Philippe & Sylvain Ravier, Les Abymes, Abymes, Savoie, 2017

A glinting green-silver in colour, with fresh, yeasty apple skin and nettle sap scents. The palate is vivid, crunchy, bright and high-focus, with a cascade of lemon and apple, like a supercharged koshu - is it any wonder Apremont and Abymes sell so well in Japan? The finish is faintly bitter and saline, and the touch of spritz puts wax on its skis.