Meet the sommelier: Jeffrey Koren of The Chancery Rosewood, London

A sommelier by trade, with a degree in economics, Jeffrey Koren is director of wine at The Chancery Rosewood, London. His hospitality career began during university in Edinburgh, and he eventually left the corporate world to pursue it full time. He trained in Spain, and worked in top-tier restaurants across the UK and Scandinavia, including as sommelier at Michelin three-star Maaemo in Oslo. He later moved into wine buying at UK merchant Lay & Wheeler, before returning to hospitality as head of wine at Brasserie Marceline in London’s Canary Wharf.

My first memorable wine experience

Funnily enough, I can’t recall the wine I drank! As a student, I moved into a new house and bought the most expensive bottle of red wine my budget would allow and shared it with my new housemates. In many ways, it’s what we try to do with the wine programme at The Chancery Rosewood – not just sell a bottle of wine, but give people a truly unforgettable experience.

My go-to everyday wines

I don’t often drink when I’m at home, but my go-to wines tend to be crisp, fresh and mineral. Albariño is a firm favourite, and there’s almost always a bottle from winemakers Xurxo Alba (of Bodegas Albamar) or Anselmo Mendes in my fridge.

My favourite supermarket buy

I’m always impressed by the value that can be found in white Bordeaux, such as [the dry white from Sauternes] G de Guiraud.

My most embarrassing moment at work

Luckily, I’ve managed to avoid any major embarrassing moments, though I think most wine professionals have managed to break a glass or two in their time.

Pet hate

When it comes to wine pairings or wines by the glass, I prefer to let people come to their own conclusions about the wine rather than provide tasting notes. It’s important to spend time speaking about the people and places behind each bottle, as well as its justification for being included on the list or paired with a particular dish. Tasting notes can be quickly forgotten, but a good story is incredibly memorable.

My death row food and wine pairing

Champagne and fried chicken, or Champagne and oysters, or Champagne and BBQ flavour Hula Hoops, or Champagne and, well, you get the idea…

Best food and wine match at The Chancery Rosewood

There are so many different outlets here that it’s hard to pick a favourite. Alsatian winemaker Christophe Mittnacht’s Cuvée Gyotaku, which is featured in Tobi Masa, has been specially made with Japanese food in mind. His wife Yuka is a talented Japanese chef, and it’s a very gastronomic wine that pairs beautifully with the omakase.

In Serra, the Estate Xinomavro from Ktima Foundi has been a favourite with so many of the Mediterraneaninspired dishes.

In Jacqueline, our executive pastry chef Marius Dufay uses biodynamic produce to create one of the most innovative afternoon teas in London. Domaine Vacheron is one of Sancerre’s truly elite producers and farms biodynamically. The wine matches both the flavours and the space’s philosophy.

My fallback quick after-work fix

Champagne is for all occasions – especially after a long day at work!

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

Given The Chancery Rosewood’s history as the old US embassy, I’m thrilled to have a close relationship with so many iconic American producers. I’m especially proud of our selection of Pinot Noir from Oregon, which includes producers such as Flâneur Wines and Lingua Franca. My personal favourite is the Willamette Valley producer Maggie Harrison of Antica Terra, which makes one of the most hotly sought-after allocations of Oregon Pinot Noir.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Our house Champagne isn’t what people would expect from a property of our size. We are privileged to partner with Pol Roger, and even the entry-level Brut Réserve has been hand-riddled (in the traditional way) and aged for four years in the house’s cellars. The result is a Champagne that stands out as one of the most exciting wines in its category.

Wines I’d avoid ordering from a restaurant list

I’d steer clear of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that wasn’t bottled in New Zealand. I’d also avoid anything ordered in bulk and bottled in market. Organisations such as Appellation Marlborough Wine support local growers, protect the reputation of the region and are a marker for quality.

Wine style I’m most excited about at the moment

Globally, there are so many examples of old-vine Grenache being made well. From places such as Spain, southern France, Australia or South Africa – there are loads of producers making exciting wines.

Wine style/grape that I really don’t enjoy drinking

I’ve never been enamoured with Viognier. There are a few examples I’ve tried that have come close to changing my mind, but I’m yet to be completely convinced.

Wine region/style that offers the greatest value for money right now

Value for money is usually relative. In the context of Burgundy, many exciting wines from the Mâconnais or Hautes-Côtes de Nuits show incredibly well against more highly priced peers. South African wines from top producers remain competitively priced, as do many from Central Europe.

My favourite wine region to visit, and favourite destination while I’m there

I adore Piedmont, and Ristorante Le Torri in the medieval village of Castiglione Falletto in the heart of Barolo is remarkable. There’s nothing quite like Piedmontese hospitality, and the region’s warmth and charm are something that everyone should experience at least once.

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