Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Arioso, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2014

In Burgundy, Mounir Saouma is not a big fan of red wines made with stems, but he says he loves the effect of stems of old-vine Grenache in Châteauneuf - though other red varieties are destemmed. This pale wine is fresh, graceful and lifted, a haunting combination of sweet woodland strawberry fragrance with something much stonier, denser and meatier. The 36 months on lees have left the wine textured, juicy, full and savourous. It appears grippy under analysis, yet the tannins are so well clad that they don’t perturb. It’s an ample, searching and fine red wine, proving that width and finesse can go together in Châteauneuf.