Serralunga Barolos: Mellowing with age
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Held in high esteem, Serralunga Barolos have at the same time earned a reputation as fierce and tannic beasts. Yet today's wines are more approachable than ever, finds Stephen Brook
Top Serralunga Barolos
Brovia, Ca’ mia 2010
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Raspberry coulis and mint nose. Succulent cherry fruit, very concentrated with massive but not tough tannins. A mighty wine with good acidity, considerable finesse and excellent length.
Price: £48 Justerini & Brooks, Raeburn
Drink 2015-2030
Alc 14%
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Massolino, Vigna Rionda Riserva 2008
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Elegant red fruits on the nose. A massive but not extracted wine, compact and powerful, with splendid fruit and immense concentration. Impeccably balanced and very long.
Price: £68-£96.99 Liberty Wines, WoodWinters
Drink 2015-2030
Alc 14%
Bruno Giacosa, Falletto 2008
18/20pts (93/100pts)
Reticent but stylish red fruits nose. Very concentrated, with firm tannins but no evident extraction, showing ample grip and good acidity. Long spicy finish.
Price: £130-£212.46 Armit Wines, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, Justerini & Brooks, Vini Italiani
Drink 2015-2028,
Alc 14.5%
Palladino, Parafada 2007
18/20pts (93/100pts)
Parafada always delivers elegant wines, and this has a perfumed red fruits and cranberry nose. Concentrated and fleshy, but with sweet fruit and persistent tannins. Good length.
Price: £41.99, The Winery
Drink 2014-2020
Alc 14.5%
Pio Cesare, Ornato 2008
18/20pts (93/100pts)
Spicy, stylish, red fruits nose. Svelte and concentrated, not too tannic, lively and well balanced, with integrated oak and fine length.
Price: £65-£75.25 Chelsea Vintners, Divine Fine Wines, Fine & Rare, Jeroboams
Drink 2014-2022
Alc 14%
Rivetto, Leon Riserva 2006
18/20pts (93/100pts)
Meaty nose with underlying raspberry fruit. Rich and velvety, with firm but integrated tannins and acidity, taut and spicy, elegant and persistent. Harmonious and long.
Price: £70 Ellis of Richmond
Drink 2015-2030
Alc 14.5%
Gaja, Sperss 2008
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Discreet raspberry aromas. Fresh and sleek, with restrained tannins and no rough edges. Good acidity gives the palate length and finesse.
Price: £134.46, Justerini & Brooks, WoodWinters
Drink 2014-2025
Alc 14.5%
Giovanni Rosso, La Serra 2010
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Dense tarry nose, with raspberry and sour cherry aromas. Full-bodied and concentrated, with firm ripe tannins. Solid but spicy, with good length.
Price: £47.40 Richard Dawes Fine Wines
Drink 2017-2027
Alc 14.5%
Vietti, Lazzarito 2010
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Rich, upfront, raspberry and cherry nose. Suave and rounded, this is a big, juicy style with ripe supporting tannins. Long, driven finish.
Price: £128.60 Bibendum
Drink 2016-2026
Alc 14.5%
Ettore Germano 2010
17/20pts (90/100pts)
Spicy, cherry-scented nose. Moderate intensity and body. Firm, ripe tannins and good acidity. Long.
Price: £27.50 Astrum Wine Cellars, Planet of the Grapes, WoodWinters
Drink 2015-2022
Alc 14.5%
Fontanafredda, Serralunga d’Alba 2009
17/20pts (90/100pts)
Bright, lively cherry nose. Supple, spicy and concentrated, showing unusual finesse. Firm tannins. Robust.
Price: £31-£42.99 Carruthers & Kent, Great Western Wine, Selfridges, Sura Wine, Winedirect
Drink 2015-2022
Alc 14%
Luigi Pira, Serralunga 2010
17/20pts (90/100pts)
Spicy, sour cherry and raspberry nose. Rich and full-bodied. Sleek texture, ripe tannins, fine balance. Long.
Price: £24-£31.20 Goedhuis, James Nicholson
Drink 2016-2025
Alc 14.5%
Paolo Manzone 2010
16.5/20pts (88/100pts)
Muted nose but fresh and concentrated on the palate, with lively acidity and surprising accessibility.
Price: £21.99 Adnams
Drink 2014-2022
Alc 14%
Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.