Top Bordeaux dry whites from 2017
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En primeur tastings may have shown Bordeaux 2017 to be uneven for red wines, but it's shaping up to be a five-star vintage for the region's dry whites, says Jane Anson. See her scores and tasting notes, exclusively for Decanter Premium members...
Top Bordeaux dry whites 2017
Bordeaux 2017 is an exceptional dry white vintage, as noted in my Bordeaux 2017 vintage overview.
You can feel hugely confident buying Pessac-Léognan and other big name whites, although sadly volumes are often way down.
All Graves whites 2017
All Pessac whites 2017
All Bordeaux Blancs 2017
White grapes are usually planted on the cooler soils, as these are grapes that don’t appreciate heat like the red ones do, and that made them more vulnerable to frost.
So Aile d’Argent, for example, lost two out of its five plots of white, while down in Pessac-Léognan Château Rouillac made just 12,00 bottles of white, around one third of their usual quantity.
But what is there is exceptional, and both Pavillon Blanc and La Mission Haut Brion Blanc got my only (potential) 100 points this year, with several others getting between 95 and 98.
In terms of value for money, AOC Bordeaux Blanc is going to be exceptional in 2017, and I fully recommend getting on board.
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Jane’s top scorers from 2017
Margaux has plenty of aromatics – seen across many of the dry whites this year – thanks to the cool summer nights.
Smith Haut Lafitte made a ‘sophisticated white’ which will age beautifully.
The following Bordeaux dry whites have all scored 91 points or above. Use links above to search the rest.
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Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

For me this is the wine of the vintage. Both of the whites in the Haut-Brion stable are exceptionally well sculpted and finessed, but this...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château La Mission Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Both La Mission and Haut Brion Blanc are incredibly accomplished, sit-up-and-take-notice whites this year, showcasing the potential brilliance and longevity of white wines in 2017....
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A sophisticated, grown up white with the most beautifully placed savoury white peach flesh, shadowed by lime and tea leaves, and enclosed by slate. The...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Cos d'Estournel, Blanc de Cos d'Estournel, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is totally delicious, the best Cos white for many years. There's excellent shape and form through the palate, with a huge intensity of flavour....
2017
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Château Cos d'EstournelBordeaux Blanc
Château Carbonnieux, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2014

Knife-edge fresh citrus and lime blossom. Lean mid-palate – again, seems a characteristic of the vintage. 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon and just 20% new...
2014
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Château CarbonnieuxPessac-Léognan
Château Olivier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Subtle notes of charred wood, linseed and nutmeg with citrussy fruits. Crisp, with great purity of fruit beautifully melded with oak character.
2017
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Château OlivierPessac-Léognan
Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This has a tautness and an intensity to it, with extremely well placed citrus and white peach flesh, a lick of fresh slate and some...
2017
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Château Pape ClémentPessac-Léognan
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Slightly reticent on the nose, with subtle creaminess and savoury spice. Full-bodied and opulent in style with vibrant acidity.
2017
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Domaine de ChevalierPessac-Léognan
Château Lynch-Bages, Blanc de Lynch-Bages, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Utterly gorgeous freshness and zip, with intensity of flavour. It has a little more Sémillon than usual, due to frost affect the Sauvignon Blanc, which...
2017
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Château Lynch-BagesBordeaux Blanc
Château Gazin Rocquencourt, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is an excellent white, the best example I have tasted from this chateau. An intense Sauvignon nose of citrus, touches of grass and passion...
2017
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Château Gazin RocquencourtPessac-Léognan
Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This has the estate signature, which always has a touch of glamour in its whites. It's gorgeous, vibrant and extremely bright, with creamy apricot and...
2017
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Château BrownPessac-Léognan
Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Dried grapefruit peel, nutmeg and dried herbs come through on the nose. Silky textured with honeyed fruit flavours and a savoury finish.
2017
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Château La LouvièrePessac-Léognan
Clos Floridène, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Jean-Jacques has done a great job in a vintage that you just know his father Denis Dubourdieu would have loved to make. 2017 has produced...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Clos FloridèneGraves
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, La Clarté de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is an exceptionally good Clarté, a second wine to buy this year if you possibly can, underlining just what exceptional whites have been produced...
2017
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Château La Mission Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Bouscaut, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This has grilled edging with a whiff of rubber reduction that clears in the glass. In the mouth there's a good weight of fruit and...
2017
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Château BouscautPessac-Léognan
Château Sigalas Rabaud, La Sémillante, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A 100% Sémillon dry white from Sigalas Rabaud, which I love this year. It has that Sauternes signature, tasting a little exotic with a rich,...
2017
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Château Sigalas RabaudBordeaux Blanc
Le Nardian, Lugaignac, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Clear and bright gourmet apricot along with lemon curd flavours. This has has a lovely push through the palate, where it acquires sculpted rosemary and...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Le NardianBordeaux Blanc
Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is excellent quality, punching right off the bat with a mouthwatering blend of citrus and stone fruits, followed by a wave of rosemary and...
2017
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Château Malartic-LagravièrePessac-Léognan
Château St-Robert, Poncet-Deville, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

