When whisky meets orange wine...

The latest limited-edition release from Highland distillery Deanston, 17 Year Old Orange Wine Cask Finish (Alc 53.6%, £89.95-£95/70cl Spirited, The Whisky Exchange) is a single malt that has been matured for 15 years in ex-bourbon casks before a further two-year finish in casks previously used to make vino de naranja – a fortified wine from Andalucía made with bitter orange peel.

It’s bold and rich, with orange zest and orange oil aromas, honey, camomile and marmalade on toast, plus nuttiness and woody spice.

In the mouth, Deanston’s signature waxiness joins an intense bitter citrus character, with notes of blood orange, dried apricots, sultanas, honey, brown spice and malted milk biscuit.

Make a Colomba cocktail

From: Paper Plane, San Jose, California, USA

Words by: Vicki Denig

What is a Colomba cocktail?

This Italian twist on a summery Paloma cocktail was created by Ryan Ota, director of beverage operations for MO-Hospitality, which owns Paper Plane in downtown San Jose.

‘I’ve always loved bitter cocktails and liqueurs, and I look for any opportunity to share that preference with others,’ he says.

‘The Colomba is designed as an accessible Paloma riff; it features a full ounce of Campari but balances the bitterness with tropical passion fruit.

The name Colomba is the Italian word for dove, mirroring the meaning of the Spanish Paloma. The result is a refreshing cocktail that carries the pleasant, sharp bitterness of biting into a fresh grapefruit.’

Ota prefers to use Squirt grapefruit soda (£2.99/355ml Mexican Mama) and adds: ‘Be sure not to over-shake this cocktail; you want to leave enough room in the glass to top it off with the Squirt.’

Ingredients: What you'll need

• Glass: Highball
• Garnish: Orange twist
• 40ml blanco tequila
• 40ml Campari
• 30ml passion fruit syrup
• 30ml lemon juice
• 60ml grapefruit soda (to top)

Method

• Add all ingredients except the grapefruit soda to a shaker filled with ice and shake until your hands are cold.
• Strain into a highball glass filled with ice cubes.
• Top with soda and garnish.

Related articles

What shall we do with the drunken sailor? In the early 1800s, the answer would have been to keep him sailing to whichever far-flung destination the British Empire was attempting to expand into. One such destination was Van Diemen’s Land – now Tasmania – where a penal colony was established in 1803, marking the beginning of the long history of the Tasmanian spirits industry.

In the early days, coins were scarce and booze plentiful, leading to spirits playing an essential role in trade and payment for goods and services. Distilling was legalised in Tasmania 1822, and Australia’s first legal distillery, Sorell Distillery, was established by Thomas Haigh Midwood in Hobart. In fact, Sorell Distillery produced Tasmanian whisky a full two years before Scotland's first legal distillery, Glenlivet.

Over a dozen distilleries followed suit, but not for long. Tasmania’s whisky industry was halted in 1839 with the introduction of the Distillation Prohibition Act, introduced by Governor John Franklin. His teetotaling wife famously declared: ‘I would prefer barley be fed to pigs than it be used to turn men into swine.’

A new era

It would take another 154 years until the distilling industry was rebooted and there’s one name we have to thank for the modern Tasmanian whisky industry: Bill Lark. It was Lark’s lobbying (along with his wife, Lyn) that resulted in legislative change in 1990 to legalise small-scale craft distilling in Tasmania.

The pair launched Lark Distillery in 1992, distilling from the family home in the suburb of Kingston, just south of Hobart. ‘I grew up with the still outside my bedroom door,’ shares Kristy Lark-Booth, Jack and Lyn’s daughter, who is now owner and distiller of Killara Distillery, as well as president of the Tasmanian Whisky and Spirits Association. ‘That's where the name Killara comes from. It’s the name of the street where we lived.’

Shortly after Lark’s inception, in 1994, Tasmania Distillery was founded by Robert Hosken in Sullivans Cove, changing its name to the latter with new ownership in 1999. Patrick Maguire, a friend of Bill Lark, then purchased Sullivans Cove with several investors in 2004. It was under his management that the distillery transformed the trajectory of Tasmania’s whisky industry.

Making history

In 2014, the distillery was the first outside of Scotland and Japan to win the World’s Best Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards with its French Oak Cask expression. The distillery has since gone on to take home the title of Best Single Cask Single Malt three times: in 2018, 2019 and 2026.

The 2014 accolade inspired a swath of new producers, and the figure has continued growing. ‘Killara was about the 16th licensed distillery in 2016. So it was roughly 25 years between the first distillery and the 16th,’ says Lark-Booth. ‘And now we’ve got about 80 or so distilleries in Tasmania.’

It’s difficult to establish the exact figure in terms of whisky producers, as distilling licences don’t differentiate the type of spirit distilled. However she estimates that around 60 distillers produce whisky throughout the island state.

A sense of place

Distilleries are dotted throughout the island, all benefiting from its diverse microclimates, fresh air, pure water, and high-quality barley. Tasmania sits between 40-44° latitude south; Scotland between 55–59° degrees north.

‘There’s not much between Antarctica and us,’ says Lark-Booth. ‘We get huge pressure systems from the south, creating a perfect environment: warm days, cool evenings, but not too hot or too cold. Whisky interacts with the cask through those pressure changes,’ she adds.

‘In Scotland's stone warehouses, the temperature is very even year-round, so maturation takes much longer, also because they use larger vessels than the ones most people here use,’ she adds. This, alongside the industry’s youth, is why age statements are not the norm for Tasmanian whisky.

Quicker maturation

The Tasmanian climate and greater temperature fluctuation are responsible for another unique difference in the cask ageing process. At most Tasmanian distilleries, the angel’s share (the portion of whisky that naturally evaporates through the porous wood of the cask as the spirit ages) is at least double the amount in Scotch production, consisting of higher amounts of water evaporation versus alcohol evaporation.

‘In Scotland, casks are generally laid down at 63.5% and lose 1-2% volume annually to evaporation, primarily alcohol, as alcohol has a lower evaporation point than water. Colder, humid conditions mean whisky slowly drops in strength,’ Ashley Pryor of Sullivans Cove explains.

‘In Tasmania, warmer and drier conditions mean losses of 4-5% annually, but what evaporates is primarily water. Tasmanian whisky gets stronger in the cask, concentrating inside the barrel with the temperature fluctuating around 20 times a day, driving exacerbated interaction with the wood. In short, it matures at roughly double the pace of Scotch.’

A Tassie signature

Tasmanian whisky is spelled without an ‘e’, reflecting a style and production method closer to Scottish than American or Irish whiskey. But several hallmarks set it apart from Scotch and other global whiskies. Predominantly, you’ll find single malts, not blended expressions, and many distillers produce single cask releases.

Distillers take pride in local ingredients: locally grown and malted barley, Australian fortified casks, Tasmanian Pinot Noir casks, Tasmanian peat, and local coopers and still-makers. Tasmanian peat differs from UK peat, shaped by local botanicals such as gum trees, pepperberry and more, giving it a distinct character that carries through to the spirit.

‘The formula for Tasmanian whisky is making sure you care about each part of the process,’ shares Rob Polmear, co-founder and head distiller at Waubs Harbour. ‘Brew it yourself, using Tassie barley and water, things that make it provenance-based, but also because the barley here is great; it’s a brewer's barley meant for high flavour,’ he adds.

‘Then distilling involves using stills like Bill Lark chose in those early days. Pure copper, short-necked stills, which are hallmarks a lot of distilleries share, pushing for big, oily whiskeys,’ says Polmear. Finally there’s maturation. ‘A lot of Tasmanian whiskeys use tawny, and all three of our core lines have it. As you go up in price, you see more. That’s a hallmark of Tasmanian style.’

Tasmanian whisky: five to try

Killara KD91 ex Tawny Whisky Abbey 2025 Release – Bonnie ‘Breath of Fire’

A single cask, small-batch release, matured in a 100-litre tawny Port cask and offering up caramelised malt, Christmas cake, sea spray and salted caramel. Fruity and smooth on the palate with a creamy, spiced custard apple finish. Also available at cask strength. Alcohol 52%

Lark Fire Trail No 151

From Tasmania’s founding and largest distillery, which is now a publicly traded company. Single malt aged in Port and Sherry casks, then finished in ex-bourbon and American oak wine casks. Vanilla bean toast, orange blossom, creamed honey and subtle smokiness. A smooth, balanced, easy-drinking whisky with a generous finish. Alc 41.5%

Overeem Port Cask Matured Distiller Strength

From the fourth distillery in Tasmania, founded in 2005 by Casey Overeem and now run by his daughter Jane Overeem and her husband Mark Sawford. The Port Cask is their flagship, always a single-cask release, yet with a consistent house style. Mid-caramel toast, a lick of sea salt, white gum honey and creamed pear. Smooth and approachable. Alc 43%

Sullivans Cove TD0348 14 Year Old Single Cask American Oak Second-Fill

This single-cask, small-batch distillery placed Tasmanian whisky on the map with global accolades. The core range is centred on American oak, French oak and a double cask blend. An emerging Tassie category, second-fill casks allow the spirit to shine without the influence of a fortified predecessor. Bright citrus and orchard fruits, crème caramel, a dusting of dried sage and an impressive finish. Alc 48%

Waubs Harbour Founder’s Reserve Batch 11

A maritime distillery located in Waubs Harbour and founded in 2018 by head distiller Rob Polmear (ex-Lark and Overeem), and his brother and sister-in-law, Tim and Bec Polmer. Matured in older tawny Port casks and offering up layered spice, molasses, lamb fat umami and deep complexity. Rich and oily, a cask-strength cigar malt style. Alc 62%

Related articles

Bourbon bonanza: New US whiskey bottlings arrive on UK shores

Not one, but four new limited-edition US whiskeys have landed in the UK, courtesy of Michter’s Distillery, based in Louisville, Kentucky.

The jewel in the crown is the complex and layered Michter’s 20 Year Bourbon, matured for two decades in charred new American white oak (Alcohol 57.1%, £2,5755 / 70cl Amathus Drinks).

The younger Michter’s 10 Year Bourbon is a rich and toasty single-barrel bottling with notes of dark toffee, spice, orange oil and peanut brittle (Alc 47.2%, £195/70cl Spiritly).

They’re joined by the latest release of Michter’s 10 Year Rye, a well-balanced single-barrel bottling showing notes of vanilla toffee, roasted nuts and chocolate orange with plenty of characteristic rye spice (Alc 46.4%, £186-£199.95/70cl Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, The Whisky Shop).

Finally, Michter’s US*1 Toasted Barrel Finish Sour Mash is a limited edition of the distillery’s US*1 Sour Mash Whiskey that’s finished in a custom-made barrel that has been toasted but not charred.

The result is a deeper flavour profile with layers of toffee, cinnamon, cherry, honey and subtle bonfire smoke (Alc 43%, £129.95/70cl Master of Malt).

What to drink now

Introducing the Fandango cocktail

From: El Gallo Altanero, Guadalajara, Mexico

Words by Clinton Cawood

It’s fitting that Freddy Andreasson’s take on the classic, low-strength Bamboo includes tequila, given the location of his bar, El Gallo Altanero, in the spirit’s heartland of Guadalajara.

‘It was meant to be low proof, but it didn’t end up that way,’ he says of his Fandango Cocktail, created to epitomise elegance.

Cascahuin Reposado Tequila (£41.50/70cl The Whisky Exchange) is joined by fino Sherry – ‘Sherry and agave spirits simply work great together’ – as well as dry vermouth and a touch of agave syrup.

‘The tequila’s soft oak and cooked agave give it weight; the fino keeps it dry, sharp and almost saline; while the vermouth lays down a herbaceous backbone,’ he adds.

Visitors to the bar can choose between an olive or lemon peel garnish, for either some extra salinity or a citrus lift.

The choice, according to Andreasson, ‘depends on your mood or the kind of night you’re having – or the weather!’

How to make a Fandango cocktail

Ingredients

• 30ml Cascahuin Reposado Tequila
• 30ml Fino Sherry
• 30ml Dolin Dry Vermouth
• Small barspoon of agave syrup
• Garnish: Oliver or lemon peel

Method

• Glass: Nick & Nora
• Stir the ingredients over ice
• Strain into a chilled glass
• Add your chosen garnish

Related articles

The practice of maturing and finishing whisky in wine barrels is nothing new. From stories of tumbling Sherry casks on Leith docks in the 19th century to the commercial hit of Balvenie DoubleWood in the 1990s, its history is rich and as varied as its success.

As whisky-makers refine the delicate balance of wine-cask ageing, those in wine producing regions can work closely with local wineries to source casks. Are there benefits to this and does it represent a further surge towards embracing the concept of terroir in whisky?

Local flavour

Fewer miles covered between emptying and filling can limit environmental impact. At Starward Distillery near Melbourne, the malt is grown a one-hour drive away and as low impact an approach as possible is taken. Using local wine casks is a natural next step.

Head distiller, Carlie Dyer says: ‘We wanted to make an authentic Australian whisky and the best way to do that was to connect with our own wine industry to source casks instead of importing bourbon and Sherry casks from overseas.’

Wine cask maturation now makes up 90% of Starward’s inventory and these barrels are often reused and sold back to wineries and breweries.

Friends and family

At Winestillery, producer of Florentis whiskeys, distiller Enrico Chioccioli keeps it in the family – then shares it, very generously with the rest of us. The family winery, Chioccioli Altadonna, in Gaiole, Chianti is the distillery’s ‘in-house winemaker’ and their Super-Tuscan casks are chosen by Enrico’s oenologist brother Niccolò and their father Stefano, a consultant winemaker.

Working with family ensures trust and creates short and simple supply chains, keeping business running smoothly. Meanwhile, for its Vin Santo cask finishes, Winestillery works with a small network of local producers.

‘These are very direct, long-standing relationships: we know the vineyards, the winemaking styles and the evolution of the wines that once filled barrels. This allows us to choose not just an “ex Vin Santo wine cask” but a barrel with a precise oenological story,’ explains Enrico.

With trust comes a sense of control and with control comes relative precision in terms of flavour in what is a precarious game of balance.

Working together

Timing and balance are key considerations at Westward Whiskey in Portland, Oregon, where local Willamette Valley Pinot Noir casks are used.

Head distiller, Miles Munroe, says: ‘We work directly with winemakers and plan our fills around the time of year they’re emptying, so we can pick them up immediately. We wet-fill casks and can fill the same day they’ve been emptied of wine. That means no sulphur, no drying and no loss of flavour at all.’

Sulphur in wine casks can add off flavours to the spirit and shortening the time reduces the problem.

Community collaboration

Sourcing barrels locally can also build a sense of community amongst like-minded makers. At Thomson Distillery near Auckland, New Zealand, Rachael and Matt Thomson use wine casks from friends at Kumeu River Wines and Westbrook Winery.

‘It’s enjoyable having a broader understanding of the drinks being made here, we can all relate to one another and what we’re producing is very specific to this place,’ says Rachael.

When collaborators become friends, real connection is made and if whisky isn’t bringing joy and connection, then we should all just pack up our Glencairns and go home.

Shared values

Sharing casks can represent shared philosophies. At the organic farm and distillery Domaine des Hautes Glaces in the French Alps, founder and Master Distiller Frédéric Revol favours barrels from producers in nearby Jura who apply the same principles of minimal intervention production.

‘This is a region where there are a lot of natural winemakers and I’m looking for colleagues who are experimenting with the same stuff, with the same link with nature, the same issues; because the philosophy is the same,’ he explains.

Not only is the sulphur issue ticked off nicely here, the finished liquid represents both the place it is made and the common values of the people who make it.

National identity

Terroir certainly reigns at Rampur Distillery, located in Uttar Pradesh in the foothills of the Himalayas. Creating a whisky that is distinctly Indian is fundamental to Master Blender Anup Barik, who uses Indian Cabernet Sauvignon casks in his award-winning Asāva bottling.

‘We are a proud Indian company and were the first to use an Indian wine cask finish,’ says Barik. ‘Cabernet Sauvignon also has the right tannic phenolic character: spiced black and red fruit.’

The choice centres flavour but also reflects a sense of pride and strong links to national identity, as Ruchira Neotia, Indian whisky ambassador explains. ‘Rampur Asāva is bottled Indian pride in whisky form; a wholly nose-to-tail “Made in India” product.’

Creating character

In each of these distilleries, creating a whisky intrinsically of the place is something worked towards with intent. There is no clinging to the infallible primacy of Scottish whisky here, as Rachael Thomson says: ‘We are not replicating Scotch, but unearthing a local NZ style of whisky that draws on what is abundant in our area.’

Terroir is the land itself, the people working it and the networks fostered. Using local casks and culturing winemaker relationships strengthens these networks and helps shape a unique identity in terms of community, environment and ultimately, flavour.

Six great wine-influenced whiskies to try

Domaine des Hautes Glaces Epistémè RØØF24 Square

This 100% malted rye whisky is blended from several vintages of local rye and distilled at the organic farm distillery in the French Alps. Finished in ex-Vin Jaune casks. Bright, grassy nose with citrus peel and bruised apple on the palate and a nutty finish. Alcohol 50.6%

Florentis Super Tuscan Wine Cask

Made from Italian barley, rye and wheat, this Tuscan whisky is distilled in a pot still and hybrid copper still. Finished in SuperTuscan barrels from the Chioccoli family winery. Pronounced clove aromas with distinctive tannins and gamey notes on the palate, leading to a savoury finish. Alc 48.3%

Rampur Asāva

Indian Single Malt from the foothills of the Himalayas, finished in Indian Cabernet Sauvignon barrels. Rich blackcurrant and black plum on the nose, leading to an elegant palate and sweet pastry on the finish. Opens out nicely in a rocks glass. Alc 45%

Starward Botrytis Cask

Australian single malt made with local grain from the state of Victoria and fully matured in botrytis Semillon dessert wine casks before bottling. Luxurious mouth-coating texture with sweet dried apricots, gentle spice and white chocolate on the finish. Alc 48%

The Heart Cut #19 Thomson

This New Zealand single malt is finished in Pinot Noir casks from Westbrook Winery and bottled by award-winning UK independent bottler, The Heart Cut. Cranberries and Christmas spice on the nose, with a silky texture and hints of cocoa on the palate. Alc 51.5%

Westward Pinot Noir Cask

An American single malt distilled in Oregon and finished in Willamette Valley Pinot Noir barrels for two years. Offering stone fruit and red cherries at the top, evolving into darker fruits with lingering warm earthy notes. Alc 45%

Related articles

Redbreast’s latest release in its Iberian Series is the Moscatel Wine Cask Edition. It’s the most recent in a long list of Irish pot-still whiskeys finished in a sweet, fortified-wine cask. And it’s not just pot-still. In 2025, Jameson blended whiskey released its Triple Triple Marsala Cask Edition, and Bushmills replaced its 10 Year Old malt with a Marsala-finished 12 Year Old, so that its entire single-malt range is now sweet fortified-finished.

Far more than Scotch, which tends to stick to Sherry, Irish whiskey in its various forms has been finished with success in an array of fortified wine casks. Why the affinity?

A little bit of history repeating

Dave McCabe, Irish Distillers’ Master Blender, responsible for Redbreast, says: ‘Our master cooper, Ger Buckley, told me that bourbon casks didn‘t arrive at our Midleton distillery until the 1960s – before that it was all Sherry and other wine casks.‘

In the 1800s, there was a lot of sea trade between Ireland and the Mediterranean. Whiskey bonders (who bought new-make spirits from distilleries, aged them and blended them) were wine merchants too, so it was logical what they would use. And fortified wine was best suited for ship transport.

Michael Cowman, co-founder of independent bottler Redacted, points to older connections. ‘There’s a straight line from northern Spain to the west coast of Ireland. It’s been a smuggling route, a fishing ground for Spanish ships. And there are the Catholic alliances – a lot of Spanish settled on the west coast after the Armada was wrecked off the coast.’

McCabe says: ‘You can take it even further back, with the Irish involved in setting up monasteries around Europe, where they produced wines.’

That explains the tradition. But why does it work so well?

The right spirit

Pot-still whiskey, claims McCabe, is ideal for a dessert- or fortified-wine finish. ‘The inclusion of unmalted barley adds a mouth-coating, creamy texture. When you age that in a PX or Moscatel wine cask, which has a sugar content of between 200g/L and 400g/L, I think there’s a level of decadence. When it comes to dessert wines in Spain, they mightn’t even drink them – they’ll pour it over ice cream as a syrup.’

Irish single malt does not have the Robinson’s Barley Water element of pot still at the raw spirit stage, as Bushmills brand ambassador Janice Snowden points out, but that doesn’t seem to be a hurdle. ‘The 12 Year Old Marsala finish has texture but the tears on the glass are from the finish... We’re not about making a really gooey new-make spirit – it’s more medium-bodied than oily.’

Arguably one of the most contentious finishes in Scotch is Port (particularly ruby Port), which can taste like someone spilt blackcurrant jam in the bottle. But the Ribena note on Port-finished Irish single malt is not as jarring.

‘Even before I worked for Bushmills,’ says Snowden, ‘the 16 Year Old was my favourite Irish whiskey. And I have yet to find a Scotch whisky with a Port-cask finish that comes close to it. It’s not overwhelming; it just complements the spirit character – especially those red and green apple notes of the new-make.’

Make it a triple

What Irish single malt and pot still share is triple distillation. Alex Huskinson, WSET Educator for The Whisky Exchange explains: ‘Triple distillation in Irish whiskey isn‘t the same as for vodka – they’re not aiming for a neutral spirit. But it does result in a brighter, more fruity spirit.’

He adds: ‘If it’s a single malt, it concentrates the malt character... nuts, honey, citrus. For pot still, the unmalted barley will give you green notes and fresh spice. Triple distillation hones in on flavours which will be enhanced by sweet wine influence.’

Some Scotch malts will work with these wines, but often whiskies that are umami-rich or smoky, for example, clash instead.

Cowman, who bottled a Sauternes-finished Dingle whiskey in 2023 adds: ‘I think triple distillation gives you a really good canvas to paint on, as long as you select really good casks to finish in.’

Quality casks

And that is key. Like all matters in wine and spirits, the modern level of detail, sophistication and quality control is a world away from 19th-century traditions of trading casks at the quayside.

‘If we just bought old casks a bodega was trying to offload, we would get all the sweetness from the wine, but without that nicely balanced tannin from the oak,’ says McCabe. ‘That‘s why we work directly with bodegas to produce bespoke casks seasoned with the fortified wine.’

For Redbreast‘s Moscatel edition, he worked with Bodegas Quitapenas in Málaga, which took toasted European oak hogsheads and seasoned them for two years with a wine chosen from a selection of 30, before they were shipped to the distillery in Cork.

Variety is the spice

The sheer range of different fortified and naturally sweet wines – even from individual winemakers – is exciting for whiskey makers. Both Snowden and McCabe get animated when talking about the estufagem heating process in Madeira (leaning towards stewed apricots) or Marsala‘s addition of mosto cotto (cooked grape must, giving whiskey extra nuttiness and tobacco).

Cowman is a champion of the less global Irish whiskey makers. He has tasted limited editions finished in Vin Santo, ice wine and Rivesaltes casks. At the moment, he is searching for a good Hungarian Tokaji cask to finish a whiskey in. ‘There are lots of possibilities if people are prepared to push the envelope on what’s possible,’ he concludes.

