Verdejo has cemented its status as Spain’s most popular white wine after winning legions of admirers. Wine lovers enjoy its zesty acidity, citrus flavours and distinctive herbal notes. It makes an ideal aperitif, but Verdejo also pairs beautifully with a wide array of foods, from salad and seafood to guacamole and Asian dishes.

Most Verdejo is produced in Rueda, which is located in the heart of Spain’s Castilla y León region. In 2012, the Designation of Origin (DO) Rueda reported 11.3% annual sales growth, driven by the soaring popularity of Verdejo.

However, 85% of sales were made within Spain, while only 15% went to export markets. That inspired the DO Rueda to create World Verdejo Day in 2013.

The rise of World Verdejo Day

World Verdejo Day started out as a small celebration in a handful of US cities, but it expanded rapidly in the ensuing years. By 2018, it had become a global event, with promotional activities across the US, Mexico, the UK, Spain, the Netherlands and beyond. The event takes place on the second Friday of June each year.

Exports have also increased at a brisk pace. In 2025, DO Rueda exported 17,481,944 bottles, with Verdejo accounting for 88% of sales. The UK has developed a particular fondness for Verdejo, with sales exceeding 1.3 million bottles in 2025 alone.

A millennium in the making

Verdejo has been grown in Castilla y León for more than 1,000 years. For most of that time, it was used to make oxidative, sherry-style wines. The grape was almost wiped out by the phylloxera epidemic in the early 20th century, and for decades afterwards it was used for producing simple, often forgettable whites.

Verdejo was then reborn in the 1970s, when celebrated Rioja producers identified Rueda as the ideal place to make serious white wine in Spain. The DO Rueda was established in 1980, and the grape has gone from strength to strength ever since.

Today, Rueda still accounts for the vast majority of Verdejo plantings. The grape thrives in the region’s stony soils and high-altitude vineyards, which are often 700 to 900 metres above sea level. Those altitudes produce dramatic day-night temperature swings that preserve acidity and aromatic intensity.

However, Verdejo has now started to expand out of its Spanish heartland. Pioneering producers in Argentina, Australia, the US and further afield are starting to produce high-quality Verdejo, pointing to a bright future for this popular grape. The second Friday in June is the perfect time to celebrate its rise by enjoying a glass of Verdejo with friends.

Scroll down to see award-winning Spanish Verdejo wines from DWWA 2025

DWWA 2025: Award-winning Spanish Verdejo wines

Fortified

De Alberto Gutiérrez, De Alberto Palido, Rueda NV
Gold, 95 points
A beguiling austerity of smoky saline and iodine aroma that fuses with the mouth-watering limpidity of braised celery and fennel seed that enhances the creamy texture. Alcohol 15%

Still whites

Bodegas Rodríguez Y Sanzo, Palo Norte Verdejo, Rueda 2020
Gold, 95 points
Intricately laced with dried chamomile, dried herbs and mace on the nose, with a flourish of delectable lemon peel acidity and a long nutty finish. Alc 13.5%

Cuatro Rayas, Vendimia Nocturna Verdejo, Rueda 2024
Silver, 94 points
The nose has a character of ripe peaches, lemon oil, chamomile, lemongrass and lilac flowers. Chalky on the palate. Alc 13.5%

Viñas Murillo, Chapirete Seleccion Verdejo, Rueda 2024
Silver, 94 points
Beautiful nose, displaying delicate aromas of orange blossom, lemon zest and marmalade. Tangy and bright, with a delicate saline character. Alc 13.5%

Marqués De Riscal, Finca Montico Organic Verdejo, Rueda 2023
Silver, 94 points
Lovely bright floral notes with nuances of tobacco leaf, tarragon, ripe peaches, guava and dragon fruit. Harmonious, with a long finish. Alc 12.8%

Valdecuevas, Cuvèe Verdejo, Rueda 2023
Silver, 94 points
Limey nose with floral tones of lilac, violets and honeydew melon. Rounded acidity, very refreshing, with a pithy finish. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Campo Eliseo, Rueda 2022
Silver, 93 points
Nutty nuances with hints of vanilla, smoke and peaches. Citrusy on the palate, with a very long and fresh finish. Alc 13.5%

Javier Ruiz, Verdejo, Rueda 2024
Silver, 92 points
Subtle and perfumed, with apples, passion fruit, roses and a touch of pickles on the nose. Vibrant acidity, great mouthfeel. Alc 13.5%

Bodega Cuatro Rayas, Amador Diez Verdejo, Rueda 2020
Silver, 92 points
The nose shows aromas of mulberry, mistletoe, white fruits and dried herbs. Elegant on the palate, very well made. Alc 13.3%

Bodegas R&G, Parcela 23, Rueda 2022
Silver, 92 points
Lifted aromas of flowers, ripe fruits and some saline edge on the nose. Textural palate, with a long pithy finish. Alc 13%

Pedro Escudero, Bestia Parda, Castilla y Léon 2020
Silver, 92 points
Complex aromas of custard cream, lime, lemon and green tea leaf with some toasty and floral undertones. Succulent and creamy. Alc 13%

Finca Tresolmos, Classic Verdejo, Rueda 2024
Silver, 91 points
Restrained on the nose, showing fresh and pure aromas of lemon and fennel. Creamy texture and pleasant acidity. Really appealing. Alc 13%

Coming soon: Decanter World Wine Awards 2026 results

Related articles

White Burgundy is one of life’s great pleasures, so don’t be intimidated – it’s easy to dive right in.

Although the category offers incredible diversity in style, quality, and price, we provide a roadmap that gives you a shortcut for deciding which wine is perfect for you on every occasion.

The best way to begin is to ask yourself the questions below.

Who will you be with?

Family, friends, and work clients each require a different solution to finding the perfect white Burgundy.

Choosing a wine to share with your family should be easy, but often it isn't. Hopefully, they will not judge you, but one wants top quality for those who are close.

Ideally, your house white Burgundy will be an everyday wine, so find a producer working in a style that you like and anchor your wine fridge with one of their entry-level offerings.

I delight in finding a solid sub-£25 Mâcon-Villages and laying down a case for frequent drinking, such as the Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras.

You may wish to surprise your friends, so explore something new among the region's rising stars.

The wines with the most buzz will not be the least expensive, but they will still cost less than top names.

Guillaume Lafon, son of renowned winemaker Dominique Lafon, has just founded his own domaine and is producing tremendously exciting wines.

Clients need to be impressed with a classic wine that is reliable in every vintage, so choose a well-known name from a classic region.

Bosses, however, will be impressed by smart choices, so let the size of your expense account determine whether you are picking a regional Bourgogne, a village-level wine, or a ravishing premier cru.

What is your style?

At the risk of oversimplifying, it may help to think of three main styles of white Burgundy: crisp and refreshing, richly exuberant, and polished and elegant.

The good news is that you can find bargains among all three types. The classic example of ‘crisp and refreshing’ is Chablis.

The wines have aromas of citrus and green apple, and the better ones have a pronounced flinty, mineral note.

Although it’s fine to start with an inexpensive Petit Chablis, but for a surprisingly small increase in price, you will find a village-level Chablis like the 2024 Domaine Billaud-Simon that will give you the full range of minerally, lemony fruit.

At the opposite end of the spectrum are richly exuberant white Burgundies, like those from the southern districts of Burgundy (the Mâconnais).

This region offers some of the most reasonably priced wines, yet also delivers great quality, particularly in crus whose names appear alone on the label.

The single vineyard Saint-Véran Les Crèches from talented grower Domaine Saumaise-Michelin is a perfect place to start.

Wines from all over Burgundy could fit into our ‘polished and elegant’ category, but to simplify, focus on finding values from the rarified 'golden triangle' of white Burgundy villages: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet.

These villages are renowned for the quality and complexity of their wines, but they can often be expensive; some, however, will fit into your Starter Pack.

One example is the Bourgogne Côte d'Or from Meursault producer Michel Bouzereau.

Although they are grown outside the area for village-level wines, they still show some of their noble character.

Where and when are you drinking?

A final consideration is time and place. White Burgundy is incredibly versatile, so don't be afraid to mix it up.

In a restaurant, the tried-and-true pairings could be Chablis with shellfish or lighter fish such as sole.

The wines of the Côte d’Or can accompany more substantial dishes such as roast chicken, pork, or duck, and the exuberantly fruity wines of the Mâconnais are well suited to spicier food such as Indian or Chinese.

To answer the perennial question ‘when to drink?’, one must leave it to personal preference, and many inexpensive white Burgundies drink well on release.

The best of the premier cru wines, however, need some time to digest the oak used in their ageing, and warrant up to a decade of cellaring, while the top grand cru whites can easily age for 50 years.

Once you know the ‘who, what, where, and when’ of Burgundy, you won’t need any help deciding ‘why’, since these wines are among the most enjoyable whites produced anywhere.

Your White Burgundy starter pack

Related articles

Moscato emerged as the drink of choice for hip-hop royalty in the 2000s. Lil’ Kim got the ball rolling when she mentioned the semi-sparkling wine in her 2006 hit Lighters Up, and Drake was soon waxing lyrical about pairing Moscato with lobster.

Ab-Soul and Kendrick Lamar captured the zeitgeist when they collaborated on Moscato in 2011. Lamar, who went on to win a Pulitzer Prize, delivers this immortal line on the track: 'When things get hard to swallow, we need a bottle of Moscato, puts me in the mood for your lovin’ – ya love it.'

Sales exceeded $300 million in the US that year, while sales in Canada doubled.

Californian winery Gallo Family Vineyards decided to capitalise on the trend, so it created Moscato Day in 2012. The company chose 9 May as a fixed annual date, giving fans – including hip-hop superstars – a chance to savour a glass of Moscato each year.

An ancient grape with modern appeal

The Muscat family of grapes has thrived in the Mediterranean for thousands of years.

Its roots may stretch back to Ancient Greece, where it was likely known as Anathelicon Moschaton. Historians have speculated that the Ancient Romans, Persians and Egyptians all enjoyed wines made from Muscat too.

The family contains more than 200 varieties, but the most prized for winemaking is Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains – the grape behind Italy’s beloved Moscato d’Asti. The grape found its spiritual home in Piedmont, in north-west Italy.

That region is renowned for making world-class red wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, but it also created Moscato d’Asti. This gently sparkling wine offers a delicate sweetness and low levels of alcohol (typically around 5% to 6% abv). That makes it a perfect wine for newcomers, but it’s also a popular palate cleanser for experienced drinkers.

Scroll down to discover 10 awarded wines from DWWA 2025

Yet Moscato’s reputation as a simple sweet wine doesn’t tell the full story.

Producers in California make sweet, approachable wines, but the Muscat family yields a remarkable range of styles: bone-dry, aromatic whites in Alsace, fortified wines in southern France and Australia, vibrant Asti Spumante and much more.

There are even red and rosé Moscatos for anyone seeking something a little different.

Whatever your preference, in the immortal words of Drake, 9 May is the time for 'a celebration, clap, clap, bravo, lobster and shrimp and a glass of Moscato.'

Award-winning wines from DWWA 2025

Australia

Gralyn Estate, Museum Rare Muscat, Margaret River, Western Australia NV
Platinum, 97 points
Intoxicating molasses, sticky date pudding, treacle, coffee and chocolate flavour smoulders and slides over the unctuous palate, punctuated by a soothing orange peel acidity to freshen and a grilled nut, leathery note to juxtapose. Amazing. Alcohol 18.5%

Croatia

Benvenuti, San Salvatore Muškat, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021
Platinum, 97 points
A thrilling array of apricot, orange marmalade, mango and chestnut honey fragrance seeps into the harmonious palate, resplendent in its sweet, yet delicate concentration. Utterly absorbing with a beguiling freshness from the vibrant acidity. Wonderfully persistent. Alc 12.5%

Greece

Uwc Samos, Nectar, Samos, Aegean Islands 2018
Platinum, 97 points
An embarrassment of riches: dried raisins, figs, apricots and marzipan float over the unctuously rich palate, resplendent in its viscous glory. The heady power is tapered by an oozing preserved lemon acidity. Long and finessed. Alc 14.%

Samos Wines, Anthemis, Samos, Aegean Islands 2019
Silver, 94 points
Stylish with complex aromas of cocoa, liquorice, muscovado sugar in sweet spices background alongside shitake mushroom, fig and dates; long-lasting Alc 15%

Italy

Siddùra, Nùali Moscato, Moscato di Sardegna, Sardinia 2022
Platinum, 97 points
Flamboyant and exotic aromas of dried tropical fruits, vanilla, honeyed peaches and roasted almonds. So wonderfully fragrant and enjoyable with a cheeky prickle of effervescence and zippy acidity in the mouth. Lively, expressive and long. Alc 13%

Ca' De Lion, Moscato, Canelli, Piedmont 2024
Silver, 93 points
Pretty nose of fresh citrus, brioche and rose petal; white stone fruit, mandarin and melon on the palate. Alc 6%

Dogliotti 1870, Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont 2024
Silver, 92 points
Inviting, with a nose of fresh chamomile, peeled tangerine and floral notes; palate of stone fruit and sherbet. Alc 5.5%

South Africa

Groot Constantia Estate, Grand Constance, Constantia, Cape Town 2020
Platinum, 97 points
Multitudinous layers of apricot, orange marmalade, elderflower and tulip fragrance pursue the radiant honeyed sweetness with a smooth, emulsifying texture and a quenching watermelon acidity that tingles and energises. Statuesque with glorious tea leaf finish. Alc 12%

Alvi's Drift, Nectarinia Muscat Blanc À Petits Grains, Worcester 2017
Gold 95, Points
Grandiose and genteel with copious sultana, date, syrupy mandarin and orange flower water perfume permeating the luscious viscosity, with a honeyed hazelnut warmth to end. Alc 15.5%

Spain

Jorge Ordóñez, Nº2 Victoria, Sierras de Málaga 2024
Gold 95, Points
Festooned with orange blossom and orange peel perfume that unfurls over the succulent honeycomb palate. A tapering freshness from the grapey acidity glides towards the end. Alc 11%

See all DWWA 2025 award-winning wines

Related articles

Despite significant summer heat and drought, many producers crafted wines with adequate acidity and moderate alcohol levels, thanks largely to early harvesting decisions and, in many cases, naturally small berries with concentrated acids.

As Antoine Médeville, enologist with the Médoc wine consultant Oenoconseil, explained, the pace of the harvest was unusually rapid.

‘We never picked grapes as early or as quickly as we did this year, starting around 15 August,’ Médeville said.

‘It had to happen quickly, as we were already seeing low acidities and wanted to preserve freshness.

‘In a normal harvest, many of our clients would make three passes in the vineyard, but this time, many only did the harvest in just one quick go.’

Such haste and extremes are rarely ideal, and not all wines found their balance.

A longer, more gradual harvest window generally allows for greater precision. And 2025 cannot match such excellent dry white vintages in Bordeaux as 2014 or 2017.

And yet, concerns about the unusually compressed picking period may be somewhat overstated.

The dry white at Château Margaux, for example, showed strong balance and freshness, suggesting that timely decisions could deliver convincing results even under pressure.

As director Philippe Bascaules observed, such conditions are in fact less problematic for whites than for reds.

‘It is enough to harvest earlier,’ he noted, even if a shorter ripening period is not ideal.

He added that hot, dry conditions are ‘more concerning’ for reds than for whites, remarking: ‘Now I finally understand why Greek dry whites are better than their reds.’

Well-timed picking

This perspective helps explain why, even in a challenging year, well-timed picking preserved freshness and avoided excessive alcohol: key factors behind the vintage’s success.

One of my favourite wines from the Médoc is the Brane-Cantenac blanc, harvested between 20–28 August from vines on cooler clay soils, and a marked improvement over the inaugural 2019, which showed a more overtly varietal profile.

Some readers may wonder whether the late August rains played a role, but most producers say they were not decisive, as many white grapes had already been harvested.

‘The grapes were ready to pick before the rains,’ Médeville stressed.

That said, cooler terroirs, whether due to microclimate or deeper clay and limestone soils, allowed for harvesting into early September.

In these cases, producers such as Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier suggest that waiting slightly longer helped to achieve better ripeness and balance.

Outcomes nevertheless vary. While some wines lean toward either softness or angularity, the stronger examples reconcile freshness with sufficient ripeness.

Winemaking choices also proved critical: Médeville emphasised that lees stirring (bâtonnage) played an important role in not only building texture and mid-palate weight, helping to integrate the vintage’s naturally high acidity, but also for binding oxygen and oxidative compounds, slowing down oxidation.

What's new?

Dry whites are one of the clearest growth stories in Bordeaux right now.

2025 marked the first widespread commercial releases under the new AOC Médoc Blanc designation.

White cuvées such as Baron de Brane, Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Caillou Blanc de Talbot and De Malleret Blanc will be designated under the new label.

First-ever or expanded white projects have appeared across the region.

Château Meyney produced Bordeaux’s potentially only Blanc de Noir dry whites – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon vinified as white from silt and gravel soils with a 9,000-bottle production.

Ormes de Pez released the first vintage from newly planted Sauvignon and Sémillon inside St-Estèphe (replacing Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon on 4ha).

Château du Tertre introduced the second vintage (but first EP tasting) of its new white wine project, Alba, a blend of Chardonnay and Gros Manseng on sandy soils as a sister wine to its main white wine.

Château Siran made its first dry white in 50 years – a single barrel of Chardonnay and Chenin bottled as Vin de France.

Château La Lagune launched the first vintage of its white wine made from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc from 3ha of vines grafted in 2023 and a further 2ha grafted last year.

Château Montrose incorporated Marsanne and Roussanne into its blanc for the first time.

Château Léoville Las Cases presented the first vintage of its white white, a project that started in 2019 with the purchase of seven vineyard plots (2.5ha) in the northern Médoc.

It is a blend of 50% Sémillon, 25% Roussanne and 25% Marsanne and will be labelled as a Vin de France.

Its inception co-incided with the arrival of Arnauld Hubert who wrote his thesis on Bordeaux whites for his degree at Bordeaux Sciences Agro, an elite engineering school specialising in agricultural sciences, food, environment and related fields..

Further reading from this report

• Pomerol
• St-Emilion
• Pessac-Léognan & Graves
• Crus Bourgeois
• Pauillac
• St-Estèphe
• Margaux
• St-Julien
• Sauternes

Bordeaux 2025: Top dry white wines

Related articles

During my workday I confess to occasionally procrastinating and daydreaming.

Being a wine lover, much of this idle time is spent shopping for wine to have at home, since at the end of a long day writing about wine, I love to unwind with a glass of the same.

Each wine that I drink at home is bought with a different audience in mind. The most important audience is my wife, and I cook for her most evenings.

Home comforts

It's not always elaborate, and at least once a week, it is a simple roast chicken and salad. It's important to have a workhorse wine to pair with a frequent meal.

This week, it has been a delicious white Burgundy for which I paid the princely sum of $15. The wine was Domaine Thevenet Mâcon-Pierreclos 2023, made from grapes grown at an elevation of 350 metres, and vinified without oak.

The site and the winemaking deliver a wine of almost shocking purity. Even in the warm 2023 vintage, there was an abundance of lemony fruit, a hint of minerality, and no heaviness at all.

This uncomplicated, everyday wine is delicious on its own but also stands up to food.

Host with the most

When friends come over, an côte de boeuf is another favourite – a double-thick, bone-in rib of beef, roasted in the oven with root vegetables and served with haricots verts.

If my friends are knowledgeable about wine, I will reach for something from a ‘name’ producer. A recent success was the Passetoutgrain ‘l’Exception’ from Domaine Michel Lafarge.

The grapes are from Gamay and Pinot Noir vines planted together in the same plot, nearly 100 years ago, between Volnay and Meursault, which the Lafarge family farms biodynamically.

The extraction is gentle, and the wine is aged in well-used casks, yet they coax a wine of resonance and depth from the old vines that goes beyond its regional appellation and makes for a memorable meal, all for $32.

On the town

As a New Yorker, I also love dining out. One of my favourite venues with wine friends is a Cantonese restaurant in Chinatown called Wu's Wonton King.

Proprietor Derek Wu has made a specialty of wonton soup and fresh seafood, much of which comes from the meticulously clean tanks lining the walls.

Live king crab, sea eels, lobster, and steamed whole fish all make an appearance, along with the occasional roast suckling pig.

Cuisine this varied demands a versatile wine, and I will often choose a dry Riesling.

Recently, I have been regaling my friends with magnums of J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Auslese Trocken 2015, which is just beginning to hit its stride, redolent of apricots, lemon peel, and floral notes, and something deeper as well – a hint of earth and iodine, a suggestion of petrol and funk.

With Auslese-level ripeness fermented to dryness before long ageing in neutral casks, this Rheingau beauty shows both power and finesse, transforming a trip to Chinatown into a festive meal.

See what other bottles Charles is drinking at home each week on his website here.

Related articles

A record-breaking performance for South Africa at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2025 has further enhanced the country’s reputation for producing stellar white wines in many different growing regions.

South African winemakers are no strangers to success at the world’s largest wine competition, but 45 Gold medals at DWWA 2025 is a new high. Results also showcased a fascinating white wine scene going from strength to strength in the country.

DWWA Regional Chair for South Africa Fiona McDonald highlighted several Golds for Chenin Blanc, in particular.

'It’s a genuine delight to see how focused the wines are while retaining a sense of style and personality – much like their respective makers!’ she said.

South African Chardonnay was again a strong performer at DWWA 2025. Top medallists demonstrated stylistic nuance alongside core characteristics of elegance and balance. McDonald emphasised a trend for restraint in terms of oak use and ripeness.

‘It’s also cheering to see Sauvignon Blanc and white blends nudge their way into the limelight,’ added McDonald.

Explore a selection of Gold medal winners below, underpinned by DWWA’s rigorous judging process involving leading experts.

Explore the full results from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

Cape Coast

Quoin Rock, Chardonnay 2022

Gold, 95 points

quoinrock.co.za/

Rhubarb crumble, vanilla custard and lemon curd on toast draws you in, with nectarine acidity and a crushed stone mineral note to end. Alcohol 13%

Cape Town

Durbanville Hills, The Tangram, Durbanville 2023

Gold, 96 points

durbanvillehills.co.za

Buoyant leafy herbs and green tree fruits on a softly structured palate. Smoky oak and vibrant white peach meld nicely with the bright acidity. Alc 14%

Spier, 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2022

Gold, 95 points

£27 Vinvm

Steely, cedary and sophisticated on the nose, giving way to lush buttered brioche and lime marmalade complexity on the palate, finishing with crisp juicy apples. Alc 14.5%

Ceres Plateau

De Grendel, Op Die Berg Chardonnay 2024

Gold, 96 points

US$32-$35 All Star, Empire Wine, Tribeca Wine Merchants, Wine.com

Vibrant aromas of crushed flint and chalk cut through fresh citrus, apple and apricot flavours, with nervy acidity and an appetising texture to lift the finish. Alc 13.5%

Citrusdal Mountain

Donkiesbaai, Steen, Piekenierskloof 2024

Gold, 95 points

£26.95-£30 Dunell’s, Frontier Fine Wines

Old vine Citrusdal Mountain character offering plenty of honeyed melon, apple and peach cordial. Superb waxy texture and lime zest acidity, with a long fennel finish. Alc 13.5%

Coastal Region

Bellingham, The Founders Series Freda 2021

Gold, 95 points

bellinghamwines.com

Charming oyster shell and gun flint notes adorn layers of lime curd and a creamy texture. Generous and bold, with savoury tension to the finish. Alc 13.5%

Elgin

Kershaw, Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2021

Gold, 95 points

£45-£54 Great Wines Direct , Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine, Southafricanwines.co.uk, The Savanna, Vinvm, Winoship

Lemon tart, lime leaf and white blossom nuances crown a chalky texture, with vanilla oak, marmalade succulence and striking acidity. Alc 13.5%

Paul Cluver, Sauvignon Blanc 2024

Gold, 95 points

£17 Frontier Fine Wines

Green grass, leafy herbs and citrus play to the crowd, with a persistent buzz of freshness and a central purity that lingers long. Alc 13.5%

Franschhoek

Backsberg, Smuggled Vines Chardonnay 2024

Value Gold, 95 points

US$27 The Wine Concierge

Lily of the valley perfume fringes the melon, apricot and peach fruit aromas. Cohesive and energetic, with tangy lemon acidity and crushed stone elegance. Alc 13.5%

Overberg

Thamnus, Chardonnay 2022

Gold, 96 points

£44-£48 Hedonism, Museum Wines, Swig

A banquet of sumptuous fruit aromas: mango, melon, peach, nectarine and citrus. A juicily mouthwatering texture, invigorated by a flinty mineral grip. Seamless. Alc 13.5%

Paarl

Perdeberg, Endura Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Paardeberg 2023

Gold, 95 points

perdeberg.co.za

Intense peach, yellow apple and orange fruit interspersed with spiced ginger crumbs. Golden and clingy, generous and entrancing with a long, herby finish. Alc 14%

Stellenbosch

Simonsig, Langbult Steen Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2024

Gold, 96 points

£19.50 Lekker Wine

Blossom and honeysuckle floral aromas combine beautifully with juicy melon and white stone fruit, lifted by crisp sherbet acidity. A long, elevating finish. Alc 13%

Ken Forrester, The FMC Chenin Blanc 2024

Gold, 95 points

£44-£60 Widely available via UK agent Enotria

A scrumptious glass of apple compote and honeysuckle with a briny mineral twist, grapefruit acidity to invigorate and a quenching tug of quince to finish. Alc 13%

Rustenberg, Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2024

Gold, 95 points

£13.90-£16 JN Wine, Moura, Vinvm

A depth of pure lemon, white peach and yellow apple fruit, impressive mineral structure and quenching acidity. Captivating. Alc 13.5%

Swartland

Nederburg, Heritage Heroes the Anchor Man Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2024

Gold, 95 points

nederburg.com

Delightful citrus blossom, peach skin and pineapple perfumes layer nicely in a profoundly concentrated palate, offset by fresh acidity and a stylish mineral streak. Alc 13.5%

DWWA 2026 results announced 17 June 2026.

Discover more at awards.decanter.com

I f you’re anything like me – and if you’re in the northern hemisphere – you’ll have spent the past few months warming body and soul against the cold, dark and damp with red wines from the deeper, richer end of the spectrum.

Right now, though, with that first, almost-ticklish warmer breeze filling the air with birdsong and blossomy scents, the wines that have the most compelling claim on my attention are almost always white.

Scroll down for 20 value recommendations perfect for spring

So what do I typically look for in a spring white?

Energy for one thing; freshness, too, and a difficult-to-define feeling that I’ll call ‘flow’.

Technically speaking, that comes down to the level of acidity, and the more mouthwatering the better – although the accompanying flavours and textures will depend, as ever, on what I’m eating and just how ‘spring-like’ the weather really is.

Spring's wine timeline

On those first warm, sunny afternoons, the verdant charms of classic unoaked Sauvignon Blanc seem almost irresistible – so, too, the quicksilver pulse of Riesling and the fresh white peach and Atlantic salt spray of Albariño.

But earlier in the season, with the nights still cool, I’ll be looking for more substance, to go with my creamy-sauced fish or chicken, some fleshier stone fruit and pithy texture, too.

Two barrel-aged styles come to mind: oak-aged Chardonnay, and Sauvignon paired with Semillon in the classic Bordeaux-style white blend – both of which, it seems to me, provide the perfect segue from winter into spring.

20 vibrant spring whites to add to your list:

Related articles

White wine 'the future of winemaking'

When I visited Angelo Gaja in Barbaresco a while ago, he said something surprising: ‘The future of winemaking is in white wines.’

This was an unexpected sentiment from the maestro of Nebbiolo, the great black grape of Barbaresco and Barolo.

Always an innovator, always a visionary, Gaja had already broken with precedent by making two Chardonnays in Piedmont – Gaia & Rey and Rossj Bass – and the Alteni di Brassica Sauvignon Blanc.

Now Gaja has followed the argument’s logic to its extreme by constructing an entire new winery, about 10km southeast of the Barbaresco winery, for producing white wines only.

The new winery, a brooding presence on a hilltop, has the capacity to handle 250,000 bottles and is surrounded by 30ha of vines planted 90% to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with small amounts of indigenous varieties and an experimental plot of Nebbiolo. Overall, it’s a large commitment to the belief in the future of white wine.

'The wine world hasn't settled on a response to global warming'

The wine world hasn’t really settled on a response to global warming yet, but if there’s any consensus, it’s that you can plant higher up, vineyards might face north instead of south, and you might plant varieties that previously were grown in warmer climates.

Warmer regions, though, may be problematic for making white wines, because of a lack of acidity when the grapes reach ripeness.

Sometimes there’s acceptance of the need for change; sometimes there’s denial. Higher plantings are now a reality in Chianti Classico, in Tuscany, where the permitted limit is 700m, although the majority plant up to about 600m. Barolo producers recently decided against allowing the planting of Nebbiolo on north-facing slopes.

