Top rated natural wine – panel tasting results
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In a comprehensive and landmark tasting, Decanter’s expert panel blind tasted 122 natural wines from all corners of the globe. Here they each name their 10 favourites...
Natural wine is here to stay as a small but significant niche; the logical development of a back-to-the-roots movement that began with organic agriculture’s popularisation in the 1970s. It’s a term of convenience; two simple words to describe a complex, sprawling ideology that includes organic and biodynamic viticulture, minimal intervention in the winery, and sometimes radical views on sulphur dioxide.
Read our natural wine definition here.
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Simon Woolf: “I was delighted at the overall high quality of winemaking evident, and the lack of obvious faults. While I’m a strong proponent of minimal intervention, organics and biodynamics, I’m no lover of excess brettanomyces, volatile acidity or unintended oxidation. Only two of 122 wines tasted had a hint of mousiness.”
Andrew Jefford: “It’s impossible to ignore the extent to which this line of experimental enquiry is stimulating and intriguing even ‘conventional’ producers, so I’m convinced we will see more wine made in this way in future; I’m also convinced that the success rate of natural wines will steadily improve.”
Sarah Jane Evans MW: “Given the often heated, divisive debate around these wines, I was pleased to find plenty to recommend, scoring 32 wines 90 points or more. My top wines were full of energy and freshness. I was hoping to assess the effects of the containers used for winemaking, however there were not enough concrete egg or amphora examples to draw conclusions.”
Concrete eggs in the winery – ask Decanter
Where brett in wine comes from – ask Decanter
Organic vs biodynamic – ask Decanter
Top rated natural wine:
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La Stoppa, Ageno, Emilia, Emilia Romagna, Italy, 2011

94
Who would have thought that a defiantly tannic orange wine made with 30 days of maceration would triumph in this tasting? Yet triumph it did, proving that Malvasia di Candia Aromatica (the dominant variety here) takes to skin contact like bees to a honeypot. La Stoppa’s 50 hectare organic estate in Emilia-Romagna has been established for more than a century, with the enigmatic Elena Pantaleoni its grande dame for the past 23 years. She prefers the term ‘artisanal’ to the more nebulous ‘natural’ for her wines. A full bodied, spicy and honeyed wine with haunting aromas of rose, musk, chamomile and thyme. Full of deep, pure, head-turning flavours, modulating from rose-water charm through clean apple-orchard fruit, oranges and rhubarb. Notes of cinnamon and ginger come through on the memorable finish. Somehow more than the sum of its parts.
2011
Emilia RomagnaItaly
La StoppaEmilia
Gratavinum, Silvestris, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2015

94
A nose of billowing primary fruit: rich plums with a floral back note, as if you can smell the blossom which brought the plums into being. The palate has intense, dramatic fruits with the fresh primal intensity the nose sketched out. The acidity is high and thrusting with grippy tannins to finish.
2015
CataloniaSpain
GratavinumPriorat
Occhipinti, Siccagno, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2013

94
There is real fine fruited complexity here: fragrant cherry, plum and cranberry, with a furniture polish note too, which is very Italian. Concentrated and poised on the palate. This does have that 20/20 focus which natural wines are so often said to, with barely any tannin or extractive force.
2013
SicilyItaly
OcchipintiTerre Siciliane
Waterkloof, Circumstance Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016

93
A green-silver in colour, this is graceful, fresh, poised and restrained. It is elegant with lots of grain, understated creaminess and light summer-fruit flesh. Real finesse and exemplary balance here too. An outstanding Chardonnay which seems a world apart from the 'natural wine' caricature.
2016
StellenboschSouth Africa
Waterkloof
Château Combel-la-Serre, Les Peyres Levades, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2014

93
A pure charmer from Cahors: lifted, fresh cherry-damson scents with an almost creamy amplitude to the fruit. Weighty and full in the mouth, this is very primary fruit forward and absolutely jumping with juiciness. Just a faint touch of grassiness, but for many that would add to the freshness.
2014
CahorsFrance
Château Combel-la-Serre
Alfredo Arribas, 4 Gotes, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2015

