Marques de Murrieta, Dalmau Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2021

From a single plot at 465m, Canajas, planted in 1950, this is the most elegant Dalmau released to date. A Tempranillo-based blend with Graciano and Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers intense aromas of dark berry fruit, dates and spice but the palate is lifted with a stony, almost chalky texture, and wonderful layers of potpourri and blueberry fruit. 17 months in French oak bring a touch of graphite tension, but the further 10 months in concrete is key, resulting in a wine with muscular, sculpted elegance.