Abbotts & Delaunay, Les Fruits Sauvages Chardonnay, Languedoc Roussillon, France 2020

Laurent Delaunay has owned this winery based near Carcassonne since 2005. It specialises in wines from the Languedoc, such as this fresh and good-value Chardonnay, crafted from fruit from four different regions: the Cévennes,the Aude Valley, Limoux and the Hérault plain. One-third of the cuvée underwent a three-week fermentation in oak barrels followed by nine months' ageing in barrels on the lees with batonnage. The remaining portion was fermented in stainless steel. You might expect a Chardonnay with the word 'sauvages' in the name to have a bold, wild-ferment character, but this isn't the style here. It's more restrained and elegant than that, with some round buttery, toasty richness but also vibrant white flower and apple notes.