Graves & Pessac whites 2012: panel tasting results
Bordeaux’s red wines invariably steal the limelight from the whites, but the dry styles from these prestigious appellations offer exciting value drinking. Jane Anson reports
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Graves & Pessac whites 2012: Panel tasting
The crus classés and Pessac-Léognans fared best, with the Graves AC entries more inconsistent, but all the wines came under scrutiny by our panel for their oak use. Nevertheless, 16 wines were rated highly-recommended by our expert judges – see them all here…Dry white wine in Bordeaux – which tends to be clustered around entre-deux-Mers, Blaye-Cotes de Bordeaux and Pessac-léognan/Graves – is experiencing a sales boom, with a 31% climb in overseas markets over the past five years, now standing at 47% export overall, compared to just under 40% for Bordeaux as a whole. The prestigious regions of Graves and Pessac léognan have done much to contribute to this success.Bordeaux whites from the Right Bank and entre-deux- Mers are almost invariably early drinkers, whereas those from the left Bank (so Graves and particularly Pessacléognan; the only region where the best white wines have received a cruclassé ranking), should be capable of ageing and improving in complexity in bottle for five to 10 years, or longer. Because production is small, prices have risen for classified whites over the past few years, but they are rarely seen as investment wines in the way that white Burgundy is, with a few exceptions (la Mission haut-Brion Blanc and its sister haut-Brion Blanc, and perhaps a few other sure-value picks such as Domaine de Chevalier).
White Bordeaux is an exciting area where much research into varietal aromas and the importance of effective viticulture and vinification techniques has been done at the Institute of Oenology. The results have been widely disseminated through the vineyards, meaning that as a category Graves and Pessac-léognan should offer good value for money, and real drinking pleasure.
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Château Couhins-Lurton, Graves, Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Elegant nose of white flowers, ripe apricot and a hint of jasmine. Good ripeness on the palate, which has a spicy edge. Fine, piercing acidity supports and cuts the ripe fruit and gives excellent length.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château Couhins-LurtonGraves
Château Carbonnieux, Graves, Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Ripe lime and pear nose with discreet oak and hints of iris. Concentrated and balanced, with considerable complexity and admirable length.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château CarbonnieuxGraves
Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2012

It was an unusual blend in 2012, because a late harvest favoured the Sémillons. This has a richness to the texture and aromatics, with touches of straw and white pepper, even points of sumac and tumeric. You can feel the tertiary character coming through at seven years old, although there's clearly still plenty of life ahead. It's a good food matching wine as it has nuance and complexity, if a little atypical of their usual style. The last vintage under Athanase Fakorellis as consultant for the whites.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château Malartic-LagravièrePessac-Léognan
Château Bouscaut, Graves, Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Lovely ripe fruit flavours combine with toasty, fine-quality oak. Quite rich with great concentration and a long, lingering aftertaste, which emphasises the quality.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château BouscautGraves
Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Citrus-dominated with yellow fruits on the nose and palate. Displays good concentration and ample zest and flair. Ripe acidity gives a long finish that is both balanced and stylish.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château BrownPessac-Léognan
Château Couhins, Graves, Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012

<p>Ripe melon and citrus nose and a concentrated palate that has lift and freshness. Lovely acidity, vibrant lemon and lime zest fruit flavours. This has a good future.</p>
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château CouhinsGraves
Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

<p>Delicate apple and quince aromas and a complex palate of tropical fruit and zippy acidity. Very well expressed with lovely balance. The long finish and mineral edge leaves you wanting another glass.</p>
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château La LouvièrePessac-Léognan
Château Lamothe-Bouscaut, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Good weight and concentration on the palate is combined with zesty, lime fruit flavours and perfume. Stylish and imposing without being heavy handed.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château Lamothe-BouscautPessac-Léognan
Château Olivier, Graves, Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012

<p>Complex nose blending white and yellow fruits, spice and seamless oak. Lovely ripeness to the fruit that is balanced by zesty, lively acidity; a very fine example of white Bordeaux.</p>
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château OlivierGraves
Château Baret, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Vibrant, grassy characters on the palate combine with aromas of ripe tropical and quince fruits. Very good length with well-blended oak and good expression now and for the mid term.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château BaretPessac-Léognan
Château Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

White fruits with green flowers and a touch of honey make for an elegant nose. The palate is a leaner style – less weighty than some but with vibrancy and freshness.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château CantelysPessac-Léognan
Château de Fieuzal, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

<p>Elegant floral notes with a citric edge. Lean and intense, with a fine attack and considerable poise. The fruit is subdued but it has an appealing raciness and tension; a harmonious wine with style and persistence.</p>
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château de FieuzalPessac-Léognan
Château de France, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

The subtle nose promises a lot for the future. The palate is rich, firm and concentrated, with ripe citrus fruit and equally ripe acidity. You can identify the high-quality winemaking here.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château de FrancePessac-Léognan
Château La Garde, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Smoky, struck-match notes on the nose with a touch of iris. The palate is rich and dense with the weight of a premier cru white Burgundy and as much length.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château La GardePessac-Léognan
Château Le Sartre, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Greener notes on nose with nuances of lemon, pear and discreet oak. Good attack – fresh and concentrated – with ample ripe citrus fruit and tropical flavours. Stylish and long. This will go the distance.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château Le SartrePessac-Léognan
Château Pont de Brion, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Mature and savoury on the nose showing subtle fruit with waxy and green olive notes. Full-bodied and rich.
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château Pont de BrionGraves

Content written and compiled by the Decanter Team