93
Clean and fresh on the nose, but relatively unfocussed, though there is a sense of earthy, liquorice refinement. More in the offing than in the glass right now, however the palate is bright, acidic, stony and spicy; a tumbling mountain stream of purity and freshness, which is pretty good going for Priorat.
2015
CataloniaSpain
Alfredo ArribasPriorat
Pierre Morin, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2013

93
There are excellent aromas here: a lovely surge of refined cherry making it graceful, pure and enchanting. Smooth, lively and curranty on the palate, with some tannin support for table use, and very true to its origins; that northerly freshness is very Sancerre. Really outstanding work here.
2013
LoireFrance
Pierre MorinSancerre
Frank Cornelissen, Munjebel VA, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2014

93
Soft, raisiny fruits with a little musky grace and orange peel charm to them. The palate displays citrus peels and orange grove blossoms. I love the combination of tannins and perfumes, and there is just enough limpid, translucent cherry-plum fruit to fill in the middle palate. The only hesitation being the almost fizzy style of the wine's acidity, but I will put a short drinking window here and hope all will be well.
2014
SicilyItaly
Frank CornelissenTerre Siciliane
Domaine Sainte-Croix, Carignan, Vin de France, Bordeaux, France, 2013

92
Slightly dry, cardboard aromas clear to something more sherbet-like. It is an intense, dramatic, acidic and attractive wine on the palate with purity and drama. The best perfumes, strangely enough, come after one swallows/spits: bright elderberry and wild plum. An impressive wine once it's had some air.
2013
Vin de FranceFrance
Domaine Sainte-Croix
Intellego, The Story of Harry, Swartland, South Africa, 2016

92
This has plenty of sweet intrigue. Lemon chiffon and crème anglaise - once again, a long way from the 'natural wine' cliché. On the palate, this is poised, fresh, graceful and diverting, with great harmony but impressive subtlety, too; long, carefully interfolded secondary flavours leading to a tender, graceful finish. Fine work here. No sense of under-ripeness either, despite the low alcohol from a hot growing location, so very well managed in the vineyard too.
2016
SwartlandSouth Africa
Intellego
Mas del Périé, Amphore, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2014

92
Sterling aromas with a lovely floral lift to the red fruits here. Lots of fragrant charm and purity. Vivid, fresh, lively, clean lines to this wine; fine definition to the cherry-plum fruit, with some crushed kernel bitterness behind. Super wine.
2014
CahorsFrance
Mas del Périé
Valdonica, Ballarino, Maremma Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2012

Characterful dried apricot, hay and dried herbs combine with a wonderful waxiness that adds interest. An assertive but beautifully balanced wine, nicely developed and pure...
2012
TuscanyItaly
ValdonicaMaremma Toscana
Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles, Cuvée Spéciale, Bandol, Provence, France, 2011

96
Subtle aromas of meat and red fruit at first, leading to fresh and lively notes of cream and vanilla. This has delicacy, complexity and it is really quite thrilling. Still super youthful.
2011
ProvenceFrance
Domaine Lafran-VeyrollesBandol
Meinklang, Graupert, Austria, Austria, 2015

96
Succulent, perfumed red fruits with a tantalising melange of raspberry and spiced rhubarb. It has a luxuriant texture and is beautifully restrained with a long, fine finish.
2015
AustriaAustria
Meinklang
Sepp & Maria Muster, Gräfin, Steirerland, Austria, 2013

95
A light framed Sauvignon with a wonderful nuttiness and structure, herby aromatics and a very elegant body, if finishing slightly short.
2013
SteirerlandAustria
Sepp & Maria Muster
Vodopivec, Vitovska, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2010

95
Understated aromatics of jasmine and exotic fruits intermingle with baked apple and plum skin. It has fine tannins and an engaging citrus undertone. Very well integrated and complete, a lot of refinement here.
2010
Friuli Venezia GiuliaItaly
Vodopivec
Foradori, Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2015

95
This is showing candied pears and jasmine flowers in a youthful, stylish way. It is light framed, but with persistence and texture. A very feminine style in the best possible sense.
2015
Trentino-Alto AdigeItaly
ForadoriVigneti delle Dolomiti
Domaine des Cognettes, Sélection Sur Lie, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2015