Burgundians are completely resistant to any notion that climate change might require a revision of the hierarchy of vineyards based on position on the slope. Bordeaux is too flat to have any option of going higher.

Reversing conventional wisdom

Conventional wisdom suggests that black grapes require warmer conditions to reach ripeness than white grapes.

Indeed, one consequence of climate change has been a move to grow more black grapes in areas formerly associated with whites. Pinot Noir is performing well in Alsace, Sancerre and Baden (southern Germany); in Alsace, some growers are even beginning to have success with Syrah.

The case for whites effectively reverses convention by arguing that, with reds, you have to wait for the skins to reach ripeness, whereas with whites you can harvest on the basis of acidity and ripeness of the juice.

So whites offer better options for harvesting earlier to maintain freshness. There are producers who believe Languedoc in southern France may have more of a future producing fresh white wines, based on earlier harvesting, than reds, where alcohol is being driven up towards 15%.

And whites offer better options for blending, combining older vineyards planted lower down that produce richness from very ripe grapes with newer vineyards higher up that bring acidity.

Gaja’s existing whites are a case in point. Since 1983, the Chardonnays have come from vineyards in Treiso (in Barbaresco) and Serralunga d’Alba (in Barolo). Now they will include grapes from the new vineyards in Alta Langa.

‘We are introducing the new lots to mitigate the effects of global warming and keep the same character,’ Angelo’s son Giovanni says.

The moral is that if you go higher and go northfacing, blending with grapes from existing vineyards can keep freshness in wines without losing historical character. That’s more likely to be a solution for white grapes, because with black grapes there is always the risk of green (underripe) tannins.

This is only the beginning. What will it do to the world of wine if the focus turns from reds to whites? What will happen to the world’s great red wine regions if the locations of vineyards have to be changed and black varieties replaced with white?

If the greatest wines of the past have (mostly) been red, what will be the greatest wines of the future?

In my glass this month

In the past, I’ve found Gaja’s Gaia & Rey Langhe Chardonnay to have a rich, oaky style. Due for release soon, the 2024 vintage is different. The nose is smooth and nutty. The palate moves in a mineral direction, with richness underneath. Oak isn’t obvious. A silky texture underlines a lean style. ‘2024 was a challenge for Nebbiolo, but it was beautiful and expressive for whites,’ Giovanni Gaja says.

Related articles

Valandraud Blanc stands as one of Bordeaux’s most distinctive and collectible white wines so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to attend a landmark tasting of every available vintage since the first in 2003 with the estate’s technical team and owner Jean-Luc Thuenvin last year.

Known for shaking up the Right Bank’s red wine scene in the 1990s with his garage-wine ethos, Thunevin turned his attention to whites in the early 2000s, proving that innovation extends beyond Merlot-dominated reds.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 vintages of Château Valandraud Blanc

From red revolutionary to white innovator

Inspired by prestigious whites like those from Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Margaux that he was selling at the time, and recalling St-Emilion’s pre-AOC history of white plantings (there’s historical references to ‘Sémillon de St-Emilion’ as early as the 18th century), Thunevin replanted parcels with white varieties.

The story thus begins with plantings in 2001 and 2002 on clay-limestone soils in Saint-Genès-de-Castillon and later Lalande-de-Fronsac – parcels technically outside the St-Emilion appellation, if there were ever to be a specific white designation, but close enough to share similar terroir.

Plantings and origins

The first vintage arrived in 2003, with just 585 bottles produced under the original label of Valandraud Blanc No.1. A second wine, initially No.2 and later Virginie de Valandraud Blanc, followed in 2004. Both labels changed to their current form in 2010.

Over time, the project expanded to around three hectares all under the Bordeaux Blanc AOC.

Early blends leaned on Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, but Sauvignon Gris – planted from 2002 onward (going into the blend for the first time in 2007) – gradually became central.

By 2014, it formed the majority in many vintages, lending a distinctive signature: aromatic intensity, exotic fruit notes (think pineapple and lychee), a textured richness (sometimes oily/slightly waxy) and a full body.

The wines also have consistently elevated alcohol levels due to the goal of full grape maturity (often straying into 15% ABV), although balanced by low pHs and extreme freshness.

The stylistic attributes combined with high-density planting in places (up to 13,330 vines/ha in some plots before adjustments), set Valandraud Blanc apart from more classical Bordeaux whites.

The vineyards total 3ha for both wines – 1.8ha in St Genès de Castillon and 1.24ha in Lalande de Fronsac.

Viticulture and winemaking

Viticulture follows eco-responsible principles, now HVE3 certified (with HVE4 targeted). Permanent grass cover, green manuring, and careful copper use preserve aromatic precursors in the grapes.

Harvesting occurs by hand in small 8kg crates over multiple passes through the vineyard for optimal ripeness, with grapes chilled before gentle pneumatic pressing lasting at least five hours.

Fermentation starts in vat before moving to barrel, with no malolactic fermentation to retain tension with a light addition of sulphur at the end.

Ageing lasts eight to 10 months on fine lees (another reason for its distinctive personality) with bâtonnage (stirring) until spring: typically 80% in new barrels (225–500l) for structure and 20% in terracotta amphorae (introduced in 2019, especially for Sauvignon Gris to enhance fruit purity).

Blending for both wines draws from around 40 lots, selected by variety, harvest date, and press quality.

Signature and style

The result is a wine of real personality: often intense and opulent yet precise, with layered and perfumed aromatics of white flowers, peach, spiced pears citrus, and exotic notes from Sauvignon Gris, underpinned by minerality and vibrant acidity.

Honeysuckle, wet stones, struck flint with nectarines, lemon tart, white pepper and dried herbs all allied to a decadently oily texture.

The wines can be both crisp and refreshing as well as rich with a moreish quality.

Early vintages (2003–2010) show more classical maturity, with some evolving into honeyed, creamy profiles, while later ones benefit from the Sauvignon Gris dominance and modern techniques like amphorae ageing and late pruning (from 2020 to counter frost risks).

Vintage evolution and standouts

A remarkable vertical tasting back to the inaugural 2003 vintage revealed a consistent thread of quality and evolution. The wine’s signature emerges strongly from around 2014 onward, with greater aromatic lift, exotic fruit depth, and crystalline freshness.

Standouts include vintages like 2019 (vibrant, complete, with amphora-influenced purity), 2016 (complex, zingy, mineral-edged despite no Sémillon), and recent ones like 2021 and 2023 (electric poise and mouthwatering tension). Even challenging years, such as frost-affected 2017, delivered lifted, floral expressions.

Given the limited production there was no 2004, only one bottle of 2005 (the last at the estate) and no 2012 – it was all sold.

Virginie de Valandraud Blanc offers a more approachable take – crisp, citrus-driven, and excellent value – while the grand vin remains the collector’s focus, produced in tiny quantities (3,000–5,900 bottles annually).

Thunevin’s vision, supported by Murielle Andraud, viticulturist Paul-Marie Morillon, Christophe Lardiere in the vines and winemaking team including Rémi Dalmasso, has created a white Bordeaux that challenges conventions.

Château Valandraud Blanc may lack the historical weight of its red counterpart, but its cult status as one of Bordeaux’s most unique and compelling whites is undeniable.

Château Valandraud Blanc: 20 vintages tasted

Tasting notes are in vintage order youngest to oldest

Related content

Exclusive: Montrose Blanc – reviving a Médoc white wine tradition

A St-Emilion story: Château Pavie profile

Bordeaux 2005: 23 top wines tasted two decades on

I’m curious. Imagine we’re going to have dinner together: aperitif, white wine with the starter, red wine with the second course and a glass of Port (young, vintage) to finish. As I serve the first course, I mention that tonight’s white is from Bordeaux. What’s your reaction? He’s gone for a cheap option? Maybe. It’ll be a soundly made fresh white without much personality? Perhaps. Wow: an intriguing terroir choice! Doubtful. He’s found an exciting alternative to white Burgundy? Improbable.

That’s Bordeaux’s white problem. We’re hazy about it, we struggle to find benchmarks, it lacks precise origin and few nowadays see it as essential to the gastronomic toolkit. Prediction: this will change. And fact: you could have answered ‘yes’ to all of the deductions above. All.

The backdrop? Our world is heating: we want more chilled white wine. According to OIV figures, white wine accounted for 45.6% of global production between 2000 and 2004; that had risen to 49.3% between 2017 and 2021.

In Bordeaux, white wine helps proprietors escape from a marketing prison of haughty grandeur that fails to engage younger drinkers and leaves sommeliers bored and frustrated. White wine allows proprietors to be creative and intriguing; they can surprise and re-engage with consumers. Margaux second growth Château Durfort-Vivens’ beautifully labelled Blanc de Noir is an example: it’s made from Cabernet Franc and Muscadelle, and almost exclusively aged in amphora.

Bordeaux can produce outstanding white wine. Simple blends of Sauvignon and Semillon with a little Muscadelle fragrance can offer compelling satisfaction and drinkability for their price while, at the top of the ladder, the sensual allure of grand Bordeaux whites can be sublime.

The success of dry white wine is already changing the dire economics of Sauternes: Château Guiraud now devotes half its vineyards to dry white, while Château Suduiraut expects to be two-thirds dry white by 2030. Suduiraut’s dry 2020 Vieilles Vignes (see right) sells for about £40-£50 in the UK at the time of writing; to find a white Burgundy of equivalent quality, you’d need to pay at least three times that price.

The arrival, in August 2025, of a Médoc Blanc appellation marks the moment. It covers the eight Médoc APs (Haut-Médoc, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis, Margaux, St-Julien, St-Estèphe and Pauillac) and the rules have been written with more varietal flexibility than the French norm, though three months’ wood ageing for 30% of the blend is mysteriously required.

St-Emilion and its satellites are planning their own appellation extensions for white wines, too. Will it help? Remember that the dry whites of Château d’Yquem (named Y, or ‘Ygrec’ in French) and its Sauternes peers, as well as of Château Margaux (Pavillon Blanc) and Château Mouton Rothschild (Aile d’Argent) all go to market under the plain ‘Bordeaux Blanc’ appellation. This has creative advantages, as does Vin de France (used by Châteaux Palmer and Kirwan for their whites). But it also has consumer disadvantages – notably our inability to tell whether or not the wine in the bottle comes from grapes grown on the stated property, an issue the pan-Médoc Blanc AP won’t solve.

The resurgence of Bordeaux white should, of course, benefit Pessac-Léognan above all. Why ‘should’? The fact that some proprietors here took against Semillon over the last two decades and switched to making Sauvignon-dominated or pure Sauvignon whites was, in my view, a mistake.

The grandeur of white Bordeaux is grounded on a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon: the former for flesh, the latter for brightness, pungency and zest. Take away the flesh, and the wine can be too firm and linear. Plantings take time to resolve, so this situation plays into Sauternes properties’ hands at present. They’re the ones sitting on most of the Semillon – and they have great terroir stories to tell.

In my glass this month

One of my wines of the year for 2025, the Château Suduiraut, Vieilles Vignes Grand Vin Blanc Sec 2020 (AP Bordeaux) is not only a seductive blend (56% Semillon and 44% Sauvignon Blanc, from vines with an average age of 45 years) but also embodies the teasing, creamy richness of a wholly successful oaked white wine. Our family loved its honeyed aromatic allure; its weight and balance; and its seamless leafysmoky complexities. Brilliant with food. You’ll go on sipping once the plates are clean, too.

Related articles

• Exclusive: Montrose Blanc – reviving a Médoc white wine tradition
• Andrew Jefford critiques the ‘NoLo’ trend sweeping the wine world
• Andrew Jefford investigates: Is Germany truly the new ‘Pinot Paradise’ for wine lovers?

Collio, a strip of land in the far northeastern corner of Italy, a border area, a crossroads of peoples, cultures, history and languages.

Sometimes referred to as Collio Goriziano after its main city, Gorizia, but usually simply called, Collio (and not to be confused with Colli Orientali del Friuli), the region is a key DOC within the broader area of Friuli-Venezia Giuli, and one of Italy’s easternmost wine regions.

Termed the ‘Gorizia garden’ because the producers treat the vineyards as they would their own gardens, Collio is a crescent-shaped hilly area located between the Adriatic Sea to the south and the Julian Alps to the north; bounded by the river Judrio to the west and the Isonzo to the east, with its northern edge comprising the border with Slovenia.

It enjoys an ideal microclimate in terms of ventilation and temperature range, with warm weather influences arising from the Adriatic and the Alps protect from colder weather intruding from the north.

Summers are not too scorchingly hot, nor are winters too bitterly cold.

The area also has a particular soil type: a marly-arenaceous flysch, known locally as ponca. This alternation of sandstone and marl gives the wines their unmistakable characteristics: notable sapidity, structure, freshness and longevity.

A land of white wines

The site of ferocious and bloody battles between the Italians and Austro-Hungarians during the First World War, today the peace and beauty of this unspoilt and authentic landscape is striking. There is no single-crop agriculture among these hills and the view stretches across rivers, mountains, pastures and woods.

The annual ‘Collio Evolution’ event – organised by the Collio producers’ consortium – is a tasting focused on the grape variety Friulano, the denomination’s native grape par excellence.

Collio is a land of white wines (and increasingly skin contact/orange wines as well), 89% of the production area is given over to white varieties.

Friulano is one of the standard bearers, but Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Bianca are also widely planted. What few reds there are tend to be based around Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

While the region was pivotal in the popular rebirth of Italian white wines more than half a century ago, a subsequent downturn saw the denomination being overtaken by others.

However, Collio has everything it takes to regain its rightful place at the top of Italian white wines. Below are five examples made from Friulano that show what the region has to offer.

Collio: Five to try

Italy newsletter: Sign up today

Get the best recommendations, vintage analysis, regional and cultural insights and more delivered to your inbox once a month, helping you to stay up-to-date with the latest in Italian wine.

Related articles

• Expert’s choice: Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s native whites
• Where to find great Trebbiano in Italy
• 13 wines to help you understand Sangiovese from Romagna

Château Montrose, in St-Estèphe, has long been synonymous with powerful, ageworthy reds. Yet, this second-growth estate, acquired by the Bouygues family in 2006, is now unveiling a white wine: Montrose Blanc.

This small-production cuvée will revive a forgotten legacy while embracing innovation. It won’t be just another Bordeaux white – a category that has been steadily rising over the past decade.

The family assert it will be a gastronomic statement, estate-driven and terroir-focused, arriving at a time when white wines are surging in popularity across the Médoc.

Historical connection

White wine production at Montrose dates to 1866, when then owner, Alsatian industrialist Mathieu Dollfus planted Riesling vines for his personal use on land typically reserved for reds.

More than a century later, in the 1980s, the Charmolüe family planted Sauvignon Blanc on clay-limestone soils for a small, private cuvée.

‘Montrose Blanc has journeyed through the ages like a well-kept secret,’ notes the estate’s press materials, emphasising the new cuvée as a continuation of this ‘lineage of transmission’.

A tradition revived

The Bouygues family revived this tradition in 2017, planting Semillon and Sauvignon Gris on a dedicated one-hectare plot.

Technical Director Vincent Decup explained the decision. ‘We started with a blank page. Montrose has a big terroir, but we believe that for what we were looking for, for our style, the Montrose DNA and for the owner, these were the natural grape choices.’

In 2023, the team planted an additional 0.5ha of Marsanne and Roussanne, two late-ripening Rhône varieties that ‘make precious allies’ in the fight against the weather and hydric stress.

‘Rhône varietals offer us a concrete answer to the challenge of climate change,’ says Managing Director Pierre Graffeuille. ‘Marsanne and Roussanne are a choice for the future.’ These will join blends from 2026, preserving freshness amid rising temperatures and drier summers.

The project is owner-driven, reflecting Martin Bouygues’ preference for fresh, aromatic yet structured whites with good ageing potential. As much as he is fond of Bordeaux Blancs, he is also a fan of white Châteauneuf du Pape.

Terroir influence

The key to the character of Montrose Blanc is its terroir; the soils of terrace number three (there are six in total in Bordeaux) is one of the Médoc’s top vineyard sites.

This T3 plateau features well-draining sandy gravels over a deep clay-gravel matrix, creating natural water stress that forces deep rooting.

Traditionally used for high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon, the plot was replanted with whites – a deliberate decision to prove that great whites require great terroir.

Decup notes: ‘T3 offers a natural water constraint… compelling the vines to drive their roots vertically in search of water far below.’

Winemaking here is meticulous. Grapes are picked in several passes akin to the harvests in Sauternes, where colour and ripeness are key.

They then undergo horizontal pressing with four cycles, followed by fermentation (and sometimes malolactic fermentation) in barrels and 12 months’ ageing in French oak (usually 30% new), with regular bâtonnage, or lees stirring, for the first two months.

A key element is the inclusion of press wine – rare in whites – which lends a silky texture and seamless tannins, creating an elegant, tactile structure. Malolactic fermentation isn’t carried out every year, just when desired.

Tasting the inaugural vintages reveals this ambition. The 2022, a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, shows bright citrus and white flowers, with a mineral core and fine acidity – impressive for a debut from this hot vintage, though still evolving.

The 2023, the first to be commercialised this year, elevates it. A blend of 58% Semillon and 42% Sauvignon Gris, it displays a pale-gold hue, precise nose of florals and ripe white fruits, and a generously rich and silky palate with integrated, lifted acidity and persistent minerality.

Proof in the glass

Having sampled both, I’m struck by the 2023’s complexity and balance. It’s serious and structured like a fine white Burgundy, yet distinctly Bordeaux in its freshness.

Different from its sister white, Tronquoy Blanc, made nearby, it’s a more powerful, demonstrative wine full of energy but also texture.

The project aligns with Montrose’s broader innovative ethos where terroir comes first – a vision established by Graffeuille upon his arrival in 2023. Within this framework, Montrose Blanc is no exception, fitting naturally into an estate philosophy where every wine is defined by its place of origin.

Montrose Blanc joins the portfolio alongside the Terrasse III red wine, produced as of the 2023 vintage from the same plateau, showcasing micro-terroir precision. This leaves all of the historic terrace four plots for the Grand Vin.

The estate is also addressing climate change. Vineyard restructuring aims to increase Cabernet Sauvignon to 70% by 2050 and reduce Merlot. At the same time, the estate is testing, through dedicated R&D trials, Rhône rootstocks and higher trunk and canopy heights as possible tools to delay ripening.

The Médoc white appellation

Thanks to Médoc whites gaining traction, an Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AP) for Médoc Blanc was approved last year. But Montrose is opting out.

Although Marsanne and Roussane wouldn’t be permitted under the rules anyway, the team are prioritising brand identity over appellation.

‘The identity of Montrose goes beyond appellation,’ said Decup. ‘We look for a balance, a style, a signature DNA more than an AP.’ The style diverges from typical Médoc whites which are predominantly driven by Sauvignon Blanc, aiming instead for density and gastronomic versatility – especially with the inclusion of Marsanne and Roussanne.

In an era where Bordeaux estates must innovate to stay relevant, Montrose Blanc stands out as a thoughtful evolution. Started years ago, it’s only now ready for release – a classy, serious white that will shine on the dinner table.

Production won’t change the estate’s fortunes – it’s small and likely to stay that way with limited plots on terrace three available. But the white enriches its narrative, honouring the past while eyeing a resilient future, proving the château and the Médoc’s versatility.

A full tasting note and analysis of the 2023 will come later this year, following the official unveiling of the wine.

Related content

A St-Emilion story: Château Pavie profile

Bordeaux 2005: 23 top wines tasted two decades on

Wines of the Year 2025: Bordeaux & Burgundy

Following a growing season rife with challenges, 2024 is a catastrophically small vintage, yet there are bright spots that shine through, particularly among the white wines.

Despite concerns raised in some quarters over quality in general as a result of the year’s severe weather conditions, Burgundy lovers may be surprised how many enjoyable wines they will find.

According to Frédéric Drouhin, CEO of Maison Joseph Drouhin, ‘2024 is a vintage of delicacy, sobriety and precision. It is a pleasant vintage in red, and a precise and salty vintage for the whites.’

His wife, Claude de Nicolay, directs her own domaine, Chandon de Briailles, with her brother François. Her view was slightly different: ‘2024 will be a “virtual” vintage – you will almost not see it at all.

‘We lost 90% of the crop and had an average yield of 8hl/ha. There was nothing at all to pick at the base of the slope. But in the end, it is a classic vintage “à l’ancienne”, a character not extinguished by the excesses of the weather.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Charles Curtis MW’s Burgundy 2024 selection

Burgundy 2024 vintage rating and overview:

Whites: 4/5

2024 is a good to very good vintage that has produced whites of elegance and finesse with the structure and the substance for mid- to long-term ageing, comparable to the 2014 vintage.

Reds: 3/5

2024 is a challenging vintage for red wine. The best examples will be found in the Côte de Beaune, although outstanding producers further north have exceeded expectations.

First impressions

After tasting more than 1,400 wines from this vintage, I can say that it is a good vintage for white wines, which have firm acidity, wonderful balance and moderate alcohol.

It was generally a modest vintage for red wine, which could be light, thin and lacking concentration and fruit.

It is above all a highly variable vintage from village to village, however, and surprises abound.

Chablis was hit hardest by the climate in 2024, and the Côte de Beaune fared better than the Côte de Nuits. It seems that the further south one ventures, the better the wines become, and 2024 is a vintage where the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais really came into their own.

Drouhin describes the challenges: ‘We did not produce any wine at all in the grands crus of Clos de Vougeot, Clos de Bèze, or Les Clos in Chablis, and it was difficult for the staff since the pressure was simply too intense.’

Numerous winemakers spoke of the psychological challenge of the 2024 vintage, explaining that they felt they should have been able to do more, somehow, to counter the weather’s excesses – that they might have changed the outcome had they done so.

But on the ground at the time it was happening, that wasn’t realistic, given the very difficult conditions they faced. The best, however, did what they could to deliver delicious wines.

According to the BIVB, total volume produced in 2024 was 1.21 million hectolitres, just over 161 million bottles. This figure was a drop of more than a third from the generous 2023 harvest, although it was more than 20% above 2021, which was decimated by frost.

Read the full report on the Chablis 2024 vintage

Weather Conditions

2024 began with mild temperatures and notably some of the warmest February temperatures ever recorded. March was also warmer than usual, setting the vines ahead of schedule. April, however, saw temperatures plummet, with two episodes of frost at the end of the month damaging some vineyards.

The real challenge began in May, however, as temperatures remained low and rain fell incessantly across the region. Jérôme Flous is the technical director of Domaine Faiveley.

He explains the difficulties: ‘I started at Faiveley in 2007, and 2024 was my most challenging vintage – there were 38 days of rain in May and June. The problem was the flowering; in a rainy year, it is disrupted, the stem is in contact with the air, and mildew can easily destroy the bunch.’

The rain lessened somewhat in July and August, but there were occasional storms, including hailstorms, throughout this period. Another difficulty was the lack of sun: 2024 saw the fewest hours of sunshine since the beginning of the century.

Grapes ripened with difficulty, and most growers used a relatively dry period from 13-22 September to harvest their tiny crop.

Charles’ wines of the vintage:

White: Domaine Jean Chartron, Clos des Chevaliers, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru – 98 points

Red: Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Vieilles Vignes, Musigny Grand Cru – 97 points

Previous vintage ratings:

2023: Whites 4/5 Reds 4.5/5

2022: Whites 4/5 Reds 4.5/5

2021: Whites 4/5 Reds 3.5/5

2020: Whites 4.5/5 Reds 4/5

2019: Whites 4/5 Reds 5/5

Around the appellations

Côte de Nuits

In a reversal of recent trends, conditions in the Côte de Nuits were more difficult than those in the Côte de Beaune. This reversal is mainly due to localised differences in rainfall, which was much higher there, and to the dominance of Pinot Noir, which was more affected by poor flowering and mildew.

Even within the Côte de Nuits, conditions varied, and the southern portion, from the Clos de Vougeot to Nuits-St-Georges, suffered more than the section from Morey to Marsannay.

Top Côte de Nuits producers in 2024:

• Domaine Armand Rousseau
• Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
• Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
• Domaine des Lambrays
• Domaine Dugat-Py
• Domaine Dujac
• Domaine Duroché
• Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
• Domaine Georges Roumier
• Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier

Côte de Beaune

Conditions in the Côte de Beaune were generally better than in the Côte de Nuits, though there was variation here as well. The hill of Corton to the north was extremely hard hit by the weather.

To the south of Beaune, however, conditions improved. The ‘golden triangle’ of Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne had quality and yields much closer to the norm, mainly because Chardonnay (on which these appellations are focused) had a more successful flowering and was less affected by mildew than Pinot Noir.

In the south, Santenay and Maranges produced some lovely wines.

Top Côte de Beaune producers in 2024:

• Domaine de Montille
• Domaine des Comtes Lafon
• Domaine des Croix
• Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson
• Domaine Jean Chartron
• Domaine Michel Lafarge
• Domaine Michel Niellon
• Domaine Pierre Vincent
• Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
• Domaine Rapet

Côte Chalonnaise

Further south, in the Côte Chalonnaise, conditions continued to improve. There were marvellous examples of Chardonnay from Montagny, Mercurey and Rully, as well as some particularly good Aligoté.

Although conditions limited yields for Pinot Noir, conscientious growers were able to produce lovely wines here that should provide solid value and current drinking pleasure, and some that have the substance for ageing.

Top Côte Chalonnaise producers in 2024:

• Château de Chamirey
• Domaine Baron Thénard
• Domaine Belleville
• Domaine Chanzy
• Domaine du Cellier aux Moines

Mâconnais

The Mâconnais is among the brightest spots in Burgundy for the 2024 vintage. Conditions produced some superb examples of Pouilly-Fuissé (particularly among the new-ish premiers crus).

Throughout the Mâconnais, the top growers produced white Burgundy that wine lovers should not miss in this vintage.

Top Mâconnais producers in 2024:

• Bret Brothers & Domaine de la Soufrandière
• Domaine Merlin
• Domaine Deux Roches
• Domaine du Roc des Boutires
• Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
• Domaine Jacques Saumaize
• Domaine Rijckaert
• Domaine Saumaize-Michelin
• Maison Verget & Domaine Guffens-Heynen

Concluding thoughts

The 2024 vintage will remain a vintage apart, if only because of the exceptional climatic conditions. Judging the wines, however, is another matter. As Frédéric Mugnier of Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier put it: ‘Don’t take the word of a winemaker when it comes to [assessing] a vintage, since their opinion reflects their lived experience, and there was no amusement involved in making the 2024 vintage.’

In red wine, the closest parallels would be 2001 or 2013. For whites, the nearest comparison would be 2014, suggesting that it is a vintage to buy reds for current drinking and whites to lay down.

If money is no object, invest in the Montrachet from Domaine des Comtes Lafon or the Chevalier-Montrachet from Domaine Jean Chartron or Domaine Michel Niellon. Among the reds, an obvious splurge would be the Musigny from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé or the Bonnes Mares from Domaine Georges Roumier.

Most wine lovers would also be delighted with mid-range bottles such as the Clos du Château des Ducs from Domaine Michel Lafarge, or the Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Aux Combottes from Domaine Arlaud. Given the limited availability of top wines, it would be advisable to buy en primeur to secure an allocation.

There are also lovely wines further south that will be much less expensive. For whites, don’t miss the Mâcon-Pierreclos from Maison Verget, or the Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru Sur la Roche from Domaine Rijckaert.

Côte Chalonnaise reds such as the Givry Premier Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines from Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, or the Mercurey Premier Cru Clos l’Eveque from Domaine Belleville will be perfect for current drinking.

COMING SOON

Further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Morey-St-Denis | Meursault | Chambolle-Musigny | Gevrey-Chambertin | Pommard and Volnay | Vosne-Romanée & Nuits-St-Georges | Chassagne & Puligny-Montrachet | Best value

A taste of the top Burgundy 2024 wines

Wines were tasted non-blind. Wines are listed in order of white then red, then by scores, and then alphabetically by producer. The 2024s are bottled from January 2026, hence prices, stockists and alcohols are not yet finalised. Contact specialist merchant for allocations or to enquire about en primeur tastings. The following wines were Charles Curtis MW’s selection for particularly notable quality and value among the 650 wines he reviewed from the 2024 Burgundy vintage.

Related articles

• Chablis 2024 vintage report: The must-buy wines from classic but tiny crop
• Why Echézeaux is the grand cru to have in your cellar
• Wines of the Year 2025: Bordeaux & Burgundy

Can a black grape make a white wine? Although the question might seem odd, winemakers have been working with this idea for hundreds of years.

While black/red grapes have dark skins, which is responsible for the colour when making red wine, most (though not all) have white flesh – and therefore white juice. This allows the production of white wines made from black grapes by quickly and gently pressing the grape and avoiding colour extraction.

The practice of using red grapes in still white wine production has been known for centuries, and wines made this way are often referred to as ‘blanc de noir’ (literally ‘white from black’).

Though an established style, it’s not a common one. The white Merlots made in Switzerland’s Lugano region and the use of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to make white Champagne, are among the most notable and famous examples.

But there’s a growing movement based around this concept in the Pacific Northwest of the United States.

