Txakoli: The Spanish wine style you need to try in 2018
There’s far more to Txakoli - think 'cha-koh-lee' - than spritzy whites, says Sarah Jane Evans MW, who chooses her favourite bottles that showcase the versatility of this on-trend Spanish style.
Txakoli has an image problem.
It’s one of those wines where traditional reputation has not caught up with reality. For far too long it has been regarded as a rustic white, with punchy acidity and a spritz, that’s poured from a height into a tumbler. It’s much more than that.
It’s a style
First of all, it’s a wine style; there’s no grape called ‘Txakoli’.
Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Beltza are the main varieties, but there are others, depending on the DO, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Hondarribi Zuri Zerratia (Petit Courbu) and Mune Mahatsa (Folle Blanche), as well as Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng.
Not just white wine
Nor is it just white wine. There are a few reds (Doniene Gorrondona makes one from pre-phylloxera vines), traditional-method sparklings, and a very small number of sweet wines, the best of which are terrific.
There’s also a well-made orange wine, Itsasmendi’s Bat Berri. It’s made in three DOs. Txakoli de Getaria, clustered around San Sebastián, is the largest, and home to the style of spritzy freshness that has defined Txakoli.
Txakoli de Bizkaia lies to the west, centred on Bilbao and its hinterland, while Txakoli de Alava is the smallest. What’s interesting is that in this tasting Alava produced the highest-scoring wines; yet when the DO was created in 1989 Alava was dying; just 5ha of vines were left.
Lots to explore
Whatever the style or DO, Txakolis are all Atlantic wines – some more than others. Many vines have their toes practically in the ocean!
This is not an easy place to grow grapes. As a result the wines are fresh, some of them tartly so, and most of them have low or moderate alcohol. In that respect they are in tune with a current trend for lighter, fresher wines.
Only three of the wines I tasted had that textbook spritz – you can find it if you want it, but there’s plenty more to explore.
Some producers are making the traditional styles, others are working with lees; a few are maturing wines in oak or concrete eggs, and many focus on parcel selection in their vineyards.
Some are also bringing in consultant winemakers. Occasionally these are investors – new entrants to Txakoli. Export is an interesting issue.
For a long time, few Txakolis were exported and, in general, many international markets still see the entry-level of a brand rather than the more interesting special selections. However, with such diversity, there’s so much more reason to look beyond the ‘regulars’.
Txakoli wines to seek out
Astobiza, Malkoa, Txakolí, de Alava, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
93
A parcel selection from estate vineyards by consultant winemakers Ana Martín and Pepe Hidalgo. Two years in concrete eggs on its lees then some months in bottle. Gentle, leesy, wild herb and citrus notes, freshness and restrained elegance. Lovely!
2015
AstobizaTxakolí
Goianea, Uno, Txakolí, de Alava, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
92
The result of a joint project between 'a priest, a restaurateur and a stockman', who manages 10ha of vineyards. Firm, structured and linear, lees-aged for five months. Pure, with punchy citrus acidity. Very long but needs time to knit. Impressive stuff!
2015
GoianeaTxakolí
Itsasmendi, 7, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2014
92
From one of Bizkaia’s leading wineries, this cuvée has been made since 2003 and uses fruit from seven vineyards. Shows Txakoli’s ageability and capacity for richer, rounder wines. Opens beautifully; freshness wrapped in plump peach flesh.
2014
ItsasmendiTxakolí
Doniene Gorrondona, Doniene Barrel Fermented, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
91
Can oak be sensible in a pure, crunchy Txakoli? When it’s as good as this, yes! Fermented in new French oak barrels with four months on lees. Deftly done, with the wood’s richness and texture adding complexity to the apricot and lemon zest fruit.
2015
Doniene GorrondonaTxakolí
Doniene Gorrondona, Gorrondona, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
91
A young team runs this bodega with its hillside vineyards in Bakio, home of Bizkaia’s Txakolis. This is its ‘regular’ Txakoli: Hondarribi Zuri, with 4% of Mune Mahatsa and 5% ‘others’. Vibrant and crisp with fresh herbs and a saline edge. Long finish.