Six sweet fortified-wine cask Irish whiskeys to try

Boann Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Madeira Cask

Boann distillery in Meath is an envelope-pusher extraordinaire. Its core pot-still range is all fortified-wine-aged (Madeira, PX and Marsala) and it’s tough to choose the best. Justino’s Madeira Wines has supplied casks from various vintages and colheitas, as well as the different Madeira styles – including boal and sercial – for an exquisite balance of peaches and cream, floral aromas, walnuts and fruit cake. Alcohol 47%

Bushmills 12 Year Old Single Malt

With only a six-month finish in Marsala casks, you might expect the first 12 years in oloroso and bourbon to have more influence here. But the fresh apple notes are caramelised, there are candied nuts, honey and spices... It’s a remarkable step up from the old 10 Year Old. Alc 40%

Jameson Triple Triple Marsala Cask Edition

Jameson is a blended whiskey, combining pot still and grain whiskey – the latter is also a good canvas for flavour. The triples refer to the distillation of course, and three woods: bourbon, Sherry and American oak seasoned with Marsala from Cantine Florio in Sicily. It gives an exotic twist to the original Jameson, with banana, kiwi and ginger notes. The Marsala Cask Edition is exclusive to travel retail. Alc 40%

Redbreast Moscatel Wine Cask Edition

For this non-age-statement whiskey (believed to be at least nine years old), Master Blender Dave McCabe took liquids aged in ex-American whiskey and ex-oloroso casks and finished them for a chunky 16 months in Moscatel casks. It takes you on a citrus journey, with lime juice and bitter orange peel, plus creamy vanilla fudge and floral honey, with some pepper and allspice. Alc 46%

Red Spot 1991

Normally, Master Blender Dave McCabe would blend casks to balance distillery character, wood influence and the wine finish. But this rare single Marsala cask was all perfectly balanced and matured for 31 years, rich and fresh in equal measure. Expect apricots and peaches, tobacco and cocoa, prunes and raisins, with a scattering of herbs and spices. Exclusive to The Whisky Exchange. Alc 55.9%

Two Stacks 9 Year Old Single Pot Still Cab Franc Ice Wine Finish

Two Stacks is one of the new era of Irish whiskey bonders, a movement revived by JJ Corry a decade ago. For this release, they gave a pot-still whiskey (understood to be from Great Northern Distillery) a long, 18-month rest in barrels that previously held Cabernet Franc ice wine from Canada. Name a red berry or plum variety and it’s in here, but with great tannic structure and wood notes to avoid excessive jamminess. Alc 54%

Related articles

Whisky meets wine

The Dalmore has unveiled the third instalment of its Cask Curation Series: The Red Wine Cask Edition (£36,100 The Whisky Exchange, The Whisky Shop).

The set of three whiskies has been created in partnership with winemaker Pierre Fabre of Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Each set consists of a 24 Year Old, 34 Year Old and 43 Year Old signature Dalmore single malt, all finished in casks previously used to age the 2023 vintage of Mont-Redon’s flagship wine, a Grenache-dominant blend that also includes Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Vaccarèse.

‘The layers of flavour from the complex grape blends held inside these Châteauneuf-du-Pape casks have been instrumental in the development of these three unique single malts, which have such richness and complexity,’ explained Richard Paterson OBE, Master Distiller of The Dalmore.

‘Red wine casks have played an integral role in shaping The Dalmore’s success, so it felt fitting to release some very rare expressions, as part of the Cask Curation Series,’ he added.

The three whiskies are presented in a bespoke lapis blue carry case made by Italian luggage maker AB Florence. Only 150 sets have been produced. This new release follows the Sherry Edition, launched in 2023 in collaboration with González Byass, and the Port Edition, produced with Graham’s.

Drink Dictionary: Trub (Noun / ‘trüb / ‘trəb)

In distilling, the leftover solids at the bottom of a fermenter, from which the alcoholic liquid is separated, in order to give a cleaner spirit.

What to drink now: Aquaponie

Little Red Door, Paris, France

Agri/Culture is the latest cocktail menu at Parisian cocktail bar Little Red Door, inspired by the agricultural methods that are helping to shape a sustainable future, from permaculture and aquaponics to agroforestry.

Aquaponie was created by Hyacinthe Lescoët and celebrates aquaponics, a food-production system that combines aquaculture (raising fish) with hydroponics (growing plants without soil) to create a symbiotic, closed-circulation ecosystem.

‘Aquaponie is a Gimlet-style cocktail with a sweet-and- sour structure, but the real deal is the glass and the garnish,’ he says. ‘The beautiful two-part glassware shows the relation between what happens under the water with the fish and the plant that grows from it. On top is a green tea and basil foam to showcase the relation between water and air.’

At home you can use a Martini glass and basil leaf garnish. To make your own basil cordial, mix 1.14L of water with 450g sugar and 18ml citric acid, stir well to dissolve the sugar. Add 150g basil, 150g Thai basil, and leave to infuse in the fridge for 48 hours. Strain and store in the fridge. Alternatively, use Monin basil syrup (£7.25-£10.99/70cl Widely available) and omit the St-Germain.

Ingredients: 25ml Grey Goose Vodka, 25ml Dolin Dry Vermouth, 5ml St-Germain elderflower liqueur, 25ml basil cordial

Glass: Martini

Garnish: Basil leaf

Method: Put all of the ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir well to mix. Strain into a chilled Martini glass.

Related articles

• Distilled: The launch of a Golden Ratio-inspired gin
• Distilled: Two new expressions from Mount Gay
• Distilled: The release of two new whisky books

‘Freedom an’ whisky gang thegither / Tak aff your dram!’

Robert Burns is Scotland’s national bard, known the world over, centuries after his death, as a passionate ambassador of Scottish culture. And he loved writing about – and drinking – whisky.

Scotch is a golden thread running through Burns’ writing. It is mentioned in political poems – such as The Author’s Earnest Cry and Prayer, which is quoted above – as well as lighter celebrations of the joys of ‘John Barleycorn’ (his personification of whisky).

Burns died in 1796, but his name lives on thanks to Burns Night, the annual celebration held on 25 January, his birthday. What began as a low-key gathering of a few friends has mushroomed into a global extravaganza of bagpipes, haggis and – of course – whisky.

Choosing the ‘right’ dram for Burns Night depends on personal taste and purpose. If you’re looking for an accompaniment to haggis, neeps and tatties, you might want something powerful enough to stand up to all those rich flavours.

But Robert Burns was nothing if not a champion of free thinking – so the rules are definitely there to be broken. This selection of single malts and blends below will give you some inspiration, with drams to delight fans of Sherry, bourbon and rum cask finishes.

Best Scotch whiskies for Burns Night

Auchentoshan 12 Year Old Double Cask

Famed for its unusual use (in Scotland) of triple distillation, Auchentoshan offers a no-jagged-edges smoothness, here enhanced by influence from ex-bourbon and ex-Sherry casks. Aromas of Sugar Puffs and butterscotch usher in a silky palate with zesty citrus and some appealing hazelnut tones, plus a twist of cocoa powder and coffee roaster. A minor quibble about the bottling strength: 46% would surely offer more heft and breadth. Alcohol 40%

Berry Bros & Rudd Speyside Traditional Cask 16 Year Old

Part of Berrys’ Classic range thanks to its embodiment of the Speyside style, which means layers of fruit – poached pear and more exotic scents of dried apricot – alongside flavours of hazelnut, honey and biscuity cereal. Some earthy, tangy back notes suggest a greater age than 16 years, wedding complexity with balance and making for a pretty faultless single malt. Alc 48.2%

Blair Athol 2007 16 Year Old The Seasons: Winter

This seasonal exclusive from The Whisky Exchange is the archetypical winter’s dram, marrying Blair Athol’s gutsy, leather-and-funk distillate with full-term maturation in an ex-oloroso Sherry cask. Opulence personified, offering stem ginger encased in dark chocolate, cinder toffee and the contents of a well-stocked spice rack, all wrapped up in a textural liquid that coats the mouth and carries the flavours. Alc 55.1%

Ben Nevis 2019 6 Year Old – Caoineag The Weeping Spirit

It’s not exactly a cheery back-story: inspired by the Caoineag, an ancient weeping spirit from Scottish folklore that anticipates tragedy, death and disaster. But look on the bright side and savour this youthful example of the trademark Ben Nevis powerful funk and immense structure, encompassing everything from coal smoke to fresh-turned earth, charred lemon and raspberries in dark chocolate. Alc 55%

Cutty Sark Blended Scotch Whisky

Cutty Sark led a new wave of Scotch whiskies when it was launched in 1923, pitched to appeal to the American appetite for lighter drams. Cutty also has an indirect link to Burns – named after the tea clipper that recalled the revealing garb of witch Nannie Dee in the bard’s Tam O’Shanter poem. As for the whisky, its light, smooth, undemanding character makes it the perfect base for a pre-Burns supper highball. Alc 40%

Glen Garioch 12 Year Old

One of Scotland’s oldest distilleries has recently had a £6m revamp aimed at reviving traditional production methods. This benchmark 12yo release shows bags of character even before the changes were made, partly thanks to its relatively high bottling strength: dark honey, wisps of heather smoke, caramelised apple and lots of baking spices. The owners reckon it’s a great match for cheese – Parmigiano Reggiano specifically – and you can see why. Alc 48%

Glen Scotia 2014 10 Year Old

Another Whisky Exchange exclusive and, in today’s whisky market, a great value Campbeltown malt – but with a twist, playing up the peat to bring billowing clouds of scented smoke. Nonetheless, the lighter side of Scotia stands up to the buffeting: hedgerow aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine, before a slightly vegetal tang emerges. The first-fill ex-bourbon wood brings an edge of spice and some smoky hints of its own. Alc 55.9%

Glenfiddich Gran Reserva 21 Year Old

Cask finishing is as much art as science, teasing out oak influence without sacrificing distiller character. Time in ex-rum wood here brings unmistakable notes of black banana and a basket of tropical fruit – but the classic ‘fiddich flavours of baked apple and gentle spice remain intact. Age also builds breadth, texture and tertiary flavours of raisin, dark honey and light treacle. Alc 40%

Highland Park Cask Strength Heather

Highland Park hits its perfect pitch at about 18 years old, when fragrant Orcadian peat, distillery character and cask influence become aligned – but this more youthful new release is a fascinating exercise in dialling up the smoke and the alcohol to 11, bottled at cask strength to accentuate billowing bonfire aromas, alongside oak-derived spices and vanilla sweetness, all carried on a silky, almost oily, palate. Alc 63.6%

Torabhaig Sound of Sleat Batch Strength

This terrific release from Torabhaig takes its name from the strip of water separating the southeast of the Isle of Skye from the mainland. There’s more than a hint of maritime reek in its seaweed-accented peat smoke, counteracted by smooth vanilla and honey from maturation in American oak. A touch of salinity on the finish brings us back to the ocean. Alc 60.2%

Related articles

• Thanks a loch: The independent Scotch bottlers are coming
• Gordon & MacPhail announces release of world’s oldest single malt Scotch
• Hebridean whisky: A new wave to discover

Whisky requires patience. For Scotch, it takes three years and a day before the liquid in the cask can legally be called whisky; in practice, most distillers wait far longer before they’re happy for you to try it.

But just because whisky is a long-term business, that doesn’t make it immune to shifting trends, or incapable of responding to them. At a time when many prioritise paying the bills over what might appear to be a frivolous indulgence, it’s encouraging to see that you can still pick up a 21-year-old Irish whiskey for south of £100.

Then again, age is merely a number – and you don’t have to go deep into double figures to find quality. Young whiskies offer not only value for money, but an energising exuberance that, when well executed, is difficult to resist.

If it’s easy to be drawn in by age statements, the same can be said of distillery names. There’s comfort in familiarity, but don’t forget the thrill of the new – the discovery of a name that’s hardly ever seen. Independent bottlers are the go-to here, but not just for rare finds – they can also offer a fresh take on a malt that you thought you knew, confounding preconceptions.

Some trends are perennial. Call it extra maturation, call it ‘finishing’, but the fine art of transferring a whisky into a fresh cask to inject exciting new flavours is almost as old as whisky itself. But today the finishes – from tequila to Pineau des Charentes (an aperitif from western France) – are funkier and more fun than ever.

That combination of spirit and cask tells a story in its own right – not a dry tale of filling strengths, cut points and second-fill versus first-fill (unless that’s your thing) – but the sensory journey of flavour you embark upon every time you pour a glass.

Then again, maybe you’re drawn in by the whisky’s back-story – the concept of ‘whisky terroir’, its roots in sustainable farming or heritage grains – or the curiosity of discovering some of whisky’s newer origins, such as England, Denmark, Germany and beyond.

Or perhaps the impulse to buy is a seasonal one: the desire to track down a thoughtful gift for a favourite relative or friend – or simply a wish to treat yourself to a festive, Sherried dram to ward off the winter chill.

There are a million reasons to enjoy whisky – and almost as many whiskies out there to enjoy. Here are 10 favourites that will be on my wish list this Christmas…

Annandale Man O’Words 2018 Ex-Fino Sherry Butt Cask #396

Scotland

For those who find richly Sherried whiskies a tad overblown. Maturation in an ex-fino cask brings roasted hazelnut, almond and walnut to Annandale’s lovely orchard fruit distillate. Dilute judiciously. Alcohol 61.1%

Berry Bros & Rudd Inchgower 2009 Pineau des Charentes Finish

Scotland 

Quirky Inchgower is an old favourite, but rarely seen. Here a Pineau des Charentes cask adds floral, vinous accents to the distillate’s saline, herbal character, all rounded out by a sweetly fruity mid-palate with plenty of citrus zest. Alc 55.5%

Fielden Hazybower Rye Whisky

England

Heritage grains (mainly rye, plus wheat and barley) and maturation in used American oak and ex-Tokaji wood makes for a pretty, floral rye – jasmine, honeysuckle, then honeyed cereal notes and just a little peppery grunt. Alc 46.3%

Glen Moray Tequila Cask Finish 2014

Scotland

Glen Moray’s supple, fruity distillate is the ideal canvas for cask finishes, and this addition to the experimental Warehouse 1 collection layers on herbal, savoury tones from spending a couple of years in ex-tequila oak. Alc 55.2%

Glenmorangie A Tale of Spices

Scotland

The latest flavour odyssey from Glenmorangie maestro Dr Bill Lumsden, inspired by the world’s spice markets – but plenty of the distillery’s more ethereal notes have survived alongside sweet-accented ginger, nutmeg and star anise. Alc 46%

Laphroaig 18 Year Old

Scotland

A well-mannered Laphroaig. After 18 years in ex-bourbon cask, it marries tobacco leaf, honey and salted caramel to the familiar feral smoke. The seasonal gift pack comes with a dry bag for festive hikes. Alc 48%

Living Souls Torabhaig 7 Year Old

Scotland 

A new independent bottler meets a new-ish distillery. If you’re a fan of Torabhaig’s fierce peat, this is another gem, ex-bourbon cask-matured and offering whistle-clean flavours of beach barbecue, grilled pineapple and black pepper. Alc 51.5%

Meikle Tòir The Original

Scotland

Glenallachie’s peated alter ego, just five years old, matured in ex-Bourbon, ex-rye and virgin American oak. That means dialled-up charred pear, black pepper and a distinctively earthy, smoky profile. Alc 50%

Stauning Rye

Denmark

After a tough year in which Stauning lost its main investor, it’s great to see this modern classic fighting back with a slick new bottle design. Inside, it’s the same winning mix of plump cherry and damson, oak spice and deep, dark rye depths. Alc 48%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company 21 Year Old Irish Whiskey

Ireland

Adorned with a ‘lovely horse’ on the label (one for Father Ted fans), this is about as good-value as 21-year-old whisky gets. Classic cereal tones alongside honeyed almonds, a whisper of coconut and a pinch of baking spice. Alc 45.8%

Related articles

• Irish whiskey: What’s next for the new wave?
• Move over Scotch, it’s time to discover Western US whiskey
• Isla Marambio: The first whisky ever aged in Antarctica to launch next year

The Irish whiskey revival continues apace. For most of the last century, distillation on the island fell to just two distilleries – set at opposite ends of the map. First Bushmills, on the north Antrim coast, the world’s oldest licensed distillery, dating to 1608, and second Midleton, in the far south’s County Cork, both producing the island’s most established whiskey brands.

The two have weathered their fair share of storms – political upheaval, economic collapse and the ever-shifting tides of whiskey trends. Now, in little more than a decade, over 40 new distilleries have filled the space between them. This new generation of distillers is bringing new energy, new ways of doing things, new attitudes and new opinions.

Ups and downs

It may not all be smooth sailing ahead. Born of the boom, this new wave has arrived at a time when interest in Irish whiskey is growing, yet harbingers of doom remind us that whisky sales overall are facing decline.

Distilleries have been mothballed across the industry – Scotland and the US have seen casualties – in Ireland, the closures of Waterford, The Dublin Liberties and Killarney Brewing & Distilling Co have cast a shadow of apprehension across this nascent revival.

And yet, spirited and undeterred, makers are moving forward, charting their own path, often looking to the past as a north star.

The shape of the new wave

New distilleries are now scattered the length of the country, adding breadth as well as depth of style.

To the island’s north-east, County Down has become something of a distilling hotspot. Within a short drive lie Echlinville, Hinch, Rademon Estate and Killowen. This crop of distilleries has reshaped the region in just over a decade.

Further up the north coast, Ireland’s first whiskey hotel, The Harbourview, in Carnlough, stocks more than 200 whiskeys from across the island – a measure of the momentum behind the revival.

Flavour-led

As seen in the early flashes of the Irish whiskey revival, distillers are reviving the traditional style – bold, characterful whiskey with depth and texture, once nearly lost but now firmly reclaimed. A growing reverence for the ‘old Irish’ pot still continues. But it’s joined now by distillers moving beyond the triple distillation long tied to Irish whiskey, favouring flavour-led double distillation, longer fermentations and a renewed appreciation of peat.

At Rademon Estate, David and Fiona Boyd-Armstrong run what they understand to be the island’s longest fermentations – 160 to 180 hours. ‘We’re all about that flavour, that funk,’ says David. They also marry single pot still and single malt in an old recipe dubbed a ‘Champagne blend’, with both styles produced and combined at the single-estate distillery. The malt brings smoothness; pot still adds texture and spice.

Just a wee drive across the fields, Hinch is reclaiming smoke. ‘Pre-industrial Irish whiskey was as robust and peaty as Scotch,’ explains brand ambassador, Terry McCartan. ‘It’s only in the last 150 years that people got the idea Irish should be light.’ Hinch’s modern releases are elegant examples – wisps of bonfire and barbecue smoke rather than the punch of their predecessors.

Heritage mash bills

Perhaps the most outspoken movement is happening in the mash tun. A band of merry non-conformists are reviving the mixed mash bills of 19th-century Ireland. That was a time when distillers used whatever the land gave them: barley, oats, wheat and rye.

Later, standardisation and GI laws narrowed the definition of what Irish whiskey could be. Today, some are pushing back, reclaiming those old recipes and, when necessary, bottling proudly ‘non-compliant’ liquid that falls outside the rule book. It’s an impassioned rebellion – less about defying regulation than about restoring authenticity.

Rebels with a cause

At Blackwater in County Waterford, founder and CEO Peter Mulryan produces double-distilled modern riffs on historic recipes. ‘These are back-of-the-envelope mash bills,’ he says, pointing to a board hand-scrawled with various grain combinations. ‘Brewers back in the day weren’t as up on note-taking as we are.’ Mulryan calls his work ‘a manifesto of intent – reclaiming our stolen heritage’.

Further north in Drogheda, Boann delivers the same rebellious spirit from a gleaming distillery of cutting-edge equipment. Some 50 different mash bills are explored here, including unmalted barley coming straight off the surrounding fields.

Guided by historian Fionnán O’Connor, the Cooney family is recreating archival mash recipes, with a particular focus. ‘Oats were once everywhere in Irish whiskey,’ says Patrick Cooney. ‘It’s a shame they’ve been written out of history.’ 

Like Blackwater, Boann’s occasional non-compliant releases are both a stand against modern GI limits and a celebration of Ireland’s grain diversity.

Sense of place

Unsurprising in a land so green and fertile, Ireland’s renewed fascination with heritage grain has brought a rise in farm distilleries and a return to whiskey’s agricultural roots. Echlinville, a single-estate distillery near the shores of Strangford Lough, sows, grows, harvests, malts and mashes barley on site – then ferments, distils, matures, blends and bottles it too. The team is also reviving the historic Ards Malt House and restoring the heritage brand Dunville’s, emphasising further local pride.

Just along the coast, Killowen distils the character of the Mourne Mountains and the Irish Sea through open-top fermenters, allowing wild yeasts to impart local flavour. Flame-fed copper pot stills and worm-tub condensers continue the old ways – reviving forgotten styles of native distilling, as they put it.

Killowen’s sourced releases show Irish whiskey’s creative freedom: spirit here may be aged in any wood, not just oak. Across the country, producers are experimenting with cherry, chestnut, acacia and mizunara, alongside finishes in Cognac, Armagnac and rum casks, adding new layers to the Irish whiskey language.

What’s next?

The new Irish whiskey is diverse, breaking free from the single style that defined the past half century. For now, the ‘new Irish’ identity remains fragmented, but over time we can expect regional styles to emerge – reviving, reclaiming and refining what it means to be Irish whiskey. The question is whether we have time.

If Irish whiskey has learned anything from its history, it’s resilience. There’s a hardy ‘ach sure’ optimism that keeps the ship sailing – and a sense that, whatever the weather, they’ll enjoy the journey and fight the tide with spirit.

New wave Irish whiskey: six to try

Boann 2021 4 Year Old Oloroso Cask

Irish single pot still whiskey built on a 19th-century mash bill of malted and unmalted barley with oats. Matured in an oloroso Sherry hogshead, it’s rich yet vibrant – orange zest and sultanas meet milk chocolate, burnt sugar and warm nutmeg and ginger baking spice. Exclusive to The Whisky Exchange. Alc 52%

Dirtgrain Irish Whiskey The Manifesto Release

The Manifesto Release of four Dirtgrain whiskeys is a statement of intent from County Waterford’s most rebellious distillery: Blackwater. Four historic mash bills – from 1838, 1893, 1908 and 1915 – have been recreated using Irish-grown grain and double distillation. Each offers a glimpse into lost styles: creamy oats, peppery rye and bright malt. Alc 43-47%

Dunville’s Three Crowns Peated Irish Whiskey

A revival of Belfast legend Dunville’s by Echlinville, Northern Ireland’s first new distillery in over a century. A blend of aged malt and grain whiskeys with subtle smoke, offering toffee, oak spice and a warm finish. Alc 43.5%

Hinch Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Matured in ex-bourbon, Madeira and oloroso casks, this County Down single malt brings a modern touch to traditional Irish smoke. Pineapple and dark chocolate lead into toffee apple, honey and heather. Alc 43%

Killowen Rum & Raisin

A sourced single malt finished in Killowen’s dark rum and PX Sherry casks. Vanilla cream meets treacle sponge, prunes, raisins and lingering spice. Alc 55%

Shortcross Distiller’s Duo

A blend of two styles of whiskey produced by Rademon Estate Distillery: single pot still and single malt produced entirely on a single estate. The malt brings milk chocolate and baked apple and pear; the pot still adds spice and tobacco. Alc 46%

Related articles

• Thanks a loch: The independent Scotch bottlers are coming
• The age of age: Hyper-aged whiskies make their mark
• Move over Scotch, it’s time to discover Western US whiskey

Books for whisky lovers

Two new books will lure you deeper into the world of whisky – whether you’re a novice or a devoted fan. For beginners, Kristiane Westray’s Savour (£12.99 Bloomsbury Publishing) is billed as a guide to tasting and exploring whiskies of the world.

Prefaced with short sections on how whisky is made and how to taste, plus useful tips on identifying your own taste preferences, the book takes readers on an easily digestible tour of global whisky styles, highlighting top distilleries and bottles to try.

Meanwhile, whisky geeks will enjoy settling down with a favourite dram and a copy of The Whiskey Bible by Noah Rothbaum (£35 Workman Publishing).

Beginning with a Whiskey 101, Rothbaum dives into American, Scotch, Irish, Canadian and Japanese styles with relish, in an engaging, full-colour tome packed with insights and anecdotes. A lively read to devour as the nights draw in.

Spirited words: ‘Drink because you are happy, but never because you are miserable’ – GK Chesterton, Heretics

What to drink now… Smoked Cherry

The American Bar, Gleneagles, UK

‘We set out to create a Paloma-style cocktail that was both light and approachable,’ says Emilio Giovanazzi, head bartender at The American Bar at the luxury Gleneagles hotel in Perthshire, Scotland.

‘In our prep, we use large jars of cherries, which we strain from their syrup before service. The syrup, rich with concentrated flavour, felt too good to waste – arguably just as delicious as the cherries themselves.’

He explains: ‘We paired the syrup with a touch of Maraschino liqueur, not only to introduce a subtle bitterness, but also to amplify the cherry aroma and complement the smoky character of the mezcal. Sparkling mate adds a herbaceous lift and a gentle fizz, bringing the whole drink into balance.’