From the ashes

In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the relatively cool climate provides ideal conditions for Pinot Noir. Here, the grape is the leading variety, accounting for 60% of the overall planted acreage, according to the Oregon Wine Board.

However, the massive wildfires in 2020 and the fear that skins would retain smoke taint gave this new white wine production a boost, as it gave winemakers an outlet to salvage some of the black grapes from the difficult harvest by just using the white juice.​

The result has been a growing number of ‘white Pinot Noirs’ that, rather than fading away as a one-off expediency, have become fixtures on winery line-ups.

Styles are varied, though many winemakers opt to age theirs in barrel for six to seven months before bottling – which means they’re ready in time for tastings in the spring.

In general, the profile is a clean, bright palate with notes of green apple, mandarin, and honeydew, with balanced minerality and acidity.

A new style for Oregon Pinot Noir

Tony Rynders, the co-founder of Tendril Cellars, was among the first winemakers to make white Pinot Noir in Oregon – long before the 2020 fires in fact.

While he was working at Domain Serene, he met a winemaker from Italy at the International Pinot Noir Celebration in 2004, who told him about the white Pinot Noir production in his region.

‘When he was describing it, the light bulb just went off for me. He didn’t have the wine with him, and I never tasted it, but I thought that it was cool and I wanted to make one,’ said Rynders.

It has become one of the signature wines, and one that Rynders continued to make at Tendril after departing Domaine Serene in 2008. At Tendril Cellars, he calls it ‘Pretender’ because, ‘it’s Pinot Noir, but it pretends to be a white wine’, and sells around 175 cases a year – nearly all of it direct from the cellar door.

He continues: ‘With Pretender, we pick the grapes at full maturity when the fruit is just ripe enough to make red wine. That is how we achieve the rich texture of this wine.’

Rynders does partial pressing and yields only about 60% of the juice used to make the wine. The juice maintains the grapes’ natural acidity and preserves the pH. He then matures the wine in neutral French barrels for 16 months, longer than other producers in the region.

During that period, the wine loses whatever colour it might have acquired during pressing. ‘By not having any poppable colour in our white Pinot Noir allows us to add more shelf life to the wine, a little more of the ageing potential. If there is a colour in these wines, they don’t age as well as they could,’ Rynders explains.

He decided to go even further and officially obtain approval for White Pinot Noir on the label by lobbying the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau.

In 2004, with the first vintage of the wine, he presented the idea to the agency and explained what it was and how it was made. ‘It didn’t really fit into a neat box for them. They initially weren’t going to let us use the term “White Pinot Noir” until I was able to convince them that it was Pinot Noir, just made as a white wine; So it is a tangent of Pinot Noir,’ Rynders remembers.

Still from sparkling

White Pinot Noir is one of the additions that another winemaker in Willamette Valley, Jessica Mozeico, introduced to Et Fille Wines in 2022.

‘It was never on my radar, and I was vaguely familiar with the concept,’ says Mozeico. ‘However, when I started making sparkling wine, I loved the base wine from our Pinot. I thought if I like the aromatics and acidity of this base wine, why not make it into a still wine?’

Mozeico uses the same block of Pinot Noir grapes for rosé and sparkling wine planted in 2003. This side of the vineyard is cropped more heavily to prevent fast maturity and the leaves are left to provide shade.

The grapes for rosé and white Pinot Noir are harvested at the same time. At the winery, these two wines are processed almost identically.

When pressed, Mozeico seeks free-run juice to minimise skin contact. There have been years when she refused to make a white Pinot because she couldn’t drop the colour.

‘There are certain things that I am looking for in this wine,’ says Mozeico, ‘I am looking for white colour, stone fruit aromatics, nectarine, peach, and some early strawberries. But if it starts to get beyond that, I put it in the rosé category.’

A Washington white wine maverick

In Washington State’s Columbia Valley, there aren’t many producers working with Pinot Noir.

The region is largely characterised by hot growing conditions and is a preferred terroir for Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and has become well known for Syrah.

Massalto works with one of the few vineyards to grow the grape there, and it’s the only winery using it to make white wine.

‘It reminds me of a combination of Viognier and Chardonnay. Part of that is the barrel fermentation. But with the notes of stone fruits and citrus, Pinot Noir makes me think of a white wine, actually,’ says Matías Kúsulas, the co-founder of Massalto Wine.

After tasting a white Pinot in Oregon in 2018, Kúsulas and his business partner, Chef Michael Ruhland, decided to make one at Massalto from fruit grown at Solaksen Vineyard, part of the Lawrence Estate Vineyards, where Kúsulas makes the wines at Gård.

Massalto is becoming known for its unorthodox and innovative approach to winemaking (using techniques like pre-and/or extended post-fermentation maceration), evident in the white Pinot Noir.

Along with playing with the harvest time to further drive certain flavours in the wine, in the cellar, Kúsulas tinkers further, pressing whole bunches at different pressures, and choosing between partial and no malolactic fermentation.

All of this experimenting took the winemaker through several harvests before Kúsulas achieved the bold style he sought; something that ‘separates them from the others,’ he says.

​

The 2020 vintage eventually gave him what he was looking for.

Unlike previous years, the fruit was left to hang longer. After pressing, the juice went straight to the barrel and produced a completely different profile than they expected for white Pinot Noir. ‘Very rich, tons of stone fruit with a little bit of citrus, the viscosity, the texture was amazing! It was actually a very serious wine,’ says Kúsulas.

This became the way Massalto makes its white Pinot Noir called Facade. The label’s artwork is a woman with a mask, partially covering her face, like this red grape, pretending to be something else.

A selection of white Pinot Noir:

Related articles

Wines of the Year 2025: North America

Napa Cabernet 2022: Best value wines of the vintage

How did 2025 taste for you? US wine professionals name year-defining styles

White Burgundy is a consistently alluring wine category, but with prices ever on the rise, finding budget Burgundy can be a tricky task.

In searching for white Burgundy under £25, I was pleased to discover that great value still exists without any compromise in quality.

Scroll down for three white Burgundies under £25

Northern Burgundy

Chablis, the northernmost region of Burgundy, has long been fertile ground for good value white wine.

When even the price of Petit Chablis is stretching the budget, however, it may be time to look further afield.

The second grape of Burgundy is Aligoté, which can provide refreshing, vibrant wines.

The Goisot family, from St-Bris, just west of Chablis, is one of the most accomplished producers of the grape.

Its venerable vines (some a century old), in the Kimmeridgian clay soils studded with oyster shells, consistently produce a riveting version of Aligoté.

Aromas run from grapefruit to tarragon, and the wine is superb paired with seafood or simply on its own

Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté 2023

Goisot’s textbook Aligoté boasts pungent aromas of grapefruit, gooseberry and lime peel, with hints of chalky minerals and tarragon. The texture is lively and fresh, and the tangy, salty flavours linger on the finish. The grapes come from 4.5ha of ancient vines (up to 100 years old) in St-Bris, planted in Kimmeridgian soil with red clay and oyster shells; they are gently pressed and fermented entirely in tank. This will drink on release but would gain interest with a few years in the cellar. 93 points

Bourgogne

The Côte d’Or is the heart of Burgundy and is home to its most well-known villages.

Unfortunately, for those on a budget, it also produces its most expensive wines. To succeed in the under £25 category here, we will look for a regional-level Bourgogne.

Regional Bourgogne can be a minefield, and to discover the hidden gems, one needs to know the producers and their wines.

Puligny-Montrachet-based Olivier Leflaive is justly renowned as a master of his craft.

His Bourgogne Les Setilles is named after his garden, and the heart of the cuvée comes from the areas around Puligny and Meursault, blended with grapes from the Côte Chalonnaise and the Hautes-Côtes.

Olivier Leflaive, Les Sétilles, Bourgogne 2023

There’s an appealing Granny Smith apple and nectarine fruit aroma with a hint of white blossom on the initial attack. The texture is surprisingly fresh for the vintage, and the finish is elegantly lovely – astonishing quality given the volume of production. 90 points

Mâcon

No survey of bargain white Burgundy would be complete without a look at the Mâconnais. The most well-known corner of the southernmost Burgundy sub-region is Pouilly-Fuissé, but to unearth top wines at value prices, it helps to look further afield.

Jean-Marie Guffens is one of the legends of the Mâconnais and proprietor of the négociant firm Maison Verget as well as his eponymous domaine.

Verget’s able winemaker, Julien Desplantes, consistently turns out some of the area’s finest wines, comparable to top wines anywhere in Burgundy.

Mâcon-Pierreclos, near their headquarters in Sologny, is one of their specialities, and the entry-level version here, fermented in stainless steel tanks, is a marvel.

Maison Verget, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Pierreclos 2023

The entry-level Mâcon-Pierreclos is a superb example of what the Mâconnais can offer – ripe aromas of apricot and Williams pear touched with a flinty mineral note and a suggestion of Parmesan from the lees ageing. The texture is layered and fine, but not heavy, although the finish lingers pleasantly on the palate. The grapes are from three east-facing parcels of old vines opposite the slope used for the top-level Chavigné cuvée. This latter wine begs for ageing, but this tank-fermented introduction to Pierreclos is perfect for early drinking. 93 points

Related articles

• One to watch: Burgundy’s Solène Panigai
• Burgundy on a budget: 10 tips to buying smarter
• Grand Auxerrois: The go-to region for value Burgundy?

Hanging out at a neighbourhood wine shop in Amsterdam last weekend, I overheard this interaction…

Customer: ‘Hi, I’m buying a bottle as a birthday present for a friend.’

Assistant: ‘Okay, what style are you looking for? Red? White?’

Customer: ‘I was thinking maybe something orange. I know she likes natural wine. She’s into everything organic – that sort of thing.’

The young customer happily admitted that he knew nothing about wine.

But he was more than familiar with the term ‘orange’, and he – or his friend – automatically conflated it with all things natural and organic.

It was a great demonstration of how orange wine has permeated popular culture, in a similar fashion to kombucha, flat whites and sour beers – all specialities that have become familiar, if not necessarily well understood.

Notes and scores for 15 orange wine recommendations listed below

Orange wines are now sold by supermarkets and major wine retailers. Wine-savvy restaurants list them in their own separate category.

They have a significant niche following and, particularly for a younger generation of drinkers, orange is now simply part of the canon.

Nonetheless, orange wine’s rise from obscurity hasn’t been straightforward.

Two key issues, both aptly distilled into that customer exchange, still prove challenging.

One is incessant bickering about the name. The other is that confusion between orange and natural. Are they joined at the hip? Are they the same thing?

Troublesome terminology

Let’s tackle the nomenclature first. Why can’t the wine world agree on a single term?

Pedants insist that we should call them ‘skin contact wines’; presumably that includes reds as well.

Some assert that ‘orange wine’ makes no sense because the wines aren’t always orange in colour; I wonder if they’ve ever set eyes on a white wine that was high-gloss white.

The history buffs earnestly maintain that we must call these wines ‘amber’, out of respect for the popular Georgian name and the technique’s ancient roots in the Caucasus.

I have no particular axe to grind, but ‘orange wine’ has undoubtedly won the popularity contest. And justly so – it’s a short, memorable phrase that slots well into the paradigm of white, red and rosé.

The Oxford Companion to Wine adopts it, as do countless restaurants and winemakers worldwide. Why confuse people with unnecessary jargon?

A related issue is the winemakers who, Groucho Marx-like, don’t want to be part of any club that celebrates them.

In far northeast Italy, Paolo Vodopivec, one of Friuli’s iconic orange wine pioneers, got quite sniffy with me a few years back when we discussed terminology.

He felt that the orange tag aligned him with growers making rustic or faulty natural wines, when his own style is elegant and precise. He added: ‘For me, skin contact is not the end result. It’s just an instrument to allow me to express the grape.’

Not necessarily natural

That brings us to point two. Why is ‘orange’ so inextricably linked with ‘natural’?

Having hitched a ride along with natural wine to global hipsterdom, orange wine is the movement’s poster child.

As a category, it represents the biggest point of difference from the mainstream wine world, where such deeply hued and textured white wines barely exist. But just because it’s orange doesn’t mean it has to be natural.

The term ‘orange wine’ describes a technique, not a style or a creed. That technique – skin-fermenting white grapes (see box, below) – can be deployed to create a multitude of different profiles, from cidery swamp juice to elegant fine wine.

In this respect it’s no different to skin-fermenting red grapes, a technique that’s also used for both mass-produced supermarket lines and quirky, low-intervention styles. While orange wine is a technique, natural wine represents an overarching philosophy of minimal intervention.

Connecting dots

Again there are links. For the winemaker who wants to work without packaged yeasts, sulphites or controlled temperatures, skins are damn useful.

They contain tannins, and thus phenols, that work as antioxidants, and they harbour yeasts native to the environment of the vineyard they grew in. Spontaneous fermentation is simply quicker and more reliable with skin contact.

Tom Lubbe, winemaker-owner of Matassa in Roussillon, explains that he started skin-fermenting his Muscat in 2008 for just these reasons.

Some winemakers feel that white varieties show better origin and varietal characters if the entire grape, including skins, is used.

Among them is Gernot Heinrich of Weingut Heinrich (pictured, above), who uses skin fermentation to allow his white grapes to better express the limestone and chalk soils of the Leithaberg hills in Burgenland, Austria.

Should that surprise you, consider this: if the region’s Blaufränkisch planted on the same soils can express itself better as a red wine (skin-fermented) than as a rosé, why should it be different for the whites?

Heinrich’s first orange vintage was 2011, just over a decade after a group of iconoclastic growers on the Italy-Slovenia border reignited interest in the technique.

Joško Gravner, the late Stanko Radikon, Dario Prinčič and many of their neighbours in Friuli’s Collio region are now world famous.

What is orange wine?

Orange wine is made from white grapes that were fermented with their skins – in essence, it’s a white wine made like a red.

The length of skin contact isn’t the decisive factor, but rather the inclusion of the skins during some or all of the fermentation process, allowing a deeper colour and more intense flavours and aromas to be extracted from the skins during fermentation.

Note that macération pelliculaire, otherwise known as pre-fermentation cold soak, is a different technique that doesn’t generally result in the same flavour, aroma or colour profile.

Meditation wines

A lot has changed in the last two decades.

Gravner was originally inspired by the 8,000-year-old Georgian tradition of fermenting skins, stems, seeds and juice together in qvevris (huge clay pots that are buried underground). His wines, and those of his acolytes, pay homage to this style.

With many weeks or months of skin contact, they have a deep amber/gold colour and serious structure. Flavours tend towards the more savoury, herbal or autumnal. Italians might speak of ‘meditation wines’.

This more substantial style of orange defined the category during the first decade of the 21st century.

Many of the wines from Goriška Brda, the part of Collio on the Slovenian side of the border, occupied a similar stylistic realm. But as the fashion for skin-fermenting white grapes has spread across Europe and beyond, the stylistic range has widened.

Heinrich and his Burgenland colleagues have popularised a more fruit-focused style. Look to Claus Preisinger (pictured, above) or Gerhard Pittnauer for more examples.

Typically based around blends that include aromatic varieties such as Muscat, these wines seduce you with soft tannins and juicy acidity. Skin time is typically short, perhaps a week or two.

This precisely executed, fruity style has spread across central Europe to countries such as Slovakia and the Czech Republic. Zsolt Sütő of Strekov 1075 and Milan Nestarec are two names to know.

Even in the orange heartland of Slovenia, there has been a move away from heavier, more structured wines, as noted by Valentin Bufolin, one of the country’s top sommeliers, now working in wine distribution.

He feels that Slovenian winemakers have upped their game, too: ‘We’ve seen a shift from this archaic type of production to a more modern, cleaner style.’

Serving and enjoying orange wines

For all but the lightest orange wines, serve slightly warmer than your average white. Start between 12°C and 14°C but let your personal taste be the ultimate guide.

Warmer temperatures and a larger glass are recommended for fuller-bodied, tannic styles, such as Georgian ambers or examples from Friuli or western Slovenia. As with heavier red wines, they often benefit from aeration or decanting.

The combination of freshness from white grapes and the structure from the skins makes orange wines extremely versatile on the dinner table. Aromatic oranges are a match made in heaven for intensely flavoured, spicy dishes from Thai or Szechuan cuisines.

Rich or fatty foods such as a meaty lasagne or spare ribs also pair well with tangy, acidic orange wines, the tannins helping to cleanse the palate between each mouthful. And the herbal, earthy or spicy flavours found in many oranges combine perfectly with umami-rich ingredients, such as soy or field mushrooms.

Spectrum of styles

In countries with a more embedded tradition – think Georgia, Slovenia, Italy – the stylistic range is now vast, from rustic and wild to classical and polished.

Ancestral-method styles (bottling wine before it fully completes its fermentation) have emerged from the woodwork in many Italian regions – look to Emilia Romagna or Veneto for a plethora of lightly macerated bubbles.

Winemakers in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the US eagerly took to skin-fermenting their whites, harnessing the textural advantage to offset riper fruit profiles.

Archaic macerated winemaking methods in Armenia, Portugal, Chile and Bolivia have also stuck their heads above the parapet, realising they can now hold them up proudly.

Added to this are ever more major mainstream wineries that have decided to dip their toes into the category, such as Gérard Bertrand in the south of France and Cramele Recaș in Romania.

Some stick to the minimal intervention ethic, others don’t. This can be irksome for the pioneers, especially when these wines appear at budget prices on supermarket shelves.

But imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and if a cheap, mass-market orange wine encourages even the tiniest proportion of drinkers to explore the category, then it’s surely a positive.

A new nebula

Wherever your preferences lie, the diversity on planet orange is now as broad as that in its neighbouring galaxies of white, red and rosé.

But orange has the advantage when it comes to the eternal ‘white or red’ dilemma, as Doug Wregg, marketing director and buyer at UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene, explains: ‘I’m either in a mood where I want tension and acidity, or I want texture and layers. Orange wine is a great intermediate. It gives me everything I want from a red wine, when I don’t actually want to drink a red wine.’

The wines I’ve recommended here are designed to showcase as much of that diversity as possible.

You don’t need to be a card-carrying natural wine fan to enjoy all of them. The modern-day spectrum of orange wine has something for everyone, whatever you decide to call it.

Planet orange: Woolf ’s pick of 15 wines to try, across all styles

Related articles

• Modern Marsala: How an Italian classic rediscovered its verve and attitude
• Exciting, diverse, soulful: My selection of 20 Portuguese wines for winter
• The 30 top highlights from the new Grosses Gewächs releases

Orange, blouge & beyond…

Leader: Amy Wislocki, Magazine Editor

For the second month running I’m going to quote UK importer Doug Wregg, this time on orange wine – see our cover story. ‘It gives me everything I want from a red wine, when I don’t actually want to drink a red wine.’

Unfamiliar as a style to most of us a decade ago, orange wine has moved into the mainstream, with most retailers offering at least one example. (I’m a fan of Bonny Doon’s Le Cigare Orange, from Tesco, and Maturana’s Naranjo Torontel from Corney & Barrow – both under £20.)

I have to confess, though, that I’d never heard of ‘blouge’. Maybe I don’t hang out in edgy wine bars often enough. Are these wines, a blend of red and white grapes (blanc and rouge, get it?), set to be the next big thing? Probably not, but you have to applaud the creativity of winemakers who are willing to tear up the rule book, responding to shifts in consumer demand, and to challenges posed by climate change. With styles evolving in even the wine world’s most traditional corners, we’re here to make sure you’re bang up to date.

See what’s inside Decanter magazine November 2025

In focus

• All about orange Keen to explore this booming category? Simon J Woolf tells you all you need to know to get started
• 10 grapes to discover Caroline Gilby MW introduces a selection of 10 exciting grape varieties, white and red, from Central and Eastern Europe
• Crémant top buys Anne Krebiehl MW recommends 20 great examples of this value Champagne alternative
• Willamette Valley 2023 Clive Pursehouse on a great year for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with 40 picks
• One to watch: The Landing Emma Jenkins MW puts this exciting winery in New Zealand’s north on our radar
• Authenticity, AI & blockchain Elaine Maguire O’Connor reports on the latest technological advances in fight against wine fraud
• Henri Giraud Tom Hewson on a singular Champagne house that is celebrating its 400th anniversary
• My other passion: Daniel Estrin Clive Pursehouse goes mountain biking with the Oregon winemaker

Spirits

• Distilled Spirits news
• Discover soju Millie Milliken on the Korean spirit finding fans overseas

Food & travel

• The Thanksgiving challenge Charlie Fu has some fun pairing wine with turkey and the myriad trimmings
• Travel: Beaujolais Natasha Hughes MW urges wine lovers to visit this dynamic and beautiful region

Learning

• Books etc Reviewer Sophie Thorpe on two books written by sommeliers
• Wine wisdom Expert advice, and ‘The ethical drinker’

Buying guide

• Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings
• Panel tasting: Northern Rhône 2015 An impressive nine Outstanding wines and 26 Highly recommended from the 46 wines tasted
• Panel tasting: Maremma Toscana A lower hit rate in this tasting of white, rosé and reds from the coastal area
• Expert’s choice: Bonarda Patricio Tapia picks 18 delicious examples
• Weekday wines Decanter’s in-house tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink and priced at £30 or less
• Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress
• DWWA 2025 High-scoring Chilean reds, including two Best in Shows

Collecting & investing

• Marketwatch Auction news and new releases, plus Champagne in focus

Regulars

• Writing this month Meet four of the authors from this month’s Decanter
• Uncorked News, inspiration & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column
• Hugh Johnson’s column
• Guest column Jason Millar on terroir
• The Last Drop Celebrity gin, chocolate and wine, and more…

Don’t miss the ultimate wine experience – book your tickets now for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025

Welcome to our 2025 Spain guide

Ines Salpico, Decanter Regional Editor for Spain

It’s been an eye-opening, fascinating year, for reasons both good and bad, a turbulent period, not least across southern Europe’s vineyards, where, after years plagued by drought, wildfires caused heartbreaking destruction.

On the other hand, in the face of such severe challenges, there are signs of strengthened passion and creativity, especially among winemakers in what are, perhaps, unexpected Spanish regions. It’s often what happens on the margins and in interstitial spaces – where there are fewer obstacles to be avoided and paradigms can be reconfigured – that shapes the course of history.

Less burdened with expectations and rules, these are places where creativity and talent thrive, allowing for the creation of forward momentum.

This year’s Spain guide focuses precisely on what’s happening in those fertile pockets of freedom that are fuelling a revision of the Spanish wine canon in exciting, promising ways.

Ferran Centelles’ guest column sets the tone by questioning the orthodoxy of the laws that determine DO-stamped winemaking. It has a perfect companion in Beth Willard’s report on wines without DO. We also explore the resurgence of the Levante in the southeast, the new blood of Ribeira Sacra in the northwest and the revival of Málaga in the far south.

But perhaps my favourite feature is a collection of heartfelt reminiscences from nine expert contributors who aren’t Spanish themselves, describing the wine and/or moment that made them fall in love with Spain’s wine and culture. It captures the meaning of this fascinating industry by showing how vividly it connects with memory and emotion. That connection is even stronger when in Spain – a country where emotions are intense and deep. The pages make the case for innovation, creativity, respect for tradition, sense of identity and industrious rebelliousness. All of which could be considered a much-needed reminder of what truly makes a life well lived.

Inside Decanter’s Spain supplement 2025:

• Writing on Spain Meet four expert authors bringing their views and experience to this year’s Spain guide
• Wine news highlights The latest goings-on, launches, people and publications in Spain’s wine world
• Guest column: Time for change Spain should elevate more of its DOs to DOCa, says Ferran Centelles
• How I fell in love with Spanish wine Personal memories from nine senior wine trade figures and writers: their Spanish ‘madeleine moment’
• The new Levante There are so many wine regions, grapes and stories to be discovered in Spain’s southeast, as DWWA Co-Chair Beth Willard writes
• Drought in Spain A serious issue, but Fintan Kerr reveals how producers are innovating to face the challenge
• Ribeira Sacra It’s tough working the steep slopes here, but the rewards can be great, as Noah Chichester discovers
• Unlikely companions Offbeat food and wine pairings, with Decanter’s Ines Salpico and Jonathan Eichholz MS
• Wines beyond the DO Quality wines and individual styles made outside the DO-regulated system. By Beth Willard
• Panel tasting: Red international varieties in Spain Fruit-forward styles, with 25 Highly recommended
• Travel: In pursuit of balance Noah Chichester reveals why enoturismo can help Spain ease its overtourism issue
• Travel: Costa del Sol Local insight from Shawn Hennessey, who shares her pick of destinations for wine lovers, in the popular tourist destination
• Málaga: the rediscovery Sarah Jane Evans MW urges readers to discover the modern wines of Málaga
• Go-to Spain Decanter staff reveal some of their favourite Spanish wines for everyday drinking, priced up to £25

Subscribe to the print magazine and enjoy great savings today

Pick up a cut-price subscription to Decanter, wherever in the world you are

or

Get access to this issue and previous issues dating back to 2013 with the Decanter Premium app

Gift a Decanter Premium subscription

Unlimited reviews | Exclusive articles | Recommendations | Priority booking

Swiss wine is one of the wine world’s greatest hidden secrets.

This discreet and exclusive country only has about 15,000ha planted to vineyards, according to the national wine body Swiss Wine Promotion, producing around 0.4% of the global total.

Despite the country’s tiny size, there is incredible diversity in its soils, landscapes and grape varieties, creating notable differences among its wines. Its highest vineyard sites are perched above 1,100m.

See Robin Kick MW’s selection of Switzerland’s finest red and white wines

Vertiginous variety

Chiselled into steep hillsides, they provide sun-kissed, well-drained patches of land perfect for grape growing. Lakeside vineyards are bathed in gentle breezes, offering unique microclimates.

The country’s vineyards are spread across six wine regions.

Valais is the largest and is home to the highest concentration of the country’s indigenous grape varieties.

Vaud, the second largest, encompasses most of the vineyards along Lake Geneva’s shores.

The other regions are: Geneva, known for its experimental spirit; Ticino, the heart of Swiss Merlot; Three Lakes, which includes lake Neuchâtel, is a top area for Pinot Noir; and finally Deutschschweiz, a region that encompasses several German-speaking cantons, including Graubünden, Zurich, Schaffhausen and Thurgau.

Great grape diversity

Swiss Wine Promotion notes 168 grape varieties currently registered by the national Federal Statistical Office for use in the canton-based AOC system, although fewer than 100 are planted on an area of at least 2ha.

Many varieties are indigenous, and at more than 3,400ha Chasselas (called Fendant in Valais) is its most planted white grape.

Though it can be shy when young, exceptional versions from top terroirs are capable of ageing for many years, revealing notable complexity.

Chasselas is the variety to pair with sumptuous cheese fondues, but its food-friendly style makes it capable of accompanying many other dishes, such as lake fish and seafood.

Over the past 15 years or so, Petite Arvine has been winning over aficionados’ hearts and palates with its crisp acidity, peachy core and saline finish.

But there are so many other varieties worth seeking out: Räuschling, Humagne Blanche and Amigne, as well as Heida (aka Païen or Savagnin) to name a few.

Beguiling reds

Reds can be beguiling, too. Cornalin, whose origins are not entirely defined but are thought to lie in neighbouring Aosta in northern Italy, has taken on its own deep, vinous personality in Valais.

Well-known international varieties such as Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot can also produce world-class results.

Less constrained by the traditions that define many of its neighbours, Switzerland approaches wine with pragmatism and a spirit of innovation.

Agroscope, the country’s trailblazing research institute, has introduced pioneering grape crossings over the years, such as Gamaret, Garanoir, Diolinoir and Doral, alongside resilient Piwi varieties such as Divico – crafted with ecological sustainability in mind.

While less than 2% of Swiss wine leaves the country, its rare gems are increasingly making their way onto international shelves – especially in the UK, US and Asia – while also garnering more attention thanks to the accolades they’ve received from competitions such as the Decanter World Wine Awards.

There has never been a better moment to discover the singular charm of Switzerland’s wines.

Breath of mountain air: 18 Swiss wines to try

Related articles

• From Alps to lake: A wine lover’s guide to Lavaux
• Zürich: A wine lover’s guide
• Verbier for wine lovers

Amanda Barnes MW, Florencia Gomez and Benjamin Gubbins tasted 150 wines, with 17 Outstanding and 99 Highly recommended

South American premium white: Panel tasting scores

150 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 17

Highly recommended 99

Recommended 31

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were requested to submit their dry white wines from any South American country and region, including all Geographical Indications, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$20. Skin-fermented wines from white varieties were also welcome.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our South American premium white panel tasting

While South America is still best known for its reds, this tasting proved just how exceptional the continent’s white wines have become.

What made the tasting so exciting was its wide scope, highlighting the remarkable diversity of styles, varieties and terroirs shaping the continent’s white wine scene.

Of the 17 Outstanding wines, seven were Chardonnay, reflecting growing refinement in the variety. As Flor Gomez noted, the best examples were ‘modern, without ever lapsing into excess’.

