Smith & Sheth, CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, 2018

New Zealand may be better known for Sauvignon Blanc, but it produces some absolutely cracking Chardonnays, too, including this one – from the less fashionable North Island. From 20-year-old Clone 15 and 95 vines, for the geeks among you, and aged in new and aged French barriques, this is fabulously opulent and creamy; powerful enough to stand up to the bird. Could easily be taken for a Meursault.