The cocktail is served in a bespoke, hand-painted glass inspired by the glint of sunlight on ripe cherries, but a standard highball glass will work perfectly if you’re making this drink at home.

Ingredients: 45ml Casamigos Mezcal Joven, 10ml Maraschino liqueur, 15ml leftover cherry syrup, 60ml ChariTea Sparkling Mate

Glass: Highball

Garnish: None

Method: Collect the leftover syrup from a jar of Maraschino cherries and add to a highball glass. Add the mezcal and Maraschino and mix gently to incorporate the syrup. Add ice and top up with the sparkling mate.

Related articles

• Distilled: Newly arrived in the UK, Casals Mediterranean Vermouth
• Distilled: Appleton Estate launches its longest-aged expression to date
• Distilled: Hot off the press – Tequila: A tasting course

In the wake of the official American single malt category recognition, a question begs some consideration. If there is now a definitive American style of whiskey, could there also be western-style?

The ‘spirit of the west’ is a concept thrown around, indicating pioneering determination, conjuring images of cowboys on horses and gritty landscapes. But in our modern day, do the western states embody a certain experimental style in whiskey making? Here are five distilleries making the case that they sure do.

Wyoming

The first legal distillery in the state, Wyoming Whiskey embodies this western spirit. ‘The west is what defines it,’ says co-founder David DeFazio. ‘And by “west” I mean western-grown grains, natural yeasts that inevitably find their way into fermentation, and the maturation of barrels in rickhouses surrounded by sage and other rangeland grasses that aren’t found in other regions of the country.’

Distilled, aged and bottled in Kirby, WY (population: 76), the whiskeys are made using limestone water pulled from a nearby aquifer, plus local non-GMO grains. Ageing occurs at the distillery’s high-elevation rickhouse, where the extreme temperatures create more flavour in the barrel.

Colorado

Spirit Hound Distillers, based in the high-altitude town of Lyons, is named to embody the characteristics of a tenacious hound dog on the trail. Master Distiller and founder, Craig Engelhorn, started Spirit Hound in 2012 with a still he built himself, crafting award-winning American single malt whiskey. From the beginning he used 100% Colorado-grown malted barley.

Engelhorn boasts evidence that Colorado has a very special ageing environment and great water. ‘In the right environment, a whiskey doesn’t have to have a huge amount of age on it to be superb,’ he explains. ‘We are using St Vrain water… All of our spirits have a soft, sweet finish, and I attribute that to the flavour of the water.

These factors are part of the reason why Engelhorn believes there is a western-style of whiskey. In fact, he’s working on a map project, to indicate the styles and geographical boundaries within regional whiskeys around the US.

‘The east coast and west have different characteristics, and I think we can categorise those from each area,’ he says. He would also like to do a distillery barrel swap to test what different malts taste like in different environments.

Utah

With the word west in its name, High West Distillery in Park City is a prime example of a western-style producer. ‘Both our whiskey-making and our brand are inseparable from the west,’ confirms director of distilling, Isaac Winter. ‘We distil at nearly 2,135m in the mountains behind Park City and that elevation gives us a brighter, more floral new-make spirit – and helps shape how our whiskey matures.’

The distillery was founded in 2006 by Jane and David Perkins, opening with a 250-gallon (946-litre) still in a historic stable and garage. A main focus for the distillery is its blending philosophy, which ‘reflects a frontier mindset’ according to Winters.

‘We respect the classic profiles that define American whiskey, like rye spice balancing corn sweetness. But we’re not afraid to push further, layering pot and column still distillates to create blends with real depth and personality,’ he explains.

Oregon

In the middle of a sea of vineyards in the Willamette Valley in Oregon is Killdeer Distilling. Part of the Wine Country Whiskey Trail, this micro-distillery is a family-run business on a 2.8ha home farm. Drawing from a DIY heritage that the west was built on, Colin Fisher and his wife Kate Coulter started Killdeer 10 years ago. They built out the facilities and production space on their property by hand – along with raising two kids and farm animals.

Reflecting on a ‘western-style’, Fisher says: ‘The Old West was a time of bartering, lending a helping hand and sharing with your neighbours and family. Killdeer embodies that spirit every day – and our philosophy for making whiskey is similar to our everyday life.’

All Killdeer whiskies are made on the farm, each release showcasing the individuality of each. ‘Unlike commercial whiskeys that strive for a taste continuum, our whiskeys are single-barrel, and each barrel has a story to tell,’ explains Fisher.

‘Much like wine vintages, no two barrels are alike. Most importantly to us, we never chill-filter our whiskeys. This lack of refinement allows for full expression, leading to, in our humble opinion, a bolder, more full-bodied whiskey,’ he adds.

Fisher uses traditional charred new American white oak barrels, but also hand-chars select barrels using cherry and apple wood grown on the property. Fisher also experiments with some heritage flavours like ancient Khorasan wheat.

California

With images of dusty Gold Country in mind, it’s easy to forget that the ocean is a giant part of the west. Venus Spirits, located less than 1.6km from the crashing waves in Santa Cruz, was launched in 2013 by Sean Venus.

For him, the influence of the sea is a big part of what defines his whiskey. ‘All the whiskey has aged super close to the ocean. Sunlight heats up the building, ocean air cools it down. People say there’s an overarching salinity in our spirits,’ Venus says.

The use of local ingredients helps to make his Wayward Whiskey line ‘western’ in character according to Venus. ‘We are lucky to have all of those readily available here in California. Our rye is grown as a cover crop for organic farms here in the winter. And organic corn is a staple.’

He also emphasises that flavour of place is an expression of the barrel. ‘Every barrel is different. You can have two barrels with the same liquid going in, but two very different products coming out. We celebrate those differences… It’s more site specific, it captures the place and the time.’

Western whiskeys: five to try

High West Rendezvous Rye

Previously a limited seasonal release, but now part of the core High West range, Rendezvous Rye includes a high amount of post still rye. The aromas are fruity and cosy, like a freshly baked cinnamon sugar-dusted berry pie, with hints of cocoa and orange. Flavours of baking spice, dates and toast with a long, creamy, ginger-kissed finish. Alc 46%

Killdeer Rye Whiskey

This flagship whiskey is Killdeer’s oldest barrel to date at 52 months, using a mash bill of 66% rye, 18% malted barley and 16% corn. The prominent rye component gives an upfront spicy mouthfeel. Golden, honeyed color in the glass, with aromas of butterscotch and clove. Flavours of walnut and brown sugar with a round, polenta cake finish. Alc 45%

Spirit Hound American Single Malt Whisky Barrel #448

Each expression is single barrel, with no blending, and contains all Colorado-grown grains including 17% peated malt for a nod to Scotland. Barrel #448 is high toned, sweet and herbal. Flavours of cherry, toffee and a milk chocolate finish. Award-winning, including Best of Show and Whisky of the Year at the 2024 London Spirits Competition. Alc 45%

Wayward Whiskey Single Malt

The expression that started it all for Venus Spirits, this single malt uses certified organic ingredients and is distilled in an alembic still less than a mile from the ocean. Aromas of cherry and baked goods with chocolate and baking spice flavours on the warm finish. Alc 46%

Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey

Aged five years, containing 68% corn, 20% wheat and 12% malted barley. Floral aromas, with a touch of vanilla caramel. Brown butter and baking spice flavours linger on this medium-bodied, amber-hued sipper. Alc 44%

Related articles

• US whiskey: Beyond the barrel
• American rye whiskey: A beginner’s guide and seven to try
• Bourbon: Beyond Kentucky and Tennessee

When Maker’s Mark launched the inaugural release of its new Star Hill Farm wheat whiskey earlier this year, it marked the first non-bourbon to come out of the Kentucky whiskey giant’s distillery in its over-70-year-old history. Its original bourbon recipe, formulated by Bill Samuels Senior and first released in 1958, flipped the corn script and focused on wheat to bring something different to the market.

Now, eighth-generation descendant distiller and MD Rob Samuels is taking the brand’s vision one step further with a whiskey that eschews corn altogether. Instead it showcases the flavour of soft red winter wheat, sourced within 96km of the distillery, and puts a spotlight on farming methods.

‘Star Hill Farm uses the profile of Marker’s Mark to propel the regenerative farming movement,’ says Samuels of the purpose behind the new direction, which has seen extensive research behind the scenes. ‘It takes whiskey out of manufacturing, and forces us to understand where flavour comes from.’

‘A seismic shift’

Kentucky has a rich history of whiskey-making that has become famous around the world for centuries. From its origins in the 18th century and the beginnings of corn and rye being used in distillation, through Prohibition in the 1920s, to the official specification of bourbon in 1964. It’s been known as the epicentre of this majority corn spirit for centuries.

Star Hill Farm’s release, however, says a lot about the Kentucky whiskey story in 2025. Heritage brands, such as Maker’s Mark, are proving that you can teach old dogs new tricks; while newer distilleries are coming of age. This year alone, the Kentucky Bourbon Trail added a further 15 distilleries to its list, bringing the total to 60 of the 100 that are operating in Kentucky.

Considering there were less than 10 bourbon distilleries a mere two decades ago, it’s safe to say there has been a seismic shift not just in volume but also, inevitably, in approach.

New kids on the block

A brand that has made a serious impression in the UK is New Riff Distilling, founded in 2014 by spirits entrepreneur Ken Lewis and helmed by Master Distiller Brian Sprance. With a background in beer and no whiskey experience before he joined the distillery over a decade ago, Sprance had a mentor in Larry Ebersold, nicknamed ‘the godfather of rye whiskey’.

When Lewis, Ebersold and Sprance began the journey of building an all-new Kentucky whiskey brand in 2014, the market was more impersonal than it is now. ‘A lot of people didn’t know where their whiskey was coming from,’ Sprance explains. ‘There were a lot of, what we call in America, NDPs [non-distiller producers]. We wanted to come out and say, “We are making our own whiskey”.’

And that they did. Now the brand has everything from straight bourbon, to a 100% rye, heritage grain, and single malt whiskeys. ‘If you can find a cereal grain on the planet that we have not thought about, then you gotta let me know,’ quips Sprance. The team is playing around with various yeast strains and a pot still too.

Inspired by the past

Another brand looking at the fundamentals of whiskey-making is Potter Jane. It began when Jane Bowie and Denny Potter – respectively head of blending and Master Distiller at Maker’s Mark – left in 2022 to set up their own distillery. They didn’t necessarily have a mind to make something radically new.

‘We looked around and said, “Nobody’s making the bourbon that reminds us of why we fell in love with bourbon”,’ says Bowie of the origins of Potter Jane. ‘Denny says all the time that we’re not doing anything you’ve not seen before, we’re probably just doing things you haven’t seen in a while.’

Bowie and Potter spent a year painstakingly designing their Springfield distillery to the specifications of how they think they’ll create their own style of bourbon. Low-temperature fermentations, a roller mill for their grains and copper doubler pot still alongside its column are just a few of the levers they’ve been pulling to create their new make.

Revivals and experiments

Other distilleries looking both to the past as well as the future are Peerless Distillery, which was revived in its current guise in 2014 but has a 150-year-old legacy. It adheres to the sweet mash – rather than the common sour mash – method.

The Old Taylor Distillery, was founded in 1887 and rocketed out of dereliction in 2014 to become Castle & Key. Here rye and bourbon are being made using precision-sourced grains and extensive vatting processes

Meanwhile Bardstown Bourbon Company – also founded in 2014 – works on a staggering number of mash bills, collaborating with other producers and offering customisable production techniques.

A bright future

What we will see coming out of Kentucky in the next 10 years – from distilleries both old and new – is set to be exciting, to say the least. At the very heart of this new-wave movement is producers who have something to say.

Star Hill Farm’s Master Distiller and head of innovation, Dr Blake Layfield, sees the new step for Maker’s Mark as having a greater message. ‘Grains matter, varietals matter, terroir matters, farming practices matter.’

It’s something that Bowie remembers as being a driving force at the genesis of Potter Jane: ‘We looked at each other and said, ‘If we don’t have a point of view, we should just shut up and stay where we are.” The last thing the world needs is another bottle of bourbon that doesn’t serve a purpose.’

Six Kentucky whiskies to try

Bardstown Bourbon Company Double Barreled Rye

Part of Bardstown’s Origin Series, this straight rye from the behemoth distillery is made up of 95% rye and 5% malted barley, aged for six years and finished in hybrid casks made up of cherry wood and oak. There is greenness from dill, white flower florality and richness from ripe cherries and spice. Alc 48%

Bomberger’s Declaration PFG Kentucky Straight Bourbon

Standing for Precision Fine Grain, this 2025 whiskey from the brilliant Michter’s is its first exploration of taking its fully matured bourbon and placing it in custom toasted and charred French fine grain oak barrels. The deep colour of this whiskey belies the florality that is matched with spice, dark chocolate and rich red fruits. Alc 50.1%

Maker’s Mark Star Hill Farm

Made using predominantly soft red winter wheat, this whiskey from the historic distillery is an evolution of its traditional recipe and, thankfully, it tastes absolutely exquisite. Think warm cherry pie, crumbly pastry, a dusting of baking spices, plus roasted pecan and macadamia nuts. One for sharing with American whiskey pessimists – it will convert even the staunchest. Alc 57.4%

New Riff Straight Bourbon Bottled-in-Bond

This high-rye bourbon from the trailblazers at New Riff has been bottled-in-bond and aged in 53-gallon toasted and charred new oak barrels for four years. The resulting whiskey is unmistakable butterscotch in character, with tell-tale rye spice, dark red fruits and a refreshing mint character on the finish. Alc 50%

Peerless Double Oak Rye

Twice barreled in new charred American oak, this rich rye has had the benefit of extracting flavour from wood two times around. Presented in the distinctive Peerless stubby bottle, the resulting whiskey is moody and punchy with notes of slightly smoky tobacco, dark chocolate and the distinctive herbal notes that Peerless balances so deftly. Alc 54.6%

Pinhook Straight Bourbon

Pinhook’s focus is to create bourbons with a new and refreshing approach. It works with a blended vintage technique and its flagship straight bourbon brings bright tropical fruits and sweet runny honey on the nose, with spice, candied nuts and sweet breads on the palate. Alc 47.5%

Related articles

• Bourbon: Beyond Kentucky and Tennessee
• American single malt: It’s official
• A world of whisky: Understanding whisky styles

Argentinian distillery La Alazana has revealed its debut Antarctic whisky bottling. Isla Marambio Eight-Year-Old single malt was distilled and initially matured for five years in virgin oak at the distillery in Chubut Province in Patagonia.

It was then transferred into ex-bourbon casks and spent three years at Base Marambio – an Argentinian research station on Seymour Island – maturing in an uninsulated hut under extreme Antarctic conditions, with temperatures ranging from -35°C to 10°C.

The project was conceived in 2022, when Daniel Monk, founder of Cask World – known for creating global whisky collaborations – approached La Alazana founders Lila and Néstor Serenelli, pioneering producers of Argentina’s first single malt whisky.

Two barrels of the distillery’s whisky were transferred to Base Marambio in November 2022, returning to Argentina this month for bottling. Isla Marambio Eight-Year-Old will be released globally next year, as part of the 8 Continent Series of world whiskies.

‘It made perfect sense to work on this project with Néstor and Lila Serenelli in Patagonia,’ said Monk. ‘They’re pioneers who, like me, believe in doing something that’s never been done before. They are the heroes who made it possible, overcoming every challenge to make the Antarctic maturation a reality.’

The project was carried out with support from Argentina’s Ministry of Defence and Armed Forces. They facilitated transport of the whisky casks both to and from Antarctica, aboard a Lockheed C-130 Hercules aircraft travelling between Argentine capital Buenos Aires, Río Gallegos and Base Marambio.

During maturation at Base Marambio, the outside of the whisky casks developed a frost coating. The combination of intense cold and extreme temperature fluctuations created a unique ageing process.

‘Although there are temperature variations, the mid temperatures tend to be under zero,’ explained distiller Lila Serenelli. ‘This movement allows extraction and oxidation, but holds the ethanol in, and reduces evaporation.’

Commenting on the flavour profile of Isla Marambio, she added: ‘We already know it’s different. When I was decanting it there was a very special floral note that is not so strong in our whisky usually.’

A champion of ‘New World whiskies’, Monk explained the inspiration for Cask World’s 8 Continent Series. ‘When I discovered so many countries making whisky few had ever heard of, I felt compelled to visit the distilleries and meet the people behind them. From that moment, I knew it was New World whiskies I wanted to focus on and to shine a light on this remarkable period of growth and creativity.’

When it is released in 2026, the limited-edition 8 Continent Series will include whiskies from India, South Africa, Brazil, Canada and Wales, alongside Isla Marambio.

‘The 8 Continent Series will be more than a set of whiskies; it will be the story of the world told through flavour, climate and collaboration. For me, the dream of maturing whisky on every continent isn’t just about whisky – it’s about what it represents: the spirit of exploration, connection, and pushing the limits of what’s possible,’ said Monk.

Related articles

• A world of whisky: Understanding whisky styles
• The rise of Indian single malts 
• Collector’s Guide: Whisky

Single malt Scotch has been on something of a journey over the past decade. First, rising demand and diminishing stocks led to the appearance of so-called no age statement whiskies; producers arguing that flavour was more important than a declared age statement. Out went the 10- to 21-year-old expressions and in came assemblages designed to give Master Blenders freedom to play with stocks.

Now the age statement is back. And how! In the past two years, a growing number of Scotch and Irish distillers have delved into the far reaches of their warehouses to reveal something extraordinary: whiskies aged for 40, 50, 65 and even 85 years.

These hyper-aged expressions have captured the imagination of collectors and connoisseurs alike, offering a window into whisky-making history.

Whisky of the last century

In early 2025, Glen Grant released a showstopper: its Splendours Collection 65 Year Old, distilled in 1958 and drawn from a single French oak butt.

This 65-year-old joins a growing cohort of venerable single malts. There’s the Glenrothes 51 Year Old, rich in figs and antique wood polish, and Gordon & MacPhail’s Mr George Legacy releases, including a standout Glen Grant 1953 that delivers remarkable freshness and fruity notes for its age. Later this year, the same company will release, incredibly, an 85-year-old single malt distilled at Glenlivet (125 decanters, with the price yet to be set).

The Irish are at it, too, with the release this year of the world’s oldest-ever Irish whiskey, the sixth and final release of Midleton’s Silent Distillery Chapter Four which, at 50 years of age (distilled in 1973), sets a new benchmark for Ireland’s old stocks. In the Emerald Isle’s north, Bushmills has also entered the conversation with its 46 Year Old, from a collection of its rarest casks, which date back as far as 1978.

So how do they taste? Surprisingly, these whiskies often defy expectations of tired or overpowering wood. Instead, careful cask management often yields layers of dried fruit, spice, leather, wax and the rarest of qualities, a delicate floral lift.

Prices typically range from £10,000 to £50,000 and beyond. Yes, these are investment-grade pieces, designed to appear and reappear at auctions for years to come. But for some, the appeal goes beyond an objet d’art, showing themselves truly when opened and poured. Not all will be, but those that are promise not just a rare experience, but an unforgettable one.

One to try

Glen Grant Splendour Collection 65 Year Old, Speyside, Scotland

£39,000/70cl Berry Bros & Rudd

Distilled in 1958 and matured in a single French oak butt for 65 years, this ultra-rare release celebrates Glen Grant’s heritage through the lens of time. Glen Grant is a malt that’s typically bottled young, at eight years old and a range of ages up to 30 years old. Their signature is soft orchard fruits and polished walnuts, both of which are still present on the nose of this hyper-aged whisky, all backed with layers of strawberry tart, cola cubes and antique leather. The palate gives Black Forest gateau and a long, aromatic cigar finish. A true time capsule. Alcohol 55.5%

Related articles

• Thanks a loch: The independent Scotch bottlers are coming
• Willem Dafoe teams up with Laphroaig: Discover the flavours behind ‘The Taste’ campaign
• Distilled: Appleton Estate launches its longest-aged expression to date

In the wider canon of recent ‘brand/talent’ partnerships, there are some which perhaps feel slightly shoehorned together, where the A-list status of the celebrity in question overshadows the brand, or the arrangement feels more like a convenient financial transaction, rather than anything meaningful. However, Laphroaig, hailing from Islay on the west coast of Scotland, may well have just landed the most ‘authentic’ one yet.

At a private event held at Selfridges’ subterranean London cinema screen, Laphroaig, famed for its pungent, robust and uncompromising flavour profile, unveiled a new short film campaign fronted by multi award-winning actor, Willem Dafoe. Known for his incredibly diverse range of films, including unforgettable, and visceral performances in The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, American Psycho, The Last Temptation of Christ and, perhaps most fittingly, the 2019 arthouse masterpiece, The Lighthouse (which evokes many coastal similarities to the island of Islay), Dafoe is no stranger to getting under the skin of a project.

The campaign – entitled ‘The Taste’, is directed by British filmmaker, Tim Pope and is the latest instalment in the brand’s ‘Unphorgettable’ campaign (which launched in 2024), and sees Dafoe explore the diverse, often highly challenging and unusual tasting notes used to describe the distinctive smoky profile of Laphroaig 10-year-old.

Gathered from members of the ‘Friends of Laphroaig’ the brand’s long running CRM programme, Dafoe narrates his way through the varied quotes – often with great humour – where the taste of Laphroaig is described as ‘like licking a walrus chomping on a seaweed cigar’ or ‘kissing a mermaid in a rocky rowboat on a fiery sea’ – with the actor’s distinctive gravelly tones and lived-in facial expressions giving each word more emphasis and meaning.

‘When the brand pitched me with the project, I thought this will be fun and I approached it like any acting job,’ explained Dafoe. ‘I’ve known the Laphroaig brand from when I was much younger and the people involved are really dedicated to what they’re doing, which turns me on, and I really saw it as a great creative opportunity.

‘The first time I ever travelled overseas, I went to Scotland – I was a kid,’ he continued. ‘And the first thing I thought when my feet touched down on the ground was, “something feels familiar here”. The land spoke to me – and “The Taste” depicts that sort of familiarity that’s found when exploring Laphroaig: it’s the flavours and how they come together.’

Speaking at the launch, managing director of Suntory Global Spirits, Chris Richardson said ‘Willem Dafoe is bold, curious and impossible to define, much like Laphroaig itself. His uncompromising dedication to craft mirrors our own approach to whisky making. He’s the ideal partner to bring to life the intense, unmistakable flavour of Laphroaig and to celebrate those around the world with character as distinctive as his.’

The campaign will extend into 2026 and it was revealed at the launch event that Dafoe has also collaborated on a limited edition release with the brand, together with Sarah Dowling, senior whisky maker for Laphroaig – with talk of a more ‘tropical, Pirates of the Caribbean’ feel, announced by the evening’s host, journalist and film critic, Mariella Frostrup – so potentially a rum cask-influenced Laphroaig? Time will tell.

Watch the full version of The Taste, or visit the Laphroaig website for more information.

Related articles

• Beyoncé unveils American whisky
• Thanks a loch: The independent Scotch bottlers are coming
• Highland Park’s master whisky maker Gordon Motion retires

Independent whisky bottler, One Cask at a Time, launched its debut collection on 4 September with six single malt whiskies, all bottled at cask strength. This follows the relaunch in July of spirits retailer Master of Malt’s in-house independent bottlings range as part of its 40th anniversary celebrations.

‘We have definitely seen a lot of new independent bottlers entering the market and I believe this can be a good thing,’ says Racheal Vaughan-Jones, chief marketing officer at Compass Box Whisky, another independent bottler that is well-established in this corner of the whisky world.

Tides in the market

This rise in independent bottling follows a long period of industry speculation about a ‘second whisky loch’. Vaughan-Jones notes that whisky’s long history has always featured ‘ebbs and flows’. With this new ebb, independent bottlers are able to offer drinkers aged whiskies at keen prices.

The selection from One Cask at a Time ranges from a Ben Nevis 2012 for £89 up to a 1996 Highland Park for £699. ‘Only casks of exceptional quality have been chosen for bottling under the One Cask at a Time label,’ explains Russell Bradley, head of brand development.

Value for whisky lovers

Master of Malt, meanwhile, uses its established buying power and industry relationships to offer aged whiskies at prices that smaller retailers would struggle to match. They start at £34.95 for the unnamed A Secret Speyside Distillery 10-year-old. Other offerings include a Blended Grain 37-year-old 1987 at £99.99 and Tobermory 29-year-old 1996 at £199.99.

