Natural wine
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In a comprehensive and landmark tasting, Decanter’s expert panel blind tasted 122 natural wines from all corners of the globe. Here they each name their 10 favourites...

Natural wine is here to stay as a small but significant niche; the logical development of a back-to-the-roots movement that began with organic agriculture’s popularisation in the 1970s. It’s a term of convenience; two simple words to describe a complex, sprawling ideology that includes organic and biodynamic viticulture, minimal intervention in the winery, and sometimes radical views on sulphur dioxide.

Read our natural wine definition here. 


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Simon Woolf: “I was delighted at the overall high quality of winemaking evident, and the lack of obvious faults. While I’m a strong proponent of minimal intervention, organics and biodynamics, I’m no lover of excess brettanomyces, volatile acidity or unintended oxidation. Only two of 122 wines tasted had a hint of mousiness.”

Andrew Jefford: “It’s impossible to ignore the extent to which this line of experimental enquiry is stimulating and intriguing even ‘conventional’ producers, so I’m convinced we will see more wine made in this way in future; I’m also convinced that the success rate of natural wines will steadily improve.”

Sarah Jane Evans MW: “Given the often heated, divisive debate around these wines, I was pleased to find plenty to recommend, scoring 32 wines 90 points or more. My top wines were full of energy and freshness. I was hoping to assess the effects of the containers used for winemaking, however there were not enough concrete egg or amphora examples to draw conclusions.”



Top rated natural wine:


La Stoppa, Ageno, Emilia, Emilia Romagna, Italy, 2011

My wines

94

Who would have thought that a defiantly tannic orange wine made with 30 days of maceration would triumph in this tasting? Yet triumph it did, proving that Malvasia di Candia Aromatica (the dominant variety here) takes to skin contact like bees to a honeypot. La Stoppa’s 50 hectare organic estate in Emilia-Romagna has been established for more than a century, with the enigmatic Elena Pantaleoni its grande dame for the past 23 years. She prefers the term ‘artisanal’ to the more nebulous ‘natural’ for her wines. A full bodied, spicy and honeyed wine with haunting aromas of rose, musk, chamomile and thyme. Full of deep, pure, head-turning flavours, modulating from rose-water charm through clean apple-orchard fruit, oranges and rhubarb. Notes of cinnamon and ginger come through on the memorable finish. Somehow more than the sum of its parts.

2011

Emilia RomagnaItaly

La StoppaEmilia

Gratavinum, Silvestris, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2015

My wines

94

A nose of billowing primary fruit: rich plums with a floral back note, as if you can smell the blossom which brought the plums into being. The palate has intense, dramatic fruits with the fresh primal intensity the nose sketched out. The acidity is high and thrusting with grippy tannins to finish.

2015

CataloniaSpain

GratavinumPriorat

Occhipinti, Siccagno, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2013

My wines

94

There is real fine fruited complexity here: fragrant cherry, plum and cranberry, with a furniture polish note too, which is very Italian. Concentrated and poised on the palate. This does have that 20/20 focus which natural wines are so often said to, with barely any tannin or extractive force.

2013

SicilyItaly

OcchipintiTerre Siciliane

Waterkloof, Circumstance Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016

My wines

93

A green-silver in colour, this is graceful, fresh, poised and restrained. It is elegant with lots of grain, understated creaminess and light summer-fruit flesh. Real finesse and exemplary balance here too. An outstanding Chardonnay which seems a world apart from the 'natural wine' caricature.

2016

StellenboschSouth Africa

Waterkloof

Château Combel-la-Serre, Les Peyres Levades, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2014

My wines

93

A pure charmer from Cahors: lifted, fresh cherry-damson scents with an almost creamy amplitude to the fruit. Weighty and full in the mouth, this is very primary fruit forward and absolutely jumping with juiciness. Just a faint touch of grassiness, but for many that would add to the freshness.

2014

CahorsFrance

Château Combel-la-Serre

Alfredo Arribas, 4 Gotes, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2015

My wines

93

Clean and fresh on the nose, but relatively unfocussed, though there is a sense of earthy, liquorice refinement. More in the offing than in the glass right now, however the palate is bright, acidic, stony and spicy; a tumbling mountain stream of purity and freshness, which is pretty good going for Priorat.

