Vinyes d’Olivardots, Vd'O 2.11, Empordà, 2011

The name looks like a date, but within this Capmany winery’s range 2.11 signifies a single vineyard of old vine Carignan, planted in 1909 and grown in sand soils (which Carignan relishes — you’ll find the same combination in Sardinia’s Carignano del Sulcis). This remains a dark and perfumed wine, with just a hint of menthol among the scents of leaf and underbrush. The palate is vivid, full and fine-textured. There are deep, bitter-sweet raspberry and dry leaf flavours, plus a saline edge. Another good example of the refinement, penetration and poise that Carignan is capable of in Empordà. Note that this is the current vintage on sale — the wine is given ample bottle age.