What wines to pair with Malaysian food

plate of nasi lemak — Nami lemak pairs adroitly with wines made from Nebbiolo

(Image credit: Jordan Lye/Getty Images)

Modest beginnings

Cheong Liew is central to Australia’s fusion food scene

Malaysian food is essentially family food, with the nation’s beloved dishes derived from home-cooked recipes.

However, while most Malaysians instinctively reach for whiskey on ice or brandy at the dining table, wine is surprisingly sympathetic to Malaysian dishes – especially exotic styles, from sparkling red wine to Nebbiolo rosé.

In Australia, Malaysian flavours were a primary inspiration for the innovative fusion food scene born in the 1980s.

Chef Cheong Liew was instrumental in forging this cultural embrace at his seminal Adelaide restaurants Neddy’s and The Grange, combining ideas and techniques from his Chinese-Malay heritage with myriad other influences – which was seen as a unique crosscultural mix, to Liew’s surprise.

‘Malaysian food is fusion food already, because it’s such a melting pot of different cultures – Malay, Chinese, Indian, Nyonya,’ he says. ‘It’s all present in the favourite Malaysian dishes, and that’s why the flavours are so gutsy.’

Big flavours

Former MasterChef Australia contestant Emily Yeoh, who won a legion of fans for presenting Sarawak laksa in one of the rounds on the TV program, has found that many sommeliers incorrectly presume that her Malaysian dishes are difficult to pair with wine.

‘It’s not so complicated, and surprisingly versatile in which different wines work well with the big flavour combinations,’ she says.

At Emily Yeoh restaurant in Brisbane, she likes to match the peppery Sarawak laksa with Gewurztraminer or German Riesling (which blend a note of sweetness with a firm spine of acid), while luscious Malaysian curry laksa is better suited to a dry Grenache rosé.

She also suggests a few surprising matches, such as full-bodied and fruit-forward Chardonnay with chilli crab, and rich, complex Champagne (she likes Louis Roederer) with the thick and creamy Nyonya chicken curry.

Star pairings to match with classic Malaysian dishes

Nasi lemak, with Nebbiolo

This great variety plate of Malaysia – combining rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf, with cucumber, fried anchovies and a sambal that’s rich in shrimp paste to amplify a keen savoury note – responds with enthusiasm to a wine boasting a firm tannin profile. Lively Nebbiolo with bright red berry notes makes a smart match.

Beef rendang, with aged Australian Riesling

The clean acid line and bright citrus of Riesling cuts through the intense heat of slow-cooked dry beef curry piqued with hot red chillies and coconut milk. Wines aged beyond five years add a delicious honey note as a tertiary character.

Chicken satay, with Semillon

A great satay marinade has a pinch of sugar to offset the spicy paste and stop the meat drying out when cooked over coals. With peanuts added to the rich dipping sauce, a paired wine must be rounded and complex, but still have firm acidity. Semillon’s fleshy citrus tones and zesty bite fit the bill perfectly.

Hokkien noodles, with Pinot Noir

With more robust flavour than the original southern China version, Malaysian Hokkien noodles are characterised by dry chilli paste and dark soy. Pinot Noir is an ideal foil to such big flavours, its lithe acidity ensuring the wine’s fruit sits in easy balance with the savoury noodles.

Roti canai and dahl, with Grenache

Roti, the flatbread accompaniment to so many Malaysian meals, is best enjoyed as a simple snack with dahl, paired with young Grenache. The wine’s vibrant raspberry flavour and crisp acidity complement but don’t compete with the lentil curry and light, flaky roti.

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After 30 years in journalism, Australian freelance writer, author and editor David Sly has been fortunate enough to indulge his passions in print. Based in Adelaide, South Australia, David has moved from newspapers to specialise in food and wine writing, being published in national and international magazines, from Gourmet Traveller to Decanter, and is Food & Wine Editor of SA Life magazine. He has focused intently on the specialised regional produce and wines of South Australia, winning national awards, and is a graduate of the University of Adelaide/ Le Cordon Bleu Gastronomy course.