate executive vice-president Rachel Martin; various names for the AVA were proposed, with some parties preferring Northern Virginia Piedmont.

The region grows some dozen different varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot, Sauvigon Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Syrah, Tannat, Traminette, Vidal Blanc and Viognier.

Red Bordeaux blends are common, as are varietal wines such as Cabernet Franc and Viognier.

Middleburg wines have had some international successes, notably Boxwood Estate’s Silver and Bronze at the Decanter World Wine Awards for its two blends, Topiary and Boxwood. Five other Virginia wineries won medals at the DWWA this year.

Virginia is celebrated as the birthplace of American wine, with a viticultural tradition that goes back 400 years to early colonial attempts to plant vines. Today there are some 200 wineries in the state, inlcuding Donald Trump’s Trump Winery in the Monticello AVA.

Written by David Furer

Patricia Kluge has left the winery she used to own a year after US property billionaire and former presidential candidate Donald Trump bought it in a foreclosure deal.

Trump Winery: ‘finest in the country’

Kluge built the 800ha Charlottesville, Virginia estate in 1985 with her husband John Kluge, who was named America’s richest man in 1987 by Forbes. She took possession as part of her divorce settlement in 1990, and started work on a lavish winery in 1999.

With the services of Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland the winery – near Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate and now called Trump Winery – garnered positive, if not glowing, reviews.

But from 2008 Kluge was in difficulty. She declared bankruptcy in June 2011.

Trump bought the auctioned vineyard for US$6.2m, and installed his son Eric to run the business. Kluge, a longtime friend of Trump senior, accepted an offer to remain as its VP of operations and to assist the younger Trump.

Now, the New York Post reports, Kluge has been relieved of her full time duties; her husband Bill Moses retains his position as general manager.

‘We are still working with her a little bit, and we still have a good relationship with Patricia,’ Donald Trump said. Kluge told the Washington Post there was no bad blood between her and the Trumps.

‘I will be forever grateful to Donald for saving the winery,’ she reportedly said.

Eric Trump said, ‘We have 300 acres (121ha) under vine, which puts us the largest winery on the East Coast’ and declared his intention to develop the property into ‘one of the finest vineyards in the country’, and to convert the property’s mansion into a luxury hotel.

Written by David Furer

The Virginia winemaker who famously gatecrashed a White House dinner has announced his intention to run as state governor.

Tareq and Michaele Salahi before the estrangement

Tareq Salahi, who with his now-estranged wife Michaele turned up uninvited at a 2009 White House state dinner where they met President Obama, will run for the Virginia governorship in November 2013.

Salahi, proprietor of the Oasis Winery in Hume, Virginia, is also being sued by Ken Cuccinelli, Viriginia’s attorney general who is also a candidate for governor, for allegedly defrauding customers who had purchased tours at the winery.

Cuccinelli filed the lawsuit, accusing Salahi and his companies of violating the Virginia Consumer Protection Act, two months after his office reached a settlement with Salahi and his ‘Journey for the Cure Foundation’ over concerns that the non-profit organisation made false statements, submitted inaccurate financial statements, and solicited donations without proper state registration.

The Salahis have been seldom out of the spotlight since the White House dinner incident.

Michaele Salahi was a cast member of the one-season reality show Real Housewives of DC, and starred briefly in Celebrity Rehab with Dr Drew, until it became apparent she was not addicted to anything.

Last year, Salahi reported that his wife had been abducted but it turned out she had eloped with guitarist Neal Schon of rock group Journey.

Salahi later sued Michaele for US$50m, claiming her affair with the guitarist was part of a calculated attempt to make money for herself and the band at his expense.

Written by David Furer

Real estate mogul Donald Trump has bought the Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyard in Virginia for US$6.2m, according to reports.

Patricia Kluge and William J Moses. Image: Virginia Business

Kluge, former wife of John Kluge, named the richest man in America by Forbes in 1987, was forced to sell due to financial problems.

She built the 800ha Kluge estate with her husband in 1985, and took possession as part of her divorce settlement in 1990.

In 1999, she build what she hoped was going to be a ‘world-class’ winery, along with her new husband William J Moses.

She secured the services of renowned Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland and the winery – south of Charlottesville and near Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate – garnered positive, if not glowing, reviews.

Around 80ha were planted to Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and white grapes. There was an elaborate tasting room known as the Farm Shop.

Kluge’s sparkling wines, the SP Blanc de Blancs and SP Rosé, were served at Chelsea Clinton’s wedding in 2010.

By 2008 however, Kluge’s expansion plans and the recession sent the winery into difficulties.