There is no red this year due to frost, but there is a white, and it's good. Extremely precise and well-finessed aromatics from the first...
2017
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Château St-RobertGraves
Château Doisy-Daëne, Grand Vin Sec, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This dry white from Doisy-Daëne is a lively pale gold colour. It's bright, tight, firm and sculpted, with some verve through the palate. An impressive...
2017
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Château Doisy-DaëneBordeaux Blanc
Château La Garde, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is an excellent La Garde, a success in both red and white guises in a vintage that was not clear cut. Clever use of...
2017
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Château La GardePessac-Léognan
Château Rieussec, R de Rieussec, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Rieussec's dry white is intense and concentrated, with exotic fruit, fleshy white pear and white peaches. It has great length and tons of minerality. A...
2017
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Château RieussecBordeaux Blanc
Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

They suffered around 35% frost loss here in 2017, meaning just 1,200 bottles of white were produced this year - coming from the vines in...
2017
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Château de RouillacPessac-Léognan
Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

An impressive, fruit-filled, intense white this year, with gorgeous minerality and well-balanced creamy citrus fruits. Fermented in barrel with lees stirring.
2017
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Château de CruzeauPessac-Léognan
Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Closed right now but with clear potential. I love the flinty gunsmoke character alongside plenty of tension that softens and expands through the mid palate...
2017
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Château Couhins-LurtonPessac-Léognan
Château de Chantegrive, Cuvée Caroline, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This estate was badly affected by frost - a real loss for the appellation, as this is one of the leading lights. But they have...
2017
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Château de ChantegriveGraves
Château de Cérons, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Caroline and Xavier Perromat have made this estate one of the unmissable Graves names. Aged in stainless steel, which perhaps contributes to the slightly reductive,...
2017
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Château de CéronsGraves
Château Ferrande, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

There is a slightly sweet edge to the pineapple and citrus fruit, and a lovely juiciness on the finish. It's fairly rich and intense, with...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château FerrandeGraves
Château Grand Village, Blanc, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is extremely enjoyable, it’s focused on the light touch and you only realise how creamy this in on the mid palate. Fragrant white flowers...
2017
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Château Grand VillageBordeaux
Domaine de la Solitude, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A clear success, although unusually for the vintage I almost prefer the red. The acidity here is pretty high, with a lively smack of enjoyable...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Domaine de la SolitudePessac-Léognan
Château Loudenne, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is a thoroughly enjoyable Médoc white, with a juicy palate of fleshy nectarine and mineral touches.
2017
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Château LoudenneBordeaux Blanc
Château Reynon, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2017

An appealing richness alongside the minerality, the brightness to the overall structure is clear, as is the fleshy white peach character. Excellent quality, depth and...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château ReynonBordeaux Blanc
Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Intense and focussed, with bright, fresh acidity balanced by textured, juicy white peach flavours that bring the whole palate into focus, finishing on a delicious...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château de RochemorinPessac-Léognan
Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A touch of reduction on the first nose clears to reveal a tight and austere wine that gathers steam through the palate and finishes with...
2017
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Château Latour-MartillacPessac-Léognan
Château Rahoul, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Clear, bright citrus and apricot aromatics lead into a lovely, intense palate which curls upwards towards the end, gathering a juicy, candyfloss-edged finish without too...
2017
BordeauxFrance
Château RahoulGraves
Château Jean Faux, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Displaying ripe apricot fruit and good intensity. This has great persistency, with good mouthfeel and white flower edging. As a rule the dry whites are...
2017
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Château Jean FauxBordeaux
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
