Sainsbury's, Taste the Difference Chablis Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy, France 2022

Made for Sainsbury's by established Chablis producer J Moreau & Fils, this opens with appealing aromas of honey on buttered toast. A portion of oak agaeing (30%) adds texture to the fresh citrus palate, with sweetly honeyed, meadow flower notes balanced by brisk acidity and a touch of salinity; all underpinned by a firm mineral backbone. The old vine fruit is expressive; great value for the price.

One of the best of the UK’s many supermarket Chablis, this has an extra degree of luminous concentration and fluency when set alongside its peers, the result, perhaps, of sourcing fruit from those titular old vines, which bring a touch of tropical richness that contrasts nicely with the clean racy acidity.