‘This isn’t whisky for vaults or portfolios. It’s whisky for drinking,’ says head of whisky Sam Simmons.

Curious drinkers

Newer entrants such as The Heart Cut, founded in 2023 by industry veterans Georgie Bell and Fabrizio Leoni, are finding plenty of opportunity. ‘Independent bottlings are seeing a resurgence because drinkers are increasingly curious,’ says Bell.

The company focuses on world whiskies, though the range does also include Scottish malts. The Heart Cut bottles include #01, a heather-smoked Danish single malt from Stauning Distillery finished in Madeira casks at £68.50, as well as #17, a Lochlea single malt Scotch whisky at £58.

‘We’ve had no challenges sourcing so far,’ Bell adds. ‘In fact, the opposite.’

Sourcing strategies

These bottlers employ various approaches to secure aged stock. Some, like Cut Your Wolf Loose founder Seb Woolf, have been ‘laying down stocks for years’ and can ‘price effectively rather than against high prices of the liquid in recent years’.

This strategy shows in releases like the Caol Ila 17-year-old X Ricky Also Release 14 at £70 and Tamnavulin 13-year-old X Zombiesqueegee Release 13 at £55.

Beyond the brands

For drinkers, this means the chance to savour whiskies that just a few years ago may have been out of their reach – as long as they’re willing to look beyond the distillery-branded bottles. And for the wider whisky industry, it means a long-established pressure valve will help the distillers weather any coming storm.

As Vaughan-Jones puts it: ‘Whisky blending was built on a long tradition of trading casks, and I don’t see any signs of that generosity and collaboration going away.’

Related articles

• Gordon & MacPhail announces release of world’s oldest single malt Scotch
• Going strong: The rise of higher proof American whiskeys
• Mixed fortunes for Scotch labels at auctions

The launch comes on the heels of a number of aged releases, with The Béhôlden (aged 21 years) in 2023 and The Badönkådonk (aged 25 years) in 2024.

Today (3 September, 2025), WhistlePig released fewer than four barrels of The BigShǝBàng, which it claims to be North America’s first 30-year aged single-malt whiskey.

Far from the famous hills of Kentucky’s Bourbon County, the WhistlePig distillery is ensconced on a 200-ha farm in Vermont. Surrounded by rye and experimental grains, WhistlePig aims to create farm-to-bottle whiskeys. With the focus on America’s original whiskey, made from rye, the distillers and blenders at WhistlePig aim to take American rye to new heights in terms of barrel age.

The distiller’s new release has spent 30 years in American oak, followed by four weeks’ secondary ageing in Vin Santo barrels. An Italian dessert wine that is prized and known for its long ageing in barrel.

‘We’ve been hunting down Vin Santo barrels for a few years now, and the stars finally aligned with a precious few to finish this inaugural release,’ said Meghan Ireland, chief blender at WhistlePig. ‘As with many of our most elusive casks, they’ve proved to be a catalyst for complexity.’

Vin Santo, largely made in Tuscany, is renowned for its complexity, and while the ageing and dried berries used in the wine play a role, many say it’s all about the barrels. The smaller casks called caratelli are kept for many years, and over time develop yeasts unique to the barrel, referred to as ‘mother’ or ‘madre’ yeast. These result in unique styles for each producer, from dry to sweet.

Like Vin Santo, often only sold at the winery’s cellar, The BigShǝBàng is only available at the WhistlePig Vault in Louisville, Kentucky, as well as at a very limited number of fine whiskey bars throughout the US.

‘This is unlike anything we’ve ever put in a bottle,’ said Ireland.

Each single-barrel bottle is 90.4 proof (45.2% abv), with a 100% malted barley mashbill and a retail price of $4,999.

Related articles

• Gordon & MacPhail announces release of world’s oldest single malt Scotch
• American single malt: It’s official
• Penderyn launches first whisky from its North Wales distillery

As a general rule, many American whiskeys are bottled at a standard 80 proof (Alc 40%). However, higher proof whiskeys – often referred to as barrel proof or cask strength – are on the rise.

By bottling directly from the barrel without adding any water to lower the proof, these whiskeys are presented in their purest form and offer one powerful sip.

Today, distillers are bottling cask strength whiskeys at well over 100 proof to offer more intense and concentrated flavours not found with lower proof expressions.

Wanting more

The market is seeing a growing demand for bolder, more expressive spirits – and distillers are all for it. Producers nationwide are using this movement to experiment with new and complex offerings to showcase their whiskey’s authenticity to customers who are actively seeking a more robust spirit.

Woodford Reserve saw the demand and launched its Distillery Series Chocolate Whisper Redux in February. At 139.4 proof, it’s the distillery’s highest proof to date. It offers signature Woodford Reserve notes of rich vanilla and toasted oak, but with much deeper layers of dark coffee and cocoa.

‘The elevated proof heightens the sensory experience, bringing forward sharper spice, deeper oak and greater complexity, compared to the softer profile of lower-proof pours,’ says Elizabeth McCall, Master Distiller at Woodford Reserve.

‘Barrel-strength expressions are a response to today’s more adventurous, flavour-driven drinkers who value authenticity and control in their whiskey,’ she adds.

Experience the elegance of Pessac-Léognan – join the Château Smith Haut Lafitte Masterclass at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London. Don’t miss out

Four Roses Distillery has also launched a Single Barrel Collection, all bottled at 100 proof, for its customers seeking more top-shelf expressions. ‘We’re seeing more and more consumers gravitate toward the higher tiers, and therefore, higher proof,’ says Brent Elliott, Four Roses Master Distiller (below). ‘These spirits tend to offer bolder, more robust flavours.’

‘Cask-strength beverages of all distilled spirits possess more powerful flavour profiles in their chemical makeup than reduced-strength spirits,’ agrees F Paul Pacult, Master Blender at Jacob’s Pardon.

‘This is frequently characterised by warming, prickly sensations on the forward palate and then fullness, richness, and heat later in the throat,’ he says.

The high degree of alcohol is to thank for these unique profiles. Pacult explains that it makes for a significantly more profound sensory experience on all levels. ‘Smell, taste, texture, it’s all different from reduced-strength alcoholic beverages,’ he adds.

Creating complexity

World Whiskey Society’s Wyatt Earp Hazmat 13 Year Edition bottled at 160 proof, amplifies both aroma and palate complexity.

‘At this strength, the spirit retains deep extraction from the wood with bold waves of dark chocolate, smokiness, roasted coffee bean and cured tobacco, layered over classic notes of toasted oak, leather, and dark caramel,’ says Alex Kogan, CEO of World Whiskey Society.

‘High-proof whiskey isn’t just about strength; it’s about intensity, authenticity and honouring traditional American distilling and maturation,’ he adds. ‘This is a whiskey meant to stand its ground.’

How to taste higher proofs

An intense flavour profile can be intimidating to some drinkers, especially those who are more prone to the sweeter, more muted expressions. But high-proof whiskeys don’t need to be thought of as daunting.

Mike Vacheresse, co-owner and beverage director at Travel Bar Brooklyn in New York, has a strategy he uses for his customers – and it begins with using the right glass.

‘I advise my guests to drink higher proof whiskey out of a rocks glass, double old-fashioned or an all-purpose wine glass,’ he says. ‘A Glencairn is not my recommendation because of the concentration of alcohol hitting your nose.

Next, it’s important to always take a small sip of any whiskey, no matter the proof, to taste it as the producer bottled it, and then go from there. ‘This small sip will let you know if the whiskey needs water added to fit your palate,’ Vacheresse explains.

‘I recommend adding three small drops of water with a dropper for an ounce of whiskey to slowly open up the spirit and proof it down,’ he adds.

The art of drinking

Nashville Barrel Co in Tennessee is known for its high-proof bourbon, with most of its bottles topping at 122-130 proof. It’s an ideal distillery to visit if you want to uncover something bold and new.

Co-founder Mike Hinds loves educating beginner whiskey drinkers – who tend to stay with the 70 to 90 proof range – on higher proofs and how to enjoy them.

‘We teach people different ways to drink whiskey,’ he says. ‘It could be neat, or put it over an ice cube. We love to show that a 10-year-old 120 proof bourbon can drink better than a four-year-old 80 proof.’

A bold journey

The standard strength of American whiskey between 80 and 90 proof is not going anywhere. However, if your palate is eager for something more adventurous, there are plenty of higher proof whiskeys to try; just be sure to go about it the right way.

‘Drinking high-proof whiskey is about exploration—it’s not about proving how much heat you can handle,’ says Kogan. ‘Do not rush; savour each sip, ask questions, take notes, and most importantly – enjoy and share your thoughts.

High-proof US whiskeys: six to try

Four Roses Single Barrel OBSV

Kentucky straight bourbon aged seven to nine years, with a combination of mash bills (35% rye, 60% corn) and yeast strains. Rye spice on the nose, followed by apricot, pear and cinnamon on the tongue with a toasted oak finish. Can’t go wrong with a Manhattan. Alcohol 50% 

Jacob’s Pardon Small Batch Recipe #3

An 18-year-old American light whiskey distilled with 99% corn and 1% malted barley. Aromas of toasted marshmallow and spice guide the way for a smooth taste of oak and caramel before ending with a satiny finish. Perfect for a Paper Plane. Alc 71.4%

Nashville Barrel Co The Lodge Collection #1

Indiana straight bourbon aged for nine years and bottled at barrel strength. Starts sweet with notes of brown sugar, followed by apricot, dark fruits and leather, with an oily finish that lingers. A stand-out option for a Gold Rush. Alc 65.06%

Ross & Squibb Remus 6 Year Old Highest Rye

Straight bourbon whiskey made with 51% corn, 10% malted barley and 39% rye, that’s been aged six years. Sweet maple aroma led by candied fruit and spicy cinnamon, with a leather finish. A bold choice for a Boulevardier. Alc 54.5%

Woodford Reserve Distillery Series Chocolate Whisper Redux

Distilled from 72% corn, 18% rye and 10% malted barley and aged for 12 years. Distinctive, warm aromas of chocolate and toasted oak led by a rich palate of cacao nib and roasted coffee, with a candied pecan finish. Try it in The Revolver, a caffeinated twist on a Manhattan, made with coffee liqueur and orange bitters. Alc 69.7%

World Whiskey Society Wyatt Earp Hazmat 13 Year Edition

Aged for 13 years and crafted with 73% malted barley, 14.9% malted rye and 12.1% malted wheat. Ripe dark berries with a layer of oak and vanilla hit the nose before leading to a creamy palate and a lingering finish that packs some heat. Keep it neat. Alc 80%

Related articles

• American single malt: It’s official
• US whiskey: Beyond the barrel
• Bourbon: Beyond Kentucky and Tennessee

For decades, the mere mention of Indian whisky left whisky aficionados clutching at their pearls. Local consumption was dominated by high volume, affordable, molasses-based Indian-Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL). While Scotch remained the gold standard of luxury with Johnnie Walker leading the pack.

The turning point came in 2004, when Amrut Distilleries launched the first Indian single malt – in Scotland no less. ‘Fortune favours the bold,’ said Neelakanta Jagdale, Amrut’s late chairman.

The gamble paid off. In 2010, Jim Murray, author of the acclaimed Whisky Bible, listed Amrut Fusion in his top three world whiskies, launching a new chapter in whisky history.

Today, Indian single malts are owning their story and crafting an original identity through terroir and local culture, while raking in the global accolades.

Made in India: geographical identity

India has a large and exceptionally diverse geography that shapes the personalities of its whisky distilleries.

For example in the south, Bangalore-based Amrut sits at 1,000m on the Deccan Plateau, with plentiful access to borehole water. The milder temperatures and moderate humidity here lead to a fast but consistent ageing process, which facilitates the distillery’s pioneering efforts with its experimental bottlings.

Meanwhile in Goa’s tropical heat, the ‘angels’ share’ for Paul John whiskies, produced by John Distilleries, can reach 10-12% – far higher than Scotland’s 1-2%. But the high humidity slows alcohol evaporation, resulting in remarkably balanced, cask-strength whiskies with a briny, spicy edge, courtesy of sea air and mountain water.

Reflecting Rajasthan

Diageo India created beauty from adversity in the harsh northwestern desert landscape of Rajasthan. ‘Of our seven distilleries, we chose the one that would defy the odds of making a good single malt given the high temperatures and dry microclimate,’ says chief innovation officer, Vikram Damodaran. ‘We chose Rajasthan for all the challenges that it offered – and for the opportunity to give back more than we took.’

Named after a local bird, the Godawan Single Malt series is Diageo’s first non-UK premium single malt offering and has launched to great critical acclaim. It is made with a water-efficient barley strain, using the same process of slow trickle distillation favoured by local producers of heritage Indian liquor.

The project has invested heavily in local water and wash projects, as well as the revival of the near-extinct godawan bird, also known as the great Indian bustard. ‘It’s not just another single malt. It’s a single malt with a purpose,’ states Damodaran.

Nestled in the slightly cooler Aravalli Range, Rajasthani neighbour Behror distillery is owned by Globus Spirits. It’s the home of the latest kid on the Indian single malt block: Dōaab India Craft Whisky Single Malt. ‘We use Aravalli’s natural mineral water, which contributes significantly to the finesse and balance in our distillate,’ says Shekar Swarup, joint MD of Globus Spirits.

Himalayan spirit

GianChand in Jammu and Rampur in Uttar Pradesh boast the Himalayan advantage. ‘Extractive hot summers [40℃] and very cold winters [1℃] create a different ageing process, with a high angels’ share in the first year, averaging down to 7% from year two,’ explains Kunal Madan, Rampur’s SVP international business. ‘This allows for a comparatively slower maturation cycle, resulting in graceful liquids with a great deal of personality.’

GianChand is produced in India’s northernmost distillery, owned by DeVANS Modern Breweries. It’s situated 20km from the volatile India-Pakistan border, which saw heavy shelling as recently as April this year.

The distillery boasts a DNA of innovation and sustainable practices. ‘We built our first in-house pot still back in the 1960s,’ says Prem Dewan (above), chairman of DeVANS Modern Breweries. ‘We use grain waste as fuel and recycle 90% of the water used.’

Named after Dewan Gian Chand, founder of DeVANS Modern Breweries, GianChand is an exciting set of single malts that demonstrate what is possible and what is to come for the Indian single malt category.

The DNA of Indian single malts

All Indian single malts begin with six-row barley, which is higher in protein and enzymes than Scotland’s two-row barley. ‘Six-row brings distinctive grain-forward richness and nutty complexity, rooting the whisky in Indian terroir,’ explains Swarup of Globus Spirits.

It is worth noting that there’s no locally identified source of peat in India. All peat is imported from Scotland. For that reason Rampur has eschewed peated offerings. ‘Our endeavour is to showcase India to the world and stick to our origins for authenticity,’ states Madan. ‘That’s our ethos and it is reflected in each Rampur expression.’

Rampur’s multi-award winning Asava Indian Single Malt is a case study in the cask experimentation that has become a defining feature of Indian single malts. It’s the world’s first single malt to be finished in an Indian red wine cask.

Cask innovation

Craig Wallace, Master Blender for the Diageo World Whisky portfolio, is enthusiastic about, ‘Godawan taking local flavours to another level, using herbs and spices and unusual cask finishing.’ Godawan is matured in ex-bourbon casks that are conditioned with a water infusion of local herbs for two months pre-transfer.

Amrut’s Naarangi – Hindi for ‘orange’ – is the only other Indian single malt known to use this approach. The three-year-old single malt is matured casks which previously held a combination of oloroso Sherry, matured wine and orange peel for a further three years.

‘What sets Indian whisky apart is our philosophy. We craft with intuition, rooted in tradition but unafraid to innovate,’ says Paul P John, chairman and MD of John Distilleries. ‘Our single malts carry the warmth, depth, and diversity of the land.’

The dawn of a new era

The Indian Malt Whisky Association (IMWA) officially launched in March this year. Like the Scotch Whisky Association, it’s a trade body set up to safeguard and promote India’s malt whisky heritage and position India amongst global whisky elite.

‘IMWA will echo the common sentiment of Indian distillers and serve as the right platform to showcase the rich legacy of Indian craftsmanship to the world,’ says Rakshit Jagdale, current MD of Amrut and a founding member of the IMWA.

What about the competition between Indian single malts and Scotch? Sachin Mehta, India MD of Scotch maker William Grant & Sons, takes a very positive view. ‘Indian single malts are helping the entire premium whisky category grow,’ he says.

The message is clear: India is no longer just a market for whisky – it’s a maker. Indian single malts are a proud reflection of a nation’s confidence and creativity; liquid proof that India’s whisky story is only just beginning…

Six Indian single malts to try

Amrut Triparva

The first triple-distilled Indian single malt. A complex nose of sandalwood backed by dried blackcurrants and mandarin. The texture is pure silk with a tropical fruit explosion and warming ginger. A sweet honey and white pepper finish. Only 5,400 bottles produced. Alcohol 50%

Dōaab 01 Six Blind Men & The Elephant

Dōaab is named for the land between two rivers in the slightly cooled Aravalli range in Rajasthan. While the name of its first expression refers to the Indian parable of six blind men touching different parts of an elephant, illustrating how different perspectives can lead to a better understanding of a complex whole. Aged in ex-bourbon casks, this has notes of dried raisins and a touch of smoke followed by wildflower honey and vanilla malt shake. Toasted almonds, cassia bark and a dried coconut-laced finish. Alc 42.8%

GianChand Adambaraa

Literally translating to ‘absolute pleasure’, this whisky delivers on that promise. Unpeated, with six years in first-fill ex-bourbon casks, it offers sweet florals that waft from the glass with honey-drizzled white peaches. Moreish palate of vanilla, toffee and apricots. Extraordinarily delicate, demonstrating the impact of its Himalayan heritage. Alc 42.8%

Godawan 02 Fruit & Spice

Unusually aged ex-bourbon casks seasoned in local botanicals – jatamansi and rasna – and finished in untoasted, porous, cherry wood casks for 10 months. Sweet spices and bran husk aromas followed by dried plums and figs. Bright and zesty with a malty finish. Alc 46%

Paul John Classic Select Cask

A personal favourite of Paul John Master Distiller Michael D’Souza. Dried venison and smoke leap from the glass. Spiced fruitcake with honey, black pepper and dark chocolate on the palate, with an exceptionally smooth finish courtesy of the Goan humidity. Alc 55.2%

Rampur Asava

Finished in Indian Cabernet Sauvignon casks, this is a very complex whisky. Notes of vanilla and black fruit compote. Fruits get brighter on the palate; red apple and butterscotch tart with crushed black cardamom and bayleaves. A long, lingering, very Cabernet finish. Majestic! Alc 45%

Related articles

• A world of whisky: Understanding whisky styles
• Asian spirits revolution
• Gordon & MacPhail announces release of world’s oldest single malt Scotch

The Welsh whisky producer has unveiled Serpent’s Tears, a peated single malt from its Llandudno site.

This is ‘the “first of its kind” peated whisky to be made in Wales since Frongoch Distillery closed over 100 years ago,’ according to Penderyn.

The whisky, which was released on 17 July, marks ‘a proud moment for our team and for Welsh whisky as a whole’, said Stephen Davies, CEO of Penderyn.

The inaugural release from master blender Aista Phillips and team is inspired by the surrounding Great Orme headland, the name of which comes from the Old Norse meaning ‘Great Serpent’. It is a nod to the longevity of the area, which stood the test of time through dinosaurs and the Ice Age, filling sea-farers with fear. It is a reminder of ‘the adventurous spirit of past explorers and the natural beauty of our home’, said Davies.

‘Penderyn’s pioneering spirit has been central to the resurgence of Welsh whisky over the past 25 years,’ the distillery added.

‘With the launch of Serpent’s Tears, the distillery not only cements its presence in North Wales, but also reaffirms its commitment to innovation, quality, and the celebration of Welsh culture on the global stage.’

Penderyn opened the North Wales facility in 2021. Its first site in the Brecon Beacons was established in 2000 and in 2023 it founded a third site in Swansea.

Serpent’s Tears

Aromas of fresh lemon, apple and white pear interwoven with peaty smoke and clove. It evolves on the palate, delivering smoked almond, tarte tatin, raisin and star anise. Beautifully integrated alcohol and a pleasing balance of sweetness and smoke underpin the long finish this elegant first release. Alcohol 46%

Related articles

• Gordon & MacPhail announces release of world’s oldest single malt Scotch
• American single malt: It’s official
• Highland Park’s master whisky maker Gordon Motion retires

American oak Sherry cask number 336 was filled on 3 February 1940 at the Speyside distillery, and emptied 85 years and two days later, on 5 February 2025, yielding a total of 125 decanters – designed by American architect Jeanne Gang on the theme of ‘Artistry in Oak’.

The release, bottled at 43.7% abv, is the latest in a series of record-breaking single malts bottled by Gordon & MacPhail, including an 80-year-old Glenlivet, priced at £90,000 in 2021 and taken from a cask also filled on 3 February 1940; and a 75-year-old Mortlach, released in 2015 at £20,000.

‘We’ve not bottled this just because it’s 85 years old, but because we’ve been monitoring it for so long, and we know that it’s outstanding,’ Stephen Rankin, director of prestige at Gordon & MacPhail and fourth-generation family member, told Decanter. ‘Age is the number, but why it gets bottled is the quality. It’s not bottled because it’s very old; it’s bottled because of the quality.’

Rankin explained that the cask was ‘so important’ to ensuring that quality at such an advanced age: cask 336 was an American oak ‘transport cask’ used to ship rich oloroso Sherry to Scotland from Williams & Humbert in Jerez, with unusually thick staves and a tight grain helping to ensure that the wood did not overwhelm the distillate.

The cask was filled early in the Second World War on the orders of father and son John and George Urquhart, at a time when whisky production was curtailed due to rationing and lack of manpower. ‘Most distilleries had cut production by half, Glenlivet probably by two-thirds,’ said Rankin.

At the time, the vast majority of malt whisky was destined for the blends that dominated the market – but Gordon and MacPhail was unusual in earmarking casks to be bottled in their own right as single malts.

‘This cask was filled to be aged beyond what was normal for the time,’ said Rankin. ‘That was what Gordon & MacPhail were already doing – and it would have been destined for single malt, and a single malt of age. We were the licensed bottlers for Glenlivet at that time.’

Tasting notes for the whisky are being kept under wraps, but Rankin said that previous releases from the same period shared remarkable similarities with today’s Glenlivet, including a distinctive orange note – alongside a sooty smoke more redolent of the production methods used at the time.

Full details of the decanter design, as well as pricing and tasting notes, will be announced later this year, with the whisky due to be released in October 2025. Decanter #1 will be auctioned by Christie’s New York in November, with proceeds (minus costs) donated to American Forests, a US non-profit organisation focused on forest restoration.

Those interested in purchasing Gordon & MacPhail 85 Years Old from Glenlivet Distillery should register their interest at gordonandmacphail.com.

Related articles

• Oldest-ever Irish whiskey is released
• Mixed fortunes for Scotch labels at auctions
• Highland Park’s master whisky maker Gordon Motion retires

It was an exciting start to the year for American whiskey. For the first time in 52 years, the category gained a new official style: American single malt. On 18 December 2024, the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau approved the official classification, effective from 15 January 2025.

Now, anything called American single malt must adhere to certain production methods. These include: being made from 100% malted barley; distilled at a single distillery; mashed, distilled and matured in the US; matured in casks not exceeding 700L; distilled to no more than 80% abv; and bottled at 40% abv. Interestingly, the rules eschew minimum age statements, as well as any specifications on still or cask type – meaning more flavour opportunities.

This isn’t to say that American single malt wasn’t already being made – indeed, more and more producers across the US have been showing whiskey lovers how diverse single malts can be, depending on where they’re produced. ‘Diverse climates and high-quality raw materials give distillers across the country the freedom to offer a compelling new perspective to the world of whiskey,’ explains Westland Distillery master distiller Tyler Pederson. ‘The ingredients reflect where we come from, as does our process… we lean into our unique climate to enhance the whiskey throughout maturation.’