2015

CataloniaSpain

Alfredo ArribasPriorat

Pierre Morin, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2013

My wines

93

There are excellent aromas here: a lovely surge of refined cherry making it graceful, pure and enchanting. Smooth, lively and curranty on the palate, with some tannin support for table use, and very true to its origins; that northerly freshness is very Sancerre. Really outstanding work here.

2013

LoireFrance

Pierre MorinSancerre

Frank Cornelissen, Munjebel VA, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2014

My wines

93

Soft, raisiny fruits with a little musky grace and orange peel charm to them. The palate displays citrus peels and orange grove blossoms. I love the combination of tannins and perfumes, and there is just enough limpid, translucent cherry-plum fruit to fill in the middle palate. The only hesitation being the almost fizzy style of the wine's acidity, but I will put a short drinking window here and hope all will be well.

2014

SicilyItaly

Frank CornelissenTerre Siciliane

Domaine Sainte-Croix, Carignan, Vin de France, Bordeaux, France, 2013

My wines

92

Slightly dry, cardboard aromas clear to something more sherbet-like. It is an intense, dramatic, acidic and attractive wine on the palate with purity and drama. The best perfumes, strangely enough, come after one swallows/spits: bright elderberry and wild plum. An impressive wine once it's had some air.

2013

Vin de FranceFrance

Domaine Sainte-Croix

Intellego, The Story of Harry, Swartland, South Africa, 2016

My wines

92

This has plenty of sweet intrigue. Lemon chiffon and crème anglaise - once again, a long way from the 'natural wine' cliché. On the palate, this is poised, fresh, graceful and diverting, with great harmony but impressive subtlety, too; long, carefully interfolded secondary flavours leading to a tender, graceful finish. Fine work here. No sense of under-ripeness either, despite the low alcohol from a hot growing location, so very well managed in the vineyard too.

2016

SwartlandSouth Africa

Intellego

Mas del Périé, Amphore, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2014

My wines

92

Sterling aromas with a lovely floral lift to the red fruits here. Lots of fragrant charm and purity. Vivid, fresh, lively, clean lines to this wine; fine definition to the cherry-plum fruit, with some crushed kernel bitterness behind. Super wine.

2014

CahorsFrance

Mas del Périé

Valdonica, Ballarino, Maremma Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Characterful dried apricot, hay and dried herbs combine with a wonderful waxiness that adds interest. An assertive but beautifully balanced wine, nicely developed and pure...

2012

TuscanyItaly

ValdonicaMaremma Toscana

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Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles, Cuvée Spéciale, Bandol, Provence, France, 2011

My wines

96

Subtle aromas of meat and red fruit at first, leading to fresh and lively notes of cream and vanilla. This has delicacy, complexity and it is really quite thrilling. Still super youthful.

2011

ProvenceFrance

Domaine Lafran-VeyrollesBandol

Meinklang, Graupert, Austria, Austria, 2015

My wines

96

Succulent, perfumed red fruits with a tantalising melange of raspberry and spiced rhubarb. It has a luxuriant texture and is beautifully restrained with a long, fine finish.

2015

AustriaAustria

Meinklang

Sepp & Maria Muster, Gräfin, Steirerland, Austria, 2013

My wines

95

A light framed Sauvignon with a wonderful nuttiness and structure, herby aromatics and a very elegant body, if finishing slightly short.

2013

SteirerlandAustria

Sepp & Maria Muster

Vodopivec, Vitovska, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2010

My wines

95

Understated aromatics of jasmine and exotic fruits intermingle with baked apple and plum skin. It has fine tannins and an engaging citrus undertone. Very well integrated and complete, a lot of refinement here.

2010

Friuli Venezia GiuliaItaly

Vodopivec

Foradori, Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2015

My wines

95

This is showing candied pears and jasmine flowers in a youthful, stylish way. It is light framed, but with persistence and texture. A very feminine style in the best possible sense.

2015

Trentino-Alto AdigeItaly

ForadoriVigneti delle Dolomiti

Domaine des Cognettes, Sélection Sur Lie, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2015

My wines

94

Ripe and lively, this Muscadet is showing delicious pear slices and green melon with a complimentary leesy note that rounds out the texture and gives it a refined finish.

