Expert’s Choice: Premium Cava
Low prices may have made basic Cava popular, but don’t forget the high-end wines that offer all the quality and style of Champagne, says Sarah Jane Evans MW...
Consider a bottle of sparkling wine: it’s made according to the traditional method, a vintage wine carefully matured in underground cellars on its lees, finally bottled with zero dosage. Clearly, it’s Champagne. Actually, no, not at all. This is Cava, Spain’s much-maligned traditional method sparkling.
There are some fascinating wines being produced in and around DO Cava. But Cava’s problem is Cava. That’s to say, it’s the wine’s reputation as a bargain-basement fizz. While low prices gave Cava popular appeal, the same low prices prevented some of the producers recommended here from exporting their pricier fine wines. But the recent success of Italy’s Prosecco as a budget sparkling has encouraged Spanish producers to focus on the high ground.
What has changed? First, the economic crisis in Spain, meaning that producers have to export. We can now buy wines that were only sold on the domestic market. Second, recent years of careful viticultural work are showing through. Notable are the wines of producers such as Recaredo and Loxarel – established biodynamic growers, who are joined by others such as Gramona.
Third, exciting results are being realised from long-term work with local grape varieties. Cava’s classic varieties are Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. None of them performs well at high yields, so it’s no wonder that producers moved to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But that was then. Now try some of the new Xarel-los (also known as Pansa Blanca) – it’s a remarkable transformation.
The 18 wines above are all reservas (minimum 15 months ageing in bottle) and gran reservas (30 months). In terms of style, most of the premium Cavas here are zero dosage. It’s a style Spain particularly likes, accounting for a quarter of all Cavas consumed in Spain but only 2% of exports (in 2013).
These were the best of a selection of Cavas retailing at £15 and over, tasted non-blind at Decanter in February 2015.
Sarah Jane Evans MW’s top 18 premium Cavas
Codorníu, Gran Codorniu Gran Reserva Xarel-lo, Cava, Catalonia, Spain, 2009
95
In a wooden presentation case with the other two Gran Cordornius (right and opposite page). Brisk, vivid and penetrating – a gloriously tooth-tingling Cava. A fascinating Xarel-lo, with limpid, lemon cream notes.
2009
CodorníuCava
Recaredo, Finca Serral de Vell Brut de Brut Gran Reserva, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2006
95
Lime leaf and crystallised lemon aromas. Full of delicate energy, with a mouthfilling blossom of very fine mousse. Finishes elegant and refined, with notes of herbs and lime. Still delightfully youthful.
2006
RecaredoCava
Codorníu, Gran Cordorníu Gran Reserva Chardonnay, Cava, Catalonia, Spain, 2009
93
Lovely aromatics of patisserie. Arrives with a burst of energy in the mouth, and the mousse persists to give a refreshing undertow. Powerful, limpid, lemon fruit. Zestily refreshing with no rough edges.
2009
CodorníuCava
Gramona, Imperial Gran Reserva Brut Nature Cava, Cava, Catalonia, Spain, 2008
93
Beautifully developed, delicately balanced and very long. This is a case where the mousse takes second place to the complexity of the wine. Very persistent. Ready now and most enjoyable.
2008
GramonaCava
Recaredo, Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Cava, Catalonia, Spain, 2008
93
Brightly aromatic with lip-smacking acidity. Cava as it should be. From a family of biodynamic growers, the first Demeter-certified producer in Cava and Penedès.
2008
RecaredoCava
Juvé y Camps, Reserva de La Familia Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Cava, Catalonia, Spain, 2010
One to linger over. It starts savoury then reveals notes of honey, toasted brioche, dried fig and crystallised ginger.
2010
Juvé y CampsCava
Loxarel, MM Blanc de N Brut, Penedès, Spain, 2009
91
Delightfully complex wine from a producer choosing to work outside the Cava DO. Focus on the red fruits and rhubarb, the bright acidity, the penetrating freshness and the round, fragrant finish.
2009
Loxarel
Raventós i Blanc, Gran Reserva de La Finca Brut Nature Conca del Riu Anoia, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2011
91
Everything about this speaks elegance and finesse. Delicate aromas of citrus and patisserie and a palate of green herbs and pomelo. From indigenous varieties.
2011
Raventós i BlancCava
Raventós i Blanc, DeNit Conca del Riu Anoia, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2012
91
Pale salmon hue from this rosé Cava. Delicate brioche aromas and wafts of floral perfume. The palate shows subtle red and orange fruits lifted by zesty acidity. Long.
2012
Raventós i BlancCava
Alta Alella, Privat Laietà Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2010
90
Luxuriantly aromatic. Palate is just as vivid, with lively acidity, a firm mousse, and a salty, spritzy finish. Full of youth despite its Gran Reserva ticket. Certified organic.
2010
Alta AlellaCava
Castillo Perelada, Gran Claustro Reserva Brut Nature, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2010
90
A little Xarel-lo, but aromas of roses and apples point to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Punchy and energetic.
2010
Castillo PereladaCava
Codorníu, Gran Codorníu Gran Reserva Pinot Noir, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2009
90
The third in Codorniu’s Gran Reserva singlevineyard project. Alluringly rich with roses and violets – Champagne does not have a monopoly on blancs de noirs!
2009
CodorníuCava
Juvé y Camps, Gran Juvé Gran Reserva, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2008
90
Delicately autolytic, with a vigorous bright palate. The complexity of maturity shines through: enjoy notes of roasted nuts, cinnamon and ginger. Very well balanced.
2008
Juvé y CampsCava
Torelló, Special Edition Brut Reserva, Cava, Penedès, Spain
90
Tense, powerful, pure and bright. The green herb and lime aromas carry through to the mineral palate. A lovely drink.
TorellóCava
Codorníu, Jaume Codorníu Gran Reserva Brut, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2009
88
Recommended Plenty of fine mousse. Lifted aromatics, bursting with cut flowers and honeyed lemons. Bright, zesty palate with bitter lemon marmalade notes. Long, lively finish.
2009
CodorníuCava
Gramona, Argent Reserva Brut, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2009
88
Generous maturity, with roasted nuts, sweet nutmeg and ginger and a soft mousse. Complex, long, saline finish.
2009
GramonaCava
Parés Baltà, Selectio, Cava, Penedès, Spain
88
A Cava that’s all about the wine rather than the fizz. The palate is complex, lifted by vivid pinch of citrus acidity, and enriched by a toasty, savoury finish. A complex, very interesting wine. Certified organic.
Parés BaltàCava
Oriol Rossell, Gran Reserva, Cava, Penedès, Spain, 2010
86
Very aromatic, shimmering with crystallised lemon peel, jasmine and buttery brioche. The palate is broad and balanced, if a little flat, but the finish is complex, with bursts of freshness lifting the fruit.
2010
Oriol RossellCava
