Vintage preview: These new Brunello di Montalcino 2021s caught our expert’s attention

The first of Canalicchio di Sopra’s Brunellos to be picked, on 22 September, Montosoli demonstrates the vintage’s vibrancy of expression with arresting intensity. Lavender, violet and liquorice waft headily from a backdrop of wet stone. Endlessly layered with tangy berries, it suggests greater density than previous releases while retaining its innate verticality. Stony tannins keep everything in check, and frisky acidity imparts a thrilling edginess. Such a long, bitter orange and alpine herb finish. Pure class.

An engaging bouquet of red fruit, followed by floral and spicy notes. The dense texture with unintrusive tannins is captivatingly dynamic on the palate. Generous pulp provides a sense of enjoyment through to the long finish. Gianni Pignattai's six hectares, divided into five plots at altitudes of 350 to 550 metres above sea level, have different and complementary soils covering every cardinal point of the denomination.

From a 450-metre-high cru with vines partly over 31 years of age, Piaggione's elegant bouquet boasts floral notes, crisp fruit and spicy hints. The lively and sapid texture on the palate is engaging. Covering 4.5 hectares southeast of Montalcino, it was the first winery in the denomination to be certified organic, in 1996, and has been certified biodynamic since 2022.

Distinct notes of cherry, plum, flowers and spice. A model of Montalcino authority whose sapid, flavoursome and lengthy development express a rich texture, ripe tannins, visceral energy and dynamism. From a 560-metre-high historic estate adjacent to Montalcino’s 14th century walls and the Madonna del Soccorso Sanctuary (hence the name). Historic Montalcino oenologist, Enzo Tiezzi and daughter Monica, manage the six hectares organically.

Sensorially direct and appealing with notes of red fruit and a hint of spice. The tension, texture, flavour range and enveloping character is remarkable, while a pleasant juicy finish invites a further sip. The castle, set among 13 hectares of certified-organic vineyards on the northern slope of Montalcino, is dated to 1441. Tommaso Squarcia, son of Emanuele who planted the vineyards in 1995, passionately oversees the entire production cycle.

With vineyards to the east of the town, Fuligni follows a traditional approach, normally releasing just one Brunello, and a Riserva in selected vintages. The estate’s flagship annata bottling is crafted to be accessible in its youth. In 2021, it demonstrates that affability without divulging all at once or sacrificing ageing potential. Veiled in dark earthy nuances to begin, aromas gain in precision with each swirl. Heady scents of violet and lilac lead to the velvety palate, where fleshy cherry and apricot are swaddled in caressing tannins that you can sink your teeth into. These bite back with chalky confidence. With beams of bright acidity throughout, this lingers with pure pleasure.

An exciting new Brunello from Lisini, Poggio Severo is selected from two plots at a lofty 530 metres planted in 2007. Decidedly and captivatingly earthy, it is redolent of chestnut, iris root, lovage and mint. Full without being obviously generous, it builds with commanding presence. Sinewy tannins impart textural intrigue. These are still a bit rigid and wound-up. A cool mineral edge laces the red plum core. Less immediately joyful than the estate’s classic bottling, it will require patience. But oh, what lurks! Just 3,000 bottles produced.

Irresistible floral suggestions with blackcurrant and blood orange notes emphasising the integrity of the fruit. A pulpy wine with lively sensory energy, enlivened by richness and structure, and tannins that, while not yet fully extended, still maintain the sensual texture. Gigliola Gelmetti's five hectares of certified organic vineyards are about 500 metres above sea level in the western part of the denomination.

Giacomo Bartolommei says he started harvesting this on 6 September – a week earlier than the already precocious 2020. Due to the heat, he also decided not to make his AdAlberto Riserva, meaning lots from those 1960s plantings ended up here. It wafts evocatively with terracotta, warm dusty earth, wild red berries and sunbaked scrub. Expansive and broad, the palate simmers with darker fruit tones. Powdery tannins build to a clayey mass as it progresses, clinging tenaciously. Reprieve comes with the tangy saline denouement.

An openly captivating bouquet with notes of red fruit and wild thyme. The austerity of Ciolfi's wines becomes elegance and finesse in this vintage with ripe, velvety tannins and a smooth, harmonious finish. Luciano Ciolfi owns seven hectares of organic vineyards at an altitude of 500 metres, on the western side of the denomination.