Sauternes 2017
The Sauternes 2017 en primeur tasting
(Image credit: Miguel Lecuona/ Decanter)

Jane Anson's scores and tasting notes for the Sauternes 2017 wines, exclusive to Decanter Premium members...

See all Sauternes 2017 wines 


Some wonderfully rich and ripe Sauternes and Barsac wines can be found in the Bordeaux 2017 vintage, but unusually the brilliant dry white wine vintage does not quite so easily translate to a truly exceptional sweet wine one this year.

The challenge was the gap of four to five weeks between the ripening of the white grapes and the onset of the noble rot. Sauternes had just 37mm of rain across July and August, which meant early ripening of white grapes.

The cool mid-August weather was great for ripening of white grapes while retaining freshness and ensuring high and concentrated aromatics. But maintaining those characteristics is not easy in white grapes, particularly the aromatics in Sauvignon Blanc. Most dry whites were being brought in by the third week of September.

The dry August mean there were a few less instances of the famous Sauternes mists that usually occur from late August onwards and that kickstart the botrytis. It meant that some of the grapes that had been left for the sweet wine began to over-concentrate with a touch of raisining.

The 65mm that fell from September 1 to 16 were essential, because this then began the process of botrytis, and in the end harvest was fully underway by the third and fourth week of September.

Careful sorting was essential, as was picking quickly to preserve as much freshness as possible.

This is a rich and gourmet vintage, some wonderful wines for hedonists, somewhere close to 2009 in style says Sandrine Garbay at Yquem, similar for its early ripeness and then rich botrytis coming behind.

But low acidity means many of the wines lack a little contrast between light and shade, sweetness and bitterness – something that in my experience this style of wines need to be truly thrilling.


Jane Anson’s top Sauternes 2017 wines

Château Guiraud was ‘one of the successes of the appellation’ writes Anson, with a ‘silky and concentrated’ wine.

Château Doisy-Daëne, l’Extravagant is ‘a fantastic example of accomplished winemaking’ and Château de Fargues is ‘really utterly delicious.’

The wines below all scored 91 points and above. Find all Sauternes 2017 wines here


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Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé Superieur, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Still very youthful with light golden colours, showing flashes of green in the glass. Intensely aromatic with tropical fruit notes, pineapple, roasted apricot, honey and...

2017

BordeauxFrance

Château d'YquemSauternes

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Château de Fargues, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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As ever, the complexity and raciness of this wine just stands out. Its flavours of mandarin, lime, saffron and slatey minerality are extremely elegant, and...

2017

BordeauxFrance

Château de FarguesSauternes

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Château Doisy-Daëne, l'Extravagance, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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It's very hard not to be impressed with this wine. Extremely silky, this has an almost pure mandarin flavour, shot through with some lovely blood...

2017

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Château Doisy-DaëneSauternes

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Château Coutet, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Rich sunflower yellow in colour, this has a good concentration of subtle spiced ginger on the nose, followed by rich citrus and apricot tart flavours,...

2017

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Château CoutetSauternes

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Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Silky and concentrated, this is one of the successes of the appellation for me. It has lovely zest and zip, with touches of candied ginger...

2017

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Château GuiraudSauternes

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Château Rieussec, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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An exceptional wine, this is just stuffed full of exotic fruits, layers of apricot, saffron, truffle and citrus, all powering through the palate with a...

2017

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Château RieussecSauternes

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Château Doisy-Védrines, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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A well judged wine with a good attack, showing nectarines, tinned peaches, lemongrass, white pepper and touches of truffle. The acidity could be a touch...

2017

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Château Doisy-VédrinesSauternes

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Château Sigalas Rabaud, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Laure has been selecting only the best plots for this wine for several years, increasing production of her dry whites elsewhere in the vineyard. This...

2017

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Château Sigalas RabaudSauternes

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Château Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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This has a lovely intensity of quince, citrus and bright stone fruits, with a very attractive balancing acidity. The aromatics are not quite as sharp...

2017

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Château Raymond-LafonSauternes

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Château Broustet, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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A good job from this estate, with subdued citrus aromas leading into an extremely silky palate. The attack kicks in with exotic mangos and nectarines,...

2017

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Château BroustetSauternes

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Château de Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Pineapple comes through clearly on the nose here, leading to an extremely distinct palate with a rich, silky mouthfeel, good impact and notable fresh acidity....

2017

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Château de Rayne VigneauSauternes

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Château Cantegril, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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A rich but well-measured Sauternes, this is packed full of nectarine pits, rich peaches, grilled almond and tobacco notes, joined by the saffron and white...

2017

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Château CantegrilSauternes

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Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Showing concentrated layers of fleshy mango and tinned peaches, this manages to maintain its exotic intensity without being dragged down by its own weight. There's...

2017

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Château La Tour BlancheSauternes

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Château Rabaud-Promis, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Rich sunflower in colour, this is more concentrated than some, showing good intensity and a lovely texture through the palate. It features a gathering together...

2017

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Château Rabaud-PromisSauternes

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Château Filhot, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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A very charming, medium-term Sauternes with a spring in its step. It has soft lemongrass aromatics and lovely bright reflections. I like the fresh lift...

2017

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Château FilhotSauternes

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Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

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Pure, round and compact. Lower acidity but the persistent floral and mandarin citrus aromatics offer charm and freshness. Gentle, bitter orange finish.

2017

BordeauxFrance

Château Lafaurie-PeyragueySauternes

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Jane Anson

Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.

Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year