Making a comeback: Great-value Chardonnay worth your attention this Christmas

The vines at Waitrose’s very own vineyard at Leckford Estate in Hampshire are maturing nicely, and so has the Chardonnay in this classy blanc de blancs, which is based on the 2015 vintage and now offers a deeply satisfying mix of tingly, nervy, green apple acidity and almond croissant richness.

Another of Aldi’s long-running favourites, this stylish 100% Chardonnay fizz is rich in buttery biscuit flavours and fresh-cut apple fruit, with a creamy mousse carried by tangy acidity into a long, savoury dry finish.

One of the best of the UK’s many supermarket Chablis, this has an extra degree of luminous concentration and fluency when set alongside its peers, the result, perhaps, of sourcing fruit from those titular old vines, which bring a touch of tropical richness that contrasts nicely with the clean racy acidity.

If you're new to Polish wine, 1) join the club; 2) this concrete egg-fermented Chardonnay may surprise you. The pick of a trio of wines from Kamil Barczentewicz at the tasting, it’s a graceful, rounded style, with golden apple and a touch of lemon pithiness on the bright finish.

With a drizzle of honey and apple pie patisserie, this barrel-aged Côte Chalonnaise Chardonnay is full of warm-season ripeness and charm while retaining a graceful streak of cleansing acidity – a smart, richly layered contender for roast chicken.

A standout wine for those who like their Chardonnays rich and full-bodied, this is pure class. It glints gold in the glass, and it's quite punchy alcohol wise at just over 14%. But it's a masterclass in winemaking, bold and expressive, but totally in harmony, the alcohol and oak well integrated. The wine wine was fermented and then aged on the lees for 12 months in large French oak barrels (puncheons), 70% of which were old. The first thing that strikes you is the toasty, smoky richness and struck match character, a framework that supports a depth of warm lemon curd, melon and nectarine. Power, concentration and structure - it's all here, with a seam of refreshing acidity giving focus and freshness.

The 2022 vintage was warm and sunny in Chablis, but this own-label Premier Cru continues to impress with its balance between warm, buttery creaminess and lively lemon and lime flavours, the fruit harvested early to preserve balance. It's £8 a bottle more expensive than the regular (non premier cru) Chablis, but it's worth the extra spend, with added complexity from partial oak ageing. Soft and spicy with good acidity, and a good depth of fruit.

A swish, stylish white entry-point to this celebrated Margaret River producer’s extensive range, this wild-yeast and barrel-fermented Chardonnay combines the plump sunny fruitiness of nectarines and honeydew melons with nutty savouriness and a cleansing wash of sea-breezy fresh acidity. In-store only.

The sunny 2023 vintage led to some particularly accessible, fruit-driven wines in Chablis, and Aldi’s premier cru example is typical of the year, with a ripe, almost stone-fruited character, crème fraiche richness and enough citrussy acidity to keep it fish-friendly and fresh.

Crafted by fifth-generation winemaker and négociant Laurent Delaunay, the 'Les Grappillages' Chablis opens with aromas of yuzu, fragrant herbs and lemongrass. The palate is savoury and oily, with notes of yellow apple, citrus zest and white spices. Bright with 5.2g/L acidity, it finishes with a peppery kick.

One of a pair of well-chosen new Aussie Chardonnays on the Sainsbury’s books, this blend of fruit from the Clare Valley and the Limestone Coast is fermented in a mix of stainless steel and oak for an engaging ripe style with a touch of oatmeal joining the bright golden apple and peach. In-store only.

There’s a touch of Toblerone-ish honeyed almond to this unoaked Chardonnay that contrasts nicely with the easy-going soft Discovery apple fruitiness and discreetly insistent acidity in a characterful white Burgundy with the structure to pair off with pork as well as rich fish.

Another M&S wine with the retailer's 'dropped and locked' price, meaning it’s a little cheaper than when it first appeared in store. Made by the ever-reliable La Chablisienne co-operative, it’s as pristine, taut, and tingling with lemony acidity as you’d want for fish and seafood.

With its genteel but immaculately presented fresh ripe apple, white nectarine and ripple of fresh acidity, this new addition to the Aldi range comes over as a kind of South African answer to Mâcon-Villages. Bright, food-flexible, easy – but not facile – drinking.

If you’re looking for a good-value white Burgundy alternative, this smart example from the ever-reliable Stellenrust winery is definitely a candidate. Partly fermented in French oak for an oatmealy-savoury, richly engaging palate filled with peach, subtle toasty notes and a super-clean dry finish.