Pyramid Valley, Lion's Tooth Chardonnay, North Canterbury, New Zealand 2019

Named for the dandelions that dot the early-ripening, low-vigour, limestone-rich block, this is a knockout from winemaker Huw Kinch in his first full vintage in charge at Pyramid Valley. Overt aromas of sherbet grapefruit, lemon verbena, nutty lees tones and fennel flow through the sinewy, elegant palate that's beautifully textured and brisk. Sister Chardonnay Field of Fire (a richer, peachier wine) is equally excellent, as are the two single-block Pinot Noirs Angel Fire and Earth Smoke.