Waiting patiently for your Burgundies from the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits to reach their fully mature exquisiteness? The five wine-producing communes of the Côte Chalonnaise a little further south provide some excellent options for earlier drinking, advises Clive Coates MW
Montagny
Travelling from the south upwards, we come first to Montagny. This is a Chardonnay-only appellation, the Pinot Noir being merely Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise.
Historically any Montagny with an alcohol of 11.5% or more could call itself premier cru, but this was changed in 2004. Yet most of the vineyards are still entitled to this superior level: 202 hectares of a total 306ha. There are 21 climats classified as premiers crus. Two-thirds of the production comes from the local co-op in Buxy. Once in the maw of the co-op, it is difficult and costly to extract oneself. Only at death or retirement does this become possible. Yet some have done so, including some of the more enterprising individual estates.
Best growers: Stéphane Aladame; Laurent Cognard; Françoise Feuillat-Juillot
Domaine Françoise Feuillat-Juillot, Les Coères 1er Cru 2013
18/20 (93/100)
Rich, full, poised, pure and profound. This is excellent.
Price: £17.90 Thorman Hunt, Vin Cognito
Drink 2016-2020
Alc 13%
Domaine Stéphane Aladame, Sélection de Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru 2013
17 (90)
Lovely ripe nose showing understated oak. Plenty of depth and style. Delicious.
Price: £16.58-£18.50 Goedhuis & Co, Liberty Wines, Montrachet, OW Loeb
Drink 2016-2020
Alc 13%
