Get to know Southern Rhône: Good, better, best
Have you ever wanted to know more about a great wine region but didn’t know where to start? Matt Walls explains what makes wines of Southern Rhône great, and to chose three bottles – good (affordable), better (medium-priced) and best (money no object) – to take you there....
Where would you like to start your journey? The airy peaks of the Dentelles de Montmirail, the wild Camargue delta, the picturesque villages of the Luberon… take your pick. The southern Rhône is a gorgeous gallimaufry of a wine region, rambling and soulful.
It’s dominated by Châteauneuf-du-Pape at its heart, but there are 40 more appellations to explore, each with its own character. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Some of the named villages – such as Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, Visan and Massif d’Uchaux – are home to delicious wines of place that offer unequalled value for money, within the Rhône or anywhere else.
Southern Rhône styles
Its cornucopia of grape varieties is another calling card. Grenache captures the sun and warmth of the place, propped up on either side by Syrah and Mourvèdre, with a gaggle of local specialities such as Counoise and Vaccarèse bringing detail, complexity and personality.
The result is red wines that are generous in flavour and texture, but rarely jammy or confected; they retain asavoury edge that makes them versatile with food. Most are approachable young, but try to stick some deep in the cellar. The best Châteauneuf and Gigondas only reach their full expression after a good 10 years. And let’s not forget about the opulent and expressive whites and rosés.
This is an expansive, hot, dry region, and not all wines are reliably fresh and balanced; quality is more mixed here than in northern Rhône. Getting a feel for which domaines have exceptional terroir and skilled winemaking is important. But this is a region that’s still discovering itself, so that list grows longer every year.
Good: E Guigal, Côtes du Rhône 2017 – 90 points
Better: Domaine Santa Duc, Les Hautes Garrigues, Gigondas 2016 – 95 points
Best: Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000 – 97 points
Matt Walls’ Southern Rhône picks:
Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2000
Clos des Papes is one of the greatest estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape – indeed the whole of France – with roots going as far back as 1600. With this in mind, the wines remain remarkably good value. They are the model of Châteauneuf balance and finesse, and that gives them the ability to develop beautifully in bottle for decades. At 20 years of age, this 2000 is at a perfect stage of drinkability – it has taken on complexity but hasn’t yet lost any succulence. Great brightness of tannin and acidity, still fresh. A great vintage? Not in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, no. But is this a delicious, fully mature and balanced wine to drink now? Absolutely. Organic.
2000
Clos des PapesChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Santa Duc, Les Hautes Garrigues, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2016
One of the top cuvées from a leading Gigondas domaine, from 75-year-old biodynamically grown, co-planted Grenache and Mourvèdre vines grown on stony, sandy, red clay soils. It is matured for 18 months in Stockinger foudres and terracotta amphorae, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. There’s great aromatic vibrancy, and an electric crackle to the lavender, damson and plum fruit. Full-bodied but no heaviness; it has crisp acidity cutting through the ripe berry coulis. This has the intensity, freshness and zest you would hope for from a great Gigondas. Long, persistent flavours, with a lifted, tremulous finish. Great energy and focus. Drink now or, even better, wait until 2028, but it will drink well until at least 2036.
2016
Domaine Santa DucGigondas
E Guigal, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2017
Considering Guigal makes about 4m bottles of Côtes du Rhône a year, with fruit sourced from across the Rhône Valley, the consistency, typicity and quality across all three colours is impressive. The red is generally released after a few years in bottle. The 2017 is a touch darker than the 2016, and I like its deep, brambly nature, with plenty of dark plum and blackberry. It has the warming sunshine that the southern Rhône expresses so well. It’s rounded, generous and full-bodied but with a good sense of inner freshness. The acidity is marked enough to match the concentration and alcohol, leading to a richly fruited finish, with gentle chewy tannins.
2017
E GuigalCôtes du Rhône
