Top Verdicchio wines from Marche
The hillsides of Marche hold many secrets, among them the complexity and ageability of well-made Verdicchio. Tom Hyland finds himself intrigued as he explores the region.
The Verdicchio grape, grown on the hillsides of north-central and western Marche, is used to produce a variety of wines, from metodo classico to passito and, in between, some of the longest-lived dry whites found in Italy.
Italy expert Ian D’Agata, in his book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, asserts that ‘Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest native white grape variety.’ In its 2015 Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso awarded its highest rating of tre bicchieri to 11 examples of Verdicchio – more than any other white in the country. So why is it that you would be hard pressed to find more than one example on wine lists outside of Italy?
While most examples are 100% Verdicchio (DOC regulations require 85% minimum Verdicchio), the characteristics of these wines are quite varied, thanks to a series of factors including soil, climate and elevation.
The Castelli di Jesi zone is located in north-central Marche, while Matelica is in the western centre of the region, close to the Apennine Mountains that traverse this part of the region, near the border with Umbria.
‘The greatest difference between Matelica and Jesi,’ says Riccardo Baldi, proprietor of the La Staffa estate in the Jesi zone, ‘is the terrains. Jesi is very rich in clay and skeletal deposits, while Matelica is richer in minerals. Also Jesi is more open to the sea, while Matelica is an inland territory, where the influence of the mountains can be felt.’
Tom’s top Verdicchio wines from Marche:
Colonnara, Ubaldo Rosi, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2008
87
Verdicchio’s natural acidity makes for a well-structured sparkler; this limited-prodution cuvée offers more richness than most. Arguably the area’s finest.
2008
ColonnaraVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Bucci, Villa Bucci Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2009
94
Easily the most famous and arguably the finest Verdicchio producer, Ampelio Bucci is a great ambassador for the area. Despite its age, this is the current release. The riserva offerings display length on the palate with structure and persistence; the 2009 is even richer than usual.
2009
BucciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Colonnara, Cuprese, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 1991
94
Golden yellow; aromas of honey, banana, orange blossom and geranium. Outstanding length and complexity, vibrant acidity; amazing shape at 24 years.
1991
ColonnaraVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Bucci, Villa Bucci Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2004
94
Expressive aromas of almond pastry and orange peel; excellent depth of fruit. Good acidity, outstanding persistence. A pleasing note of creaminess to finish.
2004
BucciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Andrea Felici, Il Cantico della Figura, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2011
93
Leo Felici is a Verdicchio perfectionist and it shows. Cement fermented and aged, this has outstanding varietal purity, lively acidity and exceptional length.
2011
Andrea FeliciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Garofoli, La Selezione Gioacchino Garofoli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2008
92
From a great family estate, this riserva is made from late harvest grapes. Layers of fruit, beautifully structured – very sexy!
2008
GarofoliVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Sartarelli, Balciana, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2012
92
Made from late harvested grapes from a single site. Delicate hints of tropical fruit in a very subtle style. Great balance and finesse.
2012
SartarelliVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Umani Ronchi, Plenio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2009
92
One of Jesi’s most visible and consistent producers, this is an underrated gem, with spiced apple and dried pear flavours, subtle wood notes, lively acidity and distinct minerality.
2009
Umani RonchiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Collestefano, Verdicchio di Matelica, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2013
91
Fabio Marchionni farms his vineyards organically. This has become something of a cult wine. Golden apple and cinnamon aromas lead onto notes of mango on the palate.
2013
CollestefanoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Stefano Antonucci, Le Vaglie, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2013
91
Antonucci is one of the area’s most inimitable characters; his wines are flawless, with great intensity. This wine, from the top 2013 vintage, is particularly so.
2013
Stefano AntonucciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Bisci, Verdicchio di Matelica, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2013
90
Matelica’s best-known producer; gorgeous aromas of dogwood, spearmint and green apple. The wine glides across the palate – ultra clean and delicious.
2013
BisciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Colonnara, Cuprese, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2013
88
Made by the best cooperative for Verdicchio, this is a beautifully structured wine that can be appreciated after six months or years; great value.
2013
ColonnaraVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
La Staffa, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Marche, Le Marche, Italy, 2013
90
Impressive varietal focus, but this wine shies away from simple fruit, offering flavours of mint and herbal tea with distinct minerality.
2013
La StaffaVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