By February this year Kluge owed Bank of America US$23m. The bank bought the estate for US$15.26m.

Donald Trump – a candidate for the Republican Party presidential nomination – has now bought the winery at auction. He intends to keep his friend Patricia Kluge and her husband on the staff to run the operation.

Trump told the Washington Post, ‘I’m really interested in good real estate, not so much in wine’, adding about Kluge, ‘She has a great instinct for wine, which I don’t.’

The wine will be rebranded in the Trump name.

Written by Adam Lechmere

Once known worldwide for its wines, Virginia lost most of its grapes during Prohibition, but quality wines are returning. HUBRECHT DUIJKER visits wine estates in this eastern US state.

Nowhere on the US east coast can so many good wines be found as in Virginia. This lush green state, famous for its horse farms, is home to a wide variety of grapes, including classic French and German varieties, plus Viognier, Tannat, Tempranillo and Norton. This American black grape was created in around 1820 by Dr Daniel Norton in Virginia. Norton wines were famous 100 years ago, and at the 1873 World Fair in Vienna a Norton was chosen as ‘the best red wine of all nations’. Prohibition, which hit Virginia 12 years before California, led the grape to disappear from Virginia.

BULLET PROOF

Two fast-running border collies accompany the four-wheeler that Jennifer McCloud briskly drives to her Norton vineyards. After Prohibition, the vine only continued to grow in Missouri, and this is where McCloud found the plants for her Chrysalis Estate, deep in Virginia’s horse country. She now has 5.7ha (hectares), more than anyone else in the eastern United States – and she intends to keep on planting. McCloud explains her enthusiasm for the thick-skinned Norton grape: ‘It’s the most disease-resistant variety in the world – it’s bullet proof.’ In Virginia, which borders Washington DC and the ocean, moisture and heat levels are high, and rain can fall at the wrong times, resulting in mildew and other fungus problems. Norton’s natural qualities are therefore very welcome indeed.

All bottled Norton at Chrysalis, the Virginia winery closest to the American capital, is sold out. As with most of the state’s 65 producers Chrysalis sells the largest part of its crop at its own premises; Virginia’s wineries collectively attract more than half a million visitors annually. Jennifer McCloud’s barrel sample of the Norton 2000 has a massive colour, a slightly smoky aroma with elements of berries and tutti-frutti, and firm acidity. In due time some Petit Verdot will be added, to give the wine a bit more length. ‘Norton,’ says Jennifer, ‘could be the saviour of Virginia agriculture. Its grapes form a high-value crop, can be treated organically – and are of course native.’

Another pioneer, of Norton and other varieties, is Dennis Horton, at his winery near the more southern town of Charlottesville. Proof of Norton’s ability to age, a 1994 was still very vital, its tart-cherry and berry fruit complemented by some toast and a certain earthy leatheriness that Horton describes as ‘barnyardy’. Wine-wise Virginia offers quite a few other surprises. One is Viognier, which thrives here. Producers like Barboursville, Breaux, Chrysalis, Horton, Ingleside Plantation and Rappahannock make it into an attractive, full, apricotty wine.

In this historically rich state, with many reminders of British colonists, and the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, Horton makes the world’s only sparkling Viognier. It is a seductive wine, full of fruit. Horton Cellars additionally carries a Viognier Late Harvest, made from grapes picked on 15 November 1999. Its rich taste is dominated by sweet apricot. Thomas Jefferson, who drafted the Declaration of Independence and became America’s third president, would have drunk it with pleasure. After his term as president, the Virginia-born politician lived in the impressive Monticello estate, near Charlottesville. A lover of sweet wines, Jefferson imported Château d’Yquem and, as his last cellar book shows, also enjoyed Madeira and Muscat de Rivesaltes. ‘Wine separates the people of the world, wine unites them,’ is one of his quotes.

In Shenandoah Valley, which lies between two low mountain ranges, the climate is somewhat cooler than in the more easterly part of the state. This makes it possible to cultivate Pinot Noir, as at Rockbridge Vineyard, a small winery halfway between Staunton and Lexington. Its Pinot Noir De Ciel 1999 combines ripe red fruit with toast and caramel, giving it a rather Burgundian personality. Other specialities of Rockbridge – which produces no less than 17 different wines – are the Traminette, which smells like roses and resembles a fresh, light Gewürztraminer, and the crisp, spicy, herbaceous Vignols. Both come from rare hybrids. A more conventional hybrid, Vidal Blanc, was barrel fermented for the St Mary’s Blanc 1999, which has vague similarities to a good dry Graves.

