Remírez de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2012

Remírez de Ganuza, in the very heart of the lovely village of Samaniego, is all about scrupulous attention to detail. The selection of the fruit shows itself in the richness and purity of the wine. The addition of skins and juice from the white grapes adds depth. It’s aged in French oak, with some American to round out the vintage, and has a long a very bright finish. A modern classic, from a super-reliable winery.

Remírez de Ganuza was one of the first wineries in Rioja to employ a sorting table and its selection of fruit is reflected in the purity of flavours in its wines. Mostly Tempranillo; skins and juice from the white grape Viura add freshness. Over a decade on, this still has plenty of primary black fruit on the nose and palate, alongside evolved aromas of undergrowth and cedary oak. Bright notes of plum and red berries weave through the deep, structured palate, with a long savoury finish.

Remírez de Ganuza's addition of a pied de cuve of white grapes to its Reserva gives it the lift and juicy florality, underpinning the muscular core of black and blue fruit that have made it its trademark. This 2012 is drinking beautifully now, with a vivid palate, soft yet pulling tannins and a great balance to the fruit, luscious but already showing broody dryness. Lovely on the mid palate, with succulence offset by great acid drive.