The decision was a coup for producers, who’ve been striving for the stamp of approval. The American Single Malt Whiskey Commission started its endeavours in 2016, with the likes of Seattle’s Westland, as well as Texas’ Balcones Distilling, Illinois’ FEW Spirits and Oregon’s Westward Distillery, flying the collective flag for this ever-growing category. ‘We were all eager to showcase our abilities,’ explains Pederson, ‘and to stand shoulder to shoulder with the great distilleries on the world stage.’

The new classification marks a newfound common ground among makers, as well as a chance to change the perception of consumers, who often misinterpret American single malt as being akin to single malt styles from other countries. Where it does align is in how it can be drunk – neat, on ice or in cocktails. Basically, any way you like.

One to try

Westland American Oak Single Malt

USA

This single malt is made from Washington State barley and aged in new American oak casks in the cool humidity of Westland’s seaside home. Expect a creamy texture with notes of milk chocolate, earthy coffee and caramelised banana. Alcohol 46%

Related articles

• Old Rip Van Winkle sets new auction record for American whiskey
• New wave American whiskey
• US whiskey: Beyond the barrel

Gordon Motion has spent 27 years at the helm of the Orkney distillery’s renowned whisky portfolio. He now hands the baton to Marc Watson who brings more than 11 years of experience to the table, including his role as master blender for The Famous Grouse and Naked Malt since 2023.

Motion was assistant to the whisky quality manager for all the Edrington brands for 10 years before taking over as master blender in 2008. He has looked after Highland Park almost exclusively since 2018.

‘I want to thank Highland Park for being my home for close to three decades,’ Motion said. ‘It’s been a great privilege and even better fun to have been a custodian of this truly great single malt whisky.’

Reflecting on his time at Highland Park, Motion pinpointed some highlights: ‘From selecting 10 exceptional casks from 1968 to create landmark releases like our 56-year-old, through to playing a pivotal role in the growth of our single malt portfolio, together with introducing our first Cask Strength and Global Travel Retail releases to the world.’

Motion’s successor, Watson, was awarded Distillery Manager of the Year at Icons of Whisky Scotland in 2023. He has spent the last six months working with Motion to familiarise himself with Highland Park’s unique flavour profile.

‘I’ve always been a huge fan of Highland Park and its different by nature approach to whisky and to life and have a huge admiration for my predecessors who have created the legacy that makes it such a special single malt Scotch Whisky,’ said Watson.

He told Decanter he was excited to ‘see what I can bring to [the role] from a creative point of view, and you’ll see that with new releases and things going forward but keeping the core the same and the quality the same’.

Motionm said, ‘I couldn’t ask for a better successor than Marc Watson to take Highland Park into the future.’

‘His attention to detail, deep knowledge and love of whisky and distilling, together with his creative flair, makes him the ideal person to become Highland Park’s next master whisky maker.’

Motion has created Sherry Skies from ‘three first-fill European oak Sherry quarter casks, three first-fill American oak quarter casks and three first-fill Bourbon casks’. The Sherry casks were seasoned and crafted in Jerez, specifically for Highland Park.

‘I’ve sampled 100,000s of casks during my 27-year career, and the nine selected for Sherry Skies deliver a unique depth of flavour – singing with the Sherry sweetness that I have loved exploring and perfecting, balanced with the subtle hint of aromatic smoke of our Orkney-heathered peat,’ said Motion.

‘I hope this farewell dram will give people as much joy savouring it, as I had creating it,’ he added.

When asked what he was most looking forward to in retirement, Motion commented: ‘Sitting down with a whisky and not having to talk about it.’

Kirkwall-based Highland Park, now in its 227th year of production, stands among Scotland’s oldest whisky distilleries.

Limited edition Sherry Skies

1,200 bottles available

48.8% abv

£265 RRP

Sherry Skies it is available to purchase from Highland Park Distillery, the Albert Street flagship store and via the distiller’s website.

Related articles

• Highland Park heads back to the 1960s with latest release
• Mixed fortunes for Scotch labels at auctions
• Distilled: New Scotch whisky bottler launches single malt collection

Some of Scotland’s most high-profile whisky brands faced contrasting fates during a brace of recent auctions.

Bottles of The Dalmore and Bowmore fell short of their pre-sale estimates, while a lot featuring The Balvenie failed to find a buyer.

‘The Rare’, the third bottle in The Dalmore’s ‘Luminary’ series, fetched HK$400,000 (£38,690) during Sotheby’s spirits auction in Hong Kong, falling short of its pre-sale estimate of between HK$800,000 and HK$1,600,000.

The decanter holding the 52-year-old single malt was housed in a sculpture created by Ben Dobbin, a designer at architecture firm Foster + Partners.

Only two sculptures were made to accompany this year’s edition in the Luminary series, with the second due to go on display at The Dalmore’s distillery near Alness, in the Highlands.

The whisky was matured in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels, before being finished in a complex set of casks: vintage 1980 Calvados; 1940 Colheita Port; Tawny Port; 40-year-old Pedro Ximénez Sherry; and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Proceeds from the sale of the bottle were donated to the Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum in Dundee, which opened in 2018 and has received support from The Dalmore through a partnership that began in 2020, including donations of more than £200,000.

Kieran Healey-Ryder, global head of communications at Whyte & Mackay, the distiller that owns The Dalmore, told Decanter: ‘The beauty of this partnership has been that we’ve worked with Sotheby’s for five years alongside V&A Dundee.

‘We’ve had conversations with architects about the balance between the flair and form, the style and structure, of our whisky.

‘Each of the architects who we’ve worked with over these three editions has led on the creation of the whisky, from the blending through to the flavour notes.’

A bottle of 54-year-old Bowmore also failed to reach its pre-sale valuation of between £140,000 and £220,000, changing hands at Sotheby’s online whisky auction for £112,500.

The ‘Bowmore ARC-54: Iridos Edition’ included a decanter designed by Aston Martin, part of a long-running partnership between the Islay distillery and the luxury car marque.

The whisky was blended from a 1967 European oak butt, a 1968 Sherry butt, and a 1968 American oak hogshead.

The proceeds from the sale of ARC-54 Iridos’s predecessor, ARC-52 Mokume, which fetched £187,500 in 2023, were donated to communities on Islay, while money from the latest sale will fund projects in communities surrounding owner Suntory’s other Scottish distilleries: Ardmore, Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch.

However, the same auction failed to find a buyer for ‘The Balvenie 50-Year-Old Private Cask #16560 Trunk’, a collection of 10 bottles of the Speyside distillery’s single malt displayed in a suitcase, which carried a pre-sale estimate of between £240,000 and £450,000.

Sotheby’s said the auction marked the first appearance by any bottles from The Balvenie’s rare cask programme.

Each of the 220 bottles filled from the rare cask – housed in 22 wooden chests – is owned by a single collector, who donated the lot to raise money for the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and The King’s Trust, formerly The Prince’s Trust, a charity founded in 1976 to ‘improve the lives of disadvantaged young people in the UK’.

Related articles

• Best whiskies for Father’s Day 2025: 10 top bottles
• International Beverage launches Prakaan single malt globally
• US whiskey: Beyond the barrel

What better way to celebrate Father’s Day than with a bottle of something special? But with so much whisky out there to choose from, deciding which bottle to buy can be confusing.

The good news is there’s arguably never been a better time to buy whisky. Alongside established producers in Scotland and the US, whisky distilleries are popping up all over the globe, helping to create a varied world of whisky. From Tasmania and New Zealand to Denmark and Finland, you’ll find international drams to suit every taste.

Meanwhile the big names of Scotch, bourbon and Irish whiskey are now upping their game as never before, experimenting with raw ingredients, cask finishes and special releases.

With innovative approaches to distillation, a brave new generation of whisky makers is not afraid to rip up the rulebook. They are showing real creativity in the pursuit of fresh flavours and distinctive new tastes.

The result is that there’s something in our top 10 selection for every paternal taste. Perhaps a spicy barrel-strength US rye, an Irish pot-still whiskey finished in oloroso Sherry casks – or a limited-edition single malt Scotch to celebrate The Open golf championship.

Best whiskies for Father’s Day

Cù Bòcan Creation #8

Now here’s a niche claim to fame: this is reputedly the first peated Scotch to be matured in ice wine casks. Never mind – Cù Bòcan’s experimental releases have been worth watching for years now. This eighth incarnation combines the ice wine element with spirit aged in ex-Verdejo casks to conjure a lip-smacking combination of ripe tropical fruits and lime leaf, along with fragrant, earthy smoke and a herbal edge. Alc 46%

Glen Moray Forbidden Fruit

Part of the Speyside distillery’s experimental Xperience range, this is mainly matured in ex-bourbon and then finished in ex-Calvados casks, sweetening Moray’s juicily fruity character yet further, with plenty of vanilla and light caramel too. Easy-drinking – refreshing, even – and a great summer whisky for sipping or mixing. Good value, with the only minor quibble the low bottling strength. Alc 40%

Glen Scotia Campbeltown Malts Festival Edition 2026 7 Year Old

These annual festival releases are both highly collectable and generally excellent value. Here, relative youth makes for a vibrant, energetic character in a medium-peated malt that’s enjoyed classic maturation in ex-bourbon casks before a six-month finish in ruby Port casks – bringing plenty of ripe red apple and a suggestion of cassis to a mouthwateringly saline, gently smoky whisky. Alc 53.9%

Loch Lomond The Open 19 Year Old

Loch Lomond is the official spirit of The Open golf championship, and this is one of two single malts released to mark the 154th tournament at Royal Birkdale. It’s a toasty whisky, with lots of spice and vanilla from American oak, as well as fruits of the forest notes from part-ageing in ex-tawny Port casks. Decent value in today’s market, and distinguished by a long finish and just a whisper of smoke. Alc 46.9%

Michter’s US*1 Barrel Strength Rye

It’s nearly 30 years since Joseph Magliocco revived the Michter’s name, buying the trademark for a princely US$245. Since then, the now Kentucky-based distillery has built a lofty reputation for whiskey excellence, with rye at its heart. This is punchy, but also relaxed enough to let the fruit shine through alongside the peppery spice. The perfect Manhattan whiskey? Alc 55.1%

Old Pulteney 10 Year Old 200th Anniversary Distillery Exclusive

It’s two centuries since the first spirit ran from the inimitably quirky Pulteney distillery in the far northern fishing port of Wick. The spirit character here can be divisive – funky, appropriately maritime but always deep and resonant – and this commemorative bottling celebrates that with lots of dried fruit, baking spices and salted caramel. Alc 50.4%

Port Askaig Sherry Cask

Some have voiced scepticism about the combination of peated whisky with ex-Sherry casks but, when done well, it can bring new layers of richness and complexity. That’s very much the case with this new permanent addition to the Port Askaig Islay single malt range, which has a meaty, peppery core with juicy cassis fruit and dark chocolate. Fiercely flavoursome. Alc 50.5%

Redbreast 20 Year Old Oloroso Casks

Sherried single pot-still Redbreast is invariably a marvellous thing – especially in this Whisky Exchange exclusive, where the use of third-fill ex-oloroso casks allows the perfumed distillate to shine. Tangy pear and apple, light spice, then fig and dried apricot from the wood… A drop or two of water makes it even more aromatic and soft, without sacrificing depth. Alc 60%

Rosemaund 10 Year Old The Orchard Cut

A superb example of the sometimes underrated Linkwood, bottled exclusively for The Whisky Exchange by Signatory Vintage. This is a straight-down-the-line, pitch-perfect combination of distillery character and quality American oak: wildflower meadow, lemongrass and confectioner sweetness, then pastel de nata and a gentle undertow of baking spices. In the current whisky climate, it’s also excellent value for money. Alc 58.7%

Torabhaig Taigh

This Isle of Skye distillery has become known for a series of excellent, if somewhat in-your-face, limited releases – often fiercely peaty and bottled at high strengths. This first core Torabhaig expression shows the distillery getting into its stride, bringing out some beautifully sweet orchard fruit notes alongside soft bonfire smoke and rounded toasty notes from a combination of ex-bourbon and wine casks. Alc 46%

Related articles

The whiskies – a three-strong range comprising Prakaan Select Cask, Prakaan Double Cask and Prakaan Peated Malt – are produced at the Prakaan Distillery in the north of Thailand, located in the province of Kamphaeng Phet. Kamphaeng Phet lies within Thailand’s northerly Western Forest Complex, part of a ‘vast, unspoiled’ UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The name Prakaan translates as ‘wall’ or ‘fort’ – a tribute to the remains of an ancient wall which once surrounded the province. The three whiskies have been given the collective name of ‘The Tribura Series’ (pronounced Tri-boon), a reference to the wall’s three fortified layers.

Prakaan’s three whiskies are described as ‘distinctively different in taste’, but sharing common flavours of tropical fruit and vanilla. Local spring water is used during distillation, which takes place in copper pot stills manufactured by Forsyths in Scotland.

Meanwhile, maturation – in American oak ex-Bourbon and Spanish oak ex-Sherry casks – takes place in two large underground warehouses, designed to carefully control ageing in the Thailand’s hot, humid climate.

The launch is being handled by International Beverage, the international arm of Thai Beverage Public Limited Company, with an initial focus on the UK, France and Germany during 2025, and the US and other markets thereafter. Prakaan was launched into the domestic and other Asian markets last year.

International Beverage said the aim was ‘to put Thai whisky and craftsmanship on the global spirits map’, with global sales director Veronica Amago adding: ‘This is a historic day for our business and for Thailand as we launch the country’s first-ever single malt whisky onto the world stage.’

Prakaan Select Cask (aged in ex-Bourbon casks), Prakaan Double Cask (aged in ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks) and Prakaan Peated Malt are all bottled at 43% ABV. They are priced at £65-74/€59-69/US$70-90/JPY10,600-12,200 per 70cl bottle, and will be available from specialist retailers in key global markets.

International Beverage owns a range of spirits brands, including Scotch single malts Old Pulteney, Balblair, Speyburn and anCnoc; blended Scotch Hankey Bannister, Caorunn gin and Thai rum Phraya. In 2023, the company acquired Larsen Cognac and New Zealand distillery Cardrona, which makes whisky, gin and vodka.

Related articles

• Italian whisky: A rising industry influenced by wine history
• Bowmore and Aston Martin launch £71,000 whisky
• Chichibu: A cult Japanese whisky

The New York Distilling Company (NYDC) is located in the heart of Brooklyn, between the indie boutiques of Williamsburg and the brownstone apartments of Bedford-Stuyvesant.

It’s a world away from Loch Lomond Distillery, which produces award-winning Scotch whisky amid a vast expanse of lakes and mountains in West Dunbartonshire.

However, Loch Lomond Group has been quietly expanding its empire in recent years. The firm bolstered its portfolio by purchasing Champagne Piaff in 2021, and it also owns Glen’s Vodka, one of the largest retail spirits brands in the UK.

The NYDC range will join a broad portfolio of whiskies within the group, including single malts from Loch Lomond, Glen Scotia and Littlemill.

Colin Matthews, founder and CEO of Loch Lomond Group, said: ‘This acquisition represents another milestone in the continued growth of the Loch Lomond Group.

‘We look forward to working closely with the talented and ambitious team at NYDC to invest in both the facilities and products, while supercharging its growth both domestically in the US and around the world through the existing Loch Lomond Group distribution network as well as providing our help and expertise in the continued creation of fabulous flavours.’

The Scotch whisky industry has been caught in the crossfires of US President Donald Trump’s latest tariff war. The industry lost £600m in sales during an 18-month period when Trump last imposed tariffs in 2019-20, according to the Scotch Whisky Association.

As such, it makes strategic sense for Loch Lomond Group to purchase an American whiskey producer.

The acquisition includes the 3,000 sq ft. urban distillery and visitor centre, plus NYDC’s full suite of brands. The flagship brand is Jaywalk Rye, but the company also produces Mister Katz’s Rock & Rye, Dorothy Parker gin and Perry Tot’s Navy strength gin.

‘We are excited to work with Colin and the Loch Lomond Group team to help us further grow our fantastic brands around the world,’ said NYDC co-founders Allen Katz and Tom Potter.

Related articles

• Old Rip Van Winkle sets new auction record for American whiskey
• The Glenrothes releases its oldest whisky
• Distilled: New Scotch whisky bottler launches single malt collection

American whiskey cask finishes aren’t necessarily new. Many are finished in Sherry, Port or Madeira casks, following a traditional method that Scotch producers have been using for decades.

However, more distilleries are now finishing their American whiskeys in more unconventional secondary casks to explore local finishes and create a distinctive, flavourful profile that is unique to the US.

The future of American finishing

Changes in the way distillers are using American cask finishes are on the rise – and without any intention of slowing down.

The independent bottler of American whiskey, Lost Lantern, recently highlighted today’s latest cask innovations in its Spring Collection 2025. Products include Andalusia Tequila Finished Peated Texas Single Malt Single Cask, finished in an ex-añejo Tequila cask, and the Starlight Honey Finished Indiana Straight Bourbon Single Cask, aged in a former honey cask.

‘Every one of the finishes we chose for the Spring Collection is part of what we see as the new frontier of American finishing, and was chosen specifically to help illustrate that concept,’ says Adam Polonski, Lost Lantern co-founder. ‘We wanted to give people access to these new and exciting finishes because they’re delicious and because we see these as a major part of the future of American whiskey.’

Creating a perfect balance

Finding balance in ingredients and technique is key when making American whiskey, especially if incorporating a second cask finish. Melinda Maddox, master blender at Colorado’s Old Elk Distillery, explains that the secondary cask programme is never meant to hide the original whiskey but to enhance the different grain qualities in Old Elk’s three mashbills.

‘It’s kind of like a bell curve, and you want to find that peak,’ says Maddox. ‘Each different style of cask is going to influence the whiskey uniquely, not only because of what was in the cask originally, but because each type of whiskey will mature at its own pace.’

Justin Aden, head blender of Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey, says his products materialised after playing around with a few acquired barrels. They include Diamond Peak Caribbean Rum Cask, finished in Caribbean rum casks, and Empire State Brandy Cask finished in barrels that once held New York applejack brandy.

‘But it’s not just experimenting,’ he says. ‘You have to make sure you’re professional about it, and you have a pipeline for things that work. That’s something that’s so fun about this job.’

Room for creativity

Using cask finishes is an art form and allows for plenty of creativity. To say the Connecticut-based spirits company, Veritable Distillery, has fun with its finishes is an understatement.

Finneas Pryor, vice president and distiller at Veritable, ages Ship’s Bell Bourbon – his high-barley, high-rye blended bourbon whiskey – with a selection of seven different cask types. They include ex-rye, ex-bourbon, new oak barrels, ex-Port hogsheads, ex-Madeira hogsheads, ex-Sherry hogsheads and ex-rum barrels.

‘We take this approach because it allows us to put the same spirit in a variety of casks, then track and familiarise ourselves with how the whiskey develops through its full maturation,’ says Pryor. ‘From there, we can start to course when, how, and why we may want to transfer, harvest, or blend that cask, which grants us an amazing amount of creativity.’

Local colour

Stoutridge Distillery & Winery is a husband and wife team based in Marlboro, New York, and prides itself on using local ingredients to make its small batch spirits. Owners and distillers Stephen Osborn and Kim Wagner craft a single malt from the property’s own floor malting and age it in casks they have directly on-hand, including a California Pinot Noir French oak barrel. ‘These wine barrels are very rare for single malt because they are so expensive,’ Osborn says. ‘But as a winery, we have easy access.’

Alex Clark, co-founder of Fort Hamilton Distillery in Brooklyn, is also a fan of the unconventional. He ages his rye in cask finishes that include Armagnac, maple and an iced apple cider that is exclusive to Boutique Wines, Spirits and Ciders in Fishkill, NY. Clark also works with the mead distributor Mutiny Distribution to create a mead barrel finish, honouring his late grandfather, who was a beekeeper. It offers a flavour profile he describes as: ‘Bees buzzing through a summer Meadow’.

While the mead and Armagnac finishes are available to purchase online, the others are only intended to be sold at Fort Hamilton’s tasting room. ‘These projects are designed to be creative on a smaller scale and to drive business to the distillery,’ Clark says. ‘People who are really keen or nerdy about their whiskey can come and check them out here.’

Starting new traditions

The use of Sherry, Port and Madeira cask finishes will always be prevalent when ageing American whiskey. However, more distilleries are starting to experiment with new and innovative techniques to create something even more unique that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

‘Cask finishing is a way for whiskey producers to innovate, get creative and reach new and different drinking audiences,’ says Maddox. ‘Similar to how the dining and drinking scene has been influenced by farm-to-table and the craft movement, finishing American whiskeys in unique casks allows for the opportunity to tell a new story about our whiskeys and create a shareable experience.’

US cask-finish whiskeys: Six to try

Fort Hamilton Continental Collection Armagnac Finished

Distilled from 90% rye and 10% malted barley, then aged in Armagnac barrels sourced from the South of France. A nose full of fig and plum with a palate just as fruity for a jammy finish. A stand-out for a Sazerac. Alc 59.2%

Lost Lantern Andalusia Tequila Finished Peated Texas Single Malt Single Cask

Aged in a barrel that held an Andalusia single malt smoked with Texas wood and finished in an ex-Añejo tequila cask. Rich notes of butterscotch and smoke hit the nose with a mix of creamy vanilla and grassy flavour on the tongue. A must for a Whiskey Paloma. Alc 61.2%

Old Elk Cognac Cask Finish Wheat

Aged a minimum of six years with an additional year finished in French Limousine Cognac Casks. Apricot and candied orange on the nose, followed by honeycomb and caramel with a long finish. Ideal on its own served neat. Alc 47.5%

Stoutridge Southern Ulster Single Malt

Distilled malt whiskey from Stoutridge’s own floor maltings that is aged in Pinot Noir wine barrels, then finished in ex-Laphroaig Scotch whisky barrels. Sweet vanilla and caramel aromas accompanied by a soft and smooth texture with hints of smoke. A solid bet for a highball. Alc 46%

Stranahan’s Diamond Peak Caribbean Rum Cask

Distilled with 100% malted barley, handmade in small batches at the Stranahan’s distillery, first aged in virgin American Oak Barrels, then Caribbean rum casks. Warm aromas of dried fruit and crème brûlée are followed by brown sugar and spice. Give your traditional Dark ‘N’ Stormy an upgrade. Alc 45%

Veritable Ship’s Bell Bourbon

Blended with an American single malt Whiskey that’s been aged in Connecticut for 3 years in ex-bourbon barrels from Bardstown Distillery. Notes of nutty caramel apple are led by sweet, warm oak with a smooth caramel finish. A worthy option for a New York Sour. Alc 43%

Related articles

• Old Rip Van Winkle sets new auction record for American whiskey
• Tennessee whiskey for beginners: Eight to try
• Bourbon: Beyond Kentucky and Tennessee

With wine deeply embedded in the national identity, and high-quality productions spanning anything from liqueurs to artisan beer, Italians are no strangers to the arts of fermentation and distillation. The country’s profound passion for whisky, however, has never managed to trickle down from independent bottlers and whisky clubs to master distillers.

At least not until recently as, since the pioneering launch of Alto Adige’s Puni whisky in 2015, the past few years have witnessed a true explosion of whisky projects. With 12 distilleries already having released their own malts, some industry insiders believe Italy could soon boast as many as 20 active whisky makers. And unusually for such a young industry, Italian whisky is already carving out a strong identity deeply influenced by the country’s vinous heritage.

An established distillation infrastructure

Psenner, Poli, Roner and other renowned producers of grappa (the distillate made from grape pomace) are at the forefront of Italy’s whisky revolution. These producers benefit from established distillation infrastructure and ready access to casks for maturation, giving them a significant head start in a country where whisky making is still in its infancy.

‘In Italy, the fact that most whisky producers come from the world of grappa distillation is evident in their concentration in the Alpine region,’ says Davide Terziotti, a renowned Italian whisky consultant and event organiser. ‘This is largely because starting a business in Italy is incredibly complex, as is attracting investment. Established distilleries have an advantage, they can experiment with whisky without the burden of major upfront costs and, most importantly, can start with small production volumes.’

A sense of terroir

The vinous influence on whisky making is evident in the strong focus on malts and grains with a certain sense of terroir, too. Grappa maker Villa de Varda, for example, uses barley, rye, and wheat from nearby farms; Sardinia’s Silvio Carta Winery relies exclusively on barley grown on the island; and Mulino di Sassello (a grain grower and mill in Liguria) recently launched an American-style moonshine made from its own corn and is set to release an emmer whiskey in the near future.

