Kurambon Wine, N Koshu, Yamanashi, Japan 2023

The Katsunuma-based winery first started producing wine in 1913. The N Koshu (N stands for natural) is crafted using grapes from the winery's own organic vineyards. Fermented with indigenous yeast, partially in used French oak, and bottled unfiltered, it showcases a creamy nose of bruised red apple and blood orange. A concentrated palate of sweet apple peel, yuzu and crushed nuts leads to a long finish, with umami depth lingering on.

The N Koshu (N refers to the Nozawa family) opens with a spiced nose of golden apple, citrus, nutmeg and sweet potato. With ginger tingling on the tongue, the palate unpacks vanilla, osmanthus blossom, quince and citrus zest, with a lift of freshness to the long, acacia-honeyed finish. Wild-yeast fermented and aged in barrel, then bottled unfiltered. Also to be tried is the N Blanc, a field blend of Chardonnay, Viognier and Albariño from the Shichihyo Chibatake vineyard, for its masterfully orchestrated complexity and balance.