Another standout category was Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, which scooped several top scores. ‘They were a real revelation,’ said Benjamin Gubbins, ‘with outstanding quality and character.’

White blends with Rhône and Criolla varieties also shone, as did several Uruguayan Albariños, which Gomez described as ‘full of varietal precision and charm, deserving of a spot on any serious seafood restaurant’s list’.

Beyond the varietal and regional spread, the tasting reflected impressive creativity in the cellar. More than a dozen of the wines showed some flor influence (biological ageing under a surface layer of yeasts), lending a saline edge and linear drive – a quality I think particularly benefits these sunny climates.

Others embraced long ageing in oak foudres or clay amphora. ‘It was a dynamic, wildly enjoyable flight that showed technical mastery and adventurous spirit,’ added Gomez.

Gubbins agreed, noting the relative absence of duds: ‘My overall impression was one of consistent quality and refinement – and no shortage of creativity!’

We were delighted by the combination of classics and wines with individuality and flair. There was not only breathtaking diversity, but also remarkable value for money.

As the high scores reflect, South America’s premium whites are definitely worth getting excited about.

What to eat with South American white wines, by Fiona Beckett

So many different styles of wine scored highly in this tasting that it’s impossible to suggest matches for them all, so let’s take a look at some of the less common ones.

Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon blends, for instance, might well be the ones to turn to with Peruvian-inspired cooking, which often blends Japanese and other Asian influences with local seafood and other indigenous ingredients.

Scallops would be a particularly good pairing. Albariño is also a reliable go-to with seafood (try it with moqueca, Brazil’s iconic seafood stew), while aromatic Torrontés comes in useful with ceviche (better, typically, than with citrussy whites such as Sauvignon, which can clash with the citrus in the marinade).

Wines that exhibit some flor influence generally develop an umami character that works well with Japanese food, while amphora-aged and other skin-contact wines could well be ones to sip with empanadas.

There’s so much creativity in these wines, you can afford to be experimental with the pairings.

See notes and scores for more high-scoring wines from our South American premium white tasting

South American premium white panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes MW is a wine writer, presenter and consultant. Author of the awarded South America Wine Guide (£35 southamericawineguide.com), she is a regular Decanter contributor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile

Florencia Gomez is the founder of London-based wine brand marketing agency Grand Crew Studio. A qualified and internationally experienced winemaker, she is also a DWWA judge across South American categories

Benjamin Gubbins is general manager at Vagabond Wines and heads its WSET education programmes in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Related articles

• Susanna Balbo Signature White Blend: Talking about a revolution
• Leo Erazo: Inspired by Itata and Chile’s wild south
• Value South American reds: Panel tasting results

Ribera del Duero might be synonymous with red wines. Yet, one of the region’s fastest-evolving styles comes in different shades of yellow and gold.

The emergence of Ribera del Duero whites is, above all, an inevitable consequence of the renewed engagement with the local viticultural heritage and winemaking traditions.

The effort to preserve old, neglected old vineyards – many of them intriguing field blends – has expanded the winemaking palette beyond Tinto Fino.

White variety Albillo Mayor is now claiming its rightful place as one of the region’s leading varieties – in quality if certainly not in quantity.

With 353ha planted (2024 data) against 25,615ha of Tinto Fino, Albillo Mayor accounted for less than 1% of production in the 2024 harvest (609,395hl of a total 95,496,603hl).

Indeed, in the past couple of decades the vineyard area has steadily decreased.

Considering that most white grapes can be found in older plots, this trend is a worrying symptom of the abandonment of old vines that a new wave of producers is determined to stop.

Feedback effect

Albillo Mayor’s contribution goes beyond the exciting wines it can produce though. Blended with Tinto Fino (either in the field or in the cellar) for both reds and claretes (wines produced by co-fermenting reds and white grapes, stylistically falling between an intense rosé and a light red), it’s become an essential element in the pursuit of finesse and balance.

Also interesting is how this ‘white wine revival’ is informing the choices and palates of winemakers more broadly. Many of the producers we spoke to are playing with Albillo, using its skins as pied de cuve for red fermentations (using already fermenting must to kickstart a new fermentation) and/or using barrels previously used for white fermentation to age their reds.

Are we on the cusp of Ribera del Duero’s own ‘white revolution’?

The numbers above suggest that this is not the case. But the stylistic and cultural impact of this yet timid revival cannot be underestimated.

Setting the bar high

It’s hard to offer a conclusive assessment of current white wine production in Ribera given that only 15 of the 316 wines we tasted were white (all single varietal Albillo Mayor).

Still, the tight line up made a strong case. The baseline quality is notably high and the best examples show both strong sense of place and ageing potential.

Albillo Mayor’s textural appeal and affinity with wood (and indeed other fermentation and ageing vessels) make it an obvious candidate for expressive, ageworthy fine white wines.

Our top-scorers successfully combined concentration, texture and phenolic grip to deliver both moreish intensity and smoky finesse.

A word of encouragement

Less than a conclusion, this year’s report delivers a message of encouragement for producers, many of whom are still approaching the category tentatively.

The fact that we tasted many (outstanding) barrel samples and ‘unreleased experiments’ is testament both to this hesitation and to an incredible potential, yet to be fully unleashed.

Looking ahead to our future reports, we hope producers embrace white wine production (and Albillo Mayor) with confidence and determination, not just as an experiment or afterthought.

Ribera del Duero Report 2025: The whites

Related articles

• Ribera del Duero adopts the new old ways
• Ribera del Duero Report 2025: Our experts’ favourite new wines redefining this premium Spanish region
•  Collector’s Guide: Spain

Italian white wines are grabbing more of the international spotlight alongside the country’s famous reds, as shown by the diversity of styles winning top medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025.

DWWA is the world’s largest wine competition and its rigorous judging process, involving leading experts in their field, offers an unparalleled mark of quality for wine lovers, as well as a benchmark for wineries.  

After medal success last year, Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige / Südtirol region showed again why it should be on every white wine lover’s travel bucket list. 

Cantina Terlano’s ‘Lunare’ Gewürztraminer 2023 won one of 50 Best in Show medals at DWWA 2025. These coveted prizes were given to just 0.3% of all wines blind-tasted by judges. 

Soft acidity married with gentle orchard fruits give this wine a ‘midweight rather than unctuous’ texture, said judges. ‘You can sense the mountains and the fresh air all about,’ they added, enjoying the wine’s ‘commanding but harmonious aromas’.

Scroll down to see full tasting notes on Best in Show and Platinum medal winners

Try pairing it with sweet and sour Asian-style cuisine, grilled swordfish or roasted pigeon breast served pink, said Cantina Terlano, a growers’ cooperative founded in 1893.

This group also won Platinum for its Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2022 – combining Pinot Blanc (Bianco) with Chardonnay and a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc – plus four Gold medals.

Italian dry white wines saw five Platinum medals in total at DWWA 2025. Similar to Best in Show, the Platinum tier represents Gold medal winners that have been elevated following an intense second round of judging by senior experts.

Cooperative winery Cantina Kurtatsch scooped Platinum for its Freienfeld Chardonnay, Alto Adige / Südtirol Riserva 2022, sourced from top Chardonnay vineyards around the village of Kurtatsch. 

‘Oozing poise and charisma,’ said DWWA judges. The group also won two Golds, including for its Brenntal, Gewürztraminer Riserva 2022. 

Staying in the north-east, Muzic winery won Platinum for its Valeris Friulano 2023, from a 0.5-hectare plot of 60-to-80-year-old vines in Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia. 

‘Magnificent layers of smoky-toned golden fruit and delicate floral hints which swirl and disperse over the creamy, juicy texture and voluptuous structure,’ said judges. 

It’s the second consecutive Platinum for this wine, after the 2022 vintage won at DWWA 2024.

Other Platinum winners showcased Sardinia and Le Marche. From Sardinia, judges enjoyed the rich texture and ‘salivating beam of acidity’ in Siddùra’s Maìa, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG 2023, made with 100% Vermentino. 

In Le Marche, judges described Cantine Belisario, Cambrugiano, Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG 2021 as ‘very long and accomplished’. 

White wines from this eastern part of central Italy also saw four Golds at DWWA 2025, including La Canosa, Viridis, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2024. ‘A classic style: bitter almonds over ripe stone fruits which liaise nicely with the creamy texture and firm grip of acidity,’ said judges.

Michael Garner, Italian wine expert and Regional Chair for Northern Italy (excluding Piedmont and Veneto) at DWWA 2025, said Italy’s white wine scene has developed strongly. 

‘It’s easy to forget that legendary winemakers like Edoardo Valentini, Silvio Jermann and Nino Pieropan were producing great white wines 50 years ago and more. 

‘But it’s no longer about a few individuals and we have seen a huge leap forward in quality throughout Italy over the last few decades. Every region has its own specialities, each one of them individual and distinctive.’

A total of 36 Golds for Italian dry white wines at DWWA 2025 offers plenty of scope for discovery and exploration. 

Alto Adige / Südtirol was again well-represented. ‘It’s great to see some of the lesser-known varieties doing so well,’ said Garner, offering some of his personal highlights.

‘I’m a big fan of Sylvaner from the Valle Isarco. It’s a really under-rated grape, so to see two Gold medals in this category was very gratifying.’ 

Those Golds went to Abbazia di Novacella, Praepositus Sylvaner 2023 and Cantina Valle Isarco, Aristos Sylvaner 2023.

Garner added, ‘Thanks to the wonderful growing conditions there, a bevy of gold medals for Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon from the Alto Adige also showed the area’s massive potential for producing different types of fine white wine.’

Beyond regions already mentioned, there were Golds for wines emanating from parts of Lombardy, Veneto and Piedmont, plus Tuscany and Sicily.

In Veneto, Vignaioli Contra’ Soarda scooped Gold for its Vignasilan 2017, a 100% Vespaiola wine sourced from a single vineyard on volcanic soils. ‘A stunning evolution of dried orange blossom, candied lemon zest and honeyed peach,’ said DWWA judges.

Sticking with the volcanic theme, Gold medal winners in Sicily included Carricante-driven Tornatore, Pietrarizzo 2022 in the Etna Bianco DOC. 

Judges said, ‘Deeply expressive preserved lemon and apple blossom aromas garnish the nose with an amazing concentration of chalky, volcanic minerals sweeping over the textured, super-fresh palate.’

There was also Gold for Piedmont’s Cantine Volpi, Derthona La Zerba Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi DOC 2023, plus a 100% Tuscan Chardonnay wine: Frescobaldi, Benefizio, Pomino Bianco Riserva DOC 2023.

While this article focuses on dry styles, readers may also wish to explore several top medals for Italian sweet wines, led by a first Best in Show medal for Passito di Pantelleria. Judges described the Donnafugata, Ben Ryé 2023 as ‘thick, liquorous and unctuous, though still bright with that intense orange fruit’.

Search all Italian medal winners at DWWA 2025

DWWA 2025: Six top-scoring Italian white wines

Cantina Terlano, Lunare Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige / Südtirol DOC, Trentino-Alto Adige / Südtirol 2023

97 points | Best in Show

DWWA judges said: Two years in a row for a Best in Show Gewürztraminer from Italy’s Alto Adige – but in contrast to last year’s succulent passito laureate, this year’s pick is a dry wine. The secret to great Gewürztraminer is giving it plenty of ripening time; this is not a wine in which acidity need necessarily play a significant role, as its balance is going to be supplied by texture, perfume, unction, sometimes tannin and ‘noble’ bitterness. Acidity does, as it happens, feature as a part of this wine’s make up, though in soft style, fully bonded with the wine’s gentle orchard fruits; that means that its texture is midweight rather than unctuous, and you can sense the mountains and the fresh air all about. Its commanding but harmonious aromas make as much allusion to flowers as they do to gingery spices, and the wine is more vinous than tannic. That soft-falling bitterness is there on the finish, sweeping up after the fruit and keeping the wine’s passage through the mouth clean, neat and tidy. Alcohol 15% abv.

Cantine Belisario, Cambrugiano, Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG, Le Marche 2021

97 points | Platinum

DWWA judges said: Exemplary aromas of honeyed nuts, lemon, lime and fennel with a supreme drive of freshness and purity which ebbs and flows alongside the stylish mineral structure and zingy nettle acidity. Very long and accomplished. Alc 13.5%.

Cantina Kurtatsch, Freienfeld Chardonnay, Alto Adige / Südtirol Riserva DOC, Trentino-Alto Adige / Südtirol 2022

97 points | Platinum

DWWA judges said: Spectacular nutmeg, vanilla and crème brûlée characters pervaded with flashes of zesty citrus peel and fresh cut grass. Honeyed and rich on the palate with an intense mineral backbone and lithe acidity. Oozing poise and charisma. Alc 14%.

Cantina Terlano, Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva, Alto Adige Terlano DOC, Trentino-Alto Adige / Südtirol 2022

97 points | Platinum

DWWA judges said: A joyous sotto voce nose of spring meadow flowers sprinkled over the unbridled purity of ripe pineapple, Meyer lemon and green apple fruit. Saline elements infuse the structure and acidity and proceed towards the lengthy finish. Alc 14%.

Muzic, Valeris Friulano, Collio DOC, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2023

97 points | Platinum

DWWA judges said: Outstanding splendour, evoking fennel and tarragon herbs, jasmine florals and ripe red apple fruit, all of which carry through to the refined palate. Salivating and vibrant with a velvety texture, finely-beaded acidity and visceral gravelly length. Alc 13.5%.

Siddùra, Maìa, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG, Sardinia 2023

97 points | Platinum

DWWA judges said: Beguiling granitic austerity meets sumptuous yellow stone fruit with a sultry citrus backing. Richly textured from the enhancing layers of creamy oak which melt into the salivating beam of acidity that surges towards the finish. Alc 13.5%.

Related articles

• Decanter meets: Cantina Terlano’s Klaus Gasser & Rudi Kofler
• UK sparkling wines toast vintage year at DWWA
• Wines born of fire: DWWA 2025 winning volcanic whites

As we wade through the sticky, sultry dog days of summer, the allure of cool and refreshing drinks becomes not just more tantalising, but necessary.

And perhaps you’re currently feeling a little jaded by just the one style of wine you’ve been drinking over the past few weeks, too hot and bothered to muster up the brain power to try anything else.

A long, hot summer can be an awfully long time to constantly drink just the one rosé after all.

So if you’re stuck in a summer rut, here are three top tips to find something else to shake up your summer evenings and languid days by the pool.

Subscribe today for full access to all Premium articles

1. Wines made by the sea

It sounds obvious or perhaps rather silly, but wines made from coastal regions really do seem to have the juice when it comes to the best styles of wines for summer sipping.

Is it the varieties’ intrinsic nature? Does proximity to the sea really give them a salty tang?

Are winemakers in these areas just more clued-in to the style of wines that work best with your feet in the sand and the roar of the surf in your ears?

Maybe a mix of it all?

Either way, there’s no doubt that if you want a great wine for the summer, think of places beside the sea as a good starting place.

There are loads of wines which just scream summer and beach holidays, accompanied by fresh seafood.

There’s Vinho Verde from northern Portugal, Txakoli from Spain’s Basque country, Muscadet from the Loire.

Heading into the Mediterranean we have the refreshing salty lick of Manzanilla Sherry, the herbal freshness of Xarel-lo in Catalonia, brisk Picpoul de Pinet and pale rosé from the southern French coast, stony Vermentino from Sardinia and Tuscany and the kaleidoscope of varieties from the Greek islands.

2. The faraway Mediterranean

And that’s just Europe we’ve been talking about. But don’t forget that much of the winemaking world operates on the same principals and proximity to the ocean in the warmer climes of the Americas, Africa and Antipodes is often essential to help moderate the temperature.

As such, a great many non-European regions are also seaside wines par excellence.

This is particularly true when many of these Mediterranean-esque regions are also producing wines made from grape varieties you’d expect to find in Europe, such as Albariño – which has seen an increase in worldwide plantings in recent years.

Large chunks of California, the Chilean littoral, the Cape in South Africa, Western and South Australia and the islands of New Zealand are great places for crisp and refreshing whites made from Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Semillon and so forth.

3. Beyond Provence

Finally, a word on rosé. Provence set the bar years ago with its brilliantly pale and limpid pinks.

These boosted rosé from being one of the has-been afterthoughts of global viticulture to a runaway hype-train of luxury labels and copycats.

But popularity comes at a price and Provence is now at a premium. However, you don’t have to look far to find wines that are essentially identical.

Both the nearby Languedoc and Roussillon produce extremely delicious rosés in much the same style as Provence and with the same grapes but for a fraction of the price.

Indeed, such has been the impact of pale Provence rosé, that around Europe and the world, you can now find your desire for chillable pink fulfilled by pretty much every country and region mentioned above.

Remember that Liz Gabay MW gives us a rundown each year not only of her pick of the latest Provence rosé releases, but her selection of the best rosés from around the world.

Below is a selection perfect summer white and rosé wines that have been tasted recently by the Decanter team or one of our esteemed experts.

With any luck it’ll give you some extra inspiration for something new to put in the fridge before the summer is through.

Decanter Cellar: 25 white and rosé wines for summer

Wines are listed white then rosé in score order

Related articles

• Provence white wines: Panel tasting results
• The rise of Bordeaux white wines
• The hidden wine gems of the Italian coast

The greatest grapes, like the most influential leaders, will only achieve widespread adulation if they can perform under a diverse range of conditions.

Ideally, they should possess characteristics that appeal to experienced enthusiasts and neophytes alike.

There’s a reason why Chardonnay, for instance, is the most-planted white grape variety in the world (other than Spain’s Airén, which is used in brandy production).

Depending on how and where it’s grown, it can be profound, rich and ageworthy, or fun, bright and ready-to-drink.

Albariño, while hardly threatening to usurp Chardonnay’s crown as king of white grapes, is gaining acclaim across the world, for many of the same reasons.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 18 superb Albariño wines from beyond Spain

The ancient grape (known as Alvarinho in Portugal) came to prominence on the Iberian peninsula. For centuries, it has dominated plantings in Rías Baixas, in northwestern Spain, and Vinho Verde in Portugal’s far north.

But now Albariño’s dominion is expanding, as winemakers across the globe embrace its versatility.

Albariño’s litheness in the vineyard is mirrored in the cellar, with expressions ranging from complex and elegant to fun and zippy, depending on when and how the fresh, fruit-forward grape is harvested, fermented and aged.

California

Albariño plantings have been on the rise for years in California. According to the most recent annual report from the US Department of Agriculture, in 2024 there were 280ha under vine.

This is up from 124ha in 2015 – an increase of 126%. It thrives particularly well in Lodi, which produced 33% of the state’s total last year, according to the Lodi Winegrape Commission.

Markus Bokisch (pictured, above) of Bokisch Vineyards was one of the first to identify Albariño’s promise in California, bringing it to Lodi from Rías Baixas in 1998 and harvesting his first Albariño grapes in 2000.

Having previously worked with the variety in Penedès and noting how easy it was to grow, he felt sure that it could work in Lodi’s hot conditions – even if a little tweaking might be required.

‘Climatically, we’re not Rías Baixas, so even though the soils match, we knew that we’d have to make adjustments to get the results I wanted,’ Bokisch explains.

‘We hit [ripeness level] 21 Brix in August, one month earlier than Galicia, so that’s when we picked it, even though the grapes were just showing precursors to the aromatics we wanted.’

The experiment was a revelation, yielding tasting notes that didn’t make immediate sense. ‘I always assumed the brininess of Albariño from Rías Baixas came from its maritime location, but clearly it’s not coming from sea mist,’ says Bokisch.

‘We get the brininess here, which means it must be the soil. Some of the fruit flavours you expect are also dialled up, kissed by California sun,’ he adds. Rather than lemons, Albariño in Lodi may show tangerines, or grapefruit in cooler years.

California Albariño to seek out: Bokisch Vineyards, Imagery Estate Winery, Scheid Vineyards, Tangent.

Oregon

Further north on the US west coast, Oregon is also embracing Albariño’s potential, with Abacela winery leading the way.

While there are now just 63ha planted, according to the 2024 Oregon Vineyard & Winery Report, what exists is beloved by growers, merchants and consumers.

‘We bought the property in the Umpqua Valley because my dad thought it would be promising for Iberian varieties,’ says Greg Jones, CEO of Abacela (pictured, above). ‘We couldn’t find any good Albariño initially.’

But then he located a source for an alleged ‘suitcase clone’ [grapevine cuttings imported illicitly, bypassing official phytosanitary restrictions] that had been secreted into California during the 1990s.

Abacela planted in 2000 and now has about 5.2ha thriving across the estate. ‘Comparing our results with Galicia, the phenology performance is very similar, with bloom, veraison and harvest happening here within one to two days of Galicia,’ he says.

‘Our soils are slightly older, but rainfall, and growing temperature and degree days are very similar.’

In the glass, saltiness is less prevalent in Oregon, but the liveliness and Meyer lemon flower power is there. Acacia wood ageing brings notes of apple and pear, and rounds out some of the hyperactive zing.

Other producers, such as Cyler Varnum, co-owner of Varnum Vintners in the Willamette Valley, are turning to Albariño because of changing climatic conditions.

‘The warming trend in the Willamette Valley is impossible to ignore,’ he says. ‘We’re experimenting with fermenting and ageing for six months in neutral French oak, and partial skin contact, which improves texture and softens the acids.’

In the glass, Oregon Albariño is generally more round and fruit-forward than its Galician counterpart. It is slightly less saline but as bright and fresh, with added texture and complexity thanks to innovative ageing.

Oregon Albariño to seek out: Abacela, Analemma Wines, Varnum Vintners.

Uruguay

In 2002, winemaker and director of Bodega Bouza Dr Eduardo Boido planted Uruguay’s first Albariño.

Today, one winemaker growing 0.87ha has expanded to 38 winemakers and growers cultivating 95ha, according to data from INAVI, Uruguay’s National Viticulture Institute.

Boido pioneered Albariño because of the family’s Galician heritage and its belief that the grape would thrive in Uruguay’s rainy climate. ‘Its loose clusters and small berries with thick skins make it well-suited to adapting to climates like ours,’ he explains.

Plantings have ticked up as other producers, such as Bodega Familia Deicas and Bodega Garzón (pictured, above), have invested in both single-variety expressions and white blends that highlight Albariño.

While Bouza opts for a bright, party-ready expression of young Albariño (fermentation is mainly in stainless steel tanks with selected yeasts),

Deicas is tending more towards deep aromas and ageworthy elegance (spontaneous fermentation happens in Burgundian oak barrels, then the wine is aged for 15 months in barrels).

Across the Canelones region, terroir factors such as proximity to the Atlantic, and diverse set of volcanic and granitic soils, are making for some seriously exciting Albariños.

Uruguay Albariño to seek out: Bouza, Familia Deicas, Garzón.

Chile

Albariño made its way into Chile as late as 2009, with the first 0.47ha registered in Maule, according to Wines of Chile.

The Catastro Vitivinícola Nacional, Chile’s national vineyard statistical survey, records that plantings have now increased to 17.4ha, out of 124,436ha – still a minuscule percentage, but a sign of enthusiasm.

‘Interest is clearly rising among both winemakers and sommeliers, particularly as the market looks for fresh, distinctive white wines with character and versatility,’ says Julio Alonso (pictured, above), executive director for Wines of Chile North America, adding that producers are most eager to explore coastal areas with granite-based soils.

‘The variety’s natural freshness, balanced acidity and elegant aromatics resonate well with today’s consumers, who are shifting toward lighter styles with strong mineral expression,’ he says.

Albariños from powerhouse premium producers such as Montes make the most of cool nights, ancient granitic soils and proximity to the ocean (the company’s Zapallar estate in Aconcagua is 11km from the Pacific) to produce fresh, saline wines with more vibrancy, tension and defined minerality than their Spanish and Portuguese cousins.

Chile Albariño to seek out: Garcés Silva, Montes, MontGras.

New Zealand

Plantings of Albariño in New Zealand are relatively small, but generating excitement.

There were 75ha under vine in 2024, up from 64ha in 2023, according to the 2024 New Zealand Winegrowers Vineyard Report.

The first planting occurred as recently as in 2009, but already Albariño can be found throughout the country, with particular concentrations in Gisborne, Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay.

Nelson’s Neudorf Vineyards, which farms organically, sees great promise in Albariño’s flavour profile and natural fungus-fighting abilities.

‘We first planted it in 2013, because it suits the Nelson profile beautifully,’ notes sales and marketing director Rosie Finn (pictured, above).

‘We have slightly higher rainfall than Marlborough and long sunshine hours. Albariño has naturally thick skins, which makes it hardy in tougher vintages and is especially helpful when farming organically.’

Babich Wines initially planted Albariño because the late Joe Babich wanted to investigate how ‘alternative’ varieties could perform in the vineyard and cellar.

‘The thick-skinned berries and loose bunch structure make it particularly suitable for the more challenging conditions in Auckland,’ says David Babich, current CEO.

‘Marlborough Albariño tends to come through brighter aromatically and on the palate. Ours is fresh and rich in flavour, with citrus and stone fruit.’

Daniel Brennan made his first Albariño for Decibel Wines in 2023, finding it was a hit at consumer tastings.

‘It’s a win for everyone,’ he says. ‘Winemakers love it for the acidity, which we can soften in neutral barrels if we need to. And consumers love it because it’s crisp, bright and has salinity, with the warm hug of apricots and peaches. It’s not too racy like some acid-driven whites.’

NZ Albariño to seek out: Decibel, Neudorf, Nautilus Estate, Villa Maria.

Albariño around the world: the best of the rest

A host of other countries and regions are betting on the future of Albariño, thanks to its climate hardiness and consumer-friendly profile.

Argentina

The relentlessly experimental Zuccardi Valle de Uco planted Albariño in 2015 in its San Pablo vineyard, in one of the coolest pockets of the Uco Valley, with calcareous soils.

Winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi (pictured, above) ages and ferments in concrete to allow the grape’s purest expression to emerge.

‘It shows citrus and yellow fruit, but the fingerprint of the calcareous soils creates a different structure than Albariño from Spain and Portugal,’ he says.

Names to look for: Zuccardi.

Australia

Initially Australian growers mistakenly planted Savagnin as Albariño.

The mix-up has been fixed, but there is still only a tiny amount of Albariño produced, with fewer than 1,000 litres exported to Japan, Hong Kong, the UK and Guam, according to Wine Australia.

Briar Ridge has 1.8ha of Albariño under vine in the Hunter Valley, which winemaker Andrew Duff makes ‘like Hunter Semillon, with at least three months of time spent on lees to aid in mid-palate weight – I aim for freshness and fruit dominance’.

Names to look for: Bassham Wines, Briar Ridge, Mallee Estate.

South Africa

‘Growers in a number of areas are exploring Albariño and plantings, while small, have quadrupled in the past 10 years,’ says Jim Clarke, marketing manager for Wines of South Africa.

‘The variety does very well on granitic soils, which South Africa has plenty of.’

Names to look for: Migliarina, Newton Johnson, Spier, Springfield Estate.

Washington State, USA

With its Idilico label, Pomum Cellars focuses exclusively on Spanish varieties grown in Washington State.

Owner Javier Alfonso believes Albariño is ideal for the region. ‘We assumed it would ripen early because it’s considerably warmer here, but it ripens late in the white grape season,’ he says.

‘Plant vigour is not excessive and the acidity is amazingly high, which is great here, where we struggle to maintain naturally high acid in white wines.’ Washington Albariño offers ripe stone fruits, with a soft, plush mouthfeel.

Names to look for: Grosgrain Vineyards, Idilico.

18 Albariño from around the globe:

Related articles

• Albariño Day: 15 award-winning wines to try
• Catalonian whites: Panel tasting results
• ‘I tasted 700 Languedoc wines over the last year, here are my 10 best under £20’

Bordeaux is famous for its ageworthy reds, but its dry white wines are having a moment.

To crib from a well-known US folk artist, ‘the times they are a changin’ with regards to these typically Sauvignon Blanc– or Semillon-dominant white wines.

Although close to 90% of Bordeaux’s 110,000ha under vine are still made up of red grape varieties, production and demand for the region’s dry whites continues to rise.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 12 scintillating white wines from Bordeaux

A new regional chapter

While the Left Bank is a stronghold for dry white Bordeaux, there is more to the region than just Pessac-Léognan and Graves, with many emerging areas where specific cooler sites – often freshened by the presence of limestone – yield exciting, vibrant wines.

Indeed, a new Médoc Blanc appellation has been approved for wines bottled in 2025 (subject to an objection period). And while in Sauternes and Barsac sweet wines still reign, there’s a growing trend for dry styles there, too.

On the Right Bank, white grapes are grown on diverse plots in St-Emilion and Fronsac, with high-quality wines also found in Blaye, Francs and Côtes de Bourg.

And, with close to 7,000ha under vine (about 1,600ha of white grapes), the Entre-deux-Mers remains a powerhouse for dry whites.

Originally oriented to entry-level wines and higher volumes, a new wave of wines is emerging. These balance keen pricing with a fresh, modern style, often with floral, grassy Sauvignon Blanc characters leading the way.

