Nizza: Six wines to make you think again about Barbera

Barbera may never be as highly regarded as Nebbiolo (the grape that makes Barolo and Barbaresco), but in the Asti province of Piedmont it is the lifeblood of local vintners.

For the past five decades, winemakers here have laboured to improve both the quality and reputation of the grape, with the most ambitious and successful enterprise being the creation of the Nizza DOC – originally a subzone of Barbera d’Asti Superiore – in 2000.

Along with well defined boundaries, what makes the wines of Nizza stand out is that the production regulations stipulate low yields – lower even than for Barbaresco.

‘This means that you typically need an old vineyard that produces less quantity’, explains Stefano Chiarlo, director of the Nizza consorzio.

Compared with Barbera d’Asti, which originates from a much broader area, Stefano Gagliardo of Tenuta Garetto explains that: ‘Nizza tends to show a more consistent profile, with greater structure, density and capacity to evolve, expressing a deeper and more complete interpretation of the Barbera grape.’

Mosaic of soils

While Nizza is still in its adolescent stage, communal differences have emerged.

Gagliardo notes that sandy marl soils are typical in Agliano Terme; these tend to produce wines with ‘aromatic precision, freshness and energy’.

Nizza Monferrato, at the centre of the appellation, shows ‘greater diversity in soils and exposure’, resulting in wines that display greater stylistic differences.

The mosaic of soils from Castelnuovo Calcea combine calcareous marls, clays and sandy components.

Gagliardo says that, ‘the balance between these elements often determines whether a wine leans toward power or elegance'.

A matter of wood

While many Nizza producers formerly matured their wines in barrique for a spicier and more vigorous wine, that approach has largely changed.

At Frasca in Agliano Terme, winemaker Matteo Gerbi uses large oak casks of between 2,500 and 4,500 litres.

He says that these casks are, ‘functional in maturing the tannins and smoothing out the edges, without adding too many tertiary notes that are not in line with my idea of Nizza’.

At Marenco, Andrea Costa uses 500 litre French oak tonneaux for his Zana Riserva; among the most refined of all Nizza wines.

‘We thought this size was the optimum compromise for our Zana wine to fix the tannins and still grant the expression of the fruit,’ he says.

However, there are some Nizza producers that still vinify with smaller oak, most notably Prunotto.

Gianluca Torrengo, oenologist and estate director, explains that the estate’s Nizza Riserva ‘Costamiòle’ – named for the eponymous hill in Agliano Terme – was conceived in 1996 with the idea of ageing the wine in barrique.

‘And that vision remains central to its identity’, he says.

For the 2020 vintage, the wine was aged for approximately 12 months in new French barriques.

Torrengo views the role of barriques as contributing structure, complexity and textural depth, while at the same time preserving the freshness and character of Barbera and allowing the wine’s terroir to remain clearly expressed.

‘In short,’ he explains, ‘barriques for Costamiòle are not a stylistic choice dictated by fashion, but a coherent part of the wine’s history, interpreted today with greater sensitivity and precision.’

How does Nizza compare to Piedmont's other Barbera wines?

Noting the difference between a Barbera d’Asti (or even a Barbera d’Asti Superiore) and a Nizza, Torrengo explains that for the latter, yields are lower, ripening is more complete, and the regulations require longer ageing periods.

These are all factors that he believes provide for greater substance, balance and the ability to evolve over time.

‘While Barbera d’Asti is often defined by immediacy and approachability, Nizza aims for a more ambitious, terroir-driven interpretation, combining the natural energy of the variety with the structure of a serious, ageworthy red wine.’

While the most successful markets for Nizza have been Italy and northern Europe, the wine’s identity is not commonplace in other countries.

‘Unfortunately, it is a relatively young denomination and is not yet very well known’, admits Giovanna Garesio of the eponymous winery.

Chiarlo however, has witnessed impressive growth since 2016, when the 2014 Nizza DOCG wines were first released.

He says: ‘Since it was decided to use the Nizza appellation, starting from 30 producers with 30 labels accounting for less than 300,000 bottles sold, we now have more than 100 producers with more than 200 labels, with just over one million bottles sold, of which 60% are in 40 different markets.

'But there is still much more to do in order to create more confidence and familiarity among wine lovers.’

Tom's six Nizza wines to try:

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