2016
Doniene GorrondonaTxakolí
Gorka Izagirre, 42 by Eneko Atxa, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
91
Try this at Michelin three-star Azurmendi, near Bilbao airport. Chef Eneko Atxa is part of the family and the winery is below his restaurant. Hondarribi Zuri Zerratia grapes have 10 months in barrel on lees: subtle smoke with crisp fruit and sweet spice.
2015
Gorka IzagirreTxakolí
Doniene Gorrondona, Doniene, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
90
100% Hondarribi Zuri. Parcels fermented separately with native yeasts, then aged on lees in stainless steel. Simple, but the vineyard selection sets it apart. Subtle, citrussy, mineral, complex and long.
2016
Doniene GorrondonaTxakolí
Gorka Izagirre, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
90
This Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zuri Zerratia blend has peachy aromatics and vibrant acidity. The finish is fresh, with a grapefruit edge and a saline finish. A modern, international style.
2016
Gorka IzagirreTxakolí
K5, Argiñano, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
90
A project of Spanish TV chef Karlos Argiñano, and a wine with real gastronomic character. This is far more complex than most Hondarribi Zuris. Mineral, with herbal aromas and a long, savoury, saline finish.
2015
K5Txakolí
Adur, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
89
100% Hondarribi Zuri spends six months on its lees in stainless steel. The acidity builds slowly but firmly on the fine, creamy, tropical fruit palate. It finishes with a lick of sea salt. Young, energetic, likeable.
2016
AdurTxakolí
Gorka Izagirre, G22, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2014
89
A special selection from the best plots. 100% Hondarribi Zuri Zerratia and unoaked, so you can taste the purity of the fruit. A ringingly vibrant wine, with balanced freshness that rolls onto a complex and mineral finish.
2014
Gorka IzagirreTxakolí
Hiruzta, Berezia, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
89
This lees-aged blend of Hondarribi Zuri with some Gros Manseng has floral and green apple aromas and a smooth palate of apple and fennel, plus a saline finish. A lively, modern, approachable style.
2016
HiruztaTxakolí
Zudugarai, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
89
A classic, traditional style of Txakoli from Geratia, with its low alcohol and crunchy apple fruit in a slim, green bottle. Fresh herbal aromas are followed by a full-flavoured palate. Despite its low alcohol, it’s brimming with ripe fruits.
2016
ZudugaraiTxakolí
Ameztoi, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
88
The label describes this as ‘crystalline white and as fresh as the Cantabrian Sea’. A touch romantic, but captures the spirit of this classic Getaria style. Light and lean with brisk spritz and citrus acidity. Under screwcap, so ideal for drinking alfresco.
2016
AmeztoiTxakolí
Gaintza, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
88
Gaintza’s Txakoli is a blend of Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Beltza with some Gros Manseng. It’s a full-bodied style, with a ripe palate and a lively prickle of freshness to lift the richness. Textured finish with mineral notes.
2016
GaintzaTxakolí
Maetierra, Txakolí, de Alava, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
87
This lively, young wine comes from the equally lively and young(ish) VIntae team, which has projects across Rioja and Navarra. Creamy but refreshing, polished palate of bruised apples. Long, soft finish.
2016
MaetierraTxakolí
Txomin Etxaniz, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
87
Classic Getaria: all green apple fruit and brisk citrus bite, with a softening edge of ripeness. Long and light – a refreshing white with a chalky, stony finish.
2016
Txomin EtxanizTxakolí
Itsasmendi, Urezti, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2011
92
Txakoli can produce exceptional sweet wines – even DWWA trophy-winners! This was the loveliest of the tasting: marmalade aromas and a juicy, sweetly spiced palate of preserved ginger in syrup.
2011
ItsasmendiTxakolí