94
Ripe and lively, this Muscadet is showing delicious pear slices and green melon with a complimentary leesy note that rounds out the texture and gives it a refined finish.
2015
LoireFrance
Domaine des CognettesMuscadet
Batič, Angel, Vipava Valley, Kakovostno, Primorska, Slovenia, 2011

94
A wine full of ripe, buttery, baked apple, ginger and caramel. There is not a whole lot of fruit but the texture is full, creamy and certainly hedonistic.
2011
PrimorskaSlovenia
BatičVipava Valley
Guerila, Pinela, Vipava Valley, Primorska, Slovenia, 2015

93
Perfumed wild strawberry exudes from the nose, with subtle notes of earth and spice. It has quite low acidity but this is charming and rather fun.
2015
PrimorskaSlovenia
GuerilaVipava Valley
Batič, Zaria, Vipava Valley, Primorska, Slovenia, 2009

93
This has a burnished apricot colour in the glass and is wafting smoky aromatics. It is a really interesting wine in an oxidative style full of roasted almonds, burnt caramel, golden peach, plus thyme and fennel.
2009
PrimorskaSlovenia
BatičVipava Valley
Le Due Terre, Sacrisassi, Friuli, Colli Orientali, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2014

92
This is brightly Italian in its acidity and dark fruit and finally gives an edge of bitterness. A rich warm palate, dense and with a savoury edge to it. It is lingering fleshy and memorable.
2014
Friuli Venezia GiuliaItaly
Le Due TerreFriuli
Reyneke, Organic Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015

92
A rich dense Syrah with white pepper and lemon juice. Charcoal and mocha undertones come through on a long impressive finish.
2015
StellenboschSouth Africa
Reyneke
Terroir al Límit, Terra de Cuques, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2014

92
A deep golden in colour with jasmine and roses on the nose. A full bodied wine that is fleshy and lively with a lift of acidity and a spicy tone. Mineral, with a strong stony finish.
2014
CataloniaSpain
Terroir al LímitPriorat
Asensio Carcelén, 100x100 Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain, 2014

92
This has glorious mulberry aromas singing of hot Jumilla vineyards. It is supple, fleshy and powerfully fruity, with a line of tannin and acid to refresh. Rustic and rogue.
2014
JumillaSpain
Asensio Carcelén
Cotar, Malvazija, Karst, Primorska, Slovenia, 2014

92
A brilliantly vivid attack starts us off, with darts of Seville orange. This really is a wine on steroids and shows what Malvasia can do.
2014
PrimorskaSlovenia
CotarKarst
Domaine de L'R, Le Canal des Grands Pièces, Chinon, Loire, France, 2015

92
There's a tart edge to this, like sour cherries or cranberries. Generally supple in the mouth with a light rasp of tannin. Not entirely integrated yet, but has a fine structure. In the end, memorably long.
2015
LoireFrance
Domaine de L'RChinon
Calabretta, Capuccio, Sicily, Italy, 2010

92
Gloriously aromatic, with red cherries and violets. It is positively bursting with cherry fruit and is super expressive, helped by a fine grip of tannin and a long crisp finish. Still a teenager even at 2010.
2010
SicilyItaly
Calabretta
Quartz Reef, Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2015

91
Intensely aromatic! Roses, violet, raspberries spring to mind. It is full bodied and generously fruity whilst also being light and lively. Not the most complex but very likeable.
2015
Central OtagoNew Zealand
Quartz Reef
Andreas Gsellmann, Exempel Chardonnay, Weinland, Austria, 2015

91
Very fragrant for Chardonnay, this wine is flooded with citrus, lime and marmalade and ends on a savoury, salty complex finish.
2015
WeinlandAustria
Andreas Gsellmann

Simon Woolf is a British journalist and writer currently clinging to mainland Europe in Amsterdam. A regular contributor to Decanter magazine, Meininger Wine Business International and World of Fine Wine, Woolf is a critical advocate for organics, biodynamics and natural winemaking, and specialises in the wines of Italy, Austria and Eastern Europe.
He is the founder and editor of The Morning Claret, one of the world’s most respected resources for natural wines.
His first book ‘Amber Revolution’ was published in 2018 to critical acclaim in the New York Times and on JancisRobinson.com.
He was the Roederer International Wine Writer Awards Feature Writer of the Year 2018 and he was a judge at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).