Domaine Begude, Le Paradis Viognier, Limoux, Languedoc, France 2022

Brits Catherine and James Kinglake moved from London to Limoux, in the Pyrenees, 20 years ago. When they first made this Viognier there was so little juice to ferment that they were forced to use small oak barrels instead of stainless steel. They loved the results so much that they've stuck with the same winemaking method, producing a wine that has plenty of juicy peach and apricot stone fruit, but fresh and leafy in nature rather than overripe. Viognier can sometimes be too 'in your face' – a one glass only wine (OGO as I write in tasting note shorthand) – but this one is textural without being heavy or unctuous, and isn't too phenolic. Well made, and a pleasure to drink. (Mix-six price: £14.99)