Kilikanoon, Mort's Reserve Riesling, Clare Valley

Kilikanoon, in the hamlet of Penwortham, was founded in 1997 by winemaker Kevin Mitchell. Mort’s Reserve – only made in the finest vintages – is mainly from the Mort’s Block vineyard, named after Mitchell’s father who tended the vines there for more than 40 years. It is also blended with fruit from the higher-altitude Khileyre vineyard. Roger Jones: Great aromatic purity of wild flowers, minerality and wet stones. A voluptuous texture in the mouth, where citrus and white stone fruit shine. Evolving beautifully; savoury and sweetness in tandem. A star! Sarah Knowles MW: Grapefruit and lime peel on nose and palate, then lanolin and gun smoke on the finish. Complete and complex, retaining youthful fruit. Anthony Rose: Attractive, smoky sweet pepper nose – a nicely evolved, classic style, with a charming texture, balance and a beautiful bone-dry finish.