Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Champagne 1996
One of the better ’96s, still with everything holding together despite a challenging vintage. The ripe acidity is woven into a fine whole of expressive cherry, peach & yellow plum flavours, in tune with scented lemon and grapefruit tones. The sense of place is palpable, the pervasive minerality shaped by the shallow soils, allowing the vine to burrow straight into the chalk. Very distinctive.
Taster: Michael Edwards