The Voyage, Durif, Victoria, Australia 2020

Durif (aka Petite Sirah) loves hot, dry climates so its small berries often deliver intensely tannic, high-alcohol reds. This one, from Boutinot, is a revelation: the glass-staining colour suggests it's going to be big and heavy, but the perfume and flavour is all raspberry purée and powdery florals, enlivened by crisp acidity and chalky tannins. Delicious! Available online only.