Antinori’s Guado al Tasso and Matarocchio

<p>Guado al Tasso sits in the Bolgheri amphitheatre that provides a unique microclimate with significant temperature variations, these were crucial in the warm 2015 vintage. Due to a mild winter and a dry spring the bud break, along with the flowering, and the harvest were earlier than the preceding vintages. The picking began on September 12th with the Merlot. Crimson, dominated by a salted chocolate aroma and flavour with restrained cassis, a touch of mint and coffee beans to finish; this vintage shows firm yet ripe tannins, not without suppleness despite the powerful structure. It will age easily for decades.</p>

The 2011 vintage was characterised by a spring and late summer which were warm and registered temperatures above normal. The heat of late August caused some irregularity in ripening, mostly in the case of the early ripening Merlot. This caused some loss of production. Renzo Cotarella says the tannin is 'less evolved'. Guado al Tasso 2011, indeed, is the dark side of Bolgheri; blackish in the glass, with black fruits, dark chocolate and cigar box aromas, full on the palate with a youth vintage-Port-like tannin yet a great depth and personality.

This year saw Cabernet Franc used in the blend for the first time. Compared to 1998 tasted before, the 2007 is much more balsamic and leafy in character, with intensity and energy. Spicy in the mouth, it's a refined sip with super-fine, sandy tannins and vertical shape.

We went a bit over in the 2001 vintage, we still were in the muscular phase', says Renzo Cotarella. The 2001 is concentrated enough to be considered a powerful wine, and has 10% of Syrah in the blend (instead of Cabernet Franc) and just 14 months in oak, which gives the wine a particular grace and finesse. It’s a Guado al Tasso 'hermitagée' with spicy characters of coffee powder and curry, a complexity of dried prunes and cigar box and a creamy full-bodied palate with slightly dusty tannins. Good balance overall.

Both the bud burst and flowering were early as compared with the preceding year. The summer season initially saw an important rise in temperature, which was then rebalanced during the second half of the month of August. The harvest took place during the final ten days of September, relatively early. A warm powerful vintage without the dryness of 2012 and with great potential. Matarocchio is crimson and super-restrained with straw, clove and oaky aromas on the nose, well balanced with fresh leather, fine herbal aromas, bramble fruit and savoury character in depth. It shows an austere palate; full, firm and chalky yet ripe, however it flows with the grace of the best Cabernet Franc.

Despite the relatively young age of the vines, planted in 2000, the cool vintage in the mild Mediterranean climate of Bolgheri produced extraordinary ripeness and balance. This Matarocchio is full of grace and elegance, with dried eucalyptus leaf, milk chocolate praline and restrained cassis core; full, fat and sweet on the palate with extremely precise tannins and brillant acid. It lacks the power of 2015, yet shows superb elegance, so I would drink this now, waiting for the 2015.

<p>2011 was a bit of a crazy season; September saw milder weather together with sporadic precipitation, which allowed the Cabernet Franc to complete the final ripening phase in a uniform fashion. This is confirmed by an incredible intensity of colour and extraction (30 days with fermentation and maceration) after five days of cold soak, before malolactic fermentation in 100% new French barrique. A restrained, sweet tobacco aroma dominates the nose, supported by dark cassis fruits and black pepper with cherry in depth. The wine is powerful, creamy on the palate with a thick, slightly angular finish underlined by moderate acidity. It shows great lenghth with cacao powder and fruit notes.</p>

The 2009 vintage was fairly warm all the season, with a couple of days of rain in mid-September, when temperatures fell below seasonal averages. The wine is complex with layers of evolved notes from Marmite to dried plums, milk chocolate and cigar box, due possibly to the not completely perfect bottle. It’s amazing for lovers of a more decadent style with a creamy, velvety palate, full body and moderate acidity.

‘Cabernet Franc is a variety which is difficult to be complete,’ says Renzo Cotarella. ‘The pH tends to be higher – a softer entrance but also with backbone.’ Matarocchio is only made in vintages where the variety excels, and 2007 was the start of the project. Deep and slightly smoky, it combines dark berry and balsamic herb fragrance with a touch of black tea. In the mouth it offers glossy black fruits with flecks of chocolate, black tea, sottobosco and plenty of spice. The finish is long and fresh. Poured from magnum.