Devaux, Blanc de Blanc Brut, Champagne, France NV

Both the Côte des Bar and the high-performing local cooperative Devaux may be better known for Pinot Noir, but this blanc de blancs shows how good Chardonnay can be in this Chablis-adjacent corner of Champagne. It's graceful, with a soft, lemon-inflected mousse, juicy red apples and a racy, lithe finish.