Meursault 2024: Top picks from a host of ageworthy wines

Lafon’s Perrières is often among the finest wines in the appellation; I frequently think of it as 'the grand cru of Meursault,' although it isn't. The balance between the substantial extract and lively tension sets off perfectly the rich aromatic palate, which ranges from lemon peel to Mirabelle plum and quince, with a firm, mineral underpinning. The texture is powerfully concentrated but not heavy, and the bright acidity ensures a long finish. The grapes are from 0.77ha spread across several parcels in both the upper and lower parts of the vineyard.

Concentrated and powerful, the Meursault Genevrières-Dessus (from the upper part of the vineyard) is an impressive wine, with aromas of ripe, spicy pears, lush flowers and spice. The texture is fleshy and dense but not lacking balancing acidity. The grapes are from a small parcel of 0.12ha that was bottled separately in the past. After a recent replanting, it was blended with the larger parcel in Genevrières-Dessous but may soon be on its own again.

According to Pierre Vincent, 'If I could do this every year, I would!' His 2024 Meursault Charmes is exceptional, with aromas that veer in the glass from lemon peel, mineral and smoke to something warmer, such as ripe apple, Williams pear and hazelnut. There is a lovely reduction that is perfectly calibrated to accent and not dominate the flavour, while fresh acidity on the palate balances the rich extract to perfection. The grapes are from 0.16ha of Charmes Dessous, on the border with Puligny.

Stylish without being exaggerated, and eminently worth drinking. The bright lemon and nectarine fruit is accented with notes of attractively smoky reduction, acacia flowers, marzipan and spice. The texture is rich with a phenolic density balanced by crisp acidity. The grapes are firmly crushed and macerated before being run into new Damy barrels with most of their lees. It's not sulphured before bottling and should reach full potential in three to five years, and drink for 15 years after that.

Leroux’s Charmes-Dessus vies with his Meursault Blagny and his Genevrières-Dessus as the best white premier cru in the cellar. It has all the aromas of ripe apple, butter and marzipan that you associate with a classic Meursault, but there is also a mineral depth that sets it apart. There is considerable concentration, but enough lively acidity to keep the wine from being heavy. The grapes are located just below the Clos des Perrières at the top of the climat – a super location making top-notch wine.

Prominent, lush aromas of Mirabelle plum and melon lead the initial attack, with accents of butter, spice and hazelnut. The texture is dense and warm, balanced by fresh acidity, resulting in a pleasantly lingering finish. The grapes are from a parcel near the border with Porusot that will remain with the recently restructured Bouchard vineyards, giving it an exemplary premier cru in this village. The grapes were fermented in mainly used barrels to moderate the oak influence.

A delight, with pronounced aromas of gooseberry and greengage plums, accented with hawthorn flowers and verbena. The texture is surprisingly creamy, rich and long, particularly for a 2024 Blagny. The grapes are from the Pernot family's holdings in Blagny, near the top of the slope, which were replanted to Chardonnay in 2002; after sorting, they were lightly pressed and fermented in mainly used barrels before ageing on the lees without racking.

This has always been a distinctive wine; in 2024, winemaker Brian Sieve got it exactly right, with prominent aromas of ripe apple, Mirabelle plum and acacia flowers. The texture is dense and rich, but ‘not overly opulent’, according to Sieve. The vineyard can tend towards a slightly heavy style, but this is not the case here; the grapes are coming only from the upper level of Porusots near the Clos de Bouchères, where the limestone bedrock is not as heavy. Let this open up for five or six years before opening.

Lafon’s half-hectare in Genevrières has produced a tiny crop in 2024 – on top of the brutal weather, one third had just been replanted. The small amount produced, however, is delicious, with forward, spicy quince and apricot fruit on the initial attack, then a buttery richness following behind. There is an almost phenolic edge on the palate, yet the acidity of the vintage brings welcome, youthful energy. This will open in three to five years and has excellent potential for ageing.

Lively and forward, offering aromas of pomelo and passion fruit on the nose, leading into a texture on the palate that is dense and substantial, yet does not lack freshness; the balance between the acidity and the substance carries the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from 0.4ha in the rich soils at the base of the slope; they are gently pressed and run into barrel with the majority of their lees for fermentation and ageing.

Porusots was the last vineyard to be picked in 2024. Patience has its rewards, as this has impressive depth and concentration. Ripe aromas of peach and pomelo, accented by notes of hazelnut, beeswax and a touch of honey, elevate this wine to a higher level. Despite the richness of the aroma the year has endowed this wine with, it has enough tension and snap to ensure it will age gracefully for years to come. The grapes are from nearly a hectare that Lafon has been farming since 2011. This wine, sometimes overlooked, is among the bright spots in Lafon's portfolio.

Deliriously delicious and one of the highlights of my autumn tasting here. Shows bright, forward fruit aromas of lemon peel and nectarine, with notes of soft white flowers, butter and a strong mineral underpinning. The dynamic tension on the palate is perfectly balanced by substantial extract, drawing the wine to a superbly long finish. The grapes are purchased from two parcels in Perrières Dessus, gently pressed, fermented and aged in barrel. The result should open in five years and will easily age for up to 30 years beyond that.

The Meursault Perrières from PYCM has more saline minerality than his other offerings from this village. It displays a judicious amount of smoky reduction – one of his trademarks – and is not lacking in the typical Meursault density. It is everything one might expect, but it somehow lacks the excitement of some of the top offerings in this cellar. It is made from purchased fruit, but he and his team do the work in the vineyards and harvest the grapes themselves.