In this narrow region you’re never far from either sea or inland wineries, and always surrounded by beautiful scenery and superb food.
Puglia travel guide: Where to stay, eat, shop and relax
Puglia hotels
Hotel Marè Resort, Trani
Comfortable, modern interiors in an 18th-century noble palazzo in the heart of the port. mareresort.it
Cefalicchio, Canosa di Puglia
This up-and-coming biodynamic wine estate, in partnership with Campania’s Feudi di San Gregorio, makes fine wines from Nero di Troia. It also operates as a lovely country house B&B between Trani and Bari. cefalicchio.it
Masseria Murgia Albanese, Noci
In the countryside between Noci, Alberobello and Locorotondo, this rustic B&B in an 18th-century masseria offers the chance to stay on a working livestock farm. murgiaalbanese.it
Grande Albergo Internazionale, Brindisi
This hotel’s friendly service and centre-stage positioning makes up for its faded grandeur, but the effect is positive and it’s great to overlook the harbour and be a few steps from the city’s many piazzas. albergointernazionale.it
Hotel Corte Borromeo, Manduria
In a historical palazzo in the centre of town, this finely appointed hotel is perfect for Primitivo lovers in search of comfort and joy in one of the grape’s epicentres. corteborromeohotel.it
Puglia restaurants
Le Lampare al Fortino, Trani
A panoramic restaurant sitting on the dock of the bay in a deconsecrated church serves imaginative, super-fresh fish dishes. lelamparealfortino.it
Trattoria Pugliese, Gioia del Colle
In the town centre, a few steps from one of Frederick II’s stunning castles, this family trattoria is run by a sommelier and her Sicilian husband, so the food and wine are great and won’t break the bank. Via Concezione 9-11, +39 080 343 1728
Acquasale, Ostuni
This is London chef Theo Randall’s favourite restaurant in Ostuni. It’s near the cathedral, so leave time to explore the beautiful white hill-town before or after your meal. Via Peppino Orlando 2; tel +39 0831 330 302
Osteria Già Sotto l’Arco, Carovigno
In one of Puglia’s most acclaimed restaurants, Michelin-starred chef Teresa Galeone cooks elegant, creative food in a Baroque palazzo. giasottolarco.it
Ristorante Piazzetta Colonne, Brindisi
Situated overlooking Brindisi’s harbour, at the base of the gargantuan Roman column that is one of the city’s prized monuments, this family-run eatery offers authentic Puglian specialities, with pasta, fish and vegetables taking pride of place. Via Colonne 57; tel +39 0831 172 0488
Li Cannaruti Vineria, Manduria
This restaurant and wine bar, centrally located in the market square of the handsome town of Manduria, offers home-cooked food from the area with wines to match. Piazza Commestibili 7-14; tel +39 338 365 5040
La Corte dei Vescovi, Manduria
In open country on the road that leads from Manduria to the sea, this agriturismo restaurant in a pretty converted country farmhouse offers traditional local fare near the Primitivo vineyards. Ample wine list. Via Sorani km2; tel +39 349 387 1021
Puglia shops
Piazza Mercato, Brindisi
The marketplace in the port of Brindisi is well worth a visit if you enjoy seeing small farmers and local fishermen sell their wares. There’s also a marvellous traditional grain and seed shop in the piazza selling sun-dried tomatoes, dried fava beans for making the classic Puglian purée, salted capers and much more. Open mornings.