Domaine Santa Duc, Les Hautes Garrigues, Gigondas, Rhône, 2016

One of the top cuvées from a leading Gigondas domaine, from 75-year-old biodynamically grown, co-planted Grenache and Mourvèdre vines grown on stony, sandy, red clay soils. It is matured for 18 months in Stockinger foudres and terracotta amphorae, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. There’s great aromatic vibrancy, and an electric crackle to the lavender, damson and plum fruit. Full-bodied but no heaviness; it has crisp acidity cutting through the ripe berry coulis. This has the intensity, freshness and zest you would hope for from a great Gigondas. Long, persistent flavours, with a lifted, tremulous finish. Great energy and focus. Drink now or, even better, wait until 2028, but it will drink well until at least 2036.