Salon, Le Mesnil Cuvée S Blanc de Blancs, Champagne 1996
Still pale yellow with shimmers of green. The aromas are tight, green apple ceding to lemon and grapefruit. With air, richer tones of pear, peach and kiwi emerge. Even at 20 years it’s still a huge wine, virile and muscular. Maybe only halfway through its life too – one hopes. Richer subtleties may appear given another decade. I still think a partial use of oak would make the wine friendlier and more complex.
Taster: Michael Edwards