Cantina Terlano Pinot Blanc: Top wines reviewed
Aldo Fiordelli looks at the history of Cantina Terlano and tastes some of the top Alto Adige Pinot Blanc wines...
Back in mid-1980s while restoring its winery in Alto Adige, Cantina Terlan made a chance discovery of some 18,000-20,000 bottles of wine hidden behind a wall.
Former winemaker Sebastian Stocker had hidden the bottles between 1955 and 1993, convinced that the wines were not receiving the consideration they deserved. Stocker, a farmer remembered for his open mindedness and his expertise in the vineyards of Alto Adige, passed away in 2017.He understood the extraordinary quality of the Vorberg hill and its ability to increase the reputation of Terlan’s wines based on their potential to age. Today the estate boasts reserves of 120,000 bottles from more than 70 different vintages. This is a defining feature for Terlan among Italian wineries and sits alongside its reputation for producing wines of incredible depth and consistency and one of the best Pinot Blancs in the world.
With experience in the cool continental climate of Alto Adige, the ability to receive grapes from several plots, and an undying passion for Champagne, Stocker had a strong desire to produce sparkling wines. The board members never agreed to his project, yet since 1967 the winemaker began to hide away stainless steel tanks to store “reserve wines” on the fine lees with the thought that one day, when the board would change their mind, he would be set for layered and complex sparkling wines.
Not by chance but almost by mistake, Stocker’s aged Pinot Blanc – tasted years later – came out extremely gracefully due to the golden balance between the weight of long ageing on the fine lees and the vibrancy of the steep volcanic hill of Vorberg. Since then, this prolonged winemaking became the ‘Stocker method’, defining the style of Terlano and their signature Rarity wines bottled only after eight years. With this a sophisticated Italian icon wine was born.
The Terlan estates rise around the village of Terlan, mostly around Vorberg, but also around the Kreuth and Winkl hills. The former is a group of steep vineyards with up to 50% gradient at 600 metres above sea level with a south east exposition. Worked only by hand grapes from here fetch seven euros per kilo, as in Champagne.
The soil is a red quartz porphyry with volcanic origin and sandy surface. Vines are up to 60 years old with the oldest trained in Pergola style and the younger vines trained with Guyot. The climate is cool and continental, frequently exposed to extreme weather. The growing season can be very hot and dry, while hailstorms from the north are a threat deterred by netting over the north side of the rows.
One of the main factors in producing such a layered Pinot Blanc is the altitude of Vorberg, where there are extremely high night and day temperature variations. Indeed, this grape suffers warm climate conditions more than Chardonnay considering its acidity.
‘We are used to warm vintages,’ says winemaker Rudi Kofler who is more worried about the autumnal anxiety of rain showers. That said, vintages such as 2008, a crazy season with exaggerated hailstorms, was surprisingly great, while some dry and warm years like 2012 or 2009 are hindered by a slight lack of tension. Overall Vorberg is extremely well suited to show its sophisticated character year after year with great potential.
The blends such as Nova Domus or Terlaner Gran Cuvée are always very consistent, while the Vorberg and Rarity pure Pinot Blanc wines are thrilling.
Aldo Fiordelli’s top Terlano Pinot Blancs
See also: Top Alto Adige wines to try
Cantina Terlano, Rarity, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2006
Bottled in 2018 after 12 months of oak and eight years on the fine lees in the stainless steel tank, this "rarity" is a fine example of Vorberg Pinot Bianco elegance. Still greenish in the glass, it smells like subtle lemon leaves and lemon curd with a white peach core and slightly leesy character. Leaner than others with refined silky palate weight balanced by tight bite of zesty acidity, it shows an amazing mineral length and enormous potential.
2006
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Terlaner I, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2016
Terlaner was the white wine of the winery at the beginning, then came Nova Domus followed by Terlaner I, the milestone wine. In a very good 2016 vintage it shows all of its beauty with candied lemon, iodine minerality and a mix of citrus, white peach and pineapple fruit. There's a hint of butter thanks to 70% of malolactic fermentation. Super savoury on the palate, with crisp and vibrant acidity over full weighted texture and warming alcohol, you can't decide if it is more powerful or elegant.