Left Bank activity

The new 2025 Médoc Blanc appellation shows how things are changing.

Christophe Gouache, owner of early white pioneer Château Loudenne, observes: ‘The Médoc has been home to small quantities of high-quality dry whites since Loudenne was planted with white grapes in 1880.’

In fact, in the past, this area was better known for whites than reds.

Premium wines, including Château Margaux’s Pavillon Blanc (first vintage 1920, although white wine has been produced at the chateau since 1710), Mouton Rothschild’s Aile d’Argent (1991) and Cos d’Estournel Blanc (2005), have led the way, but the opportunities for new and innovative blends (Château d’Issan has begun production of a Rhône-style white blend, Jardin d’Issan), many at easier price-points, will likely shape Bordeaux’s dry whites for years to come.

According to Hélène Larrieu, director of ODG, the Médoc wine producers’ representative organisation, there are some 225ha planted to whites in the Médoc across 90 producers, with about half (120ha) likely to qualify for the new AP.

Larrieu says that ‘the objective is to differentiate the wines of Médoc from others in Bordeaux’, describing Médoc whites as ‘wines characterised by notes of exotic fruit together with salinity from proximity to the Gironde estuary and Atlantic ocean’.

Jacques Lurton (pictured, above), president of the Syndicat Viticole de Pessac-Léognan and president and winemaker of Vignobles Famille André Lurton, which owns five white wine-producing estates across Bordeaux, is enthusiastic about prospects for these dry gems.

He notes: ‘Historically, there were three key areas: Entre-deux-Mers was oriented to entry-level wines often dominated by [zesty, tropical] thiol characters, together with the Graves and Pessac-Léognan.’

Lurton credits the creation of the Pessac-Léognan AP 37 years ago with raising the white wine quality bar ‘as high as possible in Bordeaux – on the quality level of [Burgundy’s] Côte d’Or and [Champagne’s] Côte des Blancs’.

Lurton is also a fan of dry whites from producers in Sauternes and Barsac. ‘They already had a great understanding of their grapes, together with knowledge of barrel fermentation,’ he says.

Semillon is more significant here, resulting in a richer, less aromatic style with great ageing potential.

Changing styles & grapes

Stylistically, there’s a marked move away from oak-influenced wines across the Bordeaux region. Still a key component for top-end wines, oak is less evident, with many cuvées aged in steel or cement tanks, sometimes combined with the use of clay amphorae.

‘The idea is to keep freshness, bring balance and vibrancy,’ says Séverine Bonnie of Château Malartic Lagravière.

The presence of limestone in soils adds freshness, as shown by producers such as the Guinaudeau family of Château Lafleur in Pomerol.

Their Les Champs Libres is a top-end Right Bank white capable of competing with those from Pessac-Léognan, albeit with a markedly different texture.

And recent vintages of the family’s more entry-level Grand Village Blanc (see recommendations, below) show the great strides being made on cooler sites and represent real value.

Bordeaux is also embracing new disease-resistant hybrid ‘Piwi’ varieties such as Floréal and Souvignier Gris.

These can be used as ‘experimental’ varieties up to 5% individually in a blend (no more than 10% in total); and even more in the new Médoc Blanc AP, where Chardonnay and Alvarinho will also be permitted.

Although unlikely to take over from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon any time soon, the development of new varieties such as these shows the scope for even more diversification in years to come.

Five benchmark Bordeaux whites to look out for

Château La Garde Blanc

A fresh, modern Pessac-Léognan white, primarily Sauvignon Blanc on deep limestone with some Semillon, vinified in oak to balance zesty citrus and mineral notes with a chiselled texture.

Château Valandraud Blanc

A rare, opulent St-Emilion white from Jean-Luc Thunevin, blending Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, crafted with barrel and tank fermentation, and new oak-ageing for rich, tropical fruit and soft, rounded flavours.

Le Cygne

An insider’s secret Bordeaux Blanc from Listrac-Médoc’s Château Fonréaud, made from Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, hand-harvested and fermented in barrels (30%- 40% new) with lees aging for a complex, peachy and floral profile.

Le Petit Cheval, Blanc

An extremely limited St-Emilion white, made from 6ha planted 80/20 Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, fermented and aged in oak barrels to produce a refined, mineral-driven wine with citrus and floral complexity.

Les Hauts de Smith Blanc

A vibrant and great-value second wine from Château Smith Haut Lafitte, made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in oak barrels (less new oak than the grand vin) for a crisp, mineral-driven wine with lemon rind, apple and aniseed notes.

Semillon-dominant

The classic Bordeaux blend is a mix of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in barrel and given extended ageing in wood. Muscadelle and/or Sauvignon Gris may also be used in the blend, adding extra floral lift or weightier, exotic notes.

The wines are distinctive, often with a waxy texture adding an extra dimension to the ripe white/yellow peach fruit, with a burst of lemon and lime zest acidity.

Semillon-dominated blends will often have plenty of concentration and ageing potential. Pessac-Léognan leads the way, with many top-quality wines that are a match for the better wines of the Côte d’Or.

Although blends will vary from vintage to vintage, Semillon is usually the dominant variety in Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc – a wine produced in tiny quantities and selling at extremely rarefied prices.

Dry wines from Sauternes and Barsac often have a high proportion of Semillon, with the barrel-fermentation and maturation in wood more restrained than in leading wines from Pessac-Léognan.

Sauvignon Blanc-dominant

Wines in which Sauvignon Blanc dominates often have more forceful, fruit-driven, grassy and floral notes than the creamy-textured character seen with significant additions of Semillon. Lemon, lime and grapefruit characters combine with vibrant acidity to create a palate with freshness and drive.

Grapes grown on cooler, limestone-oriented sites may also display mineral or salty notes on the finish.

Wines produced at entry- to mid-price levels are often vinified in steel, aiming to preserve freshness.

Wood may be used in more premium wines, usually with an emphasis on subtlety so that the texture and flavours imparted don’t diminish Sauvignon Blanc’s natural vitality.

Howard’s pick: A 12-wine tour of Bordeaux’s dry white styles

Related articles

• A new dawn beckons for the Médoc’s white wines
• Bordeaux: Building the future
• My Bordeaux: 10 city hotspots to seek out

Luis Gamiz, Andrew Johnson and Pierre Mansour tasted 174 wines, with 7 Outstanding and 69 Highly recommended

Catalonian whites: Panel tasting scores

174 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 69

Recommended 89

Commended 9

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry white wines from any DO or DOCa in Catalonia. Wines without a Geographical Indication (Vino de España) were considered if produced in Catalonia with grapes grown in Catalonia

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Catalonian whites panel tasting

A walk on the white side

Our ambition for this comprehensive tasting, covering all of Catalonia’s DOs and IGPs, was to highlight a different side to a region better known for its reds.

Alongside DOs where white wines are indeed the specialism and focus (Penedès, Alella, Pla de Bages), there was also a strong showing from counterparts where reds reign (Priorat, Montsant, Terra Alta and the like).

‘The whites from Montsant were a real surprise,’ said Pierre Mansour. ‘As a buyer it made me look at the region differently. It is producing world-class whites that consumers should explore.’

Unsurprisingly, entries were heavy on wines from Penedès, but the top-scoring line-up reflects the diversity and quality found across Catalonia.

For Luis Gámiz, the tasting showed ‘a region where the [white] category is rapidly developing, with producers making interesting “new old styles”’ by exploring local varieties and terroir diversity. ‘The DOs are all levelling up,’ he concluded.

Andrew Johnson agreed: ‘It was nice to see a good spread at the top. It shows that there’s innovation and ambition in smaller DOs, such as Pla de Bages, which people might not expect to see next to Penedès, Montsant or Priorat [at the top of the table].’

Native varieties to the fore

The baseline quality and value were also important takeaways. ‘We would at times have liked to see a bit more character and difference,’ said Johnson. ‘But there’s great consistency. We tasted so many wines that people would buy today, and go back for the following week.’

Mansour stressed the ‘strong individuality of the best wines, particularly those produced with local varieties’. He was particularly taken by the Macabeus, Garnacha Blancas and some of the Xarel·los – ‘Real standouts for me,’ he said.

While these grapes were dominant, Forcada, Malvasia de Sitges, Pansa Blanca, Parellada and Picapoll also featured – an indigenous viticultural wealth being newly appreciated and reinterpreted by producers across Catalonia.

Overall the tasting showed that, as Johnson put it, ‘Catalonian whites are in very good shape’. ‘There’s so much for consumers to discover,’ Gámiz concurred. The outcome of this tasting challenges us all to seek them out.

What to eat with Catalonian whites, by Fiona Beckett

Reading the report of this tasting made me wonder why we don’t drink Catalonian whites more often – they have so much to offer at the table. 

There are variations of course, but in general there’s a weighty character to the wines, especially the Garnacha Blanca, which makes them white wines that can do duty for a red. 

Given we’re in Spain, pork would be an obvious starting point. That said, it’s an area where there’s a lot of seafood, so do think about fish and shellfish, especially wood-roasted or cooked over coals: whole fish such as turbot cooked in a wood-fired oven, big juicy gambas, seared squid and grilled razor clams would all go brilliantly, as would a big hearty seafood stew or mar y montana (‘sea and mountain’) dishes, which combine meat and seafood, such as chicken with langoustines. 

This type of wine is also great with typical Spanish rice dishes: not so much paella – or what passes for paella – but richer dishes such as lobster rice or arroz negro (black rice), again with seafood.

Click here for more Catalonian white wines that have featured in Decanter panel tastings

Catalonian whites panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Luis Gamiz is business and product development manager and Spanish wine buyer at Indigo Wine. He has extensive experience in the wine industry, having previously held positions at Alliance Wine, The Knotted Vine and Vinoteca

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters and also heads his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, having bought the Society’s Spanish wines for nearly 20 years. He is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain

Related articles

• Collector’s Guide: Spain
• Spain & Portugal newsletter: Sign up today
• Vintage English sparkling wine: Panel tasting results

A quick glance at Vincent Dauvissat, and one might be forgiven for suspecting that he is a wizard.

This impression is reinforced by his tall, thin frame, crown of white hair, and twinkling eyes.

But behind this elfin impression is one of the most thoughtful winemakers you may ever meet.

With notes and scores for 12 vintages of Domaine Vincent Dauvissat below

He does, in fact, work magic with his wines, coaxing each year a sublime range from his admirable holdings in Chablis.

His skill is remarkably consistent, through good years and less good, and the wines are at the top of the pyramid in Chablis and among the best white wines made anywhere.

His skill alone would merit admiration, but he is also among the most generous winemakers that I know, often pulling an old bottle from a bin in the corner to illustrate a point in our discussion.

In this way I have been offered over the years precious bottles that date as far back as 1989 that demonstrate the longevity of his lovely wines.

Estate history

The domaine was founded Vincent’s grandfather Robert in the 1920s. Robert was among the first to bottle his Chablis at the domaine in 1931.

His father René (brother-in-law to François Raveneau) began to work at the domaine in 1950, during the difficult years after the war when Chablis was at its nadir.

In the 19th century the greater region around Auxerre was roughly 40,000 hectares, shipping mostly ordinary wine to Paris for daily consumption.

This wide swathe of plantings collapsed after phylloxera, the Great Depression, and two World Wars. By 1955 the entire region was just 500 hectares.

It was a challenging time for Chablis, yet René Dauvissat was successful in building a powerhouse domaine that would endure for future generations.

Sales of Chablis worldwide started to take off after the 1960s, and plantings began to increase.

This was driven in part by more sophisticated frost control, disease prevention through modern pesticides, and fertilizers, which enabled the region to produce at high levels.

But it took a toll on the quality of the wines.

Vincent started to work with his father in 1976 and took over responsibility completely in 1979.

He eschewed the prevailing trends of his generation and has run his domaine using organic and biodynamic principals since 2002.

He is enough of an iconoclast, however, to eschew official certification as well.

He was joined full time in 2013 by his son Ghislain and his daughter Etiennette, although they had worked at the domaine for years already.

Organic instincts

‘Organic is a personal choice,’ he has told me more than once, ‘I don’t do it for anyone else,’ going on to add: ‘The [biodynamic] practices are followed with the utmost care.’

In the vineyard he uses his instincts: ‘The most important thing is not to listen to anyone.’

He sorts meticulously, so that even in a relatively healthy year such as 2023 he reported 15% losses due to mildew and sour rot.

In a seriously difficult year such as 2024, however, yields can be catastrophically small.

Because of his devotion to organic practices, he lost 90% of his production and did not harvest anything in his 1.4 hectares of Les Clos.

He said: ‘The heavier marl and clay soils soaked up the water and the mildew exploded.’

The year was also a complete loss in Petit Chablis and Montée de Tonnerre.

Gut instincts

Once the grapes are in the winery, he continues to take his own counsel.

‘I never look at the level of malic. That’s for oenologues,’ he declares.

Yet the balance of the resulting wines is exquisite.

Like many winemakers in Chablis, he was obliged to chaptalise in 2024.

But, he notes: ‘Once I brought it up 0.5 degrees, and then the balance was just like 2014.’

The grapes are pressed as whole bunches in a pneumatic press and vinified in enameled steel tanks (and a small percentage in new casks) before ageing in casks, both old and new.

No sulfur is added until after malolactic conversion when the wines are racked to tank before bottling.

The lie of the land

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat farms just over 12ha of vines. This includes a hectare of Petit Chablis, located on the Portlandian capstone of the grand cru slope.

There are just over 3ha of village-level Chablis spread across four parcels, including several that face premier cru Forêts facing north-west.

He blends this with a small amount of the premier cru Troëmes (part of the larger Beauroy cru). Both are located on the left bank of the Serein, in the heart of the Chablis appellation.

The most important holding among the premier crus is Forêts, which he spells ‘La Forest’ on the label.

He owns 3.7ha of vines here, spread over seven principal areas. Forêts is part of the larger umbrella appellation of Montmains, but at Dauvissat it is always singled out.

Forêts is a moderately steep part of the hill at its centre. Meanwhile, lieu-dit Montmains itself lies southwest of Forêts at a higher elevation.

It is much larger and is located at the northern edge of the hill as it slopes down toward the Serein and Butteaux (also a subdivision of Montmains).

North of Montmains is Vaillons, closer to the village of Chablis itself. As with the latter, Vaillons is composed of several different lieux-dits, and is the largest of the umbrella appellations on the left bank.

Dauvissat has 1.4ha of vines devoted to his Vaillons bottling, although only 1.1ha are currently in production.

These parcels are located in the lieux-dits of Chatains and Beugnons. The grapes are from 60-year-old vines in deeper marl soils.

Another subdivision of Vaillons is the lieu-dit Sécher, where Dauvissat has another 0.4ha of vines that were planted in 1972 (he spells the name ‘Séchet’).

He explains that the soils are thinner here and give a wine of great finesse and delicacy which is why he bottles these grapes separately.

Across the river

On the other side of the river Serein Dauvissat farms 0.30ha of Montée de Tonnerre in a single parcel planted in 1960 and partly replanted in 1972.

Although the Right Bank of the Serein is thought to produce more powerful, structured wines, Dauvissat explains: ‘We’re in the [lieu-dit] Côte de Brechain and not on the marl soils – we have more limestone pebbles, and a south-west exposition. We are not really in the heart of the appellation.’

The grand cru holdings of the domaine are the pride of the estate. There is a single 0.8ha block of Les Preuses planted in 1970.

It lies up the slope from the holdings of William Fèvre just below La Moutonne and the Vaudésir valley.

It boasts a south-facing exposition and marl soils that have more pebbles and less clay than the slopes of Les Clos.

The result is a wine that is perhaps less powerful but more elegant than Les Clos, and is consistently among my favourites from this domaine.

It is without question, however, Dauvissat’s 1.4ha of Les Clos that produce his most sought-after wine.

Most of the vines are at the top of the slope, interspersed with those owned by William Fèvre, but he also owns a parcel at mid-slope nearer the border with Blanchot.

The blend of these four parcels produces one of the greatest wines of Chablis.

The wines

The Dauvissat style is elegant and discreet. These are wines of great finesse, yet they do not lack in concentration.

The Petit Chablis is a fine introduction to the region, and the village bottling is a delicious representation of the classic racy left bank terroir.

Each of the four premier crus continue this style, but with a distinct expression of place, while the grand crus are the fullest expression of the house style.

The wines a contrast to the powerful wines produced by the other leader of the region, Domaine Raveneau.

The two styles are both delicious and both age well. Both rank at the highest level of white Burgundy.

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, however, will always remain a touchstone for those who appreciate wines of finesse, elegance, and precision.

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat:

Related articles

• Chablis 2023: Vintage Report
• Collector’s Guide: White Burgundy
• Domaine Ravenau: Chablis’ greatest wine

All Bordeaux 2024 coverage:

Full vintage analysis & top-scoring wines | How the weather conditions shaped the vintage | The growing season month by month | Wine styles: what to expect | Market conditions and pricing strategies 

Appellation analysis to come

St-Julien | St-Estèphe | Pauillac | Pessac-Léognan | St-Emilion | Margaux | Cru Bourgeois | Top value | Sauternes & Barsac

Dry white wines 2024: Zesty and fresh acid-driven styles

Average yield Bordeaux blanc: 43.8.2hl/ha

Variance from 2023: -14.21% (50.5.hl/ha)

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top dry white 2024 wines

Vintage overview

Often Bordeaux vintages tend to favour one colour over another, but while I don’t think that is wholly true there’s no doubt the 2024 produced some spectacular dry white wines.

Of course, the growing season remained wet and cool although the earlier-ripening white grapes benefitted from the dry and warm summer conditions and were picked ahead of the September rains.

Nevertheless, there are still variations in style and quality with highs and lows across the board. Some wines are overly flat or dull, lacking in vibrancy and diluted or watery.

However, the best generally have quite low pHs (high acidity) so are focussed on crisp zesty, citrus notes often with some bitter lemon, orange or grapefruit rind accents.

They generally don’t have many tropical or exotic aspects but are razor-sharp, focussed and extremely fresh.

They won’t have the weight or fatness of some warmer vintages – even those with Sémillon which normally offers some thickness and waxy honeyed elements have more of a straight and zingy expression.

Also, those with any Sauvignon Gris or Muscadelle have more pronounced florality than normal.

They are likely to be enjoyable in their youth as well as having the capacity to age. It will be interesting to see how the whites are aged with many favouring more inert vessels such as amphora or wine globes to retain freshness or if wooden barrels will be chosen to add some roundness.

This article focusses only on the ‘Bordeaux Blanc’ and ‘Vin de France’ categories. There are plenty of excellent dry whites from Pessac-Léognan covered here.

Standouts

• Cos d’Estournel
• Valandraud
• Margaux, Pavillon Blanc

Highlights

• Aile d’Argent
• Les Champs Libres
• Suduiraut, Pur Sémillon
• Fleur Cardinale
• Grand Village
• Clos des Lunes, Lune d’Or
• Cantenac Brown, Alto

Value

• Les Pagodes de Cos Blanc
• d’Aiguilhe Blanc
• Fonréaud Le Cygne
• Virginie de Valandraud

See all 33 Bordeaux Blanc 2024 wines

See the top-scoring dry white 2024 wines

Search all 700+ Bordeaux 2024 en primeur ratings

Related articles

• Bordeaux 2024: Weather & growing conditions
• The Bordeaux 2024 growing season: Punch by punch
• All the latest Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur wine releases

Elizabeth Gabay MW, Natasha Hughes MW and Joanna Simon tasted 115 wines, with 12 Outstanding and 44 Highly recommended

Provence whites: Panel tasting scores

115 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly recommended 44

Recommended 36

Commended 23

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release white wines from any part of the Provence region and at any price

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Provence whites panel tasting

Stepping out of Provence’s rose-tinted shadow

Provence white wines aren’t (yet) well known outside the region, notes Natasha Hughes MW, but they’re growing in popularity. This tasting showed enough potential to make it a category of interest.

With the rosés of Provence becoming increasingly pale, white wine could be seen as a natural progression; there was even one blanc de noir in the tasting.

Some producers claim that technological knowledge gained from making rosé (such as temperature control and more reductive winemaking) has improved the region’s white wines. However, it wasn’t evident from the tasting that white wines inspired by rosé were the best way to go.

Joanna Simon felt that producers needed ‘to stand back and look at their white wines in the context of other white wines’, noting that ‘many of them are applying rosé winemaking to the wines as if they’re going to sell them to the same consumers as their rosés’.

A hotbed of cellar experimentation

The best wines in the tasting showed richness, intensity, greater ripeness and ageing potential, while just over half were white versions of their rosé siblings, with young, reductive, crisp, crunchy white fruit.

The least successful provoked comments that they tasted as if picked underripe, resulting in green acidity, and were driven by a yeasty character. Simon felt that in ‘a region of this size, there is room for two styles’.

We would have liked to see more evidence of terroir or regional character in the wines that were based on the Rolle grape (known in Italy as Vermentino).

In terms of regions, Bandol stood out as the most exciting, and by default marked Clairette as an interesting variety. Cassis, the white wine appellation of Provence, was something of a disappointment.

The use of oak, amphorae and cement containers created complexity and texture, noted Hughes, who felt that ‘it was not individual regions or varieties that stood out, but the producers who had enough confidence in their terroir and their winemaking to create wines with a real sense of identity’.

See all recommendations from the Provence whites tasting

What to eat with Provence whites, by Fiona Beckett

Why drink Provence whites when you could drink Provence rosé? Maybe food is the key. Despite being in many instances pale and crisp enough to do duty for a white, rosés don’t have quite the same synergy with seafood.

If you’re cooking a bouillabaisse or a bourride, working your way through a plate of langoustines and mayonnaise, or assembling a grand aioli – especially with salt cod – Provence whites would have the edge.

Thinking of the kind of dishes, too, that would go with Vermentino over the border in Italy, they’d work with pasta dishes such as spaghetti vongole (spaghetti or linguine with clams) or a spring vegetable risotto. And the creaminess and slight almond bitterness of a Provence white is a better match than rosé for pistou, the French version of pesto.

Older vintages and wines that are dominated by Grenache, Roussanne or Marsanne behave more like a Rhône white, so think more in terms of roast or grilled veal, or a whole roast fish, such as a turbot. Both styles would be perfect with the local goat cheeses.

Provence whites panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Elizabeth Gabay MW is a wine writer, educator, speaker and consultant, with a focus on the wines of southern France. Her second book Rosés of Southern France (£22 Amazon, 2022) was co-authored with her son Ben Bernheim

Natasha Hughes MW is a freelance wine consultant, educator, judge and writer, with a focus on wine with food. Her writing has appeared in titles including The Observer, jancisrobinson. com and timatkin.com, and she’s currently working on her first book, about Beaujolais

Joanna Simon is an awarded wine writer, editor, presenter and judge based in London. She spent 22 years as the wine critic for The Sunday Times and has authored several wine books

Related articles

• Provence gains its first cru
• France newsletter: Sign up today
• Vermentino 2023 Tuscany vs Sardinia: Panel tasting results

It’s been said often enough, in recent times, as peace agreements in Ukraine and the Middle East remain elusive: peace is a process, requiring work and commitment – not an event.

The same could be said of revolutions.

Rioja’s ‘white revolution’ is the perfect example of a process unfolding, with a lot of work and commitment from producers – no doubt in response to consumer demand, but also as a product of a re-appreciation of the region’s heritage and pre-phylloxera palette of grapes and styles.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the tasting’s best white wines

Not that long ago, the fact that 152 of the 700+ wines we tasted were white (including at least 10 with enough skin maceration to fall under the ‘orange’ category) would certainly have been unlikely.

White Rioja is evolving, deeply and rapidly, with a new canon emerging alongside its red counterpart.

The selection here reflects the evolution of these classics; some firmly established, others still carving their space, all recognisable in the glass, stylistically assertive and technically pristine (albeit so differently made, which explains the wide array of vintages released in the same 12 months).

Excellence & diversity

The best white wines we tasted are simply world class. Comparisons between white Rioja and white Burgundy have become a cliché – helpful if trying to contextualise quality and commercial potential, but also arguably unfair.

There’s an unmistakable Riojan identity to wines such as Murrieta’s Capellanía, Jesús Acha’s Senda de Haro and Victor Ausejo’s Parcela 333. It’s not just a matter of place and grape variety, but also of structure and texture – a towering assertiveness to the acid backbone; an elegant yet muscular savouriness on the palate.

The stylistic range – from CVNE’s Monopole Clásico GR to Alonso & Pedrajo’s Suañé, via Ostatu’s Lore and Conde Valdemar’s Finca Alto Cantabria

– is wide but delivered with consistency.

Differences in how wood – and as its counterpoint, reduction (a technical winemaking feature induced by fermenting in the absence of oxygen and often described as an aroma of flint, smoke, struck match or even asparagus) – is used, were particularly interesting.

Gone are the days when flagship white Rioja meant nutty depth and oxidative intensity. Here we see top wines of flinty verve and chalky smokiness; wines of chiselled fruit alongside expressions with firm phenolic- laden grip; and wines that remain unapologetically classical, framed by spicy wood.

This makes for a fascinating coexistence of traditional, modern and post-modern Rioja – a theme throughout the report and certainly one of the most exciting processes happening in the region, with this ‘clash’ of perspectives opening new views and possibilities, not least on the white front.

The next challenge

But for a more coherent picture of what white Rioja is – and can be – to become clear, more ambition is needed at the lower end of the price spectrum.

The wines shown here can, for the most part, be described as ‘premium’; humbler whites didn’t show the same character and consistency or indeed the same confidence and energy as the reds at the same price.

If it’s at mid- to premium-level that white Rioja has potential to become truly competitive, a battling entry-point needs to tell the same tale of regional identity and differentiated quality.

However, given how rapidly the category is evolving, we’ll no doubt see exciting developments in our 2026 report!

Rioja Report 2025: The best white wines

Related articles

• Notes on a tasting a century in the making
• Expert’s Choice: Rioja 2021
• The last botero of Rioja

Researchers found that white wine can have a ‘cardioprotective effect’ after studying UK Biobank data for 502,094 people.

They uncovered compelling evidence to suggest that making simple lifestyle changes can protect you from experiencing a sudden cardiac arrest.

The investigators found that higher consumption of white wine and Champagne, eating lots of fruit and maintaining a slim waistline can potentially shield you.

Millions of people around the world die each year after experiencing a sudden cardiac arrest, which causes the heart to stop pumping blood around the body.

The researchers determined that maintaining a positive mood, managing your weight and keeping your blood pressure under control can serve as protective factors.

‘The study found significant associations between various modifiable factors and sudden cardiac arrest, with lifestyle changes being the most impactful in preventing cases,’ said lead investigator Dr Huihuan Luo, from Fudan University in Shanghai, China.

The UK Biobank recruited more than 500,000 middle-aged and elderly Brits. The average age was 56.52, while 54.41% of participants were female and 45.59% were male.

It is the world’s largest biomedical database and research resource. The researchers used the data within the UK Biobank to identify 56 risk factors for sudden cardiac arrest.

They concluded that 40% of cases could be prevented if people eliminated the worst third of those 56 risk factors. That increases to 63% if people cut out the worst two-thirds of the factors.

The study was published in the Canadian Journal of Cardiology. In an accompanying editorial, Nicholas Grubic of the University of Toronto and Dakota Gustafson of Queen’s University in Ontario wrote: ‘One of the study’s most intriguing findings is the cardioprotective effect associated with Champagne and white wine consumption, questioning long-held assumptions about the specificity of red wine’s cardioprotective properties.

‘Research on the underlying mechanisms remains unclear, but these findings reinforce the idea that the benefits of moderate alcohol consumption may be more complex than previously assumed.’

Moderate alcohol consumption came under fresh scrutiny earlier this year after the outgoing US surgeon general called for stronger warning labels on alcoholic drinks.

However, many studies have suggested that moderate drinking is not harmful, and it may even be beneficial. The latest findings from Dr Luo and colleagues bolster that body of evidence.

Other risk factors for sudden cardiac arrest include exposure to air pollution, lack of exercise, smoking and psychological stress.

‘We were surprised by the large proportion of cases that could be prevented by improving unfavourable profiles,’ said co-investigator Renjie Chen of Fudan University.

Related articles

• Drinking wine with meals linked to better health outcomes
• Traces of ‘forever chemical’ TFA found in European wines
• Sommelier rats can smell the difference between Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc

In 2015, top Piedmontese winery Gaja purchased 30ha at 650m in Trezzo Tinella, planting vines and building a new 250,000-bottle winery principally to vinify white grape varieties grown in the new vineyards.

While the new facility is only a 15-minute drive from Gaja’s 19th-century winery in the village of Barbaresco, the vineyards here can be as much as 4°C cooler.

Although the initiative is a response to the warming climate, it also represents a huge investment in the future of Piedmont’s white wines.

Scroll down for David’s pick of Piedmont’s white wines

Located in northwest Italy between the Alps and the Apennines, Piedmont is rightly associated with great red wines.

Ideal conditions for grape-growing are provided by the continental climate, with protection from the worst of the weather by the nearby mountains and a range of hills, mainly of marine origin.

