Rise of the Dirty Martini: Why it's popular and how to make one

Dirty Martini: Surfing the savoury wave

Just like a classic car or fine watch, a fabulous Martini has always been in style. But in bars worldwide, the drink’s popularity has recently skyrocketed – and for many Martini-sippers out there, the dirtier, the better.

‘There’s definitely been a shift towards savoury, umami-led drinks,’ says Andy Loudon, director of bars at Rosewood London, ‘and the Dirty Martini delivers that in a way that feels both concise and familiar. It hits the savoury note without needing explanation, which makes it approachable while still feeling classical.’

Umami-rich and pickled flavours – from Korean kimchi to American dill pickle – have entered the food zeitgeist.

Coupled with a revival of simple-butpunchy classic drinks such as the Manhattan and Negroni, they’ve arguably fuelled the trend for this savoury cocktail.

Cult drinking holes across the globe, such as Long Island Bar in Brooklyn, New York, have created their own ultra-savoury, creative versions to keep up with consumer demand for dirty.

The dirty debate: choosing your spirit

Like a standard Martini, a Dirty Martini contains gin or vodka and vermouth, but with the added salinity of olive brine; or, in some interpretations, muddled olives.

‘I prefer to get the “dirty” character directly from the olive itself,’ says Luca Harchay of London’s Quo Vadis. ‘[This] gives a more natural, oily and controlled salinity, rather than the sharpness of brine. After stirring [with ice and vermouth], I fine-strain so the cocktail stays clean but layered.’

The debate around a Dirty Martini’s ‘correct’ spirits, ratio and mixing method are as old as the cocktail itself, though most bartenders I spoke to preferred a classic London Dry gin for the base (Tanqueray was name-checked).

The reason? Its strong juniper backbone can stand up to the salinity and flavour of olive, where more delicate gins may become overwhelmed.

Alternatively, if you really want olive to be the star flavour – or if you’re experimenting with more nuanced olive brines, from bright and tangy Gordal olives, for example – you might find a smooth, earthy potato vodka to be the ideal partner.

This will provide a clean-tasting but weighty canvas to let the brine shine.

Getting creative with your garnish

Your garnish should, of course, be an olive, but there’s also a trend for creativity on this front.

For example, Rita’s in London’s Soho serves its version with a blue cheese-stuffed olive, anchovy and jalapeño Gilda – a signature Basque Country pintxo skewer; undeniably dirty, undeniably delicious.

How to make a Dirty Martini

Ingredients

• Glass: Martini
• Garnish: Skewered olive
• 75ml gin or vodka
• 15ml dry vermouth
• 10ml olive brine (or to taste)

Method

• Put all of the liquid ingredients in a stirrer with ice.
• Stir continuously until extremely cold.
• Strain into a chilled glass and garnish. Drink immediately.

One to try

Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin, Australia

£36.95-£39.50/70cl Drink Finder, Hic, The Great Wine Co, The Tipple Cellar

Made with olive oil and olive leaf tea from Cobram Estate in Victoria, this modern Mediterranean-style gin has a profile made for Dirty Martinis. Savoury, herbal and buttery. Alcohol 43.8%.

See also: Best gins for a Dirty Martini: eight to try

Related articles