Get to know Central Otago Pinot Noir: Good, better, best
Have you ever wanted to know more about a great wine region but didn’t know where to start? Bob Campbell MW's picks Pinot Noirs from Central Otago, which show what makes this wine region great, in three bottles – good (affordable), better (medium-priced) and best (money no object)...
The world’s most southerly wine region, Central Otago covers a large area of diverse soils from broken schist and clays to heavy silt loams, gravels and light sands. Overlay that with a wide range of climatic conditionsand it is easy to understand why Central Otago produces such a diverse range of Pinot Noir styles.
The distinguishing features that make many Central Otago Pinot Noirs stand out from other regional styles are impressive fruit density and a silken texture. Some also boast a Central Otago signature of wild thyme – the herb was planted in the 1850s by gold miners and now covers the hills.
If you want to turn up the volume on fruit flavour, choose wines from the ‘three Bs’: Bannockburn, Bendigo and Cromwell Basin. If you prefer more vibrant and often edgier, high-energy wines, then try Pinot Noir from the cooler sub-regions of Wanaka, Gibbston or Alexandra.
Vintage makes a difference. 2017 saw a small harvest producing top wines. 2018 was the hottest vintage on record, producing many good wines. In contrast, 2019 was a wet vintage, with a good result. In 2020, expect ripe, concentrated wines with good acidities.
Price is a useful, though not infallible guide. More commercial, and cheaper, wines are likely to be a blend of vineyards, shipped in bulk to Europe and bottled. Handmade wines are often from a single organic vineyard, pruned and planted with quality in mind. You can taste the difference. The better, more expensive wines tend to be more ageworthy.
Good: Akarua, Rua Pinot Noir 2019 – 90 points
Better: Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir 2018 – 94 points
Best: Felton Road, Block 5 Pinot Noir 2017 – 100 points
Bob Campbell MW’s Central Otago Pinot Noir picks:
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Felton Road, Block 5 Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2017
100
Grown under an organic/biodynamic and non-interventionist regime, this wine perfectly captures the unique character of an extraordinary vineyard. It boasts great purity and power with layer upon layer of subtle flavours that include violets, red rose petal, dark cherry and mixed spices – a kaleidoscope of ever-changing characters most keenly displayed on the finish. It is delicate, fragrant and has enormous length. Wonderful now, I look forward to charting its progress with bottle age.
2017
Felton Road
Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2018
94
From a 24ha estate in the Pisa Range district of the Cromwell Basin. The vineyard has been managed using organic/biodynamic techniques since it was established in 2002 and was the first in Central Otago to embrace a biodynamic philosophy. This wine reflects the complexity I have come to expect from this site and vineyard management. It also reflects a unique vintage, unusually hot, producing a spicier and less opulent Pinot Noir than usual, with savoury/dried herb, raspberry, red cherry, violet and plum flavours supported by fine, drying tannins. Needs bottle age.
2018
Burn Cottage
Akarua, Rua Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2019
90
From Akarua’s vineyards in Bannockburn and nearby Cromwell Basin, it’s an honest expression of the locality, and reflects Akarua’s ‘fruit bomb’ house style both texturally (silken) and in flavour profile. Light, fresh, supple, appealing Pinot Noir with dark cherry, red-fleshed plum, raspberry and delicate spices. Deliciously accessible, charming, and offers great value.
2019
Akarua