Reds made with Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto are Piedmont’s best-known wines; however, a largely unnoticed feature in recent years is a significant increase in the plantings of white varieties.

The quality of Piedmont’s white wines made with the likes of Cortese, Arneis, Timorasso, Erbaluce and Nascetta is evident in the glass, supported by planting statistics that are the ultimate proof that producers see an important future for white wines in the region.

Sergio Germano, winemaker at Ettore Germano (pictured below), driven by his own interest in white wines, cites the importance of the technology that’s now available for making whites, including temperature control.

He notes that the new focus on white varieties chimes perfectly with the contemporary trend for drinking lighter, more refreshing and lower-alcohol wines.

The big picture

In the period 2008-2024, according to the Anagrafe Agricola del Piemonte regional database, the total vineyard area in Piedmont remained relatively stable at around 44,500ha.

However, the area of red varieties fell by 11%, while that for white varieties rose by a remarkable 25%. As a result, white varieties increased from 31% to 40% of the total. Plantings of Nebbiolo (red) grew significantly, but it is the exception that proves the rule.

In fact, if plantings of Barbera continue to fall, the red variety will soon be overtaken by Moscato Bianco as the most planted variety in the region.

In terms of total hectares planted, Moscato Bianco is the uncontested queen of white varieties. With 10,425ha in 2024, it has more than three and a half times the plantings of the next most planted white variety, Cortese.

Nearly all of the Moscato grapes are used for tank-method sparkling wine – either Asti or Moscato d’Asti – although a handful of producers make dry, still Moscato wines, including newcomer Emanuele Gambino, who ages his in amphora.

Plantings of the variety have increased by 585ha since 2008, yet this only represents 6% growth; outside the top 10 for percentage growth.

Local heroes

Arneis is the biggest winner in terms of growth in planted areas, gaining 675ha since 2008 to 1,452ha. Of this, 920ha produces Roero Arneis DOCG. A short drive from the Langhe, Roero has distinctive sandy soils, perfect for Arneis.

Its popularity was established in the 1990s, when Barolo and Barbaresco producers led by Vietti and Bruno Giacosa adopted Arneis as their local white grape of choice. More than simply an early-drinking thirst quencher, Arneis is capable of extended ageing.

Matteo Correggia produces a Riserva-category Arneis from old vines. Sealed under screwcap for freshness, it is released with six years of bottle age. Similarly, Angelo Negro has a bottling released after seven years called Sette Anni.

Timorasso is the Piemontese grape currently on everyone’s lips. It has seen the second-largest percentage increase in area and is the rising star of Piedmont’s white wine scene. From a base of just 45ha in 2008 (and a meagre 6ha as recently as 2000), it now accounts for 478ha of vineyard.

Of these, about 400ha are in the previously unfashionable Colli Tortonesi, according to the local consorzio, and this has attracted attention from important Barolo and Barbaresco producers in recent years, including Vietti and Oddero.

The latter has invested in 3ha in Monleale, where Walter Massa revived the fortunes of the variety in the late 1980s and 1990s.

Isabella Oddero (pictured below) couldn’t be more effusive: ‘In our personal experience, we can say that the Timorasso grape grown in the Colli Tortonesi area is a great local variety and has huge potential in terms of complexity, bottle ageing, evolution and elegance.’

Fresh and concentrated on release, Timorasso shows its real quality after three to four years in bottle, developing a remarkable array of Riesling-like petrol aromas alongside herbal and dried stone fruit notes.

In the last decade and a half, Cortese has grown by 260ha to 2,776ha, of which 60% is used for Gavi DOCG. The region’s vineyards have grown considerably from an

initial 250ha when it was made a DOC in 1974.

An inexpensive and popular wine in both the on- and off-trades, achieving higher quality requires lower yields and intensive canopy management.

It is only then that wineries can create Gavi with a real sense of place and with the quality to age in the bottle, as with La Mesma’s Etichetta Nera 2014.

International flavour

Among the international varieties, Chardonnay is by far the most significant; its 1,371ha of vineyard represents a 42% increase since 2008. Much of the region’s Chardonnay is bottled as either Langhe Chardonnay or Piemonte DOC, while the remainder is blended into Alta Langa Viognier DOCG, a traditional-method sparkling wine of rapidly growing importance.

Long-term enthusiasts for Chardonnay include Gaja, with its much-admired Gaia & Rey bottling. In Barbaresco, Ca’ del Baio produces three styles: a wine from younger vines, aged only in stainless steel; another from older vines, which goes through malolactic fermentation and is aged in oak; and a new wine fermented and aged in oak.

In 1996, Matteo Correggia planted Sauvignon Blanc in Roero because he loved the variety. Since 2008, plantings across Piedmont have more than doubled to 260ha.

Furthermore, among other international varieties, Viognier and Riesling have increased from just 0.6ha and 18ha respectively in 2008 to 151ha and 78ha in 2024. Viognier is increasingly being seen as a good match for Piedmont’s warm growing season.

Examples to try include Marziano Abbona’s version from Dogliani.

New names to intrigue

Erbaluce, planted around Caluso, three-quarters of an hour northeast of Turin, has grown by 65% to 373ha in the last decade and a half.

Historically, this great variety was used mostly for making sweet passito style or late-harvest wines, but today, most Erbaluce wines are dry, with some traditional-method sparkling wine also being made.

Erbaluce’s restrained but subtle aromatics – crisp green apple, lemon and florals – combined with its high acidity make the grape suitable for all three styles, as demonstrated by Cieck’s wines.

While Nascetta has attracted a great deal of attention in recent years, it hasn’t seen the same level of increased plantings as some of the other white varieties. From a tiny base of just 7ha, it now stands at 68ha.

One reason for its relatively slow growth is that it is strongly associated with the Barolo region, in which it competes directly for vineyard space with the much-in-demand Nebbiolo.

Valter Fissore of Nascetta-pioneer Elvio Cogno explains its appeal: ‘Even if it is a niche wine, more and more wine professionals and wine lovers are discovering and becoming more passionate about Nascetta.

‘Every day, we receive positive feedback and compliments for the high quality of this white wine, which is recognised as one of the great white wines of the Langhe.’

There are several other, even rarer white varieties, such as Baratuciat and Rossese Bianco, that may begin to gain traction in Piedmont in the future.

One thing is clear: while drinkers will undoubtedly continue to treasure the region’s great red wines, there are more and more reasons to reach for the highly characterful, distinctive white wines of Piedmont.

And the real focus of interest should be the indigenous varieties, especially Timorasso, Nascetta and Erbaluce.

They may be new names to learn and new wines to seek out, but they will certainly reward the adventurous drinker.

Piedmont’s white wines

Related articles

• Tuscany’s top tier: New vintage releases
• Barolo 2021: Top value picks
• Barbaresco 2022 vintage: The hot vintage paradox & pick of the 2020 Riservas

Assyrtiko is in crisis. The popularity of this diamond-pure Greek white grape from the burnished pumice of Santorini, has risen as fast and bright as a meteorite in reverse.

But the disastrously meagre 2024 harvest described by Stellios Boutaris of Sigalas as barely ‘two buckets of grapes’, presents a shortage to burgeoning fans of this cheerleading local variety.

Thanks to above average temperatures and a lack of the night-time dew compounded by a third consecutive year of lower-than-average rainfall on Santorini, the dip in production is biting.

Scroll down for Olly’s pick of Greek white wines that aren’t Assyrtiko

Looking beyond the obvious

At this year’s Oenorama wine fair in Athens almost every winemaker spoke with enthusiasm for their passion for grapes beyond Assyrtiko.

For too long, they say, we’ve all been beguiled by the beauty of Assyrtiko and with hardly any stock around, even regular buyers of this star from Santorini are facing waiting lists and allocations.

Back from the brink

The first grape on everyone’s lips for something with widespread appeal is Malagousia.

Saved from extinction just a few short decades ago by Evangelos Gerovassiliou, Malagousia is a white grape that’s far more than just a scented crowd-pleaser.

Those new to wine loves its bright fruity appeal, Greece’s answer to Albariño, you might say.

While devoted connoisseurs, are gripped by its ability to thrill with the precision of a minerally matrix.

In its more serious iterations, I think of it as a steel nectarine glowing beneath a halo of frozen jasmine, such as the wine of Maria Dimitriadis who grows very fine Malagousia on the slopes of Mount Olympus under her Navitas label.

Attic contender

For volume to fill the gap left by Assyrtiko, the former workhorse grape behind retsina – Savatiano – has serious potential.

Rather like Chenin Blanc it’s capable of youthful vim as well as extended ageing and with lots of old vine heritage, quality across Attica in particular is abundant.

With producers like Papagiannakos producing beautiful single vineyard examples such as the Vientzi from vines more than 60 years old in limestone soil, this grape shows encouraging potential to produce wines of fruity delight balanced with textural richness.

An island duo

For blade-fresh wines with similar mineral-pure saltiness to Assyrtiko from Santorini, Thrapsathiri from Crete or Xynisteri from Cyprus are both interesting contenders.

Thrapsathiri has a subtle tropical edge with fresh herby spice to it.

Meanwhile, Xynisteri from Cyprus can deliver compelling citrus tension especially from the high-altitude vineyards of Cyprus such as Kyperounda, (some of which reach 1,400 metres, among the highest in Europe).

Sites such as these combined with the drought resistance and naturally fresh acidity of so many Greek white grape varieties offer great hope in the face of the climate emergency.

Heady charms

For white wines with bold character with scented freshness, the fragrant headiness of Moschofilero is already a hit on the UK high street in stores such as Marks & Spencer where their Found bottling is blended with lemony Roditis.

With rose petal and heady lemon blossom among its captivating aromatic charms, Moschofilero is about as enticing as summer white wines can get.

Yet in the hands of specialists Troupis in their ‘TOMH’ Mantinia 2023 (12.5%)’ it’s focused into a wine of etched definition with lime-scented stone fruit and irresistibly crisp élan.

Its near-relative Mavrofilero has even more citrus verve which is doubtless capable of luring fans of top-quality Sauvignon Blanc towards local Greek grapes.

Quincy allure

But in my view, the rarer Kydonitsa grape (meaning ‘little quince’) is a variety which manages to balance seriousness with delightfully discreet aromatic allure.

Kydonitsa has a sense of liveliness (as the name suggests, there is a certain similarity to quince), with a charming textural crunch and a restrained aromatic profile somewhere between chamomile and pear.

Another emerging star in the firmament of Greek white wine beyond Assyrtiko is Vidiano.

Vidiano is a grape that comes from Crete, thought to originate from the prefecture of Rethymno and tends towards peachiness lifted with herby freshness.

While it’s never the zippiest of all Greek grape varieties, I’ve yet to taste a soft example and from cooler vineyards the wines balance nicely between widespread appeal and mesmeric finesse.

Paired with fish, shellfish and light summer salads, it’s absolutely splendid.

Rare jewels

However, for the captivating pristine power of volcanic Assyrtiko, the answer lies in some of the seriously rare varieties that are tucked away on other sun-drenched islands.

The highly rare grape of Makripodia from Zakynthos is one to watch with a saline streak to appeal to Assyrtiko fans or the red grape Romeiko planted across Crete which produces moreish white wines with dynamic umami and sea-spray that are wonderful matched with mezze.

But the real hope for similar calibre to Assyrtiko is Potamisi.

Found in the Cyclades, the best examples have a similar mineral power to Assyrtiko with the tension and invigoration of grand cru Chablis.

For a white wine of impressive concentration that can be equally at home with a Greek salad, shellfish, sushi or a lemon roast chicken, Potamisi has the power to take the world by storm.

Delicious Greek white wines that aren’t Assyrtiko:

Related articles

• Oeno P: Paris Sigalas pushes Assyrtiko to greater heights
• Discover Greece’s flagship grapes
• Greek wine styles to know and wines to try

In Decanter magazine’s April 2025 issue, David Way writes about ‘Piedmont’s shifting focus’, which delves into the increase in plantings of white grape varieties in the Italian region and the reasons behind this change.

He notes: ‘The quality of Piedmont’s white wines made with the likes of Cortese, Arneis, Timorasso, Erbaluce and Nascetta is evident in the glass, supported by planting statistics that are the ultimate proof that producers see an important future for white wines in the region.’

The big picture

‘In the period 2008-2024, according to the Anagrafe Agricola del Piemonte regional database, the total vineyard area in Piedmont remained relatively stable at around 44,500 hectares (ha),’ writes Way in the article.

‘However, the area of red varieties fell by 11%, while that for white varieties rose by a remarkable 25%. As a result, white varieties increased from 31% to 40% of the total.’

Way identifies Arneis as the variety making the biggest gains: ‘Arneis is the biggest winner in terms of growth in planted areas, gaining 675ha since 2008 to 1,452ha.’ But the big picture is more than just this one variety.

Read the full article in April issue of Decanter, out on Wednesday 2 April.

Masterclass at Vinitaly

Separately, Way said that he will also be personally discussing the topic next week in a masterclass during the Vinitaly 2025 expo in Verona.

Anyone planning to attend Vinitaly (6-9 April 2025) can sign up for the masterclass by following the link below. All attendees will receive a complimentary copy of Decanter‘s April 2025 issue.

Masterclass details: Tuesday, 8 April 2025, from 13:30 to 14:30 (CEST).

Discover more and register to attend

About David Way

David is author of The Wines of Piemonte (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2023) and senior researcher for WSET Level 4 Diploma textbooks, as well as a contributor for Decanter. He also runs his own website, winefriend.org.

Related articles

• Where to eat and drink in Barolo
• Collector’s Guide: Piedmont
• Barolo 2021: Top value picks

As we walked through the winery at Château de Beaucastel, I asked César Perrin if he minded if I took some photos. ‘Sure,’ he said, ‘but we’re not allowed to take any of the actors.’

Between two sorting tables laden with purple grapes were lighting rigs and a camera crew all focusing on two glamorous individuals staring into each other’s eyes. They were filming the latest episode of the TV series Drops of God.

You never quite know what to expect at Beaucastel.

The Perrin family has always done things differently. Working organically as early as 1950 and farming biodynamically since 1974, the family was one of the first in the region to champion Mourvèdre; now, they’re backing Counoise.

But arguably their most radical move to date was to create their top white cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes in 1986, a wine that marries richness and vigour like few others.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 19 vintages of Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes

A break from tradition

Today, most of the neighbouring estates bottle a range of different Châteauneufs. But in the mid-1980s that wasn’t the case; local estates produced just one red wine (and perhaps one white).

There were only a couple of estates making a Cuvée Spéciale at that time, and making a white one was unheard of.

Given this appellation’s longstanding dedication to blending, producing a white Cuvée Spéciale just from Roussanne – a single grape variety – was even more broad-minded.

I visited César and his father François Perrin a few weeks ago to taste 19 vintages of this pioneering white, from 2023 back to 1986 – one of the most comprehensive verticals they’ve ever done.

Four decades of winemaking

François was just 24 years old when he joined the family estate in 1978. ‘I didn’t understand anything to begin with,’ he says, but there was a particular plot of Roussanne that caught his eye that was planted in 1919 by his grandfather Pierre.

François first vinified this Roussanne separately in 1986, and, happy with the results, he continued to do so. ‘I had no idea they would live this long,’ he says.

Having both François and César present at the tasting was particularly instructive. François could tell me about the older vintages that he made, and César filled in the details on the more recent vintages; the 2012 vintage marks the transition from father to son.

From time to time, François teases César when we taste the older wines: ‘You see,’ he says to César, ‘we made good wines back then!’ But you can tell they get on well.

Picking by eye

The source of the fruit has always remained the same: a 4ha plot from the Beaucastel estate on the northeastern edge of the appellation. Yields are naturally low – around 15hl/ha – and around 6,000 bottles are released per year.

The key to the style is ripeness. ‘We don’t look to keep acidity,’ says François, ‘we pick it ripe, and when it turns roux,’ referring to the freckled, russet colour that Roussanne develops late in the season.

This always takes place between 15 September and 5 October, and they haven’t noticed much change with the picking dates.

‘The grapes almost start to deteriorate,’ adds César, ‘it can be a bit scary – but that’s the secret to Roussanne Vieilles Vignes.’

Stylistic evolution

In the 1980s, François says that the winemaking was ‘more empirical’. Today, they have more precision when it comes to temperature control and protecting the wine from oxygen.

They use more demi-muids than barriques now to age the wines, and they use either new or one-year-old oak.

With the help of a guide called a merrandier, someone specialised in splitting wood and making wooden staves, César buys entire oak trees from private forests, some aged up to 250 years old. These are then dried for three years before being fashioned into barrels.

The essence of Roussanne Vieilles Vignes

Roussanne is an unusually adaptable grape. It can make wines of lightness and purity in the cool, mountainous region of Savoie; it can make middle-weight St-Josephs in the northern Rhône.

And in Châteauneuf it makes wines of deep opulence – and none more so than Beaucastel’s Roussanne Vieilles Vignes.

When young, it typically has flavours of pear and apricot, leaning towards peach or even mango in warmer years. Notes of honey and spice build over time. The acidity is only ever mild, but saline touches on the palate and noble bitter notes help to bring structure.

Be aware that it usually goes through ‘a period of oxidation, a certain flatness around 10 years on average,’ according to François. ‘Then it becomes young again,’ he says, ‘but more angular and tense, less supple.’

This was borne out by the tasting; the 2016, though clearly an excellent wine, will disappoint if you open it now – it’s currently in this oxidative phase. The 2014 however is much more expressive and youthful.

What amazed me was how fresh and vibrant the oldest wines were – both the 1988 and the 1986 were still wonderful, with an extraordinary clarity and salinity.

It goes against the prevailing belief that full-bodied, low acid wines can’t age. Radical styles can behave unexpectedly.

What’s next for Beaucastel? Its most uncompromising project to date – a revolutionary new winery – has nearly come to fruition. More on that later.

But I can confirm it’s a fitting home to a wine such as this – one of France’s greatest Mediterranean whites.

19 vintages of a white masterpiece

Related articles

• White Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 20 of the best
• Walls: Domaine de la Mordorée’s La Plume du Peintre; then and now
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Revisiting 2020 in bottle

We’ve chosen the wines below based on value and quality and while many may be familiar names, we’ve also thrown in a few more unusual options to explore, all tasted and rated by the Decanter team. Our selection of great-value white wine showcases 20 refreshing pours all priced at under £20.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 20 great-value white wines

Burgundy may not be a region you’d necessarily associate with value, but Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Vielles Vignes 2022 and Cave de Lugny Les Charmes 2023 are both welcome exceptions. Another Chardonnay – this time from Kent producer Balfour – also made the cut. It’s unoaked and a great option if you’re looking for something bursting with crisp acidity.

Sauvignon Blanc fans would do well with The Horologist 2023 – a classic Marlborough choice offering gooseberry and green citrus notes. The variety also shows well in Domaine Roblin’s Sancerre Les Côtes 2023.

Those in search of classic Italian options are also well-catered for with Pieropan The Society’s Exhibition Soave 2023 and Castellore Specially Selected Gavi 2023. For something a little different, the Don Vincenzo Eghemon Passimiento 2023 is bursting with ripe peach, melon and mango teamed with a fresh dose of acidity.

We’ve also listed a couple of Albariños ideal for quaffing – the Morrisons 2023 vintage from Spain’s Rías Baixas balances salinity with peachy weight while Left Field’s 2023 offering from New Zealand is bold with a buttery character.

If you’re looking to impress without spending a small fortune, try the La Baume Blanc 2022 – an elegant Grenache Blanc-based blend which comes in an eye-catching bottle you won’t want to hide away.

It may still be traditional ‘red wine season’ in the UK – let’s face it, the weather has had many of us tempted by a comforting glass of Malbec by the fireside – but let’s encourage an early spring with some invigorating white wines.

Great-value white wine: 20 to try

Related articles

• Great-value sparkling wine: 18 bottles to try
• Best value Burgundy and Bordeaux: 14 wines to try
• Should you put wine in the freezer? – Ask Decanter

That Susana Balbo has been a pioneering force in Argentine (and South American) wine goes without saying.

Her talent as a winemaker, entrepreneurial spirit, resilience in the face of many challenges and the way in which she has reframed the possibilities for women in the wine industry make her one of the sector’s most respected names.

Which explains her worthy inclusion in Decanter’s Hall of Fame in 2024.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Susana Balbo’s eight vintages of Signature White Blend

Landmark year

Serendipitously – and rather symbolically – the bestowment of Decanter’s lifetime achievement award coincided with the 25th anniversary of Balbo’s eponymous project, founded in 1999 as Dominio del Plata. Her winery and range now bear her name – appropriately, for hers are wines with a very personal imprint.

Beyond the Hall of Fame recognition, the quarter-century anniversary was marked by the release of a special library edition of Cabernet Sauvignon from the flagship Nosotros range.

However, rather than merely celebrating her achievements, Balbo used the landmark year to consider the evolution of one of her now best-known – and itself pioneering – wines, the Signature White Blend.

A vertical tasting of all vintages since the inaugural 2016 provided an opportunity to consider the wine’s evolution and potential, as well as its meaning for South American wine more broadly.

Indeed, if South America has now firmly established itself as a safe source of fine red wine – of consistent quality, expressiveness and collectability – the full potential for premium whites is yet to be fully unleashed. But a revolution is afoot, with Balbo’s Signature White Blend a strong step forward – for the path it has opened and questions it has raised.

Balbo herself recognises that the Signature White Blend is a work in progress; a journey of learning – as ever – and discovery that shows a humble recognition of work yet to be done.

Embracing the challenge

The genesis of a Bordeaux-inspired white blend was a visit by Tim Atkin MW to Balbo’s winery in Mendoza.

‘Chatting to Susana Balbo one day, I bemoaned the relative shortage of good white blends in Argentina,’ explains Atkin.

Wouldn’t there be potential to produce an age-worthy wine, Argentine in its essence, to rival the world’s best whites and match the country’s great reds? ‘So a week later, we sat down with a Sémillon from Mendel, a Sauvignon Blanc from Giuseppe Franceschini and her own Torrontés and played with some components for fun.’

Not one to shy away from a good challenge and always driven by great curiosity (creative as well as technical) Balbo set out to add the experiment to her aptly-named Signature range.

‘Little did I imagine that she would go ahead and make a wine based on our cuvée. Not only that, she improved on it,’ Atkin continues.

Queen of Torrontés – and much more

Having started her career in the cradle of Torrontés Riojano, in Cafayate (Salta), and often referred to as the ‘Queen’ of Argentina’s flagship white variety (see latest releases of her Signature Barrel Fermented and Late Harvest iterations for proof), Balbo was well placed to make the best of the variety’s aromatic and textural potential, alongside classical French counterparts.

Balbo says that blending is the winemaker’s greatest skill; the ability to produce something that is more than the sum of its parts. The signature White Blend indeed shows how Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon can work to each other’s benefit: the florality of Torrontés outlined by Sauvignon’s herbaceousness; the woolly weight of Sémillon (especially with some years in bottle) lifted by the aromatic vividness of its counterparts; the zesty scalpel of Sauvignon softened by the barrel-aged Torrontés and unctuous Sémillon.

‘Textural’ is a word often used to describe this wine. Texture is indeed central to the identity of the wine, a product of multiple, complementary factors. The Sémillon and Sauvignon grapes undergo pre-fermentative maceration; Sauvignon and Torrontés are fermented in oak, where they are kept on the lees for two months; the final blend ages for up to six months in barrel (60% of which new).

The subtle phenolic grip at the core of this wine is key to its medium-term development, showing particularly well in vintages 2018 to 2020.

Vintages 2016 and 2017, with the weighty, nutty depth of Sémillon emerging more vividly, suggest there’s great potential for this to become a wine designed to be drunk with even more time in bottle.

Leveraging further potential

Which left me wondering whether Balbo is treading too carefully. Could Torrontés be brought to the forefront, especially in vintages where Sauvigon Blanc tends to dominate the aromatic palette and the wine therefore seems a bit more removed from its place? Is there perhaps potential for more ageing in barrel?

Some vintages seem to suggest that the marrying of the blend and the textural potential would benefit from a bit more wood. And moving the dial into slightly more oxidative territory might add an interesting depth of field. If so, more extended macerations might add complexity without loss of elegance.

Such questions would not be asked, however, if the wine did not show, already, the character, poise and evolution potential of a great white. Atkin says that since its first vintage, the Signature White Blend ‘has gone on to become one of South America’s finest and most distinctive whites’.

‘The first one was good, of course, but since then she’s refined the blend and improved the quality. I’m proud to have inspired her to make something so good.’

Curiosity and anticipation is how we’ll wait to see how Balbo takes it further.

Susana Balbo Signature White Blend – all released vintages scored and tasted:

Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. 

Related articles

• South American whites: a new era
• Susana Balbo: Decanter Hall of Fame 2024
• Susana Balbo Torrontés: Taking Argentina to new heights

The decision was finalised during the Collio consortium’s latest assembly, held in December just before the holiday season.

While this is not the first instance of such a move – Spain’s Terra Alta DO in Catalunya, for example, adopted a similar resolution three years ago – Collio’s decision arguably holds far greater global significance. Collio is widely recognised as the birthplace of the modern orange wine revolution thanks to pioneering producers like Gravner and Radikon.

According to the consortium’s director, Lavinia Zamaro, discussions about integrating wines made from white grapes whose juice is fermented in contact with the skins into Collio’s disciplinare had already been taking place within the council over several terms. However, it had not been possible to fully develop the project due to other priorities.

‘The definitive push came in 2022,’ she explained. ‘First, thanks to the newly elected board of directors, which made it a cornerstone of its programme to resolve this issue and reach a conclusion. Second, because of pressures from our certification body, Valoritalia, which had been urging us to provide clearer definitions for our macerated wines to facilitate their official inclusion in our production guidelines.’

Upon its appointment, the current board of directors prompted the creation of a technical committee, comprising both member and non-member companies of the consortium involved in the production of skin-contact wines, to collect contributions, feedback and insights into the practice. After two years of work, the committee’s efforts culminated in the final vote last December, which resulted in the approval of the category’s integration into the production specifications.

The technical details of the new category are still being finalised, yet some key aspects have already been agreed upon. The maximum level of volatile acidity, for instance, will be the same as for red wines, set at 20 milliequivalents per litre. Meanwhile, the minimum maceration time of Collio’s orange wines will be seven days.

One of the most innovative aspects of the denomination’s new category is the introduction of a precise codification of the wines by colour using the Pantone scale. This approach will enable Valoritalia, the body responsible for certifying the wines, to evaluate them in a transparent, non-interpretative manner.

‘This is a completely new wine category, not only for Collio, but for most denominations too. The use of the Pantone scale will allow for a completely impartial evaluation of the wines,’ Zamaro explained.

Crucially for enthusiasts, the exact Pantone tonality of a wine will also be indicated on its label – similar to how the level of sweetness is currently displayed on wines from Alsace. This will help drinkers understand what to expect from a bottle they are unfamiliar with, enabling them to make more informed choices when selecting a wine.

As for the exact wording on the label, this will likely be Vino da Uve Macerate, meaning ‘wine from macerated grapes’, or alternatively Vino Ottenuto con Macerazione, meaning ‘wine obtained by maceration’, while there are no plans to adopt the more internationally recognised term, ‘orange’.

The motion was approved with a firm majority of 72%, yet it did face some objections. ‘The main concern we encountered is that, in recent decades, Collio has focused on a very “pure” style of white winemaking – if you’ll allow the term – characterised by fresh wines with good salinity,’ said Zamaro.

‘For some producers, there is concern that introducing such a markedly different wine category could create confusion among drinkers.’

Despite the criticism, the majority ultimately supported the motion due to the central role Collio has played in the modern rediscovery of skin-contact wines and in their growing popularity worldwide.

‘Since these wines are not yet included in our guidelines, we actually have no production or sales data, but their appeal is undeniably high: there is significant international interest for our macerated wines and for orange wines in general,’ Zamaro said.

‘We know that Collio is the [modern] birthplace of the skin-contact practice, and when visitors come here, they often ask about it. For this reason, it seemed appropriate to give due recognition to something that is such an integral part of our region’s history.’

With the motion approved by the consortium, it now must undergo further bureaucratic steps before it is officially implemented, including approval by the Italian Ministry and the European Commission. The consortium expects this process to take about a year, meaning that the Collio’s first Vini da Uve Macerate could be available to wine enthusiasts as early as from the next vintage.

Related articles

• Friuli’s skin-contact whites plus six top bottles to seek out
• The rise of English and Welsh orange wine
• Great orange wines for autumn: 12 to try

As recently as five years ago it would have been hard to consistently find white Riojas on wine shelves. For many UK consumers, ‘white Rioja’ might in fact have sounded like an oxymoron, the region’s name being associated with the red iterations that have become pantry staples.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 best-value white Rioja wines to try

However, in the third decade of the 21st century, white wines from Spain’s most famous wine region have emerged as one of the most exciting, fast-evolving categories not only of Spanish but of European wine at large. Today, most retailers list one white Rioja, if not more, and many – as is the case in this selection for The Wine Society, Tesco and Marks & Spencer – as part of their own ranges.