CHARDONNAY

During the past two decades Virginia’s wine industry has grown steadily. In 1979 the state had 116ha under vine, against almost 890ha now, and many producers are planning to further increase their production. Chrysalis, for example, made 2,000 cases in 2000, more than 5,000 in 2001, expects to reach 15,000 soon afterwards and hopes to realise an ambitious vineyard and cellar project that will bring the total to 90,000 cases within the next five years.

https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews-tastings/wine-panel-tastings/best-california-chardonnay-panel-tasting-305031/

Currently Virginia’s most important variety in volume terms is Chardonnay – this represents almost a third of total plantings. Williamsburg Winery, which controls close to a fourth of Virginia’s production, has as its flagship wine the Chardonnay Act 12 of 1619 (named after an act demanding that every landowner ‘plante and maintaine 10 vines’). This barrel-fermented, charming wine displays citrus fruit, good acidity and a nice touch of toast, and would be delicious with the region’s fresh fish and crab cakes. ‘I don’t like over-abundant flavours, but prefer wines with a good acid structure – and I believe in uniqueness,’ says the winery’s founder, Patrick Duffeler.

The Chardonnays of Piedmont Vineyards, a hilly estate near Middleburg, where Jacqueline Onassis used to ride, have earned international accolade. The Special Reserve 1998 was aged for 14 months in barrel, and its lively palate offers both tropical fruit and a fair dose of wood. The Hunt Country 1999 is softer and creamier. Of the four Chardonnays that are poured in the chalet-like tasting room of northern Linden Vineyards, the most impressive is called Avenius. It comes from a rocky vineyard, and its freshness, spiciness, citrus fruit, slight oakiness and mineral character bring it close to a premier cru or even grand cru from Chablis.

At the Oasis winery in Hume, near Marriott Ranch Bed & Breakfast, Chardonnay is being used to make an excellent sparkling wine. This Oasis Brut is released after five years’ ageing and distinguishes itself with miniscule bubbles, a soft acidity and subtle nuances of apple, pear, citrus fruit and vanilla. The wine, which also contains 40% Pinot Noir, was chosen by US magazine Wine Enthusiast as one of the world’s top sparklers, alongside well-known Champagnes. Tareq Salahi, Oasis director and co-proprietor, uses his modern-looking winery for wine-related events too, like food and wine pairings. He also founded the polo club in Warrenton, where most spectators bring well-filled hampers and a large array of Virginia wines. As Marriott’s marketing director Dan Neja smilingly explains: ‘People live here for wine and horses.’

THE TWO CABERNETS

The number one black grape in Virginia is Cabernet Sauvignon, with its close relative, Cabernet Franc, in second place. Both are used in blends and for single-varietal wines. A number of wine growers consider single Cabernet Franc as the better wine – and as one of Virginia’s foremost specialities. Its grapes ripen more quickly than Cabernet Sauvignon, which Dennis Horton has not even planted. ‘When it rains, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes soak up too much water,’ he explains. Nevertheless, several Virginia producers, like Valhalla, manage to make noteworthy Cabernet Sauvignon.

https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews-tastings/cabernet-from-around-the-world-356965/

Cabernet Franc of quality can be found at Rappahannock Cellars, which officially opened its tasting room last summer. The 2000 is loaded with black and red fruit. Barboursville, Breaux and Linden also present successful versions of this wine.

Blends with one or both Cabernets, and with or without Merlot, are quite European in style. In fact, they frequently resemble a Bordeaux. A fine example is the Merlot-Cabernet Reserve 1999 of Prince Michel de Virginia, a French-owned winery with, on its grounds, a good restaurant and luxurious suites. The wine offers soft, spicy wood, toast and black fruit, and moderate tannins. Lindens Reserve 1997, a blend of four Bordeaux varieties, shows complexity and elegance.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Apart from several Merlots, like that of the Williamsburg Winery with its black fruit, oak, bay leaf and cinnamon, many wines made from less common grapes can be tasted throughout Virginia. Barboursville’s truly superior Pinot Grigio 2000 and Piedmont’s remarkable Sémillon 1999 are good examples, or the mainly Tempranillo and Graciano Rubiano 1999 from Chrysalis, the late-harvest Nebbiolo from Horton and the same winery’s superior Madiran lookalike, Spotswood Trail Tannat. ‘Our wines,’ remarks Jennifer McCloud, ‘do not outclass those of California and are not as big, but they have an identity of their own – and go better with food.’

Hubrecht Duijker is a wine writer and author.

Written by HUBRECHT DUIJKER