Domaine Bardi d'Alquier, La Bastide, Faugères, 2022

The star here is old Syrah vines, a massale selection from the northern Rhône and planted in 1964, along with Grenache and Mourvèdre too. It's deep and concentrated in aroma and flavour, yet has a swirling, soaring floral lift that sends the aromas spinning out of the glass. Black forest berries blend with tiny touches of lavender, thyme and juniper, and it has this gorgeous smiling charm, making it incredibly moreish and drinkable while being complex and intense. The idea is gentle infusion instead of extraction, resulting in a fine lacy texture, great purity of fruit and impressive delicacy. Deep in its core is a firm ferrous character, making it distinctly Faugères.