A fortunate combination of factors has allowed the style to increase its visibility and popularity. Greater demand for white wines, along with mounting prices from classic regions – not least Burgundy – happened just as Riojan producers rediscovered the region’s potential beyond reds, thus expanding their portfolios to reach a wider audience. For consumers, this means that a category that previously was mostly the domain of connoisseurs and collectors has now broadened its availability and its appeal – stylistically as well as price-wise.

Styles to explore

Most white Riojas are either single-variety or blends based on Viura. The generous-yielding, unfussy variety – elsewhere known as Macabeo/Macabeu – accounts for 68% of the area planted to white grapes in Rioja (and 6.1% of total vineyard area, according to DOCa Rioja data) and this dominance is reflected in the wines’ makeup. Winemakers explore Viura’s aromatic and textural potential differently, though, with some examples relying more on the exuberant orchard fruit and creamy citrus while others remain more restrained. Restraint leaves space for nuance, though, allowing herbal and vegetal subtleties to come to the forefront. Viura also has a Chardonnay-like affinity with wood, and well-judged oak adds a welcome nuttiness and smokiness for truly food-friendly – in many cases ageworthy – wines.

But winemakers are also taking advantage of the wider palette of varieties at their disposal. Of the other eight white grapes allowed by the DOCa, three stand out for their character and potential: Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Malvasía. Adding a splash of the latter to Viura is very common, lifting the fruit core with subtle floral notes. But I find that Tempranillo Blanco – a light-skinned natural mutation of the red of the same name that was discovered in 1988 in a vineyard southeast of Logroño – is yielding some of the region’s most interesting wines, both blended and on its own. With high acid and a poised structure, it holds fruit with ease while conveying a real sense of place.

Cellaring options

The selection of 18 wines that follows offers a great opportunity to begin an upwards journey; a first step in the discovery of wines that, at the higher end of the price spectrum, have begun to take up cellar space previously occupied by white Burgundy. From the lower shelf to the highest, there’s quality and value to be found. Many of the suggestions here have ‘bigger siblings’ – such as Sierra de Toloño’s Nahikun (2023, £27-£30 Lea & Sandeman, Ultracomida), López de Haro’s Classica Gran Reserva (2013, £42.95-£46.50 NY Wines, The Good Spirits Co), or Muga’s Flor de Muga (2021, £36 Laithwaites) – which you might want to discover if you’ve enjoyed their more affordable counterparts.

Best-value white Rioja: 18 top buys

Related articles

• Rioja: Beyond the classics
• Rioja vintage spotlight: 2014 and 2004
• Exploring Rioja Alavesa

The warm, dry winter preceding the 2023 in Chablis heightened fears of frost damage among growers, but outside some minor episodes of frost on 28 March and 4 April, the spring passed without incident.

Flowering in early June occurred under ideal conditions, and a very large crop was set on the vines. June through August saw scattered rain and cooler temperature, but ripening accelerated with a September heatwave that caused alcohol to jump and acidity to drop.

The 2023 Chablis report devotes in-depth coverage to everything from Petit Chablis to village-level premier cru and grand cru Chablis wines. For the first time we also include coverage of the very best from the larger region of the Grand Auxerrois, including the crus of Irancy (for Pinot Noir), Saint-Bris (for Sauvignon Blanc), and Vézélay (for Chardonnay) as well as some outliers from the Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre appellation, northern reaches of Burgundy that can be particularly successful in recent warmer vintages.

Curtis tasted over 400 of the region’s top wines, from superstar growers such as Raveneau and Dauvissat to emerging stars such as Pattes Loup and Guillaume Michaut at Domaine 47°N 3°E. He presents his top 100 wines across the myriad styles of Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois, with an emphasis on the very best in quality and value.

The full report illuminates the ready-to-drink charm of the Petit Chablis and village Chablis appellations, where yield was generous and prices may remain moderate. Curtis also makes a deep dive into the differences between the premier crus on the Left Bank of the Serein and those on the Right, and looks in depth at the very top wines of the grand cru slope and its seven terroirs.

The year was not without pitfalls – producers who did not control yield risked dilution, and those who did not judge the harvest date well sometimes produced wines high in alcohol and low in acidity, faults this report will help the reader avoid. However, the top growers produced intense, ageworthy wines well worth purchasing en primeur to ensure supply.

The coverage on Decanter Premium is a detailed expansion of the report that appears in the magazine’s December 2024 issue.

Related articles

• Rhône 2023 en primeur: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines
• Loire Valley 2023 vintage report: White wines and the best new releases
• Chablis wineries see ‘crazy’ climate and small 2024 harvest

Elizabeth Gabay MW, Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler and Justin Howard-Sneyd MW tasted 158 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 30 Highly Recommended.

Languedoc whites: Panel tasting scores

158 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 30

Recommended 114

Commended 12

Fair 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release, still white wines from any of the AOPs within the Languedoc (with the exception of AOP Picpoul de Pinet), as well as from any of the IGP and Vin de France, but not including single-varietal Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.

The wine-growing region of Languedoc is 200km in length, arcing round the southwestern edge of France’s Mediterranean coastline. Diverse terroirs with schist, limestone, clay and sand can be found along the coastal plains and the southern foothills of the Massif Central.

There is an Atlantic influence in the northwestern vineyards, higher altitude coolness in the foothills of the Pyrenees in the south, and cool air sweeping down the Rhône Valley in the east. The resulting diversity can make it almost impossible to define a ‘Languedoc style’.

Languedoc white wines rated 90+ listed below

A riot of varieties

A long history of producing large volumes of cheap and cheerful wines has fixed the image of the region for many consumers, but affordable land and free-minded attitudes have meant that the region has, for a number of decades, also produced some stellar wines.

Judge Justin Howard-Sneyd MW said: ‘It was great to see the wines aspiring to price levels certainly not achieved 20 years ago, meaning the best wines are excellent value compared to wines of similar quality from the Rhône, Burgundy or California.’

A distinctive feature of the tasting was the rich assortment of local white grape varieties. These include Clairette, Piquepoul, Terret Blanc and Gris, Carignan Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Riveirenc Blanc and Gris; some saved from obscurity or even extinction.

Rhône varieties such as Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Araignan (also called Picardan) and Viognier, as well as Rolle (Italy’s Vermentino) and Macabeu (Viura in Spain), are also increasingly widespread. For Howard-Sneyd, ‘the most successful wines were Mediterranean blends’.

Since the 1980s, international varieties have been increasingly planted in Languedoc. Chenin Blanc was an early introduction in the area around Montpellier, appreciated for its acidity, and can now be considered a local grape. It is used extensively in Limoux and in the area of Terrasses du Larzac, where it is hoped it will soon be included in the list of permitted varieties.

Wines made from 100% Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc were excluded from the tasting. Newer international varieties such as Riesling, Petite Arvine, Colombard, Petit Manseng and Alvarinho do crop up, and can contribute freshness and acidity.

Single-varietal Viognier performed well, but blends including a small percentage of it did not.

Oak, concrete and freshness

Not every Languedoc appellation includes white wines, and those that do often produce just a small amount. This makes it more difficult to establish regional styles and Howard-Sneyd notes that whites under the large Languedoc AP ‘struggle for identity, and this risks being a dumping ground for anything that doesn’t have a more specific AP.’

Great freshness was found in maritime La Clape and the higher altitude and limestone soils of Terrasses de Larzac, but we were disappointed not to have found greater freshness in the wines from Limoux.

The best wines all had extended ageing in wood, concrete or tank, with great balance of freshness and richness, complexity and power. Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler felt that the use of oak did not always justify higher prices.

The lowest-scoring wines were often marked down due to flabbiness and a lack of freshness or, conversely, by hard, unripe greenness and more clumsy use of oak.

While there may not yet be clear regional Languedoc white styles, the range is still impressive: from rich, complex, oaked wines to lighter, fruity wines with prices from below £10 to over £50. Clearly this is a region with opportunities for exciting discoveries.

Languedoc whites panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Elizabeth Gabay MW is a wine writer, educator, speaker and consultant, with a focus on rosé and the wines of southern France, where she has lived since 2002. Her second book Rosés of Southern France (£22 Amazon, 2022) was co-authored with her son Ben Bernheim

Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler is a wine buyer for Waitrose, focusing on rosé, Burgundy and regional France, having previously worked for more than five years in roles including wine buying and head of trade sales at importer Charles Taylor Wines

Justin Howard-Sneyd MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Languedoc-Roussillon. A former wine buyer in UK multiple retail, he is a wine trade consultant via his company The Hive Wine Consulting, a trustee of the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation, and produces wines at Domaine of the Bee in Roussillon

Related articles

• Aragón reds: Panel tasting results
• Amarone: Panel tasting results
• German whites beyond Riesling: Panel tasting results

Miserable weather during the growing season means that many Chablis winemakers saw a relatively small 2024 harvest.

Figures were still being finalised, but the overall Chablis 2024 harvest was likely to be less than half of the level seen in 2023, said Paul Espitalié, president of the Chablis Commission, which is part of the regional Bourgogne Wine Bureau (BIVB). 

Frost, hail, mildew and above-average rainfall in spring and early summer all presented challenges for growers, said Espitalié, although he said producers were happy with the quality of grapes that survived the climate’s onslaught. 

‘The wine is tasting good today with a lot of fruit. Of course, it’s more grapefruit and lemon flavours than ripe fruit. [It’s a] very fresh, clean style of Chablis wines.’

A BIVB report on the Chablis 2024 harvest said that yields varied considerably, sometimes within a single village.

While some growers harvested below 10 hectolitres per hectare, a few managed to pick a full crop and the region’s south-east was seemingly spared, it said.

Reserve stocks built up in the 2022 and 2023 vintages should help to cover shortfalls from the smaller 2024 crop, maintaining supplies of Chablis for consumers, according to Espitalié.

Climate change in Chablis

Yet, he said conditions in 2024 add to a sense of climate change throwing up more unpredictable weather patterns in Chablis.

‘It’s not only global warming; we are talking about [the] climate being crazy,’ he said.

‘Some years we will have drought and heatwaves, and the following year we will have two or three times more water.’

Chablis winemakers contended with drought in 2023. In the 2024 growing season, producers saw 50% more rainfall than normal up to the end of August. 

‘This year, Chablis town was flooded twice. We had an amount of rain which was quite incredible,’ said Espitalié. He added that hailstorms hit the region’s vineyards in May, earlier in the year than the usual high-risk period.

Meanwhile, warmer weather in February and March can leave more young vine buds exposed to frost if temperatures plunge in April. 

‘We need to find solutions’

Growers are trying to find solutions, especially to frost, said Espitalié. ‘If you visit Chablis today, you will see a real evolution.

‘You will find a lot of big propellers with heating systems to heat the air a little bit. You will find more and more vines equipped with heating wires to prevent the frost around the buds.’ Pruning vines later in the season can help to delay bud-burst in the following growth cycle, too. 

There is work to explore rootstocks within the Chardonnay grape variety.

Earlier-ripening variants have historically been highly prized, ‘because we were very far north, and the challenge was to have enough sugar and ripe grapes’,’ said Espitalié. ‘Now, we are thinking differently.’

Earlier picking can also help to preserve freshness and acidity in the grapes, he said, quipping that winemakers have stopped taking holidays at the end of August. 

Chablis is also helped by its terroir, however, he added. ‘We really have a specific terroir that gives minerality and saltiness to our wine.

‘Even in quite ripe years in the past, even if at the beginning we had very ripe wines…with a few years of ageing you will find this freshness and minerality.’

Espitalié said that Chablis winemakers were considering asking France’s appellation authority, INAO, for greater leeway in terms of how much wine can be set aside in producers’ reserves in larger vintages.

Some wineries had to throw away good stock from the 2023 harvest, he said. An ability to hold bigger reserves could help winemakers to manage stocks, and also help to maintain more stable pricing in export markets.

Broadening Chablis wines’ appeal in UK

Regarding consumer demand for Chablis, Espitalié said sales were showing a good dynamic globally, but he pointed to several years of declining export volumes to the UK. 

While the UK remains a major destination for the region’s wines, exports fell 4.7% in the first seven months of 2024, versus the same period of 2023, to 1.67m bottles. By value, exports dropped 7.8% to €17.5m.

Economic factors are considered partly responsible for this, but a new marketing campaign set to launch next year will seek to broaden Chablis wines’ appeal by presenting them as wines for every occasion – a move that it’s hoped could also attract a younger generation of drinkers.

‘I think a big challenge for us is to try to do more communication for younger people,’ said Espitalié.

Rise in organics and tourism

In Chablis itself, research in 2022 found that almost quarter of estate managers and co-managers in Chablis were under the age of 40.

This has been linked to various innovations, including a rise in vineyards converting to organic in recent years, according to the BIVB.

More producers have also switched on to tourism opportunities, according to Espitalié, such as by opening shops in Chablis village. This has been accompanied by a growing restaurant scene, and Espitalié said tourist numbers were rising 20% year-on-year. 

In 2023, 500,000 tourists visited Chablis and its surrounding villages, led by visitors from the Netherlands and the UK.

Related articles

• France slashes wine production estimate following poor weather
• Domaine François Raveneau: Taking the pulse of Chablis’ greatest wine
• Trump victory puts wine tariffs back in spotlight

Fantastic Chardonnay can be found worldwide, but Burgundy remains the benchmark and a must-have for any serious white wine collector.

Some of the world’s greatest white wines are forged in the Côte d’Or, while the splendour of Chablis and rise of the Mâconnais attest to Burgundy’s rich variety of terroir-driven producers.

As with red Burgundy, a global clamour for small quantities of wines from the best vineyards and producers often translates to tight allocations.

Prices on the secondary market remain at historically high levels, although a recent fine-wine market downturn may present collectors with opportunities.

This guide focuses mainly on the white wines of the Côte d’Or, drawing on new expert commentary and exclusive reporting for Decanter Premium subscribers to highlight recent developments, ways to approach the region and its momentum on the fine wine market.

A downloadable PDF version of the White Burgundy Collector’s Guide is available here

White Burgundy in the Côte d’Or landscape

Burgundy’s patchwork quilt of vineyard ‘climats’ is a treasure trove for collectors, reflecting geological diversity and centuries of viticultural refinement.

Many prized white wines are made in the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of the famous Côte d’Or, around the villages (communes) of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet.

Others hail from the Corton hill, just north of Beaune itself, while some white wines are also produced in the Côte de Nuits, such as Domaine Comte George de Vogüé’s Musigny Blanc.

Producers typically make a variety of wines in a vineyard-based classification system led by grand cru sites, followed by a premier cru tier, village-denominated bottlings and regional ‘Bourgogne’ wines.

A Bourgogne Côte d’Or category was created in 2017, sitting above the general regional Bourgogne level.

Montrachet and family

Montrachet is a hallowed site for white wine, once tended by Cistercian monks and today spanning eight hectares shared between Puligny and Chassagne (where it’s known as ‘Le Montrachet’). Prices can range from several hundred to several thousand per bottle – of any currency of your choice.

The neighbouring grands crus using the Montrachet name are also highly regarded.

Charles Curtis MW, Decanter’s Burgundy correspondent, said of Domaine Leflaive’s Bâtard-Montrachet 2019: ‘Balance is always the hallmark of the Bâtard from Leflaive as the fresh minerality of the Puligny side plays against the luxurious ripe, almost tropical notes of the south-facing Chassagne side of the vineyard.’

Meursault magic

Meursault has no grand cru, but its premier cru Perrières is often considered at this level.

Curtis recently tasted Domaine Roulot’s 2022-vintage Perrières (96 points) for Decanter Premium: ‘This is a breathtaking, complex wine, showing notes of lime peel to coconut water, passionfruit and mint, with a savoury, almost gamey undercurrent and a pronounced saline minerality,’ he said, adding that savvy collectors will wait at least a decade to uncork it.

Prominent white Burgundy producers

Domaine Coche-Dury is a leading name, and its village-level Meursault was the most searched-for white Burgundy on Wine-Searcher.com in September 2024.

Domaine Leflaive has five spots in the top 10. It is a revered name and pioneer of biodynamic farming – spearheaded by the late Anne-Claude Leflaive.

Her nephew, Brice de la Morandière, has continued her legacy.

Such lists can only ever scratch the surface of what Burgundy offers, but other key producers not highlighted in the ranking above include:

• Domaine d’Auvenay – part of the Leroy stable
• Domaine des Comtes Lafon
• Ramonet
• Roulot
• Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
• Henri Boillot
• William Fèvre (now in the DBR Lafite portfolio)
• Billaud-Simon

More names to know

Curtis highlighted several more producers for collectors to consider, in addition to the well-known names cited above.

‘I think all [these producers] can be trusted throughout their range, if the exalted realms of grand cru and Meursault Perrières are out of reach.’

The ranges of négociant-producer houses are also worth exploring, such as Puligny-based Olivier Leflaive, plus also Louis Latour, Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, Bouchard Père & Fils and Faiveley.

Three developments to watch

Bouchard Père & Fils: New owner Artémis Domaines, the fine-wine group controlled by French billionaire François Pinault, plans to put more focus on prestigious wines, Artémis’ MD recently told La Revue du Vin de France.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) in Corton-Charlemagne: This vaunted producer released its third vintage (2021) of Corton-Charlemagne grand cru earlier in 2024, having leased 2.9ha from Bonneau du Martray – split between the En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne climats.

Domaine Pierre Vincent: Domaine Leflaive general manager Pierre Vincent is to leave at the end of 2024 to focus on his namesake winery, after acquiring Domaine des Terres de Velle with two friends. ‘A recent tasting of the inaugural vintages raised hopes of an exciting new domaine to follow,’ Curtis wrote for Decanter.

DRC Montrachet Grand Cru production

A snapshot of yields in the three most recently released vintages of DRC, Montrachet, sourced from the offer brochures of Corney & Barrow, exclusive UK agent for DRC.

2021 (released in 2024): 13.5 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha) | 102 cases (12x75cl)

2020: 40.8hl/ha | 295 cases

2019: 24hl/ha | 184 cases

Further back, severe frost in 2016 led to seven producers, including Leflaive and DRC, pooling grapes to make two barrels of Montrachet grand cru, named L’Exceptionnelle Vendanges des Sept Domaines.

Top white Burgundy vintages

Great winemakers can deliver sumptuous wines irrespective of vintage conditions, and Burgundy’s sheer size further impedes generalisation.

‘In Chablis, you’re closer to Troyes in Champagne than you are to Dijon, let alone Beaune, Chalon or Mâcon,’ wrote Decanter contributing editor Andrew Jefford in 2018.

Caveats aside, recent vintages represent a good run of form for quality. Decanter ratings show four stars (out of five) for white Burgundy in 2022, 2021, 2019 and 2018, rising to 4.5 stars in 2020.

Vineyard positioning can aid winemaking skill. In praising Bruno Colin’s Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Chaumées 2020 (93pts), Curtis noted the site’s east-facing aspect at the top of the slope, with thin, stony soils over limestone.

‘This is a great terroir for a hot year such as 2020,’ he wrote.

Five Decanter five-star vintages: 2014, 2002, 1995, 1989 and 1969.

Rollercoaster yields

Yields can vary significantly between vintages in Burgundy. ‘These sudden variations seem to have become more pronounced in recent years,’ said the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) earlier in 2024.

Hail, frost and mildew pose particular hazards. Climate change research has found extreme weather is becoming more common globally, while a France-based study suggested warmer winters can mean earlier growing seasons – potentially leaving more vine buds exposed to spring frost.

Buying the wines

Larger crops may improve collectors’ chances of securing certain wines, yet the most sought-after bottlings are often tightly allocated.

‘Sourcing top white Burgundy can be a challenge due to the quantities produced,’ said Curtis. ‘If you see something attractive, it’s important to jump in and commit.’

Will Hargrove, head of fine wine at UK merchant Corney & Barrow, the UK agent for Domaine Leflaive and DRC, said the merchant tries to walk a fine line: ‘It’s this age-old balance between supporting people who have supported us, and also embracing new customers.

‘We do tend to try and use the bigger vintages to welcome new people in. That’s something we want to do.’

He said Corney & Barrow planned to offer Domaine Leflaive 2023 wines en primeur from early December 2024.

Key dates

November: The annual Hospices de Beaune auction is a major event in the calendar.

January: The traditional en primeur (futures) release period for many Burgundy wines. The relatively large 2023 vintage is next up. Timings vary, though, and some wines are released later.

Decanter’s Chablis 2023 Report: Published in December 2024

Decanter’s Burgundy 2023 Report: Published in January 2025

Debate over release prices

Rising release prices in recent years partly reflect higher costs for wineries, but have also caused debate, as noted by Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, in its Burgundy 2022 en primeur report earlier in 2024.

It said consumers still pounced on the highly regarded 2022-vintage wines, and most producers kept price rises to a minimum, but it also warned that challenging market conditions mean ‘the gap is widening between [producers’] release prices and what buyers are willing to pay’.

Hunting for value

Value is relative, of course. Liv-ex’s Burgundy 2022 report said Chablis has the lowest average prices in the grand cru tier.

More generally, strategies range from shopping further down a well-regarded producer’s range, looking to less- prominent areas – where some top producers also operate – and unearthing under-the-radar winemaking talent.

Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise or the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune / Nuits are geographic areas to consider. Corney & Barrow’s Hargrove cited single-vineyard wines from the Mâconnais to the south.

‘Those are certainly things I would push people towards,’ he advised.

In 2020, 22 ‘climats’ in the Mâconnais’ appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé gained premier cru status.

Buying wines on the secondary market

Good purchasing methods include merchants’ broking services, as well as digital trading platforms, such as Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade or Berry Bros & Rudd BBC, and major auction houses, including Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Bonhams, Zachys or iDealwine.

‘When buying wine on the secondary market, it is best to ask for photographs to check the colour (which should be commensurate with age),’ said Curtis, who is also founder of consultancy group WineAlpha and former head of wine for Christie’s in the Americas and Asia.

‘I avoid anything with signs of seepage, and whenever possible I purchase full cases in their original packaging (carton or wooden case).’

It’s important to check a wine’s ownership history, provenance and condition as much as possible before purchase. This can affect a wine’s cellaring potential or future value.

Reputable merchants and auction houses authenticate wines, but collectors should also be watchful for counterfeits. If the price looks too good to be true, then it probably is.

The premox issue

White Burgundy wines have had widely publicised challenges with premature oxidation (premox). This appeared particularly prevalent between 1995 and 2005, as Curtis wrote in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue.

‘Whites from Burgundy darkened and traded their fruit for caramel aromas far too early,’ he wrote. ‘From the mid-1990s, the scourge was frequent, if sporadic.’

The extent and causes of the issue have been much debated, but incidences of premox have since been greatly reduced, according to Curtis and several merchants.

‘Most of the top estates and the conscientious producers have reduced or eliminated this issue through a variety of methods, and in general I am much more sanguine about this now than I was 10 or even five years ago,’ Curtis said via email.

Still, it is something for collectors to be aware of, especially if looking to buy wines from those affected older vintages.

Trading focused on blue-chip producers

Expanding global demand for finite supplies of top Burgundy wines has been a key fine wine market narrative in the early 21st century.

Opinions differ on the size of the secondary market. Matthew O’Connell, CEO of the LiveTrade online trading platform at international merchant Bordeaux Index said a relatively small group of blue-chip Burgundy producers have a global following, but that liquidity falls away below this level.

He said there were some 10 white Burgundy producers in this top-tier category, compared to about 20 for red Burgundy.

White Burgundy’s secondary market performance

Several data sources suggest prices on some of the most prominent white Burgundy wines are significantly higher than five years ago.

The table below shows examples based on Wine-Searcher worldwide average retail prices, ex-tax.

Fine wine market hits choppy waters

Despite a wider rising trend, the average prices of Coche-Dury, DRC and Raveneau have dipped on Wine- Searcher versus October 2022.

There have been reports of subdued fine wine trading in general, with buyers appearing more cautious in a climate of higher interest rates and challenging macroeconomic conditions.

While the secondary market has a track record of long-term growth, prices have recently fallen back following a period of strong gains on some wines – especially on blue-chip Burgundy and Champagne.

Liv-ex’s Burgundy 150 index fell more steeply than its parent index, the Liv-ex 1000, over the two years to 30 September.

It has still risen further on a five-year basis, though.

White Burgundy outperforming red

White wines in the Burgundy 150 index have outperformed reds since the start of 2022, according to Liv-ex.

After gains for both, from October 2022 to 31 August 2024, the Burgundy 150’s white index dropped around 13%, while reds dropped nearly 30%.

Online auction house iDealwine remarked on a similar trend. It said: ‘For over a decade now, scarcity and strong demand has protected fine Burgundy from market fluctuations.

‘In the post-Covid price softening that we have witnessed at auction, we can see that this time, white Burgundy has been largely immune where red has not (prices fell 35% last year for red, 15% for white).’

O’Connell added: ‘When the Burgundy market went up in 2018 and 2019, white Burgundy didn’t follow so much.

‘In the 2021 and 2022 market increase, some white Burgundy names massively outperformed everything.’

Auction demand for white Burgundy

Charles Antin, global head of wine auctions at Zachys, said there is strong buyer demand for older vintages in the right circumstances.

‘I think while people shy away from some vintages of white Burgundy due to the infamous premox, these are still considered the greatest white wines in the world and, if there is confidence from the buying base about the condition of what is in the bottle, the bidding will be aggressive.’

Domaine d’Auvernay leads the way

‘[Domaine] d’Auvenay is still far and away the most expensive white Burgundy we sell,’ said Antin. ‘Of the top 10 white Burgundy lots sold in 2024 [so far], eight are d’Auvenay.’

iDealwine said d’Auvenay constituted its top three white Burgundy lots of 2024 so far, based on hammer selling price:

• Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2005 (1x75cl) | €16,902

• Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 (1x75cl) | €10,266

• Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 (1x75cl) | €10,141

It was a similar story at Sotheby’s’ ‘Live in the Vines’ auction in Beaune in July 2024, featuring wines from collector Pierre Chen. Highlights included:

• Six bottles of d’Auvenay, Chevalier- Montrachet Grand Cru 2009 | sold for €106,250, including buyer’s premium |

(estimate: €85,000 – €130,000)

• Three bottles of d’Auvenay, Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru 2014 | sold for €50,000 (e: €40,000 – €60,000)

• Three bottles of DRC, Montrachet Grand Cru 2007 | sold for €47,500 (e: €19,000 – €24,000)

George Lacey, head of wine for Sotheby’s Asia, told Decanter shortly after the sale: ‘When you offer older vintages, in good condition, with exceptional provenance which are rare and not so frequently seen in the market, there’s clearly still great demand. That was really encouraging for us to see.’

Investment: Weigh up the costs

Professional storage with temperature and humidity control can affect a wine’s future value or cellaring potential. There may also be fees associated with selling wines.

Check up-to-date prices, provenance and condition carefully and, if you’re interested in the investment side, seek professional advice.

Ups and downs

Changes to Liv-ex Market Price on white wines in the Burgundy 150 index. Two-year data is updated weekly and runs to 04/10/2024, but five-year data is updated monthly and runs to 30/09/24.

Wine investment: Six things to consider

1. Some of the most prominent fine wines on the secondary market have a track record of increasing in value over time, particularly as available supplies diminish, but nothing is guaranteed. The pool of investment-grade wines is also relatively small.

2. Professional storage in bond is considered important. A wine’s condition and provenance can affect value.

3. Wine investment is unregulated. Only buy wine from reputable sources, and check provenance and condition as carefully as possible before buying.

4. Factor in costs, such as for storage, and possible selling fees. Storage is often charged at a fixed annual rate.

5. Some auction houses have previously told Decanter that full cases tend to be more in-demand, although limited-production wines may be released or allocated in smaller quantities – such as three-bottle cases.

6. If unsure, always seek professional advice.

Report by Chris Mercer for Decanter Premium. A freelance journalist and former editor of Decanter.com, Chris has written about the global fine wine market for more than a decade

Click here to join Decanter Premium now and enjoy instant access to the latest Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur Collector’s guide, as well as past Collector’s Guide’s including, Left Bank Bordeaux, Napa and Piedmont and Rhône.

Disclaimer

Please note that this report has been published purely for informational purposes and does not constitute financial or investment advice. The report includes Wine-Searcher monthly global average retail prices in US$ to provide a consistent point of comparison, as well as data and opinion from other trade sources. All of this information is subject to change, and the prices and availability of wines cited will vary between countries, currencies and retailers. Decanter and the editorial team behind this report do not accept liability for the ongoing accuracy of its contents. Seek independent and professional advice where necessary and be aware that wine investment is unregulated in several markets. Please be aware that prices can go down as well as up.

