Top wines to try from Alto Adige

Exciting wines to seek out from this pocket of northern Italy, plus producers to watch...

Alto Adige is one of the smallest winegrowing regions in Italy, yet one of the most commercially appealing.

Between an Alpine and Mediterranean climate, Alto Adige’s winemaking area comprises just 5,400ha of vineyards. This has risen by approximately 400 to 500ha over the past 10 years, and has the potential to increase further. Vineyards range from 200 to 1,000 metres above sea level and the region boasts more than 300 days of sun per year.

Scroll down to see Aldo’s best wines from Alto Adige

Cool and warm influences

The Alps protect the region from the cold northerly winds and have been credited with playing a major role in helping vines to thrive, according to Barbara Raifer of the Laimburg Research Center.

That said, Alto Adige is also influenced by warmer temperatures flowing up through Lake Garda, especially in July and August when Bolzano often soars to temperatures as high as those in Florence, which are some of Italy’s hottest.

Some believe that this leaves Alto Adige exposed to the consequences of climate change. Grapes in the area are generally being harvested two to three weeks earlier (up until late August) than just 20 years ago, for example. Several producers have sought higher ground for their vineyards and this trend is perhaps most visible with Pinot Noir.

Approximately 30 years ago, this noble grape could be planted directly above Egna in the Bassa Atesina. But today that area is primarily planted to ancient red wine grape Lagrein, believed to be a native of South Tyrol.

Winemaking

Partly as a reaction to challenges posed by climate change, blending has become more popular, having been pioneered by the Counts Goëss-Enzenberg of Manincor.

One outstanding example is Appius, a DOC Alto Adige wine and the top selection of Hans Terzer at Sanct Valentin; its fourth vintage, the 2013, consisting of 55% Chardonnay and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, plus Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio.

New French oak is often favoured for premium wines in the area, while winemakers have put more energy into examining their top vineyard sites in recent years.

Best sites

Mazon is the most renowned ‘grand cru’-level site for Pinot Noir wines, with top examples including Trattmann from Girlan. It lies on the left bank of the Adige river in the southernmost Bassa Atesina sub-region, between 300-400 metres above sea level. Clay and dolomite limestone soils dominate.

The Isarco Valley, at between 400 and 800 metres, is home to white wines of a remarkable purity, such as those of Kofererhof, with vines planted on weathered, rocky soils composed of quartz and mica .

Producers to watch

In the challenge for complexity, Alois Lageder is the undeniable leader of organic and biodynamic viticulture. Meanwhile, Cantina Terlano is changing minds about whites, producing extraordinary age-worthy wines.

Several young producers, such as Martin Gojer of Campill, are adding complexity to Schiava, the most widely-planted grape and which usually produces a deliciously dry, fruity wine with a tremendously easy drinking style. It is vinified without destemming and has the potential to become a sort of ‘Italian Jura’.

From the archive: Alto Adige wine – Back to the future

Aldo’s best wines from Alto Adige:

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