The Italian wine industry has also quickly become the natural source of casks for the country’s emerging whisky scene. Puni, for instance, uses ex-Marsala and ex-Pinot Grigio casks; and Nino Mason, third-generation winemaker at Silvio Carta, matures whisky in centuries-old chestnut barrels that once held his own Vernaccia di Oristano. ‘This process gives our whisky a truly unique identity, with aromas and nuances that cannot be found in any other spirit,’ he says.

Meanwhile, Tuscany’s Winestillery matures all its whiskies in SuperTuscan and Vin Santo barrels sourced from its sister winery Chioccioli Altadonna, in the heart of the Chianti Classico. ‘I’ve spoken with other Italian distillers to understand their perspectives, and despite our differences, there’s a shared foundation rooted in being Italian,’ explains Winestillery’s head distiller, Enrico Chioccioli Altadonna. ‘Italy is a gastronomic powerhouse and we have a strong wine heritage. I think that tapping into that heritage will certainly play a role for most of us going forward.’

Taking the local cask element one step further, some producers treat wood as a proper ingredient, relying on casks made from unusual, locally sourced wood types. Roner’s whiskies, for instance, are matured in oak, cherry, and larch from the nearby forests, while Villa de Varda offers an expression aged in spruce from the surrounding Dolomites.

‘Nearly all distillers are being quite forward-thinking, realising that competing in the field of Scotch whisky and single malts may be very challenging due to prejudices over newcomers to the scene,’ Terziotti points out. ‘That is why many focus on highlighting their Italian identity through maturation on Italian casks and focusing on our tradition of winemaking.’

Leading Prosecco and grappa producer Bottega has also begun distilling whisky following a confidently substantial £2.5m investment, using Italian malts and wine casks for maturation. Bottega’s involvement is set to give a strong boost to the burgeoning Italian whisky scene, and shows how the country’s rich wine culture is already defining its identity.

Related articles

• European rye whisky producers protest trade agreement
• Understanding organic whisky
• Oldest-ever Irish whiskey is released

There was a ‘sharp correction’ in the secondary market for single malt Scotch whisky from October last year to January 2025, said Noble & Co.

Its whisky intelligence reports offer one barometer of the market and are mostly based on UK auction sales, alongside some data from auctions in other key hubs, such as Hong Kong.

Its latest report found total transaction value for single malt Scotch whisky fell by ‘a staggering 53%’ in the four months to 31 January 2025, versus the same period of the previous year.

Average bottle prices fell, and volume sales also dropped by 21% year-on-year, it said. High-end collectors have retreated from the scene, at least temporarily.

Its report said, ‘A continued retreat from high-value sales – particularly bottles over £10,000 – reveals a shift in collector behaviour, with top-end buyers and owners either stepping back or withholding stock, leading to a significant contraction in the premium segment. 

‘The result has been a reshaping of the market dynamic, with mid-tier and lower-value whiskies now dominating the share of sales by both volume and value.’ 

Recovery on the cards?

Prices recovered slightly in January, but this is traditionally a quiet month for sales and so it’s too soon to talk of a recovery, said Noble & Co. 

Other ‘small signs of market recalibration’ during the reporting period included fewer lots going unsold in the auction room.

‘This is a positive for the market as it suggests the supply and demand imbalance is getting tighter and prices may be falling to levels that result in buyers being drawn back in,’ said Noble & Co’s report.

Higher interest rates and global economic uncertainty have created a more muted atmosphere across luxury collectibles in general, noted the group – a trend also highlighted recently by global consultancy group Knight Frank in its 2025 wealth report. 

Whisky has still completely changed its market context in the past decade, with rare bottles becoming increasingly desirable for collectors worldwide.

Knight Frank’s whisky index, compiled by the Rare Whisky 101 group, dropped 9% in value in 2024, yet it was still up by 192% over 10 years. It outpaced other collectibles, from art to handbags and luxury watches.

The Macallan leads the way 

In the single malt Scotch auction world, Noble & Co’s data showed The Macallan accounted for nearly £30m of single malt Scotch transaction value registered by Noble & Co in the two years to 31 January 2025. 

The Macallan’s relative lead over other brands shrank slightly in this time, but its nearest challenger was Springbank, accounting for a little more than £5m.  

Rare Japanese whiskies and those from the US have also been attracting greater collector interest in recent years.

Despite a more sedate market, individual bottles can still command big sums. A limited-edition bottle of Old Rip Van Winkle bourbon fetched a record $125,000 (£96,450) at a high-profile Sotheby’s auction in March.

This month, Sotheby’s will auction a 54-year-old Bowmore whisky in a decanter designed by Aston Martin. Bidding on ‘Bowmore ARC-54: Iridos Edition’ will run from 15 to 29 May, with an estimate of £140,000 – £220,000 ($180,000 – $300,000).

Related articles

• Bowmore and Aston Martin launch £71,000 whisky
• European rye whisky producers protest trade agreement 
• Distilled: New Scotch whisky bottler launches single malt collection

Bourbon lovers in the UK can now get their hands on exclusive single barrels, as Sazerac Company has expanded its Sazerac Barrel Select (SBS) programme outside the US for the first time. SBS is a membership-based initiative that invites individuals and small groups to choose and purchase their own single barrel of whiskey. A number of Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon barrels have been reserved for the UK, in addition to the existing allocation for the US, where 170,000 people are signed up. Barrels will be available on a first-come, first-served basis until 12pm on 11 June. Buyers can either travel to the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky to select their barrel and enjoy a private tour and tasting (with seven guests), or choose their barrel via samples at the Buffalo Trace Distillery London’s private tasting room. Cost varies depending on the price per bottle and the yield; a barrel typically yields about 250 bottles at an average price of £34 per bottle, for a total cost of £8,500.

Buffalo Trace Distillery London is also offering a bespoke tasting experience with three single-barrel bourbons; guests can take home one personalised bottle of their favourite (£60 per person). ‘We are thrilled to introduce the Sazerac Barrel Select programme to the UK, offering a special opportunity to engage with one of our most requested programmes, which has captivated fans in the US for years,’ said Diego Bianchi, general manager of SBS at Sazerac. ‘The UK has an incredibly discerning appreciation for quality whiskey and we hope that they will be just as excited as we are to share in this experience.’

Spirited words

‘The whole world is three drinks behind. If everyone in the world would take three drinks, we would have no trouble’

Humphrey Bogart

Meet the bartender

Manon Kapfer

Avra, Athens

How did you get into drinks?

‘I grew up in Strasbourg, France, surrounded by food and hospitality. My dad ran a traditional bistro, so I was fascinated by how flavours could tell a story and bring people together. That passion led me to study hospitality and bartending. I moved to London, working at some incredible bars, such as Bar Termini, The Zetter Townhouse and The Connaught Bar. Then, in 2022, I joined Avra at Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens as bar manager.’

What’s your style?

‘For me, cocktails are more than just drinks – they’re experiences. I like to seek out inspiration from nature and seasonality, as well as the way perfumers build aromas. I like to explore ingredients fully, using everything from root to leaf, peel to seed. I want to ensure that every cocktail tells a story about where it comes from.’

What’s new at Avra?

‘We recently launched the third iteration of our cocktail menu, SOS [Seasonal-Original-Sustainable]. Each year, we pick four locally sourced ingredients native to the Greek landscape and curate our drinks around them. The drinks evolve as the seasons change, starting with spring through to winter. This year we’re exploring orange, pine, pear and dairy, with the spring menu highlighting the verdant, refreshing notes of these ingredients.’

Interview by Clinton Caywood

Related articles

• Distilled: New Scotch whisky bottler launches single malt collection
• Distilled: Cox’s Original launches mixer kit
• Distilled: A new distillery on the Isle of Barra

Midleton Very Rare has released the oldest Irish whiskey ever bottled. The Silent Distillery Collection Chapter Six is a 50-year-old single pot still whiskey.

The launch comes just weeks after Bushmills unveiled the oldest Irish single malt to date: a 46-year-old that set a new benchmark for Irish single malt.

Released on 11 April, the new ultra-rare expression concludes a landmark series from Midleton Very Rare that began in 2020.

Chapter Six marks the final drops of spirit from the historic Old Midleton Distillery, which closed its doors in 1975. Fewer than 250 bottles have been released.

Priced at £55,000 (€60,000/US$60,000), it is not only the most mature Midleton expression ever released, but a significant milestone in Irish whiskey history.

Chapter Six was distilled in 1973 by Midleton’s Master Distiller Emeritus Max Crockett, in what was then the world’s largest pot stills – which are still on display at the distillery today.

It has been nurtured over five decades by a succession of Master Distillers: Barry Crockett, Brian Nation and current Master Distiller Kevin O’Gorman.

‘The whiskey comes from a parcel of casks that were set aside by Max Crocket – Barry’s dad – in 1973 and 1974, as he transitioned from Old Midleton distillery, to the new site,’ said O’Gorman.

‘When I joined in 1998, he made me aware of these casks stored in dunnage warehouses A2 and A3. The team who came over from the old distillery always held them in high regard and were very proud of them. They kept a keen eye on them.’

Matured predominantly in refill American oak barrels – ideal for long-term ageing – the spirit was later transferred to a bespoke marrying cask, crafted by fifth-generation Master Cooper Ger Buckley.

Uniquely, the final cask was constructed from staves used in the previous five chapters of the collection, originally made by Buckley’s father.

Tasting notes reveal a whiskey of unexpected vibrancy for its age. The nose opens with rich aromas of plums, figs, dates, and blackcurrant, underpinned by bergamot and rhubarb.

The palate is full and oily, delivering notes of candied ginger, orange bitters, and strawberry, with a fresh citrus lift. The finish is long and elegant, lingering with toasted marshmallow and dark chocolate.

Chapter Six is presented in a mouth-blown Waterford crystal decanter, housed in a bespoke cabinet designed by master craftsman John Galvin.

The cabinet incorporates six rare types of wood – one from each chapter. The final wood is a striking blue bird’s eye maple, named for its pattern of tiny swirling eyes. The cabinet is completed with 18 carat gold-plated detailing, reclaimed Irish oak and a cream leather interior.

‘This final chapter really is a celebration of the people and place that made it, across a number of generations,’ said O’Gorman. ‘It’s the very last whiskey we have from Old Midleton. When it is gone, it really is gone.’

With this release, Irish Distillers-owned Midleton not only concludes its Silent Distillery Collection but also commemorates 200 years of distilling heritage at its whiskey-campus, in 2025.

Midleton Very Rare Silent Distillery Collection Chapter Six is available via the Midleton Distillery Collection and select specialist retailers in Ireland, the UK and the US.

Related articles

• Distilling Ireland – Eight whiskies to discover
• Bowmore and Aston Martin launch £71,000 whisky
• A world of whisky: Understanding whisky styles

Tailor-made whisky

A new Scotch whisky bottler has released its debut single malt collection. Based in Leith, Tailored Spirits Co launched last year. Its inaugural range, the Experimental Series, is made up of three limited-edition Highland bottlings of one-off micro-batch experiments.

Experiment 1 Croftengea Loch Lomond 7 Year Old is a heavily peated malt matured in a first-fill 35L oloroso Sherry American oak ‘bloodtub’ (Alcohol 58.8%, £59.50/50cl, 52 bottles produced). It’s intense and layered with notes of roasted nuts and dried fruit.

Experiment 2 Fettercairn 13 Year Old is matured in neutral oak then re-racked into a first-fill Ribera del Duero barrique to accentuate the whisky’s fruity character (Alc 54.1%, £74.50/50cl, 84 bottles). It’s light and rounded with lovely malted biscuit notes.

Experiment 3 Ardmore 8 Year Old is a lightly peated malt matured first in ex-bourbon casks, then in ex-Cognac barriques (Alc 60.4%, £64.50/50cl, 60 bottles). A whisper of bonfire smoke on the nose becomes more dominant on the palate.

‘As three rather keen whisky folk, we wanted to produce a series of drams that celebrate the journey and exploration we go on as whisky drinkers. The discovery of flavour and the surprises that lay in single-cask whisky with interesting maturations is what whisky is all about for us,’ says co-founder Adam Harding. ‘The first three drams really set out the stall for the series, highlighting just how much influence the right wood can have on a maturing whisky.’

Spirited words

‘Love makes the world go round? Not at all. Whisky makes it go round twice as fast’

Compton Mackenzie, author of Whisky Galore

What to drink now… Piccolina

Swift, London

London’s award-winning Swift was opened in Soho in 2016 by Mia Johansson and Bobby Hiddleston. The group now includes two more venues that echo the original concept of a groundfloor cocktail bar and basement speakeasy. The Piccolina was created by Johansson, who says: ‘This is a delicious and nuanced take on a rich and stirred-down, classic-style cocktail. Using fortified wines rather than spirits brings complexity to the drink, thanks to the wines’ interaction with both yeast and oak during fermentation and ageing. The cocktail retains a generous body and silky mouthfeel due to residual sugars in the wines and the addition of the crème de figue liqueur. A finishing few dashes of Angostura lend the balancing bitter note, resulting in a sophisticated take on a lower-alcohol serve.’

Ingredients: 60ml Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port, 30ml Harveys Amontillado, 15ml Briottet Crème de Figue, 4 drops Angostura aromatic bitters

Glass: Coupe

Garnish: Olive

Method: Add all of the ingredients to a generous mixing glass, fill to the brim with ice and stir for a few seconds. Refill to the brim with ice and stir for 10-20 seconds, then strain into a chilled coupe and garnish with a single olive in the glass.

Related articles

• Distilled: Cox’s Original launches mixer kit
• Distilled: A new distillery on the Isle of Barra
• Distilled: A new range of cocktail seasonings from Mr Lyan

Scandinavian rye whisky distillers are up in arms over the decision this year by local authorities to enforce a 2004 European Union trade agreement with Canada. The agreement reserves the term ‘rye whisky’ for Canadian and US produce.

Despite the agreement being signed over 20 years ago, the legislation had been neglected until 2024, when the Polish Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development, German Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture and the Czech Agriculture and Food Inspection Authority wrote to the European Commission requesting clarification.

In July 2024 they received confirmation from Pierre Bascou, director for sustainability and income support, DG Agriculture and Rural Development, that stated: ‘“Rye Whisky” is indeed a term protected under the 2004 Agreement between the European Community and Canada on trade in wines and spirit drinks.’

Following this communication, the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry in Finland and the Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Fisheries of Denmark began enforcing this rule from January of this year.

‘If we continue with making new releases of our current packaging we would be required to take it back from shelves,’ said Alex Munch, co-founder of Stauning Whisky in Denmark.

The story has come to light after Kyrö Distillery Company in Finland announced new packaging, with an explanation of why it had made the change. According to co-founder Mikko Koskinen, the distillery will have to relabel its 100% malted rye whisky as ‘whisky made from rye’. The words whisky and rye cannot be on the same line.

Stauning uses malted barley in its rye, so it will have to label the spirit as ‘whisky made of rye and barley’ for the EU market.

Interestingly there is no specific definition for Canadian rye whisky. Technically it doesn’t have to contain any rye at all, and most is made with corn.

There are rye whisky producers all over Europe, most notably in the Netherlands, Germany and France. Austrian producer J Haider has been making its Waldviertler rye since 1995 – long before the Canadian treaty was being drafted. European producers are now campaigning to have the law changed.

What does this mean for British rye producers such as InchDairnie Distillery in Scotland or Fielden in England, which export to the EU?

‘There is no “Scotch Rye” category so any decision by the EU on this does not affect us,’ said a spokesman for the Scotch Whisky Association.

InchDairnie, however, does use the term ‘rye whisky’ in addition to the official ‘single grain Scotch whisky’ on its labels. Founder Ian Palmer said: ‘I think changing labels is an overreaction. If the agreement is being correctly interpreted, then some people have been sleeping at the wheel to allow this to go through unnoticed.’

Related articles

• Trump’s US tariffs may raise prices, warns EU wine body
• Discover Nordic whiskies
• American rye whiskey: A beginner’s guide and seven to try

Just 130 decanters of Bowmore ARC-54 will be available on a global basis, and the limited-edition whisky will carry a £71,000 price tag.

This is the final release in a high-profile collaboration between the Islay distillery and the luxury British sports car manufacturer.

Each handblown decanter draws inspiration from the aerodynamic exterior of the Aston Martin Valkyrie hypercar. For any petrolheads, that includes the full-length venturi tunnels, which contribute to around 1,100kg of downforce.

The single malt whisky was distilled in November 1968. Inspired by the so-called ‘golden ratio’, 61.8% of the whisky was second fill European oak sherry butt and 38.2% was aged in a third fill American oak hogshead. The two parts then united for 15 months in a single cask.

Dr Calum Fraser, chief blender at Bowmore, said: ‘A Bowmore as exquisite and complex as this 54-year-old is a testament to the skills of our distillery team, but also the very embodiment of what can be achieved simply by slowing down, standing still and letting things unfold as they are destined to.

‘This rare creation truly demonstrates just how Bowmore ages exceptionally over time, with unmatched precision and clarity. As guardians of this spirit, we strive to harness the power of the past in every drop that we create – whilst constantly reimagining Bowmore for the next generation that will experience our whiskies.’

Bowmore ARC-54 is available at selected stockists. It marks the culmination of an intriguing partnership between Bowmore and Aston Martin, which began in 2019.

They have teamed up for a series of limited-edition bottlings and marketing events, designed to boost both brands and open up new markets.

In 2023, a bottle of Bowmore ARC-52 fetched £187,500 at auction. The proceeds will go towards a dedicated fund designed to support the community of Islay.

Related articles

• The Glenrothes releases its oldest whisky
• Old Rip Van Winkle sets new auction record for American whiskey
• Bushmills releases the oldest Irish single malt to date

Speyside producer The Glenrothes has unveiled The 51, its oldest-ever release since the distillery was founded in 1879.

A blend of two casks, aged for 51 years, the release is limited to just 100 bottles globally, priced at £37,000 ($46,500).

Unusually however, buyers will not be able to see the bottle they are purchasing. Each one is encased in a solid, sustainably sourced Jesmonite column.

This means The 51 is the first whisky in the world that can only be accessed by destroying its packaging. Buyers will have to smash the outer casing with a hammer provided, to access the bottle inside.

Once the whisky has been retrieved, the smashed fragments of the column can be sent to a local kintsugi artist.

Kintsugi – literally translated as ‘golden repair’ – is the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with urushi lacquer dusted with powdered gold, silver, or platinum.

This repair service, which is included in the purchase price, will create a bespoke and lasting piece of art unique to each buyer. ‘Jesmonite was chosen for the outer casing as it breaks cleanly,’ explained Wendy Espie, global NPD manager at The Glenrothes.

‘Every one will break differently, so everyone will have a unique experience,’ she added.

The whisky itself has been blended from two casks chosen by Laura Rampling, The Glenrothes Master Whisky Maker (above). One remnant cask from a previous vatting provides richness and depth, while the other single cask offers balancing lightness, with what Rampling describes as ‘extremely ethereal and perfumed’ notes.

‘The 51 is a testament to those rare moments in whisky making when patience, nature and craft align perfectly. This whisky defies expectations – elegant yet powerful, it offers a singular experience for those who truly understand and appreciate rarity,’ she said.

Showing all the hallmarks of The Glenrothes’ signature softness, The 51 is an elegant dram boasting florist shop aromas, layered over notes of tonka bean, figs and nuts, with exotic hints of sandalwood and bergamot.

Tasting surprisingly vibrant and sprightly for a whisky of this age, the expressive palate unfurls with layers of flavour: tropical fruit, floral notes, blanched almonds, macadamia, lemon citrus and vanilla oak. Exceptionally smooth, lithe and fresh, with an impressively long finish.

Commenting on this new release, Jonny Fowle, global head of whisky at Sotheby’s, said: ‘In the last few years, the whisky market has overwhelmed collectors with ultra-premium whiskies at extremely high price points, making collectors less likely to open their bottles.

‘Collectors are looking to be incentivised to drink their whiskies, and herein lies a great new approach to this very problem. The 51 is for the true lovers of whisky; those who interact, drink, and enjoy Scotch.’

The 51 will be available at select whisky specialists such as Sotheby’s, boutique whisky shops and luxury retailers including Harrods.

Related articles

• Highland Park unveils oldest expression to date
• Exploring Whisky Series: Inside Speyside
• Bushmills releases the oldest Irish single malt to date

The Stitzel-Weller distillery created the Van Winkle Selection for the 2007 Kentucky Bourbon Festival.

Sotheby’s assigned this ultra-rare bottle a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000, but it easily exceeded expectations at the auction.

The Van Winkle Selection ended up becoming the most valuable single bottle of post-prohibition American whiskey ever sold at auction.

It broke the previous record of $107,715, which was set by Van Winkle 18-year-old bourbon for Binny’s, a price that included buyer’s premium and tax.

Zev Glesta, whiskey specialist at Sotheby’s, said: ‘This sale marks a defining moment in the history of American whiskey, underscoring the legendary status of Van Winkle bottlings and the continued strength of the fine and rare whiskey market.

‘Bringing such a remarkable piece of American whiskey history to auction is a testament to the growing appreciation for the craft and heritage of American distilling.’

The limited-edition bourbon was bottled at full strength under the supervision of Julian Van Winkle III, the third-generation distiller.

He signed the glass bottle, which was designed by his son, Preston Van Winkle, and dated it 9-15-07. That signature added to the bottle’s exceptional rarity and desirability, according to Sotheby’s.

With a 62.8% abv, this bottle of Old Rip Winkle is one of the highest-proof Van Winkle releases ever produced.

Sotheby’s said that the sale demonstrates the increasing global demand for American whiskey and the unparalleled prestige of the Van Winkle name in the world of fine spirits.

Julian ‘Pappy’ Van Winkle Sr. established the business after getting into the bourbon industry back in 1893. His son, Julian Van Winkle Jr., reintroduced the Old Rip Van Winkle brand.

He died in 1981, and Julian Van Winkle III – Pappy’s grandson – took over the Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery. Since 2002, the Van Winkle brands have been distilled at the Buffalo Trace Distillery, via a joint venture with the Sazerac Company.

Related articles

• EU to delay tariffs on US whiskies to buy time
• Bourbon: Beyond Kentucky and Tennessee
• Legendary bottles of American whiskey exceed expectations at Sotheby’s auction

A first round of extra tariffs on US goods coming into the European Union, which was set to include a 50% levy on American whiskies, may be put back for around two weeks until mid-April, said European trade commissioner Maroš Šefčovič.

EU counter-measures targeting ‘boats to bourbon to motorbikes’ were announced after the US said it would impose tariffs on aluminium and steel imports.

But Šefčovič said a delay would give the European Commission more time to consult member states on which US products to target, and provide ‘extra time for negotiations with our American partners’.

The news was immediately welcomed by the US Distilled Spirits Council. Chris Swonger, CEO and president, said, ‘This is a very positive development and gives US distillers a glimmer of hope that a devastating 50% tariff on American whiskey can be averted.’

It may also have consequences for wine consumers and producers. US president Donald Trump singled out the proposed whisk(e)y tariff plans when he recently threatened to impose a 200% tariff on all imports of EU wines and spirits, from Champagne and Barolo to Cognac.

Some Italian wine shipments destined for export were already being cancelled, reported trade body Unione Italiana Vini on 17 March.

French prime minister François Bayrou recently appeared to criticise the inclusion of Kentucky bourbon on the list of targets for EU counter-measures, as reported by Reuters news agency.

The US is the biggest export market by value for French wines and spirits producers, with shipments valued at €3.8bn in 2024, according to France’s wine and spirits export federation (FEVS). 

There have been suggestions, including from president Trump, that some US wine businesses might benefit from tariffs on European wines, but several trade groups on both sides of the Atlantic have expressed concerns.

Francis Creighton, president and CEO of the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America, warned that 200% tariffs would hurt the industry and ‘directly raise prices for American consumers’.

Anti-tariff lobby group the US Wine Trade Alliance (USWTA) warned earlier this week that it was concerned the US could launch tariffs against EU wines as soon as 2 April, although that was before the European Commission signalled it might delay its counter-measures.

