Claudio Alario, Sorì Costa Fiore, Dolcetto di Diano d'Alba, Piedmont 2020

Claudio Alario manages this small family concern, founded in the 1900s, on 10 hectares. His earliest bottles were Dolcetto, a beloved but rather tricky grape (in the Langhe, they say it’s harder to make a good Dolcetto than a Barolo). Here, 50-year-old vines, meticulous nurturing and expertise all work their magic. Only steel is used for this wine, preserving its raspberry and redcurrant notes, with a refined tannic texture underpinned by a lingering fresh streak.