A downloadable PDF version of the White Burgundy Collector’s Guide is available here

Related articles

• Collector’s guide: Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur
• Collector’s Guide: Right Bank Bordeaux
• Collector’s Guide: Left Bank Bordeaux
• Collector’s guide: The rise of Piedmont
• Collector’s guide: Napa Valley wine

Michaela Morris is one of the first certified Italian Wine Experts through Vinitaly International Academy in 2015, who co-created the curriculum for VIA’s Italian Wine Maestro course. She holds the WSET Diploma and is the new Regional Chair for Piedmont at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

As such, Morris was perfectly positioned, along the shore of Lake Michigan, to share an impressive collection of Italy’s white wines at the first edition of Vinitaly USA.

The 2024 competition, which took place in May, featured more than 18,00 wines from 57 countries judged by leading international experts.

Morris explained the rigorous judging process to attendees before diving into the wines. The DWWA prides itself on using independent judgement, by a collection of tasters who taste flights of wines blind and then discuss the results.

Wines awarded Gold medals (95-96 points) are grouped by category and re-tasted blind in a second round of judging. The best are elevated to Platinum (97-100 points) which are re-tasted again by the Co-Chairs, who finally pick out the Best in Show wines. Just 50 wines were designated Best in Show out of the more than 18,000 judged.

As usual, it was a strong year for Italian wines in 2024. Italy finished with six Best in Show wines, coming fourth behind France, Australia and Spain. However, it was the wines of Italy that took home more Platinum medals than any other country. Italy led the way with 18 medals, followed closely by Spain with 17 and Australia with 10.

While Italy’s grand reputation is built on the red wines of Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto, Morris sought to highlight the country’s diversity in terms of region and variety.

For the masterclass, Morris selected six white wines, all of them Platinum and, in one case, a Best in Show, a Bellone, from Lazio’s Casale De Giglio. A wine that surprised the judges at this year’s DWWA.

‘None of us saw this wine coming,’ said the judges. ‘A total surprise from the indigenous Bellone grape grown in Lazio in Central Italy, just to the southwest of Rome itself. The grape has often been made in a slightly sweeter style in the past, but this example is full and firm, lightly oaked, and made in a food-friendly, dry style. Suppose you have a soft spot for the Central Italian whites of Frascati, Castelli Romani, Marino and the Colli Albani. In that case, you might recognise its limpid, faithfully grapy aromas and soft honeysuckle charm,’ they said.

‘That alone wouldn’t be enough to propel the wine to a Platinum medal and a Best in Show appearance,’ the judging team added.

‘What makes the difference here is the substance, concentration and drive of this wine, together with the haunting subtlety of its aromatic profile. It’s absolutely (we felt) a wine for fine dining and the table, and the soundness and innate generosity of its flavours combined with the fact that it is not disconcerting or confronting in any way gives it a strikingly wide range of gastronomic applications. It deserves a wider audience.’

The six masterclass wines

The six wines in the masterclass were personally picked out by Morris, representing a variety of regions and styles.

Monte Rossa, Cabochon Brut, Franciacorta, Lombardy 2016

Platinum, 97 points

70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Nero

Bewitching layers of melon, apple and lemon cradled in a creamy, buttery richness. Supple and stylish with a fine drive of acidity and ravishing mousse to delight and inspire. There is a little salty lift on the long finish. Alc 12.5%

Muzic, Valeris Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2022

Platinum, 97 points

100% Tocai Friulano

Magnificent layers of smoky-toned golden fruit and delicate floral hints swirl and disperse over the creamy, juicy texture and voluptuous structure. Oozing freshness and zest with a salty mineral element which steers towards the finish line. Alc 13.5%

Gini Sandro E Claudio, La Froscà, Soave Classico, Veneto 2021

Platinum, 97 points

100% Garganega

Gorgeous swathes of succulent melon, pineapple and pear overlay a chorus of burgeoning smoky minerals. Ample and sapid with a delightful purity of fruit, a rippling freshness and a breath-taking floral character on the finish. Outstanding! Alc 12.5%

Casale Del Giglio, Anthium Bellone, Lazio 2023

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Bellone

Alc 14%

Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Primo Grande Cuvée, Alto Adige Terlano, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 2021

Platinum, 97 points

65% Pinot Blanc, 33% Chardonnay, 2% Sauvignon Blanc

Mesmerising tropical mango, pineapple and melon cascade over the delicious grassy, floral undertones. Glistening with poise and elegance with a stunning mineral structure and citrus acidity, it is simultaneously rich and incredibly refreshing with an astonishing length. True perfection. Alc 14%

Florio, Vergine Riserva VR1898, Marsala, Sicily 1998

Platinum, 97 points

100% Grillo

A delectable toasted almond and walnut husk intensity overlaps myriad dates, dried figs, and prunes. It is well built and momentous with tangy citrus acidity, which surges through the succulent texture and weaves towards the long finish. Alc 19%

Attendees at the packed event were stunned at the calibre of the wines, as Morris’ selections challenged conventional thinking about what Italy is doing best.

The white wines are exemplary, each showing greatness for varieties and regions that far too often take a back seat to the more trusted red wine classics.

Related articles

DWWA 2025 entries are open: Where excellence meets opportunity

Meet the judges: Q&A with Michaela Morris

DWWA winners impress at Decanter’s inaugural Fine Wine Encounter in Singapore

Venice and the Veneto have been part of my life since childhood. I was 11 the first time I visited Venice. I know the province of Verona well – it’s where the radicchio my father exported was grown. Food connected me to the Veneto as a child, and it still does now, as I teach at a cookery school in the Dolomite foothills of Treviso three times a year. To be able to visit so often, and to cook with the region’s magical ingredients, is a privilege and pleasure. The cooking of the seven provinces of Veneto is as diverse as the landscapes of the region – from the snowy peaks of the Pre-Alps to the coastal marshes and lagoons. The recipes and essays in my book offer a glimpse of this captivating region.

Pumpkin & walnut gnocchi

I first encountered this splendid dish in the cooler months of October and November in the Veneto. It truly celebrates the beautiful pumpkins and squash that are proudly displayed in Venice’s Rialto market. Be sure to cut the pumpkin with a very sharp knife.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 2kg pumpkin or squash (make sure it’s firm)
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 100g walnuts, plus extra to garnish if preferred
• 2 large eggs
• 1⁄2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
• 50g Italian ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting
• 50g potato flour
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 100g unsalted butter
• 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced
• generous handful of fresh sage leaves
• 200g Pecorino cheese, finely grated
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.

2. Cut the pumpkin or squash in half horizontally and remove the seeds. Place each half on a baking sheet, then drizzle with oil and salt. Bake in the preheated oven for about 1 hour until tender, depending on size. Set aside to cool.

3. Meanwhile, roast the walnuts for 10 minutes on a baking sheet in the oven, then finely chop.

4. Scoop the flesh from the pumpkin into bowl. Squeeze the flesh through a clean tea towel to remove any excess liquid. This ensures that the pumpkin has a strong, more intense flavour.

5. Place the squeezed pumpkin flesh on a clean work surface and mix in the walnuts, eggs, nutmeg, both of the flours and baking powder, and some salt and pepper. Mix well until fully combined. Divide the dough into walnut-sized portions and roll into 5cm-long pieces. Place them on a floured tray.

6. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil then drop in about 20 gnocchi. Lower the heat and cook gently for about 2-3 minutes, allowing the gnocchi to bob to the surface of the water and then counting for 30 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Repeat the process with the remaining gnocchi.

7. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan. Add the garlic and cook gently until starting to soften. Add the sage leaves and cook until lightly golden, then remove the pan from the heat.

8. When all of the gnocchi are cooked, spoon the butter and sage over them. Serve the gnocchi sprinkled with Pecorino cheese and a few more walnuts.

Ursula Ferrigno is an acclaimed food writer and chef. She trained at the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts and has taught at leading cookery schools in both the UK and Italy, including Leiths School of Food and Wine. She is consultant chef to Caffè Nero, has made many appearances on BBC TV and has written more than 25 cookery books.

Cucina del Veneto: Delicious recipes from Venice & Northeast Italy by Ursula Ferrigno was published by Rylands Peters & Small in July 2024 (£22)

The wines to drink with pumpkin & walnut gnocchi

By Fiona Beckett

If you were going to devise a dish specifically to go with orange wine, this would be it. Pumpkins and walnuts are natural bedfellows for orange wines – from a perspective of colour as well as taste. The combination would really evoke autumn. However, given that the dish is inspired by a visit to the Rialto market in Venice, you might want to opt for an Italian white – I’d go for a Soave with a bit of bottle age, myself. Given the lavish quantities of butter and cheese, you could also try a rich Chardonnay or a white Côtes du Rhône or Languedoc white. Red wine would be perfectly fine, too, though for me a Valpolicella may be too light, or, in the case of the ripasso style, too sweet. A Lagrein or Teroldego from northeast Italy would be more interesting, or even a Chianti – always a good pairing for cheese. Or a typical Grenache Syrah-Mourvèdre blend from the southern Rhône, though a medium-bodied rather than an overly alcoholic one, given that this could be a starter.

Wines selected by our Decanter experts

Related articles

• Perfect Pairing: Kekada Masala (Masala crab)
• Perfect Pairing: Spiced lamb shoulder with couscous
• Perfect Pairing: Sea bream crudo

In the Loire Valley, the emerging consensus is that there is no pattern to the weather, prompting Muscadet’s Famille Lieubeau to wonder if there is such a thing as ‘normal’ anymore.

Its conclusion? ‘From a climate point of view, no two years are the same’.

Scroll down to see Beverley Blanning MW’s selection of the best new releases of white Loire wines

Risk of rot

This sentiment is by no means unique to the western Loire in 2023; the vintage presented a range of problems for white-wine makers across the region. By the time harvest arrived, growers had a bumper crop of healthy grapes on their hands – but most had endured plenty of drama along the way.

The early season started well, with no significant frost. After successful flowering and fruit set, the vines were laden with fruit. Everyone had their fingers crossed for a good-sized, healthy crop.

But in June, humidity set in, causing widespread mildew pressure that persisted throughout the season.

Growers had to be vigilant to protect their grapes. Temperatures fluctuated wildly, from excessively cool to near-tropical, with the ever-present threat of rot.

Growers in Vouvray had an additional challenge – acid rot. Julien Pinon, of François et Julien Pinon, says, ‘grey rot is a fungus, but acid rot is caused by a bacteria that turns wine into vinegar. It’s very rare – the last time this happened was in 2014’.

Because the rot originates inside the berries, it can be hard to spot, but Pinon says, ‘In some parcels, you didn’t need to see it – you could smell it.’

He says that fruit selection in the vineyard was the key to making good wine. ‘We discarded 20% of the grapes; some colleagues threw away as much as 40%,’ he says. The 2023 vintage will favour the minority who harvest by hand in Vouvray.

Across the Loire

Chenin Blanc also suffered in other appellations, especially Anjou, where the cool, humid weather persisted throughout August, followed by heavy rain in September.

Domaine Belargus declares that 2023 was the rainiest harvest in the area for 10 years. Again, sorting was key to quality. Harvest at Belargus took two months.

Sarah Hwang, of Domaine Huet in Vouvray, reports a similarly long and complicated harvest, with 2023 taking twice as long as 2022.

Elsewhere, and for other varieties, harvest conditions were rather easier. In Muscadet, the early ripening Melon de Bourgogne escaped the rain and benefited from a late summer heatwave that concentrated both sugar and, unusually, acidity. There are some excellent wines to be found here.

In the vineyards around Sancerre and further south, growers enjoyed a very healthy and high-volume vintage.

See all of Beverley Blanning MW’s top Loire latest releases here

What to expect

Despite the problems of the growing season, the high and early crop load has translated to very high yields across the Loire this year. Volumes are up more than 20% on the 2022 vintage and at the highest recorded levels of the last five years.

Many appellations yielded the maximum permitted levels. Higher yields are harder to ripen successfully – dilution has been a noticeable issue in some of the earlier released 2023 Sauvignons.

The white wines are in the more classical Loire style, with cooler, restrained flavours, moderate alcohols and refreshing acidity. These will be shorter-term wines than those of 2022, which was a vintage of exuberant fruit and good concentration.

Loire white wines: Know your vintages

2019: Following severe frosts, vines produced a low crop of very good quality grapes. The wines show freshness, concentration and balance, and will age well. 5/5

2020: A warm vintage of good quality and ripeness, but with a tendency for higher alcohols, as sugars rose rapidly late in the season. 4/5

2021: A year of devastating frosts all over France that severely affected the Loire. Frosts were followed by a cool growing season that favoured white production. A small volume of delicate, high-quality wine was made. There are some delicious, understated, crisp whites from this vintage. For the few growers who held out for botrytis, some outstanding sweet wines were made, too. 4/5

2022: This year was marked by drought, with heat so severe the vines closed down in summer. Nevertheless, it has produced excellent white wines with beautiful aromas and balanced acidities. There are many hugely appealing wines here. 4/5

2023: One of the most complicated vintages in recent memory, testing the abilities and resilience of vignerons throughout the Loire. Of recent releases, the Muscadets appear to be very successful, the Sauvignons of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé less so. A vintage in which the skill of the grower was paramount. 3/5

Beverley Blanning MW’s book, The Wines of the Loire Valley, was published in October 2024 and is available to buy for £35

Decanter has partnered with Académie du Vin Library to offer Premium subscribers access to an exclusive discount for the book: use code DECLOIRE5 when purchasing the book here.

Beverley Blanning MW’s top Loire white latest releases:

Related articles

• Domaine Belargus: Les Treilles, exceptional single-vineyard Chenin
• Anjou Chenin Blanc: A long-awaited renaissance and 20 wines rated
• Loire whites 2022 plus top new releases

The analogy isn’t exact (they rarely are), but Tuscany’s offer, too, was once… well, more monotonous than monolithic. I remember the straw-bottomed fiaschi (flasks) of Chianti from my early drinking days in the 1970s, and the light, dreary wine they tended to contain: uninspired, often careless blends of Sangiovese with other local varieties, red and white. There was, of course, aristocratic Montalcino, based on pure Sangiovese and the high-quality Brunello clone, but (as with Bordeaux’s elite today) it was a tiny head sitting atop Tuscany’s vast and unshapely body.

The arrival of new varieties (ironically, from Bordeaux) and the celebrated ‘SuperTuscan’ wines they spawned changed everything, together with the discovery that the formerly derided, mosquito-infested Maremma coastal region actually harboured great terroir for these incomers: Sassicaia and Bolgheri. Squabbles continue about the wisdom of allowing these varieties into the DOCG regulations for Chianti Classico, but let’s stick to the bigger picture: their arrival here was creatively explosive. Cabernet and Merlot (even today, only 6% and 8% of plantings in Tuscany) jolted imagination and excitement into Tuscan wine creation from the 1970s onwards; Sangiovese-based wines, indeed, vastly improved, either in blends or by example. All of this has been worth billions of euros to Tuscan wine producers – and brought huge drinking pleasure to wine lovers around the world.

I was thinking about all this when, returning from Italy to France in late June, I dropped in on the Moretti Cuseri family’s Tenuta Sette Ponti estate in Valdarno. The ‘seven bridges’ of the estate’s name are those historically found, over the Arno river, along the Valdarno valley between Florence and Arezzo. We’re in lower-lying land, here, than the highlands of Chianti Classico further west, whose tangled hills resemble the mass of curly locks atop Roman statues of emperors and warriors.

The family also has an estate deep in the Maremma of southern Tuscany – Poggio al Lupo, southeast of Grosseto; as well as another in the Bolgheri zone – Orma, between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri itself. (They have two estates in Sicily, too.) These three holdings constitute a significant canvas of formerly unheralded Tuscan terroir; what gets planted and vinified in each location offers great potential for creativity. Some 16 different wines are the result.

Having tasted most of the range twice over the last year, there is no doubt in my mind that what works best in these particular Tuscan sites is… Cabernet and Merlot. The family is very proud of its old-vine, pure-Sangiovese Vigna dell’Impero, aged in big wood, and the ‘modernist’ Crognolo (Sangiovese with 10% Merlot aged in barrique). Amedeo Moretti Cuseri calls Vigna dell’Impero ‘our crucial wine’ and says it was the reason his grandfather bought the Tenuta Sette Ponti. But I enjoyed the pure-Merlot Sette and the Bordeaux-blend Oreno more; the Bordeaux-blend Orma from Bolgheri is gorgeous, too. The two terroirs are clearly different: Bolgheri more generous and fleshy; Valdarno tauter, more restrained, more engraved.

Are there lessons for Bordeaux itself in all of this? At 23,000km2, Tuscany covers more than twice Bordeaux’s surface area, and its topography is more diverse, while Bordeaux has many more vineyards (some 108,000ha declared in 2023, compared to 60,000ha in Tuscany, according to the ISMEA institute).

The formula for change certainly can’t be the same. Yet it was free thinking, experiment and imagining a future which can reinvigorate tradition that changed everything in Tuscany. Bordeaux can surely do this, too. Can’t it?

In my glass this month

Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Oreno 2022 (which includes 10% Cabernet Franc for the first time, from vines planted in 2016, alongside 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and a seasoning of Petit Verdot) is aromatically restrained and nuanced: serene red and black fruits dissolve into a pastoral aromatic landscape where smoke and hay play a distant role, too. On the palate, the wine is rosebud-tight, bright and elegant, with fine-textured poise; no hurry to drink.

Related articles

• Andrew Jefford: ‘At that moment, it sunk in. Yes, the Sherry world has changed’
• Andrew Jefford: ‘Just go there. Look around. Stand in the landscape’
• Andrew Jefford: ‘Is this California’s Mediterranean wine lab?’

Four wine styles to consider for a risotto recipe:

• Aromatic whites, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Bacchus
• High acid Italian white wines, such as Pinot Grigio or Pecorino
• Unoaked Chardonnay
• Light red wines, such as Gamay or Pinot Noir

The first rule when making risotto is to avoid using cheap cooking wines, says food writer Pete Dryer. He’s talking about those sub-£7 supermarket wines with not much detail about providence or grape variety.

‘At best they won’t add anything to your finished dish, and at worst they’ll actively make it unpleasant,’ he says.

At the same time, when cooking with wine, don’t dig out one of your best bottles from the cellar either. ‘It won’t be bad but really good wines are wasted on cooking in general,’ adds Dryer.

All rules are meant to be broken occasionally though, just ask Fiona Beckett who recommends Champagne for a risotto recipe in her book The Wine Lover’s Kitchen. She uses a blanc de noirs in her recipe for Champagne and mushroom risotto, arguing that this style of wine adds just the right amount of toasty richness.

‘It might seem wantonly extravagant,’ writes Beckett, ‘but you need only a glass and the bonus is that you can drink the rest with the risotto.’ Fair point.

In general, Dryer advises trying a crisp, dry, unoaked white wine. ‘Pinot Grigio is really versatile – also Sauvignon Blanc; those are the two I would reach for first, and unoaked Chardonnay is fine,’ he says.

‘If you have a dry Vermouth knocking about in a cupboard somewhere, that will also work surprisingly well – you want something that will give you a nice balance of sweetness and acidity.’

He advises against using oaked Chardonnays, wines with lots of body or anything sweeter than off-dry as they may overpower the risotto.’ Balance in key in this dish,’ says Dryer.

‘Sweeter wines can give you a sickly sweet flavour that clings to your palate too.’

What about using red wine in risotto?

Don’t assume that red wine is out of the question; again in her book, Beckett has a recipe for a Pinot Noir and beetroot risotto.

‘You might not think of pouring red wine into a risotto but with beetroot it works beautifully.’

Dryer agrees. ‘It seems a bit weird, but it can work with flavours that traditionally accompany red wine – for example, mushroom risotto can work with red or white wine.’

If you do try a red wine in your risotto, stick to light and dryer styles over fruity and sweet wines. Think Gamay, Pinot Noir and Valpolicella.

Six wine recommendations to use when making risotto

Related articles

• Italian pasta and wine: The best pairings for popular dishes
• Best wine with pizza: Pairing advice plus 15 wines to try
• Pairing wine with fish: What to choose

Bordeaux estate Château Pichon Baron has become the latest property in the region to launch a white cuvée.

The Pauillac cru classé announced that the first vintage of its new white wine – from the 2023 vintage – would be made available through a ‘selected number of chosen négociants’ from October this year.

Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Grand Vin Blanc Sec is a 100% Semillon and will be priced between £45 and £48 per bottle.

The estate made a massal selection of Semillon from Château Suduiraut, its sister property in Sauternes, back in 2018.

The cuttings were then grafted onto 20 year-old vines in a cool, chalky part of the Pichon Baron estate in Pauillac, a vineyard site known as ‘Boua’.

The wine was made with whole bunch pressing and then vinified in one-year-old barrels. It did not undergo malolactic conversion and was aged for nine months in oak with regular lees stirring.

Given current restrictions in current classification laws, it will be bottled as an AOC Bordeaux Blanc Sec.

‘We are extremely pleased with the result, which confirms both our faith in the quality, character and individuality of the Semillon we selected but also our confidence in the quality and suitability of this parcel for making dry white wine at the highest level,’ said the estate.

Growing offering

Pichon Baron’s announcement makes it just the latest in a growing list of Médoc estates adding white wines to their offering.

It was recently announced that Château d’Issan was picking the grapes for its first white cuvée this harvest – albeit from varieties typically found in the Rhône not Bordeaux.

And Decanter also recently examined the development of a new appellation for Médoc blanc which is currently under consideration.

Related articles

• Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Pichon Baron, Pavie, L’Eglise Clinet out
• The Chappellet family and the forging of Napa’s Cabernet identity
• Napa Valley Cabernet 2021: Full report and buyer’s guide to the vintage’s finest wines

Assyrtiko, a robust and versatile grape, has firmly established itself as a symbol of Greek viticulture and has recently become one of the most talked-about varieties in white wine, drawing comparisons to Hungary’s esteemed Furmint.

With its origins on the Aegean island of Santorini, the cultivation of Assyrtiko has spread across Greece, and the exciting wines that have resulted demonstrate the grape’s adaptability to different climates and terroirs.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 thrilling Greek Assyrtiko

Within Greece, the expression of Assyrtiko varies significantly between the mainland and its island of origin. Mainland vineyards typically produce a fruitier, less mineral-intense style than those found on Santorini.

It’s here that Assyrtiko finds its most pronounced expression, the island’s volcanic soils enriching the grape with a distinctive smoky minerality, salinity and depth.

The old, ungrafted vines found in the island’s vineyards are particularly noteworthy, typically trained in a characteristic basket-shaped system known as kouloura to protect them from harsh winds and intense sun.

Old vines, new ideas

On Santorini, innovative winemaking techniques are being used to enhance the natural qualities of Assyrtiko. Extended ageing on the lees adds richness and complexity, resulting in wines with greater body and a creamy texture.

The use of wild yeasts for fermentation introduces unique, indigenous flavours and aromas, further connecting the wines to their specific locale. Microvinification of selected parcels from centenarian vines allows winemakers to explore the full potential of these ancient vineyards, often producing exceptionally concentrated and characterful wines.

Additionally, some winemakers are experimenting with amphorae, which provide a distinctive oxidative environment that influences the wines’ texture and flavour.

Food pairing par excellence

Assyrtiko’s high acidity and robust structure give it exceptional ageability, with the potential to develop complex flavours over time. And this grape is not only confined to producing dry white wines but is also used to create sparkling, sweet and even orange wines, highlighting its wide-ranging potential.

That high acidity and the strong minerality also make Assyrtiko an excellent partner for a wide variety of dishes. Wines made from the grape pair splendidly with raw seafood, enhancing the delicate flavours of oysters and sushi, while their citrussy profile complements dishes such as steamed mussels with lemongrass.

Assyrtiko’s affinity for saffron-infused recipes, such as paella or rich stews, further demonstrates its versatility when it comes to food pairings.

More than just a grape, Assyrtiko is a reflection of Greece’s winemaking heritage and a symbol of its potential for future innovation. As it continues to gain international recognition, Assyrtiko represents not only the excellence of Greek wine but also the dynamic diversity of global white wine trends.

The finest of Greek Assyrtiko to seek out:

Related articles

• Greece’s wine renaissance: Styles to know and the top wines to try
• Expert’s Choice: Vinho Verde
• Expert’s Choice: US Riesling

Your wine choices, as your wardrobe’s, are subject to seasonal review. It’s a matter of weather and it’s a matter of mood. So what does the arrival of autumn (and the faint hope of an Indian summer) call for? Versatile wines with character and food-pairing appeal.

Pale rosés give way to their fuller-bodied counterparts, chillable reds make space in the fridge for rich whites and bolder reds sneak in. Cocktail recipes get zesty and spicy, perfect for longer autumn evenings.

Fittingly-coloured orange wines are also perfect autumnal wines. At once refreshing and generous, for these moody days when sun and rain might be out within the same hour. And as the season’s produce starts to fill market stalls these amber-hued wines will give you perfect and versatile food pairing options.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 12 orange wines to try this autumn

How is orange wine made?

An orange wine is made from white grapes fermented in contact with the skins – hence why they are also called skin-contact wines.

The light hue of most commercially available white wine is a result of the separation of the juice from the skins immediately or shortly after the grapes arrive at the cellar, by pressing the bunches. Fermentation happens without the skins thus preventing the extraction of colour, tannins and other polyphenolic compounds.

The length of maceration (the period when skins are left in contact with the juice before, during and after fermentation) determines the colour intensity of an orange wine. Fermentation temperature as well as the vessel used for fermentation and/or ageing also have a role to play.

As mentioned above, maceration extracts tannins and flavours compounds in addition to colour, which is why orange wines tend to have a distinct textural character (often described as grippy), some weight on the palate and, therefore, great food pairing appeal.

It’s sometimes said that orange wines are ‘white wines produced like a red’. However, historically, fermentation on the skins was the rule for all grapes, red and white, namely because these were often grown and fermented together. The concept of single-varietal wine and mono-varietal planting is very recent in the history of wine.

Even when varieties started being planted and vinified separately, wines were rarely light and clear in the glass. Light-hued white wines are a modern invention, only made possible by modern winemaking techniques such as cold settling, sterile filtration, temperature control and routine use of sulphites. Wines used to have a slight hue due to a degree of oxidation if not skin contact.

Millennial revival

As the industrialisation of wine production took hold, orange wines – perceived as less sophisticated, symbols of a less technologically advanced era – lost territory to modern ‘cleaner’ styles. They survived in regions where the wine sector struggled to establish itself as an industry, such as the Balkans, and at the hands of mavericks such as Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon.

Orange wines were rediscovered at the beginning of the 21st century as part of a backlash against the standardisation of industrially-produced wine and the resulting loss of diversity of grape varieties, styles and traditions.

Orange wine was adopted by the ‘natural wine movement’ as its flagship style and propelled to the international stage as a beacon of resistance to commercially-made wines. Skin-contact became shorthand for low intervention as both producers and consumers increased their awareness of the sustainability implications of mass production.

Countries, like Georgia and Slovenia, where the style had remained firmly in production throughout the 20th century, found a new, enthusiastic audience and encouraged new producers. The vibrant natural wine community in Austria and Italy passionately embraced orange wines, with producers like Gut Oggau, COS, Claus Preisinger and Elisabetta Foradori releasing some of the defining wines of the dawn of the new millennium.

Winemakers in Portugal, Spain and Chile started researching their own regions’ historical iterations of orange wine – especially those produced in clay vessels – while adventurous ‘new world’ winemakers also embraced the style. Even producers in England and Wales are exploring the expressive potential of fermenting white grapes on their skins.

The result was a fresh understanding of the history of many wine regions, of the expressive potential of white varieties, and of how wine styles need to be seen in a spectrum rather than classified as ‘black (or red) or white’.

It’s important not to confuse orange wine and natural wine: the latter is a style while the former is a technique. It follows that not all orange wine is necessarily natural, and vice versa – i.e. skin-contact wine is not necessarily ‘funky’ or low intervention.

While texture and complexity are attributes of all (good) amber-hued wines, they can also be extremely refined. You will find a range of expressions, and both adventurous and classical wine lovers will surely find an orange wine they love. This style is not as divisive as one might think.

Tannins, flavour, texture – perfect food wines

Aromatic complexity, structure and textural character are what make orange wines special. At the crossroads of a red and white wine, they playfully stimulate and challenge the senses. Imagine the freshness and taught acidity of a white wine entwined with the tannic grip and suppleness of a red. What could possibly be better to pair with food?

Many orange wines are perfect companions for cheese platters, smoked fish, root vegetable-based dishes and roasted meat. They usually have a herbal, savoury edge that brings a meal’s flavours to life, supported by gentle tannins and firm acidity.

Best enjoyed only slightly chilled, skin-contact wines have a fresh vibrancy but also a sense of textural warmth, perfect to ease yourself into autumn’s mood. Nothing better than a picnic with a amber-hued bottle alongside the season’s harvest bounty – grapes, pear and Mediterranean citrus – before the winter’s loom sets in.

Great orange wines for autumn – 12 to try:

The wines below have been tasted and rated by Decanter’s editorial team and contributors.

Related articles

• Amphora and clay wines: 20 ancient and modern styles to seek out
•  Dark rosé wines for late summer drinking – 15 to try
• The rise of English and Welsh orange wine