Cru bourgeois conundrum
Bordeaux’s reds beyond the 1855 classification can offer fantastic value. But ranking them has caused controversy and discontent. A frustrated Clive Coates MW tracks the chequered history of the region’s crus bourgeois
Coates’ most consistent cru bourgeois performers
Château d’Escurac (cru bourgeois)
Jean-Marc Landureau’s wine comes from Civrac in the Bas-Médoc and is matured in a deconsecrated 11th-century chapel. I’m convinced this helps the wine attain the calm and balance it so often has.
Château Potensac
This estate is owned by Léoville-Las Cases. It’s a firm, long-lasting wine from the Bas-Médoc, and by far the best wine from this appellation.
Château Sociando-Mallet
My prime candidate for upgrading. You can’t get any further north and still be in the Haut-Médoc. The vineyard lies on a splendidly exposed gravel plateau overlooking the Gironde estuary. A profound wine.
Château Phélan-Ségur
Consistently well-made wines from this deservedly popular St-Estèphe estate.
Château Haut-Marbuzet
Unexpectedly the percentage of Merlot here is high. This, plus a high proportion of new oak, produces an exotic wine. Play Scheherazade on the hi-fi while you drink it.
Château Lalande-Borie
From the Durcu-Beaucaillou stable, which means you can’t get much more reliable. It needs more time than most.
Château Moulin de la Rose
A small estate and rarely seen as a result, but a wine of real St-Julien elegance.
Château Caronne-Ste- Gemme (cru bourgeois)
The vineyard is prone to frost and lies on the south side of the ditch that divides Châteaux Lagrange and Gruaud-Larose in St-Julien from the commune of St-Laurent. Very stylish wine. And quite frankly absurdly cheap for the level of quality.
Château La Gurgue
Pronounced with two hard Gs, like gurgle. A delicious, proper Margaux with vineyards up on the plateau near those of the château itself, and made by the delightful Claire Villars.
Château Monbrison
Lying on the Cantenac side of Labarde, and with vineyards that march with Angludet and Giscours, Monbrison has for years served up a delicious wine with all the fragrance of its Margaux appellation.
