While there was plenty of talk of the recent and devastating bush fires and their effect on the Australian wine industry at last month’s Wine Australia trade tasting, many other topics were up for discussion too.
Much of the chat centred around drought-resistant varieties and the growing trend – at the premium end at least – for Aussie red wines made in fresh, elegant styles. There was even a Focus Room dedicated to reds made with the foot firmly off the pedal – a tangle of juicy, bright wines that eschew oak and the full-bodied style which has defined Australian red wine in recent years.Both these themes were prevalent in the selection of red wines on show made from Iberian varieties, with many producers explaining that they first planted these grapes due to their drought-resistant properties and/or their ability to make more nuanced wines.
While the recent trend for Italian grape varieties planted in Australia shows no sign of waning (there were plenty of Sangioveses, Primitivios and Nebbiolos to get excited about) but there’s much to discover from Iberian varieties too; from punchy and edgy Tempranillo to supple and spicy Graciano. There was even a Pedro Ximenez dessert wine, but that didn’t quite sing like many of its Jerez counterparts.
A final note on the bush fires. When speaking to winemakers about what consumers can do to help support the industry and those affected by the fires, the message was simple and unanimous – buy Australian wine.
Chris Wilson’s top Aussie Iberian selections
Mazza, Cinque, Western Australia, Australia, 2010
Dave and Anne Mazza lived and worked in Spain for a number of years and set up Mazza near Donnybrook in Western Australia with a selection of Iberian varieties brought back to Australia. The Cinque uses five of these varieties; Graciano, Tempranillo, Tinta Cão, Touriga Nacional and Sousão. It’s a glorious muddle of Ribena, black pepper, strawberry and black olive. Supple but not over-extracted, there’s a real freshness and zing here.
2010
Mazza
Sons of Eden, Selene Tempranillo, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2013
Hailing from the Light Pass sub-region of the Barossa Valley, where the 21-year-old vines are thought to be the oldest Tempranillo in the region. The wine is bright and bold, with raspberry jam and game on the nose and a complex palate of blue fruit, white pepper and tea tree oil. Delicate tannins and a fleshy finish.
2013
Sons of EdenBarossa Valley
Oliver's Taranga Vineyards, Tempranillo, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2017
On the 100-hectare ‘Taranga’ property in McLaren Vale the sixth generation of the Oliver family grow Aussie classics such as Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon but also lesser-planted varieties including Mencia, Touriga Nacional and Tempranillo, which were introduced 25 years ago due to their drought resistance. The Tempranillo is smoky and rich with bacon fat, ripe cherry and plum characters. Soft, fine tannins give is a velvety mouthfeel and delicate finish.
2017
Oliver's Taranga VineyardsMcLaren Vale
Vinteloper, TN/17 Touriga Nacional, Langhorne Creek, South Australia, Australia, 2017
Adelaide Hills' winery Vinteloper was near enough destroyed by the December 2019 bush fires, losing 95% of its vineyard, but it is determined to rebuild and come back stronger. Buying older vintages of their wines will help, and this 2017 Touriga Nacional is a good place to start. ‘Wild’ fermented, unfiltered and unfined it sees 25% new oak and is bright and perfumed with ripe plum fruit, liquorice and spice.
2017
VinteloperLanghorne Creek
Fox Gordon, By George Tempranillo, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2017
A vibrant and light-footed wine from Adelaide Hill that’s almost Nebbiolo-like in its delicacy and depth. Pale in colour with dark cherry, dark chocolate and spice. Refined in style and taste, with hints of tobacco and vanilla-edged oak on the supple finish.
2017
Fox GordonAdelaide Hills