2015

LoireFrance

Domaine des CognettesMuscadet

Batič, Angel, Vipava Valley, Kakovostno, Primorska, Slovenia, 2011

My wines

94

A wine full of ripe, buttery, baked apple, ginger and caramel. There is not a whole lot of fruit but the texture is full, creamy and certainly hedonistic.

2011

PrimorskaSlovenia

BatičVipava Valley

Guerila, Pinela, Vipava Valley, Primorska, Slovenia, 2015

My wines

93

Perfumed wild strawberry exudes from the nose, with subtle notes of earth and spice. It has quite low acidity but this is charming and rather fun.

2015

PrimorskaSlovenia

GuerilaVipava Valley

Batič, Zaria, Vipava Valley, Primorska, Slovenia, 2009

My wines

93

This has a burnished apricot colour in the glass and is wafting smoky aromatics. It is a really interesting wine in an oxidative style full of roasted almonds, burnt caramel, golden peach, plus thyme and fennel.

2009

PrimorskaSlovenia

BatičVipava Valley

Le Due Terre, Sacrisassi, Friuli, Colli Orientali, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2014

My wines

92

This is brightly Italian in its acidity and dark fruit and finally gives an edge of bitterness. A rich warm palate, dense and with a savoury edge to it. It is lingering fleshy and memorable.

2014

Friuli Venezia GiuliaItaly

Le Due TerreFriuli

Reyneke, Organic Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015

My wines

92

A rich dense Syrah with white pepper and lemon juice. Charcoal and mocha undertones come through on a long impressive finish.

2015

StellenboschSouth Africa

Reyneke

Terroir al Límit, Terra de Cuques, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2014

My wines

92

A deep golden in colour with jasmine and roses on the nose. A full bodied wine that is fleshy and lively with a lift of acidity and a spicy tone. Mineral, with a strong stony finish.

2014

CataloniaSpain

Terroir al LímitPriorat

Asensio Carcelén, 100x100 Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain, 2014

My wines

92

This has glorious mulberry aromas singing of hot Jumilla vineyards. It is supple, fleshy and powerfully fruity, with a line of tannin and acid to refresh. Rustic and rogue.

2014

JumillaSpain

Asensio Carcelén

Cotar, Malvazija, Karst, Primorska, Slovenia, 2014

My wines

92

A brilliantly vivid attack starts us off, with darts of Seville orange. This really is a wine on steroids and shows what Malvasia can do.

2014

PrimorskaSlovenia

CotarKarst

Domaine de L'R, Le Canal des Grands Pièces, Chinon, Loire, France, 2015

My wines

92

There's a tart edge to this, like sour cherries or cranberries. Generally supple in the mouth with a light rasp of tannin. Not entirely integrated yet, but has a fine structure. In the end, memorably long.

2015

LoireFrance

Domaine de L'RChinon

Calabretta, Capuccio, Sicily, Italy, 2010

My wines

92

Gloriously aromatic, with red cherries and violets. It is positively bursting with cherry fruit and is super expressive, helped by a fine grip of tannin and a long crisp finish. Still a teenager even at 2010.

2010

SicilyItaly

Calabretta

Quartz Reef, Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2015

My wines

91

Intensely aromatic! Roses, violet, raspberries spring to mind. It is full bodied and generously fruity whilst also being light and lively. Not the most complex but very likeable.

2015

Central OtagoNew Zealand

Quartz Reef

Andreas Gsellmann, Exempel Chardonnay, Weinland, Austria, 2015

My wines

91

Very fragrant for Chardonnay, this wine is flooded with citrus, lime and marmalade and ends on a savoury, salty complex finish.

2015

WeinlandAustria

Andreas Gsellmann

Simon Woolf
Decanter Premium, Decanter Magazine and DWWA 2019 Judge

Simon Woolf is a British journalist and writer currently clinging to mainland Europe in Amsterdam. A regular contributor to Decanter magazine, Meininger Wine Business International and World of Fine Wine, Woolf is a critical advocate for organics, biodynamics and natural winemaking, and specialises in the wines of Italy, Austria and Eastern Europe.

He is the founder and editor of The Morning Claret, one of the world’s most respected resources for natural wines.

His first book ‘Amber Revolution’ was published in 2018 to critical acclaim in the New York Times and on JancisRobinson.com.

He was the Roederer International Wine Writer Awards Feature Writer of the Year 2018 and he was a judge at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).