In a note to members, cited by the Wine Industry Advisor publication, the USWTA also warned there was no guarantee of an exemption for wines already being transported to the US at the time of any tariff being imposed. 

The group campaigned against 25% tariffs on various EU wines, from Bordeaux to Rioja, during president Trump’s first administration. It said it was continuing to speak to officials and members of US Congress. 

Related articles

• US tariffs may wipe €1bn off Italian wine exports
• China removes punitive tariffs on Australian wine
• Trump returns: The impact on the US wine industry

Kentucky and Tennessee may be home to American whiskey, but there is no rule saying that these are the only areas allowed to produce this popular spirit.

Regulations from The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) state that to qualify as a bourbon, a spirit has to be made in the US, have a mash bill of at least 51% corn, be bottled at 80 proof (40% abv) or higher and be aged in a new American white oak barrels.

Bourbon cannot be distilled at more than 160 proof (80% abv) nor barreled at more than 125 proof (62.5% abv).

American whiskeys that are made outside Kentucky and Tennessee have similar characteristics that bourbon drinkers can appreciate: the sweet and smooth taste with heavy notes of vanilla and oak. But different approaches and varied climates help to signify where they come from.

Every place tells a story

Climate and fluctuating temperatures impact how the oak influences whiskey. For example, Blackland Distillery in Fort Worth, Texas grapples with intense summer heat. This makes it a challenge not to over-age its bourbons – but is worth it in taste.

‘The high heat helps give those oak flavours extracted from the wood,’ says Kelly Middleton, Blackland’s bar and tasting room manager. ‘Everything is bigger in Texas, including toasty, smoky, bold body and finish of bourbons.’

High desert conditions in Nevada influence the grains that Minden Mill Distilling uses to make its bourbon, giving it a fresh, original flavour. ‘The whiskey has a unique, savoury flavour profile,’ says Joe O’Sullivan, Master Distiller at Milden Mill. ‘It’s much different than the sweetness typically associated with traditional bourbons from Kentucky.’

Home-grown flavours

The variable mash bill used to make bourbons will also differ within each state. Many smaller distilleries turn to local farmers to source their grains for a range of flavours reminiscent of the area.

Wyoming Whiskey, located in the small town of Kirby, works with local farmers to select strains of non-GMO corn, winter wheat, barley, and winter rye. ‘The farmers cultivate a corn strain that matures in 91 days,’ says Brendan Cook, Master Blender at Wyoming Whiskey. ‘It’s ideal for Wyoming’s high elevation and short growing season.’

Widow Jane, an urban distillery in Brooklyn, New York, also values its in-state resources. ‘We have worked with upstate farmers to develop our own corn varietal that’s featured in our Baby Jane Bourbon, providing us with a distinctly flavourful corn to work with,’ says Sienna Jevremov, head distiller and blender at Widow Jane. ‘All our whiskey is proofed with a mineral-rich water that we source from the old Rosendale mines in upstate New York, about 160km north of the distillery.’

Housed in Florida’s oldest ice plant, St Augustine Distillery uses local corn and wheat to create its Florida Straight Bourbon, with minimal filtration for its signature smooth and round finish.

Meanwhile Iowa’s first licensed distillery, Cedar Ridge, makes its bourbon using only 100% Iowa corn and fermenting off-grain. Murphy Quint, director of operations and Master Distiller, explains: ‘Fermenting off-grain is very common in single malt production. Not so much in bourbon, so it gives us a cleaner distillate and a very approachable whiskey.’

It’s all in the making

While individual states need to follow the standard requirements for bourbon-making, they can still use various methods to make the result more distinct.

For example Vermont’s WhistlePig has a ‘snout-to-tail’ bourbon process featuring two toasted barrel heads. ‘The “snout” end has a Vermont oak medium toast and the “tail” end has a Vermont oak smoked maple wood toast,’ says Meghan Ireland, chief blender at WhistlePig. ‘The barrel is flipped 180 degrees during the final stage of maturation, with each barrel head’s unique toasted flavours added to a whiskey that’s already rich with a decade of age.’

North Carolina’s first farm distillery since prohibition, Broadslab Distillery, has a ‘flue-cured’ ageing process; the term refers to a type of curing barn used to dry tobacco leaves. Master Distiller Jeremy Norris explains that this helps to honour the area’s ‘rich history of tobacco farming and whiskey production’. The bourbon is placed in American white oak barrels and stored in the rickhouse on the farm before being moved to a neighbouring tobacco barn during the harvest season, utilising the intense heat to accelerate the ageing process.

Rather than opting for continuous column distillation, J Rieger & Co in Kansas City prefers a combination of column and pot stills. ‘We use our column still as essentially a stripping run,’ says Master Distiller Nathan Perry. ‘Then instead of running that through a doubler as is the industry standard, we collect it all and run a separate pot distillation. This allows us the control we loved about pot distillation, while adding volume associated with continuous distillation.’

New age of bourbon

Kentucky and Tennessee will always be a pillar of American whiskey. Nonetheless other states dedicated to the craft have much to offer bourbon drinkers everywhere.

‘Consumers should be adventurous and explore new flavours from distilleries in the West, South, or even their local area,’ advises O’Sullivan of Milden Mill. ‘It’s a great time to discover the future of bourbon.’

American bourbons: six to try

Baby Jane Bourbon

Made by Widow Jane Distillery, with unique heirloom corn and proofed with mineral water sourced from local mines. Creamy aromas of honeycomb and toffee, with a taste of fig and caramel rounding off, plus hints of stone fruit and chocolate. An ideal option for a Paper Plane. $59.99/75cl, Seelbachs. Alcohol 45.5% 

Broadslab Flue-Cured Single Barrel Bourbon

Made with farm-grown grains cultivated at Broadslab Distillery with a unique ‘flue-cured’ ageing process that sees a second period of ageing in a tobacco curing barn. Notes of dark chocolate and tobacco guide to tastes of oak and coffee that finish with a touch of oak. A fine selection for a Boulevardier. $64.95/75cl, Broadslab Distillery. Alc 46.5%

Cedar Ridge Double Barrel Bourbon

Made with Iowa-grown corn, Cedar Ridge’s Straight Bourbon Whiskey is finished in a second new American oak cask after ageing to produce this double-barrel expression. Aromas of apricot and caramel are followed by cinnamon and oak with a smooth finish. Well-suited for a Highball. $49.99/75cl, Big Thirst. Alc 52.50%

St Augustine Distillery Florida Straight Bourbon

Made with Florida-grown corn and wheat, St Augustine Distillery employs as little filtration as possible. Warm aromas of vanilla and leather lead a palate of tobacco and baking spices, with a lingering finish. A worthy choice for an Old Fashioned. $50/75cl, Big Thirst. Alc 44%

Minden Mill Nevada Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Made with earth tone heirloom corn and aged for four years in new charred American and French oak. Toasted oak and vanilla hits the nose, with molasses and spice on the tongue, plus a sweet finish. A perfect pick for a Manhattan. $44.99/75cl, Minden Mill Distilling. Alc 47%

Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey

Made with non-GMO corn at Wyoming Whiskey, using pure local limestone water during production stages. Light on the nose with floral hints combined with vanilla bean and a mouthful of brown butter that rounds out with a finish full of spice thick on the tongue. Try it in a well-made Sour. $43.99/75cl, Caskers. Alc 44%

Related articles:

Best bourbon cocktails for summer

Tennessee whiskey for beginners: Eight to try

A world of whisky: Understanding whisky styles

Bushmills has unveiled a rare bottling that’s the oldest Irish single malt ever released. Secrets of The River Bush is a 46-year-old whiskey, matured in Sherry casks. Only 300 individually numbered bottles have been produced.

Secrets of The River Bush is drawn from Bushmills’ single malt reserves, dating back to 1978. It has been matured in oloroso Sherry casks from the Antonio Páez Lobato cooperage in Jerez, Spain.

The Irish whiskey takes its name from the River Bush, which has been used as a water source by the distillery in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, since it was granted a licence to distill in 1608. The river flows over a bed of black basalt – the rock that’s synonymous with the iconic Giant’s Causeway.

‘Without the river there would be no Bushmills Irish Whiskey. The two are inextricably linked,’ said Alex Thomas, Bushmills Master Blender.

‘This sublime single malt is a beautiful celebration of Bushmills, its unique water source and the geography and geology of our local area,’ added Thomas. ‘It captures the heart and soul of our story since 1608 and should be savoured on very special occasions.’

A deep mahogany colour, Secrets of The River Bush (Alc 46.3%) is intensely aromatic with rich and harmonious notes of moist Christmas pudding fruits, plums, ripe stone fruit, black treacle and dark spices.

Darkly delicious, the complex palate unfolds with notes of plump sultanas and raisins, black cherry and baked plum, gentle toasty oak, toffee, roasted coffee beans, clove and black pepper, with a smooth, lingering finish that’s laced with mellow spice.

‘This remarkable liquid just shows you what time can do. I reflect on the team who laid it to rest in our warehouses 46 years ago,’ continued Thomas. ‘We couldn’t do what we do without those guys and their legacy is everything to this single malt. The fact I too have the privilege to leave something for the next generation is just so special.’

Each numbered bottle of Secrets of The River Bush is presented in a striking handcrafted hexagonal walnut case, decorated with topographical contours. The gold engraving at the centre of the box represents the journey of the River Bush to the Old Bushmills Distillery. They will retail globally for $12,500.

Related articles

• Distilling Ireland: eight whiskies to discover
• Highland Park unveils oldest expression to date
• Decanter Collector’s Guide: Whisky

Work begins on Scotland’s most westerly distillery

Construction has begun on a new distillery in Castlebay on the Isle of Barra in the Outer Hebrides. The £12m project will be Scotland’s most westerly distillery and is scheduled to open in October 2026. Husband and wife team Michael and Katie Morrison founded The Isle of Barra Distillers Co in 2017 and began planning their new distillery in 2021.

‘My wife and I are Isle of Barra born and bred. When we moved back to the island after a few years on the mainland, we knew we wanted to create opportunities for more families to call Barra home and make sure there could be a future on the island for generations to come,’ said Michael. ‘Building our distillery is a transformative step for our island community.’

The distillery will bring new jobs to the island and support local tourism with a visitor centre, shop and cafe, while also contributing to economic growth and community development. To celebrate the start of construction, the Morrisons have launched two whiskies – Blended Malt and 10 Year Old Blended Malt – alongside their existing range, which includes Hebridean Vodka and Atlantic Gin. Limited to 986 bottles, the Blended Malt (Alc 46%) is layered with vanilla, toffee, dry baking spices, hay and orange chocolate, with a long, spicy, ginger and white pepper finish. £45/70cl Isle of Barra Distillers

Spirited words

‘A perfect Martini should be made by filling a glass with gin and waving it in the general direction of Italy’

Noel Coward

What to drink now… Fine à L’Eau

Bar Nouveau, Paris

@bar_nouveau_

Published this month, Tyler Zielinski’s new book Tiny Cocktails (£16.99 Clarkson Potter) showcases the art of making miniature drinks to help you create cocktail flights at home. This recipe is from the bijou Bar Nouveau in Paris. Zielinski writes: ‘Everything Remy Savage touches turns to (liquid) gold. As one of the world’s leading voices on vacuum distillation in bars, he… also appreciates the nuances of a simple serve, crafted with exceptional ingredients. Take the Fine à L’Eau, a straightforward tiny Cognac highball… Savage says [it] is “probably my favorite drink of all time”… It’s a modern version of the classic French Cognac highball. And once batched together, the cocktail has a shelf life of up to a year. It’s an expression of simplicity and provenance, and sometimes those characteristics make the best cocktails.’

Ingredients: 22.5ml Cognac, 15ml verjus, 15ml simple syrup, 30ml soda water

Glass: Small wine glass

Garnish: None

Method: Chill the Cognac in the freezer and the rest of the ingredients in the refrigerator for at least one hour beforehand. Combine the Cognac, verjus and simple syrup in a chilled lowball or tiny wine glass. Add the soda water and enjoy.

Related articles

• Distilled: A new range of cocktail seasonings from Mr Lyan
• Distilled – Hennessy teams up with basketball star LeBron James
• Distilled – Telling the story of gin

A dram of Scotch whisky may be the traditional choice for a Burns supper, but there are plenty of options for pairing wines with haggis, the meal’s focal point.

If choosing wines to match with haggis, look to fruit-driven, medium-bodied red wines, or white wines that have refreshing acidity but also enough weight to stand up to the fattiness and flavours.

Food and wine pairing is highly subjective, though, and experimenting can be part of the fun.

Six wine styles to drink with haggis on Burns Night 2025

• Syrah / Shiraz
• Shiraz-Grenache blends
• Riesling
• Grenache Blanc
• Pinot Noir
• Gamay 

Haggis on Burns Night

It’s common for dinner guests to stand as the haggis is carried into the room on a silver platter, accompanied by a piper, the chef and the person who will recite Robert Burns’ poem, ‘Address to a Haggis’.

Made well, and from a quality source, haggis offers a rich combination of meaty flavours with peppery and herby characters, as well as bit of spice. If you’re unsure about where to find it, try your local butcher.

That said, US food safety officials banned haggis imports in 1971 over the traditional inclusion of sheep’s lung.

Haggis maker Macsween of Edinburgh has been working to slightly adapt the recipe to create a ‘compliant version’ for the US, reported the UK’s Telegraph newspaper this week. It’s still in the testing phase, though.

It’s also possible to find or make vegetarian versions of haggis.

Pairing red wine with haggis

Fruit-driven red wines with good acidity are likely to be a better bet with haggis than those with heavily pronounced tannins or oak, which could overpower the flavours of the dish.

‘I’m always surprised at how peppery haggis is – not spicy, but peppery,’ said Tina Gellie, Decanter’s head of content.

‘And of course it is also dense, rich and meaty. As most people do on Burns Night, I have always paired my haggis, neeps and tatties with whisk(e)y, but if I were to choose a wine, I’d probably go for a juicy, fruit-driven red, where the tannins wouldn’t compete too much.’

Gellie suggested ‘maybe a cru Beaujolais, a Carignan or a Shiraz-Grenache blend’.

Arnaud Demas, group general manager at Galvin Restaurants in London, including Michelin-starred Galvin La Chapelle, told Decanter, ‘For a rustic dish like haggis, we recommend pairing it with a Syrah or Pinot Noir—wines that are rich in fruit and easy to drink.’

Demas, who is also an ex-head sommelier, added, ‘The key is to choose a wine with depth and fruit-forward character to balance the dish’s rustic nature. Medium to full-bodied Pinot Noirs are ideal, [but] avoiding anything too light.’

For specific matches, Demas highlighted the fruity and spiced profile of a Côtes du Rhône by producer Paul Jaboulet Aîné.

He also suggested Domaine Philippe Livera’s Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Champs’ – describing it as a relatively full-bodied Burgundian Pinot Noir bringing ‘meaty complexity and soft tannins that perfectly complements the dish’.

German Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) with vegetarian haggis

Natalie Earl, Decanter Regional Editor for France (excluding Bordeaux), said she would enjoy vegetarian haggis with a German Spätburgunder.

‘Both have an earthy, savoury character, and the Spätburgunder is light enough not to make the whole combination too rich,’ she said.

Pairing white wines with haggis

If you’re looking for white wines to pair with haggis, refreshing acidity can still help to lift the dish but think about a trying a style with enough richness to stand up to the flavours.

Demas at Galvin Restaurants advised, ‘For white wines, avoid anything too dry or overly sweet. Instead, opt for a wine with a hint of fruitiness, such as a German Riesling or a [white] Grenache with subtle oxidation.’

Other options could include riper styles of Viognier, as well as Chardonnays with a touch of oak or creamy texture from malolactic fermentation.

Alternatively, experimenting with lesser-known styles, and trying out different combinations, is all part of the fun when it comes to wine and food pairing.

See more recent wine reviews by Decanter experts below.

If you’re planning to stick to spirits, here is our guide to 10 of the best Scotch whiskies to try on Burns Night.

Wines to drink with haggis for Burns Night 2025: Recent reviews by our experts

Recent reviews of wines at different price tiers by Decanter experts. The first two wines were among top-scorers in Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2024 feature.

This article has been republished from Decanter’s archive, with updated links and commentary in January 2025. 

Related articles

• Read about Scotland’s wine pioneers this Burns Night
• Wine with beef: Pairing advice and styles to try
• More food and wine pairing tips from Decanter

Highland Park, one of Scotland’s oldest whisky distilleries, now in its 227th year of production, has released its latest landmark bottling, a 56-year-old single malt.

The whisky, with a distillation date going all the way back to 1968, was part of a parcel of ten casks, which master whisky maker, Gordon Motion, identified as having both ‘exceptional complexity and vibrancy’, when he first sampled them back in 2008. After refilling them into first-fill sherry-seasoned casks to give them an additional depth of flavour, the whiskies have gone on to produce some of the oldest and rarest whiskies the distillery has released so far. The latest release is drawn from one of these particular casks and its contents have never been bottled before.

‘Our rarest and oldest whiskies are the ultimate expression of Highland Park’s craft,’ said Motion. ‘As casks are natural products, and each of them unique, I broadly know what I’ll get from each one, but every now and then I find something interesting that just stops me in my tracks and that’s exactly what I experienced with these ten. The second maturation has allowed me to push them even further and I know we’ve created something special.’

Famed for its distinctly floral, subtle smokiness, Highland Park has always exhibited a lighter, more honeyed characteristic running through its DNA, delivered in part by its specific link to the remote landscape of the Orkney Islands. The harsher weather conditions and specifically, the high winds, mean that only low-growing vegetation such as heather can thrive, which in turn has lead to a unique composition of peat, harvested from Hobbister Moor, near the distillery.

‘Even after all these years, the distinctive character of Highland Park’s heathered-peat stands out,’ Motion said. ‘There isn’t the intense woodiness that I’d typically expect to taste in a whisky of this age.’

The bottle design and outer pack pays homage to the island’s Standing Stones of Stenness which date back an incredible 5,000 years – older than Stonehenge. The presentation is a continued collaboration between revered cabinet maker John Galvin and glass designer Michael Rudak who first came together to work on the Highland Park 54-year-old release.

The whisky is bottled at its natural strength of 47.1%, with just 170 bottles on sale globally, priced at an RRP of £40,000.

Tasting notes: Soft red fruit, cloudy honey, a touch of aged Amontillado sherry, ginger snap biscuits and a subtle waft of gentle, perfumed smoke. 

Related articles

• Best Scotch whiskies for Burns Night: 10 to try
• Suntory launches its oldest blended whisky: Hibiki 40 Year Old
• The Glenlivet releases its oldest single malt whisky

Craggy rocks, white-sand beaches and mountains that plunge into the sea. The Hebrides, an archipelago off northwest Scotland, is famous for its dramatic landscapes; less so for contemporary whisky.

While the island of Islay is densely populated with famous-name distilleries, legendary for robustly peated drams, the mainstay of production in the rest of the Hebrides has, for 200 years, rested with Jura on the eponymous island, Talisker on Skye and Tobermory (originally Ledaig) on Mull. A few others have come and gone, or produce whisky on a much smaller scale.

There must be something in the pure Hebridean water, however, as the past decade has seen these wild islands welcome a new wave of distilleries, together shaping a distinctly Hebridean identity.

A new era

In 2015, Anderson ‘Burr’ Bakewell founded Isle of Harris Distillery, the first legal operation ever built on the island. Eight years later, The Hearach Single Malt was released and sold out in a matter of hours.

Isle of Raasay Distillery was the next cab off the rank, opening in 2017, also marking the first legal distillation on its home island; its inaugural offering sold out before its official launch.

That same year, Torabhaig became the second licensed distillery on Skye – the first since 1830. Launching its Legacy Series in 2021, the distillery introduced new ways of thinking about the spirit, including hiring whisky newcomers directly into the team. The idea of the move is that, free from the constraints of tradition, creativity can flow more freely under the expert guidance of whiskymaker Neil Macleod Mathieson.

North Uist Distillery (located not on North Uist itself, but on the neighbouring island of Benbecula, on its west coast) fired up its stills in 2019; Benbecula Distillery (on its north coast) in 2024. Both revive heritage grains grown locally, with Benbecula incorporating foraged heather into its peat fires.

Each distillery produces drams that reflect its surroundings: coastal salt spray, wisps of smoke and heather join sweetness from the famously pure Hebridean water. Innovative cask finishes – such as red wine and oloroso Sherry – soften the edges of whiskies that are gentler than their Islay cousins.

Traditional techniques are blended with the new. Across the islands, modernist distilleries stand out from the rugged terrain. Among the varied releases, a new Hebridean whisky identity is emerging, as bold and surprising as its landscapes.

Want to know more?

You can find these single malts online or in good bottle shops. But why not make a trip to the annual Hebridean Whisky Festival in September or explore the year-round Hebridean Whisky Trail?

A Hebridean whisky to try…

Torabhaig The Legacy Series Cnoc Na Moine

Isle of Skye, Scotland

‘Tempered peat’ defines the house style of Torabhaig on the Isle of Skye. Flavours are sculpted for rugged elegance: aromas of brine, leather, smoked honey and bonfire meet charcuterie, cinnamon, candied coconut and heather. Alcohol 46%

Related articles

• Scotch producer claims Guinness World Record for ‘The Greatest Variety of Flavours in a Whisky’
• Best Scotch whisky: 15 great bottles to try
• King Charles III’s official birthday celebrated with rare Scotch whisky blend

Single malt is far from being the sole passion of Glenmorangie Master Distiller Dr Bill Lumsden. The arch experimenter (sometimes jarringly dubbed the Willy Wonka of whisky) also has a penchant for high fashion, early Alan Partridge – and fine wine. He’s equally at home discussing Sassicaia as he is Speyside.

Scroll down to see our selection of 12 perfect whiskies for wine lovers

So when Glenmorangie launched its Pursuit of Passion Wine Cask Collection earlier this year – a £7,740 trio of long-aged single malts part-matured in Margaux, Corton-Charlemagne and Barbaresco wine casks – the name was a good deal more than mere marketing spin. Furthermore, Lumsden was perpetuating the long, proud connection between the worlds of wine and whisky.

Historical coincidence and sheer practicality play a role here. As Scotch whisky’s appeal grew during the 19th century, the dearth of locally grown oak meant that blenders were forced to look elsewhere to find casks in which to age and marry their spirit. Luckily enough, the docks of Leith, Glasgow and Aberdeen were heaving with barrels of wine imported from European wine regions: most famously Sherry, but also Port, Madeira and claret. So the idea of using an old Margaux cask to mature Scotch certainly wasn’t invented in the 21st century.

What began as necessity – whisky makers used these casks simply because they were there – has, over time, become a complex synergy that distillers have probed and refined.

The Sherry factor

We’ve been buying Sherry casks for over 100 years,’ says Scott Adamson, global brand ambassador and blender for Highland single malt-maker Tomatin. ‘It’s something we’ve known for so long that works so well for Tomatin.’

Like Lumsden, Adamson is a wine enthusiast. ‘I think Sherry is a wine for whisky lovers,’ he says. ‘It’s got a place, a story and diversity, just like Scotch.’ Tomatin’s latest range, the limited-edition Sherry Collection, bridges the gap between grape and grain: showing wine lovers how whisky and Sherry can combine to create something delicious, and displaying Sherry’s diversity to whisky fans.

The range eschews whisky’s commonplace use of ex-oloroso casks – the source of those classic Christmas cake/dried fruit flavours – in favour of cask finishes in ex-manzanilla, palo cortado and Pedro Ximénez wood. And these are ex-bodega casks – in other words, casks that have been retired from their respective Sherry-ageing soleras.

Why does this matter? Most Sherry casks used for whisky today are bespoke creations – coopered, ‘seasoned’ with Sherry, then emptied and transported to Scotland, all to the precise specifications of the distiller. They tend to be more ‘active’ – in other words the oak (be it American or European) imparts more flavour. Meanwhile ex-bodega casks are decades-old and inactive. Here, the whisky derives characters from the cask’s previous contents, not the wood itself.

Wine-cask wizardry

Modern-day distillers have explored the wide world of wine. Tomatin, for instance, released its Italian Collection, which used ex-Marsala, Amarone and Barolo casks, last year. Meanwhile Lumsden has tried everything from Meursault to Bolgheri. But working with wine wood can be a tricky business: overdo it and the whisky can develop over-sweet, jammy notes.

