Delacourt, Brut, Champagne, France, 2004

Made by cellarmaster Elisabeth Sarcelet and a predominantly female winemaking team, this wine has a complex nose of sourdough, preserved fruits and savoury soya. Pronounced flavours of honey, bruised apple and yeasty biscuits are followed by an extremely long, mouthwatering finish. At £30 a bottle, it's not cheap but the 2004 is a real treat for those who enjoy mature Champagne.