Chassaux et Fils, Specially Selected, Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2023

A perennial favourite with the Decanter team each vintage, this has everything you want from the fashionable Picpoul ('lip-stinger') grape: a minerally tang of oyster shell and sea herbs, a squeeze of bright citrus and laser-sharp acidity that keeps the tongue tingling. Bracing, bone dry and a winner with a seafood platter.