For Lumsden, patience is key – he believes that those vinous notes diminish with time – while Adamson reckons wine casks have a brief moment where they’re at their peak. ‘You can get a fantastic balance between whisky and cask – then six to 12 months later, the wine might have completely overwhelmed it,’ he says. ‘The window of opportunity is much smaller.’

At their best, wine cask-matured whiskies are some of the most memorable and distinctive drops around. Think Dalmore’s deep exploration of González Byass Sherry and Graham’s Port casks; Glenmorangie’s neverending experimental streak; or the stunning wine cask whiskies produced in whisky’s new world – Taiwan’s Kavalan, Japan’s Chichibu and Australia’s Starward to name a few.

If there’s an underlying rule, it’s harmony between wood and liquid. ‘There are still a couple of wine estates out there that I’d like to get my hands on,’ says Lumsden. ‘I don’t want to name names as I’m hot on their trail. But the mantra for me is always the same: is it true to the Glenmorangie style and does it actually taste good?’

Whiskies for wine lovers: 12 to try

Bunnahabhain Fèis Ile 2024 19YO Mòine Madeira Cask Finish

Scotland

A distillery-exclusive from this year’s Islay Festival, this is the lesser-spotted peated side of Bunna’, combining the distillery’s soft, juicy fruits (mandarin, peach) alongside sweet, billowing smoke and – from a seven-year ‘finish’ in ex-Madeira casks – notes of roasted chestnut, sweet cinnamon and prunes in chocolate. Alcohol 51.2%

Cardrona Growing Wings Central Otago Pinot Noir Cask

New Zealand

Great Kiwi whisky meets fine Kiwi wine in this high-octane bottling matured for five years in casks supplied by Mount Difficulty. It’s all about poise, marrying Cardrona’s honeyed apples-and-pears distillate with the wood’s wild strawberry, vanilla-cream character. Adding a little water opens up the aromas. Alc 67.4%

Chichibu Red Wine Cask 2023

Japan

Take 36 casks of spirit then rack them into an array of wine wood: Pinot Noir from Burgundy and New Zealand; Napa Cabernet; red wine and Muscat from Japan. Chaotic? Hardly. The result from Japanese master Ichiro Akuto is a seamless, delicate mix of vibrant red fruits, heady floral aromas and a twist of menthol. Alc 50.5%

Glenfiddich Grand Château 31YO

Scotland

Glenfiddich’s first foray into Bordeaux red wine casks, but it won’t be its last if this is anything to go by. Nine years in wine wood dial up the distillery’s apple-scented fruit, moving into sweet layers of cassis and black cherry, backed up by warming Christmas spices. Deep and resonant. Alc 47.6%

Glenmorangie The Nectar 16YO

Scotland

There’s something special about the combination of Glenmorangie with dessert-wine casks. This revamped version uses oak from Sauternes, Monbazillac, Spanish Moscatel and Tokaji, and is predictably decadent: sticky bread-and-butter pudding, zingy lemon, roasted almond and a slight herbal lift. Alc 46%

Kavalan Triple Sherry Cask

Taiwan

Kavalan’s sterling work with fortified-wine casks has helped secure the Taiwan distillery’s reputation at the forefront of world whisky. This is a pitch-perfect combination of oloroso, PX and Moscatel, piling layers of dried plum and dark chocolate on top of Kavalan’s juicy tropical fruits. Alc 40%

Kingsbarns Distillery Reserve 2024

Scotland

The Fife distillery’s oldest release to date was fully matured in ex-solera oloroso Sherry casks, ushering the gently fruity and floral distillate into richer, warmer territory: candied orange peel, mulled wine spices and blackberries in dark chocolate. Unashamedly cask-driven and as comforting as a hug. Alc 58.2%

Redbreast Lustau Edition

Ireland

Two masters of their craft – Midleton distillery in Ireland and Bodegas Lustau in Jerez – join forces in this oloroso-matured classic. Rich notes of dates and liquorice contrast with the oily orchard fruit of single pot still spirit, with a bite of grip and tannin from active European oak. Alc 46%

Starward Fortis

Australia

Starward’s provenance-first approach extends to this single malt aged exclusively in American oak red wine casks, mostly from the Barossa. Lots of rich, dark fruit, a mouthful of chocolate brownie and plenty of oak-driven baking spices and tannic structure. Explosive. Alc 50%

The Dalmore Port Wood Reserve

Scotland

Can’t afford the £35,000 for Dalmore’s recently released Cask Curation Series trio of Port-matured malts? Console yourself with this festive combination of unctuous spirit with tawny Port pipes supplied by Graham’s. Raspberries in dark chocolate and cinnamon-dusted plums, melded with darker flavours of coffee roaster, sultanas and liquorice. Alc 46.5%

The GlenAllachie 10YO Grattamacco Wine Cask Finish

Scotland

GlenAllachie Master Distiller Billy Walker’s experiments with wine casks have spawned more hits than misses, including this tie-in with the Grattamacco estate in Bolgheri. Rich cassis and heady spices from the cask, but always GlenAllachie’s irresistible honeyed elegance as a counterpoint. Alc 48%

Tomatin The Sherry Collection Manzanilla Edition

Scotland

Showing that there’s more to Sherry maturation than oloroso, this combination of Tomatin’s gentle Highland spirit with ex-solera manzanilla butts represents spirit and wood in perfect harmony. Fresh-baked bread and butter, ripe citrus fruits and a lightly nutty finish, with just a lick of sea salt. Alc 46%

Related articles

• Best spirits gifts to buy for Christmas 2024
• The perfect whisky for Christmas: Ten top picks
• Understanding organic whisky

Two of the headline lots featuring The Macallan whisky failed to sell in Bonhams’ online auction in Hong Kong, with Japanese whiskies instead tempting buyers.

Neither The Red Collection nor The Reach found new homes during the sale, which began on 15 November and ended on St Andrew’s Day, the national holiday commemorating Scotland’s patron saint, on 30 November.

The Red Collection featured 40, 50, 60, 71, 74, 77 and 78-year-old whiskies, and marked the first time that the seven-bottle set had gone on sale through Bonhams.

The collection carried a pre-sale estimate of between HK$5,000,000 (£503,000) and HK$7,500,000 (£755,000).

The Reach, Macallan’s second-oldest release, was distilled in 1940 and bottled when it was 81 years old.

The three hands that form its stand – which was created by Scottish sculptor Saskia Robinson – represent current master whisky maker Kirsteen Campbell, former Macallan chairman Allan Shiach, and distillery workers from the 1940s.

Its pre-sale estimate stood at between HK$1,300,000 (£131,000) and HK$1,800,000 (£181,000).

Mark Littler, an independent whisky broker and consultant, said: ‘Sadly I’m not surprised these lots didn’t sell.

‘When The Red Collection launched in 2020, the market was strong, but the near impossibility of acquiring key age statements like the 60 year old made completing a full set challenging, leading to waning interest.

‘Subsequent re-releases of age statements, such as the 40 year old, have contributed to the perception of the series as open ended, reducing its appeal to collectors.’

He added: ‘The Reach debuted at the height of the market in 2022 but has since seen prices fall dramatically – from nearly £400,000 early in 2023 to £130,000 by year-end.

‘Much of the earlier value growth in modern whisky – post 2015 – was driven by speculative buying.

‘Following the market correction, collectors now focus on truly rare bottles.

‘While this presents excellent opportunities for informed buyers, many still lack the confidence to navigate the current landscape.’

Other Macallan lots did find buyers, with a Lalique 60 year old selling for HK$450,000 (£45,300), a Lalique 57 year old fetching HK$375,000 (£37,800), and Lalique 55 year old also going under the hammer for HK$375,000 (£37,800).

A bottle of 48-year-old Johnnie Walker Masters of Flavour blended Scotch whisky also changed hands for HK$150,000 (£15,100).

The sale marked the opening of Bonhams’ Asia head office. While the two star Macallan lots floundered, Japanese whiskies proved popular during the online Hong Kong auction.

The Hibiki 40 Year Old, the oldest blended whisky made by spirits giant Suntory, sold for HK$425,000 (£42,800), towards the upper end of its HK$340,000 (£34,200) to HK$500,000 (£50,300) valuation.

The blend drew on whiskies from each of Suntory’s Japanese distilleries – Chita, Hakushu, and Yamazaki.

Eighteen lots featuring Hanyu’s playing card series – which the auction house described as ‘one of Japan’s most coveted whisky series’ – also went under the hammer.

A spokeswoman for Bonhams told Decanter: ‘The top two Macallan lots were not sold; however, we saw notable results for Japanese whiskies in this auction, including the Hibiki 40 Year Old, which sold for HK$425,000.

‘Additionally, all 18 bottles of the Hanyu Ichiro cards offered were sold, with a combined price above estimate.

‘In particular, Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt – King of Diamonds – first edition sold for HK$525,000, and Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt – Ace of Spades – first edition sold for HK$325,000, both exceeding their high estimates.’

Related articles

• Rare Japanese whisky collection to be auctioned this month
• Best spirits gifts to buy for Christmas 2024
• Sotheby’s wine and spirits auction sales hit record $159m

Johnson Reserve Ascension is a single malt whisky that has been through a sequence of 33 casks during the painstaking maturation process.

The casks included mezcal, Port, Madeira, Marsala, Armagnac and Pedro Ximénez barrels, each of which contributed to the diverse flavour profile.

An adjudicator from the Guinness World Records confirmed that Johnson Reserve Ascension contains the greatest variety of flavours ever featured in a whisky.

It marks the culmination of a 12-year project from the Johnson family, which runs a specialist production and maturation facility in Glenfarg, Scotland.

‘This process required years of trial and refinement to understand the nuances of cask sequencing,’ said operations manager Cameron Jessiman.

‘Some casks have to precede others to create balance, allowing each layer of flavour to emerge distinctly without dominating the profile.’

The company worked with flavour laboratories to enhance their understanding of the influence of each cask in a bid to add scientific precision to their artistry.

A Madeira barrique infused the whisky with subtle fortified wine characteristics, while the mezcal barrel imparted smoky, earthy tones. Meanwhile, a Rivesaltes barrique added nutty and fruity undertones to the single malt, which has not been blended.

Just 40 bottles of Ascension will be released, so Johnson Reserve expects it to become a true collectors’ item. A ballot will be held for the chance to purchase a bottle, with the price available on application.

‘Our goal is to share what we’ve learned, so that advanced cask maturation can benefit the industry as a whole,’ said managing director Alexander Johnson.

‘While age statements often guide whisky purchases, many can be disappointed by older whiskies that lack active management. We want to highlight that quality maturation is a matter of care and expertise, not just time.’

Related articles

• Distilled – Music icon Beyoncé Knowles-Carter launches whiskey
• Tennessee whiskey for beginners: Eight to try
• Understanding organic whisky

Whisky legend the late Dr Jim Swan once described organic barley as an expensive waste of time. That was almost a decade ago and he was talking mainly about distillery economics. But did he have a point?

We know organic farming increases biodiversity and improves soil health. ‘If you’ve ever visited an organic farm and a non-organic farm, you can see the difference in those fields,’ says Liam Hirt, co-founder of the Circumstance Distillery in Bristol. ‘One is very much more alive.’

So it’s good for farmers. What about us drinkers?

What makes a whisky organic?

To make an organic whisky, distillers must follow organic principles all the way from raw material to finished product. At Circumstance the whiskies are organic but the rums and gins are not. Hirt says strong systems are vital to prevent cross-contamination. This means storing organic products separately, purging equipment between organic and non-organic batches and documenting absolutely everything.

Hirt uses yeasts more often found in Bavarian weissbiers, saisons and mead. Yeast falls under the organic rules too, meaning genetically modified organisms are strictly forbidden. ‘We needed to go to our suppliers and be certain that none of them were GMO and have them certified as such,’ he explains.

Certification and traceability?

A handful of certification bodies police organic distillers and their suppliers, including the Soil Association and Biodynamic Association. The main concern is traceability. Distillers must be able to show there’s no contamination of the organic chain.

Inspectors will spot-check records and balance amounts of organic malt purchased against alcohol sold. Any discrepancy could mean someone has snuck illicit sacks of non-organic malt through the distillery gates.

Whisky is an unusual product in the organic world, so finding a certifier who understands it is key. ‘It’s not like vegetables; get them in, package them, send them out,’ says Annabel Thomas, founder and CEO of Nc’nean Distillery in the western Highlands of Scotland. ‘We get barley and put it into a cask, then sell it three years, maybe five years later.’

What about organic casks?

Talking of casks, must they also be organic? Until recently, no-one could agree. ‘It’s not defined in the regulations because it’s quite niche,’ Thomas explains. Lately, a consensus has emerged that barrels are exempt.

Given their strong influence on the flavour of a whisky, this came as a relief. ‘If we had to source only new oak barrels, that would have had such an enormous impact on our spirit that it might have swayed me away from the whole endeavour,’ Thomas says.

What are the challenges?

Graham Manson, commercial sales manager of malting company Bairds Malt, says organic harvests are more at risk from bad weather, as farmers can’t rely on chemicals to ensure their crop ripens before a rainy autumn kicks in. ‘They either wait for it or they sacrifice a bit of quality and harvest it when the conditions are right,’ he notes.

The headaches don’t stop there. Organic barley yields up to 25% less grain per hectare, Manson estimates. It also costs more to grow. Farmers may save on chemicals but typically spend more on weed control. As a result organic malt can cost up to twice as much.

On top of that, organic malt makes less alcohol. This is because it typically has a higher nitrogen content, which means less carbohydrates and thus less alcohol. According to Manson, distillers should expect at most 400 litres from every tonne, compared to 410 litres for non-organic malt. At Nc’nean, which uses only organic Scottish barley, that figure has settled out at around 390 litres.

Why go organic?

Thomas estimates the overheads of going organic add up to an extra 6% on the cost of a bottle. For a whisky sold at £55 that translates to £3.50.

‘I think we proved Jim Swan partially right and partially wrong,’ says Thomas. ‘He’s right that it’s expensive, but I don’t believe it’s a waste of time.’

Organic whisky doesn’t just benefit farmers and the environment, according to Thomas. She believes drinkers will find an upside too. ‘What you notice across many organic whiskies is that they have this lovely buttery texture,’ she says. ‘That comes from the organic barley.’

8 organic whiskies to try

Circumstance Single Grain Estate Whisky

Four grains, three yeasts and three types of cask; no wonder it’s so complex. Sips like warming silk. Each taste is a new dimension: date and plum, vanilla and clove, peach and orange, toffee and caramel biscuits, finishing on nutty oak and baking spice. Alcohol 45%

Deanston 2002 Organic American Oak 20 Year Old

Matured in re-charred American oak casks and bottled at cask strength. It opens with orange, pineapple and pear drop. The palate is rich and waxy, showing shortbread, sweet caramel popcorn and toasted coconut. Cinnamon and cloves linger on the finish. Alc 49.7%

Domaines des Hautes Glaces Indigène

A French single malt matured in a suitably Gallic combo of casks: wine, Cognac and Armagnac. It’s less vanilla, more nut and toasted cereal. Aromas of white peach and jasmine, with hints of soft, fresh baguette plus that buttery texture again. Alc 44%

Highland Harvest Organic Single Malt

An independent bottling from an undisclosed distillery. It starts out light, gentle and fresh, all popcorn and clean summer florals. Over time it reveals more depths of deliciousness: hay, flaky blonde pastry glazed with apricot jam, vanilla, raisins and cherries. Alc 46%

Koval Single Barrel Bourbon

Its mash bill marries the expected (51% corn) to the unexpected (49% millet). Its texture is smooth and a touch oily. A sweet, rich whack of vanilla weaves through jammy stone fruit, date and caramel, then a long spiced finish with a hint of tonka bean. Alc 47%

Nc’nean Organic Single Malt

Smooth, buttery texture, with complex layers of honeyed malt, vanilla and oak. The palate bursts with clove-studded peaches, cherries and ripe pineapple. Stem ginger mixes with peppery spice on the finish. Aged in bourbon, Sherry and STR (shaved, toasted and re-charred) red wine casks. Alc 46%

Thy Bøg Danish Single Malt

Matured in oloroso and PX casks. Beechwood-smoked malt brings an extra dimension of depth and warmth. Smooth as you like. Rich with dried fruit, candied citrus peel, banoffee, boozy sultanas and Maltesers. Confident. Delicious. One you’ll want to share. Alc 50%

Waterford Organic Gaia 2.1

Made from 2016’s barley. It’s like you’re nose down in the earth, sniffing the field itself. Grassy with an almost maritime freshness. Then come apples, bread crusts, porridge and hay building over soft, smooth buttery grain to grapefruit and cocoa on the finish. Alc 50%

Related articles

• Mizunara oak explained
• American rye whiskey: A beginner’s guide and seven to try
• Discover Nordic whiskies

It was a full house for the first-ever spirits masterclass at Decanter’s inaugural Fine Wine Encounter in Singapore, with the rich history and drams from Japan’s Nikka Whisky enthralling attendees.

Hosted by Diego Araud, of specialist spirits merchant La Maison du Whisky, and Ch’ng Poh Tiong, one of only 3,000 people worldwide honoured as a Keeper of the Quaich for their commitment to the Scotch whisky industry, the 90-minute class was entertaining and informative for both whisky lovers and novices alike.

Scroll down for tasting notes of the six whiskies tasted at Decanter’s Nikka Whisky masterclass

Ch’ng, who is also Regional Chair for Asia at the Decanter World Wine Awards, admitted that despite his love for wine ‘it is often too subtle… my heart and my liver are with whisky’.

‘Of course, wine is wonderful, but spirits is where it’s going,’ he said. ‘Your last drink of any great evening is usually a spirit, and that spirit – for me – is almost always whisky.’

And while Scotland remains the homeland, Japanese whisky has ‘taken off like a rocket’, explained Araud. Which is all thanks to one man.

Father of Japanese whisky

More than a century ago, instead of joining the family sake brewery, Masataka Taketsuru became enamoured with Western spirits and, in 1918, became the first Japanese person to travel to Scotland to learn about Scotch whisky.

After chemistry studies at Glasgow University and apprenticeships at several distilleries, he returned to Japan not only with the notebooks that were to become the bible for Japanese whisky production, but also a wife – Rita Cowan.

In 1923, the company that was later renamed Suntory hired him to oversee the building of Kyoto’s Yamazaki distillery. And there, in 1929, Taketsuru made Japan’s first whisky – Suntory Shirofuda.

Wanting to set out on their own, to make weightier more complex whiskies akin to those of Scotland, the Taketsurus opened their own distillery on the island of Hokkaido in July 1934 – choosing the town of Yoichi, as its cool climate and surrounding mountains and sea reminded them of Campbeltown.

They named their company Nikka, a portmanteau of Nippon Kaju –’Japanese juice’. Today, 90 years on, the brand is synonymous with craftsmanship and quality.

Nikka Whisky: six drams to try

Masterclass attendees were welcomed with a highball, a 1:2 ratio of whisky and soda water, featuring Nikka From the Barrel. The blended whisky (55% grain and 45% malt) is a hefty 51.4% abv but, served in this way, offers a balanced, refreshing experience of the Nikka style.

‘Highballs are perfect to enjoy in hot countries like Singapore,’ said Araud. ‘And while you are eating too,’ added Ch’ng. ‘The flavours are really versatile, particularly with spicy Asian cuisines.’

A whistle-stop tasting of five other Nikka whiskies followed: the Yoichi Single Malt, from Taketsuru’s original Hokkaido distillery; the Miyagikyo Single Malt, from the distillery in Sendai he opened in 1969; and the Taketsuru Pure Malt, a blend of those two single malts. Nikka’s Coffey Malt – made in a column still – was a favourite of attendees, for its smooth, spiced sweetness.

To finish the masterclass, attendees were among only a handful in the world to taste Nikka’s Nine Decades – an exclusive release of only 4,000 bottles globally to celebrate the brand’s 90th anniversary. Priced at £2,500 for 70cl, it’s a blend of 50 malt and grain batches from Nikka’s six distilleries that span nine decades – from the 1940s to the 2020s.

Coming soon: Discover the other DFWE Singapore 2024 masterclasses

Clos de Vougeot

Château Lafite Rothschild & Long Dai

How to enjoy whisky

Araud said there was an outdated perception that whisky could only be appreciated ‘on the rocks, by men sitting in a big leather chair in front of a fire’, but that the popularity of whisky-based cocktails, especially in Asia, and notably with Japanese whiskies such as Nikka, had helped to turn this notion on its head.

Ageing being an indicator of whisky quality was another popular misconception, said Ch’ng. ‘It’s just a piece of information, like the grape variety in a wine, or the alcohol level. Ageing a bad whisky for 40 years doesn’t make it better, just as a heavy bottle or a darker colour doesn’t make a red wine better.’

Far more important, they said, was the distillery character and the origin and age of barrels in a whisky’s maturation.

Araud and Ch’ng encouraged whisky newcomers to keep tasting a variety of styles and brands to build their own descriptors. Jackfruit, goji berry or oolong may mean more to an Asian palate than a Western one, for example.

Enjoying whisky at different temperatures and with or without water and ice was also important. ‘Try it cool, try it at room temperature, warm the glass up in your hands and see how it changes, add water, add ice – it’s up to you; play around!’ urged Araud.

Although he did advise people not to keep whisky in the fridge. ‘In a single malt, you want to let those oils, essences and volatile compounds show. If it’s too cold then it will restrict the expression and you won’t get all the aromas or flavours.’

DFWE Singapore 2024: Nikka Whisky masterclass

Nikka Yoichi Single Malt

From the original Nikka distillery in Hokkaido, founded in 1934, this is a no-age-statement blend of single malts from different years. Being close to the sea, there is a fresh salinity alongside the delicate peatiness, with an overlay of sweet citrus fruit and ripe pear. A smooth, balanced malt that showcases the rich, smoky Nikka style. About £65/70cl. Alc 45%

Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt

Nikka’s Miyagikyo distillery in Sendai opened in 1969 and this no-age-statement blend of single malts from different years is mainly matured in ex-Sherry casks. This comes through in its oily, unctuous banana fudge, raisin, spiced chocolate and smoked almond flavours. A versatile whisky for food: try with chicken masala. About £65/70cl. Alc 45%

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt

Named for Masataka Taketsuru, Nikka’s founder and the father of Japanese whisky, this is a blend of the two single malts: Miyagikyo and Yoichi, matured in mainly ex-Sherry casks for 10 years. Fruit-forward with rich, spicy caramel tones, it’s an approachable style perfect for a highball, more complex whisky cocktails or simply straight up. About £55/70cl. Alc 43%

Nikka Coffey Malt

Unlike single-batch pot stills for malt whisky, continuous column stills – invented by Aeneas Coffey – are used to produce vast quantities of grain whisky. But Nikka’s single-cask releases of its Coffey Malt became so popular, the style joined its core range in 2014. Spiced rum drinkers will find similarities in its roast pineapple, banoffee pie and toasted almond notes and smooth easy-sipping style. About £60/70cl. Alc 45%

Nikka from the Barrel

First released in the 1980s, this squat rectangular bottle is a Nikka icon: a blended whisky with a high proportion of single malt (about 45%) from the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries and matured in a range of casks, including ex-bourbon barrels. Deeply aromatic, with rich spiced rye, sweet vanilla fudge and dried apple flavours. About £40/70cl. Alc 51.4%

The Nikka Nine Decades

Bottled in 2024 for Nikka’s 90th anniversary, only 4,000 bottles were made: half reserved for the Japanese market, 964 bottles released in Europe and 400 in the US. It’s a blend of 50 malt and grain batches from Nikka’s six distilleries that span nine decades – from the 1940s to the 2020s. They include Yoichi Single Malt from 1945 (the oldest stock from that site), Miyagikyo and Ben Nevis Single Malts from the 1960s, and Nishinomiya grain whisky from the 1980s. Non-chill filtered, it is layered and complex, with dark fruit flavours, chocolate almond richness, a piquant smokiness and sweetly spiced oak. Prices for this limited-edition whisky start at £2,500 for a 70cl bottle in a wooden presentation case. Alc 48%

Related articles

• Highlights from the inaugural DFWE Singapore
• DWWA winners impress at Decanter’s inaugural Fine Wine Encounter in Singapore
• Photo highlights from DFWE Singapore