2016
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Nova Domus, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2016
In the 2016 vintage this blend has progressively reduced the amount of Sauvignon Blanc to the minimum of 6%, mostly to keep the wine fresh. Behind the toastiness of oak, peach and apricot chasing each other, yet the elegance comes out with pink grapefruit and peach kernel flavours. Full, large and vibrant on the palate with a soft bite it flows driven by superfine acid. Not too young to be drunk now, yet with enormous potential.
2016
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Vorberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2006
The outstanding vintage 2006 confirms its reputation and gives to the Pinot Blanc from Vorberg a wonderful expression. Pink grapefruit and apricot juice chasing each other among buttery notes and the oxidative aroma of Coccoina paper glue. It fills the palate with its weight showing a firm and crisp acidity and a lengthy savoury finish. Less suitable for super precise and technical wine lovers, but full of layers to show great personality.
2006
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Vorberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2008
Warm then cool with hailstorms, the 2008 seems like a survivor vintage. The selection was hard, says winemaker Rudy Kofler. Due to the high acid the wine underwent 80% of malolactic fermentation, more than usual. Today the wine climbs the palate with the grace of fresh apricot and the tension of grapefruit, enhanced by buttery and grated lime peel notes. Silky and smooth on the palate it shows a great vertical minerality to the finish.
2008
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Nova Domus, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2006
<p>In 2006 the amount of Sauvignon Blanc within the blend was up to a quite assertive 14%. From this vintage the winemaker started to reduce it, which has proved to be a good decision. The wine is great, showing an amazing fruit aroma and flavour with pineapple and toasty notes, large and full body with silky mid palate weight and refreshing acidity. Outstanding quality which resembles a good example of a fruit-driven white Bordeaux blend rather than expressing its own personality.</p>
2006
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Vorberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2010
In the very well balanced 2010 vintage the Pinot Blanc from south-facing slopes of Vorberg in the Terlano DOC area achieved its full ripeness. Almost fruit forward on the nose with passion fruit and litchi aromas, it shows some flower notes that open up to citrus notes of grapefruit with stone fruit flavour. Extremely silky it's otherwise well balanced by chewy acidity. A riper style, without loosing complexity, yet a bit less tight.
2010
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Vorberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2017
<p>A preview of the warm 2017 vintage where the generous character of the harvest with the youthfulness of the wine create a heady impact. Slightly ester-y on the nose, extremely fresh with lime and lemon peel aromas, white rose and lavender with a toasty finish, the wine flows with vibrancy over the palate (almost electric) and is extremely salty at the end. The acid is very well-binded with fruit and the typical grace and weight of Terlano Pinot Blancs.</p>
2017
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Vorberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2009
The warm yet sound vintage of 2009 produced a complete Pinot Blanc from Vorberg, with an enhanced character tasting the wine from magnum. It shows some sweetness of honeydew melon at first than become focused on citrus notes of lemon pith. With time in the glass, it opens up to floral aromas of chamomile and mediterranean spiciness of lavender. Full bodied, vibrant and refreshing, it's a bit dry on the finish otherwise of an amazing elegant style.
2009
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Vorberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2014
One of the cooler vintages of the past decade, considered very difficult all over the Italy due to the rainfall during the growing season, this vintage has been interpreted consistently. Lime and floral on the nose, with a white peach core, savoury on the palate with good body and a zesty finish due to the brilliant acidity.
2014
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
Cantina Terlano, Nova Domus, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2012
2012 vintage was more dry than warm, the blend with 12% of Sauvignon Blanc between the Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay makes for a mineral wine. 'This distinct Terlano cuvée embodies all the strengths of the region in a full-bodied multifaceted mineral wine that takes years of ageing in the bottle to achieve its full potential' says winemaker Rudi Kofler. Ripe peach aromas melted with pink grapefruit, sage and glue - in a full bodied silky palate with moderate yet balancing acidity - offer a pleasant and lazy drink.
2012
Cantina TerlanoAlto Adige/Südtirol
